Stuck Fuel Distributor Piston

[Bill6298]

Hello, my metering piston is stuck recessed almost entirely into the FD body. I am not able to get it unstuck from the outside but am trying to avoid taking it apart.

Has anyone ever tried setting up a fuel pump on the bench and running Techron or other fuel o-ring safe fluid through the FD to clean it up? I was thinking of capping the injector ports.

I am thinking a cleaner and pressure might help it push out but am speculating.

Thanks

Bill

[Bitsyncmaster]

Pressure may get it out. I would just try a blow gun into the inlet but make sure it can't come flying out. Just set it up about 1/4" off the table top. If it's really suck, you probably need to rebuild it anyway.

[Rich]

Link to a recent DeLorean K-Jet how-to video for this condition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJC48BBZaJg

Maybe it will help you. It involves solvents and pliers, not fuel pressure. Requires some portion of the piston being exposed in order to twist/pull on it after the solvent soak step.

The metering pin removal/cleaning segment is from 3:30 to 11:00. It looks much less difficult or risky than a full rebuild. I can't say I've needed to do this. Comments on it from the forum are welcome.

(The video is Part 1 of what's so far a two-part series. Part 2 covers rebuilding the warmup regulator.)



Hello, my metering piston is stuck recessed almost entirely into the FD body. I am not able to get it unstuck from the outside but am trying to avoid taking it apart.

Has anyone ever tried setting up a fuel pump on the bench and running Techron or other fuel o-ring safe fluid through the FD to clean it up? I was thinking of capping the injector ports.

I am thinking a cleaner and pressure might help it push out but am speculating.

Thanks

Bill

[Bill6298]

I may try some air pressure. Good idea.

I would like to find a tool that can reach the piston similar to how the person in the video removed theirs. I bought some 4 inch needle nose vice grips. But they were too thick. I can?t think of a tool that will work.

Ignore the tape measure in this picture, but you can see it?s almost fully recessed.

I appreciate the tips.

71850

[Bitsyncmaster]

I may try some air pressure. Good idea.

I would like to find a tool that can reach the piston similar to how the person in the video removed theirs. I bought some 4 inch needle nose vice grips. But they were too thick. I can?t think of a tool that will work.

Ignore the tape measure in this picture, but you can see it?s almost fully recessed.

I appreciate the tips.

71850

Don't damage the piston ground surfaces. You can't get another piston so you would need a new FD.

[Bill6298]

Don't damage the piston ground surfaces. You can't get another piston so you would need a new FD.

Yeah, I have been nervous about that. For better or worse, I am pretty sure the part sticking out actually doesn't move into the sleeve. It's that far in. I will start with air.

[David T]

Yeah, I have been nervous about that. For better or worse, I am pretty sure the part sticking out actually doesn't move into the sleeve. It's that far in. I will start with air.

Soak it in Acetone. That will break down the old gasoline and varnish. As mentioned, that piston is highly polished, if you use anything on it (vise grips, pliers, etc) you will damage the surface and then the Fuel Distributor is junk.

[Bill6298]

Soak it in Acetone. That will break down the old gasoline and varnish. As mentioned, that piston is highly polished, if you use anything on it (vise grips, pliers, etc) you will damage the surface and then the Fuel Distributor is junk.

Thanks David. Do you mean put acetone around the outside of the plunger? I assume i can't get any acetone inside the fuel distributor without eating away at the plastic screens and o-rings but really don't know.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks David. Do you mean put acetone around the outside of the plunger? I assume i can't get any acetone inside the fuel distributor without eating away at the plastic screens and o-rings but really don't know.

There are 6 O-rings inside the FD on that large center cylinder. Of course the O-rings in the PPR but that can be removed. I did not see any screens in my FD but mine is a different part number than stock.

[Bill6298]

There are 6 O-rings inside the FD on that large center cylinder. Of course the O-rings in the PPR but that can be removed. I did not see any screens in my FD but mine is a different part number than stock.

I’ve never opened mine. I may have been watching videos for different model numbers. So, it sounds like I have to be careful about the O-rings at minimum.

[dn010]

I was able to use pliers with a shop towel between the tips to loosen a stuck plunger back in my days with K-Jet. If you do open it up, make sure it is upside down when you separate it otherwise all the springs and shims will drop out of the top half if it is right-side-up. Mine did have screens inside of it.

