Looking to have clutch slave sleeved

[dn010]

Anyone installing sleeves in clutch master/slave cylinders anymore? I'm pretty sure my clutch slave cylinder is about to quit on me. I have to keep pumping the clutch lately and even though I have no leaks, it seems like it keeps getting air introduced.

[PlutonimicX]

Rob Grady may still offer this service. I've read that the best way to get ahold of him now is probably via Facebook.

[David T]

Look up White Post. They offer re-sleeving services. Have the master and slave done. If you don't have the S/S line, get one to replace the plastic hose.

[dn010]

Rob Grady may still offer this service. I've read that the best way to get ahold of him now is probably via Facebook.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll see if he is still doing these.



Look up White Post. They offer re-sleeving services. Have the master and slave done. If you don't have the S/S line, get one to replace the plastic hose.

The clutch master is only a year and a half old however my plan is to dump it and go the Wilwood route. I do know of White Post, will use them as a last resort. I replaced that plastic line over 20 years ago but with the Wilwood cylinder I will need to custom make line anyway.

[r00b]

You used to be able to get replacements for cheap on ebay, it's been a while since I've looked them up.

[Helirich]

Anyone installing sleeves in clutch master/slave cylinders anymore? I'm pretty sure my clutch slave cylinder is about to quit on me. I have to keep pumping the clutch lately and even though I have no leaks, it seems like it keeps getting air introduced.

I had to do this after a long trip or when the car sat for 3 weeks. I bleed the system several times. My symptom was the clutch wouldn?t completely disengage, especially when shifting to reverse. Several times I had the shut off the car, shift into reverse and start the car again. When I would start it, the clutch was ok, but as soon as I lifted my foot a bit, the car would move.

I ended up making a new clutch pedal link. This is the link from the pedal to the bell crank under the dash. I only made it slightly longer, but it took all the play out of the system. That was enough to cure my problem. I don?t know if it will last, but I?m happy now.

If you choose to try this, I will tell you that a small amount of change in this link makes a big difference. For example, if you measure 1/2? of travel at the pedal, you will make the link only 1/16? longer. I?m not sure of those numbers, but you get the idea.

[David T]

I had to do this after a long trip or when the car sat for 3 weeks. I bleed the system several times. My symptom was the clutch wouldn?t completely disengage, especially when shifting to reverse. Several times I had the shut off the car, shift into reverse and start the car again. When I would start it, the clutch was ok, but as soon as I lifted my foot a bit, the car would move.

I ended up making a new clutch pedal link. This is the link from the pedal to the bell crank under the dash. I only made it slightly longer, but it took all the play out of the system. That was enough to cure my problem. I don?t know if it will last, but I?m happy now.

If you choose to try this, I will tell you that a small amount of change in this link makes a big difference. For example, if you measure 1/2? of travel at the pedal, you will make the link only 1/16? longer. I?m not sure of those numbers, but you get the idea.

Which is why, if you have this problem, you should check the pins in the pedal linkage. A small amount of wear equates to enough slop in the system to cause this. It also explains why the plastic hose can be such a problem when it gets hot and can expand enough to prevent full disengagement. At one point someone made that link with a threaded part so it's length can be adjusted. That was very early on, before the S/S braided hose was available. Similar thing can happen in the brake pedal linkage too so check all of the pins. No one ever lubricates them and those pins are made of soft metal so they do wear. Getting off-topic, this has nothing to do with sleeving leaking cylinders. BTW, the best way to go is to use a brass sleeve and S/S pistons. Nothing to ever corrode and probably a permanent fix. Short of that, flush and replace the brake/clutch fluid at least every other year with DOT 4. The reason getting into reverse is so hard is because it is the only gear that does not have syncros.

[dmcman73]

Apple Hydraulics (https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com/), if you can't get a hold of Grady, this is the place he uses.

The only downside of going direct to Apple Hydraulics is that they may not plate the outside of the slave cylinder to make it look pretty like Rob does.

Just a note: If you do get your cylinder re-sleeved, never plate or powder coat it afterwards. The heat from those processes and the chemicals will weaken the glue bond used when they insert the sleeve.

