What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[cycleroland]

4516 was a bit soft on the clutch pedal. Checked underneith and saw the clutch master cylinder a bit "wheepy". Replaced both cylinders. The D is feeling much better. :-D

~Roland

[John U]

Finished replacing the accumulator and took it out for the first drive of the year! After driving my 928 for the last month, the DMC feels like a donkey-cart....still brings lots of smiles though!!!

[DavidProehl]

Installed an idler pulley bearing I've had in a box for a while, I was getting a high pitch squeal from the old one so I figured it was time. Should have replaced both when I did the other one previously, but didn't have the right tools at the time so had to wait until now.

[jawn101]

Went to do an inventory of needed parts to refresh my fuel pump. Decided against my better (short-term) financial judgement to just get the new pump combo unit. Check your email, Midwest folks...

Started planning my garage overhaul to make more room for tools and supplies. Since buying the D my storage needs have certainly ballooned from a screwdriver and a weed whacker...

[vwdmc16]

I continued headliner repairs and found the source of my cooling fan failure. Also discovered one of my dash lights was flickering because the bulb went bad, found another bad LED too. Time to order more.

[DashEight]

Today I reassembled everything from the tank (freshly steam cleaned) back to the engine on my car. New fuel pump and soft lines, pick up filter, and wiring. I pulled and installed a new accumulator and replaced the fuel filter. The accumulator went well....THAT F'N fuel filter was another story. Who on earth put that damn thing there? I also ziptied the fuel and water lines away from the exhaust manifolds. 4.5 hours of work in on the D today. Felt good, now my arm hurts.

[Ryan S.]

I continued headliner repairs and found the source of my cooling fan failure. Also discovered one of my dash lights was flickering because the bulb went bad, found another bad LED too. Time to order more.
Clint,
What was the source of your cooling fan failure?

[DrJeff]

Continued body work on the lower engine lid, I really hope the reinforcements last and dont crack again.

Can you say more about the reinforcements you put in?

I've been thinking about an AL bar (1/8in) across the back of the engine cover between the brackets. Painted black and bolted through to the engine side if the cover. The goal being to counteract rt he bend when the cover is suspended on the point in the middle.

[Ron]

Can you say more about the reinforcements you put in?

I've been thinking about an AL bar (1/8in) across the back of the engine cover between the brackets. Painted black and bolted through to the engine side if the cover. The goal being to counteract rt he bend when the cover is suspended on the point in the middle.
That's what I did, except I put it almost all the way across on the back side (else I'd post a pic) and used pop rivets (better hold and harder to see).

[Dangermouse]

Took 2743 for an short evening drive to return DVDs.

Combination of no inst cluster lights and nasty burning smell forced a hasty retreat. Noted that the lighting rheostat was too hot to touch. Not good. Spent a fraught 15 minutes after shutting her off watching in case of spontaneous combustion.

Assuming that the rheostat is the culprit, I think I will be decommissioning it and using a 3-way jumper instead. $100 for a replacement seems pointless for a feature I don’t need anyway.

[MML]

Combination of no inst cluster lights and nasty burning smell forced a hasty retreat... ...watching in case of spontaneous combustion.


:eek1: Yikes!!! Horrible feeling, I know all too well...

[pezzonovante88]

(Yesterday) Applied POR-15 to some areas requiring touch-ups in the rear of the car. It is now rock hard and no more unsightly little rusty areas. Now I just have to find some grey paint that looks right. (I can't get Rustoleum Smoke Grey here).
Also, good idea or bad idea: painting the hidden side of the fuel tank closing plate with POR-15 after brake fluid damage?

[John U]

That's what I did to my closing plate. Turned out great

[DMCMW Dave]

Also, good idea or bad idea: painting the hidden side of the fuel tank closing plate with POR-15 after brake fluid damage?

Great idea. Uncoated it will rust out from the inside. that is where all the rainwater from the windshield goes.

[pezzonovante88]

Great idea. Uncoated it will rust out from the inside. that is where all the rainwater from the windshield goes.

lol, so weird. Well, maybe I'll get to it this weekend.

[thirdmanj]

With 1258 now in daily driver status, I'm becoming most adept at removing door panels...FML.

[dmc6960]

After getting new tires ordered at the local TireRack yesterday, I decided to take a good look at the tires I have now. I knew I was getting a few bald spots, but boy was I wrong! I got chords showing on one of them! :ohcrap: She'll sit now until the new tires are mounted. On the plus side, my new radio, a Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS should arrive in the mail today or tomorrow. Should be able to get that installed this weekend.

[dmc6960]

With 1258 now in daily driver status, I'm becoming most adept at removing door panels...FML.

And no longer casually for sale?

[thirdmanj]

And no longer casually for sale?

Meh. ;)

[DeLorean03]

Changed the cap and rotor to evidently finally solve the miss I was experiencing. Installed 6 new injectors as well.

[Tillsy]

Eight hours of hell replacing the front left suspension spring (and shock at same time) - what an absolute b#tch that was!

Reckon I have it licked though, front right should only take two hours but won't get to that for another week.

Will aim for rears over next few days as they look piss easy to me.

[jawn101]

Washed and shined it up for the British show on Sunday. Dug out the Mr. Clean Autodry thing I bought years ago (before the D even) and decided to give it a try. It did a fantastic, effortless job on the stainless and I will be using that from now on.

Also wiped down every inch of vinyl and leather inside with a damp microfiber. I can't remember the last time I bothered to do that and the results were awesome. I didn't realize how dirty everything was :) Vinyl cleaners be damned, I say.

Still having water coming in to the passenger side footwell from the blower motor when I wash it slanted on the driveway though. Not sure what to do about that. The drain isn't blocked, but I guess because of the incline of my driveway the box doesn't drain properly and water comes from the blower cooling tube.

Edit: Wow, I'm dumb. I just thought of this after 3 years.... park the car nose down...

[Lenny]

I had to go to the Dentist so I thought I'd at least have some fun so I drove the Delorean. Stopped by FedEx to mail a package and a guy walked up and asked to take a picture. He waited till I came out. While in FedEx one of the employees looked out and screamed I think that's a Delorean. I told him it was mine and he followed me out. When he saw the guy taking a picture he asked also. So I raised the doors and took pictures of them standing buy the car with their cell phones.

[MML]

I spent this afternoon removing the old foam under the parcel shelf - it smelled really bad. Discovered a mouse nest behind the rear bulkhead panel!! They had chewed quite a bit of foam. They had almost chewed through some wires but only removed the black wrapping... the little farkers...
The shelf foam was really tough to remove, it broke up as I pulled it away. Some of it was practically welded to the fibreglass and had to be taken off with a paint scraper.

http://i.imgur.com/yLFPkew.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hs38JQF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/L3gcItk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8TdZHTy.jpg

[jawn101]

I spent this afternoon removing the old foam under the parcel shelf - it smelled really bad. Discovered a mouse nest behind the rear bulkhead panel!! They had chewed quite a bit of foam. They had almost chewed through some wires but only removed the black wrapping... the little farkers...
The shelf foam was really tough to remove, it broke up as I pulled it away. Some of it was practically welded to the fibreglass and had to be taken off with a paint scraper.

http://i.imgur.com/yLFPkew.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hs38JQF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/L3gcItk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8TdZHTy.jpg


Some Scrubbing Bubbles or Kaboom foaming cleaner (or your local equivalent, this is the stuff I mean http://www.amazon.com/Church-Kaboom-Foamtastic-35270-Cleaners/dp/B003R1RNOA/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1368847906&sr=1-2&keywords=kaboom+foam) will melt that foam right off the fiberglass, along with any dirt, etc. And as a bonus the fiberglass will be gleaming black and so sterile you can eat off it (smells nice too, which is a bonus if you had mold or mice, etc). Spray it on, wait til it turns white, then wipe up all the old foam residue and glue and such in one pass. When I did my car I didn't even scrape up the old carpet pad. I just sprayed this stuff all over everything and came back in a half hour.

As a bonus, it also works wonders on any other exposed fiberglass in the car - the boot, engine bay, wheel wells, undercarriage... you name it.

[MML]

Some Scrubbing Bubbles or Kaboom foaming cleaner (or your local equivalent, this is the stuff I mean http://www.amazon.com/Church-Kaboom-Foamtastic-35270-Cleaners/dp/B003R1RNOA/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1368847906&sr=1-2&keywords=kaboom+foam) will melt that foam right off the fiberglass, along with any dirt, etc. And as a bonus the fiberglass will be gleaming black and so sterile you can eat off it (smells nice too, which is a bonus if you had mold or mice, etc). Spray it on, wait til it turns white, then wipe up all the old foam residue and glue and such in one pass. When I did my car I didn't even scrape up the old carpet pad. I just sprayed this stuff all over everything and came back in a half hour.

As a bonus, it also works wonders on any other exposed fiberglass in the car - the boot, engine bay, wheel wells, undercarriage... you name it.

Well I'll be damned. I wonder if we can get that over here. I'll have a look for it!

[dmc6960]

Installed a new radio. Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS which is one of their higher-end 2013 CD receivers. Has a built in HD radio tuner, "satellite ready" with tuner which I also bought, direct iPhone compatibility, and my favorite: custom color illumination. I have that now set at a matching green to the AC decal. Sounds way way better then the cheap low-end Sony radio I installed in 2001.

[Domi]

I've worked on my hot start problem.
So, I've changed those two seal without any problem.
Now, the fuel accumulator is another story :confused2:
To unscrew the four bolt wasn't easy, but finally I made it.
I spend the all afternoon on those two big bolt to unscrew them and change the two hoses, but it was impossible.
I'll try later, as a friend on the French forum advice me to unbolt them from the inside of the car.

[pezzonovante88]

Installed a new radio. Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS which is one of their higher-end 2013 CD receivers. Has a built in HD radio tuner, "satellite ready" with tuner which I also bought, direct iPhone compatibility, and my favorite: custom color illumination. I have that now set at a matching green to the AC decal. Sounds way way better then the cheap low-end Sony radio I installed in 2001.

I just bought a new Pioneer for my D as well!. Mines not as nice as yours, but it does have the custom color option, which is what I wanted. It looks fairly inconspicuous.

[jawn101]

Showed it at the UBSCC Sacramento British Car Show. Was pleased to take 2nd in the DeLorean class, losing out only to Stephen and #3130, a loss in which there is definitely no shame.

[Dangermouse]

Was pleased to take 2nd in the DeLorean class, .

Wait, there was an actual "DeLorean" class ?

[jawn101]

Wait, there was an actual "DeLorean" class ?

Sure was!! 4 of us today, 3 from the forum.

19155

[DavidProehl]

Sure was!! 4 of us today, 3 from the forum.

19155

Congratulations! I assume Stephen won first?

Edit: Should have gone back a page to see you already said this.

[Michael]

Sure was!! 4 of us today, 3 from the forum.

19155

That's a good looking plaque! I have received first place plaques that don't look as nice as that. So if that's second place what did the first place trophy look like?



Ohhh and I have to do this::hihi2:
http://www.adster.ca/img/Image/Blog%20Photos/AintFirstorLast.jpg

[jawn101]

That's a good looking plaque! I have received first place plaques that don't look as nice as that. So if that's second place what did the first place trophy look like?



Ohhh and I have to do this::hihi2:
http://www.adster.ca/img/Image/Blog%20Photos/AintFirstorLast.jpg

Haha, nice. The first place plaque was the same with a blue background rather than red. And third was silver. This is a classy show through and through, well organized and with an incredible selection of cars.

The big plus of having our own class this year is that Stephen will be eligible to join the Winner's Circle at next year's show. So we will have some representation up there with all the other pristine show cars and a chance for a D to take Best in Show!

