Rear wheel bearing clunk

[todd1561]

I think this is a fairly common problem with our cars, my car has had the issue ever since I bought it in 2005 and I've seen threads pop up from time to time about it. It's the problem where you turn one way and one or both wheel bearings shift slightly in the rear hub carrier until you turn the opposite direction and they bang back to the other side. The sound is quite loud. I've heard of a couple solutions proposed over the years. When I spoke to Don Stegar about it a long time ago he mentioned they used to machine shims to take up the slack but the shims are not easy to produce. I think it was Rob Grady that once suggested using red loctite, but apparently it gives way after a while. After some research I came upon Loctite 609, which is a specialized bearing retaining formula specifically for this purpose. It's green in color. It seems like a better choice over regular red threadlocker. I installed my new bearings with it and have been clunk free for the first time in 17 years. Time will tell if it'll hold up but so far so good after 100 miles. Just an FYI for anyone looking for a possible solution.

Here's a link to the product https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BCDYD2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[82DMC12]

The bearing is held in place by the snap ring in the front, and the outer axle in the back. If the axle nut is properly torqued (I think it's over 200 lbs), the bearing "shouldn't" be shifting in the carrier. Do you think that is possible since you were just recently in there looking at it?

I agree, if you can keep the bearing from shifting in and out of the carrier, the Retaining Compound 609 should do the trick. I've used the same stuff before, most recently inside the manual transmission where the bearings lay in the casing.

[todd1561]

The tightness of the nut has nothing to do with the bearing moving within the hub carrier. A loose hub nut would potentially allow the spindle to move within the inner race, but that’s not the issue here. The outer race of the bearing is slapping around between the snap ring and the back casting on the hub carrier. The general consensus I’ve read is this is due to the snap ring groove being machined too far out creating a gap that allows movement. Personally, I think that’s just half the problem. I did note that the old bearing was removed with surprising ease using my threaded bearing press and just a ratchet. Pressing the new one in required a 3’ cheater bar and a lot of huffing and puffing. Needless to say the new bearing seemed to be a much better fit. This should inherently allow for significantly less movement, if any. But I’d say the use the retaining compound is cheap insurance.

[82DMC12]

Ah I see. Thanks for the correction. I was in there last year but I let a machine shop deal with it LOL.

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[todd1561]

I let a machine shop deal with it LOL.

Then you’re a lot smarter than I am haha

[CFI]

I think this is a fairly common problem with our cars, my car has had the issue ever since I bought it in 2005 and I've seen threads pop up from time to time about it. It's the problem where you turn one way and one or both wheel bearings shift slightly in the rear hub carrier until you turn the opposite direction and they bang back to the other side. The sound is quite loud. I've heard of a couple solutions proposed over the years. When I spoke to Don Stegar about it a long time ago he mentioned they used to machine shims to take up the slack but the shims are not easy to produce. I think it was Rob Grady that once suggested using red loctite, but apparently it gives way after a while. After some research I came upon Loctite 609, which is a specialized bearing retaining formula specifically for this purpose. It's green in color. It seems like a better choice over regular red threadlocker. I installed my new bearings with it and have been clunk free for the first time in 17 years. Time will tell if it'll hold up but so far so good after 100 miles. Just an FYI for anyone looking for a possible solution.

Here's a link to the product https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BCDYD2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Are you sure it’s the bearing? There are body bolts in that area that will create a similar knock during turns if they are loose.

[todd1561]

Yep definitely the bearings, this has been a well established problem with our cars for at least a couple decades. It doesn't affect all cars and there are other sources of "clunks" but this was definitely my problem. It presents itself in that very unique way I described where it'll only happen once when you turn hard in one direction and won't happen again until you turn hard again in the opposite direction.

Many of the long timers in the DeLo community have recognized it and/or offered solutions over the years (Dave Swingle, Don Stegar, Rob Grady, Marty Maier to name a few). Years ago I even had Swingle drive my car at a tech event and he confirmed the problem. I'm just throwing this out there as a potential solution in case it might help someone down the road.

[82DMC12]

My understanding is there are two versions of the rear carrier but it is not documented or noted in the parts manual or any of the technical bulletins. At least one difference is the top link bolt has to be longer in order to get the nut on, on one version of it.

