Engine fires, runs, then quits immediately redux

[iflights]

Changed out my aging engine compartment fuel lines this week and used new injector seals and retainers.

Took a very methodical approach and 1st swapped lines on the passenger side. Checked for leaks by jumping the RPM relay. Started the car, and it ran beautifully. I was encouraged at this point.
Completed the drivers side, started it. Engine fires, runs for a second or two, then quits.

Found this thread and followed most of what was said. I didn't remove the air metering or perform any VOD work so some of it isn't applicable to me:https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19206-Engine-fires-runs-then-quits-immediately&highlight=replaced+lines+won%27t+start

What I've done so far:
-Eliminated RPM relay as source of issue by swapping with a known good one.
-Confirmed fuel distributor line connections are going to the expected place.
-Resistor connectors removed and reinserted.
-Don't appear to have any vacuum hoses disconnected.
-Pipe of agony is firmly inserted into chamber.

Andy (the original poster) took the approach that the fuel mixture was the culprit and was able to dial it back in to get it running.

It's hard for me to grasp that approach would be an appropriate route for me to take and I don't what to mess up what was a perfectly tuned (as perfect as possible in my car) setting.

Any advice as to move forward at this point?

Steve

[David T]

Sounds like it is only running on the Cold Start Valve (CSV). Once you stop cranking it shuts off and the motor stops because of lack of fuel. Recheck whatever you did on the driver's side. Either you hooked up something to the wrong place or you knocked something loose. Double-check the lines to the Control Pressure Regulator (CPR).

[Bitsyncmaster]

My guess is your "pipe of agony" is not seated or that O-ring seal popped out. Take the air cleaner off, put a light shining where the pipe enters and push the air plate down and look for light.

[iflights]

Thank you David and David.

It eventually started but cannot put my finger exactly why. I suspect there was not a tight connection on the resistors and contributed to the issue. I replaced the terminals with some Supco High Temp terminals and the engine no longer has a start problem. Pipe of agony was in place and sealed well. No light coming from that area so I'm eliminating that. Cold start valve electrical connector was taken off and terminals cleaned, but CSV not working would not have given me these symptoms, and I'm eliminating CSV causing any problems here.

The only other thing might have been I didn't let the fuel prime long enough to build enough pressure the morning I attempted to start.

[David T]

Thank you David and David.

It eventually started but cannot put my finger exactly why. I suspect there was not a tight connection on the resistors and contributed to the issue. I replaced the terminals with some Supco High Temp terminals and the engine no longer has a start problem. Pipe of agony was in place and sealed well. No light coming from that area so I'm eliminating that. Cold start valve electrical connector was taken off and terminals cleaned, but CSV not working would not have given me these symptoms, and I'm eliminating CSV causing any problems here.

The only other thing might have been I didn't let the fuel prime long enough to build enough pressure the morning I attempted to start.

If it was a bad connection on the ballast resistor that could explain it. Once you stopped cranking, the engine died because during cranking a wire form the starter bypasses part of the resistor and when you let go of the switch to let it go to the RUN position, that wire was not making a connection so it died. The connectors on the ballast resistor are steel and they rust causing the connections to fail.