nkemp
11-18-2023, 01:13 PM
I recently rebuilt the WUR (Warm Up Regulator) CPR (Control Pressure regulator) using a rebuild kit purchased via eBay and shipped from Germany. You want the repair kit for Bosch 0438140066 Warm Up Regulator DeLorean DMC and Volvo 260 2.8. The kit I got was very complete including replacement bolts, washers and nuts and banjo bolts and crush washers. I got mine from eBay vendor Missingparts or visit their website: Repair kit for all Bosch double-diaphragm warm-up regulators / Repair Set ? missingparts (https://www.missingparts.de/products/reparaturset-fur-alle-bosch-doppel-membran-warmlaufregler-repair-set-for-all-bosch-single-membrane-warm-up-regulator)
I was going to attach the .PDF instruction from the vendor and let it explain the process ... but it is about 1 meg larger than the forum allows uploading. I've tried a number of ways to make it smaller (ziping, splitting, Adobe compressing) and nothing works. The file is locked for starters. Until a solution is found, you might try contacting the vendor for a copy or watch some YouTube videos.
Follows are my additional comments.
All said and done, this was not all that difficult. Like any project there were a couple head scratching steps because things don't go as easily as desired. Cleanliness and patience are important. The instruction PDF is pretty good but ... :
On PDF indicated page 10, where it says "Remove the steel-plate" it is missing a very important caution. In the center of the plate there is a very very tiny cup. It will fall out and end up missing if you are not aware of it. Ask me how I know this ... or simply guess how I know this. I did find mine but that was mostly divine intervention.
If you lose yours, I'm guessing that any Bosch WUR has a similar cup. You may be able to get a replacement by buying any Bosch WUR (any part number) and salvaging the missing cup. No guarantee that will work ... just guessing.
Our WUR housing is comprised of three parts as shown in the instructions. The bottom two smaller pieces did not want to separate.
Caution, inserting a screwdriver between the plates may damage the surface to the point of the two surfaces not being able to seal when reassembly.
I got mine separated using a wide blade flat screwdriver. There is a spot between one of the two ports where you can lodge the screwdriver and twist such that the pressure forces the plates apart. (Sorry no picture ...can someone add?) This released enough of the plates to create a gap that I could further separate the parts.
In our WUR, between the two bottom plates that were separate per the previous bullets, there is a fairly large spring not shown in the instructions. No big deal on disassembly, just be aware of it and the fact that it will push the parts apart.
The instructions show how to measure the exposed thread so that when you reassemble the unit it's very close to being calibrated as before. Look closely at the image, zoom in and notice that the measurement is just the threads!
I was not careful looking at the instruction's picture and measured the top of the tread to the big plate. That was a mistake. I had to reassemble the parts to the height measured and then remeasure just the exposed threads. Thus introducing potential error.
There are 4 nuts in the top of the housing that, in my case, were stuck. There are two options to get them out. The first did not work for me. The second did. I suppose either of these could fail damaging the nut's thread in which case you'll need to develop a third method to remove the nut. Here are two options:
Take the removed screw and reinsert into the nut in the direction originally installed. Gently tap the screw head to ease it out of its hole.
Put a washer on the removed screw, insert it into the nut the opposite direction as originally installed. The washer needs to be sized to clear the WUR housing. Then tighten the screw pulling the nut free. This worked really well on mine
The instructions don't mention reinstalling the big spring mentioned above. Reassembling the housing with that spring installed results in enough force that makes the reassembly difficult. It is kinda a handful. Note that when aligning the parts, the orange gasket wants to twist out of alignment. Patience is advised ... and maybe a helper. I got it without a helper.
When done there are a couple of extra parts.
Mine came with five sets of the tiny small screws, washers and nuts. Thank you to the vendor since it would be easy to lose a part or strip the threads.
There is an extra larger nut. In my WUR there is a bolt holding the Heater element in position. Evidently some WUR's have a stud instead and thus the reason for the nut.
I painted the WUR with gray engine paint. I painted the top round disc black using a small hobby brush. I sprayed some black paint into a small cap/cup I found in our recycling.
Prior to rebuilding, my car did a great job of fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes ... very embarrassing. Also it ran like shcnit ... very embarrassing. A couple minutes later when it warmed up it would run perrrfect.
