What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[jmpdmc]

Bob,

This might be helpful: 22958 I have not used it and credit all goes to the author but it looks well written with pictures. Good luck.



Jeff

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put the door strut onto the new bracket. The doors now look like they open the same amount on both sides. The passenger side always looked lower than the drivers side. Both my doors do not open fully at 55 degree F today but do stay fully open if I help them. I also may play with those top seals. The seals do bind (I think they are too wide on the rubber). My drivers side also lifts the T-panel.

[chris williams]

Installed the passenger side door gas strut bracket. This is the bracket from Heninger so it installs without removing the 1/4 panel. I bought both sides but wondering why the drivers side does not get bent like the passenger side. Every car I've seen has the passenger side that needs a new bracket.
Just received mine today, the list of winter jobs is getting longer....! (PX side also)
Chris

[rdarlington]

Installed half of the eyebrow minimizer kit from DeLorean Upgrade Parts:

http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page10.html

The instructions are pretty terrible :hmm: but this isn't really rocket surgery.

<snip>

I would say they knocked the problem back about 75% but no more.

<snip>
-Bob

Here are some before and after shots:

Before:
22961

After:
22962

Done!
22963

[DeLorean03]

As my car is with Eddie, we (Jessica, the owner, and myself) helped VIN 10480 do this for the first time since 2008:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PlyQkZ_Hcw

[Josh]

sounds pretty rough

[DeLorean03]

Don't worry, it'll run great once Eddie is done with it. As he told me: "Jeremiah, just get it to where it can be started and driven on a transport. That's all I need."

He'll be doing a full on EFI conversion on it. For not being started in 4-5 years, I think it's pretty good ;). That video was taken just as the engine was able to idle on its own power.

The look on the owner's face when she saw her baby start up again was worth all 6.5 hours to me :thumbup:.

[NightFlyer]

The look on the owner's face when she saw her baby start up again was worth all 6.5 hours to me :thumbup:.

Her face...?

Single? How old? :biggrin:

[SherryC]

Her face...?

Single? How old? :biggrin:

Single-but-attached, and I-ain't-tellin' :cool1:

I started a new thread for restoration and mod of Vin# 10480 here http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8569-Mod-amp-Restoration-of-Vin-10480 so ya'll stop by, visit, and follow the fun!

[NightFlyer]

Single-but-attached, and I-ain't-tellin' :cool1:

I started a new thread for restoration and mod of Vin# 10480 here http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8569-Mod-amp-Restoration-of-Vin-10480 so ya'll stop by, visit, and follow the fun!

Sounds good - welcome to the community :smile:

[Kenny_Z]

I went to see Dark World. Apparently Red was flirting in the parking lot.

http://31.media.tumblr.com/400c1358a3345670032ee46baa3925bd/tumblr_mw4bcpLJak1rdjq2mo1_1280.jpg

[Domi]

Awesome!

[kbrown84]

This is just about true...

[ALEXAKOS]

I went to see Dark World. Apparently Red was flirting in the parking lot.
DAMN!!! Missed the chance to score!!!!
Next time stay in your D!
:deviltail:

[Farrar]

DAMN!!! Missed the chance to score!!!!
Next time stay in your D!
:deviltail:

http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20090917190061/uncyclopedia/images/0/05/Pedobear1.gif

[Kenny_Z]

Farrar is probably right. I can't say I've seen women my age draw hearts or circles instead of dots. I haven't actually seen handwriting that nice since high school.

[Elvis]

An hour ago...sorry for the blurred pic, my focus was on the street... :-P

23047

[DavidProehl]

Over 200 Mph? What engine do you have in there? Where were you able to do this?

This brings up another question - what is the fastest a DeLorean has ever gone? And no, I don't mean the Tuned attempt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFEqClpt5ck) to find the fastest. Between the LS1, DeLotus, etc there have got to be some great top speeds out there for a engine swapped D.

[sdg3205]

That's kmh, so about 120 mph.

[Rad Dad]

Over 200 Mph? What engine do you have in there? Where were you able to do this?

This brings up another question - what is the fastest a DeLorean has ever gone? And no, I don't mean the Tuned attempt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFEqClpt5ck) to find the fastest. Between the LS1, DeLotus, etc there have got to be some great top speeds out there for a engine swapped D.


My father used to say, when talking about who caught the biggest fish - - - -"the first liar doesn't have a chance!!!!" Same goes true for best gas mileage and fastest DeLorean.

Let the games begin!

Dick Ryan

Mileage = above average
Speed = only in double digits

[sdg3205]

I hit 200 km/h on the coquihala highway in August, at least according to my GPS.

[DavidProehl]

That's kmh, so about 120 mph.

Ok, that makes more sense now. Picture was blurry enough I was thinking it was MPH with an updated speedo.

[Dangermouse]

Elvis is in Germany also, which helps



One of the UK guys claimed 136mph on a trip to Germany last year, stock apart from a Volvo distributor iirc.

[Elvis]

I have seen such speedos, calibrated like shit or not at all...

on my picture you can compare tach and speedo - 5th gear...do the math...

[Farrar]

what is the fastest a DeLorean has ever gone?

Well, the Earth rotates at about 1,000 MPH, and it travels around the sun at about 67,000 MPH, so...

...sorry, I suck at math. So I'll just say "fast-ish."

[sdg3205]

I know of one owner and vendor who has hit 140 mph in a stock Delorean.

[DavidProehl]

I know of one owner and vendor who has hit 140 mph in a stock Delorean.


140 qualifies as fast. I've never taken mine past 91, now I have a goal to aim for ;)

Today I took some vacation time to visit the Blackhawk Auto Museum (http://www.blackhawkmuseum.org/) and to take the D into San Fran for the first time. A couple things I learned:


Blackhawk is worth the trip if you are in Northern California
Driving stick on San Fran hills is no fun.


Here is one photo from the day:

23055

[jawn101]

140 qualifies as fast. I've never taken mine past 91, now I have a goal to aim for ;)

Today I took some vacation time to visit the Blackhawk Auto Museum (http://www.blackhawkmuseum.org/) and to take the D into San Fran for the first time. A couple things I learned:


Blackhawk is worth the trip if you are in Northern California
Driving stick on San Fran hills is no fun.


Here is one photo from the day:

23055

What the crap, you went without us?? Prepare to be heckled roundly tomorrow, my friend. Glad you liked Blackhawk, that place is off the hook amazing. Did you do Twin Peaks?

[DavidProehl]

For the record, I went solo. No Mrs. She still needs to go on this drive as well. And I didn't do Twin Peaks, still need to do that drive. There is still a San Fran trip needed, and we will hit the bridge, worry not! I was more than halfway there by the time I got to Blackhawk and had daylight left, so I figured why not?

[DrJeff]

Fitted new outer door seals.

First some history : First time I went with the stock outer edging and used 3M 8008 black adhesive for trim. It was a royal PITA and I got black mess everywhere. I could clean up the excess adhesive, but the worst bit was that I couldn't get the outer trim placed evenly. When the doors would close the trim would stick out in some places and recess in others. It was almost impossible to get it to stay and set in the right place.

But Now! : Since I wanted to fix the door bounce and bolt down the roof I had to re-do the outer door seals. This time I got 25ft of 93085K91 from the McMaster-Carr website - listed on the Delorean crossover part listing. This seal comes with adhesive backing already fitted. I was able to place it exactly where I wanted it so that it runs evenly. The adhesive even allowed for a little adjustment and has stuck in place really well. The 93085K91 cost just under $1 per foot, so that is $25 plus shipping to do RH and LH, front and rear (other options are much more expensive).

I don't think I would have pulled off the old seal unless I had too (for a roof bolt down), not because the seal is hard to remove, but rather because cleaning up the panel edges from the 3M 8008 was probably 3 hours in total work. If you pull the front outer seal you can also end up scratching the windshield surround - I found it impossible to get the 3M 8008 off the surround without scratching it - which of course meant refinishing and repainting the surrounds.

[kbrown84]

Got my wheels sent off for powdercoating, new tires ordered, new dash in, radio fixed...waiting for my last shipment of parts and I'll be on the road!

[DrJeff]

Tonight I finally got to mounting the rearview mirror. I've wired in a auto dimming rearview mirror, but it proved to heavy to stay in place just with sticky pads (even the propose designed ones). So I created a t-shaped bracket that secures to the bolts holding the visors in place. It comes up and over the headliner.

I also recovered the headliner with new cloth, supported by aluminium bars to hug the roof and secured in place by stainless steel clips. Just the new outer door seal to fit and doors to adjust to finish this long running series of projects.

[DMCMW Dave]

Use 3m adhesive remover.




I don't think I would have pulled off the old seal unless I had too (for a roof bolt down), not because the seal is hard to remove, but rather because cleaning up the panel edges from the 3M 8008 was probably 3 hours in total work. If you pull the front outer seal you can also end up scratching the windshield surround - I found it impossible to get the 3M 8008 off the surround without scratching it - which of course meant refinishing and repainting the surrounds.




Sent from my phone

[Bitsyncmaster]

Use 3m adhesive remover.

I used MEK but even that took time.

[Rich]

Use 3m adhesive remover.

This is good stuff Dave's recommending.

3M 08987 Gen Purpose Adh. Remover.

Naptha + xylene. It really rips, is made for this job.

Also great for getting the leftover foam tape off after removing unwanted OEM badges/emblems from a painted car. Won't screw up the paint.

[SIMid]

Pulled out the steering rack last night. The steering wheel locked up me a few days ago going through a round about.

Uni-joint bolt was not rubbing the frame, all tie rods where not bent and the LCA was not bent either. Must be the rack, maybe a failed bearing.....?

[nwotank]

Finished up steering wheel with DMC logo

http://gvmpl.us/x129

[Mike F]

Replaced my leaky, causing-gauge-to-fly-all-over-the-place oil pressure sender. Hopefully the new one lasts longer than the one I replaced (less than a year old). I went the AutoZone route this time (PS133; fits 1978 Corvette; lifetime warranty!). Threaded right in, and the gauge is finally behaving again!

[sdg3205]

Replaced my leaky, causing-gauge-to-fly-all-over-the-place oil pressure sender. Hopefully the new one lasts longer than the one I replaced (less than a year old). I went the AutoZone route this time (PS133; fits 1978 Corvette; lifetime warranty!). Threaded right in, and the gauge is finally behaving again!

