Suspension Front Spring Compressors [Archive] - DMCTalk Forum

jmettee

11-20-2011, 10:02 PM

Anyone have recommendations for front spring compressors to use for spring replacements. I used the 2 types shown in the links below this weekend & had dangerous issues with both. First, I had Type #1 (http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25550-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CMDPLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-1) slip while trying to compress while still on the car & Type#2 (http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Design-ATD-7561-MacPherson-Compressor/dp/B000M61KTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-2) I has 1 side completely let go (safety hooks kept it from flying) & I needed to chuck it in the driveway to "disarm" it safely!

Today when trying to install new springs, the compressors kept me from getting the springs all the way into the seats & I didn't feel safe repositioning them even closer together.

I did also try an internal compressor, but could not get the plate between the coils.

The types I am considering that may fit better with the shock towers:
Double Claw (http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5737-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000NPT6AC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-4)
Double Hook (http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Design-ATD-7549-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000OUXA0S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-5)
Clam shell (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-8)

Any others anyone can suggest that they found useful/easy to work in the tight DMC space?

BTW: I don't want to EVER deal with this again from #2:
6957

Delorean Industries

11-20-2011, 10:08 PM

We use the OTC version or clam shell if you would like to call it that. The others will not work.

stevedmc

11-20-2011, 10:09 PM

This is what you need to safely do the front springs. The clam compressors will only work on the front.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MCPHERSON-STRUT-COIL-SPRING-CLAM-COMPRESSOR-MACPHERSON-/190603102616?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c60d48998

To do the rear springs, go down to autozone and rent a set of compressors for free. The auto zone tool looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25550-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CMDPLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-1

jmettee

11-20-2011, 10:18 PM

Rears are cake, I can do them with just a floor jack (don't need a compressor). Been there, done that for shock replacement.

Guess I'll get that one from ebay based on you guys (Josh & Steve) saying it works....I was looking at it trying to decide if it would work with our small diameter springs.

stevedmc

11-20-2011, 10:25 PM

DeLorean

11-20-2011, 11:48 PM

I have never seen a spring compressor that was entirely confidence inspiring... That said, I used type 1 on my DeLorean front springs, without serious issue. If you feel like popping down to Reading with yours, we could pop it up on the lift and do some work - I have done front springs before (Justin, you have seen mine) and it went relatively smoothly. Also, installing lowering springs goes easier going in than coming out, cause there is not quite as much energy involved compressing your new springs.

Jacko

11-21-2011, 05:52 AM

I recently installed SPAX shocks on 4915 and used this style spring compressors. Due to the small diameter of our springs I couldn't use both hooks but just hanging one hook on each end they worked well with no issues. I bought these on Amazon.com for around $15.
6960

jmettee

11-21-2011, 05:52 AM

I just ordered the red clampshell version referenced above - hope to have it by the weekend & new springs installed. Looks like I'll actually have to separate the lower ball joints now for this one.

Question: When I pulled the UCA, 4 washers fell from between the UCA & shock tower. I assume this was 2 per side & used to take up the slack. These were not for any form of caster adjustment, were they? If they were, doesn't seem like much of an adjustment.

Jeff: Thanks for the offer. I'll be OK with my new tool. I had never done a spring change before, but was confident. Now, I'm a little less confident in the tools & have much more respect for the dangers of compressed suspension springs that I had given them given my issues with 2 types of compressors. The frame on the D is a challenge to work with those front springs. The fact that the OEM 14" spring needs to be squashed to ~8" to get out is pretty ridiculous!

sean

11-21-2011, 07:46 AM

Clam shell (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844240&sr=8-8)

This is what I use without issue

tyb323

11-21-2011, 09:11 AM

Use your bare hands. I did it. Check out the results after putting on Martin's springs brah:
http://i42.tinypic.com/335h4c3.jpg

Yeah, going to the gym pays off =)

nullset

11-21-2011, 11:06 AM

I had a similar scary moment when doing my front springs.

Fortunately, I stopped and asked a knowledgable friend for advice. We took a piece of metal, clamped it down good, slid the spring over it, and clamped down the other side a good distance away from the spring. Now you can safely take the pressure off without worrying about it flying away.

This way, if it does pop, it's contained. I wish I had a picture of the setup, but I think you can figure it out from the description.

--buddy

DeLorean

11-21-2011, 11:09 AM

hehe, squashing springs with your hands would be a trick. compressing springs to the degree that they can be removed I think would involve being able to squeeze with about 2500lbs of force :dead:

tyb323

11-21-2011, 11:25 AM

hehe, squashing springs with your hands would be a trick. compressing springs to the degree that they can be removed I think would involve being able to squeeze with about 2500lbs of force :dead:

Your point? =)

stevedmc

11-21-2011, 11:28 AM

Your point? =)

You aren't Chuck Norris.

dvonk

11-22-2011, 09:30 AM

i noticed last night that they sell the 'clamshell' style spring compressors at Harbor Freight for $70:

Single Action Strut Spring Compressor (http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html)

not as cheap as the $54 dollar ones on ebay, but you also dont have to pay the $20 for shipping if you buy locally, so it probably evens out.

