FNG checking and asking a ton of questions, Hi my name is BOB.

[brotherbob]

And I have a 81 DMC in my barn that belongs to a retired friend of mine.
VIN 2826
Its a automatic car , 40K miles , and has not ran in 15 years!:elmo1:
I believe the fuel pump is DOA but want to make sure a relay or interia switch isnt bad first. I have been asked to make the car road worthy so that is my mission .
I have a mechanical background and feel up to the challenge .
So far...
1. Installed a battery .
2. Poured some fuel in it , she was BONE DRY.
3. Checked vital fluids-oil,trans,brakes,h2o...
4. Tried to crank it -turns over , has spark , no fuel..has Oil pressure and tach bounces.
5. Poured a cup of fuel down the air meter and cranked it, fired right up.
So what next....
1. Test the FP relay , RPM relay ..?
2. Does the drivers door being open prevent the fuel pump from running ? The owner says it has a safety switch built in?????????? I think he might be mistaken.
Anyhow hey folks ,I'm Bob and I need help!
BB:hihi:

[jawn101]

Welcome Bob. 2 things I can say right away are:

- Don't try to run this car without flushing the fuel system!! You will only cause yourself a huge amount of trouble later. Lots of threads on this and other owners can attest with more personal stories.
- The safety switch your friend is referring to is the inertia switch that cuts the fuel pump in a crash. Not related to the drivers door, but the switch is in the drivers side footwell behind the carpet.

Good luck! Post some pics of the car!

[brotherbob]

VIN 02826
OK roger the tip on not running the car ...this car was drained of fuel and ran until empty as I have not found any contaminants so far in lines or filters....but better safe than sorry.

So the door switches have nothing to do with the pump or cranking...good !
Some knubskull pulled the wires out of the door frame and had paperclips shoved in em!!! Now I can tidy that up.
I found the inertia switch in the foot well and it appears to function/ resets. I put a 12 volt wire from the battery to the FP and it just knocks once but does not pump.
Guess I'll drop the tank , clean it , pull the pump ,sender and redo all the hoses.
Next ?
BB

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean001.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean013.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean009.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean016.jpg

There should be a few pics for ya!
BB

[jawn101]

Looks really promising! Definitely clean the tank, replace the fuel filter, etc. Obviously you know the fuel pump is disconnected in that third photo... :)

But of course, this is just to make the engine turn over. Roadworthy is a journey, not a goal... You have lots and lots more to do :)

[Jonathan]

You can jumper the RPM relay to see if the fuel pump goes or not. Not sure about percentages, but others have had troubles with faulty RPM relays killing their fuel injection.

You can double check everything in that fuse and relay area to make sure it looks like this:

7105

The inertia switch had a recall to change where it got mounted. Doesn't really matter all that much other than the plunger side should be up, i.e. so gravity keeps it pressed down. So that if one day your car is upside down, the plunger retracts under gravity going the other way. Not likely your problem though as if it is shot, you wouldn't even get that first pump out of the fuel pump.

Ahhhh, haaaa... just thought of something. You said it was an automatic right? If the transmission shifter is not all the way up into park, it won't let you start the car. Not sure that's it, but something else to try. I had this stump me momentarily one day when I tried to start the car after shutting it off in gear, and hadn't moved it back to Park.

Good luck. Post your progress back here and we'll think of some other stuff...

[jmettee]

When you replace the fuel pump, get new fuel injection hose (pump puts out approx 80 PSI...ensure you get proper rated hose). Also, junk those worm-screw clamps & use proper fuel-injection hose clamps.

The fact it runs & also was supposedly drained is good. Once you get a good pump in there, you'll probably be good. Good idea to flush the fuel system, just to be sure!

[DMC3165]

Two years ago I revived 3165 from a seven year sleep and got it to run the very same day. Only long enough to get it out from where it was and position it so it could be loaded onto a trailer.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to the fuel pump had locked up. In my case the tank was still half full and the gas had turned into molasses. But after draining the tank and beating on the pump for 15 minutes we freed it up. Of course it had to be replaced shortly thereafter but it sounds like you are having a similar issue.

Also it's probably a good idea to change the fuel accumulator. Mine was totally screwed and I was having a "hot start" issue because of it. Also the lines going to and from the accumulator underneath are the #1 reason for DeLorean fuel related fires. Best to change all that stuff just to be safe.

Good Luck and thanks for reviving another D!

