is this rear main seal ? only one side

[glockworks21]

I have oil leaking slowly out of the half shaft on the drivers side only. the passenger side is completely dry. I believe its trickling down from here and getting to the linkage (see pics) Whats going on ?

[glockworks21]

I see the drive shaft seal kit on DGO. Hopefully thats it? I can start from there. Is it a major job to replace them?

am i on the right track?

[MrChocky]

I see the drive shaft seal kit on DGO. Hopefully thats it? I can start from there. Is it a major job to replace them?

am i on the right track?

It's a bit hard to be sure from the pictures, but if it's leaking at the linkage, then it might just be the gasket at the end of the transmission. This
is a relatively small job, that can be done without removing the transmission - you need to remove the linkages and mount bolts, drain the oil, and remove
the cap. Also a chance to check that the nuts inside are tight. The gasket is cheap from vendors. While you're at it, you might want to replace
the bushings on the shift linkage.

[Gregadeth]

If it's the axle shaft leaking, you'll likely need to replace the axle seal and the o-ring. I just did my driver side this weekend. But I don't think an axle seal leak would reach the linkages, it generally drips down the side and collects at the bottom around the drain bolt.

[82DMC12]

Very rare for the transmission end cap gasket to leak (paper gasket). Oil hanging from the linkage is probably gear oil coming through the "selector shaft seal" and then getting into the bellows. This seal can only be replaced if you remove the end cap from the transmission and the spring inside makes it a Bitch (capital B).

The axle leaks are best fixed by:

1) replacing the o-ring the slides over the splined axle and butts up against the differential bearing (one each side)
2) Remove the axle yokes and get them sleeved by Rob Grady
3) Replace the yoke lip seals, pack them with red grease, and put either hylomar AF or gray RTV on the outside perimeter of the seal before tapping it in
4) put a bead of Hylomar AF inside the axle yoke between the outside of the yoke and where the roll pin punches through
5) Tap in the roll pin with the open side facing OUTWARD

Also replace all the hex bolts that holds the axles to the outer drive shaft and yokes with allen head screws, you can get the kit from DPI.

[glockworks21]

If it's the axle shaft leaking, you'll likely need to replace the axle seal and the o-ring. I just did my driver side this weekend. But I don't think an axle seal leak would reach the linkages, it generally drips down the side and collects at the bottom around the drain bolt.

was it fairly straight forward to do the axle seal? Im pretty sure that the one side is bad. I will have to look again at the linkage. May be two problems. But for sure leaking from the shaft. the other side is completely dry..

[82DMC12]

The axle lip seal is an exercise in frustration if you don't have a lift. The seal taps in VERY tightly and even putting it in a deep freezer for a few days prior doesn't help. You need to make some kind of an arbor to tap it in evenly since the differential stub is sticking out of the transmission. Then you have very little room to swing a mallet especially if lying on your back. I don't recommend it.

That being said, I made an arbor out of PVC pipe fittings and bushings.

This would be a simple job for any auto repair shop with a lift. Provide them with a new lip seal (104216) and axle o-ring (103120) and it shouldn't take long. They'll be even happier if you replace all those M10 bolts for the CV joints with allen head bolts first.

[Gregadeth]

was it fairly straight forward to do the axle seal? Im pretty sure that the one side is bad. I will have to look again at the linkage. May be two problems. But for sure leaking from the shaft. the other side is completely dry..I found myself saying "if only I had a lift" many times during this job. Without a lift, you're gonna be laying on your back, and that's what makes this a shitty job. I had a lot of trouble getting that flange pin removed, until I got the right tool (6mm pin punch). Then the old seal didn't wanna come out, I went and got a seal remover tool ($8 at Harbor Freight), came out in 2 seconds. I recommend removing the entire half shaft, otherwise it's gonna get in the way - it's six 17mm bolts on each end, these come out easy.

[glockworks21]

thanks for the advice. got everything to do the job. you guys said to check to make sure i could get the fill plug out before i drained and thats as far as i got. its the square head and seems frozen. can see where its been messed with before. rounded a bit. 10mm wrench fits but wont move and afraid to round it even more. soaked it with penetrant oil for now. should i put some heat on it?

