Stage 1 exhaust installation questions

[TTait]

I hope to be installing my new, used stage 1 exhaust this next week (all I know is its a SS version). I had a few thoughts and questions...

It sounds like most of the systems allow the use of a Hervey aluminum heatshield using the original mounts, but perhaps not with the magnaflow - thoughts or advice here?

Do the headers use the same exhaust studs, the alternate locations, or both?

If/when I install new studs - I was wondering about protecting them long term from corrosion. Once the nuts are installed, how about coating the remaining stud in copper grease and then fitting a short length of silicon hose over the remaining section of stud - any thoughts or better suggestions?

Are the cats easily replaced? I need to pass CA emissions here, if I need replacement cats down the line, any thoughts on where to get them?

I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

Any other tips or concerns?

Tom

[SamHill]

I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

Tom

Yes, and was surprisingly easy. You don't hear that often!

[DMC5180]

I hope to be installing my new, used stage 1 exhaust this next week (all I know is its a SS version). I had a few thoughts and questions...

It sounds like most of the systems allow the use of a Hervey aluminum heatshield using the original mounts, but perhaps not with the magnaflow - thoughts or advice here?

Do the headers use the same exhaust studs, the alternate locations, or both?

If/when I install new studs - I was wondering about protecting them long term from corrosion. Once the nuts are installed, how about coating the remaining stud in copper grease and then fitting a short length of silicon hose over the remaining section of stud - any thoughts or better suggestions?

Are the cats easily replaced? I need to pass CA emissions here, if I need replacement cats down the line, any thoughts on where to get them?

I've read that the crossover pipe comes out fairly easily if I remove the passenger side drive axle temporarily - do I have that right?

Any other tips or concerns?

Tom

1. Stage I SS w/ original version muffler (Same body size as Magnaflow) has its own heat shield attached to the muffler. The Hervey shield will not fit.

2. The Manifold flanges allow the "option" to use all 24 stud locations. (Not required) The Idea was to use the extra stud locations in the event you had broken studs and did not want to mess with removing them. Using the opposite locations would suffice.
3. The replacement/new studs are steel and will rust eventually. About the only way to prevent rust from forming on the threads Is to not have exposed threads. There is a stud kit available from the UK that uses tall Brass nuts that will keep the threads covered. Brass nuts will not rust too the steel studs. The use of a silicone hose would likely melt or cook to the threads. silicone rubber is only rated to about 350 deg. High Temp Red 400-450 Deg. Exhaust gases can easily reach 1200 deg or more in our application. Turbo systems 1600 or more.

4. It would be highly unlikely that you would need Cat replacements. Those parts are not available separately. (The Stage I Kits were made as complete systems without individual spares availability). In the rare case you might need a cat you would have to cut the Cats from the pipes and weld in a replacement cat. Or see If DMCH could the manufacture make replacement components for you.

Tip : I recommend using the one piece Volvo style manifold gaskets that PJ Grady sells. They are virtually Blow-out proof.

[TTait]

Good Info, thanks.

I happen to have a really good metric specialty shop a few miles away - I'll take a new stud in and see what the longest coupling nuts they have are.

[DMC5180]

M7 x 1.00 is an uncommon size. Good luck. The ones in the UK are Custom made from Brass hex stock. Here are the options to choose from. FYI there may be one or studs that you won't be able to install Long Nuts on because of clearance issues with the pipe.

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=1473

[TTait]

Failing the coupling nuts, wouldn't copper grease and a series of stainless nuts do the same thing?

[TTait]

A little discouraged...

I've had all the exhaust apart before, but that was while doing head gaskets so I had good access from the top too. I got the car up on stands this am and went under to check the condition of the connections, spray treat the nuts, and start pulling. Seeing it just from below I decided to wait till I had access to a lift. It just looked like too much of a pain in the butt sliding around underneath wishing I could see and reach everything.

Anyone want to sell me on doing it without the lift?