I had no idea the oil pressure gauges could actually behave!

[Mike F]

I had no idea the oil pressure gauges could actually behave!

Ha! I'm sure it will be back to its old ways soon enough!

[Jonathan]

I finished my front brakes caliper rebuilds. New pistons, pads, hardware, clips, seals and fluid, while cleaning up the calipers and reusing them.

Everything is reassembled and reinstalled, but judging by the weather and the salt, sand, and snow on the roads, my test drive to see if the difference is noticeable might be waiting until March.

Such is life how we so often take for granted, but not advantage of, things when we can, yet long for the day to have them again when we can't or they are gone.

My big ole box of "to be installed" parts is thankfully getting smaller though. I just need to keep reminding myself to enjoy the car before those boxes are empty.

[rdarlington]

I installed a set of front speakers and uploaded a picture to Amazon so people know they fit. Since Amazon knows what cars I drive, it's specifically telling me these don't fit. Dave pointed out in another thread that the tabs bend and there's even a score mark so you get it straight. Bend the tabs, and these fit the original dash without any problems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/mo26T3GNKGHAW58/B0018SJ4AK/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link

I didn't think they were too hard to get in. Just a little awkward with my big hands. A trick I used to get the nuts to stay in the socket was to use some of the excess plastic the speakers were wrapped in. Just folded it over so it was 2 layers and pressed the nut into the socket with the plastic under the nut. After pulling away the excess plastic, the nut was snug and didn't want to jump out when brought near the magnet.

The old speaker cones were completely separated at the edges. These sound a bit better to say the least.

-Bob

[TEXSIX]

Run off the freeway at 60mph into the wall. Total loss.

[DavidProehl]

Run off the freeway at 60mph into the wall. Total loss.

So sorry to hear that! I hope you came out of it ok, that looks like it was a rough crash. What specifically happened? Someone not paying attention trying to turn into you?

[jawn101]

Run off the freeway at 60mph into the wall. Total loss.

Oh, crap. Are you OK?? Looks like a rough crash, very surprised the doors stayed shut and that you're posting so soon after. Hope everyone made it out safely.

That said, yes - very curious what happened! Was it caused by someone else on the road? Component failure of some kind?

[Michael]

I'm sure everyone (including myself) is curious as to what happened here but I am going to assume a few things:

A: I assume the owner is Tex and he is OK. Judging by the pic title, the accident took place 11/17. This car is also the one pictured at DMCH.

B: I think if he was ready to share what happened he would have done so, and will do so if/when he is ready...so I will not push for answers.

lets just wait for him to share when he feels the time is right. He may in fact be injured to some degree and unable to post much, or he may just need some more time to collect himself. In any event, lets give him a little breathing room. :grouphugg:

[Dangermouse]

Sorry to hear/see about your accident.

[gongloo]

Run off the freeway at 60mph into the wall. Total loss.

So sorry to hear it! Thoughts and prayers with you.

[DeLorean03]

Dang man, sorry to see it. Hope you're doing ok - both with your health and coping with the situation.

[TEXSIX]

You can talk about things happening fast, but you really have no idea just what fast is. For me I was in the marked exit lane on I-10 in Houston, when a woman in a "98 Honda in the next lane decided she wanted to exit also. She just jerked her car to the right, with her front tire at my nose. Two things could have happened. If I hit her, we both would have been in five lanes of on coming traffic, probably killing us both, or hit the brakes and hit the wall.
The car hit head on into the wall, bounced off and spun hitting the rear, breaking the carrier and trailing arm, then bounced back hitting the right front and sliding down the freeway. Quite a ride. Total time, less than 30 seconds.
The woman in the Honda took off, never stopping. My luck, another woman chased her down, took pictures of her car with her cell phone and got her license plate number. By the time she returned to give me the information, and get my email address, so she could send me the pictures, the fire dept, wrecker, and police were there. The car went to DMC, but I walked away, small cut on my leg, and some sore muscles. Picture of the running Honda, and license went to my insurance company and they, not the police tracked her down.

[eagle-co94]

...My luck, another woman chased her down, took pictures of her car with her cell phone and got her license plate number. By the time she returned to give me the information, and get my email address, so she could send me the pictures, the fire dept, wrecker, and police were there. The car went to DMC, but I walked away, small cut on my leg, and some sore muscles. Picture of the running Honda, and license went to my insurance company and they, not the police tracked her down.

Now THAT is the best news I have heard in a VERY long time!

[DeLorean03]

I hope she gets totally devastated and can't ride anything more than a bicycle with training wheels.

That's all I am going to say to keep my response civil - needless to say - there are "trends" between who is in car accidents more and who causes accidents more. I'll just leave it at that.

[Michael]

My thoughts exactly, I see it so many time it just pisses me off so much to see these dumb idiots risk so much to gain so little. It's always the same, some dumb ass passes 2 or three cars to BARELY make an exit when they could have just as easily got in line because really, you are all getting to the next red light at the same time.

I really hate to see what some POS did to your car, but I am also glad to hear you walked away...and to a lesser extent, I'm glad to see that the woman that caused this totally avoidable wreck caught. The only problem I see is are the police not involved? Did they not even cite her? If it's just your insurance going after her with no police involvement, do they even have a leg to stand on?

[pezzonovante88]

Stupid bitch - I hope she has to walk her ass to the bus stop everyday for the rest of her life. Really sorry to see this, but it's good to hear you're okay.

[sdg3205]

Here in BC there has been a scary and disgusting rise is hit and runs. Not car to car, but rather a car running over and killing a person with the driver fleeing. It's absolutely abhorrent.

The worst part is most drivers are never caught. In the 5 most recent, I don't think anyone has been caught.

[SIMid]

Put the refurbished rack back into the D.

Need a new knuckle (bent outwards), parts ordered.

[rdarlington]

I installed the rear Infinity speakers today and found it to be quite a bit easier than installing the front speakers. Don't get me wrong, the front speakers were not difficult, but it did require a lot of contorting that the rears did not require.

Annoyingly, the drivers side seat belt bolt anchor decided to spin, but a rattle gun and screw driver carefully poked through from the outside got it loose. Otherwise it was very straight forward. My car had no fir trees fasteners at all holding those panels on.

As expected, all four speakers were deteriorated to a point where there was no trace of anything connecting the cones to the metal frame of the speaker. The foam (or whatever they used back then) was completely disintegrated.

The sound is quite a bit better now, but definitely no low end out of these speakers. Eventually I'll get a small sub installed behind the driver's seat.

-Bob

[Kenny_Z]

Changed the oil and put in one of those carpet dash covers. I'm preparing for this Saturday's local parade.

[DMCflux]

Put this nos lebra on. Fit like a glove.
23486

[vwdmc16]

Steel wooled and Clay barred the glass on mine, windows have never been this clean since ive owned her. I hate cleaning glass:mad2:

[jawn101]

Steel wooled and Clay barred the glass on mine, windows have never been this clean since ive owned her. I hate cleaning glass:mad2:

Dammit! I need that done too, but now I know not to ask you :)

[vwdmc16]

Well you can come over and I will show my technique but you can clean your own damn window.

[jawn101]

Well you can come over and I will show my technique but you can clean your own damn window.

..LOL

Fair enough :)

[DavidProehl]

Dammit! I need that done too, but now I know not to ask you :)

Ha! Same here. My windows seem to be perpetually dirty/hazy, even after a cleaning. Never even knew what claybar was until this post.

[jawn101]

Ha! Same here. My windows seem to be perpetually dirty/hazy, even after a cleaning. Never even knew what claybar was until this post.

I smell a window-cleaning day in our future.... :)

[Michael]

Took mine out for the first time in almost a month. I love driving days when I haven't had her out for awhile because it's almost like it's my first time in a DeLorean.

[rdarlington]

This week I put in the Toby sway bar bushing kit. I was able to get 3 out of 4 donut bushings into the LCA just with my hands. #4 needed a little nudge with a clamp. Overall pretty easy to do. It helped to have a second person pull or push on the wheels to get some bolt holes lined up.

Today I tackled putting in a the steering column bushing, again from Toby / DMCNW. I didn't even need to get the car jacked up. Everything was accessible through the access panels in the trunk. No need to remove the steering column either!

A previous owner had some heater hose wedged in there. No idea what they were thinking but that's out now.

I made up a custom tool from stuff I had laying around in the shop. Basically studs and nuts from a clamping kit for a milling machine:

23650

And with the bushing in place:

23651

Once this was banged in so it stayed in place, I then used a short stud, 2 nuts and a 22 or 23 mm socket to build a little clamping system. Just tightened it up and the bushing snapped into place. Again, no need to get under the car and no need to take out the column. I'm not going to kid anybody, it was a pain in the ass, but it wasn't terrible. It would've probably helped to have an extra person, but absolutely doable by yourself.

-Bob

[rdarlington]

And I currently have a bottle of tranny fluid hanging like an IV bag from the lower engine cover latch with a tube running down to the transmission fill bolt hole. Funny how slow this stuff moves when it's cold. It takes about 90 minutes to drain a quart out of the bottle -even with an air vent poked in it. Bottle #3 is hanging. I'll finish up tomorrow and see how she does.

23658

[vwdmc16]

Re routed the Ac lines in the engine bay that were always uncomfortably close to the exhaust, also installed heat repellent jackets on them to protest them.

[Domi]

Installed Tomcio led doors light, those are really great :thumbup:

[jawn101]

Washed it for the first time in months and took a drive. It was a tough couple of weeks there but our CA "winter" is back :)

[Nick774]

Finished the rear suspension with new shocks, coils, new paint and bushings. Fuel lines, radiator, steering rack and other goodies are all installed. today will be the fuel tank followed by the cooling pipes and new silicone hoses. I may be relocating for work next month so I'm hoping to drop the body on this month. not even a broken foot will slow me down and I couldn't do it without the help of my fiance. Shes on fuel line detail. Our frame finally sits on its wheels for the first time in over a year. :woot:

[rdarlington]

I replaced all 35 (give or take) screws that hold the three access panels down in the trunk. I wasn't sure how many were in there so I went ahead and bought two packs of 50 from McMaster-Carr. Well, I have a lot left over! A pack of 50 was $7.27 or about 15 cents each.

23967

Here's the URL to the part: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92000A326

They offer them with a black oxide finish in packs of 10 for $7.48 or about 75 cents each: http://www.mcmaster.com/#95836a455

I recommend using anti-seize compound aka, "personnel seeking compound" to prevent galling (friction welding). Total price for the two packs of screws was $21.22 including ground shipping that took 2 days to get here.

