What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Ryan S.]

Wow. Your engine with blue lines looks just amazing. So clean.:thumbup2::thumbup:

[sdg3205]

Oh, Dave (sdg3205) will love these. He wants to have blue SS braided fuel lines as well. Now he can see how it will look. Sweet!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/29/5f3c0e83b92a020d286f93d0691805bf.jpg

[refugeefromcalif]

I had new front tires installed, and an all wheel alignment yesterday. (Fronts were a Tad off).

34667

While the front tires were off, I checked out my dust shield to see if it was the culprit for my lack of speedometer.
The cable behind the shield wouldn't budge so, looks like it's time for a new dust shield and install the angle drive I have.

34668

Today, I cleaned it for a car show at a local Hooters tomorrow. :partyhat:

George

:EDIT: It's nice when you can get your car up on a rack. You get to see All the places that need, (or Might need), attention. :)

[novadmc]

bled the clutch with Castrol GT LMA. pedal feels much firmer now (really need to get to the brakes at some point too..)
disconnected the control pressure regulator and the A/C compressor from the driver side valve cover in prep for taking the valve covers off and doing a valve adjustment tomorrow.
after that, i think its time to start buttoning everything back up and pray she starts again.

if all goes according to schedule, the DeLorean should be road worthy by the end of Sunday.

[Alan]

We'll get 1121 exactly 3 weeks from today. Today I secured a parking spot for her. My wife and I live in a condo. We got another parking stall (which was an adventure in itself). 1121 will be parked safely between my 2000 WS.6 and a wall.

[DMC5180]

We'll get 1121 exactly 3 weeks from today. Today I secured a parking spot for her. My wife and I live in a condo. We got another parking stall (which was an adventure in itself). 1121 will be parked safely between my 2000 WS.6 and a wall.

Condo's and collector car owner/enthusiasts don't work well together. Unless the collector car is your daily driver.

[Alan]

Condo's and collector car owner/enthusiasts don't work well together. Unless the collector car is your daily driver.
We're getting a new policy from a new insurer. They wrote the condo policy, our 3 other cars, and the DeLorean with agreed value. They know who we are and it seems that we're good... but thanks for the caveat.

We're getting a new policy to ensure we're covered. It took a bit of looking to find. I have no idea if they'll be good to work with or not should something happen. The policy hasn't been signed, just negotiated. Once Is are dotted and Ts are crossed I'll let people know with whom. If something ever happens, I'll report back on that, too.

[novadmc]

put it back together and fired it up. now i think i made the motor worse :(

[dustybarn]

Today I replaced the 96/92 otterstat with a 92/87 Volvo unit. On Thursday evening I replaced the AC compressor with a shiny new Sanden 4708. The clutch coil on my old compressor was shorted and it was easier just to replace the whole thing with one that's actually intended for R-134. Nice cold AC now, and the compressor is noticeably quieter than the old one.

[DMC5180]

We're getting a new policy from a new insurer. They wrote the condo policy, our 3 other cars, and the DeLorean with agreed value. They know who we are and it seems that we're good... but thanks for the caveat.

We're getting a new policy to ensure we're covered. It took a bit of looking to find. I have no idea if they'll be good to work with or not should something happen. The policy hasn't been signed, just negotiated. Once Is are dotted and Ts are crossed I'll let people know with whom. If something ever happens, I'll report back on that, too.

While this is a point I had not considered, what I was getting at is garage space or lack their of.

[DMC5180]

Today I replaced the 96/92 otterstat with a 92/87 Volvo unit. On Thursday evening I replaced the AC compressor with a shiny new Sanden 4708. The clutch coil on my old compressor was shorted and it was easier just to replace the whole thing with one that's actually intended for R-134. Nice cold AC now, and the compressor is noticeably quieter than the old one.

This is nice to hear. I have a 4708 on my shelf waiting for me to install. The clutch is worn out (slipping) on the OE unit. Plus I've always been annoyed at the noise the 508 made.

[Ozzie]

Started 2109 up, pulled out of the garage and took this picture before going out for a sunset drive.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34727&d=1433121402

...was planning to finally drop the front from stock height later this year, I know it will look better, but am still not convinced if I really want to.

[DavidProehl]

...was planning to finally drop the front from stock height later this year, I know it will look better, but am still not convinced if I really want to.

I'm with you on that. It does look better lowered, but everyone I've personally talked to with a lowered car has at least one story of scraping their frame on a speed bump that is too high, a driveway that is too steep, or road debris that would be fine under a stock car. I get a lot of crap about having "the off road package" on my car, but for now I'd prefer that over worrying about scraping the epoxy off my frame.

[Farrar]

I'd prefer that over worrying about scraping the epoxy off my frame.

You'd scrape the radiator & sway bar brackets first.

[bfloyd]

Finally got the engine all buttoned up. Idle Speed Motor reinstalled, pipe of Agony (pain in the butt BTW) installed, W-pipe put back on, throttle and linkage all hooked back up, and wiring to various pieces all put back into place.

Speaking of wiring... the two wire connector going to the vacuum solenoid (101116) mounted on the rear of the air mixture assembly doesn't seem to have a right or wrong orientation? The connection seems to slip on either way. Is there a right or wrong way?

Still have the fuel filter, accumulator and fuel pump left to go. Hoping to get most of those done on Tuesday night and fire the engine for the first time on Wednesday night.

[Kherns]

Went on the Highway, was bored and under afliction of loss of my birth mom. 100 mph reached....Speed limit was aroun 60...
A guy was following me hard at same speed.

Cops pulled both cars over. Instant Karma !

They kept the other guy and let me go, without any troubles just sayin we don't often see DeLoreans.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Speaking of wiring... the two wire connector going to the vacuum solenoid (101116) mounted on the rear of the air mixture assembly doesn't seem to have a right or wrong orientation? The connection seems to slip on either way. Is there a right or wrong way?

It does not matter. That solenoid will work with power and ground wires either way.

[Farrar]

Not today, but over the weekend I managed to mock up the beginnings of a dual-muffler system. It's very ugly and nobody likes it so I am not posting any photos. But I still call it progress. :)

[berickson926]

Adjusted the idle speed/idle microswitch screws which resolved my high idle issue.

[jwrayth]

Finished my suspension rebuild, got the car through it's MOT. Celebrated with a 200 mile drive to the West-coast of Scotland.

http://i.imgur.com/1rrQhBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nh0SFiR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ubylQuV.jpg

[hillbillydmc]

Hey, this is the exhaust I built to use with John Herveys headers!

[Domi]

Awesome work jwrayth, your car look beautiful now :wink:

[jwrayth]

Awesome work jwrayth, your car look beautiful now :wink:

Thanks! It took much longer than I intended, but glad to have her back on the road :D

All in, the work was;


New Shocks
New lower ball-joints
New front-wheel bearings
New tie-rod ends
New poly-bushes all round (other than Trailing Arm bushes)
Made and fitted new battery cables to replace the stock ones (my battery finally fits in the compartment again!)
Ed's LCA braces fitted
Rebuilt clutch master cylinder
Fitted new clutch slave cylinder
Fitted DPNW Radiator bleeder
Brake and Clutch systems flushed
Coolant Flushed
Lots of cleaning, paint stripping, painting and detailing

[Jonathan]

Got around to replacing the outer wipe seal on the passenger door's toll booth window. Unlike the driver's door, the PO decided to rivet the bracket back in place instead of using the right screws. Nice one.

So I got to drill the rivets out and they actually came out reasonably easy. I'm thinking that's because they were a soft metal like aluminum and not SS like other rivets on the car. So the outer wipe seal goes in pretty well because you need the piece of drop glass out of the way to get to that middle tab. Yea, not so good. The window wasn't in the mood to go back in nice and friendly like and I wasn't in the mood to keep farting around with it.

In the meantime, I've got a bunch of other random things done on the car to keep me doing anything but that stupid window.

- replaced the driver's door finisher decal. Really easy and hadn't even noticed I was missing it until not long ago.
- installed a replacement rear interior dome light fixture. It went in nice, but the adventure of figuring out why only the ON mode worked and not the AUTO mode with the doors was a bit more complicated. Got that licked today though so we're good to go there.
- drilled out the rusty screws on the RH side license plate light to replace the bulb in there. That went okay too and I think the rusty retaining bracket those rusty screws had screwed into is even more secure now than it was before. Waaaay easier on this RH side to do when you pull off the taillight for access. Oh, and those rusty taillight screws got drilled out ages ago so finally something simple for that aspect.
- finally realized how the striker pin grommets are supposed to go on. Thinking they need some RTV or the like to keep them in place though, assuming I don't plan on fussing with my door alignment again anytime soon.
- replaced the hose from the oil filler to the air inlet housing. Funny how you no longer need the hose clamp when the hose isn't split at the end anymore.

Might have to actually get that window back in soon... cruise night is tomorrow and I'm thinking I might go test my new found perspective (or comebacks depending on your point of view).

[novadmc]

Adjusted the idle speed/idle microswitch screws which resolved my high idle issue.

exactly the same here (well i had to adjust the throttle rod assembly since i had monkyed with that on accident during reassembly).

idle's back down where it should be for me.

[Michael Babb]

Autocross with the De Lorean this past weekend... Much fun!

[Ryan S.]

I'm with you on that. It does look better lowered, but everyone I've personally talked to with a lowered car has at least one story of scraping their frame on a speed bump that is too high, a driveway that is too steep, or road debris that would be fine under a stock car. I get a lot of crap about having "the off road package" on my car, but for now I'd prefer that over worrying about scraping the epoxy off my frame.

Come on Dave. Come to the dark side. You have join the low riders club. How low can you get. Lower than Clint's car?

[DMC-81]

I finished refurbishing the cooling fans and installed them on a fresh DMCH radiator. Hopefully I can install the assembly this weekend and make some progress again with the hose kit.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34763&stc=1

[novadmc]

bled the brakes with Castrol GT LMA. The right front bleeder valve was clogged so I had to remove it and get all the crap out of it so i could properly bleed that caliper. didn't get a chance to drive the car (hopefully this weekend) but the brake pedal felt much firmer than it did when starting the job tonight. only fluid still left to swap in this thing is the transmission at some point this year.

[Jonathan]

Got my door put back together after finally getting the drop glass to go back in... and then went to the local A&W Cruisin' the Dub. 170 cars and a real nice night for it.

34764

[Domi]

I finished refurbishing the cooling fans and installed them on a fresh DMCH radiator. Hopefully I can install the assembly this weekend and make some progress again with the hose kit.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34763&stc=1

Wow, they look brand new!
Did you clean them up and painted again in dark black?

[Jonathan]

Wow, they look brand new!
Did you clean them up and painted again in dark black?

"Wow, they really cleaned this place up, looks brand new..." :)

34768

[DMC-81]

Wow, they look brand new!
Did you clean them up and painted again in dark black?

Thanks! Yes, I disassembled them, sanded the case parts with 180, 320, and then 400 grit, and used VHT gloss black epoxy spray paint. I was able to save, iron flat, and glue the black Smiths labels back on. One of the cable ties was missing so I got that from DMC (part SP10841)


34769

[Domi]

Thank you for your answer DMC-81, you've done a very good job, congratulations once again :thumbup2:

[JohnZ]

Last night I had a dream about the alternator belt breaking down and overheating the car ----> I just bought a spare belt :approve:

[Michael Babb]

Attended an Autocross school on Saturday and participated in an SCCA autocross event on Sunday. Was a blast to do, and great fun to see what folks that have been doing this for a long time were able to make my DeLorean do:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLY3ntDABpI

34830

[BABIS]

Just added a fancy waterproof connector to the trunk latch actuator, along with braided sleeve..