[vwdmc16]

Actually the inertia switch is related to the doors!

when tripped it is supposed to unlock the doors, weather or not it does is another story


But it looks like an awesome project, looks to be in the same dusty state mine was in when i bought mine

[WelmoedJ]

Actually the inertia switch is related to the doors!
When tripped it is supposed to unlock the doors, weather or not it does is another story


And... as said previously: block power to the fuel pump when tripped (you wouldn't like to see yourself flooded in fuel once upside down, wouldn't you?

[brotherbob]

All great ideas and suggestions ,thank you!
I was researching the VIN 02826 and noticed that it was on a dealer listing as a "Engineering/testcar/ Engineering car Olson Engine " What the devil does that mean ?

Also can someone give the part numbers for the....
1.Fuel pump
2.Accumulator
3.F Filter
4.Oil Filter
5.What weight oil to run in this engine ?

I wanna verify what I'm thinking are the right parts.

Thanks a ton , I'll keep track of progress right here unless it should be somewhere else.
BB

[WelmoedJ]

All great ideas and suggestions ,thank you!
I was researching the VIN 02826 and noticed that it was on a dealer listing as a "Engineering/testcar/ Engineering car Olson Engine " What the devil does that mean ?
Don't know....

Also can someone give the part numbers for the....
1.Fuel pump >>>>> Bosch 0-580-254-973
2.Accumulator >>>>> Bosch 0-438-170-029
3.F Filter >>>>> AC: GF519, Fram: G3747, Volvo: ('81-264)
4.Oil Filter >>>>> AC: PF-13; Bosch: 5401; Champion: PH-228; NAPA: 1084 or 1307; Peugeot: 1109.45; Purflux: LS410B or LS410A; Purolator: FC109-1or PC134 or PER 17 or PER 1; Renault: AW 261-2; Wix: 15.
I myself use a VAG compatible filter by FRAM: PH2870A.

5.What weight oil to run in this engine ?
>>>> Multigrade service SF, >20° C/64°F SAE 20W/50; -20°C~+40°C (2°F~102°F) SAE 10W/40 (most used)

I wanna verify what I'm thinking are the right parts.

Thanks a ton , I'll keep track of progress right here unless it should be somewhere else.
BB[/QUOTE]

See the info directly following the belonging part.

You didn't mention spark plugs: standard is Bosch HR6DS, though I prefer NGK BPR6EFS (cooler type than Bosch HR6DS).

For coolant I now use G12+ (the red long lasting one, also used by VAG). Suits me and my D fine.

[DMCMW Dave]

1.Fuel pump
2.Accumulator
3.F Filter
4.Oil Filter
5.What weight oil to run in this engine ?

I wanna verify what I'm thinking are the right parts.

Thanks a ton , I'll keep track of progress right here unless it should be somewhere else.
BB

http://store.delorean.com/c-274-2-1-0-tankhosespumpaccumulatoretc.aspx

20W50 is the spec oil for 32 degrees and up, but you'll start a religious argument.

[David T]

You do not have to remove the tank to clean it. Use Acetone and proper safety precautions. Replace the pump "just because". If the system was drained you may be OK but you may still want to check the injector's spray pattern and maybe have them cleaned and tested. Once you get it running you should replace just about the whole cooling system for reliability. Make sure the transmission has the right amount of fluids, there is a separate level check for the final drive. Get a Workshop Manual. The brake system will probably have to be rebuilt. The tires will have to be replaced, the struts too. Lubricate the front end. Getting it to run is only a small part of this. To make it reliable will take a LOT of time and money.
David Teitelbaum

[DMCVegas]

http://store.delorean.com/c-274-2-1-0-tankhosespumpaccumulatoretc.aspx

20W50 is the spec oil for 32 degrees and up, but you'll start a religious argument.

Not only that, it's also spec for temperatures above 102°F, which is only a few places in the U.S. (or elsewhere). The best compromise I ever had for fuel economy and easy starting was to alternate weights between the seasons. I'd use 20W50 in the summer months when we had sustained triple-digit heat, but would switch to 10W40 for the other 3 seasons. Otherwise I could hear the starter working harder in the colder temps until I switched over.