John U

11-23-2011, 11:32 PM

thanks for the link dvonk....went right out and bought a set!
After a scary incident compressing springs a few years back I swore I wound never do it again, but the one you posted looks very sturdy and reliable...the thing is quite well built especially compared to the cheapy ones I used before!

john

dvonk

11-25-2011, 12:13 AM

im glad the link helped you out, i happened across it while browsing and thought it might be helpful to those reading this thread. youll have to let us know how it performs for you. good luck! :thumbup:

Bitsyncmaster

11-25-2011, 03:50 AM

jmettee

11-25-2011, 06:46 AM

I'll be using it tomorrow (Saturday) & will take pics. I now have to separate the lower ball joint as I had been work around it before by simply unbolting the UCA & swinging it out of the way. Only problem was leaning on the brake lines a number of times.

I'll take pics & post, but after looking the thing over, I think this will be much more stable/secure.

DMCNY

11-25-2011, 06:01 PM

If anyone is interested, I use a different method to replace the front coils.

I use a set-up like this.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7057&d=1322261858

StainlessBullet

11-26-2011, 01:37 AM

Bitsyncmaster

11-26-2011, 05:06 AM

So looks like the type with one long bolt going through the center of the sring will work:lockdance:

jmettee

11-26-2011, 09:00 AM

I removed my springs and control arms today. I was expecting it to be a nightmare, but it actually went pretty easy.

I used this spring compressor with no issues.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Coil-spring-compressor/_/N-264t?counter=0&itemIdentifier=555573_0_0_

If you have an Autozone nearby, they will loan the tool to you. You give them a $50 deposit and when you return the tool it’s refunded.

That's the first one I tried but could not get the fork between the coils on the spring. Maybe I had the LCA jacked higher than I should have & couldn't get it through. I liked that one because it looked really secure. Oh well, I have clamshell & will be using it in a few hours.

dmc6960

11-26-2011, 06:10 PM

So looks like the type with one long bolt going through the center of the sring will work:lockdance:

I used that type when I changed out my springs. I compressed the whole LCA with the spring and removed them together. This does require separating the lower ball joint from the hub assembly though. Protect the LCA with thin sheet of wood. When releasing tension on OEM springs, it will not extend far enough to completely relax the spring. I did it in the driveway pointed away from the house with several towels covering it up. Once it let go it only jumped a few inches, I was expecting several feet.

jmettee

11-26-2011, 07:31 PM

OK, I'm not one to admit defeat easily, but I'm right here right now: :banghead: :frantic: :rant:

I tried the clamshell compressor I just bought & tried with both 5 & 6 coils in the unit. I'm trying to re-install the OEM spring. The math is not working for me - 5 coils does not compress far enough & 6 coils *may* go far enough, but the force on the compressor tool bolt is getting excessive & as seen in the pic below (6 coils), I'm at 11" with a significant bow in the spring & really only have about 2.5" farther to compress (looks like 3" in the image, but that's due to tape measure location relative to the tool). Even if I did go that far, I don't think I could release the compressor from the spring before the hooks interfere with the top spring perch.

7065

By my calcs, the OEM spring (which is 14" at free length) needs to be compressed to 8" to be installed. I'm beginning to wonder if my OEM springs are somehow different than everyone else above that has not had problems removing/installing.

The only other compressor I have not tried that someone told me worked for them is this set (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Strut-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Autocraft_9020066-P_N3492_T%7CGRP2083_____).

I'm open for any other input. I've always overcome challenges with the car in the past, but these springs are killing me. I want to remove the spring without being attached to the LCA, so I don't want to attempt the home-made long thread version of the removal tool.

tyb323

11-27-2011, 12:41 AM

TTait

11-27-2011, 01:23 AM

I have the harbor freight clamshell compressors and they have worked for me for the rears. when they go on sale the price is pretty cheap - thats what the ebay ones are - folks snatch them up when harbor freight puts them on sale and then sell on ebay after the sale ends.

The trick was to use the floor jack to make life easier - with the suspension fully extended put on the clamshell, compress the spring a bit with the floor jack, take up the slack with the clamshell, and then repeat as many times as you can. Eventually you have to start cranking on the clamshell, but is faster and easier to do most of the compressing with the floor jack.

Now... I also, once, did it the rears using tie wraps (about 250 per spring) - would not do it again though. Felt like a bomb squad technician the whole time - but it went pretty fast.

jmettee

11-27-2011, 08:07 AM

It's possible that you have different springs. I've never seen bare metal ones like that before.

