Clutch Master/Slave Recommendations?

[Mark D]

I've got a leaky clutch slave and I was going to replace it along with the master since it's also weeps a very slight amount of fluid.

I was considering going with the new 'improved' parts from DMCH that are similar to the originals...

OR

I was considering John Hervey's rebuilt and S/S sleeved versions.

I haven't torn my old ones apart to see if the cylinder bores are pitted or not, so I may be able to just get away with a seal/rebuild kit.

If I have to go with replacements, what would you guys recommend? The master that is on the car now is <10 years old, and from what I've read that is typical lifespan for clutch hydraulic components.

Is the S/S sleeved version really any better, or should I go with the DMCH reman?

Master:
DMCH - $99
Hervey S/S Sleeved - $99

Slave:
DMCH - $69
Hervey S/S Sleeved - $89

[Bitsyncmaster]

My slaved leaked and all it took to fix it was a rebuild kit. You have to pull the slave apart to see which rebuild kit you need. There were three (I think) different types of slaves used in our cars. John can supply the correct rebuild kit.

The master I have not touched but I think the PO had it replaced. It's funny a new master but from what I saw the slave never was bled.

[Cory W]

I've been running the DMCH slave and master since summer 2008. I have their stainless clutch line too. So far so good.

[stevedmc]

Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Autozone Part # 22320
$21.99

Cross Reference Vehicle: 1981 AMC Spirit 4.2L 2BL 6cyl

Rebuild kit only. Complete master can no longer be swapped with AMC part due to integrated reservoir on newer units.

[Mark D]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll probably pull the clutch master & slave tonight and get a better feel for how much gunk is in the system. If I can get away with a rebuild kit I'll definitely go that route.

I was expecting the worst after removing my brake reservoir & master cylinder to find that it was completely loaded with rusty crap and the cylinder bore was pittted to hell inside. I checked the PO's service records and I see the clutch hydraulics have been replaced once before so they (hopefully) shouldn't be too bad. The brake hydraulic parts all appear to be original.

Does anyone know the life expectancy for clutch/brake components if I flush the systems every couple of years with fresh Castrol GT LMA? I only put on around 1000-2000 miles per year, so I figure as long as I keep the fluid fresh the parts should last 10+ years. I've heard of people going through masters/slaves every couple of years though and wonder what the deal is.

[MartyP]

I bought the clutcch Master cylender from Hervey and works great !

I bought the Brake master cyl from DMCMW and works great !

[DMCMW Dave]

Does anyone know the life expectancy for clutch/brake components if I flush the systems every couple of years with fresh Castrol GT LMA? I only put on around 1000-2000 miles per year, so I figure as long as I keep the fluid fresh the parts should last 10+ years. I've heard of people going through masters/slaves every couple of years though and wonder what the deal is.

I'm running on 10 years + on my car but I do change the fluid every couple of years.

It is an interesting statistic, as my son has a 20-year-old BMW still running the originals.

The big mistake people make (other than lack of maintenance) is changing just one or the other after ignoring them for many years. As soon as you put new fluid in as part of the process, the other one fails.

[Mark D]

Thanks Dave, it's good to know that with regular fluid changes the master/slave can last as long as yours have. I'd rather not have to go through this whole process again in another 5 years or less.

[1batt4u]

I have Hervey's, which I am about to install.

Question about the slave cylinder and installing it. I get rid of the original metal line that goes into the slave cylinder and install Hervey's new S/S braided line directly in th slave cylinder??

Also, the rod part thats on the transmission that goes in the slave cylinder, I just put it in the new slave cylinder or do I press it in to pop into something???

Thank you!!!

[David T]

British cars seem to have this problem with old brake fluid. In Lotus's they say to change it every year. In American iron it seems to last forever on old, smelly, black, thick fluid. I would say in a Delorean if you change it every other year the mechanicals will last a LONG time. Same for the anti-freeze, aka coolant. It should at least be tested every other year.
David Teitelbaum

[1batt4u]

So anyone on my question???

[sean]

I have Hervey's, which I am about to install.

Question about the slave cylinder and installing it. I get rid of the original metal line that goes into the slave cylinder and install Hervey's new S/S braided line directly in th slave cylinder??

Also, the rod part thats on the transmission that goes in the slave cylinder, I just put it in the new slave cylinder or do I press it in to pop into something???

Thank you!!!


So anyone on my question???


Question about the slave cylinder and installing it. I get rid of the original metal line that goes into the slave cylinder and install Hervey's new S/S braided line directly in th slave cylinder??
I dont think so. Hervey's SS line looks like it is OEM length so you would still need to mount it to the junction point on the transmission and still use the metal line.



Also, the rod part thats on the transmission that goes in the slave cylinder, I just put it in the new slave cylinder or do I press it in to pop into something???


Yeah, it's just attached to the fork and slides into the slave, nothing to pop or press.

[1batt4u]

Cool! thank you for the info!! I appreciate it!!

The reason I aksed if Hervey's new S/S braided line directly in th slave cylinder, because the end of the S/S braided line, has that curve on it, just like the metal tube has that connects directly on the slave cylinder, and thought that cause they are the same it replaces it.