[Farrar]

- used pieces of aluminum sheet and RTV to (I hope) seal the two body holes behind the rear speakers.
- confirmed radiator fan function.
- replaced bad connector at blower motor (ground), restored blower motor function on all four speeds.
- noticed blower motor functions without the rest of the connectors plugged in - just the big one and ground. Kinda strange...

[Jonathan]

I've made quite a bit of progress on reassembling my car. It seems to go back together way easier than it comes apart :) The stereo is in and after yesterday, most of the carpet, console, HVAC vents (man, those silly little rubber sleeves are a PITA to get connected!! lol) are back in too. I was ear to ear grin when I got it back together enough to test things out and put the battery back in. Partly to hear the songs and know it all seemed to have worked... and partly happy that nothing started melting/burning :) Need to get a couple replacement fittings before the seatbelts go back in, so on hold until I put an order in for some more goodies.


https://vimeo.com/66446721

Interesting to learn how the rheostat connections have an impact on whether your directionals work or not. At least I think this is what was going on. When I got the stereo going but hadn't yet put the console back in, nor the shifter plate with rheotstat, or window switches, etc. I realized my headlights worked, horn was okay, interior lights, etc., but not cluster lights and no turn signals. The directional lights came on when I turned the headlights on, but they wouldn't flash when moving the signal stalk up or down. Yesterday after getting most everything back connected, they work again. Something to know I guess for anyone troubleshooting in the future. If you don't have the rheostat plugged in at all, turn signals don't work. Fancy that.

[Domi]

Finished to replace the fuel accumulator.
Break my neck and arms to complete this things :eek7:
I had to remove the center console to access to the fuel lines.
Fortunately, everything is working fine now :)

[Ryan S.]

Finished to replace the fuel accumulator.
Break my neck and arms to complete this things :eek7:
I had to remove the center console to access to the fuel lines.
Fortunately, everything is working fine now :)

Was it easier with the center console removed?

[Domi]

Yes much more easier if you intend to change the lines too.

[Domi]

Sorry, the pictures is mssing

[Farrar]

Pictures of the patched holes:

1916519166

For installation, I put a thick bead of silicone around the edge of each hole, and another thick bead of silicone on the aluminum pieces I had cut. I followed the instructions on the tube and allowed 15 minutes for the RTV to become tacky, then put them in the car.

I had tried to bend the aluminum appropriately to match the curve of the body in those areas, but upon installation I could see that each was less than flush. I had plenty of RTV left in the tube, so I applied a bead of silicone around the edge of each piece of aluminum. It was difficult to see, but I am pretty sure I filled all the gaps. The silicone takes 24 hours to cure, so I can test the seal later this week.

[pezzonovante88]

Found some of my new coolant hoses didn't have clamps on them:swear1:. So I put her up on ramps, crawled underneath and replaced 'em. I also started removing the old crappy epoxy from the fuel tank closing plate to refinish with POR-15. I scraped a lot off, but there is still a lot on there and it's very stubborn. Any tips for removing stuck-on epoxy?

[dmc6960]

Drove it to Discount Tire where im currently waiting for the new tires to be mounted.

[DavidProehl]

Drove it to Discount Tire where im currently waiting for the new tires to be mounted.

What brand/size did you go with? Are you getting new tires all the way around?

[Stainless]

Found some of my new coolant hoses didn't have clamps on them:swear1:. So I put her up on ramps, crawled underneath and replaced 'em. I also started removing the old crappy epoxy from the fuel tank closing plate to refinish with POR-15. I scraped a lot off, but there is still a lot on there and it's very stubborn. Any tips for removing stuck-on epoxy?

I refinished my fuel tank plate by removing it, grinding off the old epoxy with a wire wheel and grinder wheel. I also used POR-15 for the finishing touch. For pictures and a in-depth look at it, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/rust-repair-begins.html

[dmc6960]

What brand/size did you go with? Are you getting new tires all the way around?

Falken ZIEX ZE-912's. 195 and 225 widths. They are the newer higher rated Falkens.

[dmc6960]

Glory shot....

19174

[pezzonovante88]

I refinished my fuel tank plate by removing it, grinding off the old epoxy with a wire wheel and grinder wheel. I also used POR-15 for the finishing touch. For pictures and a in-depth look at it, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/rust-repair-begins.html

Thanks! I'll probably have to go the grinder route, as well. I'll try to get it done tomorrow.

[Mike F]

Began the journey that is the clutch slave cylinder today. Well, technically that journey began a week or so ago. My master started to leak, and based on the consensus that I have found among everyone here I decided to do the slave at the same time. Got the master in a few days ago without a hitch (so far anyway; haven't tested it yet!). With all the threads here that discuss doing the slave cylinder, there are quite a few good tips among the different ways that people have attacked it. I had some other jobs that I had been waiting to do that required draining the coolant (new thermotime switch, replace the clamp on the LH water pump hose), so I figured I'd take advantage of that and remove the hot water valve and piping to give myself a bit of extra wiggle room. Quite frankly, I have NO idea how people get this thing out without doing that. Plus, my hot water valve is looking quite suspect (extremely rusty on one side; looks like it could let go any day), so it seemed like a no-brainer to go in this way and just replace the valve and hoses while I'm in there.

Now, I said I drained the coolant, which is to say I drained it from the radiator. I expected that there would be a fair amount of coolant still in the block/head, so I fitted a small syringe to the bleed hose that tees off from the hot water valve piping and sucked out coolant until I started getting very little out. Sounded like a good idea in my head. Well, those that have been down this road probably know what happened next. With a firm tug I popped off the hot water valve pipe from the engine...and out comes a deluge of coolant. I had a drain pan under the transmission in anticipation of some leakage, but I may as well have attempted to bail out the Titanic with a coffee cup. Seriously, though, I did manage to catch a decent amount of it and cleaned up the rest (paying special attention to cleaning off the frame, etc.).

When it came to doing the slave cylinder, it was most definitely as big a pain as I had heard. There's just no easy way in there. Like I said, I took a mix of tips from several threads. I kept the hard line on and disconnected it from underneath at the fitting on top of the transmission. With all of the stories I found of those lines snapping at the slave fitting, I figured it would be best to handle that on the bench. Then, with fingers crossed, working from the top I removed both of the bolts holding it on. Luckily, they both came out in one piece! With everything undone I then pulled the whole assembly out from the top. Again, without that pipe out of the way I don't have a clue how it would have come out.

That is how it remains for now. I plan to put the new one in tomorrow evening, and finish it all up when I get the hot water valve and hoses in hand. Wish me luck! :smile:

[Mark D]

I figured I'd take advantage of that and remove the hot water valve and piping to give myself a bit of extra wiggle room. Quite frankly, I have NO idea how people get this thing out without doing that.

+10000000000

Once that hose on the block is removed and out of the way, dare I say this is a pretty simple job. Getting the slave cylinder back in was a snap also.

If I had to do the slave cylinder again and didn't have the engine drained of coolant I'd still do it the same way ... Prior to removing the hose I'd just clamp it off at the hot water valve and be ready with a rubber plug to stuff in the barb fitting on the block. I bet you could get away with minimal coolant loss this way.

[Mike F]

+10000000000

Once that hose on the block is removed and out of the way, dare I say this is a pretty simple job. Getting the slave cylinder back in was a snap also.

If I had to do the slave cylinder again and didn't have the engine drained of coolant I'd still do it the same way ... Prior to removing the hose I'd just clamp it off at the hot water valve and be ready with a rubber plug to stuff in the barb fitting on the block. I bet you could get away with minimal coolant loss this way.

Mark, it was actually your take on this job that led me to removing that pipe. Thanks for the tip!

[vwdmc16]

I began the horribly greasy mess that is involved with rebuilding the CV joint, 4 new boots and grease to install after I finish removing every spec of the ancient hardened grease in there. Ill also sandblast and repaint the shafts and joint housings since the plating is gone and the POR 15 I put on years ago never turned out well.

[Starglider]

Found these badges, will put one on the engine cover and one inside the engine bay;

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/stargliderx/engine-badge_zpsa9864b91.jpg

[Farrar]

Found these badges

Rounding down, eh?

[Mark D]

Mark, it was actually your take on this job that led me to removing that pipe. Thanks for the tip!

Awesome! I'm glad I was able to help make this job easier for you.

[Starglider]

Rounding down, eh?

Actually with Ed's low-compression turbo pistons I think my engine is closer to 2.9, but I couldn't find '2.9L V6' badges anywhere.

[Kenny_Z]

I did some painting today. I can always gauge how well a project is going by the amount of blood I lose.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/ouch01.jpg

Protip...razor blades are sharp.

[Dangermouse]

I did some painting today. I can always gauge how well a project is going by the amount of blood I lose.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/ouch01.jpg

Protip...razor blades are sharp.

Shit, what happened to the rest of your fingers????

[Kenny_Z]

I thought the photo looked odd. Guess it wasn't just my eyes playing tricks. I do have all my fingers. I just managed to slice my thumb. Red had a little red color again.

[jawn101]

Removed the:
- Lower engine cover
- Rear fascia and stiffener
- Rear impact absorber
- Alternator
- Muffler and all three brackets
- Muffler and lower fascia heat shields
- Charcoal canister
- Mixture unit with all fuel components
- Intake manifold
- 90% of the coolant

Started to take off the half-shafts but SOMEBODY used an impact driver on them last time we reinstalled em and I can't budge the stupid things by hand. So I'll just make him take them off as punishment :)

Record time for me at 3:45 to do all that. Started to feel a little freaked out that I was getting so good at it. Had a little "yes!" moment when I saw the completely dry and debris-free valley.

Tomorrow I think I'll try to get the radiator replaced. Friday I might tackle the flex fuel hoses at the accumulator.

[DrJeff]

Implemented the Cooling Fan mod kit (http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K4003DP&Category_Code=9475) from DMC-NW. It was a little more leaning into the fuse box area than I was hoping for, but very good instructions and worked a treat. Also implemented the suggestion in the instructions to decouple the startup of the fans from the compressor.

Next up... new radiator and Toby fans.

[Starglider]

Fitted new Bosch two-tone horn set. Spliced a relay into the circuit near the stalk to unload the horn switch (the new horns draw twice the current of stock; didn't want contact arcing);

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/stargliderx/splice2_zpsc9b7b39b.jpg

Also fitted a relay to the main lighting switch to take the sidelights / tail lights / panel lighting current (John Hervey's headlight switch saver mod).

[DavidProehl]

Removed the:
- Lower engine cover
- Rear fascia and stiffener
- Rear impact absorber
- Alternator
- Muffler and all three brackets
- Muffler and lower fascia heat shields
- Charcoal canister
- Mixture unit with all fuel components
- Intake manifold
- 90% of the coolant

Started to take off the half-shafts but SOMEBODY used an impact driver on them last time we reinstalled em and I can't budge the stupid things by hand. So I'll just make him take them off as punishment :)

Record time for me at 3:45 to do all that. Started to feel a little freaked out that I was getting so good at it. Had a little "yes!" moment when I saw the completely dry and debris-free valley.

Tomorrow I think I'll try to get the radiator replaced. Friday I might tackle the flex fuel hoses at the accumulator.


You are a machine!

[jawn101]

You are a machine!

That's nothin!

Today I removed the fans, condenser and radiator. Installed Ed's radiator from DMC-EU. It was a perfect drop-in fit and looks like a million bucks - too bad it will be hidden behind the ugly as sin but still perfectly functional factory condenser. Tried to run the system up to pressure with my tester, but with only air. Boy did that not work. Guess I'll just have to test everything once the motor is back together.

