How To: WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) rebuild kit

[nkemp]

I recently rebuilt the WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) using a rebuild kit purchased via eBay and shipped from Germany. You want the repair kit for Bosch 0438140066 Warm Up Regulator DeLorean DMC and Volvo 260 2.8. The kit I got was very complete including replacement bolts, washers and nuts and banjo bolts and crush washers. I got mine from eBay vendor Missingparts or visit their website: Repair kit for all Bosch double-diaphragm warm-up regulators / Repair Set ? missingparts (https://www.missingparts.de/products/reparaturset-fur-alle-bosch-doppel-membran-warmlaufregler-repair-set-for-all-bosch-single-membrane-warm-up-regulator)

I was going to attach the .PDF instruction from the vendor and let it explain the process ... but it is about 1 meg larger than the forum allows uploading. I've tried a number of ways to make it smaller (ziping, splitting, Adobe compressing) and nothing works. The file is locked for starters. Until a solution is found, you might try contacting the vendor for a copy or watch some YouTube videos.

Follows are my additional comments.

All said and done, this was not all that difficult. Like any project there were a couple head scratching steps because things don't go as easily as desired. Cleanliness and patience are important. The instruction PDF is pretty good but ... :

On PDF indicated page 10, where it says "Remove the steel-plate" it is missing a very important caution. In the center of the plate there is a very very tiny cup. It will fall out and end up missing if you are not aware of it. Ask me how I know this ... or simply guess how I know this. I did find mine but that was mostly divine intervention.

If you lose yours, I'm guessing that any Bosch WUR has a similar cup. You may be able to get a replacement by buying any Bosch WUR (any part number) and salvaging the missing cup. No guarantee that will work ... just guessing.


Our WUR housing is comprised of three parts as shown in the instructions. The bottom two smaller pieces did not want to separate.

Caution, inserting a screwdriver between the plates may damage the surface to the point of the two surfaces not being able to seal when reassembly.
I got mine separated using a wide blade flat screwdriver. There is a spot between one of the two ports where you can lodge the screwdriver and twist such that the pressure forces the plates apart. (Sorry no picture ...can someone add?) This released enough of the plates to create a gap that I could further separate the parts.


In our WUR, between the two bottom plates that were separate per the previous bullets, there is a fairly large spring not shown in the instructions. No big deal on disassembly, just be aware of it and the fact that it will push the parts apart.
The instructions show how to measure the exposed thread so that when you reassemble the unit it's very close to being calibrated as before. Look closely at the image, zoom in and notice that the measurement is just the threads!

I was not careful looking at the instruction's picture and measured the top of the tread to the big plate. That was a mistake. I had to reassemble the parts to the height measured and then remeasure just the exposed threads. Thus introducing potential error.


There are 4 nuts in the top of the housing that, in my case, were stuck. There are two options to get them out. The first did not work for me. The second did. I suppose either of these could fail damaging the nut's thread in which case you'll need to develop a third method to remove the nut. Here are two options:

Take the removed screw and reinsert into the nut in the direction originally installed. Gently tap the screw head to ease it out of its hole.
Put a washer on the removed screw, insert it into the nut the opposite direction as originally installed. The washer needs to be sized to clear the WUR housing. Then tighten the screw pulling the nut free. This worked really well on mine


The instructions don't mention reinstalling the big spring mentioned above. Reassembling the housing with that spring installed results in enough force that makes the reassembly difficult. It is kinda a handful. Note that when aligning the parts, the orange gasket wants to twist out of alignment. Patience is advised ... and maybe a helper. I got it without a helper.
When done there are a couple of extra parts.

Mine came with five sets of the tiny small screws, washers and nuts. Thank you to the vendor since it would be easy to lose a part or strip the threads.
There is an extra larger nut. In my WUR there is a bolt holding the Heater element in position. Evidently some WUR's have a stud instead and thus the reason for the nut.


I painted the WUR with gray engine paint. I painted the top round disc black using a small hobby brush. I sprayed some black paint into a small cap/cup I found in our recycling.