When I do get it up on one, am I going to be able to get the manifolds off from below? The forward nuts on the manifolds look totally buried. Even if i get it all off from below, will the stage 1 go in without stripping out the entire top of the engine?

Unfortunately the local shop where I have free lift access bought a bunch of inventory from a competitor that went out of business and the lift is blocked indefinately.

Any idea what the "book" labor is on swapping the exhaust over is?

[Chris4099]

I installed my exhaust in my garage using nothing but jack stands. All work was done from below (I can't recall doing anything from above the engine at any point). The worst part for me was getting the cross-over pipe removed as the nuts were pretty well seized on (all but one bolt snapped off). It took lots of different socket extensions, but I was able to get to all of them from under the car. I also removed the rear tires as that helped me slide under the car at different angles for best access.

[TTait]

Well - darn - now I'm gonna have to work. I don't have the 9 bills to have DMCCA put it in for me, and you say its annoying but doable.

Mine should be easier, as everything was apart about two years ago and nothing looked terminally rusted up...

Any other tips appreciated.

T

[zimvsdib]

I purchased a used original stage 1 kit. i plan on painting it today installing it monday.


Does anyone have and advice when it comes to installation on this? I don't have any instructions just a bunch of parts, and i hope i have all the parts.

I will be without a lift for this project.

Everyone seems to say that the bolts break on them. Is there anything to spray on them to help them release better?

[David T]

The *best* way to remove old, rusted exhaust hardware it to heat it up with an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Get it to cherry red twice and as it cools you undo it. Oftentimes it helps to stop, tighten it a little and then try to undo it some more. Work slowly. The exhaust studs are not easy to get, the Delorean venders have them. P J Grady has S/S ones but they are expensive. If you are worried about taking it apart in the future use Never-Seize and/or brass nuts (if you can get them!). Be careful with the Asbestos heat shields, try to contain the dust/dirt and dispose of them properly unless you are going to reuse them. Without a lift you have to raise the car enough so you can work underneath. Don't worry about breaking any fasteners, the only ones you are reusing are the exhaust manifold studs.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The *best* way to remove old, rusted exhaust hardware it to heat it up with an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Get it to cherry red twice and as it cools you undo it. Oftentimes it helps to stop, tighten it a little and then try to undo it some more. Work slowly. The exhaust studs are not easy to get, the Delorean venders have them. P J Grady has S/S ones but they are expensive. If you are worried about taking it apart in the future use Never-Seize and/or brass nuts (if you can get them!). Be careful with the Asbestos heat shields, try to contain the dust/dirt and dispose of them properly unless you are going to reuse them. Without a lift you have to raise the car enough so you can work underneath. Don't worry about breaking any fasteners, the only ones you are reusing are the exhaust manifold studs.

Yes those studs are a little pricey but they're hardened stainless and should last the life of the rest of the car. I have a complete kit available with better nuts and gaskets as well and will have it up on our website in the next week or two.
Rob Grady

[TTait]

Once you get the old studs out the new stainless ones will sell themselves. They are excellent insurance for making sure you never have a problem again.

[zimvsdib]

Thanks guys.
Here is a pic of the parts that were included. I don't know if these are stainless studs or not.
Looks like i have 4 copper nuts for the larger bolts. Do those large bolts go into the block to support the new brackets?

It looks like this may have been hot jet coated at one time. Now its painted with an unknown silver paint.

In what order would you guys recommend installing this? Headers first then following parts second? Not sure if there is a trick to getting a good instal.
And do i need a specific gasket sealer for these parts?

3177831779317803178131782

[DMCMW Dave]

Headers first.

The 4 large nuts/bolts are for the collector - to - converter joints. Re-use the hardware on the engine (or replace if you like shiny parts).

[rileydawgg]

Is this the one that was on ebay recently?

[zimvsdib]

cool thanks!

Yeah it was. The guy wanted way too much for it but eventually made me a deal.

When I shift the section with the muffler I can hear some sediment shifting and moving around.
It doesn't sound like nuts and bolts in there but there are some small and medium sized things ratting inside.