-Bob

[eagle-co94]

Registered it (yesterday)!

[dustybarn]

Removed seats and headliners for reupholstering. Removed t-panel and bolted the roof box in place (it didn't appear to be lifting, but now it never will). I removed the louvers as well, in preparation for de-torquing the passenger's side torsion bar.

[rdarlington]

Removed seats and headliners for reupholstering. Removed t-panel and bolted the roof box in place (it didn't appear to be lifting, but now it never will). I removed the louvers as well, in preparation for de-torquing the passenger's side torsion bar.

I had the t-panel off last night and today to put the little wiring access cover back in place. Totally forgot this last time I was in there. I should've bolted down the panel. I can't tell if mine is lifting or not but bolts are cheap insurance. Next time. I still haven't bonded the weather strip back over the t-panel screws so it won't be such a pain in the butt.

-Bob

[Josh]

I replaced all 35 (give or take) screws that hold the three access panels down in the trunk. I wasn't sure how many were in there so I went ahead and bought two packs of 50 from McMaster-Carr. Well, I have a lot left over! A pack of 50 was $7.27 or about 15 cents each.

23967

Here's the URL to the part: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92000A326

They offer them with a black oxide finish in packs of 10 for $7.48 or about 75 cents each: http://www.mcmaster.com/#95836a455

I recommend using anti-seize compound aka, "personnel seeking compound" to prevent galling (friction welding). Total price for the two packs of screws was $21.22 including ground shipping that took 2 days to get here.

-Bob

After drilling out every single rivnut in the trunk because half the screws were seized I replaced all the screws as well! However I opted for button heads to avoid rounding the heads out in the future. Good call on the anti-seize though.

[SIMid]

Replaced the steering knuckle, tie rods and fuel filter (old one was blocked).

Discovered torn rear draft shaft boots. Grr!

[dustybarn]

Glued new fabric to the headliner boards. Reinstalling them and gluing the fabric to the door apertures will have to wait until it's warmer in the barn. And then I unscrewed the seat tracks from the seats.

I was sooooo careful when I removed the t- panel; I made sure to wear leather gloves. And then when I went to just temporarily reinstall it on the car for safekeeping, without fasteners......I cut myself within 5 seconds of picking it up.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Glued new fabric to the headliner boards. Reinstalling them and gluing the fabric to the door apertures will have to wait until it's warmer in the barn. And then I unscrewed the seat tracks from the seats.

I was sooooo careful when I removed the t- panel; I made sure to wear leather gloves. And then when I went to just temporarily reinstall it on the car for safekeeping, without fasteners......I cut myself within 5 seconds of picking it up.

Best to take a file and remove those sharp burrs.

[jawn101]

Took my sister and brother in law out for quick drives around town. Let my 3 year old nephews sit in it and pretend to drive.

[DMCflux]

Santa must know I'm a Delorean owner
24056

[jawn101]

Santa must know I'm a Delorean owner
24056

Wow, bad ass!! Lucky guy.

[JohnZ]

Ahah Santa knows everything! I found two DMC t-shirts under the three today!!

:D :D

[ALEXAKOS]

Ahah Santa knows everything! I found two DMC t-shirts under the three today!!
:D :D
So you got five? heheheh 8)
Cool gifts everyone!
Those DMC bags look sweet. Almost got my self a pair with the good discount they made but missed the outgoing bulk shipment.

[JohnZ]

Ups! an "h" fell in there! :notworthy:

[eagle-co94]

Pics or it didn't happen!

[JohnZ]

24057

There you are!

:D

[eagle-co94]

Nice! With all the t-shirt options online anymore I was really curious about which shirts you got. Merry Christmas!

[JohnZ]

Well I like my brother's choice (hes the one that gave me the present!) because it's not so clear what is all about! If the car was pictured I would have been bombarded with questions about it, but if someone just sees "DMC" he does not realize what it really is! At least here in Italy / where I live! Moreover it resembles a kind of a "fashion brand"... like "Versace" and all that stuff!

It's like carrying a glimpse of the Delorean and not really shouting "I own a Delorean!"

Good move bro!

:rock_on:

[ALEXAKOS]

Great t-shirts gio!! Black n white especially. Trendy it is!


Sent from a mobile device. Please excuse typos etc

[Kenny_Z]

I took Red on a drive around the block while waiting on my family. It was fun to see the looks from family visiting my neighbors. "Wait, is that a DeLorean?" "Yeah, we see it all the time."

[Spittybug]

Santa must know I'm a Delorean owner
24056 I got the same Lego kit.... time to go make it.

[papanoel]

Went for a quick drive with my father around sunset here in New York City. Took a picture.
oh yeah and i broke the engine cover holder :(


http://i.imgur.com/inlSddL.jpg

[Jonathan]

24061

Went for a quick drive around the block and then came home and shovelled out the driveway. :biggrin:

[DMC5180]

24061

Went for a quick drive around the block and then came home and shovelled out the driveway. :biggrin:

At least your quick around the block didn't involve salt laden streets. With about a foot on the ground here My car's not moving till April unless this seasons early winter leads to an early spring melt.

[pezzonovante88]

24061

Went for a quick drive around the block and then came home and shovelled out the driveway. :biggrin:

How was she in the snow?

[Jonathan]

At least your quick around the block didn't involve salt laden streets. With about a foot on the ground here My car's not moving till April unless this seasons early winter leads to an early spring melt.


How was she in the snow?

Haha, just kidding... no chance I take it out until the Spring. Just having some fun with the camera angle... and my snowblower. I promised someone to get some funny snow/winter pictures with the car for them, but had to limit it to ones where it hasn't moved from hibernation.

[rdarlington]

Modified the DMCH deflector retaining strips by punching two 1/8" holes in them, then pop riveted them in place.

https://store.delorean.com/p-10405-deflector-retaining-strip-pair.aspx

I'll probably go back out later tonight and re-install the deflectors after giving them a good scrub.

-Bob

[DMC5180]

Modified the DMCH deflector retaining strips by punching two 1/8" holes in them, then pop riveted them in place.

https://store.delorean.com/p-10405-deflector-retaining-strip-pair.aspx

I'll probably go back out later tonight and re-install the deflectors after giving them a good scrub.

-Bob

From what I can see in the picture, they provide six one way retaining washers. One for each stud so didn't necessarily need to drill and pop rivet them. However, the ones I have are from PJ GRADY 20 years ago. They had the two holes in them for pop rivets.

[rdarlington]

Oh how I wish they were included, but sadly they were not. They're in the picture but they were not in the box.

I tried drilling but HSS bits on very hard stainless was a no go. The car was parked in front of the milling machine so I didn't want to turn that on (would've used a tungsten carbide end mill if the car was rolled out in the driveway). So I just clamped down my big punch and found a 1/8" punch/die and popped a couple holes.

Technically this is my second set. The first set is what taught me they need to either be held down with rivets or a 2nd person. The reason for the 2nd set is that on the 3rd stud, I just twisted it right off. Really crappy weld. DMCH sent me another one right out and now I know to be a lot more careful.

-Bob

[rdarlington]

Ordered a set of front lowering springs from John Hervey, as well as a couple other little things.

[DMC5180]

Ordered a set of front lowering springs from John Hervey, as well as a couple other little things.

Over the phone or online? Let us know how that experience goes.



Regarding the retaining strips, it's to bad you didn't get everything you were supposed to in the kit. Next time Order from DMCMW, Julee will make sure ALL items are included that are supposed to be there or at the very least contact you and tell you there is a problem or delay. Best Customer Service on the planet.

[pezzonovante88]

Haha, just kidding... no chance I take it out until the Spring. Just having some fun with the camera angle... and my snowblower. I promised someone to get some funny snow/winter pictures with the car for them, but had to limit it to ones where it hasn't moved from hibernation.

Damn! I was pretty taken aback when you said you drove it out there. haha

[rdarlington]

Over the phone or online? Let us know how that experience goes.



John has always been prompt with getting my parts out the door and to me for the most part. I think most of us have a story about the guy. So far he's still squarely in my "would buy from him again" category. The only issue I had which I admit is minor, was when I was due my core charges back. It took two emails and a month from the time he received them. I was very clear in my emails that he should take the time to inspect them to make sure they were able to be rebuilt and I have the feeling on that 2nd email he just went ahead and issued the refund without looking. That's not what I wanted, but it was him just taking care of business to keep a customer. He and I click on the phone. We have an interest in what the other guy on the other end of the phone is into so it's always fun.

-Bob

[DMC5180]

Glad you eventually got your core charge back. I was not so fortunate. He still owes me $160 core charge refund from a transaction 5 yrs ago. I wrote it off long ago and chalk it up to one of life's learning lessons.

Life Goes On

[rdarlington]

Reinforced the roof near the torsion bar brackets and noticed that the passenger side is definitely rubbing on the door hinge. Will figure that out tomorrow.

I'm a ham operator and got past drilling holes in cars many years ago:
24110

24111

A little RTV squeezing out:
24112

The only document I could really find with a particular bolt size said to go with a 1/4"-20 that was 4 inches long. That's about 2 inches too long:
24113

[Ryan S.]

Passed smog today. :yesss::yesss:

[vwdmc16]

Congrats Ryan, Still running like a top with cleaned injectors?

[Ryan S.]

So far so good. However, I am hearing some thin metal vibrating noises, like an aluminum foil vibration sound from passenger side of the engine bay. This only occurs when I accelerate with cold engine. When engine is warm, I don't hear that. Other than that no problem.

Smog result were very good except high NO ppm result. Still within the passing value, thank god. I am not sure if this is normal for our cars or time for a new catalytic converter, O2 sensor, and etc...


I just got some rebuilt brake calipers, master cylinder, and SS brake hoses. Plan to install them next week unless I get pulled away for end of the year parties. Any words of advice? Thinking about flushing the lines to clear any derbies from hard lines before I start disconnecting calipers, hoses, and mc. I just want to make sure hard lines are not clogged. I expect installation to be straight forward. I hope.:wrenchin::wrenchin:

[Jonathan]

So far so good. However, I am hearing some thin metal vibrating noises, like an aluminum foil vibration sound from passenger side of the engine bay. This only occurs when I accelerate with cold engine. When engine is warm, I don't hear that. Other than that no problem.

