Delphi FG0089 Questions

[mwesten]

Hey folks - doing front to back fuel refresh. Have new injectors and DPI lines in. Just drained the tank and getting ready to replace the OG unit for the Delphi FG0089. A few questions I need your expertise with:

1) The unit didn?t come with any ?quick connect? hose fittings. Do I need these and if so what part number did you use? FYI the top of this pump is the white plastic not metal, so not sure I want to crank down new 5/16 hoses direct to the pump top.

2) It came with a rubber ring/seal, but of course I?d need the V clamp correct? Which part do you recommend? EDIT: I just test fitted the rubber ring and it fits perfectly on the inside of the tank opening, maintaining a small lip at the top. It doesn’t come out and around the tank opening, if that makes sense.

3) Since this includes the sending unit, anyone know the wiring matchups I?d need to do to connect the pump harness to the car?s? I did see this video (https://youtu.be/-a4LPTmwKmw), but they using the separate/OEM sender unit, so not soldering all the wires in the pump harness. BTW the pump harness I have has black, purple, grey and orange/black wires.

4) I was thinking of making my own cap for the now vacant sender hole at the top of the tank. Especially since I have the original screw on ring. Any risk with this or should I just buy a solid one?

Know that?s a pile of stuff but figure someone else has done this already.

[81dmc]

Quick connects are 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for return. For your sender, I would just run a factory style.


I would get rid of that POS Lucas plug and solder the pigtail directly to the harness.


No idea on V band. Someone will probably chime in here with that.

[mwesten]

Quick connects are 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for return. For your sender, I would just run a factory style.


I would get rid of that POS Lucas plug and solder the pigtail directly to the harness.


No idea on V band. Someone will probably chime in here with that.

Ok thanks that helps? went ahead and ordered the connects so that knocks out #1.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought my V-clamp from DMCH. Don't think it was a standard part number. I also built my own sender cap using the OEM threaded cap. My tank had a large notch so it would not seal the DMCH cap.

[82DMC12]

Hey folks - doing front to back fuel refresh. Have new injectors and DPI lines in. Just drained the tank and getting ready to replace the OG unit for the Delphi FG0089. A few questions I need your expertise with:

1) The unit didn?t come with any ?quick connect? hose fittings. Do I need these and if so what part number did you use? FYI the top of this pump is the white plastic not metal, so not sure I want to crank down new 5/16 hoses direct to the pump top.

2) It came with a rubber ring/seal, but of course I?d need the V clamp correct? Which part do you recommend? EDIT: I just test fitted the rubber ring and it fits perfectly on the inside of the tank opening, maintaining a small lip at the top. It doesn?t come out and around the tank opening, if that makes sense.

3) Since this includes the sending unit, anyone know the wiring matchups I?d need to do to connect the pump harness to the car?s? I did see this video (https://youtu.be/-a4LPTmwKmw), but they using the separate/OEM sender unit, so not soldering all the wires in the pump harness. BTW the pump harness I have has black, purple, grey and orange/black wires.

4) I was thinking of making my own cap for the now vacant sender hole at the top of the tank. Especially since I have the original screw on ring. Any risk with this or should I just buy a solid one?

Know that?s a pile of stuff but figure someone else has done this already.


I'm trying to follow along. You bought "DPI lines" which I guess is the fuel line set (smart man) but you didn't get the DPI pump kit? And now you're trying to figure out how to make it all work? You'd be done by now if you had just bought the fuel pump from DPI.

[mwesten]

I'm trying to follow along. You bought "DPI lines" which I guess is the fuel line set (smart man) but you didn't get the DPI pump kit? And now you're trying to figure out how to make it all work? You'd be done by now if you had just bought the fuel pump from DPI.

Yeah I guess I could have. I?m on a budget and didn?t want to drop that kind of coin on that solve. The pump?s the same as in the kit, and I have most of the other small parts already. Either I?ll get the unit from McKeen or just get a new stock sender when I get to it.

[82DMC12]

Yeah I guess I could have. I?m on a budget and didn?t want to drop that kind of coin on that solve. The pump?s the same as in the kit, and I have most of the other small parts already. Either I?ll get the unit from McKeen or just get a new stock sender when I get to it.

You didn't mention it but you know you also need a check valve on the new feed line, too, right? DPI kit includes it.

[r00b]

Here's the V clamp you want, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=132515&pt=5816&jsn=1
Don't support DMCH, they are the worst.