[David T]

I was able to use pliers with a shop towel between the tips to loosen a stuck plunger back in my days with K-Jet. If you do open it up, make sure it is upside down when you separate it otherwise all the springs and shims will drop out of the top half if it is right-side-up. Mine did have screens inside of it.

Do not disassemble the fuel distributor. There is a crushable metal gasket and if you try to reuse it, it will leak. Best if you just soak the plunger but you can put the whole thing into Acetone. The gas doesn't bother the parts, Acetone won't either.

[dn010]

Do not disassemble the fuel distributor. There is a crushable metal gasket and if you try to reuse it, it will leak. Best if you just soak the plunger but you can put the whole thing into Acetone. The gas doesn't bother the parts, Acetone won't either.

I disagree, especially if the plunger cannot be removed and the thing needs to be opened anyway. I've rebuilt these without issue. The gasket just needs a thin, even coat of sealant.

Also disagree on acetone won't bother O-rings unless you're using acetone resistant o-rings. A google search will tell you why. Or, if you're bored, just submerge an o-ring into acetone and see what happens.

[Helirich]

Possibly you could try heat or cold to free it. I?ve not done this, so be careful. Mine was stuck when I got the car. I was able to move mine with a smooth jaw pliers. I never did anything after and it?s worked fine ever since.

[Bill6298]

I am trying to avoid taking it apart and using a rebuild kit. I've seen people do it well but I've also seen them to go to a reputable re-builder and continue to fail until replaced. Putting aside the question of the type of sealant used, I think there must be some variability in the replacement metal gasket and the exact contours of the mating surfaces.

It's not lost on me that I may get this unstuck and still end up a FD that is not working correctly. With everything out of the car, I am really hoping I can repeatedly run a cleaner through it, via fuel pump, that is safe for the internal parts.

I've tried heat in the past with no luck. But, I may try using a heat gun now that I have one with an accurate low temperature setting.

The part where I could grab it with pliers isn't the surface that slides in and out fortunately. But unfortunately, that is the tapered part of the piston where gripping is difficult. At this point I don't think I could damage the piston because it's too far recessed inside the FD.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Putting aside the question of the type of sealant used, I think there must be some variability in the replacement metal gasket and the exact contours of the mating surfaces.

You want just a light "smear" of sealer. They almost seal without any since the surfaces are so perfect. The metal plate is made of stainless steel and does not crush. If it's not damaged it will work fine.

[Rich]

Based on that photo you have something to play with if you get the right tool to grab the pin and if the solvent will loosen enough of the "rust" in there.

A. Give the solvent plenty of time, like overnight.

B. There may be enough of what looks like a non-critical cylindrical segment of the pin beyond the conical end section of it for you to get hold of with a smaller, more pointed needlenose pliers. Anything like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Cffuvros-Stainless-Precision-Cutters-Jewelry/dp/B0FLQ1D9XF/ref=collections_p_dtp_xnewarr_ssruni_d_sccl_1_3/136-6771180-7095914?pd_rd_w=qqcEM&content-id=amzn1.sym.a43df92a-7409-410b-8cae-8c2277099d6d&pf_rd_p=a43df92a-7409-410b-8cae-8c2277099d6d&pf_rd_r=J78JJA2H2A86NRZF7F8B&pd_rd_wg=4TtJ3&pd_rd_r=91476ed3-832e-4d97-9927-dd767bc4e0b5&pd_rd_i=B0FLQ1D9XF&psc=1). Alternatively you could make a regular needlenose fit into that gap by using a metal file or a grinding wheel on the outside tips of both jaws so they clear the FD bore. Be very sure not to score the inside of the FD bore with whatever you push in there to twist or pull out the pin.


I am trying to avoid taking it apart and using a rebuild kit.

The part where I could grab it with pliers isn't the surface that slides in and out fortunately. But unfortunately, that is the tapered part of the piston where gripping is difficult. At this point I don't think I could damage the piston because it's too far recessed inside the FD.

[SupercoolBill]

I was able to use pliers with a shop towel between the tips to loosen a stuck plunger back in my days with K-Jet. If you do open it up, make sure it is upside down when you separate it otherwise all the springs and shims will drop out of the top half if it is right-side-up. Mine did have screens inside of it.Yup I made that mistake (opened the wrong way).