Protip: if you think you might replace ANY of the front cooling system (radiator, condenser, fans) you should save yourself a HUGE amount of hassle and just do all three at once. Save yourself the utter sh1t sandwich of trying to wrangle one part out with the others connected. It would have been so easy to just cut the whole thing loose with a knife and install a whole new 3-layer assembly. You'll just end up doing the others later anyway... think of it as insurance :)

[dmc6960]

Stopped by an alignment shop today to see about getting an alignment to go with the new tires. No openings until next Thursday, hrmph. So made an appointment for then. Also tried doing some minor door adjustments as they got tweaked a little bit when I replaced the windshield last year. And finally I replaced my wideband O2 sensor yet again. This is now my 4th one. Hrmph. This time I also got the "heaksink extender bung" to go with it, and reinstalled the 1.2rc4 firmware one more time. Damn LC1. If it fails on me one more time I'm getting a completely different system. Who would have thought the O2 sensor would be the most frustrating part of my EFI conversion?

[BABIS]

Stopped by an alignment shop today to see about getting an alignment to go with the new tires. No openings until next Thursday, hrmph. So made an appointment for then. Also tried doing some minor door adjustments as they got tweaked a little bit when I replaced the windshield last year. And finally I replaced my wideband O2 sensor yet again. This is now my 4th one. Hrmph. This time I also got the "heaksink extender bung" to go with it, and reinstalled the 1.2rc4 firmware one more time. Damn LC1. If it fails on me one more time I'm getting a completely different system. Who would have thought the O2 sensor would be the most frustrating part of my EFI conversion?

hello,

have you got some troubles with the LC-1 ?

I've just installed this kit on my efi ( renault renix ecu ) http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16291

[Tillsy]

Finally finished my front suspension overhaul, now to start on the rear...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19226&d=1369398879

[DeLorean03]

Finally finished my front suspension overhaul, now to start on the rear...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19226&d=1369398879

That looks GREAT! Man, what a difference :thumbup: !

[pezzonovante88]

Finally finished my front suspension overhaul, now to start on the rear...



That's the height I'd like my car to sit at. My front end is a little too low for me.

[dmc6960]

Took advantage of some *real* free-time today, and my newly replaced O2 sensor, to do some more good tuning of the EFI. Really running good now with some more improvements to go. Now to experiment with advancing the timing. Ever since the rebuild I've kept the base timing at 13º. With the high compression and fast cams I should be able to go higher and get some performance out of it.

[MML]

Snapped this little guy when I was replacing some foam.

http://i.imgur.com/YPTzFgp.jpg

[Ryan S.]

Tillsy,
Did you paint your side vent silver?
By the way, your car looks awesome with lowered springs.

[Tillsy]

Tillsy,
Did you paint your side vent silver?
By the way, your car looks awesome with lowered springs.

No, just a whacky effect caused by a combination of all the fluros I've installed in my garage and the camera flash.

[jawn101]

Ripped out the rusted rivnuts holding the radiator duct to the body and replaced them with jacknuts and stainless hardware. Removed the rest of the old rubber hoses from the coolant pipes and replaced them with new hoses and clamps. Cursed a lot, there are one or two hoses I did not order this time around. Will have to get them next time.

Put the wheels back on and the car back on the ground. Until tomorrow... then the real fun begins!

[DeLorean03]

Drove it more today than pretty much the rest of the year combined so far. Man, it was nice to finally just drive and enjoy.

[dvonk]

Snapped this little guy when I was replacing some foam.

nice! i like european robins better than american robins.

[jawn101]

Drove it more today than pretty much the rest of the year combined so far. Man, it was nice to finally just drive and enjoy.

:aniclap: This is great to hear!

[Dangermouse]

nice! i like european robins better than american robins.

Me too. Much tastier.

J/k

Long time no see, David. Hope all is going well.

[dvonk]

Me too. Much tastier.

J/k

Long time no see, David. Hope all is going well.

:lol:

yeah! thanks Dermot!

glad to be back after a lengthy hiatus... and now, equipped with my better salary and new pay raise, we can finally watch my Obtain-O-Meter rise at a decent rate. :biggrin:

[vwdmc16]

Finished up the rebuilt and CV axles and install, Hopefully the car is all set to smog at 9am tomorrow.

[Kenny_Z]

Learned that watching a couple of biplanes and walking around the car without fascias is dangerous. More blood on the car. I'm getting close to her first fire-up with the new exhaust. I've had to remind myself to slow down and pay attention so I don't screw anything up...or injure myself again.

[Tillsy]

Completed my spring and shock replacement for rear left today/tonight, but when I re-torqued both control arms to suit the lowered height I found inner upper bar INSANELY tight... once I finally cracked it free one of its washers disintegrated into a couple of pieces. Given it is now the early hours of Sunday morning I'm stuck at 99.9% until I can get replacements in the morning :(

[Michael]

Given it is now the early hours of Sunday morning I'm stuck at 99.9% until I can get replacements in the morning :(
Being that Sunday is still 12+ hours away, I think there is a time travel joke in there somewhere.

[dmc6960]

Being that Sunday is still 12+ hours away, I think there is a time travel joke in there somewhere.

Well, traveling to Australia DOES send you into the future, 24 hours into the future to be exact!

[Kenny_Z]

Well, traveling to Australia DOES send you into the future, 24 hours into the future to be exact!

My ex was Australian. I used to call her future girl.

[Farrar]

My ex was Australian. I used to call her future girl.

Here you go, then.

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[Kenny_Z]

That'd be perfect if we were still on speaking terms ;)

[Farrar]

...re-attached the passenger-side rear trim panel, and was prevented from replacing the driver-side rear trim panel by the discovery that the bracket which holds the engine cover release handle is held on my two rivets, one of which was long broken and the other of which broke when I removed the trim panel. Huzzah.

The rivets pass right into the wheel well, so I took of one of the rear wheels for the first time. While I was there I thought about the parking brake, but decided against trying to fix it for now.

19256

Those dark patches on the frame and trailing arm are smooth to the touch and shiny. I exposed more of it simply by rubbing my finger on the trailing arm. I thought DeLorean frames were supposed to be grey. Mine is black everywhere. What gives?

Anyway, my drill ran out of juice so I stopped with the rivet-drilling. Just because it helped me feel better, I put the car back down on four wheels and washed it. It looks a lot more roadworthy now, although a closer inspection would reveal otherwise...

Oh, I also ran a new wire to the choke heater, eliminating a quick-splice. I have learned that quick-splice connectors are evil.

[jawn101]

With Clint's help, we finished disconnecting a few things and pulled the motor and transmission. Removed the transmission and inspected the clutch. Looks perfect, which is good news after the slipping scare last month. Clint removed the valve covers, timing cover, oil pan and lower girdle while I replaced more coolant hoses and wire wheeled all the bolts he removed to ensure easy and clean seals. Removed all the old gasket materials with a sweet 3M abrasive bristle wheel. The oil pan really put up a fight and required an emergency blowtorch purchase. We re-sealed the girdle to the block, installed a new rear main seal and sealed the rear main plate to the motor. Got the oil pan seal installed and the pan reattached, but we're waiting til tomorrow to torque it down.

Tomorrow we will finish the oil pan, do the timing cover and valve covers then put the lump back in. Hopefully no leaks this time.

Anyone else notice how woefully incomplete the workshop manual is when it comes to torque figures?

[Tillsy]

That's awesome Farrar - I've already made use of that.

Michael as the others have mentioned, I'm GMT+9.5 ;)

Minutes away from Monday morning and have just finished the last wheel, so whole suspension overhaul finally finished! Bit late to take her out for a spin though so enjoying a scotch instead and will go for a cruise tomorrow night after work and kids asleep :cheers:

[Michael]

Here you go, then.

19245

Ha!!!! good one!

[DMC5180]

I have learned that quick-splice connectors are evil.

Welcome to the club. I've been preaching that since they were invented in the 70's.

[jawn101]

The good: reassembled the motor, mated up the transmission, dropped it back in and it fired up with a perfect no-hunt idle (save for a bracket adjustment that I still need to do) on the first turn of the key.

The bad: the oil leaks are worse than ever and I'm at the end of my rope with the thing.

[Tillsy]

Took her out for a shakedown cruise, then put away what felt like half a million tools scattered all over my garage...

[Farrar]

Put the rear of the car in the air and took the left wheel off. I decided to have a look around.

I've never looked on the inside of the wheels before. Kind of cool -- now I know exactly when the wheels were manufactured: June 8, 1981. :)

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I tried adjusting the parking brake -- but when I engaged the handle, nothing moved, so I "un-adjusted" it and decided that the problem must be that the cable has become disconnected.

19275

The rear pads look kind of rough, but there's plenty of material on them.

19279

Still curious about the rough texture of my frame and trailing arms; the rough stuff comes off when I rub it with my fingers, exposing a smooth, black finish underneath. Anyone seen this before?

19276

The real reason for taking the wheel off: re-attaching the engine cover release handle bracket. I eventually got around to this after nosing around in the area. :) After drilling out the rivets with a 5/32" bit, putting the new ones in was fairly straightforward: I poked a nail through one of the holes and had my better half place the bracket over it, then had her hold the bracket in place while I installed the rivet. After that, I could finish it on my own. When I got the car the bracket was held on only by one rivet and swivelled around on it, so this is a definite improvement.

19278

That exhaust is pretty rusty. Fortunately, there are better options out there now.

19277

The puddle underneath the car smells like gear oil, so I looked around with a lantern (just call me Diogenes) and it looks like the passenger-side output flange seal has failed. But that will be another project for another day -- right now I need to get the interior of the car back together electrically, so I can re-charge the air conditioning system and get the car closer to being put back on the streets again.

[DMC5180]

The good: reassembled the motor, mated up the transmission, dropped it back in and it fired up with a perfect no-hunt idle (save for a bracket adjustment that I still need to do) on the first turn of the key.

The bad: the oil leaks are worse than ever and I'm at the end of my rope with the thing.

How did you go about sealing the gaskets? I never rely on just the paper gasket. What are the source points of the leaks now?

[SamHill]

A weekend of trouble free motoring after the FR wheel bearing was replaced. GF rode in it for the first time. Says it smells like an old car. She's right.

[jawn101]

How did you go about sealing the gaskets? I never rely on just the paper gasket. What are the source points of the leaks now?

Ugh... Too much to type here but I did weeks of research with Josh and Dave S. Had all the right chemicals and sealants handy and used only the gaskets prescribed by those guys. We followed the directions I was given but it must be down to technique or something. The oil pan gasket seems to be the most troublesome. It was squeezing out excessively at the torque figures given in the manual. Had sealant on both sides and on the threads of every bolt but is still leaking.

[DMC5180]

Well that's a bummer. I'm pretty sure a FULL capacity Oil fill is above the gasket seam. The must be why the factory GLUED the gasket on. Same issue with the Transmission drive flanges. The Gear oil level is 2/3rds up on the seal. No wonder they leak so easily just sitting. Did you use an anaerobic sealer on the gasket?

[jawn101]

Well that's a bummer. I'm pretty sure a FULL capacity Oil fill is above the gasket seam. The must be why the factory GLUED the gasket on. Same issue with the Transmission drive flanges. The Gear oil level is 2/3rds up on the seal. No wonder they leak so easily just sitting. Did you use an anaerobic sealer on the gasket?

The gasket seam itself isn't leaking - the bolt holes are. Which is weird, since the gasket is glued to the pan and the girdle, and every bolt was installed with thread sealant....

[jwrayth]

Fixed after-market cruise control
Top-to-bottom wash and polish after Scotland road-trip (1500 mile adventure, only issue was my parking brake on some steep hills!)
Replaced broken rear-pontoon antenna
Removed after-market CD changer and wiring changes to accommodate it
Added AUX input to radio
Tested durability of new antenna by blasting up and down the motorway to some new music!

[sdg3205]

The gasket seam itself isn't leaking - the bolt holes are. Which is weird, since the gasket is glued to the pan and the girdle, and every bolt was installed with thread sealant....