Should I be concerned about this?
I tried to take the cats and tips off but they are on there. Almost feels like Id have to break them free with a mallet.

[rileydawgg]

I was looking at it as well. I tried asking him more about it but he never replied back so i forgot about it. Lemme know how it goes... I was curious like you if this is an install I could do myself or not.

[zimvsdib]

I was looking at it as well. I tried asking him more about it but he never replied back so i forgot about it. Lemme know how it goes... I was curious like you if this is an install I could do myself or not.

I'll let you know. It looks simple enough but I'm sure I'll have a few obstacles. I had a post "wtb a stage 1 kit used" for about 11 months here and no one had one for a fair price. I think a lot of people bought used ones from josh at dpi to horde them and try to make a profit later.

Anyway I got a fair deal on this setup.
I can tell it was Hot jet coated and becames pitted in some areas but they stopped the rust with paint.
I plan on reprinting them with por 15 or Eastwood high temp paint.
There are some instructions to cure the coat on the car I'm going to follow since I'm not sticking parts in my home oven.

[DMC5180]

I'll let you know. It looks simple enough but I'm sure I'll have a few obstacles. I had a post "wtb a stage 1 kit used" for about 11 months here and no one had one for a fair price. I think a lot of people bought used ones from josh at dpi to horde them and try to make a profit later.

Anyway I got a fair deal on this setup.
I can tell it was Hot jet coated and becames pitted in some areas but they stopped the rust with paint.
I plan on reprinting them with por 15 or Eastwood high temp paint.
There are some instructions to cure the coat on the car I'm going to follow since I'm not sticking parts in my home oven.


I'm not so sure POR 15 is a good Idea on a RED HOT application unless the manufacturer says it's rated for such applications.

The FLOWMASTER muffler that came on the early STAGE I systems is pretty tinny Brash sounding. I replaced mine with a Magnaflow 14468 (google it) polished SS muffler and I'm very happy with the exhaust note now. The magnaflow is a direct replacement fit. (pipe connections) Minus the added support hanger fingers. The body is fatter and doesn't really allow for the old heat shield. I've run mine without that shield over 10 years now with no ill effect that I can tell. FWIW the muffler is self supported and does not need the them in this exhaust system design. The factory system does though.

[delornut]

I hope to be installing my new, used stage 1 exhaust this next week (all I know is its a SS version). I had a few thoughts and questions...

I need to pass CA emissions here, if I need replacement cats down the line, any thoughts on where to get them?


Tom

The cats I've seen on most of the various exhaust kits look like pre-cats used on a number of vehicles. The last several years of the Ford Ranger we built with the 4.0 engine had pre-cats that looked exactly like those. They were installed one on each of the two pipes coming off the manifolds along with another cat installed after the exhaust blended into one pipe.

Bruce Benson

[David T]

The cats I've seen on most of the various exhaust kits look like pre-cats used on a number of vehicles. The last several years of the Ford Ranger we built with the 4.0 engine had pre-cats that looked exactly like those. They were installed one on each of the two pipes coming off the manifolds along with another cat installed after the exhaust blended into one pipe.

Bruce Benson

I would not use POR-15 on exhaust parts. It was not made for such a high temperature application. Eastwood has several products for such a use.

[Henrik]

I purchased a used original stage 1 kit. Does anyone have and advice when it comes to installation on this? I don't have any instructions just a bunch of parts, and i hope i have all the parts.


I was in a similar situation 8 years ago when I ordered my Stage I kit from DMCH. There was no parts list to make sure I had received everything so I put together the list you see in the attached Word docs. Sure enough, turns out there were a few things missing and we eventually got everything resolved.

At the time I also found a very good installation tutorial. I think I found it in a Delorean magazine. I was not able to find the softcopy so I scanned in my hardcopy.

I hope it helps.

[zimvsdib]

At the time I also found a very good installation tutorial. I think I found it in a Delorean magazine. I was not able to find the softcopy so I scanned in my hardcopy.
I hope it helps.