34863

In addiction I want to redesign the latch cover (the one in black plastic) to cover also the actuator...

[Farrar]

Just added a fancy waterproof connector to the trunk latch actuator, along with braided sleeve..

Good job! That is something I have wanted/planned to do for a long time: replace the connectors which see weather with new "Weatherpack" style ones.

Looks great!

[hillbillydmc]

Hey, I installed Toby's sway bar poly kit today! Great instructions was easy to install! I can't wait to see how it drives!

[jawn101]

Removed my trailing arm shields and threw a pack of OEM trailing arm spacers in the ashtray. Heading to a proper Lotus race shop tomorrow for a 4-wheel alignment.

[Chris 16409]

I designed a new way to prop up the engine cover. My new louvre struts prevent me from using the DMC cutout in the louvre brace.

34895

[Ryan S.]

Which strut are you using?

[Chris 16409]

Grady's new struts. They are a good product. He made them to OEM specs, so the originals ones were the same length.

[bfloyd]

Finally got all of the car put back together today. New DMCH fuel pump combo unit went in on Thursday night. Removed the fuel filter and flipped my DPI fuel feed line around so the swivel fitting was on the distributor end today, reinstalled the fuel tank closing plate, put the new connector on my warm up regulator, new battery installed, and filled the tank for the first time with 6 fresh gallons of fuel.

I was SO ready to fire up the engine for the first time. I jumped the RPM relay, and can hear the fuel pump running, and if you crawl under the car you could hear the gas returning,completing the loop back to the tank. Fuel gauge rose to the half way mark with the key in the ignition. Tried starting the car. It cranks, and cranks, but does not fire over. I could feel the idle speed motor vibrating (I assume that's good), didn't see any leaks anywhere, but still would not start. The air mixture metering plate violently swung up and down as we cranked the car. Couldn't smell any gas at the rear of the car, or any hint of gas from the exhaust pipes. Couldn't hear any "buzzing" from the frequency valve. I've never heard it before, so I'm not real sure what it should sound like.

Posted on facebook my dilemma, and Josh form DPI called me about 30 minutes later. He suggested to pull the main ignition wire from the coil and check for as spark. Did that, and we've got a spark there. Pulled the connectors off of the ballast resistor and cleaned the terminals. Tried again... still nothing.

I can't even tell if I'm getting gas back to the injectors. I guess my next step might be to pull the injectors and test them? The car sat untouched for 20 years, so I pulled the injectors and soaked them in Berryman's B12 for 2 months while I was doing everything else.

Any suggestions?

[Bitsyncmaster]

The air mixture metering plate violently swung up and down as we cranked the car.

That suggests fuel pressure problem. Did you mix up the pressure and return lines at the pump?

Was your car running before you replaced the fuel pump?

The FV will not buzz with just the fuel pump jumpered. The correct jumper (or use the RPM relay) would be, brown wire to white/purple (fuel pump) and brown wire to double yellow/red (lambda power).

[Jonathan]

Any suggestions?

I would not yet assume you are getting fuel returning to the tank as you mentioned if only listening for it. You may be right, but there are some other noises with the car that could fool you into thinking something is correct when indeed it isn't.

That being said, if you have spark, you have spark, so lets leave that for a minute.

Same with air. If you have the air inlet housing right off the engine, I can't imagine you are starving the engine of air at the moment.

So for fuel, start at the pump and confirm connections, both plumbing and electrical. And take and post pictures here if you can as I for one am more visual and others too might spot something not right that writing about won't mention.

Check the pump outlet (and return to tank) connections are joined up with the right hardline going back to the rear of the car.
Did you do any work on the accumulator? Can you get under there at least enough with your arm outstretched to take a picture or two of that?
You mentioned flipping a hose or fitting around at the filter and I'm not sure what you meant by that. If something was accidently going in the outlet and nothing was coming out the outlet, it might explain why you aren't getting any fuel back there. Post a picture of your fuel filter taken from underneath if possible.
Take a couple photos of the top of the engine showing the electrical connections of the ignition and idle components. Vacuum hoses too. If you can wiggle your camera to the back of the engine (towards the front of the car), take a photo looking down and back at the vacuum advance solenoid. We had a local owners car not fire up recently when his solenoid had died internally. It popped a fuse when trying so that's another thing for you to check is see if any fuses in your car are blown.

[DMC5180]

Try a burst of starting fluid while cranking the engine over. This will confirm ignition, speak of which make sure the coil wire didn't accidentally get knocked of the distributor cap. That happened to me once when I had been working in the area and didn't realize I had inadvertently knocked it off. Imagine my surprise when I went to start the engine and nothing happened.

If it fires on starting fluid and dies. Move to flow checking the injectors.

[bfloyd]

Spoke with Josh from DPI earlier this morning, like many of you said, he said it sounds like it's starving for fuel. He asked me specifically about the plunger / piston in the fuel distributor and said it should easily fall out if there's nothing under it to support it. It doesn't. If it gets pressed up into the body of the distributor, it just kind of stays there. I cleaned it when I had everything apart, and from what i could tell it wasn't scratched in any way, and I've never dropped it.

He said to pull the injectors and test them in bottles, and if that doesn't work, it may point to the fuel distributor needing to be rebuilt.

[bfloyd]

Tried starting fluid.... and it fired right up, ran for a few seconds and died. So now I know that the spark is good, the ignition wires and related bits are good. Still starving for fuel. Pulling the injectors is the next step.

[DMC5180]

When you jumped the rpm relay to run the fuel pump, did you check to see if there was pressure on the air meter flap?
You said earlier the the plate moved up and down violently while cranking. If you had pressure resistance it should not move like that.

[Mark D]

This weekend I took my car for a 1000 mile road trip to attend a friend's wedding in Michigan. The car drove great and had zero issues. Several people were surprised I was willing to drive it so far. Even among non car people there seems to be this negative association that DeLoreans are unreliable and break down all the time. :dunno:

[Chris 16409]

Changed the oil before my trip to Pisml Beach for their annual car show father's day car show.

These are the oil filters I ues:

34998

[Kukem]

Installed a new battery and kill switch into the car. Went smoothly!

[klaatu42]

Added more functionality to the iOS app I'm developing. It can now unlock/lock the car and power up the accessory and main relays. Next up: starting the car.

I need some door launchers!


https://www.facebook.com/andrewgrantham/videos/o.106975652679384/10153320882371007/?type=2&theater

[bfloyd]

Ever wake up out of a sound sleep at 5 minutes till 5 a.m., put your bathrobe on and go check the fuel pump on your car? Yeah... that happened this morning....
http://i.imgur.com/t2DYBkO.jpg

[Jonathan]

Ever wake up out of a sound sleep at 5 minutes till 5 a.m., put your bathrobe on and go check the fuel pump on your car? Yeah... that happened this morning....
http://i.imgur.com/t2DYBkO.jpg

It happens!

(Glad to hear you figured it out.)

[DMC5180]

Added more functionality to the iOS app I'm developing. It can now unlock/lock the car and power up the accessory and main relays. Next up: starting the car.

I need some door launchers!


https://www.facebook.com/andrewgrantham/videos/o.106975652679384/10153320882371007/?type=2&theater

Sweet,

Are you doing this with bluetooth?

[bfloyd]

So... I got the check valve flipped around the correct way and things are definitely improving. As soon as I jumped the RPM relay, I immediately heard a "thud" come from the engine bay as the fuel pressure pushed the fuel distributor piston back into place and slammed the air metering plate shut. I went around to the rear of the car and gently pressed down on the plate... it fights back with some resistance now. When I press down a little further, the whole distributor makes a weird sound... almost like the sound of someone letting the air out of a balloon and pinching the neck closed. Ever heard your plumbing pipes in your house make that weird "air in the pipes" kind of sound? It sounded like that. I guess the lines are still full of air since they are brand new.

I thought that pressing down the plate would squirt fuel directly from the injectors into the cylinders enough to prime it to fire off the engine. I was able to start the engine momentarily - it ran for about 10 seconds - coughed a lot along the way - then died. My brand new battery is getting a little weak from pushing the starter over and over. Might have to put it on the charger overnight to top it off.

My new injector seals came in today from Texas, so I plan to pull and test the injectors on Saturday and replace the rubber seals and see what happens.

[Jonathan]

Went to the local A&W "Cruisin' the Dub" last night. Third week in a row they've had 170+ cars. Some good luck with the weather has helped that.

35011

Saw these after I got home. Fingerprints wipe off and they kind of come with the territory on our cars. I laughed a little seeing these ones 'cause I figured it was from a little person trying to peer up and over to see inside while I wasn't there.

35012

[5875]

Went to the local A&W "Cruisin' the Dub" last night. Third week in a row they've had 170+ cars. Some good luck with the weather has helped that.

35011

We have similar Ontario vanity plates Jonathan - my car has "BACK280S". I wondered who had the "BCK2D80S" when I registered mine.


Saw these after I got home. Fingerprints wipe off and they kind of come with the territory on our cars. I laughed a little seeing these ones 'cause I figured it was from a little person trying to peer up and over to see inside while I wasn't there.

35012

That is funny. I often see this on my car as well, but while stored in the garage. My 5 year old son likes to peek in the window now and then...he gets a free 'friends and family' pass :wink:

[MML]

Saw these after I got home. Fingerprints wipe off and they kind of come with the territory on our cars. I laughed a little seeing these ones 'cause I figured it was from a little person trying to peer up and over to see inside while I wasn't there.

35012

I've had fingerprints on mine in the past that just would not come off, no matter what cleaner I used. I eventually had to use a scotchbrite pad to sand them off. I have no idea what the person had on their hands, maybe sun tan lotion or something.

[Jonathan]

I've had fingerprints on mine in the past that just would not come off, no matter what cleaner I used. I eventually had to use a scotchbrite pad to sand them off. I have no idea what the person had on their hands, maybe sun tan lotion or something.

Yea, been there done that. Hard to explain, eh? And I think the kid's fingerprints can be the hardest sometimes 'cause they're often greasy French fry hands or some other goop they were eating.

[Kukem]

Got my glove box light and switch repaired. They work fine now. Also installed new speakers in the front.
350513505235053

[bfloyd]

Still sorting out the troubleshooting on the engine. I was actually able to get it started several days in a row last week, and thought those issues were behind me.

It would start out rough, with very little power, and pressing the accelerator seemed to have no influence whatsoever. On Thursday, I got it to run for about 5 minutes straight, and then when it warmed up, it's like the engine woke up and I could rev the engine by moving the throttle spool with my hand. It smoked a little, but nothing major. I need to bleed the radiator since I can tell the coolant isn't moving around. The engine does have coolant in it. No coolant in the oil.

Went out Saturday morning to bleed the radiator and take if off the jack stands and ramps. Would not start at all. Wouldn't even start with starting fluid. I guess I'm back to square one on this thing.

[Farrar]

made sure it was still in the garage.

[MML]

made sure it was still in the garage.

Don't leave us hanging, dude!!! Was it there or not?? :tongue:

[MML]

Discovered this little fecker living in my front wing. At least he keeps all the McFlys away.

Ayyyyyy!

http://i.imgur.com/so6RtFL.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yesterday started converting another owners DeLorean AC to R134a.

First ran pressure tests and his unit pressures looked good with the remaining R12 but vent temps were only 78 deg. (outside air temp was 88 deg.)