Jon,

My bolt holes leaked too. The solution that worked for me was teflon tape on the bolts that leaked plus red gasket maker of the square washers of the bolts. I'm leak free.

[jawn101]

Jon,

My bolt holes leaked too. The solution that worked for me was teflon tape on the bolts that leaked plus red gasket maker of the square washers of the bolts. I'm leak free.

Dave - good suggestion here. Definitely worth a try. Any thoughts on the deforming gasket? Any idea if it's possible to access the bolts along the back edge of the pan, obscured by the cradle? Can you just release the motor and transmission mounts and lift the motor just an inch or two without unhooking everything yet again?

[sdg3205]

Dave - good suggestion here. Definitely worth a try. Any thoughts on the deforming gasket? Any idea if it's possible to access the bolts along the back edge of the pan, obscured by the cradle? Can you just release the motor and transmission mounts and lift the motor just an inch or two without unhooking everything yet again?

Back when i first encountered the leaking i asked Toby about it and IIRC he did say the motor could be lifted just enough to remove the pan. I could be remembering things wrong, but at any rate i didn't (and still don't) have an engine lift so I tried the red neck repairs first.

[DMC5180]

Jon,

My bolt holes leaked too. The solution that worked for me was teflon tape on the bolts that leaked plus red gasket maker of the square washers of the bolts. I'm leak free.

How the heck do the bolt holes leak when the gasket surrounds them? Perhaps this is the source of my mystery leak that can't seem to track down. The ones that are inaccessible above the Crossmember could be my culprits. I've never had the Pan off (factory sealed)

[sdg3205]

How the heck do the bolt holes leak when the gasket surrounds them ?

Its a DeLorean.

[vwdmc16]

Yeah im thinking we can get plenty of room to get teh pan by lifting the engine, Ill be bringing my hoist back then Jon.



Drove my car to work, enjoyed the light rain and half day at work too.

[DMC5180]

Its a DeLorean.

Figures! :smashfreak:

[Farrar]

I'm taking a water-and-air-conditioning break right now, but here's what I've done so far today.

Went on a "seek and delete" mission to find and remove quick-splice terminals throughout the car. Confirmed all connections are secure. Lots of solder and heat-shrink got used in the process.

Some wires in the relay/fuse area had been nicked or otherwise compromised. If no copper was exposed, I simply wrapped a small piece of silicone wrap around the damaged insulation. In other places, lengths of wire had to be removed and replaced.

The wires from the driver's seat belt receiver had been severed at some point. I spliced in some wire to lengthen the pigtail slightly; I used even more black heat-shrink tubing on that one... but now the seat belt light should work.

Confirmed my "infamous body holes behind the rear speaker panels" fix worked by putting water down the black vents in the rear quarter panels behind the doors. Water went down behind the quarter panel and onto the towel beneath, but not a drop got inside.

Replaced rear speaker brackets, speakers, and trim panels. Speakers are Pioneer brand and new enough to not need replacing.

Pulled the 8mm hex-head screw out of the passenger-side relay/fuse bracket using an 8mm ratchet and vise-grip. I'll use a plastic rivet instead when I re-mount the bracket later. The bracket is extremely rusty, but it's going back in since stock replacements are unavailable and stainless steel ones are prohibitively expensive.

One of the new a/c hoses was hanging down slightly between the body and the frame and the tolerance was too close for me to push it in. Today, since I had both seats out, I decided to remove the four body bolts along the center channel and see if I could push the a/c hose in. I used the floor jack underneath the driver-side jack plate to lift just until the tire left the ground. At that point, I was able to push the hose into the channel by holding the metal end of a claw-hammer in my hand and using a pushing/twisting motion on the hose, starting from one end of the "bulge" and working to the end. It worked.

The rear defogger connector is misshapen and brittle; at some point in the past it must have overheated. I snipped it off: I don't use the rear defogger, and the cruise control requires switched 12v for the control pad -- I used the green/white wire to the rear defogger switch for this supply.

Most of the driver-side rear trim panel is missing its vinyl overlap, so it is loose. Both inner door seals need to be replaced, but until I buy replacements the old ones are going back on, with the torn sections at the bottom.

Before I put the console back in, I'm going to wire in some extensions to the door switch leads via molex connectors and solder pigtails onto the switches. That's assuming Radio Shack is open on Memorial Day...

[Kenny_Z]

I put in the fuel manifold, the pipe of agony, and the idle motor of you-came-from-there-now-go-back-on-damn-you. Tomorrow I'll install all the fuel lines and pressurize it to check for leaks. Then I can move on to getting the alternator and the exhaust mounted. Once this engine is complete I'll be able to focus on paint and reassembly.

[jawn101]

Back when i first encountered the leaking i asked Toby about it and IIRC he did say the motor could be lifted just enough to remove the pan. I could be remembering things wrong, but at any rate i didn't (and still don't) have an engine lift so I tried the red neck repairs first.

OK, interesting. Worth a try, then...


How the heck do the bolt holes leak when the gasket surrounds them? Perhaps this is the source of my mystery leak that can't seem to track down. The ones that are inaccessible above the Crossmember could be my culprits. I've never had the Pan off (factory sealed)


Its a DeLorean.

Amen. I can't *quite* figure that out either, especially since the pan bolts go right into the lower girdle. Bizarre.


Yeah im thinking we can get plenty of room to get teh pan by lifting the engine, Ill be bringing my hoist back then Jon.

Let's do this thing. Name the time...

As for me, today I cleaned up the garage and put away every tool I own, all of which found their way into a pile in the corner :)
Clint I found your 13/14 line wrench in the pile.

[Hokie]

Did a bit of prep work for this weekend's show using the following products:

19280

19281

[Hokie]

Forgive the photography experiment, trying a higher resolution for the posting:

19282

19283

Experiment complete, carry on!

[Mark D]

Today I pressure tested my cooling system and discovered a leak at the temp sensor on the engine. A few drips per hour that I probably never noticed before when the engine was completely covered in oily gunk. I'm guessing that when running hot the copper ORing may actually seal better vs cold.

My car has been up on jack stands since Oct '11 and since then the entire suspension, steering rack, fuel tank, radiator, exhaust, brake and clutch hydraulics have all been removed so the frame rust could be repaired. Everything was either replaced, re-plated, or powder coated so it's like new. I should be ready to roll with a few more hours of work. I just need to refill the clutch and brake fluid and bleed the system. Just in time to make it to DMCMW open house!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19287&d=1369713623
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19288&d=1369713634
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19289&d=1369713641

[Tillsy]

Wow, I'd happily eat my breakfast off that Mark!

[Farrar]

Rusty fuse/relay bracket came out with one of its screws and rivnuts stuck on.

19296

Got them separated with an 8mm nut and vise-grip.

19295

Repaired damaged section of seat belt sender pigtail.

19297

Started extending wiring for window switches.

19294

[pezzonovante88]

Today I pressure tested my cooling system and discovered a leak at the temp sensor on the engine. A few drips per hour that I probably never noticed before when the engine was completely covered in oily gunk. I'm guessing that when running hot the copper ORing may actually seal better vs cold.

My car has been up on jack stands since Oct '11 and since then the entire suspension, steering rack, fuel tank, radiator, exhaust, brake and clutch hydraulics have all been removed so the frame rust could be repaired. Everything was either replaced, re-plated, or powder coated so it's like new. I should be ready to roll with a few more hours of work. I just need to refill the clutch and brake fluid and bleed the system. Just in time to make it to DMCMW open house!



Beautiful!!!!!


I just reinstalled my fuel tank closing plate that was freshly powder-coated and then did a few POR-15 touch-ups underneath. My car looks pretty good under there, but no as good as yours!

[Mark D]

Thanks for the positive feedback guys. I've lost track of how many hours I've spent underneath the car but it's been a lot. I'm so ready to drive it again after a year and a half of work.

[Kenny_Z]

The DeLorean looks amazing Mark. I'm also jealous of the garage. It looks like a nice place to work.

Today I started Red for the first time in 3 months. I did find an oil leak but I'm not sure where it is coming from yet. It might be the timing cover but way up near the passenger side head.

[Furry_DeLorean]

I haven't shared anything on DMC talk for a looong time. I have however completed my frame to body marriage on my DeLorean last weekend. First time those parts have been together in 4 years. 6 of the 10 body mounts did not line up, very strange.

[Farrar]

I haven't shared anything on DMC talk for a looong time. I have however completed my frame to body marriage on my DeLorean last weekend. First time those parts have been together in 4 years. 6 of the 10 body mounts did not line up, very strange.

Welcome back! I hope you were able to flex the body into place. I had to lean my body against it last weekend to get some of the holes in the middle to line up. (I wasn't doing a frame-off, just a/c hoses.)

[Furry_DeLorean]

Welcome back! I hope you were able to flex the body into place. I had to lean my body against it last weekend to get some of the holes in the middle to line up. (I wasn't doing a frame-off, just a/c hoses.)

Unfortunately no amount of flexing was going to fix this. It was as if my frame shrank in length by an inch or so. I had to elongate the two front and four aft bolt holes on the body to get it to fit. I did a lot of metalwork to my frame as well as a hot dip galvanizing job, I think that caused my frame to change shape. The body and the frame fit together perfectly now, I just hope this won't cause any more problems.

[jawn101]

Unfortunately no amount of flexing was going to fix this. It was as if my frame shrank in length by an inch or so. I had to elongate the two front and four aft bolt holes on the body to get it to fit. I did a lot of metalwork to my frame as well as a hot dip galvanizing job, I think that caused my frame to change shape. The body and the frame fit together perfectly now, I just hope this won't cause any more problems.

Wow, that's extreme! Good luck! Have any pics of your progress? We all love to see a rebirth... :)

[eagle-co94]

You don't think that it was actually your bodytub flexing from sitting? I'd be willing to bet that if you supported your bodytub at each end and not along the backbone as well that your frame didn't change much if any.

[Furry_DeLorean]

You don't think that it was actually your bodytub flexing from sitting? I'd be willing to bet that if you supported your bodytub at each end and not along the backbone as well that your frame didn't change much if any.

It could very well be the tub as well, I did have the body sitting on the frame for a week prior to me elongating the holes but nothing changed. I had the body sitting on its jacking points all this time so both ends could have drooped down.

[Furry_DeLorean]

Wow, that's extreme! Good luck! Have any pics of your progress? We all love to see a rebirth... :)

Here's what 3296 looks like currently.

19328

19329

19330

[jawn101]

Here's what 3296 looks like currently.

19328

19329

19330

Looks great, gonna be a fine car when you're done :)

I see you have the same anodized black coolant bottle as I do. Do you know where it came from originally? I don't know if it was a D1 thing or what.

[dvonk]

Here's what 3296 looks like currently.

welcome back, and 3296 is looking good! :thumbup:

totally off-topic: i noticed you have a harbor freight blasting cabinet... how do you like it?

[Furry_DeLorean]

I see you have the same anodized black coolant bottle as I do. Do you know where it came from originally? I don't know if it was a D1 thing or what.

Sorry dude, I do not know where it came from. My Delorean came with that when I bought it and I have no solid history of the car at all. I am really happy with it though, its my favorite burp tank model out there.


totally off-topic: i noticed you have a harbor freight blasting cabinet... how do you like it?

Yea it is a harbor freight sand blaster. Its just big enough to hold almost everything I need to blast and is strong enough to work most of the time. Its certainly not close to those huge industrial blasters even with my massive 150 psi compressor. But it can handle almost everything with enough time. It does not blast powder-coating very well but everything else is peace of cake. The biggest drawbacks are insufficient lighting, moist air clogs the gun very easily so use a water separator, and you have to order the gun nozzles online, you can not get them from harbor freight stores oddly enough. And walnut shell media does not work in this machine. All in all though, its great for those every day home projects.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys, I appreciate it.