[Josh]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll see if he is still doing these.




The clutch master is only a year and a half old however my plan is to dump it and go the Wilwood route. I do know of White Post, will use them as a last resort. I replaced that plastic line over 20 years ago but with the Wilwood cylinder I will need to custom make line anyway.

Im not sure if it will be of help, but these are the parts I used to make a Wilwood MC work. You will need new m8 bolts and some crush washers. Also recommend to replace the hose to the resevoir.

Master Cylinder
https://a.co/d/06K1KCq2

Clevis
https://a.co/d/09RI0myH

Clutch Line Adapter
https://a.co/d/05cKbDab

Reservoir Hose Barb
https://a.co/d/0c3AK3XP

[dn010]

Josh, thank you for that info, definitely a help to get this thing done and over with. Is that the same MC you used to get a lighter clutch pedal back when you were fighting the heavy pedal with numerous pressure plate/setups?


To reply to the previous posts, I've been dealing with clutch issues for years now after I've replaced the master and slave cylinders. I do have issues with the linkage having a ton of play but I didn't see anything worn out. I can press the pedal and have a great deal of travel before anything starts to engage, which makes it to where releasing even half an inch off the floor and I'm taking off (nothing under the pedal hindering clearance) so part of the reason I wanted to go with the Wilwood is to be able to get rid of all that slop and possibly also have a lighter clutch pedal. Even my brake pedal is weird now after replacing the brake master cylinder so I don't know if it's just these "new" parts or what but I never had these problems during the first few decades of ownership.

[Helirich]

Josh, thank you for that info, definitely a help to get this thing done and over with. Is that the same MC you used to get a lighter clutch pedal back when you were fighting the heavy pedal with numerous pressure plate/setups?


To reply to the previous posts, I've been dealing with clutch issues for years now after I've replaced the master and slave cylinders. I do have issues with the linkage having a ton of play but I didn't see anything worn out. I can press the pedal and have a great deal of travel before anything starts to engage, which makes it to where releasing even half an inch off the floor and I'm taking off (nothing under the pedal hindering clearance) so part of the reason I wanted to go with the Wilwood is to be able to get rid of all that slop and possibly also have a lighter clutch pedal. Even my brake pedal is weird now after replacing the brake master cylinder so I don't know if it's just these "new" parts or what but I never had these problems during the first few decades of ownership.

This really sounds just like mine. I also had previously replaced both the master and slave. My lines were already the stainless kind. I know it doesn?t seem like that little bit of play could make much difference. I don?t think there was any ware on my parts. The pins and the link holes were not sloppy. The link just needed to be a little bit long.

[Josh]

Josh, thank you for that info, definitely a help to get this thing done and over with. Is that the same MC you used to get a lighter clutch pedal back when you were fighting the heavy pedal with numerous pressure plate/setups?


To reply to the previous posts, I've been dealing with clutch issues for years now after I've replaced the master and slave cylinders. I do have issues with the linkage having a ton of play but I didn't see anything worn out. I can press the pedal and have a great deal of travel before anything starts to engage, which makes it to where releasing even half an inch off the floor and I'm taking off (nothing under the pedal hindering clearance) so part of the reason I wanted to go with the Wilwood is to be able to get rid of all that slop and possibly also have a lighter clutch pedal. Even my brake pedal is weird now after replacing the brake master cylinder so I don't know if it's just these "new" parts or what but I never had these problems during the first few decades of ownership.

This MC has the same bore as stock.

For my pedal (clutch pedal specifically) I modified my pedal box and relocated the MC to gain more leverage.

[dn010]

Well I installed the Wilwood clutch MC and aside from the slave cylinder issue, it solved all my problems. No more slop in the linkage and the clutch releases much higher up now, not down by the floor anymore. It's comparable to how the clutch releases in my Mustang. You are right, it is pretty crazy how heavy the spring is in the stock clutch MC. Just need to get the sleeved slave cylinder to swap in and I should be done with this one for hopefully a long time. Thank you all for your help and suggestions.