What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Patrick C]

So if i drive to your house will you fix my doors? hahaha. I am going to keep picking away at mine. The problem with mine is there are many more variables in play. The door shells have been swapped so I am tinkering with lock and latch adjustments. Also, the hinge bolts need to be tweaked as well. The exterior door handle cable is causing issues as well.

I would be more than happy to help you if you find yourself in my neck of the woods! I would suggest getting the door locks and latches adjusted first. You can do this with the doors open and using a screwdriver in place of the striker pins to close and open the latches (simulating the door opening and closing.) You obviously want both latches to open at the same time, not one and then another. This is key to getting a smoothly opening door when you pull the handle.

I had problems with my exterior handle cable at one point too, and flushing the cable sheath with WD-40 and then putting lightweight oil down it fixed everything completely. Good luck!

[Josh]

I would be more than happy to help you if you find yourself in my neck of the woods! I would suggest getting the door locks and latches adjusted first. You can do this with the doors open and using a screwdriver in place of the striker pins to close and open the latches (simulating the door opening and closing.) You obviously want both latches to open at the same time, not one and then another. This is key to getting a smoothly opening door when you pull the handle.

I had problems with my exterior handle cable at one point too, and flushing the cable sheath with WD-40 and then putting lightweight oil down it fixed everything completely. Good luck!

I may take you up on that offer one day haha. I have already done you have described to ensure the function of the latches. I am going to try and swap out my front latch, it seems to have problems unlocking, leaving the door jammed closed. I can always reset it by pulling the rod and unlocking it.

[Farrar]

Did you get this addressed already, Farrar?

The part you described as "strangeness stomping on the gas from a stop" sounds to me like the adjustable linkage going between the throttle spool and the lever arm on the butterfly valves needs to be shortened/lengthened. Something along these lines happened to me on my car and it was at least partly related to the linkage having too much slack in it. It's not the easiest thing in the world to adjust, but not too terribly difficult. If you can get away with doing a full 360 degree length adjustment (by dialing in/out the one end a complete revolution) you can avoid getting in further and disconnecting both ends. Being able to adjust both ends though is likely the better way to go to get it right.

No, I didn't get this addressed. I haven't driven the car since that day (been out of town) so I haven't been able to see if it would happen again. Will check trans fluid first, though -- that and oil were the only things changed before the symptom appeared. Maybe I didn't put enough fluid in...? Will also try to get video evidence of problem so others can chime in to help. Was unlike anything I experienced before.

[DeLorean03]

A little bit closer...

21264

All speakers hooked up and remote wire to head unit ready.

21262

Tentatively sitting in place - most wires not hooked up yet.

21263

Bringing the DeLorean to the modern world with Bluetooth, HD Radio, Pandora capable, iPod ready, and aux in as well as USB plugs in the back. It's going to be awesome!

[Jonathan]

Looked intently over my left shoulder while sitting in the drivers seat and noticed there is a little stick figure type image of a car with the hood open on the engine cover release pull handle. Had never seen that before. Mind you it's an image of a car with the hood open... on the front of the car :)

Do they all look like this?

[opethmike]

Looked intently over my left shoulder while sitting in the drivers seat and noticed there is a little stick figure type image of a car with the hood open on the engine cover release pull handle. Had never seen that before. Mind you it's an image of a car with the hood open... on the front of the car :)

Do they all look like this?

Mine does.

And today, I experimented with different noise filters in my MS ECU.

[DavidProehl]

Looked intently over my left shoulder while sitting in the drivers seat and noticed there is a little stick figure type image of a car with the hood open on the engine cover release pull handle. Had never seen that before. Mind you it's an image of a car with the hood open... on the front of the car :)

Do they all look like this?

5 years of ownership and using it regularly, but never noticed that. Must be a generic hood release pull.

[Nick774]

Well after a lot of welding and POR-15 and a touch of Lab metal, 774's new donor frame is finished! Now to connect all the frame components. New motor mounts, blue silicon hoses everywhere, cleaned and painted the fuel lines and coolant pipes, transmission mounts and a few other goodies on the way. Im quite happy with how my front extension turned out. I test fitted the rack and its smooth.

Note: Please Disregard the rusty suspension components. I have been sandblasting all the susp. parts from the first frame and will be replacing everything. I just left these on to keep the frame mobile. Next I have to strip those wheels. I really want the machine finished wheels. Anyways enjoy :burnout:

21267212682126921270212712127221273212742127521276 21277

[Jonathan]

5 years of ownership and using it regularly, but never noticed that. Must be a generic hood release pull.

Yea, same here. I normally don't even look in there as I reach for it... mostly just grab it by feel. I happened to be sitting in the driveway with the door open and when I was looking around checking stuff out, the sun got that particular area nicely lit. Surprises aren't normally all that great on our cars, but this one was ok.

Now, as for reaching up and around near the rockscreen and skirting... one of the captive nut brackets was literally just sitting there and I grabbed it. Crazy rusty piece of junk was all that is left of it and not capable of holding anything in place. Upon further inspection, I don't think there is a single fastener still technically holding any of that rockscreen or radiator shroud in place. I think it is being held in place with the Force. It's all coming out pretty soon though and I'll put new fasteners back in when I do. I see Josh at DPI has a nice SS replacement bracket kit complete with nuts and rivets. Anyone put this in on their car? Seems like a nice upgrade part worth getting to me.

[John U]

Spent a long time going over the suspension and shift rods looking for what made the horrible clunk on my way home from a car show.......turns out it was a can of window cleaner that rolled and hit the inside wall of the trunk :blush:

[Josh]

Well after a lot of welding and POR-15 and a touch of Lab metal, 774's new donor frame is finished! Now to connect all the frame components. New motor mounts, blue silicon hoses everywhere, cleaned and painted the fuel lines and coolant pipes, transmission mounts and a few other goodies on the way. Im quite happy with how my front extension turned out. I test fitted the rack and its smooth.

Note: Please Disregard the rusty suspension components. I have been sandblasting all the susp. parts from the first frame and will be replacing everything. I just left these on to keep the frame mobile. Next I have to strip those wheels. I really want the machine finished wheels. Anyways enjoy :burnout:



Looks great! Im in the process of bolting my chassis together as well!

[opethmike]

Today I drove my car and nothing went wrong! After weeks of fighting electrical issues, this was a welcome relief!

[DMC81]

Well after a lot of welding and POR-15 and a touch of Lab metal, 774's new donor frame is finished! Now to connect all the frame components. New motor mounts, blue silicon hoses everywhere, cleaned and painted the fuel lines and coolant pipes, transmission mounts and a few other goodies on the way. Im quite happy with how my front extension turned out. I test fitted the rack and its smooth.

Note: Please Disregard the rusty suspension components. I have been sandblasting all the susp. parts from the first frame and will be replacing everything. I just left these on to keep the frame mobile. Next I have to strip those wheels. I really want the machine finished wheels. Anyways enjoy :burnout:

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Did you strip the entire frame or just as needed and retouch?

[Rich]

Completed a few little catch-up jobs up front on the left:

1. Replaced the clutch reservoir line (pulled the original and "sweaty"-but-still-OK) just for piece of mind.
2. Wiped down the frame where the clutch fluid spilled as the lower clutch reservoir hose connection came loose, as expected. At least I managed to suction the fluid out of the reservoir first.
3. Refilled and tested.
3. While both of the trunk access panels were off for that job:
a. Strung a secondary/backup trunk release pull-wire from the trunk latch lever to an inconspicuous but accessible location inboard of the left frt suspension. Inspected main release cable at both ends (OK).
b. Removed, cleaned, reattached the multi-wire ground lugs that are held by the 10mm bolt that's remarkably easy to get to on top of the frame - when the brake access cover is off.

[Patrick C]

I bought some new 48 SMD LED boards off of eBay and was looking for places to use them. I ended up installing one in the engine bay light, and it is 100 times brighter than ever before! At night, I feel I could actually change an alternator belt on the side of the road now. Well worth it. I also ended up using one on each side of the car for footwell lighting when the doors open up. It looks very modern and is a nice, soft, white light. I can't stand the cold white LED lighting that you see sometimes. I also wired the lights so that both sides come on when either door is opened, like a modern vehicle.

Here is the 48 LED board that I put in the engine compartment light, as well as the old 9 LED festoon bulb that I removed. It never really threw much light.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21397&d=1376859151

For some reason this picture is flipped horizontally, but you get the idea:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21396&d=1376859141

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21398&d=1376859202
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21399&d=1376859230
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21400&d=1376859272

[jmpdmc]

Installed Bitsyncmaster's solid state fan and fan fail relays. They work and look terrific, as expected. Not so for my continuing attempt to find LED brake lights which are as bright or brighter than stock and last. I tried these 1156 Cree center bulb with 12 SMD side emitting LED's http://www.ebay.com/itm/330972868919?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Last week, when 2 bulbs arrived so I could test them before I bought 4, within 15 seconds 1 bulb's center Cree LED failed with a bad electrical burning smell. I emailed the seller and they quickly sent a replacement. Today, within 10-15 seconds, original good bulb had center Cree out and other bulb was lit but smoking as it self-destructed. The inside of my car is almost all LED but stable brake lights remain elusive. Members over at hidplanet.com put down these plug and play bulbs since they have no or little voltage regulation/current limiting capabilities. Many of you seem to have good luck with these bulbs but buyer beware on the above ones.

[vwdmc16]

I hope I fixed my worst leak coming from the left cam cover under the AC belt tensioner, one of the old bolts was too short and not gripping, New bolts with sealant on them should do the trick.

Also glued in the lower engine lid grilles, No more heavy and unsightly metal retainer strips, Also reglued my driver upper door panel that wasnt quite on straight before.

[Mike F]

Installed Bitsyncmaster's solid state fan and fan fail relays. They work and look terrific, as expected. Not so for my continuing attempt to find LED brake lights which are as bright or brighter than stock and last. I tried these 1156 Cree center bulb with 12 SMD side emitting LED's http://www.ebay.com/itm/330972868919?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Last week, when 2 bulbs arrived so I could test them before I bought 4, within 15 seconds 1 bulb's center Cree LED failed with a bad electrical burning smell. I emailed the seller and they quickly sent a replacement. Today, within 10-15 seconds, original good bulb had center Cree out and other bulb was lit but smoking as it self-destructed. The inside of my car is almost all LED but stable brake lights remain elusive. Members over at hidplanet.com put down these plug and play bulbs since they have no or little voltage regulation/current limiting capabilities. Many of you seem to have good luck with these bulbs but buyer beware on the above ones.

jmpdmc-

When I converted mine over to LED I used these bulbs for my brake lights:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-led-bulb-single-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/163/

They are a bit pricey, but they are quite bright. I'd say even brighter than the standard incandescent bulbs. Installed them back in March and they're still (knock on wood) running strong.

[sdg3205]

I drove 3205 471 miles (753 km) from Vancouver to Kelowna and back to see a band. All in a little over 14 hours.

I saw 120 mph on a few occasions, the fastest I've ever driven.

Here's an amusing picture coming down the mountains into Kelowna... in neutral.

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[eagle-co94]

Glad I've got that 170 speedo...that way I don't have to worry about pegging the speedo.

[sdg3205]

Glad I've got that 170 speedo...that way I don't have to worry about pegging the speedo.

Yeah, I have to rely on a GPS for speeds above 85.

[jawn101]

Glad I've got that 170 speedo...that way I don't have to worry about pegging the speedo.

Something I've always wondered - is there anything mechanically "bad" about pegging these speedos? I've worked a lot with tiny gear trains in my other hobby (repairing vintage watches) and know that these things can be touchy. What happens if you get to 90 with the OEM speedo? Is it going to grind anything internally?

[NightFlyer]

Something I've always wondered - is there anything mechanically "bad" about pegging these speedos? I've worked a lot with tiny gear trains in my other hobby (repairing vintage watches) and know that these things can be touchy. What happens if you get to 90 with the OEM speedo? Is it going to grind anything internally?

There are a good many reports on the DML of the speedo getting stuck when pegged, which is why I've never run my car beyond 85mph.

[Jonathan]

There are a good many reports on the DML of the speedo getting stuck when pegged, which is why I've never run my car beyond 85mph.

http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/about/bill203.shtml

The 50 over law in Ontario is a good enough reason for me. Most highways in rural areas are 80 kmph zones and the major divided highways are 100 kmph. 50 over would be at 130 kmph and 150 kmph... which is about 81 mph and 93 mph. I'll pass on the impounded car for 1 week, immediate license suspension and $10,000 fine, thanks.

[dmc6960]

There are a good many reports on the DML of the speedo getting stuck when pegged, which is why I've never run my car beyond 85mph.

That makes no sense. Have some reference links?

The speedometer needle is magnetically driven. There is nothing to clash if the needle is pegged. The only thing which could happen, and this extremely remote, is a loss of needle calibration if it slides on the shaft due to the torque from the drive mechanism.

[dmc6960]

And just to add to that...

I've twice had my car going 125mph. No problems with the speedometer due to the speed.

