VIN# 1356 - Problems and challenges

[aryx]

Finally my car has arrived! I'll most likely need some help on a few situations I get myself into when working on the car this winter.

My first challenge is that I did not get the doorlock keys, and guess what, the driver side door is now locked. Not sure how I managed to do it.
Is there a way to get it unlocked from the inside when it's closed? Is the only solution to pick the lock from outside?

[Nicholas R]

Are both doors locked or just the drivers side? If the passenger side is unlocked, just reach over and unlock the drivers side.

[aryx]

hehe, didn't look too closely since I had to leave pretty quickly after I left it in the garage. (The passanger side is still open)
So there is a way to unlock it from inside, didn't see it at first glance and thought I also remembered reading about people that had been locked inside their cars. Might have been a short circut in my head, maybe it was keys beeing locked inside and not people :-)
I have allready ordered new locks from the summer special offer, so I guess that will be the fix if I can't get the original keys for the doors.

I have another challenge as well, but will do some more research before asking =)

[Nicholas R]

I also remembered reading about people that had been locked inside their cars. Might have been a short circut in my head, maybe it was keys beeing locked inside and not people :-)


Oh by all means, don't misunderstand me; you can DEFINITELY get locked inside a DeLorean, haha. But it happens because the locks jam, the door mechanisms jam, the striker rods jam, etc.

For a car with working door locks and door mechanisms however, yes, there is a lock/unlock on each door.

[NOTE] Bare in mind that when working properly, the two door locks always strive to be in the same position (both unlocked or both locked). i.e. if you lock the drivers side, the passenger side should lock as well, if you unlock one door, the other should also unlock. This however will NOT be the case if your door lock module is disconnected, non functional, the sensors in your doors are damaged, or the battery is disconnected.

Also remember you're never supposed to try to change the status of the door locks with the door open, (only closed). And if your door lock module is working right, you should try to have both closed when locking or unlocking.

[aryx]

Oh by all means, don't misunderstand me; you can DEFINITELY get locked inside a DeLorean, haha. But it happens because the locks jam, the door mechanisms jam, the striker rods jam, etc.

For a car with working door locks and door mechanisms however, yes, there is a lock/unlock on each door.

[NOTE] Bare in mind that when working properly, the two door locks always strive to be in the same position (both unlocked or both locked). i.e. if you lock the drivers side, the passenger side should lock as well, if you unlock one door, the other should also unlock. This however will NOT be the case if your door lock module is disconnected, non functional, the sensors in your doors are damaged, or the battery is disconnected.

Also remember you're never supposed to try to change the status of the door locks with the door open, (only closed). And if your door lock module is working right, you should try to have both closed when locking or unlocking.

Thanks for clarifying, then it wasn't just a brain fart after all =) I'll have a closer look next time I'm there (I'm renting a garage 15 minutes away from home).

[aryx]

Next question, had a look through the engine bay, and something is modified/removed, does anyone know what's been done?
I found a sticker in the trunk. I would belive it to be the 3 bottom left hoses (when you tilt your head 45 degrees to the left so it's resting on your left shoulder, ;) )
Two of them are plugged with a screw.

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[AdmiralSenn]

http://store.delorean.com/c-275-2-4-0-evaporative-control-systems.aspx

You're missing your charcoal canister. It's part of the emissions system. Not sure if it's harmful to have it removed, but if those lines come unplugged you'll have some interesting vacuum leaks to track down. See the entire stack of parts on the right side of that image. You'll likely need everything there if those parts aren't somewhere in the car.

Do you have the panel that goes over that hole? Item 4 on that page.

[aryx]

http://store.delorean.com/c-275-2-4-0-evaporative-control-systems.aspx

You're missing your charcoal canister. It's part of the emissions system. Not sure if it's harmful to have it removed, but if those lines come unplugged you'll have some interesting vacuum leaks to track down. See the entire stack of parts on the right side of that image. You'll likely need everything there if those parts aren't somewhere in the car.

Do you have the panel that goes over that hole? Item 4 on that page.

Thanks for the link, I'll look through all the stuff I got with the car first.
What will the down sides be to not having it installed? Will it polute more? Is there a reason why it might have been removed? I guess this part might be hard to find?

Rgds

Dag

[aryx]

Found some more information about it here: http://www.dmchelp.com/showthread.php?618-Carbon-Canister

Part # 101109 http://store.delorean.com/p-6675-carbon-canister.aspx

Hoses can also be plugged with part # 101112 http://store.delorean.com/p-6674-cap-blanking.aspx

[Ryan King]

Hey Dag!

Welcome to the community of DeLoreans! We are pretty tight group of people, always trying to help fellow owners out!

First off, I would suggest you take photos of the car, 360, inside and out, and all around. This way we can get an idea of what you are dealing with and if there appear to be things out of place.

Take photos of the parts and things you have in boxes etc. Pictures really help to give us perspective.

Anywho, again, welcome! I hope we can be of some help

-Ryan

[aryx]

Hey Dag!

Welcome to the community of DeLoreans! We are pretty tight group of people, always trying to help fellow owners out!

First off, I would suggest you take photos of the car, 360, inside and out, and all around. This way we can get an idea of what you are dealing with and if there appear to be things out of place.

Take photos of the parts and things you have in boxes etc. Pictures really help to give us perspective.

