Ok Here We Go? Destroyed Lug Nut

[mwesten]

Got all new Hankooks to replace the 41 year old NTCs and to the surprise of nobody all lug nuts come off splendidly except for one. Rear passenger side. First, the ?shell? of the lug slipped off, which rounded the real lug underneath enough to need a 12pt or extractor. Tried both in that order to no avail. So long story short, I have a lug that?s very obliterated, too far gone for any extractor socket (I?ve tried 2 different sets and several sizes) but nothing will turn. In fact, I *think* the lug and stud have actually spun backward a hair, which makes me think the stud seating is shot.

Has anyone here drilled out your stud and if so, what bits did you find best? Carbide? Also what kind of effort is it to get the new stud in?

[David T]

Got all new Hankooks to replace the 41 year old NTCs and to the surprise of nobody all lug nuts come off splendidly except for one. Rear passenger side. First, the ?shell? of the lug slipped off, which rounded the real lug underneath enough to need a 12pt or extractor. Tried both in that order to no avail. So long story short, I have a lug that?s very obliterated, too far gone for any extractor socket (I?ve tried 2 different sets and several sizes) but nothing will turn. In fact, I *think* the lug and stud have actually spun backward a hair, which makes me think the stud seating is shot.

Has anyone here drilled out your stud and if so, what bits did you find best? Carbide? Also what kind of effort is it to get the new stud in?

Instead of buying extractors and tools that may or may not work and can be expensive, maybe go to a tire shop and have them remove the bad lug nut. At this point the stud is probably OK if you can remove the lug nut. Take what's left of the shell with you because the tire shop my actually need it to remove the lug nut. A tire shop will have tools to remove locking lug nuts and they may work. Or they may have to weld a nut to the lug and try to work it off.

[WHO1DMC]

As horrible as it might sound I think it would be cheaper and easier to torch it out from the backside. I think there's enough room for it to be possible. As much money it going to be for a decent drill bits and the time it's going to take to get through all that metal. Plus if the stud is starting to spin it may not be possible. I think a good shop should be able to do this with almost or no damage.

After all that you'll have to pull the hub to get the new stud in. Pull off the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way than pull the brake disk. There is a hefty screw that keeps the disk on the hub. Than undo the big nut and pull the hub.




Dave B.

[mwesten]

Instead of buying extractors and tools that may or may not work and can be expensive, maybe go to a tire shop and have them remove the bad lug nut. At this point the stud is probably OK if you can remove the lug nut. Take what's left of the shell with you because the tire shop my actually need it to remove the lug nut. A tire shop will have tools to remove locking lug nuts and they may work. Or they may have to weld a nut to the lug and try to work it off.

Thought of that but (and I failed to mention this in my initial post) I?m redoing the fuel and cooling system as well, so not roadworthy yet. This lug nut thing?s not the most urgent of course but figured if I can do it I will. Worst case tow.

[OverlandMan]

Instead of buying extractors and tools that may or may not work and can be expensive, maybe go to a tire shop and have them remove the bad lug nut. At this point the stud is probably OK if you can remove the lug nut. Take what's left of the shell with you because the tire shop my actually need it to remove the lug nut. A tire shop will have tools to remove locking lug nuts and they may work. Or they may have to weld a nut to the lug and try to work it off.

This is a good suggestion regarding welding a nut to the destroyed lug nut. Do you have access to a welder? I bought an inexpensive wire-fed welder years ago and while I don't use it very often, occasionally stuff like this pops up and its a nice to have tool.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm assuming the wheel is still on. In that case your really limited with what you can do since you don't want to damage the wheel. You may be able to drill into the nut on two sides and cold chisel it to break.

[mwesten]

This is a good suggestion regarding welding a nut to the destroyed lug nut. Do you have access to a welder? I bought an inexpensive wire-fed welder years ago and while I don't use it very often, occasionally stuff like this pops up and its a nice to have tool.

I have zero experience welding, but willing to try if I have to. What equipment did you get?

[mwesten]

I'm assuming the wheel is still on. In that case your really limited with what you can do since you don't want to damage the wheel. You may be able to drill into the nut on two sides and cold chisel it to break.

As of yesterday I got a hole drilled through one side of the nut. Cold chisel would do much so seems like I need to get another hole through it? need to ?flatten? a spot out so the drill bit has something to catch and not slide off of. Man this is a real beyotch.

[glockworks21]

Instead of buying extractors and tools that may or may not work and can be expensive, maybe go to a tire shop and have them remove the bad lug nut. At this point the stud is probably OK if you can remove the lug nut. Take what's left of the shell with you because the tire shop my actually need it to remove the lug nut. A tire shop will have tools to remove locking lug nuts and they may work. Or they may have to weld a nut to the lug and try to work it off.


