CV boot replacement on rear axles

[Jonathan]

Was under my car earlier today and noticed some of that grease goop spilled out of one of my CV boots. It's the inner one on the passenger side. It's torn slightly and needs to be replaced.

So... question... how much of the rear axle needs to come out or off to get this replaced?

I will buy the boot kit from DMCH that shows one boot, two clamps (or zip ties), six bolts, six lock washers and three lock plates. I will probably buy enough for all four boots even though only one is ripped. I had this done soon after getting the car in 2007, although a mechanic did this for me as it was when I still paid someone else to fix my hobby.

Has anyone put a how-to together with pics or a short video showing the boots getting replaced? I can see a few different videos online replacing the entire shaft and rebuilding the CV joints themselves, but if I don't need to take all this out, I'd rather not. Just not sure what awaits me if I take the six bolts out and those lock plates come off. Does that then let the shaft come down and out enough to get the old boot off and the new one on? Can you pull the shaft out from the joint and just as easily insert it back in when you're ready?

Just trying to better understand visually what is necessary to replace a single boot. Thanks.

[WHO1DMC]

Was under my car earlier today and noticed some of that grease goop spilled out of one of my CV boots. It's the inner one on the passenger side. It's torn slightly and needs to be replaced.

So... question... how much of the rear axle needs to come out or off to get this replaced?

I will buy the boot kit from DMCH that shows one boot, two clamps (or zip ties), six bolts, six lock washers and three lock plates. I will probably buy enough for all four boots even though only one is ripped. I had this done soon after getting the car in 2007, although a mechanic did this for me as it was when I still paid someone else to fix my hobby.

Has anyone put a how-to together with pics or a short video showing the boots getting replaced? I can see a few different videos online replacing the entire shaft and rebuilding the CV joints themselves, but if I don't need to take all this out, I'd rather not. Just not sure what awaits me if I take the six bolts out and those lock plates come off. Does that then let the shaft come down and out enough to get the old boot off and the new one on? Can you pull the shaft out from the joint and just as easily insert it back in when you're ready?

Just trying to better understand visually what is necessary to replace a single boot. Thanks.

Go to www.tn-dmc.com. Click on downloads there will be a pdf for a how-to on the axle.

The axle does need to be fully out from the car.


Dave B.

[DMCMW Dave]

Was under my car earlier today and noticed some of that grease goop spilled out of one of my CV boots. It's the inner one on the passenger side. It's torn slightly and needs to be replaced.

So... question... how much of the rear axle needs to come out or off to get this replaced?

Just trying to better understand visually what is necessary to replace a single boot. Thanks.

Take the axles off the car. One at a time is fine. No fluid will leak out anywhere. I had an article up online a long time ago but I can't find it at the moment.

I looked at the article on TN-dmc and it's way better than the one I wrote!

[iflights]

I followed the TN DMC removal guidance when I did both of my axles earlier this year. I cheated and had a vendor complete set of reburbs for the replacement operation. I felt if I had a split boot on my originals they should probably be cleaned and re-packed with grease and I didn't want to go through all that.

[WHO1DMC]

I rebuilt my axles a few years ago mainly to replace the old grease. The 40 year old grease is some nasty sticky stuff. In places where it doesn't have a chance of getting sturdup it was hard. I also put on new boots might as well there all apart and powder coated the shafts.



Dave B.

[Jonathan]

Thanks guys. I found the PDF. Great write-up and great collection of other downloads on that club site too. Nice!

And just to not be too much of a dumb dumb, but the first step that isn't mentioned about removing the axles from the car... am I to assume that if you do nothing other than remove the six bolts on each end, that the whole thing will just come out as one assembly? And that's the point where you can start with the write-up? I guess it's just not clear to me what is left on the side of the transmission when the axles are out. Anyone have a picture showing this?

[WHO1DMC]

Thanks guys. I found the PDF. Great write-up and great collection of other downloads on that club site too. Nice!

And just to not be too much of a dumb dumb, but the first step that isn't mentioned about removing the axles from the car... am I to assume that if you do nothing other than remove the six bolts on each end, that the whole thing will just come out as one assembly? And that's the point where you can start with the write-up? I guess it's just not clear to me what is left on the side of the transmission when the axles are out. Anyone have a picture showing this?