Prior to rebuilding, my car did a great job of fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes ... very embarrassing. Also it ran like shcnit ... very embarrassing. A couple minutes later when it warmed up it would run perrrfect.

After rebuilding, and without and testing or calibration, it it is 99% perfect from the start. I did notice some very very very slight indications that some calibration of the heater element location or pressure setting might improve opertion. But quiet frankly Frank, I'm not sure it is worth it unless tuning the whole system.

At this point, I'm delighted with the rebuild results.

[nkemp]

Thanks to FABombjoy for shrinking the instruction .PDF so that I can upload it.

Here is the instruction for the WUR repair/refurbish kit: 70177

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks to FABombjoy for shrinking the instruction .PDF so that I can upload it.

Here is the instruction for the WUR repair/refurbish kit: 70177It says it is a broken link on my end

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

[nkemp]

It says it is a broken link on my end

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk

I tried it and it works for me. It is a file download and takes me to Save File screen.

I recommend trying again or retrying after reloading the browser. Also, I find the PC operates weird if there are pending upgrades.. Or trying in an incognito window.

I'm not aware of what else to do about the link (anyone else having this problem?) since it works for me and I'm limited to what can be done. If the problem persists, PM me your email and I can send directly.

[iflights]

Worked for me. No problems.

[Helirich]

Is there a test for the electric heater part of the WUR? I believe mine is bad. If it is bad, am I correct in saying this kit won?t help?

[nkemp]

Is there a test for the electric heater part of the WUR? I believe mine is bad. If it is bad, am I correct in saying this kit won?t help?

There is an easy test for the heater. Using a VOM, remove the plug and measure resistance across the connector pins. If zero (open circuit) then I believe it is bad (may simply be a broken wire.) Off the top of my head, I think its resistance should measure about 20 Ohms. Actual value is less important compared to it reading zero Ohms. Note that a forum search will generate more WUR heater info.

Correct in that the kit does not fix problems of any kind relating to the heater.

If your D runs like crap for a mile or two then comes to life, then I suspect a rebuild will help. At least that was my experience.

[nkemp]

Update: Still delighted. It's days later and the improved performance of the initial drives appears to not be a fluke. I hope it continues.

Drove the car today and it's a delight to drive. And ... coincidence, cause and effect, or some other factor, the car is not hunting. RPM's are rock steady. Could it be that the poor performing WUR was a contributing factor to hunting? My car does seem to like the cooler (mid 40's here today) weather. It just seems to run better. But I'll not be able to consider the heat and humidity variables for a while.

And I noticed the grass was greener, the sky bluer, the air cleaner the men more handsome, the women more beautiful, and the breeze was always to my back. So get your WUR tuned :o

[Helirich]

There is an easy test for the heater. Using a VOM, remove the plug and measure resistance across the connector pins. If zero (open circuit) then I believe it is bad (may simply be a broken wire.) Off the top of my head, I think its resistance should measure about 20 Ohms. Actual value is less important compared to it reading zero Ohms. Note that a forum search will generate more WUR heater info.

Correct in that the kit does not fix problems of any kind relating to the heater.

If your D runs like crap for a mile or two then comes to life, then I suspect a rebuild will help. At least that was my experience.

Mine has the 20 Ohms across the pins. The issue is one of the pins is a direct short to ground. Would that be correct?

Mine runs like crap for a mile in the summer, then good. In the winter, it runs like crap for 10 miles. I have the heater unplugged because it would make a relay hot. I have allready rebuilt mine, but my kit had nothing for the heater.

[nkemp]

I don't think it should be shorted to housing ground. But housing ground probably shares the ground with the circuit via chassis common ground. So one pin should read zero as measured to chassis ground.

I've PM'd Bitsyncmaster to help with your question/problem.

Other than the ground question, you car sounds like how mine would run except it ran better earlier than 10 minutes. As I recall, engine temperature alone should bring the WUR to normal temperature a lot sooner than 10 minutes. Per usual, check that the vacuum plumbing is correct, that the inlet screen isn't blocked, that the U shaped open ended hose isn't blocked (with a bug or dirt), that the Vacuum switch with the 3 hoses operates properly. But I suspect it is the WUR needing rebuild again.

