WUR rebuild question, number help

[Andy_]

So i rebuilt my wur with a german kit, problem is im now at 3.6 bar initial control pressure. (Rises to 4.4 with rpm brown to purple and red yellow jumped )
The only issue i can see is where you have to measure how far the lip is over the diaphragm,
All other settings are shown in the instructions.
In the part of the rebuild instructions shown here;
71208
I measured with calipers 5.2mm, (sorry only pic i have of it)
71209
Which looks alott more than the instructions image.
My wur had been messed with by previous owner (lots of orange sealant between layers of wur)
What was your height value if you rebuilt your wur? Anyone know the bosch factory number?
Its an original 066 bosch delorean wur.
Doesnt look like the fuel cell / anything else has been messed with

[82DMC12]

So i rebuilt my wur with a german kit, problem is im now at 3.6 bar initial control pressure. (Rises to 4.4 with rpm brown to purple and red yellow jumped )
The only issue i can see is where you have to measure how far the lip is over the diaphragm,
All other settings are shown in the instructions.
In the part of the rebuild instructions shown here;
71208
I measured with calipers 5.2mm, (sorry only pic i have of it)
71209
Which looks alott more than the instructions image.
My wur had been messed with by previous owner (lots of orange sealant between layers of wur)
What was your height value if you rebuilt your wur? Anyone know the bosch factory number?
Its an original 066 bosch delorean wur.
Doesnt look like the fuel cell / anything else has been messed with

I know Steve Bano has some experience rebuilding these, I would reach out to him.

[FABombjoy]

I've done this a few times and would:

-Adjust it lower spec, similar to the instructions pic
-Reassemble with the sealing cap removed from the bottom of the case. Or drill a clean hole in the cap for future service.
-Reconnect everything and jumper the fuel pump, measure control pressure and adjust diaphragm screw for target pressure at service manual listed ambient temperature.
-Seal the hole, start the car and run until warm, OR provide 12v to the heater and let it warm-up, watching for changes in control pressure
-Verify control pressure is correct once fully warmed, adjust as necessary.
-Seal the adjustment hole once complete.

[Emit]

Going through this atm, I measured mine at 2.2mm, did you measure it from the top of the collar, not the plate, see the diagram. I suspect that the pdf is generic so that picture of the gap may not match with the exact version of the WUR you have.

71211

[82DMC12]

Going through this atm, I measured mine at 2.2mm, did you measure it from the top of the collar, not the plate, see the diagram. I suspect that the pdf is generic so that picture of the gap may not match with the exact version of the WUR you have.

71211


Forget about the measurement, what matters if the control pressure at the given ambient temp. Adjust it how FABombjoy said.

[Emit]

Forget about the measurement, what matters if the control pressure at the given ambient temp. Adjust it how FABombjoy said.

A word of warning about that, not all the WUR are identical internally: I contacted the guy who supplied the refurb kit regarding drilling a hole in the base cap to make it adjustable and because of my WUR/kit drilling a hole there will open up one of the chambers to atmosphere and make the WUR not work. YMMV

[82DMC12]

A word of warning about that, not all the WUR are identical internally: I contacted the guy who supplied the refurb kit regarding drilling a hole in the base cap to make it adjustable and because of my WUR/kit drilling a hole there will open up one of the chambers to atmosphere and make the WUR not work. YMMVThat's why bombjoy said to seal the hole when you're done adjusting it.

If this is too much work or confusing just buy a refurbished unit from a vendor.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[FABombjoy]

For sure, if you leave chamber open it'll run bad at cold start.

Sealing it only costs a penny and some silicone.

71213

[Emit]

For sure, if you leave chamber open it'll run bad at cold start.

Sealing it only costs a penny and some silicone.

71213

That's brilliant, I love it :D

[Andy_]

Crap. I think i measured it wrong.
I have knocked out the fuel cell a bit, and then the bottom gold cup, (havent touched the red one yet).
Ive been working from this guide, but the one in the guide increases pressure on vac, so im unsure which one to set first.
71214
71215
71216
Sorry pages are out of order. The values im going for are here;
71217
71218

Current cold pressure 0.6 bar, then blew accumulator return hose. Will get back to setting it up saturday.
Do i just go with what ive shown in the first 3 pics in this post, but aim for non vac pressure (3.4-3.8), then with vac ( 1.4-1.8), then the cold (red port) ???
Thanks in advance!

Full link to the rebuild guide im using is https://k-jet.biz/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/double_diaphragm_wur_rebuild.pdf

[cdrusn]

I was tempted to rebuild my WUR and even bought an expensive kit. Instead I sent it to DMC Texas due to their experience. It turned around in one week and was $495 plus small cost for shipping. This
solved several issues I was having.

[Andy_]

Im in the uk, tried that already.
Bought one from usa vlvparts.com .
Guy refunded me without an explanation. I assume due to
Complicated customs forms etc.

Then bought one from k-jet.biz, who also immediately refunded me.

I want to keep my original one to play with, and understand how pressures
Make a performance difference. Other companies core charges are too much.

Ps for info, i followed the full k-jet.biz tutorial, which says the diaphragm screw should be
Screwed all the way in, then back it off 3 turns. Thats how i ended up with 0.6 bar