[vwdmc16]

is there anything mechanically "bad" about pegging these speedos? ... Is it going to grind anything internally?


No it wont hurt the needle or anything like that, the needle is turned with a spinning magnet so there are no real gears to grind or any physical connection that can bind up, the odometer is all gear reduction and could be damaged but only if there was already a cracked gear or lack of grease. The cable it self could bind but only if it instantly ran out of lubrication too.

The difference between a 85 mph speedo and a 140 mph speedo is merely the strength of the needle return spring which the rotating magnet has to spin faster to over come, the odometer and gearing is the same and a pretty standard design across hundreds of car models.

[NightFlyer]

That makes no sense. Have some reference links?

The speedometer needle is magnetically driven. There is nothing to clash if the needle is pegged. The only thing which could happen, and this extremely remote, is a loss of needle calibration if it slides on the shaft due to the torque from the drive mechanism.

Never said it was right - just something that I had previously read over a decade ago. While I searched the DML, I couldn't find anything regarding this, however, am certain that I read it somewhere a long time ago. I just can't find it now. As the DeLorean gauge cluster uses a GM design, I believe that the 'myth' predicated from the fact that some GM speedo's of that era were known to get stuck when pegged, which is easy enough to verify by doing a simple Google search. Apparently, GM was using multiple designs at the time, however, the DeLorean was not fitted with a design known to exhibit this problem. It would appear that the problematic designs were early electronic designs, and not mechanical.

Accordingly, I stand corrected.

[Kenny_Z]

I retimed her. Driving yesterday there was a noticeable lack of power and sputtering. I guess I'm just dumb and didn't tighten down the nut all the way. Some how she worked her way down to 8 degrees. I made sure to tighten it down after I set her back. I don't want to go through that again and if I do I'm going to buy a longer wrench.

[jawn101]

No it wont hurt the needle or anything like that, the needle is turned with a spinning magnet so there are no real gears to grind or any physical connection that can bind up, the odometer is all gear reduction and could be damaged but only if there was already a cracked gear or lack of grease. The cable it self could bind but only if it instantly ran out of lubrication too.

The difference between a 85 mph speedo and a 140 mph speedo is merely the strength of the needle return spring which the rotating magnet has to spin faster to over come, the odometer and gearing is the same and a pretty standard design across hundreds of car models.

Cool man, thanks! Never taken a speedo apart before. If you remember that pocket watch I gave you that only lasted 5 minutes, you'll see that my "repair" skills are quite limited.... :lol: - but the concepts are there.

[Nick774]

Did you strip the entire frame or just as needed and retouch?

We chipped away for days to reveal all weak areas and repainted as necessary with POR15 gray. I welded in some patches where needed and touched up any areas with some lab metal with POR15 over that too. My lovely lady restored most of the frame herself with all the painting and lab metal. I just did the patching and welding.

[DeLorean03]

Was a couple days ago, but nonetheless, this:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1ffEkq1wRo&feature=youtu.be


And let me tell you, getting those doors adjusted JUST right to where they will latch properly and open by ways of the remote - that is some surgical precision there. I was moving those striker pins probably in terms of millimeters to get it just perfect. Needless to say, shaky hands are not helpful.

Patrick C - one day - we'll adjust my doors via your method. As for now, they open beautifully, and they "stop" just before the top of their journey. I am so not messing with them for a while.

[DMC81]

215422154321544

Yep, I knew it was going to smooth 1,2 & 3 came right out and then..SNAP on the fourth one! :nervous:

[dmc6960]

Yep, I knew it was going to smooth 1,2 & 3 came right out and then..SNAP on the fourth one! :nervous:

That one commonly breaks. Whatever you do, do NOT use a screw extractor on it!

[jawn101]

That one commonly breaks. Whatever you do, do NOT use a screw extractor on it!

+1, that is the one and only bolt ever to break on my car. Dunno what it is about that spot, but it's common. You'll get through it!

[DMC81]

That one commonly breaks. Whatever you do, do NOT use a screw extractor on it!

I'm not going to be the one doing it but may I ask why not?

[dmc6960]

I'm not going to be the one doing it but may I ask why not?

Here on DMCTalk alone there are at least 10 of us who've experienced the fun of breaking off an extractor in the bolt. That is much much much worse than dealing with a plain ol' bolt. Usually in this very spot.

[DMC81]

Here on DMCTalk alone there are at least 10 of us who've experienced the fun of breaking off an extractor in the bolt. That is much much much worse than dealing with a plain ol' bolt. Usually in this very spot.

Well thanks for the tip, I will definitely pass it on to the guy who is going to do it for me. I have never removed a broken bolt and I dont plan to practice on my car...lol

[Delorean02378]

August 2nd -
1. Replaced the alternator
2. Added LED bulbs to the doors
3. Changed the oil
4. Replaced the oil sending unit

August 22d -
1. Replaced the angle drive

Thanks for all the help Kyle....

[Farrar]

Opened the garage and looked at it.
Closed the garage.
Sighed heavily.

[DMC5180]

Well thanks for the tip, I will definitely pass it on to the guy who is going to do it for me. I have never removed a broken bolt and I dont plan to practice on my car...lol

The reason that one seems to break is due to corrosion which is precipitated from the steel coolant pipe tab under the bolt head. It is a bit like cancer, it starts on the pipe and migrates onto the bolt then into the aluminum casting where corrosion process turns the aluminum into a thick oxide layer (seizing the shank of the bolt to the Y-pipe).

I have had good luck removing that Broken bolt in the past. The trick is to get the Y-PIPE loose. Apply a good penetrant on the broken bolt and let soak. (I prefer Aero Kroil) Then with the other bolts out, you can Twist the Y-pipe a little to hopefully release the casting from the bolt stub and remove the pipe. Worst case you may have too Step drill the bolt somewhat to Full diameter. Depth is important. The goal being not to drill the bolt out, but rather just into it enough to get the Y-pipe OFF. With the y-pipe out of the way, hopefully there is still a fair amount of bolt shank sticking above the Threaded Case hole. At this point a couple things can be done to remove the bolt stub. Both require HEAT. When I did this I used a Very HOT HEAT GUN with a concentrating TIP. An Oxy/Acetylene torch would be Ideal or a Simple Bottle torch (I prefer MAPP gas [it's Hotter] over Propane) would work too. I simply applied heat to the Casting Boss. Then with a good VISE-GRIP clamped on the exposed STUB I was able to get it to come loose, Rocking back and forth, it took several bites (repositions of the Vise-Grip) But it eventually came out. Once out a chased the casting hole with the appropriate M7 x 1.00 TAP to clean the threads.

An alternate method would be to MIG weld a nut to the bolt shank. The HEAT transfer will also shock and cook any corrosion that may be down in the thread zone.

If the above is not doable because the bolt shank snapped Flush to the case, then you will need to drill into the CENTER of the bolt and carefully step it out for the appropriate Screw EXTRACTOR. You MAY still need to use some heat to get the threads to release (unless you a very lucky with penetrating oil)

GOOD LUCK

[NightFlyer]

Took a tow-truck ride thanks to a ruptured fuel hard-line (tank/pump to accumulator, part #106983) during rush hour traffic in downtown Lansing.

[Kenny_Z]

If the above is not doable because the bolt shank snapped Flush to the case, then you will need to drill into the CENTER of the bolt and carefully step it out for the appropriate Screw EXTRACTOR. You MAY still need to use some heat to get the threads to release (unless you a very lucky with penetrating oil)

GOOD LUCK

Before I trying the screw extractor I'd try welding a washer to the bit of bolt and then a nut to that washer. Like this: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5644-Broken-bolts-guide-to-removal-using-a-welder You can still drill through if that doesn't work but if you break off a screw extractor you are beyond screwed. Pun intended.

[jawn101]

Took a tow-truck ride thanks to a ruptured fuel hard-line (tank/pump to accumulator, part #106983) during rush hour traffic in downtown Lansing.

Ouch! Sorry to hear it. The hard line itself gave out? Can't say I've ever heard of that happening. Good luck with the fix...

[NightFlyer]

Ouch! Sorry to hear it. The hard line itself gave out? Can't say I've ever heard of that happening. Good luck with the fix...

Split/ruptured mid-line, about where the fuel tank closing plate ends. Must have been a defective piece from the supplier or was damaged during install at Dunmurry. Already temporarily fixed with a slightly rerouted piece of new steel hardline. A proper repair and replacement of all fuel lines will occur over winter hibernation. I plan on doing all stainless hard-lines and teflon lined braided stainless soft lines.

[Jonathan]

Split/ruptured mid-line, about where the fuel tank closing plate ends. Must have been a defective piece from the supplier or was damaged during install at Dunmurry. Already temporarily fixed with a slightly rerouted piece of new steel hardline. A proper repair and replacement of all fuel lines will occur over winter hibernation. I plan on doing all stainless hard-lines and teflon lined braided stainless soft lines.

Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...

I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.

[Jack]

Rear Brake Calipers de-dusting with mean green and de-rusting with apple cider vinegar.

[NightFlyer]

Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...

I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.

Yes, in order to properly change the line that failed on me, a body/frame separation would be necessary.

I'm not sure if such is required with the steel hard line that runs from the accumulator to the fuel filter, or if it can be finagled into place without having to do this. With that said, it's much easier to simply run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line between the accumulator and the fuel filter, should the stock/OEM steel hard line ever get damaged or fail on you.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes, in order to properly change the line that failed on me, a body/frame separation would be necessary.

I'm not sure if such is required with the steel hard line that runs from the accumulator to the fuel filter, or if it can be finagled into place without having to do this. With that said, it's much easier to simply run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line between the accumulator and the fuel filter, should the stock/OEM steel hard line ever get damaged or fail on you.

That line can be snaked in from the front by slightly lifting the body, it doesn't have to be raised much.

The accumulator to the filter is the really nasty one.

[NightFlyer]

That line can be snaked in from the front by slightly lifting the body, it doesn't have to be raised much.

The accumulator to the filter is the really nasty one.

I was hoping that it wouldn't have to be raised very much - thanks for confirming this :thumbup:

As for the accumulator to the filter hard line, mine is still good, but I do plan on swapping out the original line with a stainless hard line over the winter. If it looks like it will be a major PITA, then I'll probably just do as I stated here and run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line instead, as I'm guessing most people do that aren't undergoing a complete frame-off restoration. The line from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor has to be longer than that line, and the stock/OEM application for that run is a soft line, so I really don't see such a swap as constituting any kind of safety issue.

[Josh]

Makes me glad I am replacing ALL my hard lines!

[Josh]

Here is what I did this weekend, met a new owner and showed off the chassis at a local car show. The deloreans were a huge hit!

21616

[NightFlyer]

Here is what I did this weekend, met a new owner and showed off the chassis at a local car show. The deloreans were a huge hit!

It's pretty cool that your chassis is receiving just as much attention as the completed car parked next to it :thumbup:

[Josh]

It's pretty cool that your chassis is receiving just as much attention as the completed car parked next to it :thumbup:

It definitely was an interesting dynamic. If the other delorean wasn't there I think there would be much less interest. But with them both there people were able to connect the dots and see the skeleton of the car!

[pezzonovante88]

I ordered some new front tires - Cooper CS4 Touring. Closest match to my Cooper Cobra rear tires. Hopefully they're not back-ordered.

[sdg3205]

Today I came across and interesting, yet unsurprising revelation of sorts.

I couldn't understand why I kept having low voltage and battery light flashing issues with my AC on.

I decided to clean everything in and around the alternator. The BIG piece of the mystery was the mounting plate on the engine. In the past I've cleaned what I could only see. This time I removed that plate/bracket and took a grinding wheel to it to take off all the rust that even 50 grit sand paper just couldn't tackle. I cleaned the three bolt locations, front and back, the mounting locations on the heads, the inner shaft for the actual alternator bolt, and both sides of the otter shaft where the alternator would sit.

I did the other usual suspects like the bolt, positive battery terminals and alternator bracket sides.

What a huge difference. It must have been the thick caked on rust of the engine bracket.

The gauge reads nicely now, and I swear it idles smoother.

[DavidProehl]

Replaced my CV boots. Should have been and easy job, but I messed up a couple of the clamps that came in the kit and couldn't find decent replacements locally. 2 weeks later (today) Jon (jawn101) hooked me up with some leftovers he had from doing the job and saved the day. I now have a driveable car again!

[jawn101]

Replaced my CV boots. Should have been and easy job, but I messed up a couple of the clamps that came in the kit and couldn't find decent replacements locally. 2 weeks later (today) Jon (jawn101) hooked me up with some leftovers he had from doing the job and saved the day. I now have a driveable car again!

Victory!!

[Jack]

2164621647

[DavidProehl]

2164621647

Been there. That is a load of fun. If your calipers have never been rebuilt you'll notice a huge improvement.

