Window Switches Working Erratically

[lazabby]

I usually have to press my window switched several times to get them to activate properly. Is this due to dirty switches and if so how does one take out the switch and clean them?

[thirdmanj]

I usually have to press my window switched several times to get them to activate properly. Is this due to dirty switches and if so how does one take out the switch and clean them?

I purchased the new ones from DMCH with the LED light. They're reasonably priced for the pair, and soooo worth it once you have them installed. The green LED light feature is optional if you choose to maintain the stock look.

I had a similar problem to the one you describe, after I replaced the old ones, I tried to dismantle and refurb them and found it next to impossible, and not worth the effort.

[David T]

You can disassemble and clean the contacts but it is not easy to do and there are a lot of tiny parts with springs in them and they will fly off in all directions. Best advice is to replace them with new ones.
David Teitelbaum

[Grover]

Is it possible to get the new switches and not have them light up? I am in need of a new switch but don't want it to light up at all.

[dmc6960]

Yes. There is a jumper connecting two pins that gets removed (or added, unsure how they come by default).

[thirdmanj]

They come with the jumper. If you want the light up function you just have to install it. Very simple.

[jfirios]

i have a similar problem yet when i changed the switches from the drivers side to the passengers side, it still had the same problem. So I figured it is the window motors that are finally going. Good excuse to get the new ones anyway, try switching the switches to see if it is the switch or the motor going.

[Chris 16409]

If you don't want the lighted ones, call Hervey, he should have some in stock.

[GS450-Junkie]

I just installed these LED switches. When I install the jumper plate to light them up the fuse blows. Jumper plate is installed correctly per the diagram included. Any ideas?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just installed these LED switches. When I install the jumper plate to light them up the fuse blows. Jumper plate is installed correctly per the diagram included. Any ideas?

Did they work without the jumper? If you install the jumper on the wrong two pins it will blow the fuse.

[GS450-Junkie]

Did they work without the jumper? If you install the jumper on the wrong two pins it will blow the fuse.

I was about to try it without the jumpers tonight....tried it one last time and everything works fine. *Scratches Head*
Not sure why it would be fine now...I have about 9 blown fuses sitting in a pile on my workbench that would suggest otherwise.

[Mickfly]

Does anyone have any pictures of the LED ones?

[lazabby]

When I click on the driver's side button, all I hear is clicking. Does that mean it's time to replace the window motor or is this something that can be fixed?

[Bitsyncmaster]

When I click on the driver's side button, all I hear is clicking. Does that mean it's time to replace the window motor or is this something that can be fixed?

Swap the switch with the other one and see if it works the same.

[Dangermouse]

Do dave's thing, but note whether the clicking is in the switch or in the door

[GS450-Junkie]

Well, took the car for a drive tonight and when I pressed the window switch the fuse popped. I have narrowed it down (I think) to the passenger side switch which happens to be the side with the weak window motor. This motor needs to be replaced, and hopefully that will fix my issue. Anyone got one?

[Andrew]

FYI, I just successfully cleaned 5052's window switches. The first one took 45 minutes, the second one took about 5 minutes. In addition to contact cleaner, a small file / sandpaper, and a multimeter, a good set of needle nosed pliers makes the job possible.

Since there are small parts including 2 mini springs, this it the kind of job that you do at a clean work bench or the kitchen table. Also don't take the second switch apart until you finish putting #1 back together.

It's a strange little switch with 4 internal contacts. By the way, if anything is broken or loose inside the switch it can short and blow the fuse. I went through 2 fuses in the testing process. In contrast I would doubt that your window motor itself is causing the blown fuses. I recommend ruling out other possible causes first before expending the cash and hassle associated with replacing a window motor.

If you have any questions about the switches let me know.

Good luck,

Andrew
4194
5052

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2

[Bitsyncmaster]

By the way, if anything is broken or loose inside the switch it can short and blow the fuse. I went through 2 fuses in the testing process. In contrast I would doubt that your window motor itself is causing the blown fuses. I recommend ruling out other possible causes first before expending the cash and hassle associated with replacing a window motor.

+1

Rule out the switch first (you may need to get a box of fuses). I'm not sure how much current a jammed window motor draws but I think the fuse is way over rated if you only do one window at a time (don't press both at same time).

[GS450-Junkie]

FYI, I just successfully cleaned 5052's window switches. The first one took 45 minutes, the second one took about 5 minutes. In addition to contact cleaner, a small file / sandpaper, and a multimeter, a good set of needle nosed pliers makes the job possible.

Since there are small parts including 2 mini springs, this it the kind of job that you do at a clean work bench or the kitchen table. Also don't take the second switch apart until you finish putting #1 back together.

It's a strange little switch with 4 internal contacts. By the way, if anything is broken or loose inside the switch it can short and blow the fuse. I went through 2 fuses in the testing process. In contrast I would doubt that your window motor itself is causing the blown fuses. I recommend ruling out other possible causes first before expending the cash and hassle associated with replacing a window motor.

If you have any questions about the switches let me know.