[nkemp]

I don't think it should be shorted to housing ground. But housing ground probably shares the ground with the circuit via chassis common ground. So one pin should read zero as measured to chassis ground.

I should have been more clear. The sharing chassis ground only applies if measuring with the plug installed ... A very unlikely scenario.

If unplugged, and if you are getting a short indication between a pin and the WUR body, then it is likely that the internal wiring is shorted to the case or heater assembly and that's a problem needing repair. As I recall, the wires are Teflon insulated and as such using a similar wire is advised but harder to find). An option might be using a piece of plastic adhered to the WUR's inside wall, to insulate between the exposed wire and the WUR.

But it may also be shorting to the heater assembly. Heat shrink tubing "may" be an option. I've seen slide on insulation used in products like coffee makers that can withstand heat that may be an option. But that requires taking apart broken appliances until you find it ... :-(

Time to take it apart and see what's going on.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Mine has the 20 Ohms across the pins. The issue is one of the pins is a direct short to ground. Would that be correct?

Mine runs like crap for a mile in the summer, then good. In the winter, it runs like crap for 10 miles. I have the heater unplugged because it would make a relay hot. I have allready rebuilt mine, but my kit had nothing for the heater.

The heater should not have a connection to the case. Open the cover in the WUR and you will see a wire has burned off the insulation and is touching the case. This is not a rare problem. Mine also had this problem. The wires are Teflon insulated and that insulation is very thin and wears through with vibration if it is touching the case. Move the wires from case if still intact and use some high temp silicone to hold them in place.

[nkemp]

And as I understand WUR operation, you have two unrelated issues:
1) The electrical short
2) Improper WUR operation (crappy running until the engine warms from combustion heat)

Fixing #1 will not fix #2 (unless by chance reassembly fixes the #2 fault).

[Bitsyncmaster]

And as I understand WUR operation, you have two unrelated issues:
1) The electrical short
2) Improper WUR operation (crappy running until the engine warms from combustion heat)

Fixing #1 will not fix #2 (unless by chance reassembly fixes the #2 fault).

The WUR heater power also drives the lambda relay. So that shorted WUR heater may be preventing the lambda relay from working. It also puts a heavy load on the RPM relay (fuse #7).

[nkemp]

Years ago, someone created a bunch of drawings including this one. I find them easier to read than the whole car schematic. Copied here FYI ...

[nkemp]

The WUR heater power also drives the lambda relay. So that shorted WUR heater may be preventing the lambda relay from working. It also puts a heavy load on the RPM relay (fuse #7).

Referring to the previous reply's attached diagram ...

- If it is shorted on the yellow side of the WUR resistor it should fault the #7 fuse
- If it is shorted on the ground side of the WUR resistor, doesn't it simply relocate the resistor's ground?

Or is the diagram incomplete?

[Helirich]

I should have been more clear. The sharing chassis ground only applies if measuring with the plug installed ... A very unlikely scenario.

If unplugged, and if you are getting a short indication between a pin and the WUR body, then it is likely that the internal wiring is shorted to the case or heater assembly and that's a problem needing repair. As I recall, the wires are Teflon insulated and as such using a similar wire is advised but harder to find). An option might be using a piece of plastic adhered to the WUR's inside wall, to insulate between the exposed wire and the WUR.

But it may also be shorting to the heater assembly. Heat shrink tubing "may" be an option. I've seen slide on insulation used in products like coffee makers that can withstand heat that may be an option. But that requires taking apart broken appliances until you find it ... :-(

Time to take it apart and see what's going on.

Yea, it?s measured with the plug off. I have lots of aircraft wire. It?s Teflon insulation. I guess I need to take it apart again.

It?s not really a problem with it unplugged during the summer. I have a mile of dirt road till I get to pavement. I don?t hardly push the pedal during that mile because of dust. It is usually good to go at the end. But now I have to drive on the pavement to get it warm. Very embarrassing for those first couple miles.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Referring to the previous reply's attached diagram ...