Weight isn't so much the religious argument with oil as brand is. :biggrin:

[sean]

Weight isn't so much the religious argument with oil as brand is. :biggrin:

Either way, lets consider the oil discussion over. :thankyou:

[brotherbob]

Thanks again folks,
I'm quoting parts and see a easy 600-1000 in parts right off the get go. I'll get that on order and meanwhile pull the tank, pump ,accum,filters and clean this puppy up some while I wait on parts.
I build old VWs , airboats and vintage cars/trucks for a hobby , this one doesn't scare me any. Its kinda like a big kit car built from all kinds of different parts! No offense..:giggle:
Has anyone developed a " weatherpack" or connection kit for one of these cars ? It seems every electrical connection is suspect when you remove and inspect it!
BB

[DMCMW Dave]

Has anyone developed a " weatherpack" or connection kit for one of these cars ? It seems every electrical connection is suspect when you remove and inspect it!
BB

Not that I know of, and the world would beat a path to your door!

You are correct - apparently some electrical designers back then didn't think electrical contacts getting wet was a big deal. :eek5:

[D Knight]

I replace every connector I need to service with weatherpacks. The first was a custom harness for the fuel pump as my original had some nice corrosion on it when I bought the car. Never have I had a problem with them. Very reliable.

[Farrar]

I replace every connector I need to service with weatherpacks.

+1. Easy to install once you get the hang of it (and the proper crimp tool) and the peace of mind is excellent.

Farrar

[brotherbob]

I've had a bunch of old cars and trucks in my old shop/ barn over the years but that doggone Delorean sure does attract a bunch of attention....I'm afraid to leave my barn doors open because everyone wants to stop by and see the car...
Kinda crazy...:lockdance:
BB

[Jonathan]

I've had a bunch of old cars and trucks in my old shop/ barn over the years but that doggone Delorean sure does attract a bunch of attention....I'm afraid to leave my barn doors open because everyone wants to stop by and see the car...
Kinda crazy...:lockdance:
BB

Welcome to the world of DeLorean's Bob, where minding your own business doesn't apply :)

A favorite quote of mine from a magazine article "Even 30 years later, people that don't know cars know what a DeLorean is."

[DMCMW Dave]

I've had a bunch of old cars and trucks in my old shop/ barn over the years but that doggone Delorean sure does attract a bunch of attention....I'm afraid to leave my barn doors open because everyone wants to stop by and see the car...
Kinda crazy...:lockdance:
BB

Wait until you start driving it and people chase you down the road with cameras. Every gas station is a car show. . .

[sean]

Wait until you start driving it and people chase you down the road with cameras.

Reminds me of my very first ride as an owner. Picked it up from the PO and drove it home all the while cars would speed up past me, hit the breaks and turn their heads.

[brotherbob]

Who makes the master cylinder ? Or better yet what is the part number ?
I have all the parts identified or cross referenced but for some reason I don't find the brake master cylinder P/N ?

[PlutonimicX]

Here you go, Bob. Nearly anything you need to find on the car you can find on this web site.

Master Cylinder: http://store.delorean.com/p-7478-master-cylinder-brake.aspx

[MartyP]

The PO was right about one thing, he Told me:

"Dont take the car out when you dont want to talk to people"



The dream does live on. You really feel like a star in that car.

Cause yes people stop you for pictures etc....it is actually more crazy then I thought !

[brotherbob]

Getting ready for some new parts....;)
[IMG]http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean002.jpg

[jawn101]

Getting ready for some new parts....;)
[IMG]http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean002.jpg

Nice! I hope door/louver/boot struts are on that list :) Also, do you have the front end jacked up or is it really that nose high?

[brotherbob]

Its really that nose high ! Looks odd to me also , no gas or weight in the nose.

[Chris Burns]

Cool project Delorean! Good luck with it. Good community of Delorean owners here.

[DMCTek]

Hi Bob,
Welcome to the community. I know this was mentioned earlier but just a reminder. You do not have to remove the tank to clean it. Get some rags and carb cleaner and wipe out any sticky old gas and sediment. You should flush the lines out as well before you try starting it.

[brotherbob]

Well update 4 DEC 2011
It is entirely possible to lock yourself out of a Delorean with the keys in the ignition and on. I had rolled both toll booth windows down a inch or so ....that and a bent antenna I got it open...Wheeeeew:hmm:
Car is cleaned up in side and out. I have heat in my barn now too , waiting on parts coming this week. Maybe next weekend the D will crank off the key..
BB

[jawn101]

Well update 4 DEC 2011
It is entirely possible to lock yourself out of a Delorean with the keys in the ignition and on. I had rolled both toll booth windows down a inch or so ....that and a bent antenna I got it open...Wheeeeew:hmm:
Car is cleaned up in side and out. I have heat in my barn now too , waiting on parts coming this week. Maybe next weekend the D will crank off the key..
BB

Possible to lock yourself IN a DeLorean, too :) Sounds like a Family Guy cutaway (and it was), but in this car... well, just be sure your lock mechanisms are in perfect working order before locking those doors....