Do you have the factory set-up for the cold air intake/three way valve? Or did you swap it out with the cold air only duct? Have a look at the stove bracket on the passenger exhaust manifold and the duct that is connected to it and maybe something will look out of place when you see it.

[Ryan S.]

I have a cold air duct for over 8 months. And that was the first thing I checked but it is in place. Nothing is lose in the engine compartment. Again, I only hear this noise when the engine is cold.

[vwdmc16]

Hmm im not sure what that rattle is either. But it is different than the pinging we heard togther beforeyou got the injectors cleaned?

As fit the brakes, yeah do a full flush first. Suck all the brake fluid you can out of the resivoir with a tube or bulb then refill with new dot4 and flush each corner one at a time. Flush about 3 cups of fluid from each wheel. And always check you never run dry in the master and pull air in.

[Ryan S.]

Definitely not the pinging we heard. Car runs good so I am not going to worry too much about it.
Thanks for your suggestion on brake flushing.

[DeLorean03]

Doesn't the exhaust crossover pipe have a metal shield over it? If so, it could be that making the noise ... ?

[DMCMW Dave]

Doesn't the exhaust crossover pipe have a metal shield over it? If so, it could be that making the noise ... ?

Pretty common problem. The shields rust around the attaching bolts and get loose. In a pinch a couple of well-placed hose clamps will quiet it down.

[MML]

Took it for a drive, first time in two months as the weather was crap. Started up first time, drove to the petrol station, put 20 quid's worth in, drove round for an hour. No problems at all.

Except for that goddamn creaky dash.

[jackb]

Finished installing the rebuilt brakes the other day, bled them yesterday, and jumped the battery and finally took it for a test spin today.
The new brakes work well, but I need to tighten the parking brake calipers some more.

[vwdmc16]

Drove her to work, installed new front signals and outer drop window seal on the dr side during my lunch hr.

[Bill6298]

Found a nice crack in my coolant bottle. My plastic radiator tanks are okay for now though.

24152

[jackb]

Bought/installed a new battery.
Removed the passenger door upper panel to test a replacement mirror I got a while back (the one on it dow does not move, the new one works in all directions)
Sat in line for 45+ minutes to get it emissions tested, then another 1+ hour at the DMV to get it titled and registered.

[DrJeff]

I drained the coolant which looked very good (after searching everywhere for my 8mm square drive socket) with no buildup or crud in the pipes. PB Blasted the bolts on the Y-pipe in the VOD (not expecting a problem but taking every precaution). I pulled out the sway-bar (really surprised at how much the front suspension moves without the sway-bar in place!) and pulled out the fans/cowling. I stopped right before pulling out the radiator.

[chris williams]

Changed one mirror to one of Tom's extended convex mirrors and got the window back on it's track :aniclap: Both on drivers side, applied plasters to back of hand! Can anyone remember where the layout for the mirror wiring is please as mine all seem to work back to front! (from the back of the switch) thanks

[DMC5180]

Changed one mirror to one of Tom's extended convex mirrors and got the window back on it's track :aniclap: Both on drivers side, applied plasters to back of hand! Can anyone remember where the layout for the mirror wiring is please as mine all seem to work back to front! (from the back of the switch) thanks


Switch wiring is in PDF here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&p=48244&viewfull=1#post48244

[chris williams]

Thank You.
Chris

[Tillsy]

After spending almost the entire solid year working on my Custom Centre Console (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8822-My-Custom-Centre-Console), yesterday I disassembled down to the valley and did the following:


Tightened up my silicone coolant hoses (have been bedding in for a year now)
Installed new silicone vacuum hoses
Installed new stainless braided FV fuel lines

[Bill6298]

Installed new stainless braided FV fuel lines


Which vendor's line did you install?

[Tillsy]

Which vendor's line did you install?

SpecialT - the only source I knew of for these two particular lines when I bought them ages back.

It was later that I read a post somewhere that DMCMW have them - always frustrating to always hear via word of mouth what they sell, since they have no website or catalogue showing all the stuff they sell above and beyond the DMC website, I should have checked.

Quality seems good though.

[Bill6298]

SpecialT - the only source I knew of for these two particular lines when I bought them ages back.

It was later that I read a post somewhere that DMCMW have them - always frustrating to always hear via word of mouth what they sell, since they have no website or catalogue showing all the stuff they sell above and beyond the DMC website, I should have checked.

Quality seems good though.

I had no idea DMCMW sold them. DPI has one (at least part of a kit) although I never could find a picture on their website. I stumbled upon a picture last night on OverlandMan's blog. http://dmctx.blogspot.com/2013/12/fuel-system-rebuild-phase-2-cont.html It looks like DPI uses a regular hose and clamps to deal with the return side of the FV. How does John's look? Do you have a picture to show how it installed? I am curious how the return side connects.

It is frustrating that there are possibly good parts to consider and the information isn't available or hard to find. I guess this is a good problem to have. It's nice to have so many vendors improving parts these days.

[Delorean Industries]

I had no idea DMCMW sold them. DPI has one (at least part of a kit) although I never could find a picture on their website. I stumbled upon a picture last night on OverlandMan's blog. http://dmctx.blogspot.com/2013/12/fuel-system-rebuild-phase-2-cont.html It looks like DPI uses a regular hose and clamps to deal with the return side of the FV. How does John's look? Do you have a picture to show how it installed? I am curious how the return side connects.

It is frustrating that there are possibly good parts to consider and the information isn't available or hard to find. I guess this is a good problem to have. It's nice to have so many vendors improving parts these days.

We run a small section of aeroquip line between the valve and compression fitting on the return line. Basically the only way to do it.

[Rich]

... I pulled out the sway-bar (really surprised at how much the front suspension moves without the sway-bar in place!) .....

Sounds like your reference is to the lack of fore-aft rigidity in the front suspension when the sway bar is out of the picture. And it's normal for a suspension like this one. Unlike in many setups the sway bar performs two functions in a D. The anti-roll function is the less important of those two functions with the primary one being that of a radius arm to the lower link. The upper control arm does the other half of that longitudinal location work.

This is one of the reasons that the condition of a D's crumple tube or subframe is important as well as the recall kit and proper fastening and locknuts/washers on the sway bar bushing mounts to the crumple tube.

[Bill6298]

We run a small section of aeroquip line between the valve and compression fitting on the return line. Basically the only way to do it.

I was surprised that side of the FV was included in the kit in the first place. It does not look as straightforward to reproduce as the other lines.

OverlandMan's install looks great. I like the red as well. He's not going to be worrying about fire anymore. :thumbup:

[Delorean Industries]

I will update our site shortly and include HD pictures of our line kits and all of the available colors. The kit does include all 13 lines.

[DrJeff]

- Installed DeloreanNW fans in the cowling (after cleaning the cowling)
- Removed the radiator
- Inspected the condenser (looks surprisingly good - but some corrosion on the connections)
- Removed the Y-pipe and coolant return lines
- PB Blasted the water pump bolts

[Tillsy]

Installed stainless braided clutch bleeder line.

Uninstalled it an hour later!

[DrJeff]

Installed stainless braided clutch bleeder line.

Uninstalled it an hour later!

Any chance it leaked at the connection to the slave?

UPDATE: No worries - I see the other thread where you've got the clutch bleed/response problem.

[Tillsy]

Any chance it leaked at the connection to the slave?

Leaked here-ish...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24197&d=1388843569

[jawn101]

Leaked here-ish...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24197&d=1388843569

Weird, you're not the first person I've heard of having problems with this. None of the other local guys here seem to though, myself included. Seems like it should be a foolproof part, but hey.

As for myself, I took 2100 out for a drive yesterday. First time in a couple weeks actually, as we were busy with family/holiday stuff. But the weather here has been unstoppably awesome - how could I resist??

[jackb]

Today I finally installed a third brake light. I've been procrastinating this easy job for far too long.
I believe it from a corvette originally. I bought it a while back from I think another member here.

The power wire comes from the right brake light, with a 5 amp fuse in the line, up the rear quarter panel, and behind the plastic vent thing, then out and through the louvre into the light.
The ground wire is grounded on a bolt at the bottom back end of the quarter panel.
I put quick disconnects on the wires close to the light, but behind the plastic vent thing above the rear window. It is a very clean installation.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/6B476290-3339-40EC-8A73-3D387578F70F_zpsqeo6kv0w.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/9C3C79BF-8313-48D9-9631-214E17AF415B_zpsfb8im81c.jpg

[JohnZ]

Weird, you're not the first person I've heard of having problems with this. None of the other local guys here seem to though, myself included. Seems like it should be a foolproof part, but hey.

I'm about to install that very part! Should I worry?? I purchased it from England Delorean Eurotec....

:paranoid:

[Jonathan]

Today I finally installed a third brake light. I've been procrastinating this easy job for far too long.
I believe it from a corvette originally. I bought it a while back from I think another member here.

That looks great Jack!

What are our options to buy this sort of light or kit for our cars? I looked quickly on most of the main vendor websites I know of and it looks like only Toby shows a third brake light kit for sale. Not enough information on it to say whether it is the same though.

Any chance you could post a parts list for your Corvette light or a how-to for putting it in? Thanks.

[BABIS]

I'm about to install that very part! Should I worry?? I purchased it from England Delorean Eurotec....

:paranoid:

not that very part ^_^ this is a clutch slave bleeder (sold only by Special-T). You recently bought the stainless braided line which connects the master to the slave cylinder..

[jawn101]

I'm about to install that very part! Should I worry?? I purchased it from England Delorean Eurotec....

:paranoid:

It seems like all the problem parts have been from one vendor, and not that one... :)

[DrJeff]

- Installed DeloreanNW fans in the cowling (after cleaning the cowling)
- Removed the radiator
- Inspected the condenser (looks surprisingly good - but some corrosion on the connections)
- Removed the Y-pipe and coolant return lines
- PB Blasted the water pump bolts

- Got the water pump out (no problem at all with the bolts) although I had to cut the short hoses. Big clues here about re-installation of the water pump & y-pipe & coolant return pipe => as a unit pre-plumbed.

... Pump looks in good condition. Now I just need to decide how to prep and clean everything?

