Project Vixen
08-11-2022, 05:34 PM
I am trying to help a friend out with an early VIN car. He had a leaking rear main seal, so we pulled the transmission as part of the repair. While the transmission was out, he had it rebuilt and also ordered a new clutch, clutch fork, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, bleeder extension hose, shifter bushings and more from DeLorean Go. I helped with the transmission removal, while my friend and a couple of others did the reinstallation of the rear main, clutch and trans.
On the initial reassembly, they realized he needed the 10-spline not the 21-spline items, so he re-ordered the correct parts. He needed a new fork as well, and told me the original was not available, but he said DGo assured him that the newer fork would work (though I do see that they stock the early version on their site so I'm not so sure). He also ordered a pilot tool for the 10-spline (and he said he also got the early style throwout bearing). He replaced the rear main seal (which still seems to be leaking, which is another issue -- I'm not sure if they used the 'right stuff' sealant or only the paper gasket). I understand they had a hard time getting the trans and motor to click together, and he said they had to use the bolts to 'pull' the trans up snug with the block, with a medium amount of force. I'm not liking that last part -- sounds like something was off alignment or the like.
Well... here's where it gets interesting. I believe the clutch cylinder and lines are pretty well bled. There is a nice firm (actually very firm) pedal, and I can see a good amount of movement from the pin on the back of the slave cylinder when actuating the clutch, and at the clutch itself. We had a bit of trouble shifting through the gears at first, but once the cable was adjusted again it will now shift 1-5 & reverse just fine... but only with the engine turned off. It won't go into ANY gear with the engine running.
Getting more interesting... we lifted it off of the back wheels so both were free. In neutral, either wheel spins either direction without affecting the other. In gear, turning one wheel makes the other revolve in the opposite direction. These are what I would expect. Now since shifting into gear with the engine running wasn't possible, we shifted into 1st with it off, pressed in the clutch, and started the car. When letting out the clutch, neither wheel turns... they just kind of 'shudder'. I would have thought something still needs bled in the clutch lines, except air in the lines wouldn't cause the clutch not to grab at all. I would think it would be the opposite -- the clutch would have issues releasing, not engaging.
One guess is that possibly that new style fork isn't compatible, causing a preload of force on the clutch, which might have been what necessitated 'pulling' the trans/motor together with the bolts, so the clutch might be effectively now 'pressed in' without even touching the pedal. Seeing if the clutch is spinning when in gear with the motor running might help, though I don't want to get under it then (but two phones with facetime makes a great inspection camera!)
So... any guesses as to what was missed, or what is wrong? Any and all help is appreciated!
On the initial reassembly, they realized he needed the 10-spline not the 21-spline items, so he re-ordered the correct parts. He needed a new fork as well, and told me the original was not available, but he said DGo assured him that the newer fork would work (though I do see that they stock the early version on their site so I'm not so sure). He also ordered a pilot tool for the 10-spline (and he said he also got the early style throwout bearing). He replaced the rear main seal (which still seems to be leaking, which is another issue -- I'm not sure if they used the 'right stuff' sealant or only the paper gasket). I understand they had a hard time getting the trans and motor to click together, and he said they had to use the bolts to 'pull' the trans up snug with the block, with a medium amount of force. I'm not liking that last part -- sounds like something was off alignment or the like.
Well... here's where it gets interesting. I believe the clutch cylinder and lines are pretty well bled. There is a nice firm (actually very firm) pedal, and I can see a good amount of movement from the pin on the back of the slave cylinder when actuating the clutch, and at the clutch itself. We had a bit of trouble shifting through the gears at first, but once the cable was adjusted again it will now shift 1-5 & reverse just fine... but only with the engine turned off. It won't go into ANY gear with the engine running.
Getting more interesting... we lifted it off of the back wheels so both were free. In neutral, either wheel spins either direction without affecting the other. In gear, turning one wheel makes the other revolve in the opposite direction. These are what I would expect. Now since shifting into gear with the engine running wasn't possible, we shifted into 1st with it off, pressed in the clutch, and started the car. When letting out the clutch, neither wheel turns... they just kind of 'shudder'. I would have thought something still needs bled in the clutch lines, except air in the lines wouldn't cause the clutch not to grab at all. I would think it would be the opposite -- the clutch would have issues releasing, not engaging.
One guess is that possibly that new style fork isn't compatible, causing a preload of force on the clutch, which might have been what necessitated 'pulling' the trans/motor together with the bolts, so the clutch might be effectively now 'pressed in' without even touching the pedal. Seeing if the clutch is spinning when in gear with the motor running might help, though I don't want to get under it then (but two phones with facetime makes a great inspection camera!)
So... any guesses as to what was missed, or what is wrong? Any and all help is appreciated!