You need to just unbolt it and your good to go. The transaxle flange should remain on the transmission.
Another tip is being able to rotate the shaft so you don't struggle with getting to bolts. Putting the shafts back in is just use a couple bolts on each end and rotate the wheel so you can make sure there's no binding.

Dave B.

[David T]

You need to just unbolt it and your good to go. The transaxle flange should remain on the transmission.
Another tip is being able to rotate the shaft so you don't struggle with getting to bolts. Putting the shafts back in is just use a couple bolts on each end and rotate the wheel so you can make sure there's no binding.

Dave B.

Another tip is to not let the half-shafts "hang" or you bend the flange where the boot attaches.

[Jonathan]

You need to just unbolt it and your good to go. The transaxle flange should remain on the transmission.
Another tip is being able to rotate the shaft so you don't struggle with getting to bolts. Putting the shafts back in is just use a couple bolts on each end and rotate the wheel so you can make sure there's no binding.

Dave B.

Right on, thanks. And rotating the wheel means trans in neutral? Works the same on an auto as it does on a manual?

[AugustneverEnds]

It's the same on an auto.

The original hex bolts are easy to remove but take a while to tighten since there is only enough space to get an open-ended wrench on them. I replaced them with this, https://www.deloreango.com/us/upgraded-drive-shaft-bolts-kit.html

Depending on how much refurbishing you plan on doing this isn't a really hard job just messy. If you plan on taking the CV races totally apart it helps to have a pair of snap ring pliers and new snap rings (I lost 2 of them when they flew off the end of the shaft)

[JBaker4981]

Great write-up and great collection of other downloads on that club site too. Nice!


I looked at the article on TN-dmc and it's way better than the one I wrote!

Thanks guys! I take zero credit for any of the documents (asides my LED conversion PDF) on our website. It's simply part of my horde of documents that I have collected from here, DMC Today, and the DML for the last 20 years.

Distribution and a common place for DeLorean information was my goal and it sounds like it is being used :)

[MrChocky]

Thanks guys! I take zero credit for any of the documents (asides my LED conversion PDF) on our website. It's simply part of my horde of documents that I have collected from here, DMC Today, and the DML for the last 20 years.

Distribution and a common place for DeLorean information was my goal and it sounds like it is being used :)

He who has the horde, controls the gold? I dunno. But here's the guide I used:

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1288-How-To-Rebuild-the-CV-Joints

See the linked PDF. All the vendors sell kits of course.

[Jonathan]

I seem to have pretty much everything that I need now for the CV boot replacement job.

A question though about the clamps... the ones I have are the metal ones with the unique clamping portion that seem to need a special pair of pliers to pinch them together properly. Can these clamps be used correctly with just a regular pair of pliers?

Or can I use zip ties instead? And if I go with zip ties, do those zip ties need to be special ones with higher strength or temperature resilience?

Thanks.

[David T]

You should use the special tool but most mechanics will use whatever they have, usually a large pair of dykes (cutting pliers) being careful to squeeze the clamp and not cut it or the rubber boot. Avoid plastic zip ties, they do not tighten enough unless you use the metal ones.

[JBaker4981]

I seem to have pretty much everything that I need now for the CV boot replacement job.

A question though about the clamps... the ones I have are the metal ones with the unique clamping portion that seem to need a special pair of pliers to pinch them together properly. Can these clamps be used correctly with just a regular pair of pliers?

Or can I use zip ties instead? And if I go with zip ties, do those zip ties need to be special ones with higher strength or temperature resilience?

Thanks.

Don't let the metal clamps discourage you as there are multiple different types. Instead of buying another tool, I took my rebuilt axles to a good ole' boy mechanic shop and paid them $20 to crimp the clamps.

[Jonathan]

Don't let the metal clamps discourage you as there are multiple different types. Instead of buying another tool, I took my rebuilt axles to a good ole' boy mechanic shop and paid them $20 to crimp the clamps.