Pulled the compressor to drain the oil. None came out of the compressor but it seemed to turn fine with no grinding noises.:(

Pulled the accumulator and high pressure hub. The orifice tube came out without a problem and the screen on it was perfectly clean (looked bran new).

My friend had bought Hervey's hose kit so I started with that large low side hose knowing the problems I had doing my hose. Sure enough, I could not get that end of the hose past the first bottom plate nut. The edges of Hervey's hose crimp had pushed the metal ring up higher than the hose thickness and left a very sharp edge. So I filed that end of the crimp ring down to the hose. It then pushed in pretty easy down to that area when the under body turns so the hose has to pass by that angle. No matter how I pushed and twisted, that pipe on the hose would not clear that angle. Left that hose to do later.

I flushed the condenser and evaporator. Evaporator needed a little air pressure to get the solvent to flow through it. I’m guessing it had oil in it blocking the flow.

Not much problem running the hub hose, new accumulator and high side hose.

Called it a day. That 8 hours of work takes it’s toll on my 62 year old body.

Thinking I may try to bend that pipe a little on the low side hose so it can clear that angle.

[vps3922]

Started to hunt down electrical gremlins.

I recently got notified by my landlord that my courtesy light was on. I checked the seating of the doors and they were properly closed. I opened the door and tested the plunger switches/door ajar switches. The light went off right away, but it was supposed to dim after 20 sec with Bitsyncmasters LED dimmer relay.

I started the car and the lights reversed to normal operation (dimming properly).

The other day I opened the door and frunk but no light came on. I started the car expecting the battery to be dead but it started fine (with some pushing of the gas pedal, like always after a few days rest). Still no lights. I put the LMS into first position and all lights came on (frunk, courtesy, etc.). Courtesy also dimmed properly. Locked the car again.

Checked yesterday and the courtesy lights were on again. They went off when I opened the door. Frunk light did not come on. Engine compartment light did not come on. Checked the relay compartment and found a tap on a thin white cable attached to the main relay but it did not seem related. Also noticed for the first time some weird wiring that looks like PO, but I will check this weekend. Pulled Bitsyncmaster's dimmer relay. Checked cabeling. Everything good.
Noticed that the car powered on all dash lights as if I would put the key into first position when I puched the main relay in towards its top on the connectors. Probably unrelated.
Even starting the car and pushing in the LMS did not bring the lights back. They are all fed through fuse 12. This one is ok. The cable from fuse 12 needs to get split for the LED dimmer installation, but everything looked fine. Noticed that lights (courtesy, door, frunk, engine compartment) came on when putting key to first position. The circuit board diagram told me that this can happen if there is no constant power on fuse 12 as it then routes the 12V from the ignition circuit. Had no volt meter at hand and wife was bugging me to finally come back into the house. Installed LED dimmer module again and all seemed fine.
Closed doors and waited until light went off (20 sec). put the car cover on and did a control check through the louvre and saw that the courtesy ligts were on again (sigh!). Opened the door and tested plunger switches. Seemed to work fine. I had replaced a plunger cap a while ago and extended it internally with a little bit of glue. It seemd to have worn off. Put some paper towel bits into the rubber tip to extend the switches further and that seemed to help. I guess I have to think about a new solution for the plunger switches or buy Ed Udings longer switches.
That, of course, does not explain why the frink or engine compartment light did not work, but that has to stay for another day. :dead:

[vps3922]

Discovered this little fecker living in my front wing. At least he keeps all the McFlys away.

Ayyyyyy!

Wow, what a big guy, and that in Donegal? Big hunter. And I thought one like that is usually to be found with our friends from Down Under, but I guess they have to fight with bigger ones (a.k.a. Huntsman). These buggers can even keep humans away.

[Farrar]

Don't leave us hanging, dude!!! Was it there or not?? :tongue:

It was. That's why I said "made sure" instead of "checked to see if."

[MML]

Wow, what a big guy, and that in Donegal? Big hunter. And I thought one like that is usually to be found with our friends from Down Under, but I guess they have to fight with bigger ones (a.k.a. Huntsman). These buggers can even keep humans away.

Yep, and they seem to be getting more common in recent times!

[Alan]

I've only had my DeLorean since last weekend and there really isn't anything that needs to be done... yet.

Today I cleaned 1121 for the first time. I put on stainless door sill letters. I installed door LEDs. I put a battery in the LockZilla keyless entry fob and was pleasantly surprised that the keyless entry worked. I tightened my gas cap... and she was part of a mini phone shoot out behind our favorite liquor purveyor's.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35158&stc=1

[Timebender]

Paid off what I owed DMC California for some repairs and it's on a truck on it's way home right at this very moment. So I'm bringing her home - to a nice warm garage.

[airfireman1]

Discovered this little fecker living in my front wing. At least he keeps all the McFlys away.

Ayyyyyy!

http://i.imgur.com/so6RtFL.jpg

Just a baby compared to what we have in Australia!. Had a giant Huntsman spider run into my land rover a while ago and disappeared under the dash. Used a whole can of insect spray and did not drive the car for a week, never saw it again, dead or alive.

[BABIS]

Shopping at the Volvo dealer ;)

35173

[vps3922]

Just a baby compared to what we have in Australia!. Had a giant Huntsman spider run into my land rover a while ago and disappeared under the dash. Used a whole can of insect spray and did not drive the car for a week, never saw it again, dead or alive.

Yeah, I was thinking about the giant huntsmans. I guess that I would drop dead when one would appear in my house. I know that they are really useful and keep other critters away. But still not loving the site. My wife and I nearly got to move to Australia from Canada and that aspect (critters) turned into long discussions if we really should go. Well, the offer fell apart. Spiders in Canada are way less scary. :offtopic:

[Timebender]

As scary as Huntsman look, they're harmless to us.

Venom toxicity - the bite of Huntsman Spiders is of low risk (non toxic) to humans. They are a non-aggressive group of spiders. However, a large individual can give a painful bite. Beware in summer when the female Huntsman Spider is guarding her egg sacs or young.

There was a video too that said they don't make webs - so is the one on the windshield a Huntsman?

[Dangermouse]

Shopping at the Volvo dealer ;)

35173

The volvo dealer still carries parts?

[Tillsy]

I don't care how harmless people say huntsmen are - I still spray them enough that the bug spray foams up.

That said, don't piss a huntsman off - those things can really run batshit when they want to and will generally charge AT you not away from you :(

Hate the bastards :(

[novadmc]

I have the day off today so i finally got around to replacing my oxygen sensor this morning (day off and still up at 5:30 thanks to my 2 year old). I meant to do it with all my other work last month but forgot to.

anyways, here's the old sensor:
35176

I can't imagine im running THAT lean after the last mixture adjustment so im assuming the white is due to the techron i put in after all the other work. at least that's what im going to tell myself :)

after the new one was installed i fired the car up and adjusted the dwell again as need be. its still not perfect (and i still have some metallic rattly noise under moderate to high load - not sure if pinging, so it might mean my injectors need a good cleaning (figure fuel lines are next on my list so while i'm there....)

here's the current reading with the latest adjustment after the oxygen sensor was replaced:


https://youtu.be/V1jUPJsROrg

[vps3922]

There was a video too that said they don't make webs - so is the one on the windshield a Huntsman?

Nope. We would see much more of the windshield if that would be a Huntsman. :)

This is a standard wolf spider in Donegal, Ireland. Huntsman can be found in Australia and surroundings. The one in the Melbourne area are the "smaller" variety (so I heard) with a legspan of up to 15 cm. Further north you can run into the "Giant" Huntsman with a leg span of up to 30 cm. And like Tillsy said: they can run as fast as a bolt. Whew, there are times were I am happy that I stayed in Canada.

[MML]

I don't care how harmless people say huntsmen are - I still spray them enough that the bug spray foams up.

That said, don't piss a huntsman off - those things can really run batshit when they want to and will generally charge AT you not away from you :(

Hate the bastards :(

Ahhh, Australia. The land where absolutely everything can kill you, and you'll hurt the whole time you're dying. :-P

[DMC-81]

Today I discovered that my rusted OEM exhaust was really only a rust STAINED exhaust.
Here I what I started with:
35232

Then I poured full strength Muratic Acid on it, let it sit for a minute, sanded with 320 grit, wiped the rust off, and repeated the process until the rust was gone. Then I wet sanded everything with 600 grit and a garden hose.

Here is the result:

35233

So, I saved $615.00 today with 1 cup of acid, sandpaper, shop towels, and 4 hours of my time.

:woot:

For any others wanting to do this with acid, BE CAREFUL!!!!, make sure you do it outside, have breathing protection, thick rubber gloves, have a plastic /rubber pan to catch the acid in so you can use it again, and baking soda so you can neutralize the acid when you are done for disposal.

Cheers,
Dana

[MML]

Today I discovered that my rusted OEM exhaust was really only a rust STAINED exhaust.
Here I what I started with:
35232

Then I poured full strength Muratic Acid on it, let it sit for a minute, sanded with 320 grit, wiped the rust off, and repeated the process until the rust was gone. Then I wet sanded everything with 600 grit and a garden hose.

Here is the result:

35233

So, I saved $615.00 today with 1 cup of acid, sandpaper, shop towels, and 4 hours of my time.

:woot:

For any others wanting to do this with acid, BE CAREFUL!!!!, make sure you do it outside, have breathing protection, thick rubber gloves, have a plastic /rubber pan to catch the acid in so you can use it again, and baking soda so you can neutralize the acid when you are done for disposal.

Cheers,
Dana


Wow. That's an amazing transformation!

[DMC-81]

Wow. That's an amazing transformation!

Thanks! The acid almost melted the rust off!

:headbang:

[DMC5180]

The trick now is keeping it that way.

[bfloyd]

Happy to report that DMC 3294 rolled out of the garage today under it's own power! First time the car has moved under it's own power since 1995... The good news is, the engine works well, and the transmission seems to work. Bad news is, the brakes don't work so well as I almost took out the front of my Jeep Cherokee with the rear end of the Delorean.
I know, I know... baby steps.

[Timebender]

I put in a new starter relay Friday night. The original relay gave out on Thursday - I had been driving home, and had to stop at a parts store. Came back and and no starter - at all. Danny thought it might be power from the relay to the starter, or even a bad starter solenoid. I had a feeling it was the relay, but unfortunately the parts place, manned by people who have zero car knowledge (thanks AutoZone), didn't know how to find a 12volt, 30 amp relay. The Kragan's I called, while in the AutoZone lot, did however by asking one simple question, but they were about a mile away and I wasn't in the mood for a walk, plus the store I was at was in a not so great area. So I had to get towed home. Got a new relay at a Kragans the next day, and she fired right up when I put it in.
Now to replace all the relays, followed by an electronic ignition (I have a Chevy 350 small block in mine).

[DMC-81]

Happy to report that DMC 3294 rolled out of the garage today under it's own power! First time the car has moved under it's own power since 1995... The good news is, the engine works well, and the transmission seems to work. Bad news is, the brakes don't work so well as I almost took out the front of my Jeep Cherokee with the rear end of the Delorean.
I know, I know... baby steps.

Congrats Barry! That is definitely a milestone. I know how that feels to make small steps.