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[SupercoolBill]

I have "good" FD sitting on my bench right now. The piston was free when I bought it but then a year later I found it stuck. I have tried Kroil, I modified some small needle nose pliers to fit in there, I even used g-force to try to get it to move. I drilled a hole in a 2x4, strapped the FD onto it with a hose clamp, and slammed the thing onto my heavy metal work bench over and over. It didn't budge. So frustrating. It worked mint before the piston got stuck. I even painted it with some fuel proof paint. Ugh...

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[Bill6298]

I have "good" FD sitting on my bench right now. The piston was free when I bought it but then a year later I found it stuck. I have tried Kroil, I modified some small needle nose pliers to fit in there, I even used g-force to try to get it to move. I drilled a hole in a 2x4, strapped the FD onto it with a hose clamp, and slammed the thing onto my heavy metal work bench over and over. It didn't budge. So frustrating. It worked mint before the piston got stuck. I even painted it with some fuel proof paint. Ugh...

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Is yours stuck all the way in?

I am planning to buy some solid bolts this week so I can cap off all of the ports other than the fuel supply and return. Hopefully an hour of pressure and a techron will free mine up.

[Chris 16409]

Are you opposed to having it rebuilt? I use a specialty shop in CA.

[DMC-Ron]

Are you opposed to having it rebuilt? I use a specialty shop in CA.

Chris,
Curious, what's the typical cost for a rebuild at your specialty shop?
Ron

[SupercoolBill]

Is yours stuck all the way in?

I am planning to buy some solid bolts this week so I can cap off all of the ports other than the fuel supply and return. Hopefully an hour of pressure and a techron will free mine up.Well let us know if it works. I already have bolts to plug the ports with.
Its so frustrating to think im going to have to spend so much money when there is nothing wrong other than the piston is stuck.

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[Bill6298]

Are you opposed to having it rebuilt? I use a specialty shop in CA.

Not necessarily but I am skeptical all fuel distributors can be rebuilt without leaks. There's a re-builder in Alabama that is supposed to be reputable but I saw one guy's experience where they had to rebuild it 2-3 times and it still leaked. Eventually they gave him a different fuel distributor. That one was fine. No leaks.

I would like to know what sealant any re-builder would be using. My research says the Indian Shellac might be the most effective but could be very difficult to take apart again, if you had a leak.

I've read the re-builder in Australia does not apply sealant by hand but instead has a machine that applies it to precise locations and at a specific thickness.

[SupercoolBill]

Not necessarily but I am skeptical all fuel distributors can be rebuilt without leaks. There's a re-builder in Alabama that is supposed to be reputable but I saw one guy's experience where they had to rebuild it 2-3 times and it still leaked. Eventually they gave him a different fuel distributor. That one was fine. No leaks.

I would like to know what sealant any re-builder would be using. My research says the Indian Shellac might be the most effective but could be very difficult to take apart again, if you had a leak.

I've read the re-builder in Australia does not apply sealant by hand but instead has a machine that applies it to precise locations and at a specific thickness.I rebuilt the FD that is currently on our car. It works and doesn't leak but the fuel flow isn't exactly the same on all injectors and the injectors are brand new. That is my fault though because when I was taking the FD apart it was all new territory for me and all the shims and springs spilled out. So I had to guess where they should be installed when I put it back together.
FDs suck. Its ridiculous what it costs to have one rebuilt yet if you do it yourself and mess it up the consequences are really bad.
I will probably never try to rebuild one again unless maybe it is a spare or something.
I know the one I have not on the car worked fine a few years ago so if I could just free up the piston I am quite sure ill have a good FD. Someone just needs to figure out a trick for getting the piston to move. What about threading a zerk fitting into an adapter on a port then pump grease in till the pressure pushes it out. Then rinse really good with gas?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Not necessarily but I am skeptical all fuel distributors can be rebuilt without leaks. There's a re-builder in Alabama that is supposed to be reputable but I saw one guy's experience where they had to rebuild it 2-3 times and it still leaked. Eventually they gave him a different fuel distributor. That one was fine. No leaks.

I would like to know what sealant any re-builder would be using. My research says the Indian Shellac might be the most effective but could be very difficult to take apart again, if you had a leak.