[Mark D]

Here's what 3296 looks like currently.

That is looking really nice. I can tell you must have quite a few hours into the engine, it looks immaculate!


totally off-topic: i noticed you have a harbor freight blasting cabinet... how do you like it?

I have a HF blast cabinate also, but it is the benchtop version. It's essentially the same as the floor standing one but without the legs. The blast cabinate itself is pretty good, but it does not come with any lights so you'll need to install one yourself. I put two 24' flourescent tubes in mine and it makes a huge difference. Also, before you fill it with any blast media you should caulk all of the seams on the underside otherwise they will leak blasting dust. I used some silicone RTV and also sealed the round openings where the rubber gloves mount. I found the blast gun itself to have margainal suction power and it clogged way to easily even with an inline water separator and disposable desiccant fillters. I'm currently using a craftsman blast gun and it's much better (was around 20 bucks).

The blast cabinate comes with 3 sheets of clear film to protect the inside of the window which won't last you very long. You can't buy replacement films either from HF for some stupid reason. I cut my own to size using that clear plastic film and double stick tape for insulating windows in the winter time.

Overall a great purchase especially if you get it on sale. I'm in HF's "inside track" club and paid $89 for mine. I use it a lot more than I thought I would.

[dmc6960]

Currently at the alignment shop. First time since I've owned it I'm having it professionally aligned. Replacing the steering rack in 2005 and replacing springs/bushings in 2010 was all home-aligned.

19339

[vwdmc16]

Damn that alignment rack must be scary and hard to drive a large car onto.

[Tillsy]

After my suspension overhaul my rear end was sitting far too low for my liking so have now raised the rear 18mm. After settling it is now identical to the front - very happy :)

[Conundrum]

Took 2953 for a quick spin around town, came home, and changed the oil. I have to say, I feel a heck of a lot better now that the car is running and not collecting dust in my garage.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

[Domi]

Thanks a new oil filter from DMCH? Look like the bosch from J. Hervey?

[DavidProehl]

I just bought a couple of these when visiting DMC LA last weekend, as far as I can tell it is the same filter as the one Hervey sells (Bosch 72150).

[Henrik]

Replaced the Outer Wipe Seals on both sides. As always when I work on my doors, this formula seems to apply:

Number of nasty cuts on my fingers = (Number of hours spend working inside the doors) x 2

[pezzonovante88]

Took 2953 for a quick spin around town, came home, and changed the oil. I have to say, I feel a heck of a lot better now that the car is running and not collecting dust in my garage.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

haha I have the exact same ramps and creeper.

[eagle-co94]

haha I have the exact same ramps and creeper.

ditto.

[DavidProehl]

Installed Hervey's slave cylinder bleeder extension. No more making excuses for not bleeding the clutch because it is too big of a pain.

[Conundrum]

Installed Hervey's slave cylinder bleeder extension. No more making excuses for not bleeding the clutch because it is too big of a pain.

Does that make it pretty easy?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

[DavidProehl]

Does that make it pretty easy?


Makes it a lot easier, at least for me. Now rather than having to put the car up on ramps, crawl under, and reach around the tranny to get at the bleed screw, I can open up the extension valve without hardly even leaning over the engine, and without a wrench. A valid argument against using it is that you really only need to bleed once every 1-2 years, the car will be up on a ramp anyway most likely during that time, and it is yet another hose back there. Still, I thought I'd give it a try and in the 24 hours I've had it installed I've been happy :D

[DMCMW Dave]

A valid argument against using it is that you really only need to bleed once every 1-2 years, the car will be up on a ramp anyway most likely during that time, and it is yet another hose back there.

I can certainly understand the convenience factor (and I agree that it is only needed every 2-3 years when you flush the system).

My worry from an engineering view is that you've installed at least 4 more failure points into the hydraulic system - the lower hose joint (Where it attaches to the fitting that screws into the slave), the upper hose joint, the hose itself (which being flexible could bring back some of the swelling hose issue), and the bleed valve itself. I can't say that I've heard of any of these failing, but it is added complexity.

[DavidProehl]

Very good point Dave. I was also hesitant initially for that reason, but after seeing it installed on several cars here in NorCal without issues I felt comfortable enough with its reliability to try it. Worst case it starts leaking, I limp home, and re-install the original screw. I watch my fluids close enough that I think I'll notice when/if I start losing DOT 4.

[Kenny_Z]

A full on test run. No more leaks and no hunting idle even after being apart for nearly 3 months. Here's full minute of her running. No revs though, I'm taking it easy with her.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrvpSVR2Jaw&feature=youtu.be

I think I need to adjust the tension on my alternator belt.

[dmc6960]

Took the car for a nice drive tonight. Fairly cool out so I was running with the seat heaters. Who says they would never see use in a non-winter car! Over the next week she'll be out of commission as both seats are removed. I will be evaluating the wear on the custom heating/cooling components from the seat done last year then making the same changes plus any improvements needed to the other seat. The plan is to have both seats done for the trip to the DMCMW open house in 2 weeks. Anybody who didn't get a chance to check them out at DCS last year can do so now. Also going to get the tint installed this upcoming week as well. I'll never sweat a single drop in the car ever again, except for maybe if I leave the seat heater on high for too long.

[dvonk]

...Anybody who didn't get a chance to check them out at DCS last year can do so now.

Jim, yours was the first DeLorean i ever sat in, and i was quite impressed with your seat mod. :fancy:

[vwdmc16]

After 4 years of faithful service the battery in my car is not trustworthy so $130 later I have a new one. Then I worked on the headliners more, Just need rivets for the hooks and Im ready to recover them and install, Should be nice to have headliners that looks presentable for the first time.

[Tillsy]

I can certainly understand the convenience factor (and I agree that it is only needed every 2-3 years when you flush the system).

My worry from an engineering view is that you've installed at least 4 more failure points into the hydraulic system - the lower hose joint (Where it attaches to the fitting that screws into the slave), the upper hose joint, the hose itself (which being flexible could bring back some of the swelling hose issue), and the bleed valve itself. I can't say that I've heard of any of these failing, but it is added complexity.

Dave your thoughts are very valid except the swelling concern - Harvey's device is stainless braided. Here's a picky of mine as I still haven't got around to installing it yet:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19411&d=1370175618

[Domi]

I've tried to repair my rear antenna with no luck :(
It is not able to go down anymore, I don't know why?

[beernpizzalover]

Well, yesterday (6/1/2013) actually:
1. Rented a storage unit to keep it in.
2. Got it registered in the State of Washington.

[Rich]

I've tried to repair my rear antenna with no luck :(
It is not able to go down anymore, I don't know why?

Could be a few things. Incorrect power/signal, bad antenna motor, busted nylon cable inside the mast. What have you tried so far with no luck?

[jawn101]

Built a mess of new shelves and a solid workbench in the garage around it. Mounted a huge fan to the back wall to try and cut the ridiculous heat in there. Almost installed a big ass air conditioner but stopped myself. Let's see how the fan works first.

[pezzonovante88]

My passenger side indicator lights started doing the quick-flashing thing so I changed the side indicator light bulbs (original) as one of them was burned out. All the indicator lights are now working properly except for the side ones even after new bulbs. They won't illuminate. Any ideas?

I also took the car for a (short) drive for the first time in a few weeks.

[dustybarn]

Replaced the ignition coil and the weird ignition anomalies I'd been experiencing (missing between 1250 and 2000 rpm, only when hot) magically went away. Further clue: IME oil-filled ignition coils should not be leaking oil at the terminals!

[DrJeff]

I've been working on this project for a while, but today I finally got the module fully constructed and tested in the car. The Module connects into the stock wiring just prior to the Wiper Control Module. No stock wiring was harmed in the installation of this module!

Here is a link to a youtube video of the module being demonstrated (http://youtu.be/CqU6tcaL_lU).

I've never liked the intermittent wiper controls on the Delorean. The fast, normal, and once wiper functions are perfect, but getting the car into intermittent wiper mode is just too confusing. You have to hold the wiper control arm down (in the wipe once mode) for 3 seconds and then the car will intermittently wipe about every 6 seconds. There is no way to adjust the duration of the pause between wipes.

So I created an add-on module that (when fully installed) will poke through the drivers left kneepad. As you might see from the video my kneepads have already been modified to include AC vents (no more AC vents in the doors). The unit includes a wiper dial knob (taken from a 1983 Porsche Targa - I just liked the knob - the electronics didn't work in this application). To switch into intermittent wiper mode you just click-on the dial (it clicks on/off at the most anit-clockwise position). When just clicked on, the wipers will sweep about every 3-4 seconds. You can increase the duration between sweeps by turning the dial further clockwise. At the furthest clockwise the wiper sweeps occur about every 60 seconds. To switch the intermittent wipe off, just turn the dial all the way clockwise. Pretty simple and intuitive. On top of that all the stock wiper functions and controls work as normal - even the 6 second intermittent wipe!

Here are some pictures of the assembled unit.

194181941919420

The module works by simulating a 'wipe once' at a duration determined by the setting on the new wiper knob. Once I figured out that an additional input (state) device was needed (the stock Delorean doesn't provide enough inputs to allow for an intuitive state machine - and thus the "hold down" method to get into intermittent wipe) I figured I'd go with something that was very intuitive to use and easily adjustable. Trying to use the stock inputs to do variable duration wipe would have meant doing an even more convoluted method - there are just too few input modes.

The module connects in-line with the existing connectors running from the steering wheel control stalks to the wiper control module. I used church window connectors so that you just unplug a connector from the wiper control module, plug it into this unit, and then plug the output of this unit into the wiper control module. The additional black wire is a ground wire that just connects to the same ground as the existing wiper control module. It should have been very easy, but due to the location of the unit there was some swearing involved.

Project cost was $10 for the timer unit, $15 for the church window connector, $10 for the large potentiometer, $15 for the Porsche wiper knob, plastic box was leftover from an iPod Nano. So $50 total. When I get some time I'll write this one up.

[WelmoedJ]

Yesterday we had festivities in our city, like many cities have to entertain their citizens.
There has been a parade of local sports, music, dance and other art performing groups.
In this parade we had 21 different oldtimer cars all from locals.
Of course I also showed my DeLorean.

After the parade we exhibited our cars in the city center square.
Next to my D there a very special "means of transport".
Thought this was fun for you to see.
Anyone knows what make it is? (I, of course know ;) )

19423 19424

[Andy]

Yesterday we had festivities in our city, like many cities have to entertain their citizens.
There has been a parade of local sports, music, dance and other art performing groups.
In this parade we had 21 different oldtimer cars all from locals.
Of course I also showed my DeLorean.

After the parade we exhibited our cars in the city center square.
Next to my D there a very special "means of transport".
Thought this was fun for you to see.
Anyone knows what make it is? (I, of course know ;) )

19423 19424

Easy one, Welmoed, that's a Velorex-Jawa Type 16/175, 16/250 or 16/350 (depending on engine size). It was made between 1958 and 1972. They made about 12000 examples of the 16/350, so it wil probably be one of these, won't it?

[MTDMC]

Washed it today.

[dmc6960]

Removed the drivers seat, out of the passenger side, to begin recovering. In the hour of free time I had tonight I got both original leather/vinyl sections removed from the seat frame. Tomorrow I will remove the passenger seat, from the drivers position, and evaluate the performance/wear on the heating/cooling components.

[WelmoedJ]

Yesterday we had festivities in our city, like many cities have to entertain their citizens.
There has been a parade of local sports, music, dance and other art performing groups.
In this parade we had 21 different oldtimer cars all from locals.
Of course I also showed my DeLorean.