Cheers,
Dana

[DMC5180]

I put in a new starter relay Friday night. The original relay gave out on Thursday - I had been driving home, and had to stop at a parts store. Came back and and no starter - at all. Danny thought it might be power from the relay to the starter, or even a bad starter solenoid. I had a feeling it was the relay, but unfortunately the parts place, manned by people who have zero car knowledge (thanks AutoZone), didn't know how to find a 12volt, 30 amp relay. The Kragan's I called, while in the AutoZone lot, did however by asking one simple question, but they were about a mile away and I wasn't in the mood for a walk, plus the store I was at was in a not so great area. So I had to get towed home. Got a new relay at a Kragans the next day, and she fired right up when I put it in.
Now to replace all the relays, followed by an electronic ignition (I have a Chevy 350 small block in mine).

FWIW: in your particular case you could have temporarily swapped in one of your non critical relays like the high beam. Then you could have driven to kragens or home for that matter.

[bfloyd]

My first night off from work in over a week, me and my 8 year old decided to get a little adventurous and daring with the DeLorean. "We'll just drive it around the block".... We made it 3/4's way around the block and the front wheels locked up. Now matter how much gas I gave it, it wasn't moving another inch. Neighbor across the street saw us and offered to help. I walked back to the house to get my truck and tow strap and he and my son stayed with the car. Slowly towed it back to the house and the front wheels locked up again. It felt like wrestling a pit bull on a leash... I was pulling, the car wasn't moving. Went and got my floor jack out of the garage and we jacked up the front end about an inch off the ground and I drove the car on the rear two wheels and the wheels of the floor jack the rest of the way up my driveway and into the garage.

With the front wheels up in the air, they will not spin at all. I'm thinking it's either brakes, wheel bearings, or all of the above. Pretty sure I'm getting ready to replace all of the calipers, master cylinder, rotors and wheel bearings.

http://i.imgur.com/pQw8Nux.jpg

[DavidProehl]

With the front wheels up in the air, they will not spin at all. I'm thinking it's either brakes, wheel bearings, or all of the above. Pretty sure I'm getting ready to replace all of the calipers, master cylinder, rotors and wheel bearings.


Both front wheels won't turn? That is odd. They turn independently, so it would be very strange if both bearings went at the exact same time. Sounds like the brakes aren't releasing to me.

[bfloyd]

Looking back at the skid marks on my driveway, it looks like the right front wheel was the culprit.

[novadmc]

Looking back at the skid marks on my driveway, it looks like the right front wheel was the culprit.

still on the original brake lines? maybe just a collapsed line? if you open the bleeder valve, can you then spin the wheel freely (or at all)? if you can with the valve open, then the line may have just collapsed internally. if the wheel still wont budge, then seized caliper is the next likely culprit.

[berickson926]

Did various tests/air bleeding on the car over the weekend to ensure I had finally sorted out my cooling system issues after the water pump install.

Since the car appeared to be running well at this point I decided to go through with my plans to drive up to the Hollywood Bowl for the BTTF in concert event last night.

It ran like a champ even in bumper to bumper traffic!

[Timebender]

FWIW: in your particular case you could have temporarily swapped in one of your non critical relays like the high beam. Then you could have driven to kragens or home for that matter.

Yeah I know.. I thought so after I had it towed home and found out they're all the same kind of relay.

Live and learn.

[Jonathan]

Went to a cruise night about an hour away and all was well.

Seemed like something was not quite right with the throttle on the drive home, not all of it, but the first part for sure.

My theory was that when I was kinda climbing into the "back" to prop up the flux capacitor against the cargo net, my elbow leaned too much weight on the centre console and pinched the throttle cable a little bit. Until I realized it or it finally relaxed enough and wiggled itself some slack, it was getting caught and keeping the throttle at something other than what my foot was trying to do with it.

Is this even possible? Anyone ever had experience with a throttle cable getting pinched accidentally under the ashtray/armrest area in the middle?

It seemed to smooth itself out later on in the drive, but maybe I still need to go looking for some other cause...

[DMC5180]

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

[Jonathan]

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

Thanks Dennis.

Any particular type of lubricating spray you recommend?

(boy, that line could get misread if you didn't know you were on a car forum...)

[John U]

Thanks Dennis.

Any particular type of lubricating spray you recommend?

(boy, that line could get misread if you didn't know you were on a car forum...)

Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha!

[DMC5180]

Ideally a spray on lithium. Wipe off excess grease. You only need it between the coils. For a temporary trial run just use some wd40 or similar. It will evaporate fairly quickly but at least you will know if it helps or not.

[DMCMW Dave]

Ideally a spray on lithium. Wipe off excess grease. You only need it between the coils. For a temporary trial run just use some wd40 or similar. It will evaporate fairly quickly but at least you will know if it helps or not.

Also make sure the end of the top return spring isn't dragging on the slot on the pin that it rests on. If you don't have the recall kit snaprings on that post, the slot will often grab the end of the spring and cause it to bind rather than slide.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

I had this problem many years ago. That large spring on the spool where the throttle cable links to was causing binding because the spring was dry. I pulled the spring and lubed it with some grease and it has been working fine since. I did also work some grease into the other spring on the throttle plate assembly. I don't run with the recall plate over the throttle spool so the grease seems to hold up with occasional rain water on it.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give the lube a try. The springs on my car could definitely be considered dry and what grease I had used previously might be needing a redo.

I'll double check those clip on washers you mentioned Dave. I remember talking about them with you one day as I hadn't realized what the heck they were for as part of the deice kit recall originally. I believe they are still in place, but I'll make sure.

I hadn't realized that inside that cable sheath it was metal supported Dennis. That does sound unlikely that I would have pinched down through it temporarily somehow.

[JohnZ]

Jump started a dead Citroen Xsara Picasso... that's the second jump start I GIVE with the Delorean... what a benevolent car!

:approve:

[Jonathan]

Here's a pic from the cruise night last night.

35283

[cpistocco]

still on the original brake lines? maybe just a collapsed line? if you open the bleeder valve, can you then spin the wheel freely (or at all)? if you can with the valve open, then the line may have just collapsed internally. if the wheel still wont budge, then seized caliper is the next likely culprit.


Check the black rubber brake HOSE (for that wheel) for proper fluid flow/restrictions...

[DMC-81]

Today I installed my refurbished exhaust and brackets and finished filling my coolant. My engine refresh is progressing. Completed is the water pump, coolant hoses, spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, clutch slave cylinder and stainless steel line, overflow tank, heat stove and air intake, radiator and fans, alternator, exhaust, and various fasteners, labels etc.

I only have the intake plenum, fuel system, and emissions to install next. Then I can restart it. :yesss:

35311

[bfloyd]

Got it up on 4 jack stands today to start removing the brake calipers. I've decided to replace all of the calipers, pads, master cylinder, etc. I've seen where some of the vendors want the cores back on the calipers, and they must be the original Girlings. I know on the font I have the Girlings because the logo is clearly visible. What about the rear? Do these look like the originals? I couldn't see a logo on them...
http://i.imgur.com/xKVZFZa.jpg

[DMC-81]

Over the last 2 days, I installed the intake, fuel distributor/mixing unit, idle speed regulator, throttle tubes & bobbin, and most of the connections. All I have left to do on the engine refresh is the fuel lines and CPR. This is a phase of the restoration that I began in mid February, so I will be glad to see it through, and move on to something else.

35325

[DavidProehl]

Went grocery shopping. I have friends visiting from MN and they borrowed my daily driver to spend a few days in Yosemite while I have to work. This meant I had to park the DeLorean in a parking lot of shopping carts. Yes, it is as terrifying as it sounds. Because I'm overly paranoid, I hung my GoPro from my passenger visor to capture anything that may have happened while parked there. Kind of interesting to see the attention it gets when I'm not around. I have a flux capacitor on the parcel shelf which is what I assume everyone is taking close ups of.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQm05OLEBQU

[Domi]

Pretty funny video, thanks for sharing :)

[Henrik]

Somewhere on this very thread, one of our Australian fellow D owners posted a video where he put a GoPro or equiv. on the roof of his D and then went for a lovely drive; all while "Feels Like Heaven" by Fiction Factory was playing. Don't know why, but I found that video beautifully inspirational. I enjoyed it a couple of times but the thread has since grown exponentially and I can't find it anymore.

Anyone know what I'm talking about?

[DMC-81]

This morning I finished the engine refresh by installing my frequency valve and fuel return line, the new upper exhaust bracket (to replace my cracked one), and the air filter assembly. Today, the battery is being charged. Tomorrow I'll connect the new alternator and attempt to start it for the first time since February. Wish me luck!

35372

[Alan]

VERY nice. Good luck.

[OZ DMC]

Yesterday I fitted the front brake callipers I had reconditioned because of sticking pistons. Also replaced the steering rack boots and replenished the oil. This brought me to the shocks and I found the left front was not in great condition. They are Girling Decarbon 700etc but they seem to get a bit of a bad wrap.

Any suggestions for a better set of shocks? The car has not been lowered.

Thank you

OZ DMC

[Farrar]

Halfway to a temporary exhaust system.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35379&stc=1

[DMC-81]

This morning I finished the engine refresh by installing my frequency valve and fuel return line, the new upper exhaust bracket (to replace my cracked one), and the air filter assembly. Today, the battery is being charged. Tomorrow I'll connect the new alternator and attempt to start it for the first time since February. Wish me luck!


Well, I attempted to start the engine today, and it was a success!! I had to turn it over several times as the fuel lines needed to be filled, but once it got going it ran strong, smooth, and quiet.

Work done:
New water pump, alternator, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, coolant hoses, overflow tank and radiator, SS fuel lines, exhaust heat shield, engine seals, clutch slave cylinder and SS line, diagnostic plug, and numerous little bits
Re-plated fasteners and and most parts in clear and yellow zinc, and refurbished the cooling fans.
Valve adjustment
Cleaned and detailed everything, and repainted what needed it
It was a major undertaking, but patience, documentation, pictures, and ziplock bags helped me organize the project.
Before:

35381

Most of the tear down (except the timing cover):

35382

After (running engine today):

35380

Thanks for all the questions that the DMCTalk community answered. It was very helpful.

Now the next thing is the touching up the fuel tank closing plate, replacing the fuel accumulator, cleaning the rear suspension and rebuilding the rear calipers.

Dana

[Tillsy]

When I rewired the side park/perimeter as an indicator, my ultimate goal was to make it BOTH a park (dim) and indicator (bright). I allowed for it in the wiring at the time, but it has taken me exactly three years to get back onto completing this work.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35641&d=1437644198

[Trstno1]

Hey guys-

So with inspiration from Patric C.'s car, 5625 finally received a much wanted face lift. I finally finished the stereo system!! :approve:

The components are as follows:

1. Front speakers - Polk Audio (DB351)
2. Rear speakers - infinity Reference (5032cf)
3. Planet Audio 5 channel amp (AC1800.5 Anarchy)
4. 8" DVC Pioneer sub woofer (TS-SW2002D2) in a Pioneer down firing sealed box
5. iPad mini w/ cellular for main head unit w/ (Mitsubishi heater vent relocation)
6. Sony MEX-N5000BT as hidden deck in cubby behind drivers seat (hands free calling)
7. Wifi back up camera
8. PAC IR-X Infrared Extender ( so I can use the Sony remote on the iPad)
9. New automatic antenna (Metra 44-PW22) wired to dummy switch in central console

I can't tell you how happy I am with how everything turned out. I even left room behind the passenger seat for the d%#! Flux capacitor that everyone keeps asking about. If you guys are interested in looking at the install process take a look at the album I created on my profile page.

[DMC5180]

Nicely done! Where did you source the iPad graphics?