[brotherbob]

Update- 10 Dec 2011
Changed out all 6 gas struts that keep all the doors, hood and deck open.
Cleaned the fuel tank , disassembled the fuel pump , reassembled the fuel pump , new fuel lines, blew air through all of em' , installed new fuel filter and replaced some fuel line under the deck.

Lots of new parts via DMC Texas.

She fired up but does not want to idle and does not like a cold start....
I'm beat , I'll take another look in the AM when I've got past the fact she started for the 1st time in 15+ years!!!!!
BB:cool1:

[Jonathan]

Good news Bob. Glad to hear you're making progress. Check the adjustment of the lever arm off the throttle spool to see that it is engaging the idle speed motor microswitch. When you say it doesn't idle, does the engine die? or is it that it idles high or all over the place or something?

[brotherbob]

It will crank , fire and rev 2000-4000 rpm but as soon as you take your foot off the gas it dies and does not want to re start for a few minutes.

Going back out there with a cup of coffee and a buddy of mine to see if we can figure it out today...been doing some reading on fuel accumulators and RPM reley and cold start valves.

Funny thing ,I pour fuel in the air meter she fires right up, first crank.

On fuel from the tank , it takes a while and neither way will she idle.

I'm gonna put new plugs in it today and clean the fuel distributor and nozzles.

BB

[jawn101]

It will crank , fire and rev 2000-4000 rpm but as soon as you take your foot off the gas it dies and does not want to re start for a few minutes.

Going back out there with a cup of coffee and a buddy of mine to see if we can figure it out today...been doing some reading on fuel accumulators and RPM reley and cold start valves.

Funny thing ,I pour fuel in the air meter she fires right up, first crank.

On fuel from the tank , it takes a while and neither way will she idle.

I'm gonna put new plugs in it today and clean the fuel distributor and nozzles.

BB

Be really careful with the fuel distrubutor... it's not a good idea to take apart the distributor itself (the black unit at the top of the mixture control assembly) as you may never get it back together :) Replacements are very expensive and professional rebuilds are costly and take time.

Good luck!

[David T]

Pull an injector and look at the spray pattern. You probably need to have all of the injectors cleaned and tested.
David Teitelbaum

[brotherbob]

OK boys , update 11 DEC 2011- IT RUNS AND DRIVES-
The fuel pump relay-rpm relay is bad-
There is some shenanigans going on with the cooling fan relay- it aint there and someone has a 3 sided jumper in place.

Drove around the hood and back in the shop to change the oil , then I looked at the drain plug .......*&%*^%#%@$% what the hell size is that ?:hippo:

More to come...
BB

[jawn101]

OK boys , update 11 DEC 2011- IT RUNS AND DRIVES-
The fuel pump relay-rpm relay is bad-
There is some shenanigans going on with the cooling fan relay- it aint there and someone has a 3 sided jumper in place.

Drove around the hood and back in the shop to change the oil , then I looked at the drain plug .......*&%*^%#%@$% what the hell size is that ?:hippo:

More to come...
BB

Cool! If by cooling fan relay you mean the blue socket (or black one with blue stickers) to the far left of the relay compartment, then that's fine - that jumper is supposed to be there. That socket is for the failure detector that illuminates the telltale on the dashboard, and was prone to failure. A TSB (http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-06-9.82.html) recommended the removal of the unit and replacement with the three-prong jumper instead. Solid state replacements that actually do the intended job now exist, but are not necessary (although I do have one)

The drain plug can be removed with this tool http://store.delorean.com/p-9097-drain-plug-socket.aspx - or you can make your own out of metal stock. It's just 8mm square.

[brotherbob]

Man what a day.
Good to know about the cooling fan relay , thanks .
Here's some pics of today's repairs , FYI this car will be for sale soon according to the owners they want to make the car run and drive safely , then sell it.
On with the pics.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean036.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean022.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean023.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean026.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean027.jpg
That tank was NASTY ! Thanks for all the help DMCTALK ya'll have been a life saver for a so-so backyard mechanic !!
Went for a drive today , boy does this car need a master cylinder , RPM relay and some more time running !
BB

[Chris Burns]

Yikes! What a nasty fuel pump. That's one of the easier things to fix on the Delorean fortunately. Do you know what price range they may be looking for?

