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Socal_dmc
11-20-2011, 08:29 PM
Please see the attached video showing my current engine problems. The car was sitting for a couple weeks, but now when i open the throttle the RPM's drop like the engine is going to die, then revs up like normal. About 1 year ago I had a similar problem, so i took off the WUR (i think that's what it was) and cleaned it out and reinstalled and it worked fine after that. Could it be the same thing again? Do i need a new WUR?

Thanks for your help in advance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awNkTIpZvyI

Bitsyncmaster
11-21-2011, 05:54 AM
Does it do the same thing after it's warmed up? Check the vacuum hoses on the WUR (warm up regulator). There should be a delay valve that needs to be pointed the correct way.

Your advance may be stuck on. Pull the advance hose off and see that fixes it.

David T
11-21-2011, 12:45 PM
Get a timing light and check the mechanical and vacuum advance. Make sure the plug is on the vacuum solenoid and none of the hoses are leaking or disconnected. Make sure you hear the frequency valve buzzing. Disconnect and reconnect the plug to it.
David Teitelbaum

Socal_dmc
12-04-2011, 12:34 PM
Checked the vaccuum lines and couldn't detect any leaks. It warms up fine at idle, but when given any throttle, whether hot or cold, the engine starts sputtering and runs like its on 5 cylinders. ????

opethmike
12-04-2011, 12:42 PM
As already mentioned, check the timing related items. Also, get a set of K-Jet pressure gauges, and check the fuel pressure for the warm-up cycle per the shop manual.

DMCMW Dave
12-04-2011, 05:52 PM
Checked the vaccuum lines and couldn't detect any leaks. It warms up fine at idle, but when given any throttle, whether hot or cold, the engine starts sputtering and runs like its on 5 cylinders. ????

Sudden failure of the regulator is rare but it can fail such the the engine is extremely lean and it will act like what you are seeing. The only way to test this is to swap the CPR or get a gauge set on it.

David T
12-05-2011, 09:58 AM
Is the frequency valve buzzing? A bad connection and it stops and then the A/F ratio is very lean and the motor will have this symptom. Sometimes all it takes it snapping the plug on and off the valve a couple of times. At the very least the motor should change speed when you pull the plug off the valve. If removing the plug has no effect then the valve is not running.
David Teitelbaum