- If it is shorted on the yellow side of the WUR resistor it should fault the #7 fuse
- If it is shorted on the ground side of the WUR resistor, doesn't it simply relocate the resistor's ground?

Or is the diagram incomplete?

That fuse #7 never seems to pop. I've seen a few of the WUR heater wires burned so that fuse did not protect it. That is the reason I fused that second RPM relay output with a 3 amp fuse.

[nkemp]

Move the wires from case if still intact and use some high temp silicone to hold them in place.

This is one thing I like about the forum and DeLorean community .... learning ideas I hadn't thought of. Thanks Dave

[nkemp]

So much for the WUR & hunting theory. Today it hunts (~500 - ~1500RPM). Yesterday it was spot on. I wish I could read its mind.

[Helirich]

The heater should not have a connection to the case. Open the cover in the WUR and you will see a wire has burned off the insulation and is touching the case. This is not a rare problem. Mine also had this problem. The wires are Teflon insulated and that insulation is very thin and wears through with vibration if it is touching the case. Move the wires from case if still intact and use some high temp silicone to hold them in place.

I took it apart. Please look at this.

70186

You can see the two blue wires coming from the plug pins. The top on has two yellow wires off of it. One of them goes to a ring terminal on the bolt. That bolt goes into the case. How would that not be on purpose? Is mine wrong?

Can you verify that both of your pins are open to the case?

Edit, it appears the blue wires are just insulation over yellow wires. But it doesn’t change my ground question.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I took it apart. Please look at this.

70186

You can see the two blue wires coming from the plug pins. The top on has two yellow wires off of it. One of them goes to a ring terminal on the bolt. That bolt goes into the case. How would that not be on purpose? Is mine wrong?

Can you verify that both of your pins are open to the case?

Edit, it appears the blue wires are just insulation over yellow wires. But it doesn?t change my ground question.

I just did a resistance check on mine and your correct. One pin to the case is zero ohms and the other pin is 18 ohms. I think my original WUR was not connected to the case but the wires were burned so I replace the WUR.

Since your wires look good the connector must be wired correctly.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I looked on an old computer to see if I had a photo of the burnt WUR wiring but could not find anything. I know I posted about it but that was before DMCtalk crashed and lost all the old posts. There may be other owners photos of it since I know about 3 or 4 other owners having that problem.

[nkemp]

......... One pin to the case is zero ohms and the other pin is 18 ohms.

Begs the question why they included a ground wire.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Begs the question why they included a ground wire.

All I can think of is some WUR do not case ground. I've seen photos of units without the thermal switch not ground the case. By the way, does that thermal switch reduce the heater power or increase it when hot?

[nkemp]

All I can think of is some WUR do not case ground. I've seen photos of units without the thermal switch not ground the case. By the way, does that thermal switch reduce the heater power or increase it when hot?

Might the switch turn off the heater circuit when the engine gets warm enough? FWIW, mine is grounded to the case as well.

Seems that the circuit diagram attached above could use an update to incorporate the switch and internal connection to ground.

[nkemp]

UPDATE for those contemplating doing what I've been writing about here: In short ... no happiness at all at this point

I don't drive the D much and recently it has been running REALLY CRAPPY. When I first drove it last year after refurbishing the CPR, it was OK. Not great. Better than before, but not what it should be. I figured it needed a bit of tuning. I drove it around the neighborhood a couple times this summer and it was OK, not great. Didn't run well until it was warmed up.

A couple days ago, our group did a gathering for the Back To The Future Musical in MPLS. The car ran REALLY poor until warm. Serious mosquito fogging! Nobody wanted to be behind me in the caravan. But it ran pretty good when warm. (and likely unrelated, it's not hunting this year. Rock solid idle. Go figure)

I disassembled the upper portion, checked the disk, cleaned the filter mesh (it wasn't dirty) and reinstalled. No happiness

Today I put the pressure tester on it and it reads 70PSI'ish system pressure (good) and near zero control pressure (bad). I disassembled the bottom portion (the two thin sections). Reassembled and now the WUR/CPR runs better, similar to before. Not great. About 20psi control pressure when it was 70+'ish ( didn't have my temperature sensor so it is kinda a guess ... I'd make a poor scientist). I'm not sure what changed relative to the reassembly that caused it to work better.