How the hell do you think the factory put those things on :shock:

Unfortunately I am not of much help. Try torquing your springs to about 90psi with a torque wrench, be sure to have sockets, and get back to me =)

(But seriously, keep me posted if you get it on or not)

Tyler, a previous owner spray-painted the whole front end silver to cover/prevent rust. The springs are mostly painted silver, but have some black showing in some spots. Would really love to know how the factory installed these things. Perhaps I need to give Grady a call. I'll try your torque wrench method ;)

The trick was to use the floor jack to make life easier - with the suspension fully extended put on the clamshell, compress the spring a bit with the floor jack, take up the slack with the clamshell, and then repeat as many times as you can. Eventually you have to start cranking on the clamshell, but is faster and easier to do most of the compressing with the floor jack.

Gotcha. My problem is starting from an OEM spring that is at free-length, so I don't have the luxury of the jack method right now. An aftermarket lowering spring is likely easier as they are already a few inches shorter. Had I known the lowering springs I was attempting to install would not fit (defective spring), I would not be trying to put the OEM back in :(

DeLorean

11-27-2011, 09:51 AM

Spring compressors are pretty frightening. You can crank the springs significantly further than you have pictured there, so long as the coils don't touch each other, you are still good. I know it seems like the tool can't take it, but it should be able to. I used an impact wrench on my spring compressor in order to get the stock springs out of there, it's very hard to turn the damn thing hard enough by hand.

Once you get your positioning right so you have clearance between the suspension components & your tool, and are fairly sure you can get the thing in / out when the spring is compressed you can stick an impact socket onto the tool and go to town till the spring is almost compressed coil to coil (but not touching)

It *should* fit right in or out then.

Likely at the factory, like most car assembly plants that make cars that don't have struts (The pre 1994 Saab 900 comes to mind) , they had some sort of spring compressor jig that had compressed springs ready to go that just popped them in, and released. Workers could just place the assembly and push a button.

Jacko

11-27-2011, 11:38 AM

protodelorean

11-27-2011, 11:52 AM

7074
Justin, I made this contraption out of stuff I had. The picture is pretty much self-explanatory. The actual bolts I used were probably used for something else and I put these shorter, skinny ones in for this picture. If you're still having trouble with those front springs it may be worth a try ... it worked for me. Good luck.

No offense, I'm glad it worked for you. But, without a bolt down the center of the spring or some sort of positive retention system, there's nothing preventing that compressor from becoming what the coroner will refer to as the "cause of death".

jmettee

11-27-2011, 05:42 PM

FINALLY! Got the original spring back on today. I bought the compressor recommended by Steve (protodelorean) via private message from Advanced Auto. This unit held the spring coils securely & also stand off of the coil so it is less likely to interfere with the chassis. Pics below, but the tool itself didn't work the first time as it's only long enough to grab 5 coils (insufficient to compress far enough to get into the car). I used a jack to compress the spring enough to grab 6 coils & as you see is still pretty close to coil binding. Note I also had to fully remove the ARB to get full/easy movement of the LCA to install the spring.

I now have my plan & learned tips/tricks for later this winter when I clean up the front chassis & install Grady's lowering springs.

As soon as I got it in the chassis, I installed the shock absorber as a safety in case anything let go.
7077 7076

protodelorean

11-27-2011, 05:50 PM

:thumbup2::cheers1:

Ozzie

11-27-2011, 06:01 PM

Been lurking/learning from this thread, glad you were successful Justin.

...and thanks for posting pictures, had never seen those Advanced Auto compressors, they look much safer than all the other non-clamshell compressors I have previously seen.

jmettee

11-28-2011, 05:42 AM

Ozzie,
Though I struggled more than I ever thought I would with this, and I was cautious knowing full-well what a compressed spring can do, I learned to respect the safety required much more though doing this. I will always add safeties on top of the existing tool safeties when working with springs in the future due to the personal injury risk as well as equipment damage (I moved the wife's car outside "just in case").

Seeing how much force is stored being contained in the spring by the tool would make me never want to trust a home-made tool. If anything goes wrong, it will be all of a sudden.

FYI, I was told the OEM springs (front) are 165 lb/in. I had mine reduced from 14" to about 9", meaning there was over 800 lb of force created.

Rich_NYS

11-21-2015, 01:57 AM

What's the latest on what spring compressor to buy?

I don't want to use a loaner, I want to buy one and I see several different McPherson types, reasonably priced on eBay.

Mark D

11-21-2015, 02:59 PM

What's the latest on what spring compressor to buy?

I don't want to use a loaner, I want to buy one and I see several different McPherson types, reasonably priced on eBay.