That's a good idea. It's going to go back into the car as a complete assembly so no harm in taking it somewhere for those clamps if need be.

So far so good on the removal. I think after this is done I may write-up a small prequel section to the guide that talks about how to get them out of your car.

I have the inside half loose and braced snug right where it is using some bungee cords and one bolt back in loose. I am going to wait until tomorrow to tackle the wheel side bolts as the same force used to get the inside bolts loose just doesn't seem to be enough. It's also not the same motion or using the same arm, so it doesn't feel comfortable and I'm not eager to bonk my elbow against the floor or my hand into a suspension component. I have an impact wrench I'll use to free them up.

It's going pretty well overall, but God do I ever struggle with people and neighbours and an audience. Not saying anyone is about to do something sinister, but after all these years with this car, it is hard to let your guard down and stop being so hypervigilant trying to spot the next guy that's going to do or say something idiotic. And not being able to let your guard down is pretty much equivalent to not being able to relax and life has become some kind of an exhausting existence because of that. Just need a chance to take a break somewhere that feels safe and comfortable.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You can probably buy the clamp pliers pretty cheap on Ebay.

[Jonathan]

Making progress. I have the passenger side axle out of the car and in a vice on the workbench. I cut the old clamps off and slid up the boot. I then popped the cover off the end, removed the snap ring (carefully with snap ring pliers) and then slid off the joint intact. Then slid off the old boot. I am cleaning things up, so far just with paper towel, but had a question on cleaning the joint up:

The How-To mentions cleaning it by either soaking the entire intact joint in a bucket of degreaser OR taking it part and cleaning each component one at a time and then reassembling it.

Is one of these methods preferred? It sure seems that if I did all this work to get things out of the car and apart, it would be silly to do it half-assed in some way and not clean it well and get all that old grease out. I had my boots and flanges + seals replaced in around 2011 and I can see now that the shop only added more new grease, but didn't take the joints all apart and clean them. So I have a mix of old and new grease in there.

I don't mind this work to be honest, mostly because I can do it on the workbench with the garage door closed and not under the car all uncomfortable with it hard to see what you're doing.

[MrChocky]

Making progress. I have the passenger side axle out of the car and in a vice on the workbench. I cut the old clamps off and slid up the boot. I then popped the cover off the end, removed the snap ring (carefully with snap ring pliers) and then slid off the joint intact. Then slid off the old boot. I am cleaning things up, so far just with paper towel, but had a question on cleaning the joint up:

The How-To mentions cleaning it by either soaking the entire intact joint in a bucket of degreaser OR taking it part and cleaning each component one at a time and then reassembling it.

Is one of these methods preferred? It sure seems that if I did all this work to get things out of the car and apart, it would be silly to do it half-assed in some way and not clean it well and get all that old grease out. I had my boots and flanges + seals replaced in around 2011 and I can see now that the shop only added more new grease, but didn't take the joints all apart and clean them. So I have a mix of old and new grease in there.

I don't mind this work to be honest, mostly because I can do it on the workbench with the garage door closed and not under the car all uncomfortable with it hard to see what you're doing.

Yeah, I've now cleaned most everything, and had the bearings out before I realized there was a choice, so I'm cleaning everything. I got one end reassembled, but it's a real puzzle to
get the bearings in, and I have to give up yesterday after trying a second one.

[David T]

If the joint is not contaminated by dirt or water you can just wipe out as much of the old grease as you can, repack and close it up with the new boot. If it is dirty the best thing to do is disassemble it and clean each part. Don't over-pack the joint with grease, it will just find it's way out and make a mess.

[Timeless]

D T are you ever going to stop? :boxface:

[Jonathan]

I got the slimy jigsaw puzzle back together lol.

Wondering if that inner portion is symmetrical too face versus bottom? Reason I’m asking is I just noticed the green dot and slightly different face on this side and it was installed with this side facing down. The other direction anyway.

Does this matter? I’d like to not have to repeat the puzzle again unless necessary. Can you see the difference in the sides I’m describing?. 6878968790

[WHO1DMC]

I got the slimy jigsaw puzzle back together lol.