[jawn101]

Man what a day.
Good to know about the cooling fan relay , thanks .
Here's some pics of today's repairs , FYI this car will be for sale soon according to the owners they want to make the car run and drive safely , then sell it.
On with the pics.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss169/brotherbobbagwell/1981DMCDelorean036.jpg

That tank was NASTY ! Thanks for all the help DMCTALK ya'll have been a life saver for a so-so backyard mechanic !!
Went for a drive today , boy does this car need a master cylinder , RPM relay and some more time running !
BB

That relay compartment needs a little love... you have incorrect fuses in positions 5 and 12, which indicates something was probably blowing at some point and the owner over-amped the fuse to compensate. And for some reason there's a standard relay in the socket for your dome light timer? I wonder if that relay is the reason the PO put a 30 amp fuse in position 12 - that's the interior lights, which are tied to that relay socket and should be a 15A fuse, you've got a 30A and an ISO relay instead of a timer resistor.

I actually sort of envy you having all these great "improvements" to discover ;-) Good work so far though!

EDIT: Just noticed your starter mod wire, it was hard to see on my iphone :)

[brotherbob]

That relay compartment needs a little love... you have incorrect fuses in positions 5 and 12, which indicates something was probably blowing at some point and the owner over-amped the fuse to compensate. And for some reason there's a standard relay in the socket for your dome light timer? I wonder if that relay is the reason the PO put a 30 amp fuse in position 12 - that's the interior lights, which are tied to that relay socket and should be a 15A fuse, you've got a 30A and an ISO relay instead of a timer resistor.

I actually sort of envy you having all these great "improvements" to discover ;-) Good work so far though!

EDIT: Just noticed your starter mod wire, it was hard to see on my iphone :)

If you know what needs to be where , please circle those problems and tell me what needs to be there!! I do not have a manual and only work with what is here on DMC talk.

In other words I need all the help I can get. Now I get to research Master Cylinder replacement and RPM relay part numbers , repairs.

Thanks ,
BB

[Chris Burns]

Brotherbob, here is some links to the entire tech manual from DMC News.com

http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html

[jawn101]

Brotherbob, here is some links to the entire tech manual from DMC News.com

http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html

Beat me to it, that's a great resource though Bob. Also, this thread has a lot of great marked up and detailed wiring schematics, a lot of great people put a lot of time into creating these. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

And, here's a re-post of the relay compartment diagram for your perusal. Do your interior lights work? If not, I think you'll find that if you just pull the relay from the socket labeled #25 on here (third from the left on the relay strip closest to you) they'll start again.

But this may be getting into the restoration/repair details - if your friend is planning to sell this car, it will increase the value to fix all these little things. Flipside is that you'll basically be restoring the whole car yourself :)

[brotherbob]

Oh dear lord !

THANKS A MILLION ! That's just what I needed !

FYI - no the interior lights do not work, and the light in the engine compartment does not work and looks "iffy" , kinda like it got too hot.

:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notwo rthy::notworthy::notworthy:

I must admit I hate electrical work but I muttle through .
BB

[brotherbob]

UPDATE 18 DEC 2011-
Car now starts and runs from the key first crank- all fuel work complete-
On to brakes, I ordered and rec'd my new master cylinder, bench bled it and installed it but I can not get fluid to 3 of the calipers ? LF yes , everything else is a dry hole?
I'm gonna leave the bleeders open a bit over night and see if it will drip.
Any hot tips or tricks here? Maybe I need to rebuild the calipers ?
Fuse box sorted and relays replaced too.
Oil/filter changed for the first time in 16 years.
I drove the car but it dont stop for ca-ca!
BB

[outatym2001]

brotherbob
Speaking as a non-mechanic but I’ve owned my DeLorean ten years and ten months in my paranoia I replaced all four brake calipers and all four flexible brake fluid lines because other people had seizing brakes. I replaced them myself even before there was any hint of a problem.
Other peoples issues were rusty pistons seizing inside the calipers. A new and improved part comes with stainless steel pistons.
Other people had an occasional brake lock up and it was found that the interior of the original rubber brake fluid line had deteriorated and pieces of the rubber line were causing a blockage inside.
I bought the rebuilt brake calipers back in July, 2006 from John Hervey and I've had zero problems.
http://www.deloreanautoparts.com/

A thread started by Mike below.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2552-John-Hervey-Deloreanautoparts.com-loaded-calipers-Thank-you-John!