[rdarlington]

Today, so far nothing. Yesterday I went to a "coffee and cars" thing down in Santa Fe, NM area. Talked shop with a Ferrari guy who was impressed I knew about his fuel injection system. Lots of detail. I mentioned mine has the same fuel injection but for 6 cylinders and his eyes lit up. He was so excited for me to show him my D. There were a couple of old Aston Martins, a modern Bently (not interesting at all, looks like a Chrysler 300), bunches of 'vettes including the new one. Great time with mostly only car guys around. No fingerprints!

That was the best my car ever looked, so what did I do when I got home? Ripped the center console out to do an LED conversion of the AC panel. I'm now calling this the $400 light bulb job. $15 in LEDs and 4 hours for me to figure out that there really was nothing wrong when I saw no power at my hazard light switch while testing. Turn key, the 7 lights come on. Push headlight button and it lights up. Hazard light would not light up so I was chasing wires, tracking them around on bad scans of the wiring diagram, and eventually realized that out of all 9 bulbs on that cluster, this is the only one controlled by the dimmer/rheostat on the console. Hook that back up and everything is fine. Argh! Oh wait, there's more. The crimp connector pulled off the blue wire running to the dimmer and I try to use cheap little vice grips to get it back on because I don't have the right crimp tool for that connector. Yep, pinched my hand and couldn't get the thing off. Had to pry it open with the shift lever because I didn't want to cut the wire. I was stuck for a good minute. Ouch!

So don't do what I did. Just replace the damn crimp connector (which I ended up doing) if a wire pulls out.

My whole right side is sore in ways I've never felt before from leaning over the console and supporting myself for a good long while. Never get old guys!

-Bob

[Kenny_Z]

Went for a drive to get a part for my father's truck. When leaving my parent's house the brake pedal went soft. I only live a mile down the road and she could still stop. I went all over the car. No leaks, no hints of brake fluid, nothing. It was too dark to go digging around in the trunk. I'll check the master tomorrow but it is only 3 years old. It was replaced a month before I bought the car.

[JohnZ]

PHEW! That seemed to me the same part "clutch bleeder line"... ok no worry at all then!

:D

[johnyrottin]

Looked outside...11 inches of snow and -30 degrees. Delorean stays tucked in and sleepy!!!

[Farrar]

Re-installed distributor with new pickup coil in.

Failed to start engine.

[Ryan S.]

Installed Harvey's brake kits. Now my car stops like a normal car. I should have done this long time ago. Replacing brake hoses were pita.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/07/8u8e3y9a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/07/tarase8y.jpg

[yellowmxwheels23]

Installed Harvey's brake kits. Now my car stops like a normal car. I should have done this long time ago. Replacing brake hoses were pita.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/07/8u8e3y9a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/07/tarase8y.jpg

You could tell by the video

[DMC5180]

Did the best possible thing. I DROVE IT In January!!! I've never done that in my 18 years of ownership. Put 50 miles it. A year ago there was 20 inches of snow on the ground. Our 1 significant 5 inch snowfall was in early November. Not much more than flurries since.

Just wanted to look back is on this OLD post I made exactly 2 years ago to today.

It was in the Low 50's and NO snow anywhere. Which was rather unheard of around here for that time of year. Oh how I wish for that to happen again.

[rdarlington]

I'm working on the center console since I have it out of the car. Yesterday I replaced the AC panel decal and the new one looks like a million bucks in comparison (and no, I don't mean all green and wrinkled).

The old AC panel sticker came off but left a lot of sticker gunk behind. I learned a trick a while back for removing the paper backing from acrylic sheets that sat for many years and thought it might help here. Basically I used kerosene to clean off the adhesive and whatever remained from the sticker. Worked like a champ. I then used ordinary soap and water to clean off the kerosene before applying the sticker. The plastic panel was perfectly clear with no residue what so ever on it before the sticker went on.

Here's what it looked like before removing it:
24333

As far as the work today, I am sick of seeing my center console spread out up at the front end. It's just spreading away from the center of the car and nearly hitting my leg when I drive. I saw a fix that works, but I never really liked. Basically the guy used two picture hooks and some picture hanging wire and used the hooks to go over the edge: http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/gallery-TipsTricksMods.htm

Well mine was off to get to the bulbs behind the AC panel (swapped for LEDs last weekend) so I did it right. For about $15 I got two 1" strips of galvanized steel and pop riveted them on. I have a big metal punch, but you could also use a drill to make a bunch of 1/8" holes in the steel strip. The vinyl peeled back fairly easily. I did have to use pliers to get it going but after that it was mostly done with my fingers.

It's hard to tell from the angle, but the side with the metal strip is nowhere near as flapped out as the other side:
24334
24335
24336
24337
24338

This is a view of the pop rivets going in from behind the vinyl. The foam is in good shape and shows no sign of falling apart so I'll leave this stuff alone:
24339

Once I finish the other side tomorrow, I will use my 3M contact adhesive (#90) and get the vinyl put back where it belongs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm working on the center console since I have it out of the car. Yesterday I replaced the AC panel decal and the new one looks like a million bucks in comparison (and no, I don't mean all green and wrinkled).

The old AC panel sticker came off but left a lot of sticker gunk behind. I learned a trick a while back for removing the paper backing from acrylic sheets that sat for many years and thought it might help here. Basically I used kerosene to clean off the adhesive and whatever remained from the sticker. Worked like a champ. I then used ordinary soap and water to clean off the kerosene before applying the sticker. The plastic panel was perfectly clear with no residue what so ever on it before the sticker went on.

Here's what it looked like before removing it:
24333


Always remove and install that panel faceplate carefully before pulling the center console. You pull the center console on each side a little so that new decal does not hit it and get lifted like the old one. Don't try to trim any excess decal with a knife (ask me how I know). I installed a self tapping screw on my passenger side console (up high where you don't see it) to hold it closer.

[jackb]

Today I realized that when I flushed my brake fluid the other day, I had used a bottle of DOT3 fluid. Why I even had a bottle of DOT3 in the garage in the first place is beyond me.
I had only cleaned out the center section of the reservoir before I had bled them anyway, so this time I removed the brake reservoir and cleaned the entire inside. I dropped ~30 small nuts in it and shook it really well to break the crud off the walls, then reinstalled and filled it.
Tomorrow I will flush the DOT3 fluid out of the brake and clutch circuits.

[jackb]

That looks great Jack!

What are our options to buy this sort of light or kit for our cars? I looked quickly on most of the main vendor websites I know of and it looks like only Toby shows a third brake light kit for sale. Not enough information on it to say whether it is the same though.

Any chance you could post a parts list for your Corvette light or a how-to for putting it in? Thanks.

After some research, I found the light I used is from a 86-90 C4 Corvette. GM part # 918411. Discontinued by GM, but still available online (there are a few on ebay right now).

EdR5150 goes into detail with pictures on his blog page: http://www.16908.info/?p=1161
I did the same exact thing, with two exceptions: I used smaller wire connectors from the light to my extended wire that ran behind the black plastic thing so it is barely visible, and I had to drill three holes in the louvre (two for the bolts to secure the light, and one for the wires to pass to the bottom). I measured and marked the light holes onto a piece of cardboard, then laid that on the louvre (make 100% certain it's centered!) before marking through it and drilling the holes. Start small with a pilot hole and go bigger as required.

The only reason I procrastinated so long was I was afraid it would ruin the lines of the car and I would not like the results, so I was reluctant to drill the holes. I finally went for it, and I'm very happy with the results. Go for it.

The key is finding the right light to use. The 86-90 C4 Corvette light beats all in my opinion. It looks factory. Other lights can look to blocky/out of place, and others can look obviously home-made. (Looking like it came on the car from the factory was important to me)

[vwdmc16]

Agreed, I love my Corvette light too, I have to point it out to some people as they think it is stock too. I have a good write up with pic on how I installed mine in my thread below. Post 221 pg 23

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3763-The-Restoration-of-1768/page23

[rdarlington]

I finished the reinforcement of the center console so it doesn't spread out and hit my leg anymore and also reinforced and squared up the far back side of it where it was bending away from the plastic tray by my elbow. This was done similarly by pop riveting an aluminum strip along the edge.

Pulled the seats and went to town with Leatherique rejuvenator oil. They're in my small closet under the stairs with a space heater to keep em toasty for a day or two while the stuff soaks in.

While the seats and center console are out, I vacuumed the carpet real well and am considering adding some dynamat or equivalent material under the carpet since the hard stuff has already been removed.

-Bob

[vwdmc16]

Fixed a rattle that had been getting bad on the passenger side. Turned out the front speaker was just about to fall off. Also rewired the foot well lighting I started a while back. Still need to install the light on the driver side

[Bitsyncmaster]

Agreed, I love my Corvette light too, I have to point it out to some people as they think it is stock too. I have a good write up with pic on how I installed mine in my thread below. Post 221 pg 23

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3763-The-Restoration-of-1768/page23

I also had a write up on the old .com forum but added this short one on the new .org.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4267-Custom-made-LED-third-brake-light&highlight=brake+light

[Lenny]

That looks great Jack!

What are our options to buy this sort of light or kit for our cars? I looked quickly on most of the main vendor websites I know of and it looks like only Toby shows a third brake light kit for sale. Not enough information on it to say whether it is the same though.

Any chance you could post a parts list for your Corvette light or a how-to for putting it in? Thanks.

Put me in the list for wanting a part number or specific model year of corvette. I like it.

[Jacko]

When I get 4915 back I will install the Corvette 3rd brake light I bought some time
ago. I notice on Ebay there is a Corvette 3rd brake light Pulser Module that makes the light pulse
for a short time when the brakes are applied. ($59.95) Any one have this? Seems like a good
idea to me ... thoughts?

[DavidProehl]

Replaced rear speakers and added an FM modulator for AUX into the Craig. Ran 3.5 mm input plug into the glove box for easy concealment and was able to use the existing latch hole so no drilling necessary! Also ran lead wires under the console to feed my sub amp (yet to be purchased). Put the interior back together. No more scratchy sound that cuts in and out!

One casualty: my power antenna. Apparently after all the testing turning the radio on and off my antenna decided it no longer wants to go down. Been reading the power antenna thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?423-Replacing-Rear-Power-Antenna), with the Legacy LN46 no longer available, I'll likely go with the recommendation of the Metra 44-PW22.

[Rich_NYS]

Today I loaded mine on a trailer and brought it home. :yesss:

Let the rolling restoration begin!

[rdarlington]

I replaced the drivers side mirror with one of Tom's heated and extended convex mirrors:
http://www.deloreana.com/

I'm a happy customer!