[todd1561]

Interesting, I've never heard that. I have an earlier VIN so if there were improvements made during production I likely don't have them. Do you remember where you heard/read about there being a difference and what problem they were trying to solve?

[82DMC12]

Interesting, I've never heard that. I have an earlier VIN so if there were improvements made during production I likely don't have them. Do you remember where you heard/read about there being a difference and what problem they were trying to solve?

I have heard this in a couple places but for one, I know a guy who ordered new top link-to-carrier pivot bolts from a vendor and he got the wrong length. He asked why they don't fit and they informed here there are two types of carriers and thus two lengths of bolts. They then sent him the correct bolts. I can't remember where else I heard it but I've been in the forums since 1999. I've heard a lot of shit, right or wrong!

[vwdmc16]

I have had a similar issue with my left rear bearing, I've tried three different bearings and a few different Loctite sleeve locking compound. Even shimming metal between the bearing and housing. Nothing is really worked.

[todd1561]

Ah bummer. Do you remember how long (miles) the bearing compound lasted before it failed? Or did it never work? I’m surprised the shims didn’t work, my understanding was that’s the ultimate solution assuming you could make the shims out of a hard enough steel. Something like aluminum wouldn’t cut it.

For what it’s worth these are the bearings I used: https://www.deloreango.com/us/rear-hub-wheel-bearing.html
As I noted earlier these were significantly more difficult to install (I consider this a good thing) compared to how easy it was to remove the stock ones. I measured the new bearings to be 0.1mm larger than the stock. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is a significant factor to these bearings staying put (assuming they do!).

[r00b]

I had a similar clunk in the rear. When I did my frame off I found the shock bush was deteriorated and allowed for movement and that the hole for the shock had elongated, also it had worn about half way threw the threaded rod on the shock where it was rubbing on the frame. After a stainless frame and new shocks, no more clunk.

[MrChocky]

I had a similar clunk in the rear. When I did my frame off I found the shock bush was deteriorated and allowed for movement and that the hole for the shock had elongated, also it had worn about half way threw the threaded rod on the shock where it was rubbing on the frame. After a stainless frame and new shocks, no more clunk.

I'm all for this upgrade, but this has got to rate as one of the most expensive repairs of 2022!

[r00b]

Easy to check if that's your problem. You don't have to get a new frame, just have the hole repaired if it is.

[David T]

Easy to check if that's your problem. You don't have to get a new frame, just have the hole repaired if it is.

If the hole for the shock is distorted the fix is to have a large washer welded over the hole. While you are at it check the other side too. Often when this happens it is because the shock is bad but it also happens when those rubber bushings go bad. If you do have to replace the shock "good Practice" is to do both front shocks.

[dmcindiana]

I think this is a fairly common problem with our cars, my car has had the issue ever since I bought it in 2005 and I've seen threads pop up from time to time about it. It's the problem where you turn one way and one or both wheel bearings shift slightly in the rear hub carrier until you turn the opposite direction and they bang back to the other side. The sound is quite loud. I've heard of a couple solutions proposed over the years. When I spoke to Don Stegar about it a long time ago he mentioned they used to machine shims to take up the slack but the shims are not easy to produce. I think it was Rob Grady that once suggested using red loctite, but apparently it gives way after a while. After some research I came upon Loctite 609, which is a specialized bearing retaining formula specifically for this purpose. It's green in color. It seems like a better choice over regular red threadlocker. I installed my new bearings with it and have been clunk free for the first time in 17 years. Time will tell if it'll hold up but so far so good after 100 miles. Just an FYI for anyone looking for a possible solution.

Here's a link to the product https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BCDYD2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Todd, been reading thru this thread and I appreciate all the advice. Want to be totally clear on something. There are no new bearings out there that are going to solve the problem of what is basically a flaw with the location of the snap ring groove, correct? It's a just a flaw we all live with and the extra stay-put solutions just have to go along with bearing installation?

Which bearing did you use that was a much better fit?

If I know my bearings themselves are fine, any reason I couldn't just find a shop that will fab shims and get those added without replacing the bearings?