This is the check valve I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q7FNFG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went through a couple garbage check valves before finding this good one.

[mwesten]

You didn't mention it but you know you also need a check valve on the new feed line, too, right? DPI kit includes it.

Yep grabbed me one of those too!

[mwesten]

Here's the V clamp you want, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=132515&pt=5816&jsn=1
Don't support DMCH, they are the worst.

This is the check valve I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q7FNFG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went through a couple garbage check valves before finding this good one.

That?s what I got. What?s weird is there seems to be a gap between the top of the pump housing and the inner metal lip on the V clamp. It may be because the clamp continues to slowly move up the outer wall of the tank opening (maybe due to it being angled slightly, I don?t know). I think it would also help if I removed the spring mechanism from the pump so that it isn?t constantly pushing upward (out of the hole).

[WHO1DMC]

That?s what I got. What?s weird is there seems to be a gap between the top of the pump housing and the inner metal lip on the V clamp. It may be because the clamp continues to slowly move up the outer wall of the tank opening (maybe due to it being angled slightly, I don?t know). I think it would also help if I removed the spring mechanism from the pump so that it isn?t constantly pushing upward (out of the hole).
The closing panel can help keep the pump firmly planted.
Once you get everything in place and tight. Put the closing panel on. The panel won't sit correctly. So you start the first few threads on each screw all the way around then you can start tightening them all up. Then there will be pressure on the pump and it won't move. You shouldn't remove the springs because that keeps the pump at the bottom of the tank.
People have cut holes or heated up the closing to form a hump so it will go on. Then some have put something in there for some down force for keeping the pump firmly planted.
These after market pumps no matter who buy them from are an exact science. There seems to be something different for all the applications. We seem to do the best we can with these things.



Dave B.

[82DMC12]

The closing panel can help keep the pump firmly planted.
Once you get everything in place and tight. Put the closing panel on. The panel won't sit correctly. So you start the first few threads on each screw all the way around then you can start tightening them all up. Then there will be pressure on the pump and it won't move. You shouldn't remove the springs because that keeps the pump at the bottom of the tank.
People have cut holes or heated up the closing to form a hump so it will go on. Then some have put something in there for some down force for keeping the pump firmly planted.
These after market pumps no matter who buy them from are an exact science. There seems to be something different for all the applications. We seem to do the best we can with these things.



Dave B.


Would be great if someone came up with a better fuel pump cover. Maybe even a flexible one, or at least just have a hump to give the pump some room so it's easier to attach the cover.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That?s what I got. What?s weird is there seems to be a gap between the top of the pump housing and the inner metal lip on the V clamp. It may be because the clamp continues to slowly move up the outer wall of the tank opening (maybe due to it being angled slightly, I don?t know). I think it would also help if I removed the spring mechanism from the pump so that it isn?t constantly pushing upward (out of the hole).

There really is no "nub" on the fuel tank to do what the V-clamp is made to do (pull it tight). But the V-clamps are very heavy metal and can squeeze it tight to hold it where it sits.

[Chris 16409]

I've put together an Install kit with all the parts you need to install the GM pump. If you only need the quick disconnects, I can sell those separately.

69454

69455

[r00b]

You're better off making your own fuel lines, use nylon. You just have to learn how to attach the quick connects to the fitting and make sure to protect the line from abrasion. Nylon will far outlast rubber hoses.

[rgehrig]

Hi
Hope someone can answer a question about this fuel pump and sender.
Does the Low Fuel Light work with either bulb or Led?

[WHO1DMC]

Hi
Hope someone can answer a question about this fuel pump and sender.
Does the Low Fuel Light work with either bulb or Led?

Yes the low fuel light can be switched to a led. Amber for best effect.



Dave B.

[dmcman73]

There really is no "nub" on the fuel tank to do what the V-clamp is made to do (pull it tight). But the V-clamps are very heavy metal and can squeeze it tight to hold it where it sits.

I've been toying with the idea of 3D printing a ring to bond to the outer portion of the fuel pump opening to give the V clamp a "nub" to hold onto.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've been toying with the idea of 3D printing a ring to bond to the outer portion of the fuel pump opening to give the V clamp a "nub" to hold onto.

I thought about it also but mine did seal tight without doing that. I tested the pump seal and OEM sender hole seal by filling the tank to the top of the fill pipe.