Also, I pulled out my buzzer/chime box and figured out how that bracket goes back in and am looking for a replacement. It's definitely sick and sounds terrible like the buzzer came loose inside. I pulled the connector about a week after I got "Sweet Dee" because the damn thing just randomly started making noise while I was driving. The bracket came loose when I pulled the cable. Well, the seats are still out soaking with Leatherique and figured it was a good time to try to get it back in there. It fits and feels right even though I can't see it.

-Bob

[jawn101]

Found another HW City Hot Wheels at LAX and paid $3.50 for it.

[ccurzio]

Drove it to Starbucks and back. That's about the furthest I can go before the brakes start giving out, but I've got to keep the fuel circulating through the system every few weeks. :(

[rdarlington]

Replaced the hood trim (top edge) with a new part from DMCH. It looks and stays on better than the old stuff.

Put my drivers side door back together after the mirror swap. It works great.

-Bob

[DrJeff]

I replaced the two AC idler bearings. One was making a lot of noise and with the stethoscope was grinding pretty loud. The other was quiet. The quiet one turned out to be very close to seizing.

[Tillsy]

After spending almost the entire solid year working on my Custom Centre Console (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8822-My-Custom-Centre-Console), yesterday I disassembled down to the valley and did the following:


Tightened up my silicone coolant hoses (have been bedding in for a year now)
Installed new silicone vacuum hoses
Installed new stainless braided FV fuel lines



Haven't done much recently - basically reassembled, cleaned a heap of things, installed a Christmas present DMCflux sent me, and done lots and lots of driving. The incredibly hot weather we've had recently (this past week being 40+'c every day) has been a little demotivating.

That said, I have been doing some more design work on some other upgrades I've been planning for a while so I might start a couple of them soon.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Replaced the hood trim (top edge) with a new part from DMCH. It looks and stays on better than the old stuff.-Bob

I used RTV on the inside edge of that trim to keep my new one in place.

[Hokie]

Tightened the coolant line clamps underneath the car after I noticed a small leak.

[Rich_NYS]

Door struts, they doors stay open without a prop now!

[Hokie]

Door struts, they doors stay open without a prop now!

I need those - mine are not working too good in this cold!

[DMC5180]

I need those - mine are not working too good in this cold!

I wouldn't worry too much about struts this time of year. They just don't work that well in cold temps. When spring rolls around with warmer temps and they still don't do the job , it's time to change them.

Nothing worse than droopy doors on a Delorean. It's the first thing other people see when out and about getting gas, parking and what have you. It's my biggest pet peeve. If you can afford to fill the gas tank you can afford to put fresh struts on every few years as needed but that's just me. Okay enough with the rant.

[jawn101]

I wouldn't worry too much about struts this time of year. They just don't work that well in cold temps. When spring rolls around with warmer temps and they still don't do the job , it's time to change them.

Nothing worse than droopy doors on a Delorean. It's the first thing other people see when out and about getting gas, parking and what have you. It's my biggest pet peeve. If you can afford to fill the gas tank you can afford to put fresh struts on every few years as needed but that's just me. Okay enough with the rant.

:aniclap:

The struts just plain don't last. But they also don't work well in the cooler temps. But I'm with you, if it's prime driving season and my doors don't go and stay up properly my first order of business is new struts. On my third set already... in only three years...

As for me, I took a late afternoon spin today - the temperatures here have been awesome this winter (though we are officially in a drought now) so it just seemed right.

Got my gas tank to down around 1/4 and started having the bucking/loss of power under heavy load again. That means I'm finally low enough to pull my new combo unit out and make sure it's extended all the way to the bottom of the tank. And maybe add a check valve while I'm at it, though I (knock on wood) have yet to see any issues whatsoever with that.

I also need a new battery.

[rdarlington]

I used RTV on the inside edge of that trim to keep my new one in place.

Whatever DMCH is selling, it seems to have a bead of adhesive at the bottom of the edging. I poked it with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver and it's something sticky.

[NightFlyer]

:aniclap:

The struts just plain don't last.

I'm still running the stock/OEM struts that came on my car from the factory/Dunmurry - they hold the doors up just fine, although the driver's side does require a manual assist to reach full open, even in ideal temperatures :smile:

[DMC5180]

Got my gas tank to down around 1/4 and started having the bucking/loss of power under heavy load again. That means I'm finally low enough to pull my new combo unit out and make sure it's extended all the way to the bottom of the tank. And maybe add a check valve while I'm at it, though I (knock on wood) have yet to see any issues whatsoever with that.

You don't need to pull the pump for that, unless you are planning to do a condition inspection of the tank. Just look through the capped off sending unit whole. Use a light and inspection mirror, if need be.

I'm curious, do have a Hot Air deflector Kit installed?

[Michael]

Whatever DMCH is selling, it seems to have a bead of adhesive at the bottom of the edging. I poked it with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver and it's something sticky.

Its probably door edge guard. Universal, cut to any length, and avaliable at almost any parts store.

[jawn101]

You don't need to pull the pump for that, unless you are planning to do a condition inspection of the tank. Just look through the capped off sending unit whole. Use a light and inspection mirror, if need be.

I'm curious, do have a Hot Air deflector Kit installed?

Good idea to look through the sending unit hole. The tank is clean as a whistle, guaranteed... but I do think based on another thread I started months ago that the pump probably just compressed during installation and isn't able to suck up the fuel at the bottom.

No hot air deflector installed, I was planning to get/make one at some point though... why?

[DMC5180]

Good idea to look through the sending unit hole. The tank is clean as a whistle, guaranteed... but I do think based on another thread I started months ago that the pump probably just compressed during installation and isn't able to suck up the fuel at the bottom.

No hot air deflector installed, I was planning to get/make one at some point though... why?

I don't use that module. From what I can see, it is fully extended when you go to insert it. Meaning it should be Taller than the tank depth. When you install it you should be pushing the top down compressing the unit height since the sump is sitting on the bottom. It would be different if for some reason you had to collapse the unit to install it then expect it to re-extend once in place.

Just curious on the deflector. For some reason I thought you might have one.

[jawn101]

I don't use that module. From what I can see, it is fully extended when you go to insert it. Meaning it should be Taller than the tank depth. When you install it you should be pushing the top down compressing the unit height since the sump is sitting on the bottom. It would be different if for some reason you had to collapse the unit to install it then expect it to re-extend once in place.

Just curious on the deflector. For some reason I thought you might have one.

Yep you're right about the pump. It was a speculation that it might have gotten overcompressed and then not re-extended after installation. However, that is not the case (your idea to pull the plug for inspection was genius and made the job very quick) - the pump is fully extended and resting on the bottom of the tank. There is about 1/4" of gas right around the pump area (so the lower baffle is about 1/4" submerged) and the gauge is reading just a tick below 1/4 full.

That said, what else could possibly be causing the "collapsed pickup hose" symptoms?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yep you're right about the pump. It was a speculation that it might have gotten overcompressed and then not re-extended after installation. However, that is not the case (your idea to pull the plug for inspection was genius and made the job very quick) - the pump is fully extended and resting on the bottom of the tank. There is about 1/4" of gas right around the pump area (so the lower baffle is about 1/4" submerged) and the gauge is reading just a tick below 1/4 full.

That said, what else could possibly be causing the "collapsed pickup hose" symptoms?

Are you saying you only have a 1/4 inch of gas in your tank?

[jawn101]

Are you saying you only have a 1/4 inch of gas in your tank?

Around the pump area, yeah. I know the tank has some "peaks and valleys", but I assume that's the lowest part.

Edit: I'm going to go back out there with a ruler and check. Because now you've got me thinking "uh-oh, Dave's gonna tell me that's ridiculously low and the gauge is the problem, not the pump" :)

Double edit: OK, so this picture was kind of a bitch to take, so forgive the iffy focus. It looks like there's more like 1" (maybe a little more, since it kept evaporating off my measuring devices before I could get a perfect reading) of gas down there. Bad perspective from above I guess.

[NightFlyer]

Double edit: OK, so this picture was kind of a bitch to take, so forgive the iffy focus. It looks like there's more like 1" (maybe a little more, since it kept evaporating off my measuring devices before I could get a perfect reading) of gas down there. Bad perspective from above I guess.

Are those the feed/return hoses pictured, with one being pinched under the pump retaining clamp? Hard to tell. If so, it appears that there are some depressions/compressions within the hoses that could be impeding your fuel flow. I also wouldn't be sure as to the point of pinching the hose under the clamp. I'm hoping that I'm wrong and it's merely the wiring harness that I'm seeing in the pic...

EDIT: Also, are you sure that you have the clamp installed correctly, and that it's not slightly lifting the base of the pump away from the flange of the tank upon tightening it? I only ask because others on the forum had incorrectly installed the clamp causing a lift-away problem, although usually you'd smell fuel or experience a visible leak under such a condition. But it's worth checking none-the-less.

Just trying to rule out everything else before declaring the pump itself (likely in the housing plastic) bad/defective.

[jawn101]

Are those the feed/return hoses pictured, with one being pinched under the pump retaining clamp? Hard to tell. If so, it appears that there are some depressions/compressions within the hoses that could be impeding your fuel flow. I also wouldn't be sure as to the point of pinching the hose under the clamp. I'm hoping that I'm wrong and it's merely the wiring harness that I'm seeing in the pic...

Yep, just the wires. And they're not pinched, just routed. They're just laying there and a breeze could shift them if it decided to.

[NightFlyer]

Yep, just the wires. And they're not pinched, just routed. They're just laying there and a breeze could shift them if it decided to.

OK, well, I'm forced to conclude that the pump housing has failed (a crack in it) and is introducing air into the system when the tank level gets low enough. I think we've effectively eliminated all other possibilities.

Only thing left to do is pull the pump and start inspecting / taking it apart. Hopefully you can find the cause and remedy it without having to buy a new pump.

Best of luck - I really hope you get it resolved :smile:

[Bitsyncmaster]

What is the measurement to the top of the tank? So 1 inch of fuel shows 1/4 tank on the gauge. So that would say your full tank is 4 inches.

[jawn101]

OK, well, I'm forced to conclude that the pump housing has failed (a crack in it) and is introducing air into the system when the tank level gets low enough. I think we've effectively eliminated all other possibilities.

Only thing left to do is pull the pump and start inspecting / taking it apart. Hopefully you can find the cause and remedy it without having to buy a new pump.