A couple thoughts for those interested.

I'm not sure, but the orange gasket may have shifted (rotated) over the 3/4th year it was installed. Actually, the attached disk may have rotated twisting the gasket a bit.

When you reassemble the bottom pieces, there is a large, fairly strong spring. As the spring compresses, it twists and this causes the disk and gasket to rotate, making it hard to keep it aligned during reassembly. Might the problem be that over time, this is happening inside the unit while assembled? The disk attached to the orange gasket material rotates causing the unit to malfunction? I think I saw signs of such a situation. I wish I had greased the two ends of the spring to help reduce future movement. Note that the upgrade kit instructions does not show the big spring. The spring may be unique to a subset of CPR's (WUR) including the D's. Probably the ones with two vacuum hose connections like the D's.

Now I'm contemplating what to do and I'm leaning towards the UTCIS. FrankenCIS is more interesting but less plug and play. Plus it's somewhat a hassle getting the parts. Just the block delivered is $400+.

Bosch is an engineering marvel but being primarily a pneumatic, hydraulic system, I don't think it fairs well when not used often.

I think that refurbished units are about $500 plus your old one. So the change to the UTCIS or FrankenCIS isn't that bad and you get to keep the old WUR/CPR.

That's all for now folks.

[FABombjoy]

UTCIS did not emulate vacuum enrichment when I had one. I had to install a parallel warm-up enrichment system or my car would be undrivable for the first few minutes when cold. I raised this concern with the UTCIS people but was dismissed. Eventually they offered to reprogram the unit but I had to send it in, and with no coolant temp sensor it couldn't have worked correctly anyway.

The learning curve may be higher but FrankenCIS should be light years ahead.

[nkemp]

As I dug into this, I contacted UTCIS and as it turns out, their website was out of date. The info I got from the site was an old model ... many years old. They should have it updated by now.

The current model includes warm up enrichment. Also, the new model is a single piece, no separate control box.

What I like about the older model was that it looks like I could use the FrankenCIS controls on the UTCIS block. Why do this. So that when I f-up the drivability, I could plug the UTCIS module back in and drive without frowning.

The new model does not have a pressure sensor. And I'm not sure how they do temperature, probably built into the module. The controller is integrated into the aluminum block.

[FABombjoy]

With FrankenCIS:
-Replace the thermal vacuum valve with a coolant sensor. The standard GM sensor is even the same threading.
-Plot your CPR warm-up curve and match the original. It's linear and the specs are in the service manual, so maybe 1-2 warm up cycles at most to get it correct.
-Hook up a vac source to the accompanying Megasqurt box and add MAP-based throttle enrichment to properly handle the cold warm-up enrichment.
-T-in ignition advance hose to throttle edge like Volvo

Then down the road:
-Replace the fan switch pipe with a straight pipe. Control fans from Megasquirt. One fewer leak point and easy testing of fans from software.
-Control idle from megasquirt and tune-down the oscillation. Sell the idle computer
-Control the frequency valve from megasquirt. Further reduce idle oscillation. Sell the Jetronic computer.
-Control your fuel pump from Megasquirt and sell the fuel pump relay.

A little later:
-Install electronic injectors and sell your functioning K-jet to the highest bidder.
-Bypass and dispose of fuel accumulator

[Helirich]

So I?ve been running my Delorean with the WUR unplugged for over a year now. The reason I unplugged it is I found that it would make my rpm relay hot if it was plugged in. (I have one of Dave?s relays) What I?ve found is that it?s not all that important especially in warm weather.