Thanks

[MrChocky]

thanks for the advice. got everything to do the job. you guys said to check to make sure i could get the fill plug out before i drained and thats as far as i got. its the square head and seems frozen. can see where its been messed with before. rounded a bit. 10mm wrench fits but wont move and afraid to round it even more. soaked it with penetrant oil for now. should i put some heat on it?

Thanks

You don't want to use a wrench here. You want the get the correct square socket, and then possibly use with a breaker bar. The factory size plugs are I believe 10mm, but
the replacement ones I got from DGo are 7/16th.

[Gregadeth]

thanks for the advice. got everything to do the job. you guys said to check to make sure i could get the fill plug out before i drained and thats as far as i got. its the square head and seems frozen. can see where its been messed with before. rounded a bit. 10mm wrench fits but wont move and afraid to round it even more. soaked it with penetrant oil for now. should i put some heat on it?

ThanksMine was rounded as well but I went and got a 3/8 Gator Grip socket, and it took it out no problem.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-Grip-3-8-in-Universal-Socket-with-Power-Drill-Adapter-ETC120A/100351756

[MrChocky]

Mine was rounded as well but I went and got a 3/8 Gator Grip socket, and it took it out no problem.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-Grip-3-8-in-Universal-Socket-with-Power-Drill-Adapter-ETC120A/100351756

People love or hate these. I immediately broke mine trying to take out the plug. I think you're just better off getting the correct tool.

[Gregadeth]

People love or hate these. I immediately broke mine trying to take out the plug. I think you're just better off getting the correct tool.Worth a shot, but if the plug is rounded even a little bit, you wouldn't be able to get the square socket on there. That was my experience, before going with the Gator Grip.

[David T]

Worth a shot, but if the plug is rounded even a little bit, you wouldn't be able to get the square socket on there. That was my experience, before going with the Gator Grip.

The gator grip socket is OK but you can't put a lot of stress on them. For the plugs that are messed up I just hammer the correct socket on as far as I can and then use a beaker bar and they have always come off. It is a bit of a pain to get them out of the socket but using a big hammer always does it. Once you get it out you file or grind the square flat again unless you replace it with a magnetic plug (the drain plug, the level plug doesn't have to be magnetic).

[glockworks21]

Ive ordered 10mm 4point square socket-- should be here today. I will get the gator if it doesnt work. I am beginning to have doubts about doing this. I dont have a lift. Its on ramps now and i have decent access but its still tight. I can jack up when i need to spin the wheels to get to the bolts on the cv joints. Im positive now this is all original and never been removed. everything is caked on around those cv bolts and the first one i tried is not coming out easy. Probably try and use impact gun to take them out. otherwise its going to be a hell of a workout.
Either way ive paused on doing anything until the socket arrives. If i cant get that out then there is no point in me going any farther being i wont be able to fill the transmission.

as always thanks for all your help.

[MrChocky]

Ive ordered 10mm 4point square socket-- should be here today. I will get the gator if it doesnt work. I am beginning to have doubts about doing this. I dont have a lift. Its on ramps now and i have decent access but its still tight. I can jack up when i need to spin the wheels to get to the bolts on the cv joints. Im positive now this is all original and never been removed. everything is caked on around those cv bolts and the first one i tried is not coming out easy. Probably try and use impact gun to take them out. otherwise its going to be a hell of a workout.
Either way ive paused on doing anything until the socket arrives. If i cant get that out then there is no point in me going any farther being i wont be able to fill the transmission.

as always thanks for all your help.

Yeah, it's a bit of a workout, especially as you say, it's all original. I suspect you're gonna spend a lot of time cleaning up and addressing other stuff too, as I did even though it's been done at least once before on my car (I did it all on ramps). Good luck, and don't be afraid
to ask for help.

[Ron]

Ive ordered 10mm 4point square socket...This is your best bet, imho.

[glockworks21]

so ive already f- this up once. am i supposed to use the 3 washers on the right with the newer style seal from dgo? Im stuck and dont want to screw up another one. I have a socket big enough to tap this in flush. Just not sure if i should be trying to use all of those washers?
Thanks guys for your help.