Good luck,

Andrew
4194
5052

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2

These switches are brand new. Do you really think I need to inspect and clean them? They were purchased about 4 years ago, but I doubt there have been any major changes since then.

[Bitsyncmaster]

These switches are brand new. Do you really think I need to inspect and clean them? They were purchased about 4 years ago, but I doubt there have been any major changes since then.

You don't need to clean them but a few have failed. If you find the switch is at fault, I can probably fix it for you. Just trying to save you a lot of work and money if it's just the switch blowing the fuse.

[NightFlyer]

These switches are brand new. Do you really think I need to inspect and clean them? They were purchased about 4 years ago, but I doubt there have been any major changes since then.

We have a user over on Today that had fairly new DMCH 'improved' window switches in his car that failed in a very short period of time, despite minimal usage (as the owner typically ran the A/C). He switched back to a stock/OEM Torrix switch and has been fine ever since.

With DMCH 'improved' parts, I'm always skeptical/leery about product quality....

[Andrew]

Electrical contacts can develop corrosion over time, even without use. 10 years ago I had a NOS hazard swich that didn't work from day one. I ended up checking the entire circuit thinking that there was a bad ground or otherwise damaged wire only to discover that the real cause was the defective switch. After a good cleaning it has worked fine ever since. I'm guessing that 5052's window switches worked when it was parked 20 years ago with 11,421 miles, but after years of sitting neither one worked until they got a good cleaning. And I think that 5052 was stored inside based upon the lack of frame rust.

However with that said, a bad contact would cause an open circuit...not a dead ground short. Your issue is much more likely the result of something internal in the switch shorting to ground, but it could also be the window motor or a wiring short. To verify if it is the switch or the motor / wiring, swap the switches right to left and see if you still blow fuses when trying to run that motor.

I just repaired, cleaned and disassembled a window motor on 5052 last night. Even when the motor was binding to the regulator gear, it didn't blow a fuse once.

[DMC5180]

Blowing fuses in the window circuit is due to a dead short not motor. The system is designed to allow for high loads due holding the switch down with the window at its limits, hence the 30 amp fuse. Make sure the jumper plate is between the middle terminal and the empty wire terminal. Also confirm you don't have any pinched wires under the console mounting tabs. Another possibility is the LED board could be positioned in way that might be grounding out when the switch is pressed.

[GS450-Junkie]

Well, I've isolated the problem to a new window switch from DMCH. I've swapped the switches and it is evident that one switch is bad. Sometimes when I merely connect it in place I can hear the fuse sizzle. Other times It will work for part of or all of 1 window up and down cycle. Not sure what to look for in the switch or if it can be fixed, or if DMCH would be willing to replace it for me. Anyone encounter something like this before?

[NightFlyer]

Anyone encounter something like this before?

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2122-Window-Switches-Working-Erratically&p=154214&viewfull=1#post154214

I'm also aware of several other early failures of this 'improved' part from DMCH.

[Ron]

Well, I've isolated the problem to a new window switch from DMCH. I've swapped the switches and it is evident that one switch is bad. Sometimes when I merely connect it in place I can hear the fuse sizzle. Other times It will work for part of or all of 1 window up and down cycle. Not sure what to look for in the switch or if it can be fixed, or if DMCH would be willing to replace it for me. Anyone encounter something like this before?If it is shorting inside, you should see a discoloration where at least one of two parts are making contact where they shouldn't (if not burnt or melted).

[Bikercmbc]

I had the exact same issue with my passenger side switch also, swapped them out and would still not work correctly with both plugged it, try with only one switch plugged in on right side and leave drivers unplugged, should work fine and not blow. I called houston on the issue and they said its not the switches that it is an issue, but with the cars themselves and have to do some update. I had an extra set of dmch switches before they had the "improved" light up ones and put those in the car instead. no more issues. put the other switches in another car I had and they worked perfectly fine in that car, go figure it, was something in the actual wiring of the car appartently and did not work with the houston switches. call James, he was going to transfer my call to one of the tech that could tell me how to update the car

[lazabby]

Ok I switched the rocker switches and the driver's side door still clicks. Does that mean that the window motor is bad and needs to be replaced?

[DMC5180]

Ok I switched the rocker switches and the driver's side door still clicks. Does that mean that the window motor is bad and needs to be replaced?

If you hear clicking or ratcheting from the door, the motor assemble needs to be replaced.
Is the sound the same when moving in both directions?

[lazabby]

If you hear clicking or ratcheting from the door, the motor assemble needs to be replaced.
Is the sound the same when moving in both directions?

Yes, moving up or down it has clicking.

[DMC5180]

Yes, moving up or down it has clicking.

Replace it. While your at it do the other side assuming its an oem unit. Wasn't your car the DCS raffle car from pigeon forge?

[lazabby]

Replace it. While your at it do the other side assuming its an oem unit. Wasn't your car the DCS raffle car from pigeon forge?

Yes it was.

The passenger side window is fine.

[DMC5180]

Yes it was.

The passenger side window is fine.

That's what I thought. I suggested doing the other side because it's cheaper to purchase the motors in pairs than individually. Once done you'll never have to worry about again. Piece of mind thing.