[nkemp]

How are you controlling the radio remotely? Via BT and the iPad?

[Trstno1]

Nicely done! Where did you source the iPad graphics?

Just random places from the Internet. I just searched for high resolution DMC logos and picked one I liked.

[Trstno1]

How are you controlling the radio remotely? Via BT and the iPad?

The iPad is conected to the deck via usb to lightning cable. However, I also installed a separate infrared extender. I mounted the receiving eye in the dash so that I could use the remote control while driving so I don't have to take my eyes off the road. The bluetooth comes into the picture with my iphone. I am able to connect my phone to the Sony deck and In-turn use an app on the iPad to achieve hands free calling.

It's really quite a trip to have Siri available while driving to load music, get directions, search the Internet, and make phone calls.

[Jonathan]

Played around with my idle a bit. My thermistor became unplugged sometime last year, so since then, I've had a jumper at the connector on the back of the ECU behind the driver's seat. I redid those connections again today, but I don't think it is the culprit for what I'm seeing lately.

After getting it wired up nice and connecting the battery again, it fired right up and idled very strong at 775. Then at what I would presume to be around this 4 minute mark where a different part of the idle system takes over, it starts struggling a bit. Like the idle would get weaker and weaker, down to about 500 something, and then go back up to 775 or so. Then repeat, not violently, but enough to make you think it could stall if you got unlucky that way when in traffic.

Remind me again what part of the idle system takes over once warm? Is this going to be related to the open loop/closed loop discussion and whether the oxygen sensor is being used or not? I don't claim to understand that part of the system very well as having never really needed to fiddle with it. Sticky idle speed motor might be another possibility? Any other ideas or places/components to check connections on?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Played around with my idle a bit. My thermistor became unplugged sometime last year, so since then, I've had a jumper at the connector on the back of the ECU behind the driver's seat. I redid those connections again today, but I don't think it is the culprit for what I'm seeing lately.

After getting it wired up nice and connecting the battery again, it fired right up and idled very strong at 775. Then at what I would presume to be around this 4 minute mark where a different part of the idle system takes over, it starts struggling a bit. Like the idle would get weaker and weaker, down to about 500 something, and then go back up to 775 or so. Then repeat, not violently, but enough to make you think it could stall if you got unlucky that way when in traffic.

Remind me again what part of the idle system takes over once warm? Is this going to be related to the open loop/closed loop discussion and whether the oxygen sensor is being used or not? I don't claim to understand that part of the system very well as having never really needed to fiddle with it. Sticky idle speed motor might be another possibility? Any other ideas or places/components to check connections on?

The lambda ECU starts controlling mixture after a few minuets of warmup. That is when the the O2 sensor starts putting an output voltage (it must be hot to work). If you have not replace the O2 sensor, that would be the first thing to do.

[DMC5180]

It's really quite a trip to have Siri available while driving to load music, get directions, search the Internet, and make phone calls.

I thought Siri only worked with wifi direct internet connectivity as opposed to cellular data.

[Jonathan]

The lambda ECU starts controlling mixture after a few minuets of warmup. That is when the the O2 sensor starts putting an output voltage (it must be hot to work). If you have not replace the O2 sensor, that would be the first thing to do.

Thanks Dave. I looked back at my notes, and I had the oxygen sensor replaced in April 2010. I have not gone anywhere near 30,000 miles in that time, more like 8,000 miles maybe. I can inspect the wiring to it as that is easily accessible and very possible to be something I could have jostled the wrong way when fumbling around trying to get the cover/cap off the auto trans diagnostic plug. Or the connectors might just be a bit corroded like other areas.

If I were to get under there where it is threaded into the exhaust and extract it, is there going to be much for me to see on the inserted end to know if it is shot? Can I get one of these sensors locally (I assume they are a Bosch part)?

[Ron]

Jonathan, Have you checked your CO/Dwell?

[Jonathan]

Jonathan, Have you checked your CO/Dwell?

Hey Ron... I have not. Ever, actually. I hadn't ever really needed to since I got the car, but I'm thinking it might be time I finally figure it out. I've seen a number of threads and videos on the subject so I should be ok there. Just need to track down a meter to be able to read that sort of thing.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hey Ron... I have not. Ever, actually. I hadn't ever really needed to since I got the car, but I'm thinking it might be time I finally figure it out. I've seen a number of threads and videos on the subject so I should be ok there. Just need to track down a meter to be able to read that sort of thing.

You would want to check the dwell before changing the O2 sensor. If something is wrong with the lambda system, it's best to fix it first so the new O2 sensor does not get dirty.

[Jonathan]

You would want to check the dwell before changing the O2 sensor. If something is wrong with the lambda system, it's best to fix it first so the new O2 sensor does not get dirty.

Will do, Dave. I'll track down a dwell meter and see what it says. I suspect this was checked in that first year I had the car (2007) when I had a mechanic doing most things for me. I didn't find any notes about it in any of the paperwork, so maybe not though. It seems like my fuel mileage got a bit worse this summer, but that's only a guess without a working speedo/odo. Last year (going to Dayton and back for example) it was in upwards of 27 MPG and now I think it is closer to 21 MPG.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Will do, Dave. I'll track down a dwell meter and see what it says. I suspect this was checked in that first year I had the car (2007) when I had a mechanic doing most things for me. I didn't find any notes about it in any of the paperwork, so maybe not though. It seems like my fuel mileage got a bit worse this summer, but that's only a guess without a working speedo/odo. Last year (going to Dayton and back for example) it was in upwards of 27 MPG and now I think it is closer to 21 MPG.

If your dwell is off the correct setting, that will affect MPG and mixture while your engine warms up. Is your adjustment plug cap already drilled out?

[Jonathan]

If your dwell is off the correct setting, that will affect MPG and mixture while your engine warms up. Is your adjustment plug cap already drilled out?

Yes, the tamper proof cap has never been there as long as I've owned the car. I have the plug from DMCH with the little handle and hook coming off it to keep it sealed.

[Jonathan]

Pardon my ignorance, but where exactly is the other end of the oxygen sensor plugged in to?

I thought I knew, but apparently I don't. I had thought it was the one that becomes the blue wire going through the grommet in the firewall, just to the side and below the ballast resistor and which comes into the electrical area behind the driver's seat. It doesn't seem like that's the right one though as the connector isn't the same and the engine side of that one disappears into the centre of the engine (from what I can tell).

I can see my oxygen sensor from above looking down at the exhaust pipe, and the black wire coming off of it disappears into an opening in the frame just in front of the centre line of the left rear wheel, but then I can't see where it goes. I hadn't thought the oxygen sensor wire was very long (two feet?) so didn't think it could be going very far and yet I still can't find it. Does the car need to be up in the air to see or access the connector?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes it the O2 plugs into a connector near the drivers rear wheel. The other side of that connector is a blue (I think) wire that runs to the lambda ECU.

[Horsebox]

You could always reroute the oxygen sensor wire so that it still goes through the bulkhead to the lambda ECU, but has a connection that is easy to get at in the engine bay. Makes troubleshooting the lambda system much easier. No more scrabbling around underneath the car trying to find when the lambda sensor cable goes.

[DavidProehl]

The NorCal DMC Club went on a drive around Lake Tahoe last weekend. Here is a short (3:20) video I made from the drive:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS4L5iN-t5U

[Jonathan]

A little update:

- I finally found the O2 sensor connector. I confused myself not realizing the engine bay side connector I could see corresponded to the interior side hidden by carpet, and the interior side wire I could see WAS the opposite end of the O2 connector. I jacked the car up and double checked the connection actually by reaching over the top of the wheel while it was suspended. All good there.
- I ordered the Actron CP7605 dwell meter off Amazon and it'll be here next week.
- in the meantime, drove up to my hometown for their car show. Was glad it ended at 9 pm and not any later, like say 10:04 pm... considering where I parked that is. :)

35654

[DavidProehl]

I installed new silverstar headlights and the new pump/sender combo unit.

Old:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35709&stc=1

New:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35710&stc=1

Car idling without any issues and only 2 gallons of gas in the tank. Never would have run properly this low on gas before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35711&stc=1

[MML]

I installed new silverstar headlights and the new pump/sender combo unit.

New:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35710&stc=1




I gotta get me one of these.

[DavidProehl]

I gotta get me one of these.

That is what I've been saying for years. What finally got me to pull the trigger was another round of stuttering and issues with my stock setup even after I had replaced the stock internals with OEM style replacements. When that happened, my wife didn't want to ride in the car again for a long while for fear of being stranded. I'm hopeful this is the permanent solution.

[Silverbullet]

I put the combo unit in over 3 years ago, it has been awesome! I did put in the external check valve, never had an issue, but it can't hurt...

Craig

[Ryan S.]

I installed new silverstar headlights and the new pump/sender combo unit.




Did you have to clean the tank? Wasn't it fun?

[DavidProehl]

I put the combo unit in over 3 years ago, it has been awesome! I did put in the external check valve, never had an issue, but it can't hurt...

Craig

Now they ship the kits with the check valve pre-installed in the feed line. Given the history of the one built into the pump, it is mandatory.


Did you have to clean the tank? Wasn't it fun?

Yes, I gave the tank a cleaning. I did a full cleaning a few years back when I replaced all the internals the first time so this was more of a touch up. There was some rubber that deteriorated from the original boot, but not a lot. I still cleaned it out again with acetone, used the shop vac to pick up any small particulates, and did the white glove test to make sure I got it all. Not half as bad as when I did it a few years back. There was thick goo I had to scrape out back then.

[bfloyd]

My car is finally starting to look like a road-worthy car once again.
New calipers and pads all the way around put on last week. Bought 4 new tires this week... General Altimax RT43's (195-60R-14's) on the front, and Cooper Cobra Radial GT's (235-60R15's) on the rear. Had them all mounted black wall out.

Also new this week... my new DMC two-tone leather seat covers. They turned out amazing if I do say so myself.
http://i.imgur.com/jmsqJmE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JFLzxnb.jpg

[Alan]

My car is finally starting to look like a road-worthy car once again.
New calipers and pads all the way around put on last week. Bought 4 new tires this week... General Altimax RT43's (195-60R-14's) on the front, and Cooper Cobra Radial GT's (235-60R15's) on the rear. Had them all mounted black wall out.

Also new this week... my new DMC two-tone leather seat covers. They turned out amazing if I do say so myself.
http://i.imgur.com/jmsqJmE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JFLzxnb.jpg
Nice job.

[DMC-81]

I installed new silverstar headlights and the new pump/sender combo unit.

New:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35710&stc=1



Very nice. I had one of these units already installed when I bought the car, so I didn't experience the old set up. However, I definitely recommend it based on my experience so far.

How do you like the silverstars? I bought them as well but haven't installed them yet.

[DMC-81]

My car is finally starting to look like a road-worthy car once again.
New calipers and pads all the way around put on last week. Bought 4 new tires this week... General Altimax RT43's (195-60R-14's) on the front, and Cooper Cobra Radial GT's (235-60R15's) on the rear. Had them all mounted black wall out.

Also new this week... my new DMC two-tone leather seat covers. They turned out amazing if I do say so myself.


Yes, they do look amazing! :thumbup2: I like the two tone version.

[mburshtain]

Powder coated my wheels
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/01/5b4dafc486cfef38f222b88a8edc1e7f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Nice!