[Josh]

2164621647

Great work! While you are at it I would recommend replacing the caliper half bolts. For the rears they are (8 ) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 (both calipers). For the fronts the bolts are (4) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 and (4) 7/16-20 X 2-1/4 (both calipers)

[NightFlyer]

Been there. That is a load of fun. If your calipers have never been rebuilt you'll notice a huge improvement.

I too have done the deed. Rebuilt all of them, replaced all the soft lines, replaced the master cylinder, cleaned the reservoir, and installed with new pads. Did it all in about 20 hours of non-stop work. Totally worth it - brakes better than a new car :thumbup:

[Jonathan]

2164621647

Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?

[Josh]

Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?

There is a how to PDF in the forum. However I did not find it very good. FOr example it lists all metric wrenches/sockets to be used when 75% of the bolts are Imperial. LOL

I recently rebuilt my entire brake system (the only thing existing is the brake pedal), feel free to PM me Jonathan.

[Jack]

Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?

Yes they are rears.
I'm getting a rebuild kit from DAP.
I just soaked it all in a bucket of mean green.
Then brushed all the brake dust and grease away.
Followed by a 2 day soak in Apple Cider Vinegar to remove the rust.
Then rinsed in a bath of baking soda water to Neutralize the acid.
Will be buying caliper paint from store tomorrow, in a can if they have it.
Then baking the calipers in the oven to help the paint set.
I'm not one that paints them for looks, but as you can see after 31 years the calipers are back to bare metal.

[jackb]

I removed all four calipers to send to DPI for coating, and I will reassemble them myself with DPI pads.
Lost about 10lbs of sweat in the garage in the process.

[Jack]

The only time they well ever be this clean...
217052170621707

[Farrar]

Got around to the air conditioning again. Symptoms were of a clogged orifice tube.

Checked the VOV. Filter screen was dirty -- and damaged, either during installation or removal, I can't tell.

http://31.media.tumblr.com/662227f38366aae48cc76c4bd7113aec/tumblr_msf6nwuTlE1stq9e4o1_1280.jpg

Checked for other blockages by pushing air through the system without the VOV installed. Made a hose for the occasion.

http://24.media.tumblr.com/915e1b0d20b7bdd3ed2f8e640ecf75db/tumblr_msf6nbTfdq1stq9e4o1_1280.jpg

When the system was sealed back up, I heard a hissing sound from the Schrader (sp?) valve where the low pressure switch is. I adjusted it with this little tool from NAPA. It's a tiny little bugger and easy to lose track of!

http://31.media.tumblr.com/8b1876375940cebc9863394fd24516e2/tumblr_msf6ouXReL1stq9e4o1_1280.jpg

With a new filter screen in place, I pulled a vacuum on the system and stopped at -30. After a few hours, I'll check the gauges. This all seems very familiar...

[NightFlyer]

I recognize the design concept of that hose :thumbup2:

[vwdmc16]

Finished the oil change after getting enough 20w/50 VR1 oil. Collected an oil sample to send to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis. Maybe they can detect anything that may prove my failing head gasket theory.

Added a jumper to the lighting circuit to get my interior/door lights functional again, something isnt right with the wiring on my interior lights.

Then I drove it around tonight and discovered more horrible squeaks....

[Ryan S.]

Clint

Is your car over heating? Why do you think your head gasket is failing?

[vwdmc16]

Sadly yes it is now. But im not entirely sure that the head gaskets are bad. The car will handle the morning 20 mile drive to work fine in 60-70' temp( but sometimes still looses some coolant. coming home when its 90-100 and traffic is higher I have to keep the AC off for the last 10 miles, even then its nudging the 220 mark. Its like it really starts to heat soak and cant recover. I just replaced the radiator and all the straight hose couplers, Ive bled the living daylights out of it hot, cold and with a pressure pump. I have new bleed valves up front too. The coolant level is being lost rather quickly, this has been an issue over the last year. Any long drive (100+ mi) and my coolant tank would be near empty. no signs on coolant in the oil. My overflow bottle is always puking over if I go out for more than 10 minutes. I installed a pressure gauge to test the cooling pressure. unless its cool outside or I go for a real short trip, my coolant is always at 16psi+ which is opening the cap. I dont have any other explanations.

[Jonathan]

Sadly yes it is now. But im not entirely sure that the head gaskets are bad. The car will handle the morning 20 mile drive to work fine in 60-70' temp( but sometimes still looses some coolant. coming home when its 90-100 and traffic is higher I have to keep the AC off for the last 10 miles, even then its nudging the 220 mark. Its like it really starts to heat soak and cant recover. I just replaced the radiator and all the straight hose couplers, Ive bled the living daylights out of it hot, cold and with a pressure pump. I have new bleed valves up front too. The coolant level is being lost rather quickly, this has been an issue over the last year. Any long drive (100+ mi) and my coolant tank would be near empty. no signs on coolant in the oil. My overflow bottle is always puking over if I go out for more than 10 minutes. I installed a pressure gauge to test the cooling pressure. unless its cool outside or I go for a real short trip, my coolant is always at 16psi+ which is opening the cap. I dont have any other explanations.

Are your cooling fans running non stop while it is getting warmer and puking out the coolant? Maybe something is out of calibration with sensing the temperature, both analog and the otterstat switch? And the fans aren't coming on soon enough?

[vwdmc16]

The fans do come on about the same place on the gauge as they always have. Its weird that the car just cant handle the extra heat from the AC condenser anymore, like the whole system is just a bit less efficient than it was a year ago. I would like to set up a temporary secondary temp sensor and gauge that is more accurate to confirm the system is actually running this hot.

[Ryan S.]

I am going to send my oil for analysys, just in case. My coolant doesn't look quite right.
What do you think about engine block sealer? Do they work?

[Josh]

Put the body on the frame. This was quite an interesting experience! Lots of make-it-up-as-I-go-along haha

[Farrar]

Traced an a/c leak to the Schrader valve core on the accumulator behind the low pressure switch. Replaced it with a new valve core. Pulled vacuum on the system, waited 90 minutes. Gauges hadn't budged. Dumped a can of R-134a in the system before it was time to call it a night.

[Nick774]

What kind of springs and shocks do you have on there, and did you press new bearings into the rear carriers by chance? Im interested to hear your experience with this advice and do's and don'ts. Im almost done sandblasting, priming, and painting my suspension pieces.

[Josh]

What kind of springs and shocks do you have on there, and did you press new bearings into the rear carriers by chance? Im interested to hear your experience with this advice and do's and don'ts. Im almost done sandblasting, priming, and painting my suspension pieces.

I am using the stock springs all around. The rear shocks are the girlings (75$ for a nos pair) and the fronts are the monroes. I do not reccomend the monroes. There are better alternatives. Look up a 80 ford econoline for choices. But the spax shocks are very good if you have the money.

I had a heck of a time doing the rear carriers. But I took detailed pictures of the process. Ill give you my word a how to will be up before the end of the week. You need a press for this. I have a 20t press I got from the canadian version of HF. 200$ and worth every penny.

[vwdmc16]

I am going to send my oil for analysys, just in case. My coolant doesn't look quite right.
What do you think about engine block sealer? Do they work?


Cool, Id like to compare my oil with yours. I have no experience with block/gasket sealer products that you pour in to fix leaks. I'd only consider using such a thing in an emergency to get home.

[WelmoedJ]

Cool, Id like to compare my oil with yours. I have no experience with block/gasket sealer products that you pour in to fix leaks. I'd only consider using such a thing in an emergency to get home.

Consider additives to stop leaks in cooling and other systems as patchwork.
It can be helpful, but it also can do damage.

Only today a - not DeLorean - car owner complains that after using a leak stopper for his cooling system turned into a nightmare.
Clogged radiator, thermostat and perhaps channels in the engine block causing overheating.
What applies to the cooling system could also happen in the engine block's oil channels.

If that happens cleaning is almost impossible, leaving the owner with no other choice than replacement.
That then requires a deep and well filled purse!

IMO it's better to stay away from this additive type solution and go for the proper repair track.

[Farrar]

Today, I went out to put the second and third cans of refrigerant in the a/c system, only to find that O-rings shrink when cold. After I fixed the leak, I was down one can of R-134a, so I put the second can in and went to buy a third, plus a spare in case any more leaked out.

More had leaked out. Although I was able to tighten the fitting until I couldn't hear any more hissing, it was just the noise of the engine that masked the fact that the hissing had not abated but merely quieted.

But I didn't find that out until the engine died and refused to re-start.

End of line.

[vwdmc16]

Test fitted my BMW E36 window seal upgrade idea on the toll booth inner seal, Seems to work nicely and should stand up alot better than the OE style. I will begin field testing asap and if it works maybe a how-to.

[Patrick C]

Test fitted my BMW E36 window seal upgrade idea on the toll booth inner seal, Seems to work nicely and should stand up alot better than the OE style. I will begin field testing asap and if it works maybe a how-to.

I would be interested in seeing some pictures of this.

[pezzonovante88]

I just came back from a little blast around town. Ran great with lots of power.

[aipri]

Today, charged my R12, and did part 1 of the LED switchover: door lights, engine compartment light, hood light, and dome light. Also put the stainless shifter plate from dmoco.com around my auto shifter, not sure if I like it though.

[dustybarn]

Took a nice drive to fill up with non-ethanol gasoline. The sky was threatening to rain, but it never materialized. I pulled over in a scenic overlook for pictures:

2173821739

While I was there, a passerby yelled from his car, "Dope car, man!!!! F**k yeah!!! Whoooooo!!!!!"

[djdogbone]

Today's holiday upgrades included D110 Alternator I bought off the forum (was a chore as a couple of key parts were missing). It was a learning experience for me... i know to ask more questions when buying used.

I also installed the new stainless steel alternator tensioner I bought off of eBay. It tightens the belt very easily.

Question- to install John Hervey's gound cable, it looks like the airflow tin needs to be removed...correct?


-

[DeLorean03]

Question- to install John Hervey's gound cable, it looks like the airflow tin needs to be removed...correct?


-

I assume you're referring to his 2-gauge 2 piece ground cable kit?

21740

If so, there's multiple ways to do it. Ideally, you are to run one wire from the battery to the point where the trailing arm bolt mounts into the frame. Then the second cable goes from the same point to the transmission (And I believe the engine and transmission are mated together with lots of metal on metal contact, so the engine should be grounded too at this point - if I'm understanding it correctly.). So in essence, the ground goes transmission/engine --> frame --> car battery.

For me, since I have an auto transmission, that wasn't going to happen. I ended up running one cable from the car battery to the transmission, and then the other smaller cable went from the underside of the frame near the coolant bottle to the bracket where my exhaust mates to the engine. Same thing occurs like the first scenario, it's just that the cables are split apart instead of linked together, so for my case: frame --> ground cable #1 --> engine/transmission --> ground cable #2 --> battery.

There are other variations and ways to do it I am sure, but that was what worked best for me. Credit goes to Kenny_Z for my setup.

[pezzonovante88]

Took a nice drive to fill up with non-ethanol gasoline. The sky was threatening to rain, but it never materialized. I pulled over in a scenic overlook for pictures:

2173821739

While I was there, a passerby yelled from his car, "Dope car, man!!!! F**k yeah!!! Whoooooo!!!!!"

Nice pics!

[gongloo]

Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...

I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.

In case you hadn't already seen it, I posted a while back detailing my fix for precisely this problem. Hope that helps. Feel free to reach out for any details not covered in the post/video. Best of luck!


Managed to replace both hard lines with properly rated rubber fuel hose without lifting the body off of the frame. The trick: buying a cheap borescope (Harbor Freight). Might have been able to do without it, but I figure it's a neat tool to have.

Further details in the video description.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drfgb7tKOu4

[DMCMW Dave]

Traced an a/c leak to the Schrader valve core on the accumulator behind the low pressure switch. Replaced it with a new valve core. Pulled vacuum on the system, waited 90 minutes. Gauges hadn't budged. Dumped a can of R-134a in the system before it was time to call it a night.

Did you replace the switch? When that switch is in place the Schrader is actually open. It is only there so you can change the switch without dumping the system.

[DeLorean03]

Started installation of Toby's Remote Trunk Opening Kit. Mechanical portion is complete:

21766
21765

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Started installation of Toby's Remote Trunk Opening Kit. Mechanical portion is complete:

21766
21765

That's cool. Didn't even know this was available. What would be the need for this out of curiosity?

[NightFlyer]

That's cool. Didn't even know this was available. What would be the need for this out of curiosity?

The mod allows one to open the hood to access the storage compartment without having to opening the driver's door and manually pull the release lever. Why you would want this is akin to the way that most modern cars offer the option (if not a standard feature) to remotely pop the trunk - convenience.

[jawn101]

Drove to work. I thought I knew pain before today - but the charley horse from driving a manual D in traffic wearing brand new Red Wings.... OW!:banghead:

Anyone else (besides Clint, I've seen your fanciness...) have driving shoes for the D? My feet are pretty big and those pedals are pretty tight. I might look into some Pilotis...