After rebuilding, and without and testing or calibration, it it is 99% perfect from the start. I did notice some very very very slight indications that some calibration of the heater element location or pressure setting might improve opertion. But quiet frankly Frank, I'm not sure it is worth it unless tuning the whole system.
At this point, I'm delighted with the rebuild results.
I was going to attach the .PDF instruction from the vendor and let it explain the process ... but it is about 1 meg larger than the forum allows uploading. I've tried a number of ways to make it smaller (ziping, splitting, Adobe compressing) and nothing works. The file is locked for starters. Until a solution is found, you might try contacting the vendor for a copy or watch some YouTube videos.
Follows are my additional comments.
All said and done, this was not all that difficult. Like any project there were a couple head scratching steps because things don't go as easily as desired. Cleanliness and patience are important. The instruction PDF is pretty good but ... :
On PDF indicated page 10, where it says "Remove the steel-plate" it is missing a very important caution. In the center of the plate there is a very very tiny cup. It will fall out and end up missing if you are not aware of it. Ask me how I know this ... or simply guess how I know this. I did find mine but that was mostly divine intervention.
If you lose yours, I'm guessing that any Bosch WUR has a similar cup. You may be able to get a replacement by buying any Bosch WUR (any part number) and salvaging the missing cup. No guarantee that will work ... just guessing.
Our WUR housing is comprised of three parts as shown in the instructions. The bottom two smaller pieces did not want to separate.
Caution, inserting a screwdriver between the plates may damage the surface to the point of the two surfaces not being able to seal when reassembly.
I got mine separated using a wide blade flat screwdriver. There is a spot between one of the two ports where you can lodge the screwdriver and twist such that the pressure forces the plates apart. (Sorry no picture ...can someone add?) This released enough of the plates to create a gap that I could further separate the parts.
In our WUR, between the two bottom plates that were separate per the previous bullets, there is a fairly large spring not shown in the instructions. No big deal on disassembly, just be aware of it and the fact that it will push the parts apart.
The instructions show how to measure the exposed thread so that when you reassemble the unit it's very close to being calibrated as before. Look closely at the image, zoom in and notice that the measurement is just the threads!
I was not careful looking at the instruction's picture and measured the top of the tread to the big plate. That was a mistake. I had to reassemble the parts to the height measured and then remeasure just the exposed threads. Thus introducing potential error.
There are 4 nuts in the top of the housing that, in my case, were stuck. There are two options to get them out. The first did not work for me. The second did. I suppose either of these could fail damaging the nut's thread in which case you'll need to develop a third method to remove the nut. Here are two options:
Take the removed screw and reinsert into the nut in the direction originally installed. Gently tap the screw head to ease it out of its hole.
Put a washer on the removed screw, insert it into the nut the opposite direction as originally installed. The washer needs to be sized to clear the WUR housing. Then tighten the screw pulling the nut free. This worked really well on mine
The instructions don't mention reinstalling the big spring mentioned above. Reassembling the housing with that spring installed results in enough force that makes the reassembly difficult. It is kinda a handful. Note that when aligning the parts, the orange gasket wants to twist out of alignment. Patience is advised ... and maybe a helper. I got it without a helper.
When done there are a couple of extra parts.
Mine came with five sets of the tiny small screws, washers and nuts. Thank you to the vendor since it would be easy to lose a part or strip the threads.
There is an extra larger nut. In my WUR there is a bolt holding the Heater element in position. Evidently some WUR's have a stud instead and thus the reason for the nut.
I painted the WUR with gray engine paint. I painted the top round disc black using a small hobby brush. I sprayed some black paint into a small cap/cup I found in our recycling.
Prior to rebuilding, my car did a great job of fogging the neighborhood for mosquitoes ... very embarrassing. Also it ran like shcnit ... very embarrassing. A couple minutes later when it warmed up it would run perrrfect.
After rebuilding, and without and testing or calibration, it it is 99% perfect from the start. I did notice some very very very slight indications that some calibration of the heater element location or pressure setting might improve opertion. But quiet frankly Frank, I'm not sure it is worth it unless tuning the whole system.
At this point, I'm delighted with the rebuild results.