SPC Mustang II Adjustable Upper Control Arm Install

[81dmc]

I am installing Mustang II upper control arms from SPC. These do require reaming of steering knuckle. Upper taper is simply made to be an exact same size as the OE lower ball joint taper using your choice of 7 degree ball joint reamer. This setup is easily rebuildable and allows fine tuning for caster and camber.


SPC arms come with ball joints that are way too large, so 2x 97001 ball joints are needed.

Also, SPC arms use 5/8 ID bushings. SPC sells spacer adapters for bushings which are p/n 944505. 4 of them are needed.

Finally inner part of arm will hit frame if steel spacers between arm and frame are not used. I plan to use McMaster Carr 1/2"ID x 1"OD x 1"W spacers for forward part of arm and 1/2"ID x 1"OD x 1/2"W spacers for rear mount of arm to frame. Using 1/2"-20 x 12" bolts from McMaster to secure.

SPC Arms- 97260

Ball joints- 97001

Bushing spacers- 944505




These fit the stock 14” wheels. Will post pics once fully installed.

[powerline84]

To those reading this. This is not a Timeless Steel Garage through SPC Control arm kit. There are no mustang 2 components in my kit. My kit was designed and tested over the course of almost 2 years and is backed by SPC. This posted by this gentleman above ^^^^is not. SPC sells the real kit exclusively through me.

[81dmc]

To those reading this. This is not a Timeless Steel Garage through SPC Control arm kit. There are no mustang 2 components in my kit. My kit was designed and tested over the course of almost 2 years and is backed by SPC. This posted by this gentleman above ^^^^is not.

Did I mention you?

What is problem here?





Edit: And I first messaged you and figured you were done as I got no response. So I decided to DIY my own setup. Uses same 97001 ball joint that you use in your setup.


At the end of the day, I’m allowed to post what I want on custom setups that I run. I am not selling anything. Rather, I’m making it easy for folks to run whatever they choose.

[81dmc]

Got some parts today to do a good test fit, and it clears frame. I'm currently waiting on steering knuckles to get it all together.

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[82DMC12]

Got some parts today to do a good test fit, and it clears frame. I'm currently waiting on steering knuckles to get it all together.

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Is that spacer plate on the body original to your car? Never seen that one. I see you have an "early" VIN.

[81dmc]

Is that spacer plate on the body original to your car? Never seen that one. I see you have an "early" VIN.
That plate above upper shock bolt?

800 series vin so yeah very early.

[82DMC12]

That plate above upper shock bolt?

800 series vin so yeah very early.Hmmm you learn something new every day. The later plates don't go up the body, they are flat with a flange in the edge that follows the body contour upwards for only a centimeter.

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[82DMC12]

Here is the newer style. I had a bolt and nut in it to hold it in place while the panel bond cured. The front body bolt runs through It and goes into the shock tower.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231106/9868612ad5cb1466b92577f90c217489.jpg

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[81dmc]

Still test fitting etc. But so far, RH side is together. Clearance between forward part of control arm and rim is very close, but that could be increased by using a slightly shorter 3/4" spacer in front rather than the 1" long I have installed.

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[Dickey]

Are the ball joints that come with the SPC arms regular mustang ii ball joints?

[81dmc]

Are the ball joints that come with the SPC arms regular mustang ii ball joints?
Kind of. They are 1/2" longer and pretty thick, and it's why 97001 ball joints are required.



And note the 97001 is a smaller diameter stud and taper than the joints that come with the arms. If you drill the knuckles for the longer and thicker studs, you will have an oversized hole.


That's what happened to me. So far, I've destroyed 3 knuckles. Also, it's best to have a machine shop drill the taper larger or do it your self using a drill press. Even on a vice, it"s hard to get it straight.

Large side of taper is enlarged to about .630"

[Dickey]

Thank you. I am running NB Miata spindles which use mustang ii ball joints and am curious about alternatives that offer more adjustment than what I've currently got.

[Josh]

When testing clearance i would set the car down on the ground or load up the suspension. It may not be a concern at the different angle of the arm.

[81dmc]

It took awhile but I finally got the bushing spacers from SPC. So I inserted SPC spacer from inside to out on bushings. Rear mount has no other spacer, just the SPC adapter. Front mount has an additional 1/2" spacer with the SPC adapter. This yields even better clearance with rim.

Blue arrow is 1/2" spacer from McMaster, red arrows are the bushing adapters from SPC.

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So far, my camber is around -0.5* and caster is around +6.5*. Car drives great.

[81dmc]

I also will eventually try the entire NB Miata knuckle and spindle. Will update here when I have results.

[dmcman73]

Thank you. I am running NB Miata spindles which use mustang ii ball joints and am curious about alternatives that offer more adjustment than what I've currently got.

What did you have to do to retrofit the Miata steering knuckles and spindles besides the upper ball joint? I use a speedbox so the angle drive I don't use, my brake setup is already from the Miata and I have the SPC upper control arms with the original Mustang II ball joints and the smaller ones listed in this thread, but I have not installed them or modified my original steering knuckles.

Do the hubs have the same offset as the original?
Do you need to change the lower control arm ball joint?
Do the Delorean tie rod ends fit into the taper of the Miata steering knuckle?
Do you loose/gain steering radius?

Thanks!

[Dickey]

What did you have to do to retrofit the Miata steering knuckles and spindles besides the upper ball joint? I use a speedbox so the angle drive I don't use, my brake setup is already from the Miata and I have the SPC upper control arms with the original Mustang II ball joints and the smaller ones listed in this thread, but I have not installed them or modified my original steering knuckles.

Do the hubs have the same offset as the original?
Do you need to change the lower control arm ball joint?
Do the Delorean tie rod ends fit into the taper of the Miata steering knuckle?
Do you loose/gain steering radius?

Thanks!


I use mustang II upper ball joints for both the upper and lower ball joints. The Miata uses a standard Ford taper so the lower spindle connection fit without issue and the upper spindle opening just needed to be adjusted with a reeming tool. I cut and welded new ball joint cups for both upper and lower control arms.

I made them so the wheels sit exactly as they did with the factory stuff under there.

I used Mazda tie rod ends and retapped them to match the delorean steering rack.

There is no change in the steering characteristics of the car as best I can tell. It's been over a decade since I did the swap though and I don't remember the last time I drove a delorean that wasn't mine. Both of mine have Miata stuff up front at the moment, though the angry one may get switched over to a standard mustang II ifs because the drag racing components are more plentiful.

I wrote up most of what I did on a garage journal thread if you're curious to read more about it:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/giving-my-delorean-vd.172106/

[dmcman73]

I just completed this upgrade last week and it went perfect. I did use thicker washers I purchased from McMaster-Carr for spacers rather than the additional bushing that was listed in this thread and that worked very well. Thanks for the help with this and the written up instructions and "shopping" list!

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