[eagle-co94]

Drove to work. I thought I knew pain before today - but the charley horse from driving a manual D in traffic wearing brand new Red Wings.... OW!:banghead:

Anyone else (besides Clint, I've seen your fanciness...) have driving shoes for the D? My feet are pretty big and those pedals are pretty tight. I might look into some Pilotis...

I've got a couple pair of real slim fitting Pumas that're perfect for that.

[NightFlyer]

Drove to work. I thought I knew pain before today - but the charley horse from driving a manual D in traffic wearing brand new Red Wings.... OW!:banghead:

Anyone else (besides Clint, I've seen your fanciness...) have driving shoes for the D? My feet are pretty big and those pedals are pretty tight. I might look into some Pilotis...

I like my Made in USA New Balance 587. Most comfortable pair of shoes I've ever owned!

http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/NB/m587nv_nb_02_i?$dw_detail_main$

http://www.newbalance.com/New-Balance-587/M587,default,pd.html?dwvar_M587_color=Navy_with_Gr ey&start=12&cgid=40015&prefn1=genderAndAgeGroupCombo&prefv1=Men

[Lenny]

I've got a couple pair of real slim fitting Pumas that're perfect for that.

I was thinking about taking the Skip Barber Mazdaspeed MX5 3 Day Racing School at Sebring. http://www.skipbarber.com/Sebring.asp A friend of mine took the class and said it was one of the best things he has done. If he can get the time off he wants to do it again.

I called and asked a bunch of questions and they suggested Puma "Driving" Shoes. I didn't know they made "Driving" shoes.http://www.zappos.com/puma-driver#!/puma-driver-shoes/CK_XAeICAQE.zso?t=puma+driver

[DeLorean03]

That's cool. Didn't even know this was available. What would be the need for this out of curiosity?

Pretty much everything Nightflyer said. An ex bought this for me back in 2007, but it needs a microcontroller to work (something like WingsALoft basically). So now that I have W.A.L., figured I'd finally install it.

The amount of times I find myself "needing one more thing" from the trunk drives me nuts. I know it's a first-world problem to open the door and pull the handle, but hey, it's my first world problem ;).

Definitely the convenience factor - both out on the town and when working on the car/loading stuff up for a trip/tech session.

[eagle-co94]

I bought my current daily shoes, Puma Pace Cat II, in Germany while grocery shopping at Toom Markt of all places. I think they were only 35 Euro or so and when I saw the tread I had to have them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PUMA-MENS-PACE-CAT-II-LEATHER-TRAINERS-BOOTS-SHOES-BLACK-MOTORSPORT-UK-SIZE-/230844918066

I've also got a pair of Puma Kimi Raikonnen signature shoes that are NLA that I'm keeping in the box until my D is on the road.

I like how they have the "Not flameproof equipped" patch sewn into the tongue.

...although now I've got my pair of faux Nike Air Mags...

[SS Spoiler]

I find a nice pair of Minnetonka Moccasins give plenty of room around the pedals.

[jawn101]

I was thinking about taking the Skip Barber Mazdaspeed MX5 3 Day Racing School at Sebring. http://www.skipbarber.com/Sebring.asp A friend of mine took the class and said it was one of the best things he has done. If he can get the time off he wants to do it again.

I called and asked a bunch of questions and they suggested Puma "Driving" Shoes. I didn't know they made "Driving" shoes.http://www.zappos.com/puma-driver#!/puma-driver-shoes/CK_XAeICAQE.zso?t=puma+driver

Wow, those are awesome! Better price and way better selection than the Pilotis. Thanks Lenny, I'm gonna try them out!

Edit: Can't beat the price or reviews... got a pair of these:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21804&d=1378430895

[Farrar]

Did you replace the switch?

Did it come with the evaporator kit you sold me? I think that's the one I installed. It did not, however, come with an O-ring, so I found one and installed it.

[krs09]

I havent had a chance to keep up with this thread but I can do a quick first year report . In my first full year of ownership with my D I’ve
- Rebuilt the orignal motor from the ground up with all new gaskets and seals, reconditioned the cylinder heads and scrubbed every piece to a silvery shine, replaced all the sensors in the VOD aswell as the o2 and thermotime, tune up (plugs,wires,dist cap), replaced all injectors, SS braided fuel lines, new silicone vac hoses, new water pump and replaced the clutch

- Reconditioned the radiaitor, replaced all coolant hoses, 2 new metal pipes and otterstat switich, new toby cooling fans,
- All new fuses and relays and getting ready to replace the fuse block
- New fuel sender and pump
- Removed all carpeting and scrubbed like no other, replace old nasty jute, installed new speakers and cd player, ran new speaker wiring and cleaned grounds, headlight update (tobys), Led’s in dash and doors (working on tail lights) and a new steeing column bushing

- Bolted down, repainted and resealed roof box.
- Blended most of the stainless panels (came out real nice)

And Im sure I missed a few little things but my baby has kept me busy… Still waiting for the fist real day to DRIVE her! – Thanks for all the help and tips, could not have done it without you. (bitsync,kings,jawn and espcially Dave @MW.:cheers1:

[jawn101]

I havent had a chance to keep up with this thread but I can do a quick first year report . In my first full year of ownership with my D I’ve
-Rebuilt the orignal motor from the ground up with all new gaskets and seals, reconditioned the cylinder heads and scrubbed every piece to a silvery shine, replaced all the sensors in the VOD aswell as the o2 and thermotime, tune up (plugs,wires,dist cap), replaced all injectors, SS braided fuel lines, new silicone vac hoses, new water pump and replaced the clutch

-Reconditioned the radiaitor, replaced all coolant hoses, 2 new metal pipes and otterstat switich, new toby cooling fans,
-All new fuses and relays and getting ready to replace the fuse block
-New fuel sender and pump
-Removed all carpeting and scrubbed like no other, replace old nasty jute, installed new speakers and cd player, ran new speaker wiring and cleaned grounds, headlight update (tobys), Led’s in dash and doors (working on tail lights) and a new steeing column bushing

-Bolted down, repainted and resealed roof box.
-Blended most of the stainless panels (came out real nice)

And Im sure I missed a few little things but my baby has kept me busy… Still waiting for the fist real day to DRIVE her! – Thanks for all the help and tips, could not have done it without you. (bitsync,kings,jawn and espcially Dave @MW.:cheers1:

Cheers buddy! It's a great feeling. Hopefully you'll get that drive soon.

[Tillsy]

Been another couple of months since I've posted in this thread, as all my time has still been sucked by a project on my DeLorean I'll detail at a later time, but a few random odds and ends I've got done on the side...

I have overhauled the way my park lights and headlights work:
1. Replaced my (working) headlight switch with a hazard switch
2. Rewired accordingly (the normally open contacts are slightly different between the hazard and headlight switches)
3. Rewired feed for headlights to accessory circuit
4. Offloaded park/perimeter lights to a relay
5. Wired park relay to trigger off the ignition
6. Changed the clock to dim with the headlights and not park lights

Thus my park lights now turn on automatically when my car is running and turn off when not (I like to have them on for safety reasons but often walk back to my D and realise I accidentally left them on), my headlights automatically turn off if left on when key removed, and since my park lights are automatic now the changes to my headlight switch means it only needs a single click to turn on and off (hence using a hazard switch).

Also wired my flux storage door to trigger with the doors - only ever needed to be on when the doors were open anyway so no longer needs turning on manually or powering via battery.

Whilst doing some major rewiring for my other project I discovered a power feed installed by a PO that was coming from a disturbing direction - the steering column. I traced it back to the auxiliary feed on the ignition - what the hell, that's meant to trigger the auxiliary relay which is intended to carry the load. Luckily the wiring coming from the ignition itself is quite thick so was fine, but the thinner wire between the socket and the splice had not been handling the the load. All fixed now but this could have slowly got much worse!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21876&d=1378815439

[Rich W]

I have overhauled the way my park lights and headlights work:
1. Replaced my (working) headlight switch with a hazard switch
2. Rewired accordingly (the normally open contacts are slightly different between the hazard and headlight switches)
3. Rewired feed for headlights to accessory circuit
4. Offloaded park/perimeter lights to a relay
5. Wired park relay to trigger off the ignition
6. Changed the clock to dim with the headlights and not park lights

Thus my park lights now turn on automatically when my car is running and turn off when not (I like to have them on for safety reasons but often walk back to my D and realise I accidentally left them on), my headlights automatically turn off if left on when key removed, and since my park lights are automatic now the changes to my headlight switch means it only needs a single click to turn on and off (hence using a hazard switch).



Hey Chris,

Sounds like you put together a mod (actually a series of mods) that I had discussed with Toby (DMC-NW) many years ago, for Pacific Northwest
DeLorean owners who were looking for a practical DRL option for the DeLorean. Back then, there were not too many options for brighter amber
lights for up-front, but now there are plenty of LED options that would make your mods even more useful for DRL (Daytime Running Lights) duty.

Everything from the re-wiring to the re-purposing of the Hazard Switch for single push use (for headlights only) makes the mods even easier to
understand (and duplicate?), but we will have to wait and see if the DeLorean owner "masses" like the idea or not. I like the idea. Great job.

Thanks,
Rich W.

[Patrick C]

Everything from the re-wiring to the re-purposing of the Hazard Switch for single push use (for headlights only) makes the mods even easier to
understand (and duplicate?), but we will have to wait and see if the DeLorean owner "masses" like the idea or not. I like the idea. Great job.

Thanks,
Rich W.

I really like the idea. I'd love someone to make a "How To" guide on this subject.

[Silkie]

Repaired my Tail Light Circuit Boards.
Work good as new, Beats the Heck outta buying new ones!

[Tillsy]

Hey Chris,

Sounds like you put together a mod (actually a series of mods) that I had discussed with Toby (DMC-NW) many years ago, for Pacific Northwest
DeLorean owners who were looking for a practical DRL option for the DeLorean. Back then, there were not too many options for brighter amber
lights for up-front, but now there are plenty of LED options that would make your mods even more useful for DRL (Daytime Running Lights) duty.

Everything from the re-wiring to the re-purposing of the Hazard Switch for single push use (for headlights only) makes the mods even easier to
understand (and duplicate?), but we will have to wait and see if the DeLorean owner "masses" like the idea or not. I like the idea. Great job.

Thanks,
Rich W.
Thanks Rich - yes my front park lights are insanely bright plus the SMDs shining through the lens glitter in a crystal kind of way, so they look and work fantastic as DRL.

Working on a mod for my side perimeter lights to make them as effective but waiting on a few more parts to arrive to finish that.

[DeLorean03]

This:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j9GSfKrT7w&feature=youtu.be

[Tillsy]

This

That reminds me, I finally got around to installing my remote trunk release a couple months ago too.

Plus I replaced three toolkits I used to carry in my DeLorean with this :)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21877

[pezzonovante88]

On Monday I drove out to DPI to have some work done as per Josh's inspection of 5875 at the ODOC Tech-day a few months ago.
The following work was completed:

-Replaced rear main seal
-Replaced hydraulic clutch lines and installed the stainless clutch line kit
-New Valeo clutch
-Flywheel assembly cleaned/refurbished
-Replaced brake master cylinder & flushed system
-Replaced rear axle shafts with fully refurbished and powder coated ones & new hardware
-New trunk panel inserts & hardware/rivnuts
-Replaced clutch master cylinder & res flexible line
-New cat converter flange gasket (exhaust system had to be removed)
-Oil & filter change (20w50)
-Degreased and cleaned frame due to rear main seal leak
-Cleaned underneath footwell carpet from leaking brake fluid
-Replaced trailing arm shield kit & hardware
-Replaced battery terminal & bolt hardware

(Also had new Cooper CS4 Touring front tires installed last week which ran nicely on the drive to Ohio.)

The main initial reason I chose DPI was because it is the closest DeLorean specialist to where I live and because he spent the time to drive out to Toronto to inspect my car at tech day. I gave Josh a budget and we came very close (a few unexpected items that I wasn't planning on, but needed doing). I drove out (with my father in a follower car) from Toronto on Monday morning and left the car with Josh in Akron, OH at 1pm. We then drove to Cleveland to our hotel and then visited the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, which I would HIGHLY recommend to anyone who is interested in rock & roll. The next day, we went to pick the car up from being worked on late into the evening. Everything was great and I was happy. Josh really takes his business very seriously.
We then left on our 4.5 hour journey and once we reached the Interstate, we hit some very heavy stop-and-go traffic in 90+ degree heat. I then took a look at my temp. gauge and it was almost in the red! So, we pulled off and the coolant overflow tank was dumping out coolant. "Oh shit!" we thought, "this is just what we need". (Ironically, a few weeks ago I removed an emergency coolant jug from my trunk because it kept leaking). I'm not very mechanical (yes I own a DeLorean!), so I was really bummed-out. I reluctantly called Josh and asked him what he thought the issue could be and if I could fix it without getting a tow truck involved. I really didn't know. Anyway, Josh actually offered to drop what he was doing during his busy day to drive the ~45min out to meet us and help to resolve the issue. This was a HUGE relief to my father and I and it was extremely well appreciated. He came out and said the connectors for the fans were corroded, cleaned them, and got the fans running again - easy peasy. He also gave me a new jug of coolant and a new jug of distilled water just in case. He then led us all the way to another route without traffic before heading back to his shop. I cannot emphasize enough how impressed my father and I are with Josh and DPI. What he did for us - free of charge, by the way - was way above and beyond what he needed to do and it really saved our asses. He now has a service customer for life (or as long as I have a DeLorean!).
Thank you very much, Josh, for your working extra long hours to get us on the road in under 24 hours and for coming to our rescue way out on the shoulder of the freeway.
The DeLorean community is very lucky to have such great support from our vendors. I would urge anyone to bring their car to DPI - you will not be disappointed and you will only get the best parts and service.