I bet you just can't wait to baptize them with the first coating of brake dust. 😜

[novadmc]

drove it today, but more recently, replaced the alternator and swapped out all the fuses.
turns out the alternator i had on the car was a Paris Rhone unit (guessing 75A). replaced it with the Autozone cross ref '91 Saturn 96Amp unit and simply swapped pulleys. no issues to report. constant 13v+ at idle even with AC going at stop lights. I'm happy.

glad i swapped fuses. most had a good amount of oxidation on the contacts. #11 (30A) hadn't blown but was showing signs of failure with the plastic starting to bubble and even deform/melt (hopefully due to said oxidation on the fuse contacts). no damage to the fuse box itself to note.

35827

[refugeefromcalif]

Not a thing. I ordered and was going to install a new alternator this weekend.
Based on original tracking info from DMCMW, I should have received my new alternator yesterday, (Friday), and I was expecting to install it this weekend.
UPS Updated the tracking info to a Monday delivery date. :question:
I live in central Alabama and for some reason, UPS decided to send it from Nashville to the coast of Alabama, and then send it back up north to me... :ehh:

George

[DavidProehl]

Very nice. I had one of these units already installed when I bought the car, so I didn't experience the old set up. However, I definitely recommend it based on my experience so far.

How do you like the silverstars? I bought them as well but haven't installed them yet.

I haven't had it out at night yet with them, but daytime in the garage they look great. Much brighter than the standard sylvanias, and white light rather than yellow light which I prefer both from an aesthetics and visibility standpoint.

[Tillsy]

The good - #6679 was the star at a Back to the Future themed gala the other night. Result was spectacular per the photos below. :)

The bad - they did not disclose that, rather than being a static display, they would now have actors get in and out of the car throughout the night as part of their performance nor did security get on stage quick enough at end of evening so a few drunks got in. End result from this treatment was a seized door - was not fun climbing in through passenger side and spending god knows how many hours dismantling the door, getting it open, and getting it (mostly) working again... :(

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35828&d=1438480761

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35829&d=1438480764

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35830&d=1438480768

[toyotafreak88]

The good - #6679 was the star at a Back to the Future themed gala the other night. Result was spectacular per the photos below. :)

The bad - they did not disclose that, rather than being a static display, they would now have actors get in and out of the car throughout the night as part of their performance nor did security get on stage quick enough at end of evening so a few drunks got in. End result from this treatment was a seized door - was not fun climbing in through passenger side and spending god knows how many hours dismantling the door, getting it open, and getting it (mostly) working again... :(



looks awesome! Sounds horrid... I would send them an invoice for damages done, that sucks.

[novadmc]

installed DMCH's LED tail light boards/lights & included relay.
Installed SpecialT Auto's grounding kit.

35847

I routed the cables in such a way that they wouldn't sit below the transmission. In doing so, the way they went, i had to trim a few inches off the splash guard when reinstalling it to make room for the cables. A piece of silicone hose covers them where they lay against the coolant pipe (no pressure on the pipe, just touching it) to prevent rubbing/wear of the pipe or the wires.

now i have a spare set of pretty great condition DeLorean One incandescent tail light boards/bulbs (not that i plan to ever go back to them)
35848

[Flicky]

Getting ready to install another fun addition. I won't frighten you with a picture of my dash modifications yet.

35866

[DavidProehl]

After sitting in a box for 2 years, I finally installed Bitsyncmaster's LED dimmer module. Love it! Finally have the stock dimming functionality again!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-dZQUWykvQ

[DMC5180]

Car idling without any issues and only 2 gallons of gas in the tank. Never would have run properly this low on gas before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35711&stc=1

David, have you turned of the lambda light yet?


Dennis

[DavidProehl]

David, have you turned of the lambda light yet?


Dennis

Yes, I reset the lambda counter and replaced the grease in it. All set to go!

[DMC5180]

Yes, I reset the lambda counter and replaced the grease in it. All set to go!

👍

[DavidProehl]



I should add that I also replaced my plugs, cap, rotor and wires not long ago. I still need to replace my O2 sensor, the original is baked in there. I'm planning to take it to a local shop to have them help remove it before I round the edges.

[DMC5180]

Yeah, the only success I've had removing the O2 sensor, was by using a box end wrench and smacking the end with a heavy hammer. I've never had any luck with the open side sockets.

[Alan]

Today I put on my recently acquired, used, re-keyed, and rehabbed locking gas cap. I put it on to show it off at a high school robotics club fundraising car show... and I won spectator's choice award. It's the first award I've ever won at a car show. It was a good day.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yeah, the only success I've had removing the O2 sensor, was by using a box end wrench and smacking the end with a heavy hammer. I've never had any luck with the open side sockets.

If your installing a new sensor, you can break the old one off the top with a hammer and then use a regular socket if you have room.

[DavidProehl]

Today I put on my recently acquired, used, re-keyed, and rehabbed locking gas cap. I put it on to show it off at a high school robotics club fundraising car show... and I won spectator's choice award. It's the first award I've ever won at a car show. It was a good day.

Congrats! Have any pictures from the show?


If your installing a new sensor, you can break the old one off the top with a hammer and then use a regular socket if you have room.

That is a great idea, but what happens if I still can't get it off? What happens if I don't have a working O2 sensor? Will the car run too rich or lean for me to be able to get to a shop?

[Bitsyncmaster]

That is a great idea, but what happens if I still can't get it off? What happens if I don't have a working O2 sensor? Will the car run too rich or lean for me to be able to get to a shop?

With the sensor disconnected, your lambda ECU defaults to 50% duty cycle so you would run a little rich if it was properly adjusted before you disconnected it.

[bfloyd]

It's been a very busy and expensive 10 months... but DMC #3294 is officially back on the road. My cold starting issue was easily fixed with a 1/4 turn adjustment on the fuel / air mixture.

This is how it looked when we bought it.
http://i.imgur.com/SnEGnoC.jpg

Here's what we finished up with this afternoon.
http://i.imgur.com/9OhX2Eh.jpg

Kind of proud how the rear bumper turned out. Sanded it down, then applied 1 coat of SEM trim black, then went over that with a satin finish Duplicolor black bumper paint. The new stainless DPI bumper letters ended up being the icing on the cake.
http://i.imgur.com/fR24TyB.jpg

[Alan]

Congrats! Have any pictures from the show?

You know, somewhat embarrassingly, I don't. This is the 3rd time I've had 1121 out to show. I've meant to bring my DSLR all 3 times and have forgotten it each time. I could, of course, use my cell phone, but I'm so wrapped up showing the car I forget to do that, too.

It really is true that the general public loves DeLoreans. Everyone stops, looks, talks, and takes pictures... so there's a LOT of talking.

In addition, for us, we encourage people who are REALLY interested to get in and have pictures taken. I know many owners will balk at that, but Colleen and I consider ourselves custodians of a well known and we'll loved piece of automotive history. We get excited by how excited and happy people are just seeing the car. It's even better for both them and us when they can get their pictures taken inside. We love it.

So... with the talking, educating, and helping people with pictures, it makes it difficult to just go and enjoy the show.

[DMC5180]

In addition, for us, we encourage people who are REALLY interested to get in and have pictures taken. I know many owners will balk at that, but Colleen and I consider ourselves custodians of a well known and we'll loved piece of automotive history. We get excited by how excited and happy people are just seeing the car. It's even better for both them and us when they can get their pictures taken inside. We love it.
.

+1

However, if the first words out of there mouth is a BTTF wisecrack. I usually don't extend the offer. It kinda depends on the attitude of the individual after that if I make the offer or not.

[Alan]

+1

However, if the first words out of there mouth is a BTTF wisecrack. I usually don't extend the offer. It kinda depends on the attitude of the individual after that if I make the offer or not.
I completely agree about the attitude. I don't automatically dismiss anyone who starts with BTTF, though. If all they're doing is cracking wise or being a-holes, definitely dismissed. If they have a real love of the movie or are just using it genuinely to break the ice I'm still good. It IS how much of the general public is introduced to the car.

[DMC5180]

I completely agree about the attitude. I don't automatically dismiss anyone who starts with BTTF, though. If all they're doing is cracking wise or being a-holes, definitely dismissed. If they have a real love of the movie or are just using it genuinely to break the ice I'm still good. It IS how much of the general public is introduced to the car.

I do have the stealth FC in the car to throw back at them if I so choose.

Interestingly enough I don't get the coke remarks hardly at all anymore. Aging demographic I guess.

[MTDMC]

Met the previous owners who I bought my Delorean from. They were very happy how nice the car still looks and they know it's being well taken care of. They also gave me a stack of old Delorean World magazines. After that I went for a drive.

[DavidProehl]

Tried starting the car for the first time since installing the LED dimmer relay. Everything seems to look and sound fine (fuel pump primes, dash lights up, etc), except there is no starter on the turn, just a relay click. Crossing my fingers that it is just a low battery, but now I'm scared I may have bumped something I shouldn't have back there. I've doubled checked the #9 relay connections they all look good.

I returned the relay wiring to stock again and am charging the battery. May need to start a thread on this if I get it charged and don't have any luck.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yeah, the only success I've had removing the O2 sensor, was by using a box end wrench and smacking the end with a heavy hammer. I've never had any luck with the open side sockets.

Use a torch to heat it.


Sent from phone

[DMC5180]

Use a torch to heat it.


Sent from phone

Of coarse, if I had one at the time I would of used it. 😜

[Riley88]

Found out my clutch is all going to shit. More money to throw at my cash cow D lol

[novadmc]

Installed LEDs in the license plate lights (I hate the brackets in the bumper for those light housings)
And installed LEDs in the dome lights. Guess I'll need to be ordering a led compatible relay if I don't want to be turning the dome lights on and off manually.

Also have LEDs to go in the dash, and replace all but the batt light. I just need to find time to take out the binnacle.

[Jonathan]

Found out my clutch is all going to shit. More money to throw at my cash cow D lol

You ever heard what they call a pool in your backyard? A hole in the ground you throw money into.

And a boat? A hole in the water you throw money into.

I think the DeLorean is the hole in the garage we throw money into.

[novadmc]

knocked a few small things out the other day

painted the frunk. and window cowling. both were faded/dirty and just made the front of the car look worn when the hood was up. now it looks just shy of factory fresh.
also replaced the windwhield wiper arms as they were faded/pitting

36055 36056 36057


Also finally replaced the dome lights with LEDs only thing left to switch over to LEDs is the binnacle. (ignoring the glovebox light and headlights)

36058

no LED compatible timer yet (I'll be contacting you eventually, bitsyncmaster!) so I just have to manually turn the lights on and off. not that big of an issue for me though.

[durech]

knocked a few small things out the other day

painted the frunk. and window cowling. both were faded/dirty and just made the front of the car look worn when the hood was up. now it looks just shy of factory fresh.
also replaced the windwhield wiper arms as they were faded/pitting

36055 36056 36057


Also finally replaced the dome lights with LEDs only thing left to switch over to LEDs is the binnacle. (ignoring the glovebox light and headlights)

36058

no LED compatible timer yet (I'll be contacting you eventually, bitsyncmaster!) so I just have to manually turn the lights on and off. not that big of an issue for me though.

Your paint job looks really good. What paint did you use??

As to your dome lighting not working...

If you just remove the existing "dimming" replaying (the white one), your interior lights will immediately go on when a door is opened and immediately go off when the door is closed. If all you are trying to accomplish is having the interior light on when you open your door (and go off when it is shut), this is a quick, easy and inexpensive solution. For me, I have selected this solution. I heard of another solution, but have not tried it. If you want dimming, but don't want to buy Dave's dimmer. Replace one of the lights with an LED and leave the other as an Incandescent. The incandescent should provide enough resistance in the circuit to allow the existing dimming relay to work. I would think only the incandescent would dim, while the LED would just be on/off, but again, I have no experience with this alternate solution. Even if it does work, the drain on your battery will increase because of the incandescent (can't say how much though)


Dennis

[novadmc]

Your paint job looks really good. What paint did you use??

