Trailing arm bushing/bracket bolts

[seventy4burban]

Okay so somehow both bracket nuts on the passenger side (the ones that are attached to the frame, are stripped. So possible repair? Right now my only idea is cut the nuts off, weld new ones on and POR-15 the entire area. Any one have a better idea? This had to happen to cause my frame out endeavor was going so well. Trailing arm repair and new hardware was not on my shopping list but now it is.

Thanks

[Delorean Industries]

Have you covered. Sending with your current order.

[seventy4burban]

So update to this...... Driver side new bushing and stainless bracket installed torque to spec so good.

Passenger side forward bolt torque to spec but the one on the back that has the battery cable is definitely 100% stripped and will not get close to the torque.

So I'm open to options

Thanks

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[82DMC12]

So update to this...... Driver side new bushing and stainless bracket installed torque to spec so good.

Passenger side forward bolt torque to spec but the one on the back that has the battery cable is definitely 100% stripped and will not get close to the torque.

So I'm open to options

Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

You have the frame out right now, right? Seems like welding a new nut on the back is the smartest option. If you can't weld, there are mobile welders that could come out. Heck you could even ask on Nextdoor or something and see if someone will do it for beer money. And then yeah, POR 15 everything afterwards.

[82DMC12]

You could also look into:



Time Sert thread installation in the existing hole
Possibly drilling it out to 3/8" SAE and tapping the existing welded nut
Use the bad welded nut as best you can but then add a nyloc nut and split washer, or tooth washer, to the back side of the welded nut to reach torque spec


These seem to be the most reasonable options. You might not be able to weld a new nut onto the back without cutting the bracket off. You'll have to be very precise in cutting it out and then re-installation because it will have an affect on rear wheel alignment.

[seventy4burban]

Yes the frame is out and my best friend here is a welder so he is going to come look at it. He's sort of familiar and thinks he can do it, so if that's the easiest option that's probably what we're going to do.

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[82DMC12]

Yes the frame is out and my best friend here is a welder so he is going to come look at it. He's sort of familiar and thinks he can do it, so if that's the easiest option that's probably what we're going to do.

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I'd be inclined to tap it to 3/8" before trying to cut the old nut off and weld a new one one. You might have to drill out the negative battery cable terminal and the T/A bracket and bush ear slightly, but it will be fixed a lot faster and no painting required afterwards.

[seventy4burban]

You do make a compelling argument. I could go get a tap and die set right now and a 3/8 stainless bolt and nut and probably have it completely fixed

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[seventy4burban]

I mean that doesn't work. I'm right back to welding a new one on right so yeah

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[82DMC12]

You do make a compelling argument. I could go get a tap and die set right now and a 3/8 stainless bolt and nut and probably have it completely fixed

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I would use grade 8 zinc plated over stainless in this application.

[r00b]

Or a bumax stainless bolt

[Delorean Industries]

I mean that doesn't work. I'm right back to welding a new one on right so yeah

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sent you our repair system in the brake line box.

[seventy4burban]

[emoji102][emoji102]

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[dn010]

3/8 stainless bolt and nut and probably have it completely fixed

Looks like you have this covered now, but this is exactly how I repaired mine without cutting/welding etc.

[seventy4burban]

I'm dying to know what this repair kit is.....Josh can be so mysterious haha

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[seventy4burban]

Okay after a talk with Josh I went with a threaded insert repair. It got a bit scary for a few minutes but the bolt is torqued. So I'll take that as a winhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250419/3340d584180e09c3d9263746952a9ad2.jpg

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