Also, can I get away with local drives for the rest of this driving season without damaging the hub or is it an extremely stupid idea to keep driving with all that banging going on? --Danny

[todd1561]

That's correct, as far as I know none of the vendors provide a different bearing that specifically addresses this issue. If you know of a machine shop in your area that can produce the shims it couldn't hurt to give that a try. But from what I understand the thickness of the shims can vary and would probably need to be measured at each hub to produce the shim properly. You'd also need to ensure the bearing is completely pressed into and bottomed out in the hub carrier before you take that measurement. I don't know how you'd do that with the outboard drive shaft still installed. I suppose you could do a hard left turn until you hear the clunk, measure the left side. Then do a hard right turn until you hear the clunk and measure the right side :)

The bearings I used are the ones I linked to above from DeLorean Go. https://www.deloreango.com/us/rear-hub-wheel-bearing.html I did note upon installation that they were a MUCH tighter fit to press in compared to removing the old ones. Maybe it was that alone that's kept me clunk free for the last year, hard to say.

As far as I know there's no danger in just leaving it alone, plenty of these cars have been clunking around for decades to no ill-effect.

This all assumes whatever problem you're having is the same issue I started this thread about. There's no shortage of things on a delorean that can go clunk, but this one's pretty distinctive.

[dmcindiana]

Re your last note, you?re right to point that out. Another poster was describing a sound he was getting as someone smacking the firewall with a piece of wood. Very close to what I?m getting but even more accurately, it?s like there?s a heavy object tied with a string to the inside of the pontoon behind my left shoulder flopping around, but not all the time. I get it in turns but I do also get it just going straight from a stop. He said in his case it was fiberglass seam separation at the bottom of the vertical fiberglass. I checked my fiberglass and it looks good. Everything is secure in the pontoon. Shock bushings are old and crusty but they?re holding up. No metal on metal. That?s why the bearing seems likely. The combo of the DGo bearings and the 609 is sounding like a winner. Again, great advice.

[todd1561]

Hmm I don't think your noise is the bearing noise being discussed in this thread. This problem is very distinct and it's basically impossible you'd hear it when moving in a straight line. It will generally only happen when making harsh turns and then you'll hear 1-2 bangs depending on if one or both bearings shifted. You then won't hear a noise again until you make a harsh turn in the OPPOSITE direction as the bearing(s) shift to the opposite side. Something just 'flopping around' is definitely something else. I just don't want to see you spending a bunch of time and money chasing the wrong noise.

Todd

[ssdelorean]

Re your last note, you?re right to point that out. Another poster was describing a sound he was getting as someone smacking the firewall with a piece of wood. Very close to what I?m getting but even more accurately, it?s like there?s a heavy object tied with a string to the inside of the pontoon behind my left shoulder flopping around, but not all the time. I get it in turns but I do also get it just going straight from a stop. He said in his case it was fiberglass seam separation at the bottom of the vertical fiberglass. I checked my fiberglass and it looks good. Everything is secure in the pontoon. Shock bushings are old and crusty but they?re holding up. No metal on metal. That?s why the bearing seems likely. The combo of the DGo bearings and the 609 is sounding like a winner. Again, great advice.

Danny,
Did you try tightening the engine compartment crossbrace? Part Number: 108330
What your describing is similar to my experience with a loose brace.

[dmcindiana]

Danny,
Did you try tightening the engine compartment crossbrace? Part Number: 108330
What your describing is similar to my experience with a loose brace.

Hey, Shannon. Several days ago I grabbed the left end of it, attempted to jostle it, thought it was secure, and didn?t give it another thought. I?m going to be very embarrassed if I go home today and take a breaker bar to that bolt and find it backed out. Oof, assuming I have the right socket.

[ssdelorean]

Hey, Shannon. Several days ago I grabbed the left end of it, attempted to jostle it, thought it was secure, and didn?t give it another thought. I?m going to be very embarrassed if I go home today and take a breaker bar to that bolt and find it backed out. Oof, assuming I have the right socket.

If it is loose you will know it by wiggling it. My passenger side was loose and causing a lateral clunk. I tightened it up. Several months after that, I discovered the driver side worked itself loose but there was no clunk on this side. Maybe it wasn't loose enough yet.
If I remember, it might be a 17mm. Not sure.