Henrik, thank you very much for scanning that in. It's super helpful! I areally ppreciate it. I knew there was something like that out there . If only I could find some instructions like that for doing EFI :)

I know I have to look for high temp paint, about 2000 degree protection. Por 15 does sell a high temp version, as does Eastwood, vht and krylon. I'm also checking to see if any come in a 2 part automotive style that I can use with a spray gun.

Anyone every paint these header with lasting results?

[tyb323]

Digging up this thread. Note to anyone looking to install, do NOT torque the studs to 25lbs, it will strip the studs, not sure why that article above is calling for it. But we found that tightening with a small ratchet until snug worked perfectly fine.

Also, on our installation, the muffler is not snug against the bushing on the passenger side, and on the driver's side the tailpipe is touching the cat. Do we need to push the piping farther into the muffler to correct that?

[DMC5180]

Digging up this thread. Note to anyone looking to install, do NOT torque the studs to 25lbs, it will strip the studs, not sure why that article above is calling for it. But we found that tightening with a small ratchet until snug worked perfectly fine.

Also, on our installation, the muffler is not snug against the bushing on the passenger side, and on the driver's side the tailpipe is touching the cat. Do we need to push the piping farther into the muffler to correct that?

Typical torque value for 8.8 gr M7 x 1.0 is 11 ft lbs. (zinc plated steel) Many other factors can influence torque values though.

[5875]

I bought DPI's SPEC I exhaust set-up this week. I'm super stolked to get this on the car in the spring. Reading through some previous posts, taking the old system out should be 'fun'.

Can the cross-over pipe be removed without taking the pass drive axle off? I'd rather not mess with that if possible.

[DMCMW Dave]

Can the cross-over pipe be removed without taking the pass drive axle off? I'd rather not mess with that if possible.

No.

[5875]

No.

Thanks Dave - actually maybe not :-)

[alexwolf1216]

Thanks Dave - actually maybe not :-)

Its not a hard removal. I tried to avoid taking them off, but its only a few bolts. Gives you a good chance to really inspect it too. Turns out all 4 boots were torn, so I rebuilt while they were down.

[David T]

Thanks Dave - actually maybe not :-)

Taking out the axles is a WHOLE lot easier than removing the exhaust parts. Just a lot of bolts but they should all come out easily. Don't let one end hang, you will bend the sheet metal housing that the boot clamps to. If the C/V boots are cracking it is a good time to replace them.

[5875]

Its not a hard removal. I tried to avoid taking them off, but its only a few bolts. Gives you a good chance to really inspect it too. Turns out all 4 boots were torn, so I rebuilt while they were down.

Yeah - good point. Sounds easier if it's just a few bolts!

[alexwolf1216]

Yeah - good point. Sounds easier if it's just a few bolts!

Its 12, I was being gentle :nutkick:

[5875]

Taking out the axles is a WHOLE lot easier than removing the exhaust parts. Just a lot of bolts but they should all come out easily. Don't let one end hang, you will bend the sheet metal housing that the boot clamps to. If the C/V boots are cracking it is a good time to replace them.

Both drive axles were replaced last year by PO - new CV boots, etc. But...if I need to remove it, then I guess that's the plan. I'll chalk it up to more learning this spring!

[5875]

Its 12, I was being gentle :nutkick:

LOL! No worries - can't be scared of a little work with these cars!

[DMCMW Dave]

To get the crossover out you really only need to remove the inboard end of one axle (6 bolts), slide the pipe out, and hook the axle back up. Main thing is don't let it hang by the other end.

See - things keep getting easier.

[5875]

To get the crossover out you really only need to remove the inboard end of one axle (6 bolts), slide the pipe out, and hook the axle back up. Main thing is don't let it hang by the other end.

See - things keep getting easier.

Okay Dave - perfect!

[Delorean Industries]

While not recommended the cross over absolutely can be pulled without removing either drive a axle. This was proven in front of an audience by one of my techs in Darren Deckers driveway on vin 5000 during a spec I install.