Best of luck - I really hope you get it resolved :smile:

Possible, if discouraging. I emailed Dave S directly and asked if he has any ideas as well. If I do pull the pump and find that it's cracked, what's a fuel-safe repair route? I have all manner of super glues, epoxies, JB weld, etc on hand but have no idea if any of that is fuel safe.


What is the measurement to the top of the tank? So 1 inch of fuel shows 1/4 tank on the gauge. So that would say your full tank is 4 inches.

I don't know - I don't even know how I'd measure that! I could try and get creative with a tape measure or something. How tall *should* it be?

[NightFlyer]

Possible, if discouraging. I emailed Dave S directly and asked if he has any ideas as well. If I do pull the pump and find that it's cracked, what's a fuel-safe repair route? I have all manner of super glues, epoxies, JB weld, etc on hand but have no idea if any of that is fuel safe.

If the casing is cracked, I'd personally try melting the polymer back together with a soldering iron. You can even use plastic wire ties as a 'solder' with which to fill the cracks with new polymer. Some DIY'ers refer to the technique as 'plastic soldering' or 'plastic welding' - you can search the terms on YouTube to see videos visualizing what I'm attempting to explain in words.


I don't know - I don't even know how I'd measure that! I could try and get creative with a tape measure or something. How tall *should* it be?

See my post on the other thread - maybe we should try to move the posts on this thread over to the other thread. My bad - I should have just responded on the other thread :bang:

[DMCMW Dave]

There is about 1/4" of gas right around the pump area (so the lower baffle is about 1/4" submerged) and the gauge is reading just a tick below 1/4 full.

That said, what else could possibly be causing the "collapsed pickup hose" symptoms?

I agree - if there is really only 1/4" of gas in the tank, the solution is "you need more gas". Make sure that the float isn't hanging on the ground wire in the tank, if it does that you will never read the bottom of the tank. Take out the dummy plug and see if the float is laying on the bottom of the tank. You can move the float arm through its entire range though the sender hole.

Lift the unit out of the tank and check the gauge reading with the float arm in various positions. CAUTION - there is a huge time delay on the float reaction to avoid seeing the needle flop around as you speed up and slow down. This resets every time you turn the key off and on. ALSO you need to realize that the compensation circuit is powered by the pump source, so simply turning on the key may not update the float reading. The Pump has to be running i.e. RPM relay on.

[DMC5180]

The best way to Dip fuel the level is with a long wood dowel, or anything bare wood for wet / dry referencing like a wood ruler or yard stick. Sometimes Old School works the best.

[jawn101]

I agree - if there is really only 1/4" of gas in the tank, the solution is "you need more gas". Make sure that the float isn't hanging on the ground wire in the tank, if it does that you will never read the bottom of the tank. Take out the dummy plug and see if the float is laying on the bottom of the tank. You can move the float arm through its entire range though the sender hole.

Lift the unit out of the tank and check the gauge reading with the float arm in various positions. CAUTION - there is a huge time delay on the float reaction to avoid seeing the needle flop around as you speed up and slow down. This resets every time you turn the key off and on. ALSO you need to realize that the compensation circuit is powered by the pump source, so simply turning on the key may not update the float reading. The Pump has to be running i.e. RPM relay on.

Thanks, Dave. I'll give this a try tomorrow. The float is not hanging on the static wire, that much I can see and am certain of. There's more like an inch or slightly more in the tank, it was just tough to tell.


The best way to Dip fuel the level is with a long wood dowel, or anything bare wood for wet / dry referencing like a wood ruler or yard stick. Sometimes Old School works the best.

Good thinking. I used a length of threaded metal rod, but some wood is much smarter.

[rdarlington]

I installed one of these Metra 44-PW22 antennas:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEUYO/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_3

I had to punch an additional hole in the mounting bracket to accommodate the drain tube as this is flipped around when compared to the original. This required removing the original antenna relay. Originally I figured I'd just cut the relay out and solder direct to the 3 wires with the same color but that didn't work. I very carefully soldered the wires back to the relay attached to the antenna and it still didn't work. Well, I found out why. There was an in-line fuse on that red power wire running to the relay that was blown.

It's possible I blew the fuse while bypassing the relay and trying to use the original, but more likely it was blown from the previous antenna failing.

I also wired in one of these gizmos and so far it's *freakin awesome*:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_2

I spliced it in where the red wire was going to the original antenna relay, and used the screw for the relay as my ground point. Works like a champ. I also bought this so that I can mount the line-in jack into the bottom of my ashtray, although after thinking about it I'm not really sure that's where I want it:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B01AHS/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I'm afraid I'll elbow the connector too hard or it will just be in the way so I have the wires neatly tucked on the parcel shelf.

-Bob

[DrJeff]

I disconnected the Condenser and flushed it with mineral spirits until it ran clear. Surprising how much brown guck came out - which I presume was the oil in the AC system that got trapped in the condenser. The condenser showed signs that someone had tried to tighten the hose connections - the condenser pipes right at the connections was twisted just slightly. They obviously cranked on the hose connection, but didn't put a wrench on the condenser end (to counter the torque) so it twisted. Thankfully it looks like the condenser is in good condition. The AC leak is almost for sure at the hub near the accumulator - given the oil deposits - but that's for later.

[jawn101]

Troubleshot and ultimately removed the new combo unit assembly. Full details on the saga are here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8085-Hot-start-problem-resolved-due-to-failed-check-valve-in-the-DMCH-fuel-pump&p=131459&viewfull=1#post131459

Progress! But she's off the road for right now...

[DavidProehl]

I installed one of these Metra 44-PW22 antennas:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEUYO/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_3

I had to punch an additional hole in the mounting bracket to accommodate the drain tube as this is flipped around when compared to the original. This required removing the original antenna relay. Originally I figured I'd just cut the relay out and solder direct to the 3 wires with the same color but that didn't work. I very carefully soldered the wires back to the relay attached to the antenna and it still didn't work. Well, I found out why. There was an in-line fuse on that red power wire running to the relay that was blown.

It's possible I blew the fuse while bypassing the relay and trying to use the original, but more likely it was blown from the previous antenna failing.

I also wired in one of these gizmos and so far it's *freakin awesome*:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_2

I spliced it in where the red wire was going to the original antenna relay, and used the screw for the relay as my ground point. Works like a champ. I also bought this so that I can mount the line-in jack into the bottom of my ashtray, although after thinking about it I'm not really sure that's where I want it:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B01AHS/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I'm afraid I'll elbow the connector too hard or it will just be in the way so I have the wires neatly tucked on the parcel shelf.

-Bob

Bob - I just installed this exact same hardware on my car last week (iSimple FM modulator and Metra antenna). Love both products, and they are both cheap! One question on the FM modulator - if you turn up your volume all the way with the modulator on and nothing playing, do you hear a small amount of noise or is it nearly silent? I get a enough noise to be a little annoying at high volume, though I can't really hear it when music is playing. I'm curious if that noise is the modulator, the radio (I assume you also are rocking a Craig), or other electrical interference I have.

[Bill6298]

Finally got my stuck accumulator bolt off. Letting PB Blaster soak multiple times for 24-48 hours didn't help at first. I went back after 2 weeks and the fitting turned by hand. I was very surprised this afternoon.

[jawn101]

Bob - I just installed this exact same hardware on my car last week (iSimple FM modulator and Metra antenna). Love both products, and they are both cheap! One question on the FM modulator - if you turn up your volume all the way with the modulator on and nothing playing, do you hear a small amount of noise or is it nearly silent? I get a enough noise to be a little annoying at high volume, though I can't really hear it when music is playing. I'm curious if that noise is the modulator, the radio, or other electrical interference I have.

FM modulators *allllways* have some noise on them. I use one to run the Sirius in my Acura, which has a far better electrical system than the D and there's some line noise there as well. Also the volume required is much higher than the CD player to get the same amount of audio. Just my $0.02 :)

[DavidProehl]

FM modulators *allllways* have some noise on them. I use one to run the Sirius in my Acura, which has a far better electrical system than the D and there's some line noise there as well. Also the volume required is much higher than the CD player to get the same amount of audio. Just my $0.02 :)

Yeah, I figured as much. Was hoping that wasn't the case. That is the price I pay for being married to my Craig.

[rdarlington]

Bob - I just installed this exact same hardware on my car last week (iSimple FM modulator and Metra antenna). Love both products, and they are both cheap! One question on the FM modulator - if you turn up your volume all the way with the modulator on and nothing playing, do you hear a small amount of noise or is it nearly silent? I get a enough noise to be a little annoying at high volume, though I can't really hear it when music is playing. I'm curious if that noise is the modulator, the radio (I assume you also are rocking a Craig), or other electrical interference I have.

I adjusted the volume on the unit to about 95% and don't notice any noise when there is nothing attached when it's on. I tried this with both the car on and off (key turned). I haven't scoped it or anything but am still searching for the right sweet spot of volume on my cell phone going into the box before there is clipping. I think the limiting factor is the really crappy 33 year old Asi radio in my car but I just don't want to swap it out with a modern unit.

To combat noise, you can twist the power lines, put a small cap across the lines, or use a quality shielded cable between your iPod/cell phone and the iSimple box. If you're hearing alternator whine, a cap can definitely help with that but you'd probably be better off spending money on better spark plug wires.

-Bob

[DavidProehl]

I adjusted the volume on the unit to about 95% and don't notice any noise when there is nothing attached when it's on. I tried this with both the car on and off (key turned). I haven't scoped it or anything but am still searching for the right sweet spot of volume on my cell phone going into the box before there is clipping. I think the limiting factor is the really crappy 33 year old Asi radio in my car but I just don't want to swap it out with a modern unit.

To combat noise, you can twist the power lines, put a small cap across the lines, or use a quality shielded cable between your iPod/cell phone and the iSimple box. If you're hearing alternator whine, a cap can definitely help with that but you'd probably be better off spending money on better spark plug wires.

-Bob

I'm getting the noise with the car off, so it isn't alternator whine. Here is what it sounds like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xvH2FQiHCo

If you aren't hearing this, then it must be interference from a power source like you said.

[rdarlington]

I'm getting the noise with the car off, so it isn't alternator whine. Here is what it sounds like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xvH2FQiHCo

If you aren't hearing this, then it must be interference from a power source like you said.