[jawn101]

Installed new door struts from DMCMW. I knew they were sagging again but I didn't realize how much I missed that graceful arc until now. No more whacking my head at gas stations!

[vwdmc16]

Wow.

DPI Josh is the MAN! Great story!

[Josh]

Wow.

DPI Josh is the MAN! Great story!

I second that. That is some great customer service.

[DavidProehl]

Never heard a service story like that. Very impressive!

[DMC81]

On Monday I drove out to DPI to have some work done as per Josh's inspection of 5875 at the ODOC Tech-day a few months ago.
The following work was completed:

-Replaced rear main seal
-Replaced hydraulic clutch lines and installed the stainless clutch line kit
-New Valeo clutch
-Flywheel assembly cleaned/refurbished
-Replaced brake master cylinder & flushed system
-Replaced rear axle shafts with fully refurbished and powder coated ones & new hardware
-New trunk panel inserts & hardware/rivnuts
-Replaced clutch master cylinder & res flexible line
-New cat converter flange gasket (exhaust system had to be removed)
-Oil & filter change (20w50)
-Degreased and cleaned frame due to rear main seal leak
-Cleaned underneath footwell carpet from leaking brake fluid
-Replaced trailing arm shield kit & hardware
-Replaced battery terminal & bolt hardware

(Also had new Cooper CS4 Touring front tires installed last week which ran nicely on the drive to Ohio.)

The main initial reason I chose DPI was because it is the closest DeLorean specialist to where I live and because he spent the time to drive out to Toronto to inspect my car at tech day. I gave Josh a budget and we came very close (a few unexpected items that I wasn't planning on, but needed doing). I drove out (with my father in a follower car) from Toronto on Monday morning and left the car with Josh in Akron, OH at 1pm. We then drove to Cleveland to our hotel and then visited the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, which I would HIGHLY recommend to anyone who is interested in rock & roll. The next day, we went to pick the car up from being worked on late into the evening. Everything was great and I was happy. Josh really takes his business very seriously.
We then left on our 4.5 hour journey and once we reached the Interstate, we hit some very heavy stop-and-go traffic in 90+ degree heat. I then took a look at my temp. gauge and it was almost in the red! So, we pulled off and the coolant overflow tank was dumping out coolant. "Oh shit!" we thought, "this is just what we need". (Ironically, a few weeks ago I removed an emergency coolant jug from my trunk because it kept leaking). I'm not very mechanical (yes I own a DeLorean!), so I was really bummed-out. I reluctantly called Josh and asked him what he thought the issue could be and if I could fix it without getting a tow truck involved. I really didn't know. Anyway, Josh actually offered to drop what he was doing during his busy day to drive the ~45min out to meet us and help to resolve the issue. This was a HUGE relief to my father and I and it was extremely well appreciated. He came out and said the connectors for the fans were corroded, cleaned them, and got the fans running again - easy peasy. He also gave me a new jug of coolant and a new jug of distilled water just in case. He then led us all the way to another route without traffic before heading back to his shop. I cannot emphasize enough how impressed my father and I are with Josh and DPI. What he did for us - free of charge, by the way - was way above and beyond what he needed to do and it really saved our asses. He now has a service customer for life (or as long as I have a DeLorean!).
Thank you very much, Josh, for your working extra long hours to get us on the road in under 24 hours and for coming to our rescue way out on the shoulder of the freeway.
The DeLorean community is very lucky to have such great support from our vendors. I would urge anyone to bring their car to DPI - you will not be disappointed and you will only get the best parts and service.


Glad you made it there safe, very cool of Josh!

[DeLorean03]

This:

The new and re-designed louvre center brace. Note: I did NOT need longer louvre struts for this to work.

21947
21948

And the SS grilles:

21949
21950
21951
21952
21946

[jackb]

This:

The new and re-designed louvre center brace. Note: I did NOT need longer louvre struts for this to work.

21947
21948

And the SS grilles:

21949
21950
21951
21952
21946
That looks good... I use a piece of a wire coat hanger bent to hook the two together taking the weight off the engine cover...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/DSCN2636.png

[DeLorean03]

That looks good... I use a piece of a wire coat hanger bent to hook the two together taking the weight off the engine cover...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/DSCN2636.png

Any port in a storm!

[Domi]

This:
And the SS grilles:
21946

Where did you buy the SS grilles?
Is it still available without the DMC logo?

[DeLorean03]

Where did you buy the SS grilles?
Is it still available without the DMC logo?

Right here:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=432

Ask Bandit if that's an option or not; he is the one that makes them.

[Domi]

All right, many thanks ;)

[Chris 16409]

Installed new door struts from DMCMW. I knew they were sagging again but I didn't realize how much I missed that graceful arc until now. No more whacking my head at gas stations!

How are the stuts that DMCMW sells? I haven't yet decided where to get some new ones.

[jawn101]

How are the stuts that DMCMW sells? I haven't yet decided where to get some new ones.

Well, they're the same as the ones Houston sells since MW is out of the Stabilus ones. So, that is to say they work but probably not for long.

But I wasn't gonna buy em from Hervey, so this was the remaining option. They're perfectly strong with no bounce. For now.

[hillbillydmc]

I painted the factory wheels and installed them back on my Delorean, with new center caps and black lugs. 2199922000I got tired of the aftermarket wheels I had on the car. I added more pics to my delorean album:biggrin:

[DeLorean03]

I painted the factory wheels and installed them back on my Delorean, with new center caps and black lugs. 2199922000I got tired of the aftermarket wheels I had on the car. I added more pics to my delorean album:biggrin:


I hate how clean your car always is D: ....

You were right, that looks pretty good, bud! Have you seen in another thread where they were making the turbines black on the inside but grey on the edges? Michael Babbs did an excellent mock-up, and I got to admit, I'm starting to like this look alot!

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8172-Black-Chrome-amp-Machined-wheels&p=120306&viewfull=1#post120306

[DeLorean03]

The new and re-designed louvre center brace. Note: I did NOT need longer louvre struts for this to work.

I was wrong about this. I found that I have to lift my louvres up enough that I start hearing "cracks and pops" where the strut mounts to the louvres. I don't like that at all. Going to have to start looking for longer struts. Anyone got any ideas/leads ?

[DeLorean03]

Well, I found the correct longer struts for the louvre center brace. On my car, using DMCH's struts from 2003, I had to pull the louvres higher up to get the engine cover hook to go into the "C" in the louvre brace. I didn't mind that until I heard small cracks and pops emanating from the ball joint on the driver's rear panel - not good. So I needed a longer brace:

22123

22124

The struts are from Autozone. They're called "Mighty Lift" struts. The number you'll want is D95112. I know in my picture there are different numbers; the D95112 number is what they looked up in their computer so use that if you want the same struts I'm using.

Don't fret that they have male electrical spades on them. They were still only $17 a piece. Oh, these were in "the back" - NOT ON THE STORE FLOOR.

Special note to Toby at DMCNW; I hope I didn't "cut you off at the pass." I know you got a lot going on at DMCNW; I just wanted you to not have to worry about something as silly as finding these struts for me!

[beernpizzalover]

I transferred my 'NO TIME' license plates to my DeLorean. Gotta keep-up that famous BTTF theme!

[Jonathan]

22123

The reflection makes it almost look like you have an "explodaview hieroglyphic" etched on your drivers side rear quarter fiberglass area, behind the glass. Neat!

[DeLorean03]

The reflection makes it almost look like you have an "explodaview hieroglyphic" etched on your drivers side rear quarter fiberglass area, behind the glass. Neat!

That would be wild if it really was like that. I'd never bring any signs/displays to a show again :D!

[vwdmc16]

I did a few things to 2128:

Removed Torsion bars, Bolted down the massively lifting roof box, Re installed torsion bars one spline less as the owner really cranked them up, realigned T panel. Replaced the melted fuse box, discovered some headlight faults, Changed the PPR o ring, Deleted the hot air flap, installed cold air intake.

Still more to do before its ready for sale.

[jawn101]

I did a few things to 2128:

Removed Torsion bars, Bolted down the massively lifting roof box, Re installed torsion bars one spline less as the owner really cranked them up, realigned T panel. Replaced the melted fuse box, discovered some headlight faults, Changed the PPR o ring, Deleted the hot air flap, installed cold air intake.

Still more to do before its ready for sale.

Damn, dude! You're really killing that project. You did the fuse box yourself this time? How'd it go?

[DavidProehl]

I did a few things to 2128:

Removed Torsion bars, Bolted down the massively lifting roof box, Re installed torsion bars one spline less as the owner really cranked them up, realigned T panel. Replaced the melted fuse box, discovered some headlight faults, Changed the PPR o ring, Deleted the hot air flap, installed cold air intake.

Still more to do before its ready for sale.

Solo torsion bar removal. You are a machine!

[Jonathan]

Solo torsion bar removal. You are a machine!

Machine??????!!!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BS04AQFDqiE

Fear the beard!! lol

[ALEXAKOS]

"we don't talk much... I just give him the sugar":eek7:

[vwdmc16]

Jon yes i did the fuse board myself, it a actually wasnt that bad, only fuse 7 was melted, all the other terminals were nice and swapped over easy.

I didn't do the torsion bars all by myself, Ned, the owner helped but he claims that he adjusted them all by himself last time, using straps and weights to hold the breaker bar while he wenched. Eeee,no thanks. The bars came out much easier than any of our cars did. Was able to bolt the roof back down about 5/8" woo hoo

[Shuttleman]

Trying to find time to work on the Delorean, even when doing landscaping.
2217322174

[Josh]

Trying to find time to work on the Delorean, even when doing landscaping.
2217322174

Putting the machinery to good use!

[Dangermouse]

Trying to find time to work on the Delorean, even when doing landscaping.
2217322174

Engine swap?

[Farrar]

I made sure it was still in the garage... just confirming its existence.

[Shuttleman]

Engine swap?

Yes

[andy blackmon]

I removed my rear louvre and due to the age of this , it was faded so bad that the only course to make it look good was to repaint it. I wanted a little more shine than the flat black so I opted for stain black. This added a little gloss but not overboard. The removal and repainting was a snap --reinstalling was another issue. Thanks to an old post by David Teitelbaum telling how to reinstall the job was finished---as I said the reinstallation is a little tricky. I also cleaned up the engine cover and the motor area, all in all the job came out well.

[pezzonovante88]

I removed my rear louvre and due to the age of this , it was faded so bad that the only course to make it look good was to repaint it. I wanted a little more shine than the flat black so I opted for stain black. This added a little gloss but not overboard. The removal and repainting was a snap --reinstalling was another issue. Thanks to an old post by David Teitelbaum telling how to reinstall the job was finished---as I said the reinstallation is a little tricky. I also cleaned up the engine cover and the motor area, all in all the job came out well.

Do you mean satin black? The reason I ask is because I'm thinking of re-doing mine in the proper matte black and I just want to make sure I know what I'm talking about.

[andy blackmon]

Yes I did mean satin black, it gave the louvre a bit of a wet look. I thought about gloss paint but I was afraid that would be too much shine.

[pezzonovante88]

Yes I did mean satin black, it gave the louvre a bit of a wet look. I thought about gloss paint but I was afraid that would be too much shine.

When my PO bought the car from the PPO, the louver was full gloss - it looks okay, but it's a bit much in my opinion. I like the original look and would like to go back to that, so I guess it would just be a matte black trim paint.

[Jonathan]

I can't find it being discussed anywhere on here, which I figured it has got to be somewhere, so move this as necessary...

Did anyone watch the premiere of the Michael J Fox show last night?

What did you think?

Not wanting to say anything blasphemous or anything on this sort of forum, being MJF is somewhat beloved, but to sum up my opinion, I switched the football game back on after about 6 minutes, maybe 7 tops.

[pezzonovante88]

I can't find it being discussed anywhere on here, which I figured it has got to be somewhere, so move this as necessary...

Did anyone watch the premiere of the Michael J Fox show last night?

What did you think?

Not wanting to say anything blasphemous or anything on this sort of forum, being MJF is somewhat beloved, but to sum up my opinion, I switched the football game back on after about 6 minutes, maybe 7 tops.

I'm watching it right now. I mean, it's a regular network sitcom - it ain't HBO. But, I hope it's successful because, like many people, I have a soft spot for MJF.