Anywho, again, welcome! I hope we can be of some help

-Ryan

Thanks Ryan, look forward to working on the car, I'll take photos and post them here. I'll be greatful for all advices I can get, I'm just a hobby mechanic and I'll use the workshop manual, forums and all other resources I can to get things sorted out.

[aryx]

I took some pictures today when I removed the seats, signal lights and tail lights.

Looks like a previous owner has resprayed the license lights and cut the wires to them.

I need to rewire the side markers to blink, and cut out the marker lights, it should only be turn signals on the front of the car and not a constant yellow light.

The passanger seat rails seems to have rusted shut.
There's a lot of small things to do, but the car seems to be in pretty good condition. I'll have a closer look at the frame when I'm changing the oil.

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[aryx]

Today I replaced the rear speakers and removed the center console, seems like someone has cut the wires to the clock, I'll hook it up later to see if it works.

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[aryx]

My focus now is the lights on the car before I try and get it registered it need to be sorted out.

My problems:
[sorted] Marker lights on the front of the car - not allowed in Norway
Brake lights are not working
Reverse light is not working
High beams are not working

Marker lights front:
I've used the wireing diagram http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=43&d=1306066397
to sort out the marker lights, I've disconnected the red wires on the front turn lights.
I've also switched the red wire that goes to the side lights with the green wire so they blink along with the turn signals.

Brake lights:
The turn signal and marker lights on the tail light is working.
The horn is working (rules out fuse #6).
I've tried switching the bulbs around.

When I look at the wireing diagram on the brake lights it looks like the only fault could be the stop lamp switch. I haven't looked under the dash yet, I guess it's easy to see where it is.
Could it be something else?

Reverse light:
I havn't done more than turning on the ignition, turning on the lights and putting the car in reverse.
I guess it could be the switch on the transmission, is it easy to find?

I had a closer look in the fuse and relay compartment today, it looks like a mess, the relay holder for the 2nd row seems to be gone.
It also looks like the hot start relay is gone.

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[aryx]

My problems:
[sorted] Marker lights on the front of the car - not allowed in Norway
[sorted] Brake lights are not working
[sorted] Reverse light is not working
High beams are not working

Brake lights:
I disconnected the switch, sprayed it with electronic cleaner, and it worked.

Reverse light:
Bad Connections in the tail lights, brushed socket and sprayed with el. cleaner.

I've not looked at the high beams yet, I'll try and change the relay and check wires with a volt meter and hopefully it will be sorted out as well.

[aryx]

Okay, now I probably need some help, tried starting the car for the second time, it wouldn't start.
I changed out fuse #7 (30 Amp) with a 20 Amp and the RPM Fuel Relay.
It now started.
But the fuse blows after 30 seconds or so.

When I look in the trunk I see someone has added some wires and it dosn't look like they've used alot of effort. A piece of the red wire is exposed as well.
I will change out these wires with some new ones, but are there any other things I should look at too?
I would be greatful for any advise.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Okay, now I probably need some help, tried starting the car for the second time, it wouldn't start.
I changed out fuse #7 (30 Amp) with a 20 Amp and the RPM Fuel Relay.
It now started.
But the fuse blows after 30 seconds or so.

When I look in the trunk I see someone has added some wires and it dosn't look like they've used alot of effort. A piece of the red wire is exposed as well.
I will change out these wires with some new ones, but are there any other things I should look at too?
I would be greatful for any advise.

7103

That wiring needs some work. Try unplugging the WUR and see if the 20 amp fuse holds (it should). There has been a few WUR short circuit by the wiring inside melting.

If it still blows your fuel pump is probably bad unless the PO added another circuit to the pump.

[aryx]

That wiring needs some work. Try unplugging the WUR and see if the 20 amp fuse holds (it should). There has been a few WUR short circuit by the wiring inside melting.

If it still blows your fuel pump is probably bad unless the PO added another circuit to the pump.

Thanks, I'll change the wires and try disconnecting the WUR tomorrow.

[aryx]

It didn't help to change out the wiring and disconnecting the WUR, any idea what else I can look for?

[Bitsyncmaster]

It didn't help to change out the wiring and disconnecting the WUR, any idea what else I can look for?

Try disconnecting the pump. If it still blows the fuse you have a wiring short. If not, it's probably the pump is bad.

[aryx]

I've done some more investigation, could this be the problem?

There is a small wire going from the fuel pump earth to the radiator fan, it looks like the PO has done some modifications the the radiator fans.
When I look at the wireing diagram it dosn't look like this wire should exist. Could this cause the fuse blowing?

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[aryx]

I cut the wire and it looks like it helped! :-D
Next will be to figure out how the fans are connected and try and fix it. :-D

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've done some more investigation, could this be the problem?

There is a small wire going from the fuel pump earth to the radiator fan, it looks like the PO has done some modifications the the radiator fans.
When I look at the wireing diagram it dosn't look like this wire should exist. Could this cause the fuse blowing?

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Your going to have to remove all those PO modifications. There should be no ground (earth) connections at the fuel pump.

[aryx]

Your going to have to remove all those PO modifications. There should be no ground (earth) connections at the fuel pump.

Just thought it was earth, it's probably positive, looked closer now and it is positive.

Cutting it fixed my problem, I'm glad it wasn't a faulty component :-)

[aryx]

My handbrake pads on the right side had to be replaced, the adjustm bolt ( part 109018 ) was bent out of shape.

It seems like it's not in stock any more, is my only solution to find a used one or try and bend it back in shape?