After the parade we exhibited our cars in the city center square.
Next to my D there a very special "means of transport".
Thought this was fun for you to see.
Anyone knows what make it is? (I, of course know ;) )

19423 19424

You may be interested in a more "moving" report of this festival.
Here's a Youtube video impression (spoken tekst is Dutch, but the video speaks for itself):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlyVYR8qlBw

[Farrar]

Made some diodes for the courtesy light circuit. I only needed three, but Radio Shack sells diodes in packages of two, so now I have a spare. :)

19561

[Farrar]

Today, I finished pigtails for power window switches (allows me to disconnect switches from underneath coin tray; replaces warped and cracked OEM switch connectors).

I also decided to re-design the accessory circuit to keep the accessories (radio, power windows, etc.) on until a door is opened. Drew up a schematic and made a parts list to this end.

[eagle-co94]

Found that a DeLorean seat will perfectly fit in my dumpster. It's free if anyone wants to pick it up...but I think it's trash.

[krs09]

Finally got around to installing the LED light kit from DMCH. Replaced the switches on the driver door (both were just disconnected) reconnected and "poof" all of the door lights work! But I cant seem to get my door ajar and interior lights to work (at least with the doors open). I knew it wouldnt be that easy :rolleyes1:

[jawn101]

Today was a big day. Cut out and removed the old fuel pump, boot, sender and all tank components. Pumped out the tank and cleaned it. Installed the upgraded pump/sender combo. Everything fit perfectly and is working great. That is a fantastic kit.

Also installed new caps on the wiper arm nuts as well as a new washer fluid sprayer.

[jawn101]

Found that a DeLorean seat will perfectly fit in my dumpster. It's free if anyone wants to pick it up...but I think it's trash.

You should pull out the mechanism to lean it forward and back if you can and it's saveable. Those are NLA.

[Conundrum]

A couple days ago, I took 2953 for a drive. Just wish I knew how fast I was going. Need a new angle drive. Last one only worked for a year. :angry_whip:

[Mark D]

Yesterday I started my DeLorean for the first time in 1 year and 7 months. During that time I took apart the entire suspension, powder coated all the control arms, suspension links and rear hub carriers, removed all rust from the frame and painted it. I removed and refurbished the exhaust and installed new heat shields. I also replaced the radiator and every rubber coolant hose on the car (minus the few under the intake manifold). The fuel tank was removed, cleaned and new fuel hoses were installed. Every bolt that was removed was replated in clear zinc or replaced with stainless. All mounting brackets that were removed were plated in yellow zinc. I installed new SPAX shocks and Eibach lowering springs and all front bushings are now polyurethane. All rear suspension links had new rubber bushings pressed in and I installed a set of Toby TABS. All wheel bearings were replaced. The brake system was completely rebuilt with new master cylinder and rebuilt/plated calipers with new seals and pads. The parking brakes were disassembled, plated, and rebuilt with new pads. The clutch master and slave cylinders were also replaced. The steering rack was removed, disassembled, powder coated and reassembled with new sealed bearings from Martin and new bushings were installed. Upper and lower ball joints and tire rod ends were also replaced. I'm sure there is more that I am forgetting...

Anyway, here are a few pics of the car getting lowered off jack stands and finally touching the ground. After bleeding the remaining air from the cooling system the engine was running great with no leaks found anywhere. I drove it about 20 feet down the driveway and backed it into the garage to test the brakes and clutch, everything seems to be working as it should. Today it goes in for a 4 wheels alignment and I'll be doing some shakedown driving tests before making an hour trip to my new house.

It was a huge sense of accomplishment to finally see this project come to an end. Once the car is at its new home I'm going to try and enjoy it for a few months before tearing into the VOD cleanup project and replacing the water pump.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19691&d=1370613958
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19693&d=1370613976
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19696&d=1370613997
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19698&d=1370614011

[Farrar]

You did all of that with the car on jack-stands? That gives me hope... :) Nicely done, Mark D!

[Mark D]

Yeah it was pretty much a frame-on restoration of the whole chassis. I didn't have the space to pull the body off otherwise that probably would have made things easier. I was able to leave all of the engine and fuel system connected though which made it a lot simpler when it came time to start the car again. My biggest fear was taking apart so much stuff that it would be more difficult to diagnose issues when I was all done. If you just take off a few parts it's easy to trace back problems. If you take apart the whole car there are a lot more variables to check. I pretty much left the engine alone since that was running without any issues.

The thing that took the most time was prepping and refinishing all the parts. I spent hours and hours with the sand blaster getting stuff read to be powder coated or plated. Once all the parts were done I built up as much as I could as sub assemblies before installing back on the car...lots of bushings and bearings to press in, building brake calipers and parking brakes, etc. Reassembly was pretty quick once I had all the parts done and sitting on the shelf.

After all of the work I've done the car finally feels like it's "mine" now... Ownership is much different after spending so many hours wrenching on it. I've learned all the inner workings of the car in the process and there is this new sense of appreciation for each piece of the puzzle that makes up the car. It's sort of like a relationship that builds over time.

[Kenny_Z]

Beautiful car, Mark. I know what you mean. A car doesn't feel like mine until I turn a wrench on it.

[bruscreen]

This week: Installed new brake master cylinder and new rear wheel bearings. Test drove at night in the rain with no windows. The new bearings sound a lot better than the old ones, and I think it's the first time the open windows ever kept me cool. Oh, and the brakes work. The loose screws all over my floorboard (from the window regulator project) can attest to that.

[Nicholas R]

Not today but last sunday I drove my car from Cincinnati, OH to its new home in Orlando, FL. Made the trip great. Now if the rain would ever stop I could actually drive it here. It's not an issue of it getting dirty or me not liking the car getting wet, its that these damn Florida rainstorms all but flood the road making it impossible for me to maintain traction. Hitting the gas is no fun if all you do is break the tires free. Dry road or nothing for me.

[DrJeff]

Hitting the gas is no fun if all you do is break the tires free. Dry road or nothing for me.

There you have it... so there is a downside to power. Still I want it :)

[Mark D]

Nick I'd say your problem is one I wouldn't mind having :-)

[DMC5180]

And the Front end will Hydroplane and pull easily in standing water.(Wheel ruts in worn asphalt). I drove home in rain from a DMCMW Open house a couple years ago and it was a white knuckle drive at night. Made even worse with oncoming headlights in your face at the same time.



Mark D,

How did you get the rear marker to light up like that? Is that a camera flash reflection?

[Tillsy]

How did you get the rear marker to light up like that? Is that a camera flash reflection?

Be camera flash as those two strips contain reflectors.

[pezzonovante88]

Installed a new DMCH shifter boot.

[DMC5180]

Went for a nice drive this evening and dodged a couple DEER. :rollin:

[DeLorean03]

Last week:

Installed a new ported vacuum switch.

Installed a plumbing clamp on the rubber hose that goes from a barb on the back of the driver's side intake manifold to the vacuum modulator.

Installed new fuel injector boots.

This week:

Installed Bouicord plug wires from DMCMW.

Adjusted the fuel to air ratio so it idles with very minimal idle hunting when first starting the car.

Got my new KJet gauges and properly measured my system, control, and rest pressures. Determined with instructions from DMCMW-Dave that my fuel pump/sender combo is faulty, and I will be exchanging it for a new one at DMCMW's open house under warranty :thumbup:.

Been learning how to properly adjust the linkage arm that connects the "hammer" of the idle speed microswitch to the throttle spool. Here, I'll explain:

My idle was starting to stick at 1500 RPM in park, so I adjusted the linkage arm once verifying that a gentle push on the hammer that engages idle speed microswitch brought my RPMs down. After adjusting the arm appropriately, the idle was solid and steady at 750 RPM, and it came down to and stayed at 750 RPM no matter how soft, hard, or gradually I applied the brakes. But then....

I was having a wacky issue where when my transmission would downshift, the RPMs would go down to nearly 500 RPM before catching and holding on going back to 900 RPM and finally settling at 750 RPM. Turned out my car doesn't like to idle at 750 RPM in drive. Once I started adjusting the idle to remain at 1000, my transmission downshifted and the RPMs went up as they should with each downshift, keeping the engine strong and healthy instead of that wild oscillation from 500 to 900 to then 750 when braking. It was nutty, and I definitely didn't like it.

All part of owning a DeLorean :wrenchin:

[NightFlyer]

Determined with instructions from DMCMW-Dave that my fuel pump/sender combo is faulty, and I will be exchanging it for a new one at DMCMW's open house under warranty :thumbup:.

As I'm thinking about ordering one of the pump/sender combo kits from DMCMW, I'm curious as to what exactly is faulty with the product - is it the check valve, as has been reported in other threads?

[DeLorean03]

Yes, it is typically the check valve. The "bad batch" of these units should hopefully be exhausted by now. The way to find out:

Hook up a set of K-Jetronic Fuel Pressure Gauges to your control pressure regulator and fuel distributor. Start the car and make sure you have 78-80 psi main fuel pressure.

Have someone in the driver's seat with the car running. Get a strong C-Clamp or vice grips with padding or wrapped electrical tape to keep the jaw's teeth from digging into the rubber fuel line. Place the clamp/vice grips over the FEED rubber fuel line that connects the fuel pump to the metal fuel line. When the help in the driver's seat turns the key to stop the engine, immediately clamp down on the rubber fuel line with the vice grips or C-clamp.

Now go back to your fuel pressure gauges in the engine bay. Your rest pressure should be somewhere around 43-45 psi. Now go release the pressure on your vice-grips/C-clamp. Once you do that, go check your gauges. If the gauge starts plummeting, you have a bad check valve. Good example with my car today:

Started the car, let it sit. Rest pressure was 43 psi. In 12 minutes, I had 0 rest pressure. I started the car back up, and then stopped the engine and applied vice-grips to my feed rubber fuel line. All of a sudden, my fuel pressure stayed at 41 psi for 12 minutes. Then, I disconnected my vice-grips, and in 8-9 minutes, I went from 41 psi to nearly 21 psi, and within a total of 15 minutes I was at 15 psi. To put that in perspective, you should have 25.5 PSI as a minimum after 10 minutes.

Bottom line, I was dropping rest pressure pretty quickly - the check valve was starting to give out or it was not engaging all the time as it should.

[OverlandMan]

I put a replacement upper LH side door trim piece on my car this evening. Looks 110% better!

[Mark D]

Be camera flash as those two strips contain reflectors.

Yup thats the camera flash reflecting. Would be cool to get the whole light that bright instead fd just the bulb in the center. In that other thread about the LED marker lamps it looks like the side facing LED's do a pretty good job of this.

[jawn101]

Drained the oil, disconnected the mounts and hoisted the motor up to remove the oil pan yet again and install a third gasket. This one is holding MUCH better (thanks, Josh!!)

Resealed the passenger side valve cover gasket. Started her up and cycled to operating temperature. Not a single drop of oil so far!

Tomorrow I will reinstall the fascia and such to get her road legal again and then I think a proper shakedown is in order.

Thanks to David, Clint and Ryan for all the help!

[Jonathan]

You should pull out the mechanism to lean it forward and back if you can and it's saveable. Those are NLA.

If salvageable, save the slide release bars too as they are also NLA.

http://store.delorean.com/p-9991-slide-release-bar.aspx

I paid $100+ five years ago for the pair after realizing my car didn't come with any. Slightly important to be able to move the seat if you need it all the way back cause you don't fit!


Took 2953 for a quick spin around town, came home, and changed the oil. I have to say, I feel a heck of a lot better now that the car is running and not collecting dust in my garage.