When it?s 70 degrees or above, the car runs great from start to finish. If the car cools down to 55 to 70, it takes about one mile for the valve cover to heat up enough to make it run good. I generally keep it above 3,000 during that mile. After that, everything is fine. I happen to live on a dirt road that is a mile long, so by the time I get to pavement, it?s fine. If the car is colder than 55, it may take 5 to 10 minutes to warm up. I will usually run it 3-4000 rpm during this time. Since I live in Florida, it hasn?t been much of a problem.

This has got me thinking. Maybe it would be possible to install a ?choke cable? that would operate the WUR. I mean 90 percent of the time, I don?t need it. But if I had a cable that I could pull on those odd times, it would be great. I feel like the WUR is overly complicated for no reason.

Crazy idea?

[82DMC12]

So I?ve been running my Delorean with the WUR unplugged for over a year now. The reason I unplugged it is I found that it would make my rpm relay hot if it was plugged in. (I have one of Dave?s relays) What I?ve found is that it?s not all that important especially in warm weather.

When it?s 70 degrees or above, the car runs great from start to finish. If the car cools down to 55 to 70, it takes about one mile for the valve cover to heat up enough to make it run good. I generally keep it above 3,000 during that mile. After that, everything is fine. I happen to live on a dirt road that is a mile long, so by the time I get to pavement, it?s fine. If the car is colder than 55, it may take 5 to 10 minutes to warm up. I will usually run it 3-4000 rpm during this time. Since I live in Florida, it hasn?t been much of a problem.

This has got me thinking. Maybe it would be possible to install a ?choke cable? that would operate the WUR. I mean 90 percent of the time, I don?t need it. But if I had a cable that I could pull on those odd times, it would be great. I feel like the WUR is overly complicated for no reason.

Crazy idea?

What do you mean though, when you say the WUR is "unplugged"? Do you mean the grey 2-pin Bosch plug is not plugged in? Or something else is unplugged? The control pressure should be lower when the engine is cold, if the WUR plug is hooked up. The heater opens a passage that allows more fuel to return to the tank, thus lowering the control pressure. This will allow for more fuel enrichment. If you don't have the WUR plugged in, the control pressure will be closer to the hot control pressure so yes you will have worse drivability until the engine itself also warms up.

Why not just leave it plugged in? If you put the regular RPM relay back in do you have the same issue with "hot relay"?

[Bitsyncmaster]

What do you mean though, when you say the WUR is "unplugged"? Do you mean the grey 2-pin Bosch plug is not plugged in? Or something else is unplugged? The control pressure should be lower when the engine is cold, if the WUR plug is hooked up. The heater opens a passage that allows more fuel to return to the tank, thus lowering the control pressure. This will allow for more fuel enrichment. If you don't have the WUR plugged in, the control pressure will be closer to the hot control pressure so yes you will have worse drivability until the engine itself also warms up.

Why not just leave it plugged in? If you put the regular RPM relay back in do you have the same issue with "hot relay"?

I have seen a few WUR get a short to the case of the heater circuit. Mine was one of them. It does not seem to blow the #7 fuse. I would just take the bottom cover off the WUR and move the wires from rubbing on the case. Then put some RTV on them to hold them in that location.

That internal wiring is Teflon insulated which is a very thin insulation.

[Helirich]

What do you mean though, when you say the WUR is "unplugged"? Do you mean the grey 2-pin Bosch plug is not plugged in? Or something else is unplugged? The control pressure should be lower when the engine is cold, if the WUR plug is hooked up. The heater opens a passage that allows more fuel to return to the tank, thus lowering the control pressure. This will allow for more fuel enrichment. If you don't have the WUR plugged in, the control pressure will be closer to the hot control pressure so yes you will have worse drivability until the engine itself also warms up.

Why not just leave it plugged in? If you put the regular RPM relay back in do you have the same issue with "hot relay"?

Yes, I just unplug the Bosch plug. I believe there is something wrong with the electric heater or the wiring to it. I?ve thought about sending it in to be rebuilt, but I hate to not have the car during that time. Like I said, it really hasn?t been much of a problem. So much so that, I don?t really feel the need. I can?t remember how much it was to rebuild, but I think around $400. I think spending that money on something that has poor reliability vs installing some kind of push pull cable doesn?t make much sense. I always marvel at how much trouble companies will go to make something automatic or gadjety.

