Troubleshooting of not locking (but unlocking) Driver?s side door lock mechanism

[larsmhh]

Hi!
I did not write for a long time because my Delorean worked as it should.
But last week I recognized that the Driver?s door unlocks (with the remote control) but does not lock the door.
If I lock the mechanism with the key in the driver?s door lock, I can mechanically lock the door and unlock it again using the remote control. At the passenger?s door the lock-unlock mechanism works well.
I installed the DLM/LZ/DGO Door Lock Actuators (set of 2, with 3-way connectors) from DeLorean Parts Northwest in 2021, because my original solenoids failed. Since then the system worked well.
The Door Lock Actuators from DeLorean Parts Northwest kept the original Steuermodule for the electrical control module (which was revised 5 years ago). And (as I wrote above) I have a central locking radio remote control (see picture added),
so I can lock and unlock the car. 70865

But there are a lot of relay, cables and modules now installed (and working with each other), so I don?t have a clou, where to start to search for the error.
I hope this is maybe a common fault and someone knows what to to/check or look for.
Let me already say:
Thanks in advance,

kind regards,

Lars :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

My guess is the door wiper switch position inside the door needs a little adjustment.

[larsmhh]

My guess is the door wiper switch position inside the door needs a little adjustment.

Hi David!

I?ll check this as soon as I will be home from work. Thank you for the hint!!!

[larsmhh]

David,
you were right!
It is a misalignment of the PASSENGER SIDE wiper switch.
But it is not the switch itself - the way the locking switch can move is too small, especially forward. Something of the linking mechanics is "too short" so it is too stiff to move enough into the "open" position.

70866

This is just an example-picture of which switch I am talking about (and yes: it is the driver?s side door...).

I tried to give the mechanics more way extending the rear two rods connected to the locking mechanics (one moves towards the key lock in the door and one moves to the rear door opening mechanics. I made it all worse. For a short time I was locked in the DeLorean unable to unlock and open the doors - scarifying!!!

I think there must be another rod that is connected to the lock/unlock switch and that seems to cause a too short mechanical movement.
Maybe somebody knows where to search for it.
I today only opened the door removing the upper panel. I fear I will also have to loosen the armrest!?

Happy about any suggestion (or photo)...

Thank you very much,

Lars.

[JohnnyK]

David,

But it is not the switch itself - the way the locking switch can move is too small, especially forward. Something of the linking mechanics is "too short" so it is too stiff to move enough into the "open" position.


I kind of lost the plot after what you said here, but are you aware the switch base is slotted so it can move fore and aft? This can take up the slack to the open position.

[Rich]

This is a common problem.

The locks do not work well unless both of the door latches, front and rear, are properly adjusted.

Video showing the internal door mechanisms LINK (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgOATYrwx4Q)

Video explaining the most common door latch problems and where to find the adjustment nuts LINK (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92JJQG57t1s)

And the factory tech bulletin about this LINK (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2ca5rlo7hi9p6fstmbl5z/DMC-Bulletins-Hybrid.pdf?rlkey=iycbid5ksfrcllnfe7dakcy4l&e=2&dl=0). Go to pages 57 to 61 for ST-10-8/81 for Door Latch and Lock Setting Procedure

[Bitsyncmaster]

I do remember the switch movement could use a little more "throw". If you can lengthen the actuator or shorten the rod arm on the switch somehow to get a little more throw.

[David T]

I start with the basics. You have got to get the mechanical system working well BEFORE you try to put the actuators and other electrical systems "on top" of it. Take the latches inside of the doors out, clean all of the old (over 40 years!), sticky grease off and regrease and reinstall. Now inspect the door seals. Replace if they are hard, torn, or just plain old. Check that the anchor pins slide smoothly into the latches without rubbing and both latches hit 2nd locking position simultaneously. Adjust if necessary. Go over all of the adjustment procedures and adjust as necessary. NOW you can try the electronics. Be aware, if you (or anyone) forces the door to lock when both latches of either door are not in 2nd locking position, you stretch and bend the rods and throw everything out of adjustment. Properly set up the door will not let you lock it if both latches of both doors are not in 2nd locking position but you can force it and that's when things go bad. Once you have the doors opening, closing, locking and unlocking, check that the doors will stay all the way up if you move them all the way up. You may need struts and/or a torsion bar adjustment. It can take a while and several attempts to get all of this just right, especially if you have never done it before. When working inside the door be very careful of all of the SHARP edges inside. Use some powdered graphite on the lock cylinders. Squirt a few drops of oil on the hinges and the ends of the struts. You should be able to open and close the doors with 2 fingers and never need to slam them to get them to close.

[JohnnyK]

I do remember the switch movement could use a little more "throw".

Yes, nobody seems to be reading post #4. It seems that with the lock button setup perfectly (fore and aft), there is just enough throw to engage everything.

[Elvis]

VIN 1550 is Number 435 in Germany

[larsmhh]

Hi everybody.
I wanted to give you a Status update about the repair.

I took the armrest off (which was much more easy than I thought), so I could check all the levers and pivots...
I installed the new solenoids from Toby (which are not really solenoids, are they?) which work beautifully. But they are attached with a clamp on the front locking lever. This clamp slipped and made everything to come out of balance. Everything I tried to adjust the evening before made the imbalance worse so I carefully took all levers from the mechanics, readjusted the lengths and refastened the clamp (hopefully better than before - this time using Locktite).
Especially the lever to the rear locking mechanism was warped and was some kind of scrubbing on a metal plate beside its run.

Now everything works nice and there is enough space for the wiper switch to move in both end-directions.

Thank you very much for your help!!! I did not know where to start and now the problem is already fixed :wrenchin:

Bye,

Lars.