[nwotank]

I was wanting to install a double din but didn't want to go through the trouble of reconfiguring the ac system so I found a 5" screen that hangs down a bit. Works well, and doesn't cover my ac vents.

http://gvmpl.us/zitv

http://gvmpl.us/pvba

In case anyone is curious I bought it at mp3playstore.com for about $200.

[refugeefromcalif]

I did the 4th oil change on my D today.

I had my Adult beverage of choice sitting in the engine bay. (In my Favourite Coozy)...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22232&d=1380406833

I've always used a paint marker on my oil filters to record the mileage and date of my oil changes.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22233&d=1380407067

(Well, I don't have access to those Neat little stickers that Normal places put on the inside of your windshield)...

George

Yes this is Boring but, I Procrastinated all my other car plans. (I didn't have any band-aids)...

[jawn101]

Not a huge milestone, but a nice round number. I'm losing to Clint pretty badly now though...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22293&d=1380853311

[DrJeff]

Tried setting the RH torsion tonight. Started at 3 splines and progressed to 4, then 5, then 4 with a little extra twist in the bracket. Five splines got me a bounce. In the end four splines plus a twist got close but didn't get to 100% of its rise, rather it got to perhaps 5 inches of the max height. The door has new Hervey's soft lift struts. I can push the door to it's full lift and it will stay in place. So a bit of a dilemma, risk bounce and more roof separation or not have the door open fully?

What is really nice is that I can now close the door with two fingers, whereas before it took two hands and some elbow grease.

[jawn101]

What is really nice is that I can now close the door with two fingers, whereas before it took two hands and some elbow grease.

Oh, this is an interesting remark. I adjusted my torsion bars a few years ago with brand new struts. They travel all the way to the top and don't bounce at all, but are difficult to shut. It got easier and easier to close them until I realized the struts were shot. So I just installed new ones a couple weeks ago, and now the doors are hard to close again. I wonder if it's a function of the torsion bars more than the struts, but the opening action is juuust right.

[nwotank]

Installed New wheels and light cover


http://gvmpl.us/ynq4


http://gvmpl.us/x7yg

http://gvmpl.us/9dqw

[Rich]

Tried setting the RH torsion tonight. Started at 3 splines and progressed to 4, then 5, then 4 with a little extra twist in the bracket. Five splines got me a bounce. In the end four splines plus a twist got close but didn't get to 100% of its rise, rather it got to perhaps 5 inches of the max height. The door has new Hervey's soft lift struts. I can push the door to it's full lift and it will stay in place. So a bit of a dilemma, risk bounce and more roof separation or not have the door open fully?

What is really nice is that I can now close the door with two fingers, whereas before it took two hands and some elbow grease.

Nice work. Sounds like another successful door de-torquing exercise. A properly-adjusted door goes down easy, just like you say, yet lifts fully.

Since different struts can have different lift capacities you might try a different pair of new struts and see if you get a bit more lift at this torsion setting yet not bounce.

One other idea is to work some lithium grease (via spray nozzle) into the door hinges. This might reduce the hinge friction to the point where the door lifts a bit further.

[BABIS]

Installed New wheels and light cover


http://gvmpl.us/9dqw

very nice! is this light cover custom made?

[Hokie]

Showing it at Cars & Coffee, Charlotte. It's amazing how familiar people act around the car. Most cars here are admired at a distance with respect, but for some reason people feel like getting all over a DeLorean...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[nwotank]

very nice! is this light cover custom made?

Thanks, yes its custom made, its just a piece of plexi cut out to the shape of the lights held on by velcro, although that might change unless i find better glue

[Lenny]

showing it at cars & coffee, charlotte. It's amazing how familiar people act around the car. Most cars here are admired at a distance with respect, but for some reason people feel like getting all over a delorean...
[/url]

and touching it!!!!

[jawn101]

Took a long drive (about 120 miles). Flawless in every way, which was great since it's the first time in months I've gotten the wife to come along. Took the scenic route at every available opportunity.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22354&d=1381075775

[Domi]

I like your license plate :biggrin:

[rdarlington]

So I bought my D about 5 weeks ago. It runs just fine when warm, but has felt like it wanted to stall when giving it gas when cold.

Last night I got my Hervey silicone vacuum line kit in and proceeded to replace some of the hoses -all but the 3 running under the manifold. I opened the side compartment with the charcoal canister and saw the plugged connection had deteriorated rubber. Thought it was a major vacuum leak and causing issues. No such luck. I fixed that issue though with one of the old hoses and a plug/clamp. It's sealed off.

Today I get my CIS K-Jet pressure test kit in from Amazon. I'm searching all over on how to hook it up to test the CPR/WUR. My CPR looks new compared to the rest of the engine. A little clean, so I figured the previous owner may have had issues, even though I'm just sitting at 3400 miles on the odometer.

The diagram in the shop manual shows a fuel distributor that doesn't quite look like mine. It looks like one for a 4 cyl engine, but I get the idea. I read around and it's clear that the gage hooks between the 14mm connection on the CPR and the distributor. It's not where the diagram shows but I hook it up just the same.

What I'm seeing on the gage is odd. Basically full system pressure, around 72.5 PSI, nothing going up, and no real drop when turning the throttle. Car still feels like it wants to stall.

Hrmmmm. I find a diagram on the net of the distributor connections. My cold start valve was attached to the port where the CPR connects, and vice versa.

I swapped the connections and now my problem is gone. A new one came up. I dropped the copper washer down in the engine compartment somewhere. Time to order a bunch. I won't use them more than twice. It pains me to use them more than once really, as I'm used to a similar sealing system in the ultra high vacuum technology world (Conflat connections).

I will be making a video showing the correct connections with the gage and how to test for system pressure without monkeying around with relays.

Moral of the story? Check your vacuum connections, but also verify your fuel line connections. What a pain!

-Bob

[DeLorean03]

I'm searching all over on how to hook it up to test the CPR/WUR.....

I will be making a video showing the correct connections with the gauge...



Here you go. I put this up back in June.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7drhxjJ2mg

[Farrar]

This was a few days ago but I forgot to post it here. So this qualifies as "What did your DeLorean do to you this past weekend?"

I tried to install the new pickup coil inside the ignition distributor. One of the three screws inside the distributor got its head stripped, so I have to drill it out. I removed the distributor from the engine. I'm hoping I can re-stab it properly -- I took pictures every step of the way, so I'm hoping that will be a good reference for when I get back to it.

[dustybarn]

Changed out the noisy HVAC blower motor; found a Four Seasons Fiero/Monza unit on EBay. Once again had to vacuum mouse nesting materials out of the heater. I have GOT to find a way to keep those little jerks out of my car.

Farrar: The line that is scribed on the top surface of the distributor makes reinstalling it easy. The rotor should point to it when the distributor is properly installed, with the fixing stud near the center of the slot. There are few enough teeth on the drive gear that it's obvious if you're off by one.

[papanoel]

Tested the GoPro quickly on the delorean. driving through nyc. a short burst of acceleration at the end.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DMFoqEBxwU&feature=youtu.be

[Farrar]

The line that is scribed on the top surface of the distributor makes reinstalling it easy. The rotor should point to it when the distributor is properly installed, with the fixing stud near the center of the slot. There are few enough teeth on the drive gear that it's obvious if you're off by one.

Thanks! :)

[krs09]

Changed out the noisy HVAC blower motor; found a Four Seasons Fiero/Monza unit on EBay. Once again had to vacuum mouse nesting materials out of the heater. I have GOT to find a way to keep those little jerks out of my car.

Farrar: The line that is scribed on the top surface of the distributor makes reinstalling it easy. The rotor should point to it when the distributor is properly installed, with the fixing stud near the center of the slot. There are few enough teeth on the drive gear that it's obvious if you're off by one.

One thing that helps is to fill some socks with moth balls and hang them from each corner under the car.. Works for alot of corvette customers that come in.

[krs09]

Finally got the steering back together. What a PITA to get that steering shaft back into the U-joint. Now my steering wheel is off center (UGH). Im hoping to try to correct it by adjusting the lower U-joint, the upper is just too rough. I guess I can do that right? Im sure it wont make a difference, I hope.

[Rich]

Renewed the Lambda/O2/Oxygen sensor in the exhaust, due for renewal every 30K miles. We clicked past 60K mi not long ago which toggled the Lambda light on the cluster as expected.

Simple wrench job for my local shop. I've had problems freeing oxygen sensors out of other cars so I outsourced that chore.

I reset the Lambda counter again on my own, ready for 90K now.

Bonus: The slight idle hunting condition we've had for some time is completely GONE now.

[DMCMW Dave]

Farrar: The line that is scribed on the top surface of the distributor makes reinstalling it easy. The rotor should point to it when the distributor is properly installed, with the fixing stud near the center of the slot. There are few enough teeth on the drive gear that it's obvious if you're off by one.

Just make sure the engine is really on the TDC timing mark. . . .and not the opposite revolution.

[DMCMW Dave]

Finally got the steering back together. What a PITA to get that steering shaft back into the U-joint. Now my steering wheel is off center (UGH). Im hoping to try to correct it by adjusting the lower U-joint, the upper is just too rough. I guess I can do that right? Im sure it wont make a difference, I hope.

It is sometimes easier to move the steering wheel one spline on the shaft, if you can get it to come off.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It is sometimes easier to move the steering wheel one spline on the shaft, if you can get it to come off.

+1
Think it's a finer spline anyway so you may not have to adjust the tie rods.

[DavidProehl]

A huge thanks to Clint, Jon, and Ryan who helped me replace my compressor, hoses, accumulator, and orifice tube yesterday. My compressor had seized on me a few months back. (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7741-Bad-A-C-Compressor-Seemed-to-lock-when-driving-spins-free-without-belt)

We had a brief scare when we stripped some access port threads, but Clint was able to re-thread them like the master he is and save the day. Held a vacuum and so far still blowing cold! Many thanks guys!

I'm still about 10 degrees warmer than everyone else's cars were. Need to troubleshoot that. Current thoughts are to check my screw on the pressure sensor, and to verify my hot water valve is functioning properly. Could anything else cause such a difference in temp? I've now replaced every A/C component except the condenser, which has held a charge like a champ.

Now for a few pictures!

Jon getting started:
22483

New compressor in!
22484

Holding vacuum...
22485

All hooked up:
22486

Going for a celebratory spin in Clint's restoration in process Honda Z:
22487

[SIMid]

Car was running extremely rough on start up, like it had a lumpy CAM. Thought it might be an injector. But some reason I had a feeling that the plugs needed to be changed.

Well, not bad for 5+ year old spark plugs! One of them looks a bit sick and I think I have reverted possible major problems.

I think the PO never changed them when he had the car semi-restored/serviced at DMCNW back in 2007!

[DMC5180]

Went for a 50+mile fall driving tour of the local countryside.

[DMC81]

225632256422565

Took the rear fascia off to get a better look at some things.....wood screws really? lol I was wanting to know if there is anything I can use to recover the impact absorber to give it a clean look and can someone give me the part # to the support plate under/behind the fascia? Mine is toast. Thanks.

[rdarlington]

Today I sandblasted the AC pulleys, painted them, and pressed in new bearings from Hervey. Put on a new alternator belt for the AC (yep, DMCH mixed up the bags, so my AC belt bag really has an alternator belt in it). Pulled the pencil/eraser out of the CO adjustment port and put in a real plug from DMCH.

Went for a ride with my buddy and the car died a few miles from home. Strong smell of gasoline. Uh oh! On a whim, I rolled it backward after letting it sit for a few and saw a puddle of gas up at the front end. A friend brought by some tools and after opening the access port, it was just a matter of putting a fuel line back on and tightening it down. This time I tightened properly. Oops.

Got home, decided to go get some tires and went for a 25 mile drive to the tire shop and got a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires in the front. Nobody local had any for the back in stock so they will wait. Time to get rid of that 31 year old rubber.

I don't know if anybody is interested in a set of original hoops with 3900 miles (3900.8 at the tire shop -at least for the front), but I have pictures posted on my website: http://www.nerdhouse.org/tires/

No clue what the white crap is on the tread. Must've been something they rolled in at the tire shop.

So now I'm starting to assemble an emergency road tool kit so that I'm not stranded again. I'm also learning to use a nut driver like a boss so I don't have a repeat of today's fun and games.

-Bob

[Rich]

......can someone give me the part # to the support plate under/behind the fascia? Mine is toast...
This one?
P/N 101764 = LWR SUPPORT BRACKET, REAR FASCIA

In this parts group: 1-5-0 Exhaust System/Muffler/Heatshields

[DMC81]

This one?
P/N 101764 = LWR SUPPORT BRACKET, REAR FASCIA

In this parts group: 1-5-0 Exhaust System/Muffler/Heatshields

Thats it Rich, thank you Sir.