If I come up with something, I will post it here, but I have a lot of other projects right now. It?s not high on my list.

As far as the stock relay, I think it got hotter yet. I use to leave the cover off the fuse panel and carpet pulled back because it was so hot there. Now I pretty much have everything Dave sells and it stays cool in there. (Wood and carpet in place)

[nkemp]

Update: As indicated above, after I rebuilt it, it ran OK, not great. But it degraded fast to running really really $#!+y until warm. The second time I opened the WUR/CPR, I redid the bottom two plates (with the big spring in between) and since then it's much, much better. Probably as good as I've ever had it. Will it stay that way? Time will tell.

So, at this point I'm happy with the rebuild kit.

[nkemp]

... I?ve thought about sending it in to be rebuilt, but I hate to not have the car during that time.

Most places I've seen have you order a rebuilt unit, and then you have to send the old one back to them (or they will charge you up to a $500 core charge). So the car will not be down longer than it takes you to swap out the part.

If you are only interested in checking, and possibly repairing, the wiring, then opening the unit and checking it out is not a difficult process. Go slowly and carefully. Putting it back together does not affect calibration. It's a putzy process. Lining up the two springs and the pin may take a couple tries. Thick grease on the pin ends helps hold it in position.

Higher up in this thread are the instructions for rebuilding the unit as a PDF download. Use that document as a guide in servicing the unit. Don't separate the two thinner parts (makes it more difficult to reassemble). They are probably adhered together and would require effort to separate. Dave's recommendation for RTV is a good one. You can also use an insulating material (like Romex cable jacket) to put a spacer between the wire and the case ... assuming that's the problem.

That all said, all readers, your mechanical skills may not be up for the job and if it comes apart and does not go back together correctly, your car will not run well until warm, if then. And the rebuilt units are not inexpensive.

[The_J]

Personally I enjoy the K-jet, and I am surprised no one in the Delorean community has come up with a replacement for the rube-goldberg machine that is the WUR. I would think something digital would be more reliable. Maybe its just not worth the effort? Especially with two available units already? Unwired and FrankenCIS I mean

[Timeless]

Personally I enjoy the K-jet, and I am surprised no one in the Delorean community has come up with a replacement for the rube-goldberg machine that is the WUR. I would think something digital would be more reliable. Maybe its just not worth the effort? Especially with two available units already? Unwired and FrankenCIS I mean
NO way I'd go back to K-Jet after EFI. The car just starts every time all the time no matter what and is much more reliable. It really is a different car and runs so much better.

[nkemp]

NO way I'd go back to K-Jet after EFI. The car just starts every time all the time no matter what and is much more reliable. It really is a different car and runs so much better.

What's your EFI implementation? Engine swap or EFI the 2.8L?

[Timeless]

What's your EFI implementation? Engine swap or EFI the 2.8L?
EFI with original 2.8

[dmcman73]

EFI with original 2.8

Any info on your setup? Are you using EFI Injectors in the original bungs where the K-Jet injectors? Are you using the original intake?

[SupercoolBill]

Personally I enjoy the K-jet, and I am surprised no one in the Delorean community has come up with a replacement for the rube-goldberg machine that is the WUR. I would think something digital would be more reliable. Maybe its just not worth the effort? Especially with two available units already? Unwired and FrankenCIS I meanI may be imagining this but...I think there's a modern WUR replacement out there.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[dmcman73]

I may be imagining this but...I think there's a modern WUR replacement out there.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

There are, but there are mixed reviews on them.

[nkemp]

Any info on your setup? Are you using EFI Injectors in the original bungs where the K-Jet injectors? Are you using the original intake?

Plus 1. ?Inquiring minds want to know?

[nkemp]

There are, but there are mixed reviews on them.

If referring to the early UTCIS ... yes there was some mixed reviews. I communicated with a D shop in Germany and they have had good luck with the recent models. They supposedly work fine as programmed from the supplier. Not a cure-all. But the original WUR/CPR isn't a panacea either.