Engine compartment light

[Bitsyncmaster]

Just noticed my LED (standard off the self LED) is very dim. I guessing the heat has burned most of the LEDs out. Also it looks like my OEM lens is all broken up. I don't think it was that badly broken before. I know I can take care of the LED burn out problem with a custom LED setup but looking for ideas for a new light housing.

Also am going to use a mercury tilt switch to replace the OEM switch. Since my harness is unwrapped, I may install that switch on the passenger side of the engine cover.

This is not a high priority project but that light will aid you do an alternator belt replacement in the dark.

[Michael]

I have had my LED engine light in for almost 3 years now, and it's still working fine. Outside of just changing the bulb, if you want more light you might try this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8944
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/LED-S-WH.jpg

They are self adhesive and you can cut these to almost any length and run them off 12v so splicing them into your trunk switch should be no problem. Come to think of it, I think Bill used these or something similiar doing his interior lights. If I were doing something like this, I would look into a clear tube to install them in to make them water resistant.

[Chris4099]

Interesting that you mentioned a mercury switch. I just closed on a house with an old-school thermostat. Here I was wondering how to dispose of it and it never occurred to me to place it in the D! I could see it turning on the light under heavy braking, but that's not really a big deal. I'll have to disassemble the thermostat to see if I can salvage that switch. Thanks for the idea!

[nkemp]

As you hit bumps, the switch will make contact and cause the lights to flash on for a bit. Likely won't hurt the LEDs but it may look a bit funny.

Nick

[Farrar]

How about a reed switch?

Farrar

[nkemp]

A reed switch should work but so should a normally closed plunger style switch like installed originally. Mine has a new "bumper" installed on the hood to provide greater switch depression.

Regarding the mercury switch... I used to work for the company that made that mercury thermostat famous. It is optimized for AC current and as such, the current flows fairly randomly in both directions. Switches that operate in DC mode always have the current flow in one direction and that is a significantly more difficult problem for contact life. As such, operating a switch designed for AC in DC mode may have life longevity issues.

[bkntym]

I had the same problem with the engine light on when engine cover was closed. i used a small ( white ) Barr Cap. (one of those things that is threaded inside used to hold electrical wires together in a junction box ) put some caulking in the threaded part and lightly thread it onto the top of the factory switch nub. now when you close the lid the light stays off.....:wiggle:

[nkemp]

The PO glued a rubber eraser to the cover which shortens the throw required of the plunger type switch. Works fine and has been there for over 25 years.