This is the one I purchased (Looks like they changed the paint from red to black). It worked fine for both the front and rear springs. I've loaned it out to another DMC owner and he was also able to use it without any issues. To get the really tall front springs out you just need to grab as many coils as possible so you can compress the spring short enough.

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

One word of caution, when reinstalling the front springs don't take the load off the spring compressor until you've got the shock reinstalled. It case the spring were to suddenly come loose or isn't seated properly in the upper/lower cups the shock will prevent it the spring from flying out.

You'll also want to support the LCA as you are taking the springs in and out. Once you remove the shock during spring removal and until the shock is reinstalled during spring installation the spring can cause the LCA to over roatate downward and crush itself up against the frame, possibly damaging the frame or the LCA.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38158&d=1448135914

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32614&d=1421856307

Ryan King

11-21-2015, 03:10 PM

These are the best ones I have used thus far. I have tried a lot of the different brands that were posted here in this thread, but having removed my springs on multiple occasions, I was getting fed up. The craftsman ones have been the best so far. Although I have yet to try that jaw/claw looking one, but would consider trying that method.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-strut-spring-compressor-tool-with-built-in/p-00947057000P

38159

These have a nice low profile and are very heavy duty. They also include locking pins so they don't come loose. Really smooth to wrench down. It cut my removal time almost in half compared to the Harbor Freight special. Made in the USA. Buy em while you still can. And I believe they also have the "Lifetime" warranty.

Rich_NYS

11-21-2015, 05:37 PM

Exactly the info I'm looking for; both are reasonably priced and both have safety features.

Thanks!

Ryan King

11-21-2015, 11:38 PM

This is the one I purchased (Looks like they changed the paint from red to black). It worked fine for both the front and rear springs. I've loaned it out to another DMC owner and he was also able to use it without any issues. To get the really tall front springs out you just need to grab as many coils as possible so you can compress the spring short enough.

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

One word of caution, when reinstalling the front springs don't take the load off the spring compressor until you've got the shock reinstalled. It case the spring were to suddenly come loose or isn't seated properly in the upper/lower cups the shock will prevent it the spring from flying out.

You'll also want to support the LCA as you are taking the springs in and out. Once you remove the shock during spring removal and until the shock is reinstalled during spring installation the spring can cause the LCA to over roatate downward and crush itself up against the frame, possibly damaging the frame or the LCA.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38158&d=1448135914

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32614&d=1421856307

The only downside I can see to this is you actually have to remove the upper control arm. I dont see how you could use this set up without doing so. Or Am I wrong?

Bitsyncmaster

11-22-2015, 04:29 AM

The only downside I can see to this is you actually have to remove the upper control arm. I dont see how you could use this set up without doing so. Or Am I wrong?

I think you would need to lift the upper arm with the double screw ones also to get enough room. I removed my springs with the inside screw type with moving the upper arm.

Mark D

11-23-2015, 08:38 AM

The only downside I can see to this is you actually have to remove the upper control arm. I dont see how you could use this set up without doing so. Or Am I wrong?

Yeah the upper control arm needs to come off for maximum clearance. I think when I was removing the first spring I just had the UCA lifted up out of the way but it needed to come off eventually anyway so I just removed it. Those craftsman spring compressors look really nice also. I can imagine it's a little easier to get them installed on the spring than one large compressor where it can be a bit of a task to get the hooks to grab in the right spots

88KPH

11-23-2015, 04:45 PM

Yeah, whatever you do, don't copy me.......... :lol:

38205

er1c

02-18-2021, 02:26 PM

I thought I would post on this thread as it has been one of the most helpful on replacing the front springs and I have seen so few posts with these type of compressors fitted.

These have always been my Nemesis and I have always worried about doing them The most useful pic in this thread is the one with the clamps on the springs outside of the Delorean. I counted the coils before the compressor was fitted (2 on bottom 1 on top) based on jmettees post.

I am now at last confident of doing mine and can say, yes they are do-able with regular spring compressors but its a tight fit and there isn't much between not enough compression and the spring starting to bind on the spring compressor itself.

My main advice would be DONT try and shove them in, my biggest mistake was with the compressors on to try and compress a bit more and shove them in, this only resulted in my spring compressors sensing the extra space and slipping around to the back of the spring (Inside) and me shatting my pants.

If it isn't right just un-do, and start again.

Hope these pics may help..... The Zip ties serve no purpose other than peace of mind for me, to stop the slip and reduce any issues should they slip around again.

65628

65629

65630

65631

Note : The upper control arm ISNT related to the compression on the spring.... i.e (I can swap the upper control arm now without compressing the spring) This is an important point as I originally was under the impression UCA - SPRING - LCA touch any of the two and its KAPOW... but its UPPER CHASSIS MOUNT - SPRING - LCA.

Final Picture all done.

65632

I did try the inner coil spring compressors but I found more difficulty removing them than the benefits they gave.,