Senzzz your exhaust arrived today at the border :) included the requested extras from the old kit offering as well.

[5875]

While not recommended the cross over absolutely can be pulled without removing either drive a axle. This was proven in front of an audience by one of my techs in Darren Deckers driveway on vin 5000 during a spec I install.

Senzzz your exhaust arrived today at the border :) included the requested extras from the old kit offering as well.

Thanks Josh - amazingly fast service! Christmas just came early. You've got my attention with pulling out that cross over pipe without taking off the drive axle. Did your tech use a saws-all to shorten the pipe before pulling on it? Obviously I'm not worried about damaging the pipe to remove it. I'm all ears!

[Trstno1]

Anyway you could do a vlog about the replacement? Or at least post good pics of each stage spanning from the removal of the stock exhaust to the install of the spec 1? I will be doing this in the future as well, and would really be interested!

[vwdmc16]

I'm planning to install my stage one this January and will be doing some comparison to stock too and I will share the results. Here.

[5875]

Anyway you could do a vlog about the replacement? Or at least post good pics of each stage spanning from the removal of the stock exhaust to the install of the spec 1? I will be doing this in the future as well, and would really be interested!

Sure, I'll take some pics and post them here. My existing exhaust is not really stock though since everything was straight piped by the PO from the crossover pipe (cat and muffler removed). I'll be doing the spec I install in April.

[rileydawgg]

I'm planning to install my stage one this January and will be doing some comparison to stock too and I will share the results. Here.

Hey, was following this thread before and curious if you've done the install yet? or still planning on it?

[vwdmc16]

Hey, was following this thread before and curious if you've done the install yet? or still planning on it?


The plan was to be this weekend but im busy and actually now have an intermittent vacuum leak in my intake that needs to be repaired first, So the plan is next weekend. Its still a go!

[TTait]

Start spraying your exhaust manifold nuts with penetrant now. every day till next weekend won't hurt.

[vwdmc16]

Thanks, all the studs are new and i have spares to replace if needed. I'm looking forward to it.

[Trstno1]

Any headway on this thread?

[vwdmc16]

I got my exhaust in and I'm writing up my results of my dyno tested stage one.

[Trstno1]

I got my exhaust in and I'm writing up my results of my dyno tested stage one.

Pics please. I will be installing my stage 1 soon as well, and any tips would be awesome!

[Trstno1]

Does anyone know if you use the stock muffler brackets and heat shield with the old style stage 1 exhaust from DMC?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

You can't.
Does anyone know if you use the stock muffler brackets and heat shield with the old style stage 1 exhaust from DMC?

[Trstno1]

You can't.

Ok, so it comes with its own brackets. What about a heat shield? Does it use one?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

As I recall some skimpy little thing you might call that.

QUOTE=Trstno1;168401]Ok, so it comes with its own brackets. What about a heat shield? Does it use one?[/QUOTE]

[Trstno1]

As I recall some skimpy little thing you might call that.

QUOTE=Trstno1;168401]Ok, so it comes with its own brackets. What about a heat shield? Does it use one?[/QUOTE]

Will the aftermarket stainless heat shields available work with the exhaust setup?

[Josh]

the heat shield is much smaller. it is just a rectangle with holes in it though, not too complicated.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Probably not but I make my own stock looking ones out of high-temp ceramic board and could make a one off for you if you supplied dimensions. My board would fool a concours judge it looks so close to NOS not that it would matter in this app.




Will the aftermarket stainless heat shields available work with the exhaust setup?[/QUOTE]

[Trstno1]

Does anyone have an old DMC stage 1 heat shield they could part with? Otherwise, does anyone know of someone who sells a stainless version? I believe the dimensions are 18"x9". I just purchased a used stage 1 setup and am in need of a couple odds and ends to make the set complete.

Thanks!

[Trstno1]

Can someone with a DMC stage 1 exhaust take a picture of how they routed their starter wires through or around the header?