Wondering if that inner portion is symmetrical too face versus bottom? Reason I’m asking is I just noticed the green dot and slightly different face on this side and it was installed with this side facing down. The other direction anyway.

Does this matter? I’d like to not have to repeat the puzzle again unless necessary. Can you see the difference in the sides I’m describing?. 6878968790

They're not symmetrical. They need to go together one way or they will bind. The green dot with the raised lip goes inboard the flat surface outboard. Looks like you left the boot flange on so that will help define witch way it goes.
This in relation to the axle not car.


Dave B.

[Jonathan]

They're not symmetrical. They need to go together one way or they will bind. The green dot with the raised lip goes inboard the flat surface outboard. Looks like you left the boot flange on so that will help define witch way it goes.
This in relation to the axle not car.


Dave B.

Thanks. I got it reversed and back together again. Puzzle skills improving lol.

So, for this boot I’m working on, it is the passenger side and the end of the axle connecting to the transmission not the wheel. On this one, that green dot side is facing the boot. When you say inboard and outboard, does that mean all green dots face the boot? Just trying to make sure I understand the terminology.

[WHO1DMC]

Thanks. I got it reversed and back together again. Puzzle skills improving lol.

So, for this boot I’m working on, it is the passenger side and the end of the axle connecting to the transmission not the wheel. On this one, that green dot side is facing the boot. When you say inboard and outboard, does that mean all green dots face the boot? Just trying to make sure I understand the terminology.

Yes
Green dot facing the boot.


Dave B.

[Jonathan]

And… check please! Done and done. Wait til tomorrow to get it down and go for a drive.
68792

[MrChocky]

They're not symmetrical. They need to go together one way or they will bind. The green dot with the raised lip goes inboard the flat surface outboard. Looks like you left the boot flange on so that will help define witch way it goes.
This in relation to the axle not car.


Dave B.

Hm. I've just redone mine, and I posted this on Facebook, but no one responded. On one of the joints, it's certainly binding a bit; I'm pretty sure I have the orientation correct, and I didn't see any green dots. I know
that the races have to be aligned think/thin as per the guide, and this particular joint took a long time to get the bearings in vs the other 3. On the outer race, the line at the edge is closest to the wheel. What did
I get wrong? Or is there another problem?

With luck, no anxiety-inducing post reply from you know who.

[WHO1DMC]

Hm. I've just redone mine, and I posted this on Facebook, but no one responded. On one of the joints, it's certainly binding a bit; I'm pretty sure I have the orientation correct, and I didn't see any green dots. I know
that the races have to be aligned think/thin as per the guide, and this particular joint took a long time to get the bearings in vs the other 3. On the outer race, the line at the edge is closest to the wheel. What did
I get wrong? Or is there another problem?

With luck, no anxiety-inducing post reply from you know who.

If no green dot. I would refer to the surface of the inner race for the raised lip. That needs to face the boot. The flat surface tord the c clip.



Dave B.

[MrChocky]

If no green dot. I would refer to the surface of the inner race for the raised lip. That needs to face the boot. The flat surface tord the c clip.



Dave B.


Right yes, otherwise the circlip won't go on properly. I've taken it apart, and tried different combinations of things, and it just doesn't move right, no matter what. I
checked all the surfaces for scratches, etc, and don't see anything. Even with only a couple of bearings in it doesn't move properly. Perhaps something is deformed.
At this point, I'll need to take apart one of my spares and use those.

[MrChocky]

Final follow up on this; I had determined from the end cap markings that the joint I had put in was in fact one of my
spares. I pulled of a working end in record time, and clean and put it on, and have now bolted the CV joints in
(not to self, still need to torque), The mystery of the other one remains, but probably best as parts at this point.

Also, get the correct tool - the ones from DeLoreanGo are the crimp type, and not the tool earlier referenced. They're
a real PITA to get on.

[JBaker4981]

Also, get the correct tool - the ones from DeLoreanGo are the crimp type, and not the tool earlier referenced. They're
a real PITA to get on.

Exactly why I took my shafts to a good ole boy mechanic shop. I had already bought one pair in preparation and found the difference pretty quickly