I highly recommend using Castrol GTLMA hydraulic fluid for your brakes and clutch. It is safe for DOT 3 and DOT 4 applications.
DMC Northwest uses CARQUEST Auto Parts synthetic brake fluid because they are very close to their business and they deliver for free.

[DMCTek]

UPDATE 18 DEC 2011-
Car now starts and runs from the key first crank- all fuel work complete-
On to brakes, I ordered and rec'd my new master cylinder, bench bled it and installed it but I can not get fluid to 3 of the calipers ? LF yes , everything else is a dry hole?
I'm gonna leave the bleeders open a bit over night and see if it will drip.
Any hot tips or tricks here? Maybe I need to rebuild the calipers ?
Fuse box sorted and relays replaced too.
Oil/filter changed for the first time in 16 years.
I drove the car but it dont stop for ca-ca!
BB

No fluid when bleeding usually points to a blocked up hose. Try cracking loose the hard line fitting upstream of the hose and see if you get fluid there.

Simple caliper test is to see if the pistons will retract with a pair of channel locks. If they are frozen you can rebuild the calipers with a seal set and replace any pitted brake pistons.

[David T]

If the car has been sitting for many years and/or the brake fluid has not been changed for a LONG time don't waste any time on the brake system. Replace or rebuild the 4 calipers, replacing the pistons and replace the master cylinder. If the fluid is dark and thick the system is all corroded inside. Ditto for the clutch master and slave. Since you said the brakes are non-operating it is safe to assume the pistons are so corroded that they are seized in the caliper bores. Even if you were to get them to move the system would leak. The brake lines can be flushed with alcohol, the flexible lines should be replaced just because they are over 25 years old. If the plastic clutch line is still in the car it should be replaced with the S/S braided line. Does the car restart when hot? If it doesn't you probably have to replace the fuel accumulator. Get the Emergency brake going so you have some braking ability.
David Teitelbaum

[brotherbob]

The car is a automatic.
The parking brake works fine , the M/C is new and so is the fluid but the calipers are stuck and no fluid passes in 3 of them. So...
New rubber lines , tear down inspection of the calipers and order more parts.
The car starts fine now ,hot or cold and runs good. Thanks for all yall's help this is the second Delorean I've worked on in 20 + years and they are a bit different !!:smashfreak:
Someone needs to make the owner an offer he cant refuse and I can go back to working on my 59 VW Double cab truck...;)

[dvonk]

...I can go back to working on my 59 VW Double cab truck...;)

pics? :biggrin:

[brotherbob]

pics? :biggrin:

Not the place and its more like a 59-60-61 Johnny Cash VW DC truck!;)

[brotherbob]

Ok gents this little build is coming to a end . I'm replacing all fuses ,relays etc. in the rear parcel shelf and this DMC is going back home. The owner has decided not to spend any more money on it. I just charged the real price of parts and a small amount in labor just trying to get it to sellable shape for him as he is a bit older and not seen the car run in 16 years.
It needs all the calipers rebuilt , the brake hoses replaced but he just wants to sell it.
It runs now , the doors,deck and hood stay open now and it still needs some love. I tried to buy the car but its out of my price range. The owner is of the opinion the car is worth 10-15K . The car is a 81 and has 40,000 miles, the body is free of dents and scratches ,interior needs some loving , all glass is good. new FP,FF,OF,MC and lots of small goodies. OG keys, data plate still in the door frame.
I suspect it will be posted here ,Ebay and Craigslist in the next month or so. So heads up if you wanna spend 10-15K ?
Thanks for your help ,its been fun working on this car and chattin' with all of you.
BB

[DMC3165]

With the economy the way it is (IMHO) 10-15K for this car with non operational brakes is a fair asking price. I'd expect it will sell for around 11. I say this only because I recently had my brakes redone professionally and it was $1800. After parts and labor.Best of luck with the sale.

[jawn101]

Congrats on the success Bob. Hope it goes to someone that will work as hard and fast as you did! It's a great little car, don't give up on buying it just yet... :)

[Chris Burns]

Doesn't seem like too bad of a deal for the price. Wish I was able to own a Delorean right now.:sad30: