Steering rack installation - advice/tips/special tools?

[nullset]

I'm ready to install the new steering rack I bought from DMC. Before I do, do I need any special tools? Anyone have experience with this that can tell me some 'gotchas' I might run in to?

Thanks,

--buddy

[sean]

Nope, pretty straight forward. Only special tool you may need is a balljoint/tie rod end remover but since the new rack comes with new tie rod ends you can pop the old ones out with a hammer. Might be a good time to do the sting column bushing if it hasnt been done yet.

[DMCNY]

I actually just pulled mine out the other day and it only took about ten minutes.

If I could offer a couple tips that may come in handy, when it came to taking the brackets off that hold the rack down, I found it easiest to start the nuts back on by a few threads and use a punch and hammer to hit the head of them lightly to tap the brackets out, as the brackets seem to want to spread a bit.

I also found it easier to make sure to remove the rubber bushings completely in order to slide the rack out. Once the intermidiate shaft and all the bushings are off I just tipped the input shaft towards the front of the car and slid it out through the drivers side.

Hope this helps.

[TTait]

Hit your steering shaft with some penetrant a couple times before you start if you can, so it collapses easier.

Inspect the collapsable cage on the steering column in the car, if you need to have it repaired or replaced now would be the time.

Careful with the pickle fork - I had one stubborn tie rod end and got a black eye when if finally popped loose and my face hit the left fender (as a true Delorean owner I was more worried about the fender at the time).

The rack comes out pretty easy but I had a hell of a time getting the bushes in position for the new one. Be prepared to step away and take a break if you need to. It was so bad that when that rack (rebuilt) turned out to be junk I paid a shop to put the second one in for me - just because of the bushes. It had to go in for alignment anyway, so I popped for the extra $100, and I would again.

Finally, be forewarned - the tie rod ends from Houston should be good, but I found the ones from Dallas to be too long. In order to get proper alignment the locking nuts had to be removed and then the tie rods had to get tack welded to the tie rods - I was NOT happy.

Tom

[David T]

Remember to completely remove the bolt from the universal joint connected to the rack from the steering column. It goes through a groove and you will not be able to remove the U joint unless the bolt is removed. If the steering column bushing needs to be replaced this is a good time to do it. Make notes on the way the brackets and rubber bushings secure the track. It is possible to assemble in the wrong order and the rack will not be in the proper position. Once the rack is out you may want to clean up and paint the frame area. When "popping" the tie rod ends always leave the nut on loose to prevent the linkage from flying around. Figure on getting a 4 wheel alignment afterwards. Make sure the steering wheel is centered when reassembling. When the car goes out to the alignment shop you should do the following first:
Correct air pressure in all 4 tires
Lubricate the 4 ball joints, spring perches, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushes
Check that the TAB's are not bent or frozen in place
Visually examine the car for any bent, damaged, or out of place parts.
Look for leaky shocks and check the mounting bushings.
The flanges on the lower control arms should not be bent.
1/2 tank of fuel and all of the junk removed from the car
The reenforcing plates are on the sway bar mounts.
David Teitelbaum

[Chris4099]

Here's a guide from DMCH on the replacement:
http://www.delorean.com/pdf/steeringrack-replacement.pdf

For me, the two worst parts were disconnecting the pinion shaft from the column as the splines were well rusted together and installing the driver side bushing. For the column, if you are lucky it will just come right off. For me, I had to spend some time slowly prying it up and off. As for the bushing, the directions above pretty much tell you what to do. For me, I sprayed it liberally with silicone lubricant and after installing it, I used a large 1.5" open ended wrench to pry/twist it into place. I liked the wrench because it was long to provide leverage, but low profile enough to fit in there and get the bushing twisted in place.

[DMCMW Dave]

One point nobody mentioned - the right hand mount has a lower plate with a tabbed notch in it just ouside of the rubber bushing. It is extremely important that the flange on the rack assembly be captured in that notch. You can see it from the right-hand end.


Finally, be forewarned - the tie rod ends from Houston should be good, but I found the ones from Dallas to be too long. In order to get proper alignment the locking nuts had to be removed and then the tie rods had to get tack welded to the tie rods - I was NOT happy.

Tom

Not to defend competetive products ;) but I've seen a few cars where, after lowering the car you "run out" of threads on the rack. This is univerally a sign that the arm on one of the knuckle castings (where the outer tie rod end attaches to the knuckle) is bent. It's amazing how far that will bend without breaking given that it's a casting. It can be bent by hitting a pothole in the road very hard.

[TTait]

Not to defend competetive products ;) but I've seen a few cars where, after lowering the car you "run out" of threads on the rack. This is universally a sign that the arm on one of the knuckle castings (where the outer tie rod end attaches to the knuckle) is bent. It's amazing how far that will bend without breaking given that it's a casting. It can be bent by hitting a pothole in the road very hard.

Good point - I didn't know that. This car is not lowered, and as to bent I don't think that's what happened here as Danny at DMCCA is the one that dealt with the issue and spot welded the parts - I would hope he knows what to look for there and I'm sure he would have told me if I needed to replace the part instead.

The original rack and tie rod ends had no problems with alignment or running out of travel, and they were on the car for some time before the swap.

That, and when I eventually called the vendor that sold me the tie rod ends he said that yes they were longer, that the threaded receiver portion of the tie rod end was deeper, and that I could take them and have them milled down a bit if I wanted to create room for the lock nut.

Perhaps that was a limited time problem and he now (or again) uses a better supplier.

I just went ahead and bought a new rack from Houston when they went on special a year or two back, someday I'll put it in one of the cars - for now it is aligned properly and there is no reason I can think of to do anything about it other than whine a little.

I will have the parts checked again the next time that car is in garden grove just to be sure.

Tom