[glockworks21]

I put the new seal in on its own. Upon further inspection and a lot of help (thanks gregadeath) it appears that washer was just part of the old style seal. I will finish rebuilding joints tomorrow and put it all back together and see if it leaks.. fingers crossed.

[glockworks21]

[QUOTE=82DMC12;273443]Very rare for the transmission end cap gasket to leak (paper gasket). Oil hanging from the linkage is probably gear oil coming through the "selector shaft seal" and then getting into the bellows. This seal can only be replaced if you remove the end cap from the transmission and the spring inside makes it a Bitch (capital B).

I am about to order the seal and gasket to change this. The oil is all over the top of the linkage. Im 99 % sure its from selector shaft seal. Im going to put it on stands and ramps and give it a shot. I looked at blueprints and am not seeing the spring you refer to. No way to change without removing end cap? scale of 1-10 how hard is this job?

Thanks
Dave..

[82DMC12]

[QUOTE=82DMC12;273443]Very rare for the transmission end cap gasket to leak (paper gasket). Oil hanging from the linkage is probably gear oil coming through the "selector shaft seal" and then getting into the bellows. This seal can only be replaced if you remove the end cap from the transmission and the spring inside makes it a Bitch (capital B).

I am about to order the seal and gasket to change this. The oil is all over the top of the linkage. Im 99 % sure its from selector shaft seal. Im going to put it on stands and ramps and give it a shot. I looked at blueprints and am not seeing the spring you refer to. No way to change without removing end cap? scale of 1-10 how hard is this job?

Thanks
Dave..I have not attempted this job with the transmission in the car so please take my comments under that consideration.

Removing the cap should not be difficult. Disconnect the shift rod both at the bell crank and the shifter linkage and remove the rod from the car, noting which direction the bend in the rod goes. Might want to put a piece of painter's tape on it to mark front and rear as well as top and bottom. Then disconnect the crossgate cable from its pivot. Drain the oil from the transmission. Remove all of the M8 screws that hold the end cap to the transmission. Remove the end cap perhaps by tapping with a rubber mallet. Once off, you'll see the shift lever inside.

To remove the lever from the cap, first remove the small knockout plug and then tap out the roll pin holding the section finger to the lever shaft by tapping the pin out through the plug. Then you have to compress the spring enough to get the plastic half bushings out of the spring. I did it with small zip ties and plastic pry tools. The bushings will marr very easily if you use metal tools. Once the bushings are out, the lever slides out and you can change the seal.

Install is the reverse. I used a very thin coat of anaerobic on both sides of the new gasket and then torque to spec.

The spring took me at least an hour to remove and about the same to reinstall!

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[painterdave72]

I have removed the end cap with the trans in the car.. its not too bad.. there are 2 bolts which are kind of hidden behind the bracket at the top but you just have to feel for them and take them out.. and once its out its fairly straight forward to take the linkage part out and replace the lip seal in it... if you have any issues feel free to pm me.... Dave...

[82DMC12]

Also while you are in there, make sure you check the torque on the 5th gear nut. One common issue with this transmission is the nut can back off and blow a hole in the end cap. Select two gears at the same time to lock both shafts in place so you can apply the correct torque. The nut is staked so undo the stake, check the torque, and re-stake the nut.

[todd1561]

Also while you are in there, make sure you check the torque on the 5th gear nut. One common issue with this transmission is the nut can back off and blow a hole in the end cap. Select two gears at the same time to lock both shafts in place so you can apply the correct torque. The nut is staked so undo the stake, check the torque, and re-stake the nut.

I thinks it's also recommended to apply red loctite when tightening these nuts. It's been on my list to do for years. A friend of mine had this happen twice. No fun.

[82DMC12]

I thinks it's also recommended to apply red loctite when tightening these nuts. It's been on my list to do for years. A friend of mine had this happen twice. No fun.

Yes that's right, I should have said it. Use red loctite!

[glockworks21]

Thank you all. I will check that as well when I get everything out.

Thanks again
Dave

[glockworks21]

oil collecting at the larger rubber grommet and working way down..
for sure selector shaft seal yes?

Dave...

[82DMC12]

oil collecting at the larger rubber grommet and working way down..
for sure selector shaft seal yes?

Dave...

Yep!