Nice. Looks like all the same pieces for my last oil change (including the style of drain plug you have). Not sure if that is oil splashed a bit on the frame (the section going across the width and right behind where the drain plug hole would be)? You can have good luck getting the oil coming out to go down instead of out and on to the frame, by using a piece of cardboard or something similar to kind of angle it just as you release the plug and it shoots out at the cardboard and then down into your catch container. Saves having to wipe the frame off afterwards :)

[DMCflux]

I have tried to drive it everyday with the exception of bad weather (rain). I have over 2k miles on it so far this year. The only problems I have encountered since my winter restoration were, steering column bushing and a blown evap to compressor a/c hose. So far so good, but with literally everything being gone thru and/or replaced. Hopefully im in the clear for awhile (fingers crossed) ;)

[DMC5180]

I have tried to drive it everyday with the exception of bad weather (rain). I have over 2k miles on it so far this year. The only problems I have encountered since my winter restoration were, steering column bushing and a blown evap to compressor a/c hose. So far so good, but with literally everything being gone thru and/or replaced. Hopefully im in the clear for awhile (fingers crossed) ;)

WOW, 2K already. That's great to here. I'm about cross 1K for the season.

Which Hose blew as seen at the Compressor TOP or BOTTOM? (Assuming 32 year old Original Hoses). I would expect the HIGH Side Hose to Fail (COMP to CONDENSER) before the LOW side hose gives up (EVAP to COMP)

[DMCflux]

WOW, 2K already. That's great to here. I'm about cross 1K for the season.

Which Hose blew as seen at the Compressor TOP or BOTTOM? (Assuming 32 year old Original Hoses). I would expect the HIGH Side Hose to Fail (COMP to CONDENSER) before the LOW side hose gives up (EVAP to COMP)

Top, compr to condenser. The steering column rubbed through it (common problem I'm told). The protective pad in between the hose and steering column was attached on the wrong side, and as I took a turn I heard a pop and pshhhhhh.

[DMC5180]

Top, compr to condenser. The steering column rubbed through it (common problem I'm told). The protective pad in between the hose and steering column was attached on the wrong side, and as I took a turn I heard a pop and pshhhhhh.

Okay, the High pressure side. Not necessarily common, but your the 3rd person I've heard of it happening too.

[jawn101]

Finally, some closure. Went out to check on it in the garage this morning. No oil at all on the floor overnight after running the motor for 20 or so minutes last night. Feeling cautiously optimistic, I reinstalled the heat shields, impact absorber, rear fascia, taillights and lower engine cover. Basically put the whole car back together. Fought yet again with the DMCH reproduction radiator duct. I swear that thing hates me. It doesn't fit for crap!

Drove about 20 miles around town to really warm things up. Aside from a high idle (throttle arm not returning fully to rest, if I blip the pedal I can usually get it back to an even 750) it felt and ran great. Could probably use some air in the tires.

Cleaned up the whole garage and put down brand new cardboard under the drivetrain. I'll check back in a few hours and over the next couple of days to make sure it stays clean. I think it will this time!!

Tomorrow I'll try and figure out that throttle arm issue. It never happened before and nothing really changed.

[DeLorean03]

Finally, some closure. Went out to check on it in the garage this morning. No oil at all on the floor overnight after running the motor for 20 or so minutes last night. Feeling cautiously optimistic, I reinstalled the heat shields, impact absorber, rear fascia, taillights and lower engine cover. Basically put the whole car back together. Fought yet again with the DMCH reproduction radiator duct. I swear that thing hates me. It doesn't fit for crap!

Drove about 20 miles around town to really warm things up. Aside from a high idle (throttle arm not returning fully to rest, if I blip the pedal I can usually get it back to an even 750) it felt and ran great. Could probably use some air in the tires.

Cleaned up the whole garage and put down brand new cardboard under the drivetrain. I'll check back in a few hours and over the next couple of days to make sure it stays clean. I think it will this time!!

Tomorrow I'll try and figure out that throttle arm issue. It never happened before and nothing really changed.

Good for you, bud. You've been putting some serious time into that. Happy for you, man :thumbup:!

Throttle - move the throttle spool by hand with the engine off - listen for the idle speed microswitch to "click." If NOTHING was messed with at all before you did all your engine work, you may be able to get away with just turning the idle speed microswitch inward in a bit more to make the screw longer and have a better chance of tripping the microswitch.

Possible worst case scenario - the throttle cable itself is starting to stick.

[jawn101]

Good for you, bud. You've been putting some serious time into that. Happy for you, man :thumbup:!

Throttle - move the throttle spool by hand with the engine off - listen for the idle speed microswitch to "click." If NOTHING was messed with at all before you did all your engine work, you may be able to get away with just turning the idle speed microswitch inward in a bit more to make the screw longer and have a better chance of tripping the microswitch.

Possible worst case scenario - the throttle cable itself is starting to stick.

Thanks! Been a long job but I owe most of the kudos to the local guys, especially Clint...

And yeah, we tried all that fiddling with the spool and cable. There is a factory paint mark on my idle screw and I know it's not been disturbed. When the idle sticks high, you can turn the throttle spool backwards a tiny bit by hand and the microswitch will engage, lowering the idle. I think it might actually have been the arm itself, as I normally remove it from one end only - typically from the throttle body itself. This time I took it off at both ends and was cleaning it up. It's possible I knocked one of the ends so it's too short now, or perhaps turned the whole rod around when reinstalling it. Though I don't think that would make any difference.

On a related topic, does anyone else notice their air cleaner box doesn't quite line up? Mine has trouble lining up the three bolt holes when it's pressed down onto the mixture unit. I have to kinda feather things into place. It does go eventually, but...

[DeLorean03]

Thanks! Been a long job but I owe most of the kudos to the local guys, especially Clint...

And yeah, we tried all that fiddling with the spool and cable. There is a factory paint mark on my idle screw and I know it's not been disturbed. When the idle sticks high, you can turn the throttle spool backwards a tiny bit by hand and the microswitch will engage, lowering the idle. I think it might actually have been the arm itself, as I normally remove it from one end only - typically from the throttle body itself. This time I took it off at both ends and was cleaning it up. It's possible I knocked one of the ends so it's too short now, or perhaps turned the whole rod around when reinstalling it. Though I don't think that would make any difference.

On a related topic, does anyone else notice their air cleaner box doesn't quite line up? Mine has trouble lining up the three bolt holes when it's pressed down onto the mixture unit. I have to kinda feather things into place. It does go eventually, but...

There's a reason it has two adjustable ends - very tiny changes in it make a decent difference. I have been surprised the recent fiddling I've done with mine how a little change can make a substantial difference.

[DMC81]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ZtpTVR_K5-I

I know this is not a big deal for most of you guys but I was pretty proud of my self since it was my first time doing this. lol

[jawn101]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ZtpTVR_K5-I

I know this is not a big deal for most of you guys but I was pretty proud of my self since it was my first time doing this. lol

Might wanna loosely thread the fuel bolts back into the distributor to keep crud from getting inside. Good job!

[DMC81]

Might wanna loosely thread the fuel bolts back into the distributor to keep crud from getting inside. Good job!

Thanks for the tip, I did put a piece of tape over each hole thinking that would be ok.

[DMCMW Dave]

Top, compr to condenser. The steering column rubbed through it (common problem I'm told). The protective pad in between the hose and steering column was attached on the wrong side, and as I took a turn I heard a pop and pshhhhhh.

The hose is supposed to be zip-tied to the brake line (?!?) at the factory. It is often rotted away by now. An unfortunate design flaw. We see many cars come in with a metal splice in that exact spot that was likely installed in the mid-1980s rather than replacing the whole line.

[DeLorean03]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ZtpTVR_K5-I

I know this is not a big deal for most of you guys but I was pretty proud of my self since it was my first time doing this. lol

That's great, Mike! You're doing a good job there! As for taking the intake off - why not? Four more bolts and you're there. GREAT opportunity to do some 20+ year old stuff. Get all new bolts for everything - no not re-use your Y-coolant pipe bolts or your 4 intake manifold anchoring bolts if you do decide to take the intake manifold off.

Nice job :thumbup:!

[ramblinmike]

I installed Ed Uding's beautiful aluminum radiator!

[DMC81]

That's great, Mike! You're doing a good job there! As for taking the intake off - why not? Four more bolts and you're there. GREAT opportunity to do some 20+ year old stuff. Get all new bolts for everything - no not re-use your Y-coolant pipe bolts or your 4 intake manifold anchoring bolts if you do decide to take the intake manifold off.

Nice job :thumbup:!


Thanks! I do plan to replace most of the bolts why it apart and like you said I'm sure I'll go ahead and take it all the way down since I made it this far.

[jawn101]

I installed Ed Uding's beautiful aluminum radiator!

Hey Mike, do you have the original plastic radiator duct or the fiberglass reproduction?

That radiator really is pretty... a real shame to hide it behind the chipped up condenser.

[vwdmc16]

Finally finshed my c4 Corvette 3rd brake light install, i think i will write a how to when i get the pics uploaded. Even installed a quick disconnect from a old BMW to help when the louvers are removed.

[Mark D]

I took my car in for 4 wheel alignment and brought this service bulletin with me for the alignment specs.

http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-34-1.82.html

I also brought along a few extra shims for adjusting the rear toe. Everything is now set up as it should be and I'm all set to drive down to the DMCMW open house on Saturday!

With the new shocks, lowered stance, poly bushings up front, and the lower control arm supports I noticed a marked improvement in the steering response and handling. The last step is to install the DMCMW front strut bar brace and the suspension will finally be done. I'm really impressed with how well the car drives now and it makes me feel like all the work I've been doing on the car was worth the time and money.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19762&d=1370870641

[DMC81]

I took my car in for 4 wheel alignment and brought this service bulletin with me for the alignment specs.

http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-34-1.82.html

I also brought along a few extra shims for adjusting the rear toe. Everything is now set up as it should be and I'm all set to drive down to the DMCMW open house on Saturday!

With the new shocks, lowered stance, poly bushings up front, and the lower control arm supports I noticed a marked improvement in the steering response and handling. The last step is to install the DMCMW front strut bar brace and the suspension will finally be done. I'm really impressed with how well the car drives now and it makes me feel like all the work I've been doing on the car was worth the time and money.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19762&d=1370870641

Looks like you have treated her right from the photo, nice work.

[Mark D]

Thanks! You can catch a peek of the yellow zinc plated exhaust brackets in that pic. It's kind of a bummer though how quickly the center section of the stock muffler discolors from heat. I thought about ceramic coating it silver but I think a high performance exhaust is in my future in the next couple of years anyway.

[DMC81]

Went to remove the intake today, 3 of the 4 bolts came out great. The last one is very very tight so it is soaking in a pool of PB Blaster. :wrenchin:

[ramblinmike]

Hey Mike, do you have the original plastic radiator duct or the fiberglass reproduction?

That radiator really is pretty... a real shame to hide it behind the chipped up condenser.

I've got the original duct. You are absolutely correct - it is a shame to hide it!

[jawn101]

I've got the original duct. You are absolutely correct - it is a shame to hide it!

Hmm. No trouble fitting it around the wider radiator, I take it. That fiberglass reproduction is a very expensive frustration.

On another note - today I fixed my return-to-idle issue by removing the linkage rod, cleaning and relubricating it and lengthening it a quarter-turn. Now I return to idle every time with no blipping the pedal. Also convinced my Dave M dome light timer to exit parade mode. With all the work lately it had gotten stuck there and the blinking dome lights were driving me mad :)

Next up is to check the mixture now that the new fuel pump is installed, to verify no adjustments are needed.

Took another drive. Tomorrow it's a thorough wash to get all the sawdust and greasy handprints off. For now I'm celebrating a job well done with some wine...

[DMC81]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqavNEmW9yE&feature=player_detailpage

The bolt on the intake came out! Thank you Delorean gods! lol

[jawn101]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqavNEmW9yE&feature=player_detailpage

The bolt on the intake came out! Thank you Delorean gods! lol

Congrats! Now you gotta clean out that valley.... yikes :)

[DMC81]

Congrats! Now you gotta clean out that valley.... yikes :)

Thanks! Whats good to use, brake cleaner?