[Conundrum]

Just came out of Walmart a little bit ago to find this on my DeLorean's windshield. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/16/emenuzev.jpg

[SAVAGE]

That's pretty cool^^^

[Josh]

225632256422565

Took the rear fascia off to get a better look at some things.....wood screws really? lol I was wanting to know if there is anything I can use to recover the impact absorber to give it a clean look and can someone give me the part # to the support plate under/behind the fascia? Mine is toast. Thanks.

That's an interesting exhaust you have there... lol. I recently refurbished my impact absorbers, I outlined the process in this thread. I had chunks missing out of the rear that I re constructed with spray foam as well.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7238-Impact-Absorber-Bars

i would love to help with the support plate but i do not know what you are referring to. If I recall correctly, the fiberglass back wall for the engine bay is no longer available if that is what you are talking about.

[DMC81]

That's an interesting exhaust you have there... lol. I recently refurbished my impact absorbers, I outlined the process in this thread. I had chunks missing out of the rear that I re constructed with spray foam as well.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7238-Impact-Absorber-Bars

i would love to help with the support plate but i do not know what you are referring to. If I recall correctly, the fiberglass back wall for the engine bay is no longer available if that is what you are talking about.

I am in the process of putting the factory exhaust back on it now. The last owner had cherry bombs welded up to a small custom bent pipe coming off the manifold. In this pic I only had the one side off so far, the other sides bolts are really rusted bad so I'm taking it slow.

[DeLorean937]

Rebuilt steering rack, tie rod ends, replaced angle drive. Getting ready to replace radiator, all rubber hoses, horns, rebuild front end wiring after PO hack job, and cooling fans. Until then, working on pulling the engine and transmission out for rear seal replacement and all other "while your in there seals" :)

[yellowmxwheels23]

This was done today.
22620

[sapphirexae]

This was done today.
22620

Lucky bastard, that look great! LOL

[refugeefromcalif]

I hit a new milestone today.



http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22623&d=1382134658


It had just over 4,500 when I picked it up on 9/12/12.

Am I driving it too much?
(Naw, just enough)...



George

[SIMid]

Just came out of Walmart a little bit ago to find this on my DeLorean's windshield. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/16/emenuzev.jpg

Haha! Awesome!!

I came out once from the shops and there were a pair of lips that some girl smacked onto the driver's side window. :wink:

[rdarlington]

Made the mistake of going to PepBoys to get tires. They did a fine job installing them. I saw one guy slam the rear louvers down hard. Did he think tires went in the engine bay? Another guy broke the plastic handle for my hood release. Did he think that would open the inner engine cover? I'll never see another one of those again, but it's a candidate for 3d printing. They had the thing up on a lift and were checking it out. Do the tires go under the car? When they actually got to work, the tires were 3" off the ground, where they should be.

That took two hours. Never again. Time to buy my own tire equipment.

[Lenny]

Two friends, from college 40 years ago, called and said they were in town and wanted to stop by and say hi. I asked them what there plans were today to try and find out how much time we had. His wife says the only thing she wants to do is go for a ride in the DeLorean:8)

So after Dim Sum for lunch we went back to the house. They took 20 photos or so and then both husband and wife giggled like little girls when I took them on a ride.

Then felt bad because it was so dirty I took it to the Car Wash.

[opethmike]

Washed the exterior, vacuumed the interior, changed the oil, put in some fuel stabilizer and put it away for winter storage.

[vwdmc16]

Finished my BMW e36 window seal mod on the passenger side with an improved fastener design. Also re adjusted the driver door locks that have been giving my issues lately, Decided to to with the front door lock rod for a while to see if that helps.

[NightFlyer]

Made the mistake of going to PepBoys to get tires. They did a fine job installing them. I saw one guy slam the rear louvers down hard. Did he think tires went in the engine bay? Another guy broke the plastic handle for my hood release. Did he think that would open the inner engine cover? I'll never see another one of those again, but it's a candidate for 3d printing. They had the thing up on a lift and were checking it out. Do the tires go under the car? When they actually got to work, the tires were 3" off the ground, where they should be.

That took two hours. Never again. Time to buy my own tire equipment.

Or you could just do as I do - take all the wheels off yourself and take only the wheels/tires to whomever you're going to have mounting the new tires. Also, it's best to avoid the chain places and find an old-school local mom/pop type of place with a machine that doesn't make direct contact with the wheel. It may take some calling around to find the right place in your area, but given the experience you just had, I'm sure you'll agree that it is well worth the effort! Live and learn.

[jawn101]

Or you could just do as I do - take all the wheels off yourself and take only the wheels/tires to whomever you're going to have mounting the new tires. Also, it's best to avoid the chain places and find an old-school local mom/pop type of place with a machine that doesn't make direct contact with the wheel. It may take some calling around to find the right place in your area, but given the experience you just had, I'm sure you'll agree that it is well worth the effort! Live and learn.

Big +1 on this. I just bring the wheels in. They can mount and balance without ever touching the car. I don't trust anyone but myself and the other local owners to do anything on it, which explains why I still haven't gotten the alignment I know I need. I don't even like letting the smog place touch it for 10 minutes every other year, but I really don't have much choice there.

[Mark D]

Big +1 on this. I just bring the wheels in. They can mount and balance without ever touching the car. I don't trust anyone but myself and the other local owners to do anything on it, which explains why I still haven't gotten the alignment I know I need. I don't even like letting the smog place touch it for 10 minutes every other year, but I really don't have much choice there.

+2

I had tires done this spring and I just took the wheels in separately. They still managed to lose my DMC chrome valve stem caps though. I guess next time I'll have to remove those too.

I also had to make certain that the clerk wrote 'sticky weights only' on the work order so I wouldn't come back and find my wheel paint ruined by those stupid hammer on lead weights on the outer lip.

[jawn101]

Not today, but on Saturday a bunch of NCDMC guys were invited to display our cars at the Sacramento Korean Festival. It was a great time - we rarely get to do shows where we feel comfortable abandoning the cars and enjoying the rest of the event, but this one was really different. Thanks to Ryan and his family for organizing it and inviting us!

Some photos...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22651&d=1382365050

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22652&d=1382365057

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22653&d=1382365064

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22654&d=1382365073

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22650&d=1382365044

Sorry for the mediocre quality on that last one. It's a scan of a real photo printed at the event and might just be my favorite picture from a car show ever.

[NightFlyer]

Not today, but on Saturday a bunch of NCDMC guys were invited to display our cars at the Sacramento Korean Festival. It was a great time - we rarely get to do shows where we feel comfortable abandoning the cars and enjoying the rest of the event, but this one was really different. Thanks to Ryan and his family for organizing it and inviting us!

Sorry for the mediocre quality on that last one. It's a scan of a real photo printed at the event and might just be my favorite picture from a car show ever.

OK, I'll ask - what's the connection between the DeLorean and Korea?

I'm the same way with my car and it's great when you can find a show like that! I've only been to 1 show this year where I've left without a single fingerprint on the car. It was a show put on by several area Boy Scout troupes. Very respectful crowd (not to mention that 1798 won best of show - first trophy ever)!

[jawn101]

OK, I'll ask - what's the connection between the DeLorean and Korea?

I'm the same way with my car and it's great when you can find a show like that! I've only been to 1 show this year where I've left without a single fingerprint on the car. It was a show put on by several area Boy Scout troupes. Very respectful crowd (not to mention that 1798 won best of show - first trophy ever)!

Very valid question. Not sure there was one, other than it was something cool to have at a nice outdoor festival. One of our local owners (not in the picture, but his car is the one with the wide side stripe) is Korean and his wife was working on the event, hence the invitation. :)

[NightFlyer]

Very valid question. Not sure there was one, other than it was something cool to have at a nice outdoor festival. One of our local owners (not in the picture, but his car is the one with the wide side stripe) is Korean and his wife was working on the event, hence the invitation. :)

Cool! :thumbup:

[Dangermouse]

I've noticed here in Atlanta that Koreans are very knowledgeable about the car/BTTF whereas other Asians such as Chinese and Indians have no idea about it. Must be a strong movie culture n Korea.

[vwdmc16]

I was wondering that too Jon, but I figured it had to do with Ryan's connection and wanting to be cool. Sorry I couldnt make it I was SO tired after working through friday night to 4 am at work, what makes it worse is that it all ended up to be for nothing....

I got a few ideas for a swap....

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/DMC2/20131004_120622_zps1c1245f4.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/vwdmc16/media/DMC2/20131004_120622_zps1c1245f4.jpg.html)

[jawn101]

I was wondering that too Jon, but I figured it had to do with Ryan's connection and wanting to be cool. Sorry I couldnt make it I was SO tired after working through friday night to 4 am at work, what makes it worse is that it all ended up to be for nothing....

I got a few ideas for a swap....

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/DMC2/20131004_120622_zps1c1245f4.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/vwdmc16/media/DMC2/20131004_120622_zps1c1245f4.jpg.html)

We missed you too! Check your email, I need the rest of the story from Friday...

Think the motor will fit? :)

[DavidProehl]

Not today, but on Saturday a bunch of NCDMC guys were invited to display our cars at the Sacramento Korean Festival. It was a great time - we rarely get to do shows where we feel comfortable abandoning the cars and enjoying the rest of the event, but this one was really different. Thanks to Ryan and his family for organizing it and inviting us!

Some photos...


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22650&d=1382365044

Sorry for the mediocre quality on that last one. It's a scan of a real photo printed at the event and might just be my favorite picture from a car show ever.

Love it! Thanks for posting! That's me on the far right looking way too excited to be in a mock wedding. Had a great time this past weekend, always fun to hang out with you guys! Thanks Ryan (RacerX) for organizing!

[jawn101]

Love it! Thanks for posting! That's me on the far right looking way too excited to be in a mock wedding. Had a great time this past weekend, always fun to hang out with you guys! Thanks Ryan (RacerX) for organizing!

Lots of fun for sure. We should find a good Korean restaurant we can all get to easily and experiment a little more with the food.

"We're The Davids and we approve this message"

[NightFlyer]

I've noticed here in Atlanta that Koreans are very knowledgeable about the car/BTTF whereas other Asians such as Chinese and Indians have no idea about it. Must be a strong movie culture n Korea.

South Koreans LOVE cinema and have a very vibrant domestic industry. I'm a huge fan/follower of the South Korean film industry. For dramas and romantic comedies, South Korean films in these genres are currently second to none and put Hollywood's efforts to shame. They were also starting to get into sci-fi and horror productions, but the global recession slowed down their push into these genres.

[DavidProehl]

South Koreans LOVE cinema and have a very vibrant domestic industry. I'm a huge fan/follower of the South Korean film industry. For dramas and romantic comedies, South Korean films in these genres are currently second to none and put Hollywood's efforts to shame. They were also starting to get into sci-fi and horror productions, but the global recession slowed down their push into these genres.

Speaking of South Korean films, the new Spike Lee movie "Oldboy" is a remake of a South Korean classic from 2003. Saw the original a couple years ago, solid film. Not usually a fan of Spike Lee, but I'll have to check out the remake.

[vwdmc16]

Lots of fun for sure. We should find a good Korean restaurant we can all get to easily and experiment a little more with the food.




There is a great Korean BBQ place Off hwy 50 near my work that is pretty good, they let you cook your food at the tables that have grilles built it them, its fun, Also have a all you can eat deal called " Meat Mountain" and that is a proper name for what you get. We must all do this one night.

[jawn101]

There is a great Korean BBQ place Off hwy 50 near my work that is pretty good, they let you cook your food at the tables that have grilles built it them, its fun, Also have a all you can eat deal called " Meat Mountain" and that is a proper name for what you get. We must all do this one night.

Omg, sold!!

[DeLorean03]

Began replacing my defunct windshield washer pump. Holy goodness. Not a fun time. Three of the rivnuts seized. One froze so badly I had no choice but to snap it from the plastic bucket. Once we got the plastic bucket out, we had to vicegrip the frozen rivnuts while applying a drill/driver with a socket attached to break them apart from each other. Got the new washer pump installed and tested it;it works great so far. I also took the time to drill five 1/4" holes in the bottom of the bucket to keep water from collecting in there from now on. Tomorrow, I'll install the new rivnuts, clean everything up, and re-install everything.

Word to the wise, have a good 3-5 hours ready when doing this (inevitable if you get frozen rivnuts like I did).

[Nick774]

Finished blasting and coating all the front end brackets and hardware as well as all of my suspension components. Flushed and cleaned out the radiator and installed Herveys new fans. Rebuilt my steering rack and replaced all boots and seals. Tomorrow I will be installing all these nice front end pieces and accompanied by the new set of blue Silicone hoses. Soon the hardlines, brakelines, etc. Meghan and I are nearing the long awaited marriage of 774 to its new backbone! Pics on the way.

Ps, Plenty of extra parts for sale here guys, check out the listing!

[DeLorean03]

All done - windshield washer pump has been changed out. The pump literally drenches the windshield now with cleaner. I had to adjust the wiper arm jet (end where the fluid comes out) with a microdriver and my wheel grinder. Got it to where the fluid is a good solid spray - a lot more than 2-4 drops of cleaner.

