Replacing shift linkage rubber bushings - how difficult?

[sweetp01569]

I recently bought the manual shift linkage bushing kit from DMC and may tackle the job this weekend. My linkage rattles and vibrates and sometimes need to grab the shift knob to quiet the noise down! lol I expect the rubber bushings are shot!

I have viewed this process posted in another thread, https://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2013/05/smooth-shifting-on-30-year-old-car.html, and it seems pretty straightforward. I wanted to confirm that I'll need to get my hands, and wrench, into the frame opening from underneath to change the bushings on the bellcrank, correct? Is it difficult to do that? Also, for the bushing under the shifter, do I just release the clevis pin and crossgate cable, then remove the 4 screws holding the shifter in place and lift that up? I just want to make sure there are no surprises or special difficulties doing this job. Thank you!

[ssdelorean]

Yes, bellcrank can be accessed from under the car. Fairly easy, just a little awkward bending hands to get in there. My bushing was totally missing and replaced this past fall. Took more time jacking up the car than to replace bushings.

I cannot speak to your other question. Never took that apart or adjusted yet.

[dn010]

Removing the shifter is pretty straight forward. I recall one problem I had was trying to get the shift cable to disengage from the shifting mechanism, I had to unscrew the cable from the frame and pull it back in order to get enough room. If you find you need to do this, this does not change the adjustment although with new bushings you may need to readjust it anyway. Check your pivot bolt for wear or damage, it's no fun if it breaks and you're far from home.

[sweetp01569]

Thanks for the responses! I will work on this tomorrow, and expect things will be rather straightforward.

[ssdelorean]

. <<snip>> Check your pivot bolt for wear or damage, it's no fun if it breaks and you're far from home.

For this reason I cary a spare after one of mine broke 2 miles from home some years ago. Really inexpensive and really small so I would suggest keeping one in your onboard toolbox.

[sweetp01569]

Good point! I will purchase a spare to keep in the car. I was able to replace all four rubber bushings and pivot bolts. Now I am checking the adjustment to see if all is OK. I can feel the nicer and tighter feel to the shifter! Thanks again for good advice and reassurance from this site! I appreciate the support of this community!

[82DMC12]

I have an emergency tool kit in my car and I made sure I had the right tools, and enough jack lift height, to get under the car to replace the pivot bolt if I ever had to since that's the only part that left me stranded needing a tow twice in 26 years. Since then I've found of the three vendors I bought a pivot bolt from (Hervey, Midwest, and PJ Grady) only PJ Grady has a bolt of the correct dimensions, length, and enough threads to secure a jam nut on the bottom. The shoulder is the right length to tighten completely into the frame. The others will smash the bell crank and get it too tight so you have to back it off before adding the jam nut, leaving it prone to spinning out. Bad design.

[sweetp01569]

I bought the bushing and pivot bolt kit from DMC, and the pivot bolt was part # 100277. The smooth "shaft" part of the new bolt was a bit shorter than the one that was in the car, which had a "wavy" washer on the top of the bellcrank. I omitted that washer and the bolt tightened down all the way without without locking up the bellcrank, which I could still move my hand after tightening. I was then able to secure on the bottom with the provided nyloc nut. Thus, I assume I am OK.