As to your dome lighting not working...

If you just remove the existing "dimming" replaying (the white one), your interior lights will immediately go on when a door is opened and immediately go off when the door is closed. If all you are trying to accomplish is having the interior light on when you open your door (and go off when it is shut), this is a quick, easy and inexpensive solution. For me, I have selected this solution. I heard of another solution, but have not tried it. If you want dimming, but don't want to buy Dave's dimmer. Replace one of the lights with an LED and leave the other as an Incandescent. The incandescent should provide enough resistance in the circuit to allow the existing dimming relay to work. I would think only the incandescent would dim, while the LED would just be on/off, but again, I have no experience with this alternate solution. Even if it does work, the drain on your battery will increase because of the incandescent (can't say how much though)


Dennis

thanks! i used SEM trim black. first i removed the wipers, and cowl, then vacuumed everything, masked and taped off anything i didnt want to get paint on. then sanded lightly. next i wiped everything down with acetone. wiped the cowl down with isopropyl alcohol. hit some areas with some primer that would needed it then did several light to medium coats of trim black. in between coats id spray the cowl since i had that in my backyard to spray. and vice versa.

hardest part of the whole ordeal was just prepping and covering up everything. (and keeping the tape to keep the trunk light off. yeah its an LED but still... shoulda just pulled the bulb :) ).


Yea i may just pull the current dimmer relay. I do plan on eventually getting Dave's relay (as well as his RPM relay for my own piece of mind) but really, so long as the lights go out when the doors are shut, i dont care if its instant or delayed.
I had one incandescent bulb in one of the dome lights that was providing the 2nd solution you mentioned, but i wanted LED simply because i could.

[Jonathan]

knocked a few small things out the other day

painted the frunk. and window cowling. both were faded/dirty and just made the front of the car look worn when the hood was up. now it looks just shy of factory fresh.
also replaced the windwhield wiper arms as they were faded/pitting...

the FRUNK?

man, that's funny. I'm gonna have to use that :)

[Morpheus]

VERY nice job!

[Rich_NYS]

I replaced the accelerator pedal cover and began stripping the interior. It was kinda satisfying, probably due to my car being on stands in "restoration idle" mode for the past 3 months.

I'm getting caught up on priorities and will soon be in "active restoration" mode!

I also opened a few parts shipments (from a few months ago) and organized things a bit....it felt like Christmas in August.

[skill]

novadmc (http://dmctalk.org/member.php?49615-novadmc) , Excellent job on the frunk! A+ Nice placement on the labels too! +Like

[novadmc]

novadmc (http://dmctalk.org/member.php?49615-novadmc) , Excellent job on the frunk! A+ Nice placement on the labels too! +Like

Thanks! now to hopefully not ruin it in the next few weeks since i now have to replace my clutch master cylinder. bled the system back in May and now Ive noticed some fluid dripping from the seals at the back of the cylinder down a the footwell.

[Alan]

After 2 months of ownership, we finally got her proper plate.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/18/e594c2d78fd8a255af22c70228e0c166.jpg

[DMC-81]

After 2 months of ownership, we finally got her proper plate.

Very nice car! I like the plate choice.

[DMC-81]

Today I re-installed the fuel tank closing plate which needed touch ups on the inside due to the familiar brake master cylinder leak.

36220

Now I can focus on the rear suspension and brakes.

[novadmc]

replaced the clutch's master cylinder.
The hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder was old and brittle and weeping. I didn't have a proper EPDM hose on hand but did have some clear 3/8" I.D. PVC hose.
I figured if clear PVC's good enough for bleeding should be good for a interim hose. especially since it's low pressure. test drive seemed to be happy (no audible grinding of gears).
Now to see how it goes over the next few days to make sure i bled it all sufficiently.

[DMC-81]

Working on the rear suspension......

36312

[DMC5180]

Do you plan on actually driving the car when your done or just put in a sealed vault? I can't get over how clean and flawless it looks.

Oh wait that rotor retaining screw is rusty! My kinda car now😜

Dennis

[DMC-81]

Do you plan on actually driving the car when your done or just put in a sealed vault? I can't get over how clean and flawless it looks.

Oh wait that rotor retaining screw is rusty! My kinda car now

Dennis

Thank you Dennis. :thankyou: Definitely! This car is my passion, and I'm somewhat of a perfectionist in my restoration. I'm taking my time, and hopefully doing it right. I haven't even driven it yet, besides a yard drive at DMCFL (where I bought it as a project), and driving it down the street when it was delivered two years ago..... I decided to do a thorough mechanical restoration on it before I attempt to drive it. By now, it's almost roadworthy (I don't have too much free time, so I'm slow). I plan to show it at Celebration, FL next year, and then drive and enjoy it afterwards. It was a one owner car that needed a full "rubber" restoration... and cleaning 32 years of Georgia mud off the underside.

That rotor retaining screw is yet to be done. A 15 sec bath in Muriatic acid, followed by a baking soda bath, and then satin black and it will be good as new! :wrenchin: :smile:

Cheers,
Dana

[Morpheus]

Looks great, Dana!

Can't wait to see your progress @ Celebration this year!

[Morpheus]

I started removing my exhaust in preparation for the Manifold gasket adventure this weekend.
36316363173631836319

Good times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bitsyncmaster]

Was just at the hardware store and bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer (electronic unit) so I could use it for measuring temps on the DeLorean. It only cost $8.99 and can record the min and max temps. I wanted it to measure the temps in the relay compartment. I also can use it measure the AC vent temps which I now use a dial thermometer but it is hard to read when driving the car.

This unit is made by Taylor and outside temp range of -40 to 158 deg. F

[88KPH]

Fitted the second front lower control with its new polybushes and ball-joints.....

Looking forward to testing the improvement. :mechbull:

[DavidProehl]

Busted my passenger side torsion bar. Happened while sitting in the garage unattended. I wasn't nearby apparently when it blew since I didn't hear the shotgun like blast. This is my SECOND busted torsion bar! My driver's side broke about a year after I bought the car.

I'm attributing it to a previous owner over cranking them. Both were way too tight. After the first blew I reduced the tension on the other, but I'm guessing the damage to the bar was already done at that point.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36352&stc=1

[DMC5180]

Bummer! Unfortunately the torsion bars are under about 180 degrees of twist when the door is closed which is 99% of the time for the last 34 and counting years.

Speaking of torsion bars, I have not heard how the remanufactured driver side bars are holding up. I know DMCH has had one in a car for a few years know.

[DavidProehl]

Bummer! Unfortunately the torsion bars are under about 180 degrees of twist when the door is closed which is 99% of the time for the last 34 and counting years.

Speaking of torsion bars, I have not heard how the remanufactured driver side bars are holding up. I know DMCH has had one in a car for a few years know.

Not sure about the drivers side bars. They were brand new (as in about a month on the market) when I replaced my drivers side. Since they didn't have a track record, I went with a bar from a parts car. I've heard rumor and hearsay that small lines have developed on some of them, possibly a protective coating cracking, but according to rumor the bars themselves have held up well. Again, I can't speak to the new bars first hand.

[DMC5180]

Yeah probably the silver paint showing stress cracks. I would expect that.

[SS Spoiler]

Question?....if the bars are stainless steel, would polishing them to a high
shine eliminate the stress risers from forming?

[DMC5180]

Question?....if the bars are stainless steel, would polishing them to a high
shine eliminate the stress risers from forming?

Good question for a metallurgist. But polishing removes a micro layer of surface material.

[Nicholas R]

Polishing the surface is very good, especially for shafts or other parts in fatigue. Cracks always start at the surface and need a stress hot spot to propagate from. Polishing helps prevent hot spots.

However, I was under the impression that the *new* driver side torsion bars are not stainless steel like the originals. I believe I remember hearing that they were a steel alloy that was powder coated. I also remember hearing about and seeing pictures of the powder coating cracking on one of the new ones, and small corrosion indications appearing. This was on one of the DMCH cars that was sporting one of the new bars; either the stage III or the EV car, I cant remember. Thats not to say that the new ones are not nice, probably just need to keep an eye on them.

[aotmfilms]

Door bulbs and airfilter earlier this month, easy stuff.

Still learning about my D.

[Farrar]

I threw a bunch of crap in the engine compartment without actually fastening anything, put it back on the ground, and covered it. Giving up on it for now.

[papanoel]

well this thing rolled into my rearend at the jersey shore yesterday. no visible damage thankfully.

http://i.imgur.com/GNl7yIZ.jpg

[Jonathan]

well this thing rolled into my rearend at the jersey shore yesterday. no visible damage thankfully.

http://i.imgur.com/GNl7yIZ.jpg

Wow, good for you if you got that lucky. Expensive repairs could come from getting hit by a Smart car from behind, much less by this thing.

Give a close look to the muffler brackets (one on the left, two on the right side) as they tend to break over time anyway and a jolt like that could have started a crack in one of them. The upper one on the right seems to be the one that breaks most often.

[Ryan S.]

OMG. That is awful. Good thing that it didn't happen while driving.
What are you going to do?


Busted my passenger side torsion bar. Happened while sitting in the garage unattended. I wasn't nearby apparently when it blew since I didn't hear the shotgun like blast. This is my SECOND busted torsion bar! My driver's side broke about a year after I bought the car.

I'm attributing it to a previous owner over cranking them. Both were way too tight. After the first blew I reduced the tension on the other, but I'm guessing the damage to the bar was already done at that point.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36352&stc=1

[DavidProehl]

OMG. That is awful. Good thing that it didn't happen while driving.
What are you going to do?

About the only thing I can do, replace it. I'll be getting a NOS bar. I am a little suspicious that I may be getting one for my birthday on Friday. My wife is very much aware of the pains of entering and exiting the passenger's side without a torsion bar. Funny how it took 2 months to get the driver's side prioritized when that broke. :)

If I get one this week as I suspect, I'll be soliciting for volunteers to help with the install, and am willing to travel to said volunteers!

[Ryan S.]

You are so lucky. That thing is big!!! D is no match for that typical Texan truck. One of my co-worker on a bike just got ran over by a truck and in a serious condition. It was a hit and run also. Stupid idiots... Need to watch where they are going. Caught the MF and in jail now.


well this thing rolled into my rearend at the jersey shore yesterday. no visible damage thankfully.

http://i.imgur.com/GNl7yIZ.jpg

[Ryan S.]

Let me know when and where. I'll help. Mine is still in LA and hope to get it back soon.


About the only thing I can do, replace it. I'll be getting a NOS bar. I am a little suspicious that I may be getting one for my birthday on Friday. My wife is very much aware of the pains of entering and exiting the passenger's side without a torsion bar. Funny how it took 2 months to get the driver's side prioritized when that broke. :)

If I get one this week as I suspect, I'll be soliciting for volunteers to help with the install, and am willing to travel to said volunteers!

[Jonathan]

About the only thing I can do, replace it. I'll be getting a NOS bar. I am a little suspicious that I may be getting one for my birthday on Friday. My wife is very much aware of the pains of entering and exiting the passenger's side without a torsion bar. Funny how it took 2 months to get the driver's side prioritized when that broke. :)

If I get one this week as I suspect, I'll be soliciting for volunteers to help with the install, and am willing to travel to said volunteers!

