Brake rebuild questions

[jawn101]

Hey guys. One of my winter projects is going to be a brake system rebuild. Everything is currently working just fine, but I know that new pads are probably in order, and my driver's front wheel is squealing louder than anything I've ever heard when I stop.

I already plan to do stainless brake lines, and I know my master cylinder and vacuum booster are less than 2 years old. But when it comes to rebuilding the calipers, what's the best route? I've looked at the vendors, and I know I can get "brand new" (rebuilt and re-plated) calipers, loaded with new pistons, new organic pads, new OEM rotors and stainless brake lines for about 800 bucks.

Thing is, aside from the pads and the lines that I just want as an upgrade, I don't really know if I need all that. How likely are the pistons to need replacement? I'd tear the thing apart but the car will be immobile if I do and my wife will be very displeased if I take up the whole garage during the rainy season here :) I don't mind using my original calipers and don't care about their 'seasoned' look. Would there be any externally visible symptoms or indicators that I'd need to get new pistons? Should I just spend a hundred bucks on caliper rebuild kits and pads, get the rotors turned (right now they are still within spec) and call it good?

For what it's worth, here's the only pic I have handy that shows the condition of one of the assemblies.

[DMCMW Dave]

How likely are the pistons to need replacement? I'd tear the thing apart but the car will be immobile if I do and my wife will be very displeased if I take up the whole garage during the rainy season here :) .

50-50. Porbably better on a car that's being driven. You can't tell if they are pitted until you get them out. Best thing (if you can get away with it) is take them all apart, figure out what you need, and then order the pistons. It means that you'll have it apart a while but there is no reason you can't put the tires back on and roll it back out of the way (other than dripping brake fluid all over the driveway from the open hose ends).

Or - order all 8 pistons and return what's left. OR - just replace them all anyway.

[jawn101]

I was afraid someone smart was going to say something like that..... :) I ordered 8 new pistons, some rebuild kits and new pads/brake lines and will see how it goes.

Will a typical brake shop turn rotors for you if you bring them in loose?

[DMCMW Dave]

Will a typical brake shop turn rotors for you if you bring them in loose?

Depends on the machine they have. Some can, some can't. MAKE SURE they are aware of the minimum - I've had a few come in here on cars that were cut to half the specified miminum thickness. They looked like pie plates.

All rotors are 1/2 inch (.500) or better new, and should not be cut below .480 thickness.

[stevedmc]

I was afraid someone smart was going to say something like that..... :) I ordered 8 new pistons, some rebuild kits and new pads/brake lines and will see how it goes.

Will a typical brake shop turn rotors for you if you bring them in loose?

Yes. I get my rotors turned at Oreilly Auto Parts.

[jmettee]

Well you asked the question & then said you ordered the pistons within 1 hour, so pretending you didn't already order the pistons, :) I'll answer the original questions with my experience:

Mine is a driver with about 50K on the odometer. I rebuild my brake system 2 years ago & I tore the calipers down & rebuild them. Pistons looked good. I would say as long as the brake system works & doesn't pull to one side, it's a good chance your pistons are fine.

I had mine powdercoated, it was about $100 for all 8 halves to be done. I've attached some pics. If you have the time & find a way to afford the garage space, I would tear them apart & rebuild (save money).

EDIT: pics didn't upload in order, but you can tell before/after

[Rich]

Will a typical brake shop turn rotors for you if you bring them in loose?
Any decent auto machine shop will turn rotors off the car in case you can't find a suitable brake shop. You can call around for quotes.

Along Dave's lines, check the current thicknesses and look for severe grooves on both sides, especially on your squeaky one, then decide whether you want to turn them or replace them.

[jawn101]

Cool, thanks all. I did jump on the order pretty quick because I had a feeling that was the route I'd go. I don't mind the extra work of rebuilding the calipers myself and honestly hadn't even thought of returning unused parts, lol.

The pics above are great info to have! And yes, I'll be very careful with the rotor turning. I forgot O'Reilly does rotors but I'm not sure if I have a ton of confidence in those guys. Either way, I'll definitely replace anything that needs it (overly grooved or worn rotors, etc)

[David T]

If the brake pedal doesn't pulsate you do not need to cut the rotors. Scuff them up with a rotary pad so the new pads can bed in. The hard lines do not get replaced, only the flexible hoses. Figure on replacing the pistons and seals but reuse the small, square "O" ring. You may also have to replace the bleeders. Use anti-squeal compound on the backs of the pads. Some venders sell springs you can use on the retaining pins to keep the noise down.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

Great advice David. I already had all the parts you mentioned on order but scuffing the rotors isn't something I would have thought of. I will do a proper 4 wheel measurement of thickness and make what I think is the safest call on the rotors. Like my friends always say - the only system that HAS to work is the brakes. Everything else can be fixed :)

[vwdmc16]

so when are you going to rebuild these Jon? you have a small air compressor yet?

[jawn101]

so when are you going to rebuild these Jon? you have a small air compressor yet?

I'll probably start as soon as the parts arrive :) which means whenever you're free, lol. I don't have an air compressor yet but I plan to get one at harbor freight this week. Nothing fancy :)

Do you have a brake bleeder? I've been saving milk and mouthwash jugs...