[sean]

Cool! thank you for the info!! I appreciate it!!

The reason I aksed if Hervey's new S/S braided line directly in th slave cylinder, because the end of the S/S braided line, has that curve on it, just like the metal tube has that connects directly on the slave cylinder, and thought that cause they are the same it replaces it.

That curved end is OEM that connects to the juncture on top of the transmission. If you compare the angle of Hervey's end to an OEM metal pipe that runs from the juncture to the slave I dont thing the angle is the same:
67736774

Now, I've heard and seen where folks will straighten that curved piece and pull the oem line up to the slave and install it directly. I'm pretty sure Bill did it but I've never done it because I have no problem sticking to the oem setup here.

[stevedmc]

Now, I've heard and seen where folks will straighten that curved piece and pull the oem line up to the slave and install it directly. I'm pretty sure Bill did it but I've never done it because I have no problem sticking to the oem setup here.

I did it too.

[DMCMW Dave]

Now, I've heard and seen where folks will straighten that curved piece and pull the oem line up to the slave and install it directly. I'm pretty sure Bill did it but I've never done it because I have no problem sticking to the oem setup here.

Careful here - the folks pushing this mod have often converted to headers or other dual exhaust where there is no crossover pipe. I'd be worried about keeping a flexible line away from the exhaust crossover pipe if you are running a stock exhaust.

Not saying that it can't be done, but watch where the line ends up and make sure it won't move.

[Kenny_Z]

I have Hervey's master and slave kit and I really like it. Other than my stock clutch pin didn't work with the new adjustable clevis. I had to make a new one.

[stevedmc]

Careful here - the folks pushing this mod have often converted to headers or other dual exhaust where there is no crossover pipe. I'd be worried about keeping a flexible line away from the exhaust crossover pipe if you are running a stock exhaust.

Not saying that it can't be done, but watch where the line ends up and make sure it won't move.

I performed this mod just fine with a DMCH stainless line and at the time my exhaust was stock. I drove at least 6 months with this mod before upgrading my exhaust to Spec .01

[Chris Burns]

How do you change the clutch fluid?

[MartyP]

You have to bleed from the slave.

Kind of tricky to get access there to loosen the bleeder but feasable.
For the rest its the same as brake bleeding, push the pedal...etc...

[outatym2001]

Jammer96 it’s the same process as bleeding the brakes.
First get into a car any car and drive from your home in Fernandina, Florida to DMC Florida in Bonita Springs, Florida it’s only like 380 miles and they can demonstrate it done on/in a DeLorean.

Describing how to replace the clutch fluid is better done in person or in a video. There’s gotta be a video online somewhere that can show you how.

[Chris Burns]

Jammer96 it’s the same process as bleeding the brakes.
First get into a car any car and drive from your home in Fernandina, Florida to DMC Florida in Bonita Springs, Florida it’s only like 380 miles and they can demonstrate it done on/in a DeLorean.

Describing how to replace the clutch fluid is better done in person or in a video. There’s gotta be a video online somewhere that can show you how.

Thanks guys! I would like to see DMC FL sometime. Proto-1 is there and I'd like to see that as well.:nana1:

[Kevin]

Thanks guys! I would like to see DMC FL sometime. Proto-1 is there and I'd like to see that as well.:nana1:

Here's a guide on changing/bleeding clutch fluid:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/clutchbleed.html

I stopped by DMC FL on vacation once and Proto 1 wasn't there! I think Tony had it at his house at the time, was disappointed I missed it. Good luck to you on seeing it, quite a piece of history.

[Chris 16409]

After watching a you tube video on the topic, I decided to make my own clutch bleeder. It's very simple to do, and makes the process a whole lot easier. I also recommend getting one of these bleeder Clutch Bleeder Lines from SpecialTAuto.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?124-SpecialTAuto-Clutch-Bleeder-Line

It gives you much better access. Anyway, to make the bleeder, get a glass jar and drill a small hole in the lid to accommodate a length of plastic hose. Next seal the area where the hose fits through the lid (I used a product called Goop). This will prevent any outside air from getting into the jar (I had failed to initially do this and it gave me issues). Once you have the hose fitted to the bleeder screw, open it up and start pumping the clutch pedal. Using this bleeder will allow you to keep the bleed screw open for the duration of the bleeding process. Once you see a clear fluid stream with no bubbles, you can close off the bleeder screw. Make sure you open the jar lid to relieve the pressure before you remove the hose, or else you'll get hydraulic fluid everywhere! I've attached a picture of the bleeder for reference.

[David T]

You should add a small plastic check valve to the hose so it more closely duplicates the "One Man" bleeder kit. I also recommend you use a clear plastic bottle instead of glass, too breakable. You can get the check valve in any auto store, it is used in a lot of vacuum systems. Make a tiny hole in the lid to allow pressure to escape as you fill the bottle. Check the reservoir often to prevent it from emptying and drawing in air. NEVER reuse brake fluid no matter how good it looks. Dispose of properly.
David Teitelbaum