I've read the re-builder in Australia does not apply sealant by hand but instead has a machine that applies it to precise locations and at a specific thickness.

I used the thinnest film of Permatex #2 form a gasket smeared on with my finger. Have no leaks. I would think a spray could even get a thinner coat. You would have to do something like tape to keep it off the small hole and where the spring valves are. I think Shellac would go on to thick.

[SupercoolBill]

From my restoration thread.
Apparently I got the piston to free up on my original FD but still took it apart for some reason.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251112/11a892cdaeaa52b0c534d252e2759fc5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251112/3197d2b26e97191b92fabed6af16157b.jpg

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[Bill6298]

[QUOTE=SupercoolBill;284054]What about threading a zerk fitting into an adapter on a port then pump grease in till the pressure pushes it out. Then rinse really good with gas?

For using pressure internally, I guess our options are pressurized air, using a standard CIS pressure fuel pump and some o-ring safe fluid, or grease. I've thought about Marvel Mystery oil because it claims to be safe in fuel tanks. At least I could run that continuously and filter it.

Maybe grease will have more impact especially if you're using more pressure than a fuel pump? I would have to give consideration to too much pressure damaging something inside as well as the clean up process.

[Helirich]

I think the pressurized solvent should help. I still would think about heat. Maybe a hairdryer.

[dn010]

My research says the Indian Shellac might be the most effective but could be very difficult to take apart again, if you had a leak.


I am one who used Indian Head Shellac on my rebuilds and had 0 issue. I don't think the issue is difficulty taking it apart again, I think it is more like it is difficult to clean it off the gasket should you need to take it apart again, sometimes requiring a new gasket. Acetone works great on shellac though.

[dn010]

I think the pressurized solvent should help. I still would think about heat. Maybe a hairdryer.

You can heat up the distributor with a heat gun or put it in an oven and then hit the stuck piston/plunger with an aerosol duster to rapidly cool/freeze it to contract and then try to remove it.

[SupercoolBill]

You can heat up the distributor with a heat gun or put it in an oven and then hit the stuck piston/plunger with an aerosol duster to rapidly cool/freeze it to contract and then try to remove it.Hey I like this idea. I have an oven in my shop and jugs of refrigerant too.
How hot do you think I could safely heat it?

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[David T]

Hey I like this idea. I have an oven in my shop and jugs of refrigerant too.
How hot do you think I could safely heat it?

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Not a lot, there are springs and "O" rings inside that will be damaged if you heat it too much. I would say anything over 220 degrees F (the temperature of a running motor) and you are risking internal damage. The plunger is only stuck because of the gummed up old fuel. Use Brakclean, Acetone, Berryman's, something to break down the sludge holding the plunger. if you don't want to soak the whole thing then just dribble some solvent around the plunger and let it soak in.

[Bill6298]

I am one who used Indian Head Shellac on my rebuilds and had 0 issue. I don't think the issue is difficulty taking it apart again, I think it is more like it is difficult to clean it off the gasket should you need to take it apart again, sometimes requiring a new gasket. Acetone works great on shellac though.

Glad to hear this. Since I assume I can't really buy another FD, this is my plan if everything else fails.

Dave S from DMCMW told me to me put my FD in the oven at 200F. I can't remember if I actually did this or not. I don't think I was able to actually keep the oven under 200F and gave up.

I tried a heat gun but likely far too low and not enough time because I was worried about exactly what David T mentioned. I am going to confirm I can really output 200F (and no more) and try that again. I finally bought a small butane heat gun with a variety of adjustment.

[dn010]

Glad to hear this. Since I assume I can't really buy another FD, this is my plan if everything else fails.


This is what I went by for rebuild guidance (not pressure / testing info) long, long ago:
https://marekv.ee/MB/CIS/files/CISRebuild.pdf

I will reiterate that it is very important to open it when it's upside down so the springs and shims stay in place. The failure for the ones I rebuilt were mushy, cracked orings in or on the barrel, not dirt, debris or varnish.

As for heat, I would only go as high as the engine running temp. You don't need to worry about melting orings since you'll replace them anyway. What you do need to worry about is melting any plastic screens if your distributor has them.

[Bill6298]

This is what I went by for rebuild guidance (not pressure / testing info) long, long ago:
https://marekv.ee/MB/CIS/files/CISRebuild.pdf

I will reiterate that it is very important to open it when it's upside down so the springs and shims stay in place. The failure for the ones I rebuilt were mushy, cracked orings in or on the barrel, not dirt, debris or varnish.

Thanks. I'll keep this in mind during my time off during Thanksgiving weekend. Hopefully this weekend I can try my other alternatives and rule them in or out.

[SupercoolBill]

Not a lot, there are springs and "O" rings inside that will be damaged if you heat it too much. I would say anything over 220 degrees F (the temperature of a running motor) and you are risking internal damage. The plunger is only stuck because of the gummed up old fuel. Use Brakclean, Acetone, Berryman's, something to break down the sludge holding the plunger. if you don't want to soak the whole thing then just dribble some solvent around the plunger and let it soak in.Been soaking it with kroil for a year.
Worried about eating the rubber with cleaners like that.

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[Bill6298]

Been soaking it with kroil for a year.
Worried about eating the rubber with cleaners like that.

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Exactly. ... and it could all be pointless. We may unstick these two fuel distributors only find out they don't perform well due to a disintegrated o-ring, like mentioned earlier in an earlier post.

It is a shame there's no alternative fuel distributor that can be swapped in. I believe some of these CIS variants lasted until the early 1990s.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave S from DMCMW told me to me put my FD in the oven at 200F. I can't remember if I actually did this or not. I don't think I was able to actually keep the oven under 200F and gave up.

I've run across the need for a low temp oven for many things. I ended up building one that can hold temp anywhere from room temp to 250 def/f. It can maintain the set temp +/- 0.8 deg/f after it has warmed up.

[Bill6298]

I've run across the need for a low temp oven for many things. I ended up building one that can hold temp anywhere from room temp to 250 def/f. It can maintain the set temp +/- 0.8 deg/f after it has warmed up.

That?s very interesting. Did you use the heating element from a space heater or something else?

[dn010]

It is a shame there's no alternative fuel distributor that can be swapped in. I believe some of these CIS variants lasted until the early 1990s.

There are. I can't remember what Volvo it was from but I ran one that had adjusting with screws on each outlet that went to each cylinder (I also ran the volvo WUR too without an issue). I would have to find my books and notes from back then to figure out what it was. There are plenty of B28(0) engines that had them. This will spark the argument that each version was specific to that vehicle. Whatever, it still worked. It doesn't really matter though because they are ALL expensive now no matter which flavor you get.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That?s very interesting. Did you use the heating element from a space heater or something else?

I rewired the elements in series to get less power. If I'm setting real low temps, I power the oven through a diode which cuts the power even more.

[SupercoolBill]

Exactly. ... and it could all be pointless. We may unstick these two fuel distributors only find out they don't perform well due to a disintegrated o-ring, like mentioned earlier in an earlier post.

It is a shame there's no alternative fuel distributor that can be swapped in. I believe some of these CIS variants lasted until the early 1990s.You'd think so but when I popped open the FD that was on our car, which had sat in a barn for around 20 years, everything inside was still in great shape.
Of course this would have been before ethanol fuel was common.

The fuel pump and fuel pump lines on the other hand....a gooey mess.

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[David T]

The profile of the plunger, the size of the ports, the setting of the Primary Pressure Regulator, all vary depending on the application. The part numbers are very specific. While they are all similar, they are different. While a "different" one may work, because it is not the "correct" one, you may have bad fuel mileage, excessive emissions, poor performance, etc. Same problem with the fuel injectors and other parts of the fuel system. Because of the unavailability of obtaining the "correct" parts, it is a problem we will all face eventually. To make things worse, some parts are not made as well as the originals, rebuilds are not always done well, and so on. One of the many problems owners of classic cars face. Just a good reason to take care of the parts you do have and when you need service it is better to fix your old part then to take a chance on a new or rebuilt part of possibly dubious quality.

[Bill6298]

Just a good reason to take care of the parts you do have and when you need service it is better to fix your old part then to take a chance on a new or rebuilt part of possibly dubious quality.

This is my lesson. I found pictures where my fuel distributor plunger was actually stuck out and not recessed all the way in. I have no idea how I ended up pushing it all the way in or if it happened when I had it stored. Had I taken care of this correctly I would not be in the current situation.

[dn010]

The profile of the plunger, the size of the ports, the setting of the Primary Pressure Regulator, all vary depending on the application. The part numbers are very specific. While they are all similar, they are different. While a "different" one may work, because it is not the "correct" one, you may have bad fuel mileage, excessive emissions, poor performance, etc. Same problem with the fuel injectors and other parts of the fuel system. Because of the unavailability of obtaining the "correct" parts, it is a problem we will all face eventually. To make things worse, some parts are not made as well as the originals, rebuilds are not always done well, and so on. One of the many problems owners of classic cars face. Just a good reason to take care of the parts you do have and when you need service it is better to fix your old part then to take a chance on a new or rebuilt part of possibly dubious quality.

While you "should" stay with the 109, lots of people are running 105's and 076's without a problem. Hint: you can adjust the PPR.

Edit: Also, some of the vendors are selling 105's and 076's as replacements.

[Bitsyncmaster]

While you "should" stay with the 109, lots of people are running 105's and 076's without a problem. Hint: you can adjust the PPR.

Edit: Also, some of the vendors are selling 105's and 076's as replacements.

My car has the 076 with adjustable flow for each cylinder. The newer 076 units are not adjustable. Mine has been on the car since I bought it 20 years ago.

[SupercoolBill]

Okay I thought of another idea for these pesky pistons. The biggest issue with pulling the piston out is that there is no good was to get ahold of it and really pull hard enough to break it free. What about a small braided cable with a loop on the end. Slip it over the tip of the piston, attach something with mass to the other of the cable, lock the FD down somehow, use the cable with the mass as an inertia based tool kind of like a slide hammer.
You'd just have to figure out a way to guard the piston from just flying out and getting damaged.
Im picturing a 2x6 with a hole drilled in it large enough for the boss of the FD to set down into. Put the 2x6 between two saw horses, put a moving blanket on the floor, Hook the cable to the piston with a weight attached to the other end if the cable. Lift the weight and let it free fall. Do this repeatedly until the piston pulls out.
I suppose the cable may just slip off the piston.
More risky but tack weld a small metal strip to the side of the tip of the piston. Clamp on vise grips on a slide hammer. After pistons is out grind the welds off.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Okay I thought of another idea for these pesky pistons. The biggest issue with pulling the piston out is that there is no good was to get ahold of it and really pull hard enough to break it free. What about a small braided cable with a loop on the end. Slip it over the tip of the piston, attach something with mass to the other of the cable, lock the FD down somehow, use the cable with the mass as an inertia based tool kind of like a slide hammer.
You'd just have to figure out a way to guard the piston from just flying out and getting damaged.
Im picturing a 2x6 with a hole drilled in it large enough for the boss of the FD to set down into. Put the 2x6 between two saw horses, put a moving blanket on the floor, Hook the cable to the piston with a weight attached to the other end if the cable. Lift the weight and let it free fall. Do this repeatedly until the piston pulls out.
I suppose the cable may just slip off the piston.
More risky but tack weld a small metal strip to the side of the tip of the piston. Clamp on vise grips on a slide hammer. After pistons is out grind the welds off.

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Just a thought. Maybe a soldering iron or soldering gun could heat the piston and break the seal. Put some solder on the iron tip to conduct the heat to the piston.

[Bill6298]

While you "should" stay with the 109, lots of people are running 105's and 076's without a problem. Hint: you can adjust the PPR.

Edit: Also, some of the vendors are selling 105's and 076's as replacements.

Just curious, which vendors are selling replacements? if it came to that, would be good to know.

[Bill6298]

Okay I thought of another idea for these pesky pistons. The biggest issue with pulling the piston out is that there is no good was to get ahold of it and really pull hard enough to break it free.


Just a thought. Maybe a soldering iron or soldering gun could heat the piston and break the seal. Put some solder on the iron tip to conduct the heat to the piston.

I will try these methods and report back. Thanks

[dn010]

DPI, D-Go both sell replacements.

[Helirich]

Just a thought. Maybe a soldering iron or soldering gun could heat the piston and break the seal. Put some solder on the iron tip to conduct the heat to the piston.

I would think the opposite would be better. If you could heat the housing with a heat gun and put some dry ice on the piston.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I would think the opposite would be better. If you could heat the housing with a heat gun and put some dry ice on the piston.

In theory yes, but that can't be done. Even using a cooling spray would only cool the top of the piston.