[dmcindiana]

Yep, 17 mm. There was definitely no wiggle. The driver side crossbar bolt did accept tightening about a half turn with a small cheater bar. I didn't want to go more than that. The torque in the manual is real light. The passenger side took about a full turn with even less effort. I was also surprised at how much I could get out of the body bolt under the charcoal canister, but it was never legit loose, and I stopped before going super tight. I popped the wheel off again and took a wrench to everything at the hub carrier and the top of the shock. Everything was secure with no obvious damage to anything. Everything just looks like a 53,000-mile unrestored California DeLorean in there. I had the TABs replaced over the summer, and the noise definitely does not seem to be coming from there (that would be right under and behind my right hip), although I know the fiberglass can transmit sound real well. It's behind my back and to my left at low speeds and coming from the wheel area. There's no obvious connection to turning left or right, braking, going straight. I'm at the end of my skill level, so the car is going tomorrow to a local shop that I've used before and trust. I'm thinking TAB bushings, CV joints, bearings, or something wrong with the shock itself. Will report back. Thanks, all!!

[todd1561]

If you're able to record the sounds post it up here. Maybe hearing it will give me some ideas.

[dmcindiana]

I would have gladly made a recording if it made the noise again. Nothing on the way to the local guy to get an opinion. Not a hint of a thump. I thought it had something to do with the change of weather. After he got the car up on the lift, he casually mentioned he'd do a better job of securing the parking brake cable, which was in a very bad position. Then it hit me. During my final efforts to check torques and generally poke around the rear left suspension, right before my appointment to drop off the car, I added a bit of hose over the parking brake cable, because its arrangement was slightly horrifying. All kinds of chafing against the frame, axle, and trailing arm shield. I was certain it couldn't have had anything to do with the thump, and it never occurred to me that it could actually be catching in and out of the notch someone cut out of the trailing arm shield at some point, in sync with the entire suspension assembly's movement. That appears to have been it. No noise on the way to the mechanic and no noise on the way home. Just a section of hose added and nowhere for the cable to catch now. Sadly he cut the rear tip off the shield to increase cable clearance. I would never have approved that, but that tip did already have a notch cut out of it by a PO.

Does anyone have an image of the way the parking brake cable is supposed to look on final approach to the caliper?

Final bit of clarity: the PO did replace the cable and it's probably too long. No idea what vendor. Too much cable = touching too many components.

[82DMC12]

I would have gladly made a recording if it made the noise again. Nothing on the way to the local guy to get an opinion. Not a hint of a thump. I thought it had something to do with the change of weather. After he got the car up on the lift, he casually mentioned he'd do a better job of securing the parking brake cable, which was in a very bad position. Then it hit me. During my final efforts to check torques and generally poke around the rear left suspension, right before my appointment to drop off the car, I added a bit of hose over the parking brake cable, because its arrangement was slightly horrifying. All kinds of chafing against the frame, axle, and trailing arm shield. I was certain it couldn't have had anything to do with the thump, and it never occurred to me that it could actually be catching in and out of the notch someone cut out of the trailing arm shield at some point, in sync with the entire suspension assembly's movement. That appears to have been it. No noise on the way to the mechanic and no noise on the way home. Just a section of hose added and nowhere for the cable to catch now. Sadly he cut the rear tip off the shield to increase cable clearance. I would never have approved that, but that tip did already have a notch cut out of it by a PO.

Does anyone have an image of the way the parking brake cable is supposed to look on final approach to the caliper?

Final bit of clarity: the PO did replace the cable and it's probably too long. No idea what vendor. Too much cable = touching too many components.

I don't have a picture of the passenger side handy but I have one of the driver side. See below. The passenger side is supposed to come out of the body behind the driver seat, go through the trailing arm shield, under the frame, clip up to the tail cap of the transmission so it's not hanging down, go under the frame again and through the passenger side TA shield, then along the passenger frame ABOVE the upper link before bending towards the caliper. I've seen people try to run the cable under the upper link and it gets rubbed that way. I can take a picture of the passenger side tonight if needed.

70139

[dmcindiana]

Andy, this is great, and I do need driver's side. Do you have a photo capturing the entire visible part of the driver's cable? From body exit to caliper?

[82DMC12]

Andy, this is great, and I do need driver's side. Do you have a photo capturing the entire visible part of the driver's cable? From body exit to caliper?


Does this help?

70211

70212

[dmcindiana]

Perfect, Andy. Just what I needed. Exits the body next to the passenger cable exit, under trailing arm, swoops way up (partially concealed by the body), then over to the rotor. Stays on the outside of the frame the whole time. I don't remember exactly what mine does, but it ain't that. It's definitely partially routed on the inside of the frame. Haven't had much of a chance to check on things with the weather change and the holidays. Thanks again! --Danny

[jimgravina]

I too realized I also have (what is most likely) the wheel bearing clunk sounds.

I seem to have it from both sides as you can hear 2 distinctive "clunks" as I make hard turns. As the OP stated...its only when you turn the OPPOSITE direction you hear them clunk again.

I was searching, literally for years about what it could possibly be and have exhausted all other options, but the OP described my experience to a T, and I also have an early car.

Are you news bearings from DGO that you linked to still holding up well, and solving the problem?

Thanks!
Jim

[todd1561]

Yep still silent back there. It's a big job to do just to rid of the occasional clunk, but if you're in there anyway doing some suspension work it's probably worth it. Be sure you also use the bearing race retaining compound I mentioned in the original post. I don't know how much that's helping but it's cheap insurance.

[jimgravina]

Yeah, I plan on redoing my rear brakes (caliper rebuild, new rotos, pade, etc). May even do NOS wheel hubs.

I HAVE to get rid of that sound...ive gotten rid of all other creaks, squeaks, and clunks so its driving me nut but at least I know what it most likely is.

Big job in what sense? I was just gonna have a shop press in the new bearing into the hub and carrier then just reinstall.

[82DMC12]

Yeah, I plan on redoing my rear brakes (caliper rebuild, new rotos, pade, etc). May even do NOS wheel hubs.

I HAVE to get rid of that sound...ive gotten rid of all other creaks, squeaks, and clunks so its driving me nut but at least I know what it most likely is.

Big job in what sense? I was just gonna have a shop press in the new bearing into the hub and carrier then just reinstall.

Shouldn't be that bad at all if you have a machine shop do all the hard work, assuming your carrier pivot bolts aren't seized in the bushing sleeves.

[jimgravina]

Shouldn't be that bad at all if you have a machine shop do all the hard work, assuming your carrier pivot bolts aren't seized in the bushing sleeves.

I should be good on that front...just redid the suspension back there last year with new bolts and anti-seize so that shouldn't be an issue. But yeah, I would definitely have a shop press in the bearings.

[jimgravina]

Yep still silent back there. It's a big job to do just to rid of the occasional clunk, but if you're in there anyway doing some suspension work it's probably worth it. Be sure you also use the bearing race retaining compound I mentioned in the original post. I don't know how much that's helping but it's cheap insurance.

Curious if you put the locktite 609 on just the outer race into the hub carrier, or the inside races as well for the drive shaft. Getting ready to do this job over the winter. Thanks!

[82DMC12]

Curious if you put the locktite 609 on just the outer race into the hub carrier, or the inside races as well for the drive shaft. Getting ready to do this job over the winter. Thanks!FYI the 609 is supposed to protect the bearing from spinning in the same direction as rotation, but it won't stop it from shifting laterally if that's the source of the clunk. It wouldn't hurt to use it but I don't think it's necessary in this application.

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[todd1561]

Curious if you put the locktite 609 on just the outer race into the hub carrier, or the inside races as well for the drive shaft. Getting ready to do this job over the winter. Thanks!

I only applied it to the outer race of the bearing and the mating surface of the hub as that's the only portion that's shifting. The spindle within the inner race is completely snugged down when you tighten the hub nut.

Thankfully, I'm still clunk free!

[jimgravina]

I only applied it to the outer race of the bearing and the mating surface of the hub as that's the only portion that's shifting. The spindle within the inner race is completely snugged down when you tighten the hub nut.

Thankfully, I'm still clunk free!

Ok great! I am going to be finishing this job in the next week or so. Already have old bearing out, but wasn't sure if I should use the retaining compoud on both the outer and inner race or not. My guy was telling me just the outer so thank you for clarifying. Glad you are clunk free! Any other tips while reassembling everything?