My fat fingers have a hard time getting to the starter in the first place, but it seems like the only way to get the wires to the starter is by fishing them through the header it's self and that doesn't seem right. Am I going to have to elongate the wires to route them around the header and away from direct contact with the header? Photos from how you guys have routed those wires would sure be a great help.

Thanks in advance

[DMC5180]

My wires are routed forward of the collector. I don't have access to my car for a couple days. No pics.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Just so you know ceramic board retards up to 2000 degree heat where as stainless steel conducts heat so which do you think is the superior heatshield?
Rob


Does anyone have an old DMC stage 1 heat shield they could part with? Otherwise, does anyone know of someone who sells a stainless version? I believe the dimensions are 18"x9". I just purchased a used stage 1 setup and am in need of a couple odds and ends to make the set complete.

Thanks!

[DMCMW Dave]

Can someone with a DMC stage 1 exhaust take a picture of how they routed their starter wires through or around the header?

My fat fingers have a hard time getting to the starter in the first place, but it seems like the only way to get the wires to the starter is by fishing them through the header it's self and that doesn't seem right. Am I going to have to elongate the wires to route them around the header and away from direct contact with the header? Photos from how you guys have routed those wires would sure be a great help.

Thanks in advance

Nothing goes through the headers. Around the alternator end.

Hard to get a good shot with the filter in the way.

33661

[Chris 16409]

33661

Dave. do you use those Mann oil filters in your shop? Do you know if they are still made in Germany?

[Trstno1]

Nothing goes through the headers. Around the alternator end.

Hard to get a good shot with the filter in the way.

33661

How do you route the two thick red wires? I don't see those in your pic anywhere. Also it looks the brown wires in your pic are touching the header. Any problems with melting there?

[DMC5180]

How do you route the two thick red wires? I don't see those in your pic anywhere. Also it looks the brown wires in your pic are touching the header. Any problems with melting there?

Brown wires do not touch. It's an optical illusion. But they are close you have to do a little wire manipulation but it all works.

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave. do you use those Mann oil filters in your shop? Do you know if they are still made in Germany?

I use what comes in from Houston.

[DMCMW Dave]

Brown wires do not touch. It's an optical illusion. But they are close you have to do a little wire manipulation but it all works.

What he said.

They do not touch, and it can all be dressed like this without extending anything. This particular car has the later engine harness on it but it doesn't make any difference.

[Trstno1]

What he said.

They do not touch, and it can all be dressed like this without extending anything. This particular car has the later engine harness on it but it doesn't make any difference.

What about the two thick red wires? Do you route them the same way as the Browns and small white? Or do you take the thick red ones around the other side then back in to the starter?

[DMCMW Dave]

What about the two thick red wires? Do you route them the same way as the Browns and small white? Or do you take the thick red ones around the other side then back in to the starter?

I don't recall them being much of an issue, the original routing should still work (behind the headers right to the solenoid). There is relatively more room back there than stock.

[dmruschell]

On a Stage 1 I recently helped install, we had to elongate the wires going to the starter. A friend of mine had the wires to his alternator touch his headers, which melted the sheathing, and caused arcing/shorting out of the electrical system. We elongated the wires while installing the Stage 1 and routed them far away from the headers to make sure that didn't happen.

[Trstno1]

I don't recall them being much of an issue, the original routing should still work (behind the headers right to the solenoid). There is relatively more room back there than stock.

Hey Dave!

I finally got my slightly used "old style" DMC stage 1 exhaust installed and it sounds great! :yesss:

However, it appears as though one of my tips were bent when the system was being shipped to me and will need to be replaced at some point. Do you guys sell replacement tips with the bends that go into the muffler for theses systems? Are the pipe diameters the same from the "old" style stage 1 kits vs. the "new"stainless stage 1 kits?


If so, I would like to purchase a set of stainless tips. Would it cost more for the tips with the DMC logo printed on it?

Thanks in advance!

[DMCMW Dave]

Hey Dave!

I finally got my slightly used "old style" DMC stage 1 exhaust installed and it sounds great! :yesss:

However, it appears as though one of my tips were bent when the system was being shipped to me and will need to be replaced at some point. Do you guys sell replacement tips with the bends that go into the muffler for theses systems? Are the pipe diameters the same from the "old" style stage 1 kits vs. the "new"stainless stage 1 kits?


If so, I would like to purchase a set of stainless tips. Would it cost more for the tips with the DMC logo printed on it?

Thanks in advance!

I don't know if they would fit, never tried. I suspect that they are "nominally" the same pipe diameter, but there is no way to tell without test-fitting them. I don't have any spare parts for them on hand. I suspect they could be ordered but it would probably be held until the next production batch.

I'd also see if you can get the old ones out of the muffler, on the non-stainless systems they tend to be welded together over time.

[Trstno1]

I don't know if they would fit, never tried. I suspect that they are "nominally" the same pipe diameter, but there is no way to tell without test-fitting them. I don't have any spare parts for them on hand. I suspect they could be ordered but it would probably be held until the next production batch.

I'd also see if you can get the old ones out of the muffler, on the non-stainless systems they tend to be welded together over time.

Yeah I was able to get them out, just looking for the replacements now. Do you know what the diameter is on the new style for the pipe? If I can't source them through anyone here, I may take them to a muffler shop and see if something can be built. Though I would really like to have the tips that have the DMC logo on them.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yeah I was able to get them out, just looking for the replacements now. Do you know what the diameter is on the new style for the pipe? If I can't source them through anyone here, I may take them to a muffler shop and see if something can be built. Though I would really like to have the tips that have the DMC logo on them.

OD is just under 2-1/2 inches.

[DMC5180]

OD is just under 2-1/2 inches.

The old system uses 2.5 OD pipes also.

[5875]

Anyway you could do a vlog about the replacement? Or at least post good pics of each stage spanning from the removal of the stock exhaust to the install of the spec 1? I will be doing this in the future as well, and would really be interested!

I know there were a few guys on this thread who were looking for a blog on my replacement. I'm midway through and you can follow the thread here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12033-DPI-SPEC-I-Exhaust-Install-5875

[Morpheus]

Digging up this thread. Note to anyone looking to install, do NOT torque the studs to 25lbs, it will strip the studs, not sure why that article above is calling for it. But we found that tightening with a small ratchet until snug worked perfectly fine.

Also, on our installation, the muffler is not snug against the bushing on the passenger side, and on the driver's side the tailpipe is touching the cat. Do we need to push the piping farther into the muffler to correct that?

I have searched for hours and not found any "official" exhaust stud torque numbers and found none until this article was posted. That article looks like it was written by DMCH, why would they say 25 LB-ft if it was incorrect?

If 25lb-ft is too much, does anyone have a suggestion for the proper torque? I'm sorry, but "tightening with a small ratchet until snug" is not very precise. I don't want to go in and re-do this because the manifold nuts weren't torqued properly.

One of the vendors want to chime in? Rob, I'm using your hardened SS studs. What torque do you use when tightening them?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I have searched for hours and not found any "official" exhaust stud torque numbers and found none until this article was posted. That article looks like it was written by DMCH, why would they say 25 LB-ft if it was incorrect?

If 25lb-ft is too much, does anyone have a suggestion for the proper torque? I'm sorry, but "tightening with a small ratchet until snug" is not very precise. I don't want to go in and re-do this because the manifold nuts weren't torqued properly.

One of the vendors want to chime in? Rob, I'm using your hardened SS studs. What torque do you use when tightening them?

15 lb-ft is about the max that the 7mm nuts can handle without stripping. I'd go with 12 to 14 to be safe but honestly I torque them by feel as I've learned over the years what seems to work best
Rob

[Morpheus]

Does that mean the 10MM nuts shouldn't be torqued to 30 lb-ft on the crossover and cat?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Does that mean the 10MM nuts shouldn't be torqued to 30 lb-ft on the crossover and cat?

No that's OK on the 10mm studs providing the studs are new or at least not rusted heavily in the cat's case. Remember cat studs can be replaced too!
Rob