How tight should the front shocks been the LCAs?

[jangell]

I'm installing some new KW shocks in new DeLorean Go aluminum LCAs. The part of the shock that fits into the bottom of the LCAs (as in, part the pivot bolt goes through) is about 0.5mm (give or take 0.05 mm) thinner than the LCA itself. This, leaves a small gap that will rattle as I shake the shock back and forth (the top of the stock isn't installed yet; I'm just testing the fit in the LCA). Since this is a solid aluminum LCA, it's not going to compress around the pivot as I tighten the nut on the pivot bolt or anything like that (assuming the old stamped ones would even do that in the first place).

My old shocks were tight in my old stock LCAs. Is this half a millimeter of play going to be a problem? I tried to fit a washer in there, but the gap isn't big enough for that. I'm considering ordering some 0.005" (0.13mm) (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shims/shims-for-shortening-screw-shoulders/) shims washers from McMaster-Carr to work around this. Or I could shave down the shocks with a grinder until I can fit a normal sized M12 washer in there.

The DGo site says "It is important to make sure the shocks are tight in the arms to stop any lateral movement", so I'm thinking I need to do something, but if this half millimeter isn't worth worrying about, I'll just install them as-is. This car is daily driver, so I need it to be robust.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

-- Joe

[82DMC12]

I'm installing some new KW shocks in new DeLorean Go aluminum LCAs. The part of the shock that fits into the bottom of the LCAs (as in, part the pivot bolt goes through) is about 0.5mm (give or take 0.05 mm) thinner than the LCA itself. This, leaves a small gap that will rattle as I shake the shock back and forth (the top of the stock isn't installed yet; I'm just testing the fit in the LCA). Since this is a solid aluminum LCA, it's not going to compress around the pivot as I tighten the nut on the pivot bolt or anything like that (assuming the old stamped ones would even do that in the first place).

My old shocks were tight in my old stock LCAs. Is this half a millimeter of play going to be a problem? I tried to fit a washer in there, but the gap isn't big enough for that. I'm considering ordering some 0.005" (0.13mm) (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shims/shims-for-shortening-screw-shoulders/) shims washers from McMaster-Carr to work around this. Or I could shave down the shocks with a grinder until I can fit a normal sized M12 washer in there.

The DGo site says "It is important to make sure the shocks are tight in the arms to stop any lateral movement", so I'm thinking I need to do something, but if this half millimeter isn't worth worrying about, I'll just install them as-is. This car is daily driver, so I need it to be robust.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

-- Joe

First of all, I have no experience with the D Go arms OR the KW coilovers. That being said, I think the LCA may compress over the coilover and close the gap. When I first tried to fit the DPI LCA's into the frame, there was a slight space between the two tubes of the frame mounting area. I also thought I needed a shim, but DPI said don't worry, the frame will close up around it when you torque it down, and sure enough yes it did. Perhaps the LCA-Coilover mount area will do the same?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I would think you don't want the bottom of the shock tight in the LCA. Maybe I'm thinking of something else but I would think you want to let the shock rotate on the bolt.

[Helirich]

I would think you don't want the bottom of the shock tight in the LCA. Maybe I'm thinking of something else but I would think you want to let the shock rotate on the bolt.

I would think you should have the weight on the suspension and then tighten the bolts. The rubber should not be stressed at ride height. But it should rotate enough to work. As far as squeezing aluminum, doesn?t sound to good.

[jangell]

I did order some shims; they should be here today. I don't want it to be TIGHT tight to the point that it is difficult to rotate on the pivot, but tight enough that it doesn't shift back and forth in the LCA. The stock shocks in the stock LCAs were tight in that they didn't shift laterally, but they could easily rotate with just a little friction. Right now I can slide the shock forward and backward and hear it clack as it hits the LCA -- I couldn't do that with the old setup. That's why I feel like there might be too much of a gap. But then, I don't actually know how this works from an engineering point of view, and how much it matters.

-- Joe

[Bitsyncmaster]

I would think you don't want the bottom of the shock tight in the LCA. Maybe I'm thinking of something else but I would think you want to let the shock rotate on the bolt.

OK, I was not thinking about the solid bushing that rotates in the shock. So yes that bushing should be clamped tight onto the LCA.

[todd1561]

Hey Joe! I think you were right to order some shims, I would have done the same. I don?t think you can count on those chonky aluminum LCAs to compress like the OEM stamped steel ones would.

Todd

[jangell]

I put in two 0.01" shims on each side, and that seemed to eliminate the rattle. It took around 10 minutes per side, just because the shims are so thin. I had to rest them on the very edge of the bolt, with the bolt JUST protruding into the arm, carefully slide the shock in without hitting them, then align the shims with a pick until I could get the bolt through, but it worked.

-- Joe