I agree. Ive dealt with many of these. If the old tire is good enough to drive it over to a shop I would let them do it. (once you get it up and running again) If you can post a pic of how bad it is i can probably give you a good idea if a shop can remove it without drilling it out.


Dave

[OverlandMan]

I have zero experience welding, but willing to try if I have to. What equipment did you get?

I've got a Sears 120V wire-fed welder. I think it cost me a little over a hundred bucks about 12 years ago (refurbed). I picked up a cheap shield and gloves to go with it. Nothing was crazy expensive and its a good tool to have around. It might be a challenge to get something welded to that lug being recessed in the wheel. You'll probably have to go slow and be careful not to damage the wheel. I still think it's doable for a DIY-er.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've got a Sears 120V wire-fed welder. I think it cost me a little over a hundred bucks about 12 years ago (refurbed). I picked up a cheap shield and gloves to go with it. Nothing was crazy expensive and its a good tool to have around. It might be a challenge to get something welded to that lug being recessed in the wheel. You'll probably have to go slow and be careful not to damage the wheel. I still think it's doable for a DIY-er.

The problem with welding if the stud is exposed past the nut, your probably going to weld the nut to the stud.

[Helirich]

I would be against welding if it has a good wheel on it. Can?t believe you can?t split that nut. As far as bits, you can buy a diamond tip hole saw and drill through anything. The make them in 1/4? (not a typo) I?ve drilled through a busted off easy out with one. It?s nice because it is easier to start on an uneven surface than a drill point. You can buy them at Lowe?s.

[David T]

I would be against welding if it has a good wheel on it. Can?t believe you can?t split that nut. As far as bits, you can buy a diamond tip hole saw and drill through anything. The make them in 1/4? (not a typo) I?ve drilled through a busted off easy out with one. It?s nice because it is easier to start on an uneven surface than a drill point. You can buy them at Lowe?s.

I agree, welding is a last resort. And you really have to know what you are doing. For instance you do NOT want the welding current to go through the bearing!!!!!! That is why I suggested a tire shop, they will have a bunch of different sockets and removal tools they could try and most of the time they will work. If you drill or hammer you WILL damage the rim.

[mwesten]

Thanks everyone for the input. Once I get back to the car I?m going to work the cold chisels and drilling again.

[mwesten]

Ok back at the car? have more holes drilled around the perimeter of the stud (staying within the nut itself). Also managed to chisel between the stud edge and the nut to create a gap between them in one spot. I already know I?m going to need to replace the stud so am ok to sacrifice it at this point.

However I did notice that, with all of the lug nuts off (except for the very compromised nut I?m trying to remove) the wheel isn?t wobbling as wheels normally do as you remove lug nuts. Like not even in the slightest. Starting to wonder if the wheel itself is ?rust welded? to the hub, and that I?m fighting that as much as I am the lug nut.

Has anyone ever taken a pry bar to a rear wheel here to unstick it from the hub?

[glockworks21]

Ok back at the car? have more holes drilled around the perimeter of the stud (staying within the nut itself). Also managed to chisel between the stud edge and the nut to create a gap between them in one spot. I already know I?m going to need to replace the stud so am ok to sacrifice it at this point.

However I did notice that, with all of the lug nuts off (except for the very compromised nut I?m trying to remove) the wheel isn?t wobbling as wheels normally do as you remove lug nuts. Like not even in the slightest. Starting to wonder if the wheel itself is ?rust welded? to the hub, and that I?m fighting that as much as I am the lug nut.

Has anyone ever taken a pry bar to a rear wheel here to unstick it from the hub?


if one lug is seated tightly the wheel wont wobble even with the others off.
If you get the stud drilled out enough to where it is weak you may be able to pry on the wheel assembly enough to make it snap.

[dmcman73]

On another car I own, the lug was cross threaded on by a tire service station so when I went to remove my tire some time later, it would not come off and the stud just spun. What I did was install an 1/2" 19mm impact socket onto the lug and used a drill bit size that was just as large as the square 1/2" rachet hole on the back of the socket and drilled straight in stopping every now to spray some oil on the bit and into the socket. The socket kept the bit straight which allowed me to drill into the stud as well protect the rim in case the drill bit wandered. Once I was far enough down (to the base of the lug), it just broke free and I was able to remove the rim and drive out the drilled stud.

[Bitsyncmaster]

On another car I own, the lug was cross threaded on by a tire service station so when I went to remove my tire some time later, it would not come off and the stud just spun. What I did was install an 1/2" 19mm impact socket onto the lug and used a drill bit size that was just as large as the square 1/2" rachet hole on the back of the socket and drilled straight in stopping every now to spray some oil on the bit and into the socket. The socket kept the bit straight which allowed me to drill into the stud as well protect the rim in case the drill bit wandered. Once I was far enough down (to the base of the lug), it just broke free and I was able to remove the rim and drive out the drilled stud.

That is great solution.8)