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks! Whats good to use, brake cleaner?

Start with a vacuum cleaner.

[DMC81]

Start with a vacuum cleaner.

I had to leave right after I got it off but it looks like a lot of dirt..lol

[DMC5180]

+1 on the vacuum. The good thing is it's DRY DIRT. You will need patients and a long screw driver to Pick loose the crusty stuff and to dig out the 4 deep pockets.

I have a shop-vac with a mini-vac attatchment kit (For doing confinded space cleaning) it worked great at getting down in the pockets.

[DMC81]

+1 on the vacuum. The good thing is it's DRY DIRT. You will need patients and a long screw driver to Pick loose the crusty stuff and to dig out the 4 deep pockets.

I have a shop-vac with a mini-vac attatchment kit (For doing confinded space cleaning) it worked great at getting down in the pockets.

Looks like what ever was in there was making a beach..lol

[jawn101]

Not that I can add any weight to Dave and Dennis, but yes - a vacuum to start with. Don't accidentally get crap down in your cylinders! You did the right thing stuffing those paper towels in. You might consider something with a little more sealing power for the short term - maybe some duct tape right over the holes (remove the paper towels first though) just so anything you kick up vacuuming doesn't go down there.

Keep at it, the valley is nowhere near as scary as everyone says :) Unless you find something actually scary... like block rot or a colony of snails...

[DMC81]

Not that I can add any weight to Dave and Dennis, but yes - a vacuum to start with. Don't accidentally get crap down in your cylinders! You did the right thing stuffing those paper towels in. You might consider something with a little more sealing power for the short term - maybe some duct tape right over the holes (remove the paper towels first though) just so anything you kick up vacuuming doesn't go down there.

Keep at it, the valley is nowhere near as scary as everyone says :) Unless you find something actually scary... like block rot or a colony of snails...

I have to admit, it was not as bad as I thought it would be. All the hype I have herd really had me scared, not to mention that last intake bolt. I was so sure it was about to snap but I got it.

[eagle-co94]

Got my Evolution cover in from Big Sky and put it on. Not a really tight fit but it should work for most weather (hurricane season not really included). I think the cut is quite good though.

[DeLorean03]

I have to admit, it was not as bad as I thought it would be. All the hype I have herd really had me scared, not to mention that last intake bolt. I was so sure it was about to snap but I got it.

Great job, Mike! You're doing a really good job here. Everyone here has really said it all - nothing for me to add. All new everything as you rebuild - seals and O-rings. You'll be so happy you did this - the peace of mind knowing your valley is sound really is like nothing else.

I would paint the inside of the valley with a paint that is resistant to antifreeze to keep block rot from ever occurring. If that is the original waterpump, I would highly consider changing it while you're there.

I know, easy for me to spend someone else's moeny, but hey, a waterpump change now that you're there = much easier to do.

[ramblinmike]

Hmm. No trouble fitting it around the wider radiator, I take it. That fiberglass reproduction is a very expensive frustration.

The original duct is very 'bendy' and doesn't seem to have a problem with the Uding radiator. Sorry the fiberglass one is giving you fits!

[DMC81]

Great job, Mike! You're doing a really good job here. Everyone here has really said it all - nothing for me to add. All new everything as you rebuild - seals and O-rings. You'll be so happy you did this - the peace of mind knowing your valley is sound really is like nothing else.

I would paint the inside of the valley with a paint that is resistant to antifreeze to keep block rot from ever occurring. If that is the original waterpump, I would highly consider changing it while you're there.

I know, easy for me to spend someone else's moeny, but hey, a waterpump change now that you're there = much easier to do.

Thanks for the kind words buddy, I am going to replace everything in the vod (vacuum switch & lambda sensor, o-rings ect.) just not sure about the water pump yet. Also still debating on coating the vod, I hear alot of pros and cons. Not sure what to do just yet....lol

[vwdmc16]

Keep at it, the valley is nowhere near as scary as everyone says :) Unless you find something actually scary... like block rot or a colony of snails...



Snails!!! HA what kinda idiot could have snails in his VOD....... oh wait.:wink:

[Kenny_Z]

Thanks for the kind words buddy, I am going to replace everything in the vod (vacuum switch & lambda sensor, o-rings ect.) just not sure about the water pump yet. Also still debating on coating the vod, I hear alot of pros and cons. Not sure what to do just yet....lol

I'm thinking about coating my VOD now that my waterpump developed a leak (more like a stream) and I have to replace it. I'd say if you're in there anyway replace the pump. I just finished a lot of work on my engine and fired her up only to find the pump is now leaking. It absolutely sucks to tear everything back down to fix something like that. I just got off the phone with Julie at DMCW to order a new pump.

[DMC81]

I'm thinking about coating my VOD now that my waterpump developed a leak (more like a stream) and I have to replace it. I'd say if you're in there anyway replace the pump. I just finished a lot of work on my engine and fired her up only to find the pump is now leaking. It absolutely sucks to tear everything back down to fix something like that. I just got off the phone with Julie at DMCW to order a new pump.

I'm leaning towards the same route I think also. Hows is your car coming by the way? It was looking pretty good the last time I saw with the paint removal.

[Kenny_Z]

If I could get about a week of reasonable humidity I could get the fascias painted. Then it'd just be a matter of reassembly. It's been storms and miserable heat for the passed three weeks. On the upside I think all the straightening I did on my front fascia is going to work. It hasn't eyebrowed yet.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/fascia26.jpg

[Josh]

I'm thinking about coating my VOD now that my waterpump developed a leak (more like a stream) and I have to replace it. I'd say if you're in there anyway replace the pump. I just finished a lot of work on my engine and fired her up only to find the pump is now leaking. It absolutely sucks to tear everything back down to fix something like that. I just got off the phone with Julie at DMCW to order a new pump.

I was thinking of cutting an aluminum plate to cover the valley and sealing it with high temp silicon. So if the waterpump leaks it is an easy cleanup and doesnt get caught in the block. However if not properly sealed it could trap the coolant underneigth as well. Coolant is nasty stuff when it sits on aluminum for a while, RIP original PRV haha

[DMC81]

If I could get about a week of reasonable humidity I could get the fascias painted. Then it'd just be a matter of reassembly. It's been storms and miserable heat for the passed three weeks. On the upside I think all the straightening I did on my front fascia is going to work. It hasn't eyebrowed yet.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/fascia26.jpg

Time, money and weather will stop a project fast....lol Glad to see your still working on her tho, keep it up!:thumbup:

[jawn101]

Washed it and cleaned the wheels with that lug nut brush. Huge difference. Looks great and ready to drive again!

[vwdmc16]

Finally welded in an additional O2 bung before the Cat so I can begin to wire up my Wideband O2, yet another step in the EFi swap.

[dmc6960]

Spend the whole day working on recovering the drivers seat with the heating and cooling mods now in place. About 1-2 hours of work tomorrow and it will be complete. Then the drivers and passenger seats can finally go back into their proper positions and anyone can try them out at the DMCMW open house on Saturday.

Pictures tomorrow.

[Mark D]

Yesterday I made the first long trip in my car since finishing the rebuild... I'm happy to report that I made the 70 mile journey to my new house with no issues. The temp gauge never made it past the first tick mark on the dial so the new aluminum reproduction radiator from DMCH seems to be doing its job very well.

The A/C is offically dead though which made for a bit of a warm trip. The service records of the PO show that a can or two of R12 was added every couple of years to keep the system charged. I've been reading up on a few other threads here about R134a conversion. If I can find the source of the leak and can patch it up I may just stick with R12. Not sure what to do at this point yet.

[Farrar]

I installed the diodes in the courtesy light circuit. It still doesn't behave correctly.

I cleaned and organized the garage and covered the car. Time to study some schematics -- I may have to remove Dave McKeen's new courtesy light delay module and return the socket wiring to stock configuration.

A discouraging afternoon.

[DeLorean03]

I installed the diodes in the courtesy light circuit. It still doesn't behave correctly.

I cleaned and organized the garage and covered the car. Time to study some schematics -- I may have to remove Dave McKeen's new courtesy light delay module and return the socket wiring to stock configuration.

A discouraging afternoon.

Would you happen to have a reference photograph for this?

[Farrar]

Would you happen to have a reference photograph for this?

My camera is charging at the moment. What would you like a photograph of?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I installed the diodes in the courtesy light circuit. It still doesn't behave correctly.

I cleaned and organized the garage and covered the car. Time to study some schematics -- I may have to remove Dave McKeen's new courtesy light delay module and return the socket wiring to stock configuration.

A discouraging afternoon.

It won't work with those switching regulator LEDs that superbright is selling. Just jumper my unit out and test if all is working as expected first. Then we can get the new dome unit working.

[Farrar]

It won't work with those switching regulator LEDs that superbright is selling. Just jumper my unit out and test if all is working as expected first. Then we can get the new dome unit working.

Dave, I actually just sent you a message about that. :) I think it may have to do with the fact that my glove compartment is not installed...

[DeLorean03]

My camera is charging at the moment. What would you like a photograph of?

If I recall correctly, there is some kind of "fix" for bringing back the "auto turn off after 10 seconds" feature for the newer domelights sold by the vendors. I figured that's what you were referring to? Maybe I was wrong... D: ?

[Farrar]

If I recall correctly, there is some kind of "fix" for bringing back the "auto turn off after 10 seconds" feature for the newer domelights sold by the vendors. I figured that's what you were referring to? Maybe I was wrong... D: ?

I don't have the newer dome light (I sourced a Hella replacement from a Porsche for the fixture and installed LED boards - should last forever). I do have Dave M's courtesy light module. All of the interior and door lights are LEDs, but everything was working fine before I dismantled the interior.

I noticed two things:

First, although the interior/courtesy light schematic doesn't include the trunk light, when the interior lights are off my car loses the trunk light, as well. So my car seems different from how it should be -- could be an "early VIN" thing.

Second, my glove box is not in the car, and Dave's module uses the glove box switch for programming the module. It could be that the unit needs to be re-programmed and this is its default "unprogrammed" behaviour.

I think I need to fix the trunk light problem first, though. It's annoying not being able to see the tools in there after sunset. :P

For now, Sparky sleeps...

19817

[dmc6960]

Now driving down to Illinois for a layover tonight followed by the DMCMW open house on Saturday!

[DavidProehl]

Took it to the General Mills Lodi Plant employee car show yesterday. Since I was the winner last year, a picture of my car was on this year's plaque. I also wasn't eligible for any awards this year.

198201982119822

[Kenny_Z]

I hope the Belair with the realistic flames won something. That artwork looks beautiful.

[DavidProehl]

Yes, I wasn't here 2 years ago, but apparently it won then. Since it is a small show, once you win you can't win for 3 years, only show. Here is another picture of that paint job.

19825

[jawn101]

Took it to the General Mills Lodi Plant employee car show yesterday. Since I was the winner last year, a picture of my car was on this year's plaque. I also wasn't eligible for any awards this year.

198201982119822

You rock, David! :)

[Farrar]

Added a little something to the HVAC system...
19827

[Kenny_Z]

Thanks for the second picture David. That thing is beautiful.

[LordFly]

Added a little something to the HVAC system...
19827

Is that to correct the direction of the blower motor? I just made a temporary version of that myself, just to get to the DMC Mid West open house and back. I'll do a proper one when I get back. Makes a huge difference for volume of airflow!!

[Farrar]

Is that to correct the direction of the blower motor?

No, it's to alter the function of the HVAC Mode Switch so that the compressor will be engaged when "heat" and "defog" are selected. (Also, technically, when "vent" and "bi-level" are selected, but I never use those.) All I'm doing is connecting the compressor "signal" to the lead from the Mode Switch to the Fan Switch.