Mine definitely doesn't make that noise. I'm set to 87.9MHz and don't have any location stations near there. With the preamp on or off (there's a button for this on the Asi radio) I can hear some noise like static pops and very quiet hiss with the stereo cranked to 11, but nothing like what yours is doing.

-Bob

[Dangermouse]

Found my lost keys !!! Crisis averted :)

[ALEXAKOS]

Found my lost keys !!! Crisis averted :)

Hurray! So where they in the fridge next to the beer? :wave2:

[jawn101]

Drained and cleaned my fuel tank for a second time. Was still very clean from the first time but a small chunk of the old boot had dislodged from somewhere (way at the back, I imagine - where I can't reach)

Unfortunately when I went to grab it, it turned to powder. So I ended up cleaning the whole thing over again. I wish I had arms that were a tiny bit skinnier and a tiny bit longer.

[eagle-co94]

Got a spare set of keys made at Ace for 1729.

Got the passenger door on 1045 to open after it failed to open since last summer. Promptly pulled the battery out and will drop it off for test/charge tomorrow.

[Farrar]

Discovered that I need to buy new louvre struts.

Double checked distributor position.

Installed new ignition module.

Verified fuel.

Failed to start engine.

[Tillsy]

Took the wife for her very first drive in the DeLorean ;)

[Rich_NYS]

Took the wife for her very first drive in the DeLorean ;)

:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Removed the louvre

Replaced the fuel filter

Installed a check valve in the fuel hose

Sat in the running car & reveled in the awesomeness :cool:

[Jonathan]

Removed the louvre

Replaced the fuel filter

Installed a check valve in the fuel hose

Sat in the running car & reveled in the awesomeness :cool:

While listening to which 80's hair band classic??????????????

[Rich_NYS]

While listening to which 80's hair band classic??????????????

I wish! No tunes yet, but when I get the tape deck fixed, I have a cassette ready to go:
24774

Pics from today: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9016-Fun-day-today-%28fuel-filter-change%29

[jackb]

Got my new license plate.

If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph, you're gonna see some...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/F0BEA525-F8F4-498D-AA6F-B5AA38F28BA4_zpsbdtiwobq.jpg

[Rich_NYS]

Got my new license plate.

That's awesome! Not just a little awesome....totally awesome! :cheers:

[NightFlyer]

Got my new license plate.

If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph, you're gonna see some...

SWEET!

Just don't show Chad :tongue2:

[Rich_NYS]

Removed the seats

Removed the console

Removed the subwoofer from the cubby box, found a huge mouse nest in there....takes up the whole cubby.

[Jacko]

Got my new license plate.

If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph, you're gonna see some...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/F0BEA525-F8F4-498D-AA6F-B5AA38F28BA4_zpsbdtiwobq.jpg

Jack, is the 3rd brakelight on your car from a 90's Corvette?
Looks like it could be OEM for the DeLorean. I have one to install when I get my car back.

[DavidProehl]

Got my new license plate.

If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph, you're gonna see some...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/F0BEA525-F8F4-498D-AA6F-B5AA38F28BA4_zpsbdtiwobq.jpg

Nice! I thought most states filtered profanity. How did this get through?

[ALEXAKOS]

Jack, is the 3rd brakelight on your car from a 90's Corvette?
Looks like it could be OEM for the DeLorean. I have one to install when I get my car back.
I can't believe you are still considering new mods for your D Jack:P
Thought it was perfect already.

[Jacko]

I can't believe you are still considering new mods for your D Jack:P
Thought it was perfect already.

You're right Alex, I need help. Is there a self-help group to fight this addiction? I would
join such a group ... but wait! the first thing they would do is take away my credit
cards ... how would I get parts for the D?

[ALEXAKOS]

DD anonymous! (Delorean drivers)

[Rich_NYS]

-Removed remote amp cabling and speaker wires

-Began tracing car alarm wires for removal

-Removed rodent nest & cubby box carpet: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9034-Not-so-pleasant-surprise

[jackb]

Jack, is the 3rd brakelight on your car from a 90's Corvette?
Looks like it could be OEM for the DeLorean. I have one to install when I get my car back.
It's from a 86-90 C4 Corvette.GM part # 918411. Discontinued by GM; I got it on ebay from a member here. They are available online. I was insistent that it look stock, I think this does the job very well.


Nice! I thought most states filtered profanity. How did this get through?
Because it doesn't stand for "Serious Shit":tongue_stick: according to the application. :lol:

[DMCMW Dave]

It's from a 86-90 C4 Corvette.GM part # 918411. Discontinued by GM; I got it on ebay from a member here. They are available online. I was insistent that it look stock, I think this does the job very well.
:

Another good CHMSL is the one from late 90's Chevy Suburban/Tahoe. Also very factory looking and readily available aftermarket.

[sdg3205]

Started it up for the fist time since October and drove it over to a buddies place (with no seats I might add) to make room for 3922, which is about to undergo a few weeks of updates.

[Rich_NYS]

Traced & removed defunct alarm wiring

Removed & washed cargo net

Began fuse box replacement

[Kenny_Z]

Absolutely nothing. She is encased in ice.

http://24.media.tumblr.com/9f1c336e21c086a4a1e26aea718e090c/tumblr_n04nyrn1l41rdjq2mo4_1280.jpg

http://31.media.tumblr.com/66a2714c3b530b7bbd94f384457f8e7f/tumblr_n06k139rPz1rdjq2mo1_1280.jpg

[eagle-co94]

Swapped out the Special T luggage compartment struts that were in 1729 for the used DMC OEM struts from 10077. I was amazed at the difference. Even in today's cool weather they're holding the bonnet up rigidly. Not sure how old the Special T struts were but they barely held the bonnet in place for a second before it started to drop back down.

[refugeefromcalif]

Absolutely nothing. She is encased in ice.

http://24.media.tumblr.com/9f1c336e21c086a4a1e26aea718e090c/tumblr_n04nyrn1l41rdjq2mo4_1280.jpg

http://31.media.tumblr.com/66a2714c3b530b7bbd94f384457f8e7f/tumblr_n06k139rPz1rdjq2mo1_1280.jpg

OUCH!
Like you, my D is an outside car. (My 2 car garage is a Workshop).
My D was covered in snow when I got home yesterday. (I didn't get it's cover on). I didn't take pics...

George

[Dangermouse]

I did:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/30/u5utuvu2.jpg

[JohnZ]

Be careful with your door handles then! You don't want them to snap in two, do you?

:D

[Rich_NYS]

Removed part of the old car alarm

Began steering column bushing replacement

[Michael]

http://31.media.tumblr.com/66a2714c3b530b7bbd94f384457f8e7f/tumblr_n06k139rPz1rdjq2mo1_1280.jpg
Whaaaa whaaat is it hot?

[DeLorean03]

^^^^ No it's cold... damn cold!!

[Mark D]

I've been going strong so far this winter not peeking under the car cover every day. This cold weather is killer though and I've already got the bug to get out and drive the DeLorean. It'll be at least another 2 months before the snow and salt is gone.

I was also looking through some pics from when I restored the frame and chassis parts... Here are a few before and after shots.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24962&d=1391113762
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24963&d=1391113762

[Domi]

Nice job, it's beautiful :thumbup2:

[beernpizzalover]

Hung a '12th Man Flag' on the antenna mast of my D. Already for the big game on Sunday. Go Seahawks!!

[gulwng3]

Painted a large orange #18 on the hood of my D. Go Broncos! :tongue_stick:

Andy

[DMC81]

I've been going strong so far this winter not peeking under the car cover every day. This cold weather is killer though and I've already got the bug to get out and drive the DeLorean. It'll be at least another 2 months before the snow and salt is gone.

I was also looking through some pics from when I restored the frame and chassis parts... Here are a few before and after shots.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24962&d=1391113762
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24963&d=1391113762

Very nice work, did you do a frame off?

[Mark D]

Very nice work, did you do a frame off?

No, but looking back on it now it probably would have made things easier if I did. I left the frame attached to the body and took pretty much the whole chassis apart. I spent about a year and a half from start to finish disassembling everything, plating and powder coating parts, painting the frame, installing new radiator, hoses, fuel lines, brakes, shocks, springs, bushings etc. and then putting it all back together.

Oh, and thanks for the compliment :-)

[Rich_NYS]

Mark D, your work looks awesome....I might stop posting my pics after seeing that! :jawdrop:

[Mark D]

Thanks again :-)

And I'd love to see more pics of your restoration. It's a really rewarding experience to do all that work and it's fun to share with others who have done or are doing the same thing to their car.

Here are a few of the front suspension work that I did.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24979&d=1391179503
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24978&d=1391179503

[ALEXAKOS]

wow!
Would feel sorry to but that back on the road!

[DMC5180]

Where did you get the cover for the Angle drive? I didn't know that kit was still available.


Also as long as as your in there your probably going too want to put Back up washers on those LCA link bushings. I ended up doing this to stop the links from migrating inward and Touching the frame in certain suspension travel scenarios.

[Mark D]

Where did you get the cover for the Angle drive? I didn't know that kit was still available.


Also as long as as your in there your probably going too want to put Back up washers on those LCA link bushings. I ended up doing this to stop the links from migrating inward and Touching the frame in certain suspension travel scenarios.

Do you mean the black rubber angle drive cover on the inboard side of the wheel? The car had that installed by the the PO, so presumably sometime between 2001 and 2007. I figured it wasn't stock but I didn't know they were unavailble now.

Off the top of my head I'm pretty sure I added extra washers between the frame and LCA support bushings to help mushroom the bushing out and hold the links in place. There was some other thread a while back and it was probably you or Dave S. that recommending doing it. I'll double check though sometime to make sure I put the extra washers in there.

[DMC5180]

Do you mean the black rubber angle drive cover on the inboard side of the wheel? The car had that installed by the the PO, so presumably sometime between 2001 and 2007. I figured it wasn't stock but I didn't know they were unavailble now.


I think that little cover was part of a service bulletin add on. I've only seen it it on a a few cars. Yours looked so clean It looked NEW. I always thought it was a clever idea. Whether or not it made a difference I have no idea.

Your restoration looks great.

[Rich_NYS]

:wow:

Me:
(looking down & saying quietly) um...i replaced my steering column bushing.....ya, um...pretty psyched about it....seems much better now.

lol

[NightFlyer]

:wow:

Me:
(looking down & saying quietly) um...i replaced my steering column bushing.....ya, um...pretty psyched about it....seems much better now.

lol

Awesome :thumbup: