Removing shift lever assembly

[curious-green-llama-01]

I am removing the shift gear assembly so that I may replace my broken gear lever (snapped at the pin). In doing this, I have been following the instructions in F:07:02 of the workshop manual along with the visual references provided in this post (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7281-Gear-Lever-broke-off-at-its-base&p=129630&viewfull=1#post129630). Based on the information in the post, it appears that outatym2001 disconnected the front gear change tube by disconnecting the front gear change tube at the bellcrank. This contradicts the instructions in the workshop manual: Disconnect front gear change tube by lifting assembly out of chassis to gain access to securing pivot bolt.

So I have two questions:


Does it matter the which way in which I disconnect the front gear change tube (from the front or from the rear)? I didn't love the idea of disconnecting at the bellcrank because I cannot see it and am just doing it by feel in a tight space. I am less worried about removing it than I am getting it back in place securely.
It's a really tight squeeze to get the shift lever assembly up and out - what are the metal rods on the driver and passenger side of the access area? I was worried they might be hard fuel lines and didn't want to make my predicament worse by forcing anything.


Thanks,
Bill K

[Bitsyncmaster]

I am removing the shift gear assembly so that I may replace my broken gear lever (snapped at the pin). In doing this, I have been following the instructions in F:07:02 of the workshop manual along with the visual references provided in this post (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7281-Gear-Lever-broke-off-at-its-base&p=129630&viewfull=1#post129630). Based on the information in the post, it appears that outatym2001 disconnected the front gear change tube by disconnecting the front gear change tube at the bellcrank. This contradicts the instructions in the workshop manual: Disconnect front gear change tube by lifting assembly out of chassis to gain access to securing pivot bolt.

So I have two questions:


Does it matter the which way in which I disconnect the front gear change tube (from the front or from the rear)? I didn't love the idea of disconnecting at the bellcrank because I cannot see it and am just doing it by feel in a tight space. I am less worried about removing it than I am getting it back in place securely.
It's a really tight squeeze to get the shift lever assembly up and out - what are the metal rods on the driver and passenger side of the access area? I was worried they might be hard fuel lines and didn't want to make my predicament worse by forcing anything.


Thanks,
Bill K

You can unbolt the bellcrank to disconnect or connect the tube. Then you can bolt it back in by feel.

[curious-green-llama-01]

You can unbolt the bellcrank to disconnect or connect the tube. Then you can bolt it back in by feel.

Understood, thank you for the response! Once I get that disconnected, do I need to be concerned about getting the assembly past the metal tubes indicated with the arrow? It's really tight and I suspect it still will be even after disconnecting the front gear change tube at the bellcrank:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdLv9CxQ3F9pQC4NwloRuqY1H3AAQ2LR/view?usp=sharing

[Bitsyncmaster]

Understood, thank you for the response! Once I get that disconnected, do I need to be concerned about getting the assembly past the metal tubes indicated with the arrow? It's really tight and I suspect it still will be even after disconnecting the front gear change tube at the bellcrank:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdLv9CxQ3F9pQC4NwloRuqY1H3AAQ2LR/view?usp=sharing

It's been almost 20 years since I had that all out. I do remember having all the tubes out of the car. I reworked my bell crank to use a new bronze bearing and a standard bolt. I had a thread on this work but that was before DMCtalk crashed. That third photo is the original set up. My epoxy was so damaged, I had to have a larger area for the seat.

[curious-green-llama-01]

It's been almost 20 years since I had that all out. I do remember having all the tubes out of the car. I reworked my bell crank to use a new bronze bearing and a standard bolt. I had a thread on this work but that was before DMCtalk crashed. That third photo is the original set up. My epoxy was so damaged, I had to have a larger area for the seat.

Thank you once again! :) Those pictures will be useful for me as I fumble around in there without being able to see what I'm doing haha.

To clarify, my second question was about the gear shift assembly below the console inside the car... There are thin gray metal tubes on either side of the assembly that are partially blocking me when I try to pull it out. What are these? I was afraid they might be the fuel hard lines. I don't want to make anything worse by forcing the assembly past them.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thank you once again! :) Those pictures will be useful for me as I fumble around in there without being able to see what I'm doing haha.

To clarify, my second question was about the gear shift assembly below the console inside the car... There are thin gray metal tubes on either side of the assembly that are partially blocking me when I try to pull it out. What are these? I was afraid they might be the fuel hard lines. I don't want to make anything worse by forcing the assembly past them.

There is one small nylon vacuum line that goes back to the engine bay. That drives the heater shutoff valve. No fuel lines should be visible on the top of the center console.

[curious-green-llama-01]

There is one small nylon vacuum line that goes back to the engine bay. That drives the heater shutoff valve. No fuel lines should be visible on the top of the center console.

Yep it isn't the nylon line - I guess they are structural metal bars then. Thank you!

[painterdave72]

not structural rods.. they are hard vacumn lines.. at least one of them is...

[FABombjoy]

Left hard line is vacuum for the brake booster.
The right two are fuel supply/return.

They all have some mobility, you can R&R the shifter with them in place.

[curious-green-llama-01]

I guess I was being overly cautious because I didn't have to apply much pressure at all to get the assembly out. The nut on the front gear change tube wasn't bad either with a little PB Blaster. I'm sure it'll be fun getting it back on once the replacement arrives. Thanks again for the help!