Pretty awesome birthday gift David!

The passenger side versus the driver's side is sorta like how I think of how big the back seat is on a car I might purchase (for a DD). I don't care because I don't sit back there!!!

(granted a wee bit different on a two-seater when your wife is the one suffering :) Good luck on the install!)

[papanoel]

Wow, good for you if you got that lucky. Expensive repairs could come from getting hit by a Smart car from behind, much less by this thing.

Give a close look to the muffler brackets (one on the left, two on the right side) as they tend to break over time anyway and a jolt like that could have started a crack in one of them. The upper one on the right seems to be the one that breaks most often.

Yeah I'm gonna give it a more thorough check tonight. I didn't see anything wrong initially but I was also trying really hard not to get pissed. Thankfully it was very slow impact and straight on.

We were stopped in traffic and this person was stopped behind me as well. I think she took a look at her cellphone and let go of the brake. I saw it coming in the rearview but I only had time to let go of the brake and I always leave enough space in front of me.


You are so lucky. That thing is big!!! D is no match for that typical Texan truck. One of my co-worker on a bike just got ran over by a truck and in a serious condition. It was a hit and run also. Stupid idiots... Need to watch where they are going. Caught the MF and in jail now.

Thats terrible I hope your co-worker recovers fully.

[Dutch]

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Dutch

[Shuttleman]

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[Shuttleman]

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[DMC-81]

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Nice work! :smile:

[Shuttleman]

Thanks, I will show that comment to my wife. When she saw my frame the only thing she said was: "This will be hidden under the car?!"

[Domi]

Amazing job done on the frame, it's beautiful!
Congratulation ;)

[DMC-81]

Cleaned the right rear suspension area, and re-painted the upper control link (and spring cups). I found "O.K." markings in red marker on both hub carriers, so I darkened them a little. Now I'm ready to install new suspension parts....

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[SKnight]

Had DMCNW install the Eibach suspension kit. Also added a stainless shift plate and a (fake) Momo steering wheel.

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[OZ DMC]

Had DMCNW install the Eibach suspension kit. Also added a stainless shift plate and a (fake) Momo steering wheel.

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HI SKnight,

Was it much of an issue installing the Momo wheel and where did you get the DMC name badge for the centre?

[DMC5180]

HI SKnight,

Was it much of an issue installing the Momo wheel and where did you get the DMC name badge for the centre?

DMCMW makes the logo plate and also sells the wheel and adapter as a kit. It's a fairly easy install as long as you have the correct hardware to use with a steering wheel puller. You can usually rent those at an auto parts store if you don't what to by one. The bolts you need for the puller are M6 x 1.00 x 100 mm Long and a couple appropriate sized washers under the bolt heads.

[Alan]

This was actually yesterday. I'm going to appall some of you, I'm sure. ;)

Colleen and I went to dinner and I left 1121 with a valet. It worked out great. She was put in "exotic row" with a Maserati and a number of nice Porsches. She was in the corner so it was only the Maserati right next to her.

This was at a nice place with respectful valets. No, I wouldn't do it just anywhere but I would do it again.

[SKnight]

HI SKnight,

Was it much of an issue installing the Momo wheel and where did you get the DMC name badge for the centre?

I ended up having DMCNW put the wheel on since I already had the car there for other work. There are a few threads out there that discuss how to remove the old wheel and put on the new. Like DMC5180 said, DMCMW makes the logo plate and packages it together with the wheel and adapter, but you can buy them through any of the DMC franchises.

[Domi]

Had DMCNW install the Eibach suspension kit. Also added a stainless shift plate and a (fake) Momo steering wheel.

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CB Radio in front of the passenger seat?

[SKnight]

CB Radio in front of the passenger seat?

Yep, the previous owner put that in. Quite a few of our club members have CB's, we use them to talk to each other when caravanning.

[Jonathan]

The only car I know in which it is understandable why changing a single instrument cluster light bulb can take an entire day.

On the positive side, my oil pressure warning light is back in business. They are a labour of love these cars. Tomorrow I am on vacation, however. :P~

[DMC-81]

Had DMCNW install the Eibach suspension kit. Also added a stainless shift plate and a (fake) Momo steering wheel.


Awesome upgrades! I really like the Momo wheel. :thumbup2:

[DMC-81]

Yesterday and today, I re-assembled my rear calipers and painted my rear rotors, which were turned and bead blasted. I found that rebuilding calipers yourself isn't too bad, I just took my time and ensured the piston pots were clean, especially the groove that the piston seal rides in. I also took several "before" pictures which helped a lot.

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[OZ DMC]

I ended up having DMCNW put the wheel on since I already had the car there for other work. There are a few threads out there that discuss how to remove the old wheel and put on the new. Like DMC5180 said, DMCMW makes the logo plate and packages it together with the wheel and adapter, but you can buy them through any of the DMC franchises.

Thank you for your responses, most helpful.

[Morpheus]

Yesterday and today, I re-assembled my rear calipers and painted my rear rotors, which were turned and bead blasted. I found that rebuilding calipers yourself isn't too bad, I just took my time and ensured the piston pots were clean, especially the groove that the piston seal rides in. I also took several "before" pictures which helped a lot.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36709&stc=1

That looks great! How much was the plating?

[DMC5180]

The only car I know in which it is understandable why changing a single instrument cluster light bulb can take an entire day.

On the positive side, my oil pressure warning light is back in business. They are a labour of love these cars. Tomorrow I am on vacation, however. :P~

So what went so horribly wrong? It normally takes me 5 minutes to remove and maybe 7 minutes to reinstall the binnacle including the duct pieces. Did you also do a bunch of PCB cleaning too?

[DMCMW Dave]

So what went so horribly wrong? It normally takes me 5 minutes to remove and maybe 7 minutes to reinstall the binnacle including the duct pieces. Did you also do a bunch of PCB cleaning too?

Probably not the first time you've done it. . . . . :approve:

[DMC5180]

Probably not the first time you've done it. . . . . :approve:

Soooo, I may have done it 1 or 10 times over the years, but who's counting. :biggrin:

[DMC-81]

That looks great! How much was the plating?

Thanks Brandon! A local company did the plating. The miminum charge is usually $50.00, and the total charge varies on how much plating you have, and whether you need blasting or decide to do masking (of the piston pots etc.).... Likely around 100 for just the calipers with masking.

I decided to do one large order for the engine and rear end parts & fasteners of clear and yellow zinc (with masking and blasting). All the parts pictured in my "miscellaneous" album was around $500..... much cheaper than getting all new parts, if you can get them (e.g. crankshaft pulley). Another example, a small engine part - the timing plate 102762 - is $92.00 new.

Cheers,

[SKnight]

Awesome upgrades! I really like the Momo wheel. :thumbup2:

Thanks, the Momo has ended up being one of the best upgrades I've made so far! It looks great and combined with the new suspension, almost makes it seem like I'm driving a different car. :smile:

[Shuttleman]

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[durech]

DMCMW makes the logo plate and also sells the wheel and adapter as a kit. It's a fairly easy install as long as you have the correct hardware to use with a steering wheel puller. You can usually rent those at an auto parts store if you don't what to by one. The bolts you need for the puller are M6 x 1.00 x 100 mm Long and a couple appropriate sized washers under the bolt heads.

What is the cost of the complete steering wheel package?? Wheel, adapter & logo plate

[SKnight]

What is the cost of the complete steering wheel package?? Wheel, adapter & logo plate

DMCNW packaged the whole thing to me for around $295 I believe. That included the knock-off Momo wheel, adapter, and logo plate.

[Michael Babb]

Knocked out a few items last night that had ben bothering me:

Recharged AC - nice having cold air again!
Drivers door adjustment, door was sticking on front pin
And, the surround around both of my drop windows were getting pretty worn and nasty:
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So I taped up both sides and re-painted the surround with Rustoleum satin finish black:
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And here is the final with all tape removed:
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[vps3922]

knocked a few small things out the other day

painted the frunk. and window cowling. both were faded/dirty and just made the front of the car look worn when the hood was up. now it looks just shy of factory fresh.
also replaced the windwhield wiper arms as they were faded/pitting

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Also finally replaced the dome lights with LEDs only thing left to switch over to LEDs is the binnacle. (ignoring the glovebox light and headlights)

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no LED compatible timer yet (I'll be contacting you eventually, bitsyncmaster!) so I just have to manually turn the lights on and off. not that big of an issue for me though.

Awesome paint job!

I got Dave's dimmer module for my LEDs and it works like a charm. I also added foot-well lighting into the LED circuit and it dims them as well. Well built product and worth having if you want to give the interior lighting the old/modern feel.

[johnyrottin]

4846 got:

The biggest project was the brakes. Getting the original hoses out of the hex holder brackets was a nightmare. Once they were out we replaced all 4 corners with stainless braided lines and rebuilt the calipers with stainless steel pistons. One piston was really stuck fast. Some garage engineering found a way to get it out! Way ground a small notch on both sides, slide a large washer into the notches, and used a ball joint fork to turn the washer, thus turning the piston. We also replaced the brake master cylinder.

While we were under the car we inspected the complete frame. It looks amazingly clean...except one spot. The standard brake master leak had recently started so some of the epoxy had bubbled. We scraped the tank plate all down and ground off what we could then POR15 and painted every tiny spot on the frame we could find. Ace Hardware Medium Gray 17076 was a pretty spot on match for color. While were at it I hit some suspension parts with some black rust reformer to keep that under control as well. POR15 was like water and went on really thin so I did a couple coats. Wear gloves because its drippy! One tip Marty gave me on the POR15: don't open the top just poke a small hole in it and cover it with a small bit of duct tape then saran wrap. That will keep it usable for a looooong time.

We put some 90 weight gear oil in the steering rack and smoothed out the steering. Nice touch Marty!

We put in new pigtails for the front marker lights. One of them was pretty destroyed and needed replacement so we did both. I already had LEDs all the way around that Ian Y. and I did earlier.

Marty showed me how to rebuild a mode switch and the magical way a Zen master can reach into the dash and feel his way through the removal and replacement. That was a joyful task but it turns so smoothly now. That turning smoothness came from Marty's attention to detail. He hand polished the aluminum face inside the mode switch itself. That, my friends, is passion!

We installed the stainless steel three screw strips on both sides that hold the two aluminum inspection/protection plates. That one was quick and easy.

Thanks again Marty!

[novadmc]

Awesome paint job!

thanks! hopefully the paint holds up!



Today i replaced the driver's side axle flange and seal with parts from PJGrady.

hopefully no more transmission leaks now that this is done!
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[DMC-81]

Today was a loooong day but I got the business end of the car completed:

Here are the parts that I started the morning with (DMC EU adjustable shocks, lower links converted by Marty Maier, lowering springs, re-waxed rubber insulator, and re-painted spring cups):

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Here are the end results. I also installed the previously completed brake rotor and calipers:

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Yesterday, I installed the front shocks as well. Up next is bleeding the brakes.... :wrenchin:

[Shuttleman]

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Today was a loooong day but I got the business end of the car completed:

Here are the parts that I started the morning with (DMC EU adjustable shocks, lower links converted by Marty Maier, lowering springs, re-waxed rubber insulator, and re-painted spring cups):

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Here are the end results. I also installed the previously completed brake rotor and calipers:

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Yesterday, I installed the front shocks as well. Up next is bleeding the brakes.... :wrenchin:

Good job :thumbup: