Governor/trasmission Delorean automatic problem

[alexdmc1]

Hi everyone, I'm a new owner of a beautiful 1981 DeLorean automatic.A car that has only 27,000 miles with an automatic transmission. the engine and the chassis and bodywork are also in excellent condition. I am very happy with your site and I am learning so many things. I'd like to ask you a technical question, I have a big problem: the gearbox in "N" tries to move forward very slowly, in "R" the car tries to move forward very slowly, also in "D" ,"1"," 2" the car tries to move forward very slowly, but cannot move forward.

Link video test:
http://alexdmc1.quickconnect.to/mo/sharing/ybVfcTPFU

Test solenoid:

Gear "1" solenoid 1 12v + solenoid 2 12v
Gear "2" solenoid 1 12v + solenoid 2 12v
Gear "D" + Gear "R" + Gear "N" solenoid 1 12v + solenoid 2 12v

All Gear position solenoid 1 and 2=12volt

6927169272692736927469275

[David T]

With +12 volts on both solenoids you should be in first gear. Car should move. First thing to check is the auto trans fluid level. It should be in between full and low, look reddish and not smell burnt. At this point just add some if it is low. If that doesn't get it to work it will need to come out and get rebuilt, the clutch packs are shot. You can also make sure the shift linkage is adjusted correctly and that you are in Drive. Get the Workshop Manual and do all of the external On Car checks and adjustments. If adding fluid gets you going you should change it and the filter. If you see a lot of friction debris in the pan figure the transmission is not going to last very long.

[Ron]

"Gear "1" solenoid 1 12v + solenoid 2 12v"
OK

"Gear "2" solenoid 1 12v + solenoid 2 12v"
Should be 12V on one solenoid only.

So, check the multifunction switch.
(FWIW, I've only seen one that was bad. You may have something shorting the two solenoid feed wires to 12V...harness against exhaust maybe...)

See Shift Logic chart: https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?350-Automatic-Transmission-Governor&highlight=computer+governor

=============

Check and see if it pulls forward when in "R" and Fuse #13 removed.

Does it slip when it "moves forward slowly"?

Is/was the fluid burnt (brown, not pink/red)?

[alexdmc1]

Hello everyone and thanks for your replies. I have changed the automatic transmission fluid 3 times and added up to 4.5 liters but the car still has the same problem. I opened the lid and thoroughly cleaned the pan and filter. it was very dirty. I washed it thoroughly with thinner and compressed air, unfortunately I don't have a replacement filter. the transmission cable seems to be in excellent condition because it freely moves the gear that moves the switches of the multifunction switch; every time the lever is moved, the gear locks thanks to a steel ball for each position. everything moves in the right place. When I remove fuse #13 this happens:

1 gear: solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF
2 gears: solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF
D gear + N gear + R gear : solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF

I'll have to try putting it in reverse and see what happens.

how do I test the "multifunction switch" correctly?

A trusted mechanic of mine advises me to overhaul the internal clutch, but why do you think the car goes forward in reverse and in neutral? I'm confused!

[David T]

You can't properly clean the filter unless you cut it apart. It is all plugged up inside if you say the pan was full of debris. Grind off the crimp, separate the parts, clean everything. Reassemble in the correct order. Cut a piece of copper tubing about 19 1/2" long and slit it lengthwise. Wrap it around the filter to seal it back together. Figure the trans must be replaced or rebuilt. Get a pressure gauge and measure the line pressure. Unless you can get it up the transmission isn't going to work. Continuing to try to make it work and causing the clutch packs to slip will just wear them out even more.

[Jonathan]

Nevermind with trying to clean an old filter. Just buy a new one. Trying to clean them was something people did years ago while auto trans filters were NLA. They aren't NLA anymore.

https://store.delorean.com/103702-auto-trans-filter-includes-gasket.html

https://www.deloreango.com/ca/automatic-transmission-filter.html

[Ron]

Hello everyone and thanks for your replies. I have changed the automatic transmission fluid 3 times and added up to 4.5 liters but the car still has the same problem. I opened the lid and thoroughly cleaned the pan and filter. it was very dirty. I washed it thoroughly with thinner and compressed air, unfortunately I don't have a replacement filter. the transmission cable seems to be in excellent condition because it freely moves the gear that moves the switches of the multifunction switch; every time the lever is moved, the gear locks thanks to a steel ball for each position. everything moves in the right place. When I remove fuse #13 this happens:

1 gear: solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF
2 gears: solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF
D gear + N gear + R gear : solenoid 1 OFF - solenoid 2 OFF

I'll have to try putting it in reverse and see what happens.

how do I test the "multifunction switch" correctly?

A trusted mechanic of mine advises me to overhaul the internal clutch, but why do you think the car goes forward in reverse and in neutral? I'm confused!You didn't answer, but I'm assuming that the fluid was burnt since you changed it several times. Dark fluid is caused by the clutch material from the clutches (and/or bands), released as they wear. There is no way to adjust them, as with a manual's clutch. There are several sets of clutches. Some sets must be able to hold in order for others to work properly...only one of several reasons that can cause it to always pull forward. Clutch material making its way into the valve body is another. (In your video, the tires were off of the ground, where it doesn't take much to turn the wheels. It pulling the weight of the car while on the ground would add to the clues.)
With these symptoms, I'd have to agree with your mechanic (even with just the amount of clutch material it sounds like there was in the fluid).

The results from removing the fuse are normal.

To test the multifunction switch, you would need to disconnect it, electrically, and use the schematic and logic chart....

[David T]

No need to test the multi-function switch or even worry about the shift computer, aka governor. If the mechanicals are damaged the electricals don't matter. Clean or replace the filter and get the line pressure up. If that doesn't get you moving with the fuse pulled (3rd gear, limp home mode) or power to both solenoids (1st gear) the trans is dead. Without sufficient line pressure the clutch packs can't lock up and will slip till they die (they are probably already burnt out). If the pan is clean now you *could* try without filter just to test it. Was there much metal on the magnet in the pan? If there was, then you are past the point where you are just getting friction materiel off the clutch packs. Now you are getting materiel off the steel plates too. If you see a lot of non-ferrous metal (brass/bronze/aluminum) the transmission may no longer be rebuildable.

[Ron]

No need to test the multi-function switch or even worry about the shift computer, aka governor. If the mechanicals are damaged the electricals don't matter. Clean or replace the filter and get the line pressure up. If that doesn't get you moving with the fuse pulled (3rd gear, limp home mode) or power to both solenoids (1st gear) the trans is dead. Without sufficient line pressure the clutch packs can't lock up and will slip till they die (they are probably already burnt out). If the pan is clean now you *could* try without filter just to test it. Was there much metal on the magnet in the pan? If there was, then you are past the point where you are just getting friction materiel off the clutch packs. Now you are getting materiel off the steel plates too. If you see a lot of non-ferrous metal (brass/bronze/aluminum) the transmission may no longer be rebuildable.
I disagree WRT not testing the multifunction switch and shift computer. Odds are one of them caused the problem... There should never be 12v going to both solenoids when in "2", which went away when the fuse was pulled. (A fair indication some other short is not causing the problem.)
Actually, that is not a "limp mode". Limp mode is usually second gear, by design, for transmissions that have one. 3rd gear just happens to be what gear this trans is in when there is no electrical power. The clutch pack for 2nd can barely handle gently pulling off from a dead stop, because it is so small, being why it is what usually burns out when there is a GC problem. (For 3rd, think about putting a manual in 5th at a stop sign.)

If the fluid wasn't real bad, I could see trying it without a filter. But, since it's what the filter protects mainly, you risk filling the valve body with debris.

=======

If you trust the mechanic, listen to him. There is nothing special about the Delorean transmission itself. In fact, it is very simple compared to most.

[mhanch]

I mentioned on another thread, make sure that the Throttle Microswitches are not stuck open or closed - that was screwing with my transmission a lot. you can unplug them to test out.

and I flushed my fluid several times to get all the old fluid out when I did my filter change. it was really old.

[David T]

I agree that the shift computer (or even the multi-switch) probably caused the damage but at this point it doesn't matter. If the clutch packs are burnt out, fixing the shift computer ain't gonna get you going! When you have power to both solenoids you should get 1st gear and with no power to either you get 3rd gear (I call it limp-home mode). The designers figured the transmission would spend most of it's time in 3rd so they made that mode the most efficient. It *can* get you home if you are really easy about it and gently get yourself going. At this point all you can do is try to get the line pressure up and see if it will move without slipping. If it slips AT ALL the transmission must come out. Don't waste time with the electronics now if the mechanicals are bad. If you can get the transmission to move the car, then you can worry about the electrticals.

[alexdmc1]

6928869287
good morning guys. Today I did some important tests. I reply to the previous message: when I drained the "original" oil it was dark and smelly. Today I measured the pressure in the automatic transmission. I lifted the wheels. The pressure was always at 0 bar. I accelerated up to 2500 in "Drive", then in "First" then in "Second". The gauge remained stationary, even with a very hot car. I saw that a little oil was coming out of the cap (see photo in the manual), is this normal? When I opened and cleaned the automatic transmission cover, I put in 4.5 liters, perhaps even more of new oil.

[David T]

6928869287
good morning guys. Today I did some important tests. I reply to the previous message: when I drained the "original" oil it was dark and smelly. Today I measured the pressure in the automatic transmission. I lifted the wheels. The pressure was always at 0 bar. I accelerated up to 2500 in "Drive", then in "First" then in "Second". The gauge remained stationary, even with a very hot car. I saw that a little oil was coming out of the cap (see photo in the manual), is this normal? When I opened and cleaned the automatic transmission cover, I put in 4.5 liters, perhaps even more of new oil.

Without line pressure you got nothing. Try without the filter. At this point you have nothing to lose.

[alexdmc1]

Without line pressure you got nothing. Try without the filter. At this point you have nothing to lose.

Does a lot of oil have to come out of the cap? little oil came out. I will order a new filter and try the last chance, then I have to take the car to the mechanic. thank you

[David T]

Does a lot of oil have to come out of the cap? little oil came out. I will order a new filter and try the last chance, then I have to take the car to the mechanic. thank you

As long as the motor isn't running you won't get a whole lot of oil coming out when you remove the plug. At this point you don't have to wait for the filter, just try without it. My guess is, even if you can get the line pressure up, the transmission needs to be rebuilt. Even if you can get it to actually work, you have lost so much of it's life (the clutch friction plates are so worn) that it should come out. At this point all you can do is prove out that the transmission can work and shift so all you need to do is replace all of the frictions, steels, seals and thrust washers. The hard parts, the gears, housings, torque convertor, valve body and such are in working condition (if it actually can move the car). That way you know you have a rebuildable core. If you can't get any line pressure the transmission is probably not rebuildable and therefore is not worth anything as a core. In that case you don't need to waste any time trying to rebuild your transmission, you need to either find another automatic transmission or consider converting the car to a 5-speed. Depending on what it will cost in parts it *could* be more economical to convert.

[glockworks21]

I hope to hear updates on what you had to do to get it going. Anyone had to get a transmission rebuilt lately? Wondering what a shop other than DMC would charge for something like that?

Dave

[Rich]

?..Wondering what a shop other than DMC would charge for something like that?

Get in touch with a fellow D owner, vwdmc16, in this forum.
Send Mr Wolff a PM. He has a shop in your area and works on our NCDMC cars. Will give you good advice if he’s done any auto transmission replacements or he?ll refer you to somebody. Good guy to know for this or other D stuff you need done.
Say hi to him from Rich.

[MrChocky]

I hope to hear updates on what you had to do to get it going. Anyone had to get a transmission rebuilt lately? Wondering what a shop other than DMC would charge for something like that?

Dave

The auto transmission isn't particularly complex, however there's a lot of work involved in getting it in and out of the car. And if it's out, you
may as well do the rear main seal as well, so the labor is likely to add up if you pay someone to do it. Although it could be well worth it
to have it done properly.

[David T]

Get in touch with a fellow D owner, vwdmc16, in this forum.
Send Mr Wolff a PM. He has a shop in your area and works on our NCDMC cars. Will give you good advice if he?s done any auto transmission replacements or he?ll refer you to somebody. Good guy to know for this or other D stuff you need done.
Say hi to him from Rich.


I have a rebuilt auto trans ready to go with a rebuilt torque convertor. No shift computer.