Engine cradle bottom plate replacement (DeloreanGo)

[TTait]

The underside of my car is pretty good, except that someone over the years tried to jack up the car using the bottom plate under the engine cradle.

https://www.deloreango.com/en/dog-bone.html

DeloreanGo sells a replacement plate. Cut the old one out and clean things up with the angle grinder. Tack in the new one, then run beads, then POR or epoxy.

Has anyone done this?

What do I not know about this - is it a good product? Too thin to work well? Too thick to weld well just from the outside? Does the engine need to be lifted off the mounts? Should Weight be on the wheels?

[Rich]

Maybe the new plate comes with instructions. Have you already asked DeLoreanGo?

Arran usually gives prompt replies by email.

email address:
[email protected]

[JBaker4981]

Powerline84 was able to weld a DGo Front Frame Extension to another buddy's frame and it ended up coming out excellent. If the quality is anything like the FFE, then I am willing to bet it'll be just fine

[dn010]

You might check your current frame to see if it is an early version where that bottom plate is riveted in certain areas. Not that you can't make the replacement plate work, but you'll need to do a little extra work locating and drilling holes in the proper places.

[JohnnyK]

Too thin to work well? Too thick to weld well just from the outside? Does the engine need to be lifted off the mounts? Should Weight be on the wheels?

It seems like a very straightforward repair if you've done automotive repair work. You're second question is a bit concerning.

(I would have to go out to the garage and take a better look at how the crossmember is affixed, but you're not removing the entire thing. Take some measurements before hand, and adjust before you weld if necessary.)

[dn010]

When I replaced this plate on my original frame, I drilled holes around the perimeter where the metal on the frame meets the plate, I put the plate on the frame and welded in the holes so they acted as spot welds. Then I welded all around the entire thing. I also made the spot weld holes in the plate where the U shaped piece of metal that the the lower control arm bolts to and also welded it from the opening to get the inside portion. I made the plate out of 1/16" steel and it lasted with no problem for over a decade, some of which included daily driving (hitting pot holes, running on salted roads, gravel roads...) when I decided to do a frame swap. It all depends on how involved you want to get with it - spot welds, no spot welds, etc. I will admit that I did the replacement with the frame out of the car.

I replaced mine due to it being rotten. It sounds great reading to just "cut off your old one" but there is a good amount of work involved removing the existing plate especially if the frame is on the car and you're lucky enough to have a lift. You will also inevitably damage the metal on the frame (warps, bends, thinning from grinding, holes/cuts/bends from chisels). If it was in good shape but had some denting from people using a jack without a cushion, I would have left it alone - no one is going to see it.