Do not do this job alone. It was a royal pain in my butt. Without Jessica, getting that wiring back in, that tube from being kinked, that bottle back in place, and easily the hardest part - getting all the holes lined back up with the rivnuts - no way dude.

Three rivenuts came out permanently, and one was rusted so in place that I cracked my tub to get it out (inadvertently). No good deed goes unpunished -____-.

Guess I'll either have Eddie fix that or learn fiberglass repair a bit more -___-.

22680

Just some of the goodies to do the job.

22679

The 32 year old washer pump (assuming).

[jawn101]

All done - windshield washer pump has been changed out. The pump literally drenches the windshield now with cleaner. I had to adjust the wiper arm jet (end where the fluid comes out) with a microdriver and my wheel grinder. Got it to where the fluid is a good solid spray - a lot more than 2-4 drops of cleaner.

Do not do this job alone. It was a royal pain in my butt. Without Jessica, getting that wiring back in, that tube from being kinked, that bottle back in place, and easily the hardest part - getting all the holes lined back up with the rivnuts - no way dude.

Three rivenuts came out permanently, and one was rusted so in place that I cracked my tub to get it out (inadvertently). No good deed goes unpunished -____-.

Guess I'll either have Eddie fix that or learn fiberglass repair a bit more -___-.

22680

Just some of the goodies to do the job.

22679

The 32 year old washer pump (assuming).

I guess I got lucky on mine - all the rivnuts were fine and rust-free. The pump, on the other hand...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22685&d=1382579230

[DeLorean03]

I guess I got lucky on mine - all the rivnuts were fine and rust-free. The pump, on the other hand...



It's crazy - like - you and LS1Nick both have told me how smoothly this went for you guys. I dunno - guess I just got "lucky".

Oh well, it's said and done. Last thing is to install new lower engine cover hinges (one of my studs broke off) before sending the car to Eddie.

Car heads his way starting Nov 4th. Car comes back my way the earliest being in late March-early April (read: When the snow and salt has been washed off the roads up here).

After that, I'll do whatever jobs on the car that pop up before seeing everyone at DCS 2014. The show is about 30 minutes from me, so , I guess I'll show up :rollin:

[DMC81]

I got the OE exhaust system back on the car today, started it up and it has a real bad leak at the block and exhaust manifold. All the exhaust manifold bolts are rusted and corroded beyond ever coming off without breaking so my question is what is the best plan of attack for this? Simply move to the other set of holes not being used?

[thirdmanj]

Changed the battery out, as the other one wasnt holding a charge. Back breaking work, lemme tell ya! Whew, hope I never have to do that again! ;)

Anyway, the strangest thing happened. She hadnt been run in a while so I decided to start her up, and let her idle until the cooling fans kicked on. Strange thing was they didn't. Temp got up to 220 and nothing. Let get just a little higher and the I turned the heater on full blast and shut it off. Hmmm. Poked around the diagrams a but to refresh my memory on the system (Chris B gave me a couple leads too) and decided nothing could be done that night. Fast forward to today. It was about 55 out, I started her up, drove her around a bit then let her idle and wouldn't ya know the fans kicked on right when they normally do. :headscratch:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I idled my car today with air temp about 60 deg/F and the fans never kicked on either. Temp guage sat just below the first quarter line.

[jawn101]

Scraped off the remains of my passenger side rear outer door seal and installed a new one from DPI. Self-adhesive all the way on these, gents... that 3M weatherstrip adhesive may be great for sticking but it's a bitch for removing.

Door still isn't closing quite right with a seal installed. This new one may not last that long. Still not 100% sure why.

[Lenny]

I had to teach a class in Naples and since I had to drive down I got a Tow Dolly from UHaul and hooked up the DeLorean. I dropped it off at DMC Florida in Bonita Springs. If Tony get's it fixed I'll pick it up and bring it home today. It will save a day of my time.

[NightFlyer]

I had to teach a class in Naples and since I had to drive down I got a Tow Dolly from UHaul and hooked up the DeLorean. I dropped it off at DMC Florida in Bonita Springs. If Tony get's it fixed I'll pick it up and bring it home today. It will save a day of my time.

What happened to your car that it needs to be fixed?

[Lenny]

What happened to your car that it needs to be fixed?

Master cylinder is bad, and the wings-a-loft drivers door actuator is bad. I've only used the drivers door Wings-A-Loft button 8 or 9 times since it was installed.

I try to drive the car at least every 2 weeks but because I travel so much I don't get to drive it as much as I want.

[dmc3130]

Scraped off the remains of my passenger side rear outer door seal and installed a new one from DPI. Self-adhesive all the way on these, gents... that 3M weatherstrip adhesive may be great for sticking but it's a bitch for removing.

Door still isn't closing quite right with a seal installed. This new one may not last that long. Still not 100% sure why.



Soooooo, you finally got the passenger side done. It's about time slacker!!!!!!:tongue_stick:

[Farrar]

Said goodbye to the distributor. Again. Third distributor is en route...

[jawn101]

Soooooo, you finally got the passenger side done. It's about time slacker!!!!!!:tongue_stick:

Hey man, it's a crappy job! :)

Speaking of crappy jobs I still need to replace (proactively) the passenger side window regulator as well as the accumulator fuel hoses. Got a short list of non criticals built up to keep me amused when it's rainy out :) I suspect another new water pump will be one of them.

[dmc3130]

Not today, but on Saturday a bunch of NCDMC guys were invited to display our cars at the Sacramento Korean Festival. It was a great time - we rarely get to do shows where we feel comfortable abandoning the cars and enjoying the rest of the event, but this one was really different. Thanks to Ryan and his family for organizing it and inviting us!

Some photos...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22651&d=1382365050

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22652&d=1382365057

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22653&d=1382365064

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22654&d=1382365073

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22650&d=1382365044

Sorry for the mediocre quality on that last one. It's a scan of a real photo printed at the event and might just be my favorite picture from a car show ever.



Sorry I missed this one. Looked like a great time

[kbrown84]

went component shopping today for new transistors, resistors, caps, and diodes to fix my trans governor! time to go cross-eyed with a soldering iron!

KB

[NightFlyer]

Said goodbye to the distributor. Again. Third distributor is en route...

Third time's the charm :biggrin:

[dustybarn]

Pressed new wheel bearings into my front hubs and reassembled everything. No bearing play, and the peculiar slight wander the car had appears to be fixed. It feels much more surefooted than before.

[DavidProehl]

Jon's How-To (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8442-How-To-Making-new-seat-backs-for-under-20) inspired me to repair my passenger seat back, which has been broken since I bought the car 5 years ago.


Here are some before & after shots.

2280122802228032280422805

My driver's side is still in good condition, but I may have to freshen it up as well after seeing how the passenger side turned out!

[jawn101]

Jon's How-To (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8442-How-To-Making-new-seat-backs-for-under-20) inspired me to repair my passenger seat back, which has been broken since I bought the car 5 years ago.


Here are some before & after shots.

2280122802228032280422805

My driver's side is still in good condition, but I may have to freshen it up as well after seeing how the passenger side turned out!

Awesome David!! Did you get the staple depth worked out? It looks great.

[kbrown84]

Started tearing down my intake today...degreasing everything and prepping for enamel. Had to evict a lovely rodents nest from under the fuel/air mixer...but it all cleaned up nice!

[DavidProehl]

Awesome David!! Did you get the staple depth worked out? It looks great.

Adding the foam provided a buffer for the 6mm staple depth. Worked great!

[kbrown84]

Got my intake parts cleaned up...even got some color on today!

[dustybarn]

Did about 150 miles this weekend, antique-hunting in the Finger Lakes. Bought a 1956-vintage RCA Victor portable TV and a Nimrod pipe lighter.

[djdogbone]

Did LEDs on the doors, repaired a faulty door light, replaced a failng AC blow motor and discovered a rusted out parking light....gonna need a new socket, rubber seal and parking light if possible.

[rdarlington]

Changed the oil, replaced the oil sender unit with a PS133 lifetime model from Auto Zone. The sender doesn't seem to have a continuous range, but instead appears to have steps so the needle doesn't smoothly transition between pressure readings. No biggie, just not expected.

[Josh]

Passenger side is next, doing major door adjustments

22880

[AirmanPika]

Started tearing down my intake today...degreasing everything and prepping for enamel. Had to evict a lovely rodents nest from under the fuel/air mixer...but it all cleaned up nice!

I love seeing this kind of work having done it myself. In my case it was massive amounts of acorns and mud. I pulled all the parts right before a pair of blizzards (2010) so I have fond memories of cleaning up the parts while my car sat under 2 feet of snow.

I've been curious how the work has held out over the years but I don't feel like tearing the intake apart to look.

[AirmanPika]

And today I replaced my oil for the first time in like 4 years :P I wanted to get it done on what may be the last warm day of the year.

Yea, only saving grace was I barely drive the car but it was badly due. The other common fluids were replaced more recently so those are good for a while.

[kbrown84]

I got my shipment from DMC Midwest today...I am utterly impressed! I called yesterday morning and it showed up today...not to mention Dave was a top notch guy and super helpful. Now to find time from working on other D's to get mine back on the road.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed the passenger side door gas strut bracket. This is the bracket from Heninger so it installs without removing the 1/4 panel. I bought both sides but wondering why the drivers side does not get bent like the passenger side. Every car I've seen has the passenger side that needs a new bracket.

[NightFlyer]

Installed the passenger side door gas strut bracket. This is the bracket from Heninger so it installs without removing the 1/4 panel. I bought both sides but wondering why the drivers side does not get bent like the passenger side. Every car I've seen has the passenger side that needs a new bracket.

Probably because the driver, who is most likely always the owner of the car, is more careful/delicate with operating the door than the passengers are. That's why I personally prefer to operate the door for any passengers that I may be giving rides to. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I'm still using the stock/OEM struts that came on the car from Dunmurry over 32 years later and both ball studs are fine...

[jawn101]

Installed the passenger side door gas strut bracket. This is the bracket from Heninger so it installs without removing the 1/4 panel. I bought both sides but wondering why the drivers side does not get bent like the passenger side. Every car I've seen has the passenger side that needs a new bracket.

It was the opposite on mine, Dave - my driver's side was really screwed up, passenger side only slightly so. Either way, Heninger's awesome brackets corrected both of them :)

[rdarlington]

Installed half of the eyebrow minimizer kit from DeLorean Upgrade Parts:

http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page10.html

The instructions are pretty terrible :hmm: but this isn't really rocket surgery.

In the process I scratched a bit of the paint trying to get the headlight trim out (chrome part that holds the headlights in). The screws are not accessible without really pushing hard on the fascia or prying it. I had to adjust the position of the high beam bracket so I could get the bar in. Looks like I'll be adjusting headlights tomorrow and doing the other side.

Overall, I'm not really impressed with the results for $50, especially when factoring in the instructions that right at the top say they should not be used as instructions, it's just the procedure they use. I would say they knocked the problem back about 75% but no more. I kind of wish I just bought some steel bars at the hardware store for a few bucks and ground the edge so it would slip in easier, just like on these things. Would've saved me about $40 but at the end of the day it's really not enough of a fix to risk paint damage when doing the job.

Pros: Only a phillips head screwdriver needed, plus maybe something else to pry with
Cons: Doesn't really cut the mustard. To do this right you need to use heat, clamps, and adhesives.

-Bob

[Josh]

Installed half of the eyebrow minimizer kit from DeLorean Upgrade Parts:

http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page10.html

The instructions are pretty terrible :hmm: but this isn't really rocket surgery.

In the process I scratched a bit of the paint trying to get the headlight trim out (chrome part that holds the headlights in). The screws are not accessible without really pushing hard on the fascia or prying it. I had to adjust the position of the high beam bracket so I could get the bar in. Looks like I'll be adjusting headlights tomorrow and doing the other side.

Overall, I'm not really impressed with the results for $50, especially when factoring in the instructions that right at the top say they should not be used as instructions, it's just the procedure they use. I would say they knocked the problem back about 75% but no more. I kind of wish I just bought some steel bars at the hardware store for a few bucks and ground the edge so it would slip in easier, just like on these things. Would've saved me about $40 but at the end of the day it's really not enough of a fix to risk paint damage when doing the job.

Pros: Only a phillips head screwdriver needed, plus maybe something else to pry with
Cons: Doesn't really cut the mustard. To do this right you need to use heat, clamps, and adhesives.

-Bob

Don't mean to be a jerk but i could have told you this before hand! The heat gun is key to straightening the fascia.

[rdarlington]

Don't mean to be a jerk but i could have told you this before hand! The heat gun is key to straightening the fascia.

You're not being a jerk. I'm only half way through so there is plenty of opportunity to just re-do it right. I'll see how it goes this weekend.

-Bob

[Josh]

You're not being a jerk. I'm only half way through so there is plenty of opportunity to just re-do it right. I'll see how it goes this weekend.

-Bob

I wish you the best of luck. Take it slow with the heat gun and at a low heat to prevent any damage to the paint. I remember seeing a how to of this process... it is around here somewhere.