What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Gregadeth]

After 20 years of dreaming, 2 to 3 years scouring through ads, 9 local cars checked out, and 6 test drives, I finally purchased my own DeLorean! :yesss:

First off I think I owe the forum some pics:
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Today I took care of a couple things, and then took it out for the first drive around town. I love driving it, and plan on doing it a lot! That's why I bought it.

First order of business was taking care of fuse #7 (fuel pump, etc):
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The fuse can't even be pulled out, it's baked in. I cut the wires under the fuse and soldered in a fuse holder. Let the car run for a while to see if it would get hot, and the new fuse stayed cool. I forgot to take a pic afterwards, but I used something like this: http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/images/maxi/maxi_holder.gif

Pulled out each and every fuse (except #7 - see above) and sandpapered them.
Correct me if I'm wrong but fuses #4 and #18 should be 20amp. Any reason why I should leave these at 10?

Couple more pics of my relay/fuse compartment:
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Please let me know if anything needs to be addressed.

Explored my front compartment area, mostly to see what I have underneath there, and give it a basic cleaning/wipe down.
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Fuel pump cover looks like it isn't fully seated. But I believe I've read that this is a common thing? Is this something I need to take care of or ok to leave as-is?
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Things looked ok in these areas (I think?), just very dirty.
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I cleaned up this connection. Guessing it's a ground for the cooling fans?
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I plan on going through and cleaning all the main ground locations in the near future. Already order a new set of tires but haven't received them yet. Vacuumed the interior and luggage compartment. Also went to re-fuel (mostly to see if my fuel gauge works). It was very slow to respond, but it eventually went up to Full in a few minutes so it's accurate. Speedo and oil pressure gauges have a bounce going on, but the rest of the gauges look good. Oh yeah, I also sandpapered the connections at the ballast resistor. Checked the usual stuff, oil / brake / clutch levels, air filter, etc. I can't seem to get the bottom of the coil cover back on (the black cover in the front right corner of the engine compartment).

Question before I forget: When I turn the key on (not start), I noticed only the battery and brake lights come on, on the right side. The Lambda, Oil, and Fuel lights do not. Is this normal or do I need to check bulbs?

Thanks!!!
Greg

[Jonathan]

Congrats Greg! Looks really nice!

The previous owner looked to be someone who took care of the car. I can see the end of a back-up trunk release cable in one of your pics. Have a look in under the driver footwell and see what the other end looks like.

You've got some 'Zilla products there in the fuse relay area. I'm not familiar with them, so others can chime in on whether any of those required different fuses. Looks like you've at least got the Fanzilla one and one for the door locks too.

The lights you see when turning the key are almost ok. You won't see the Lambda light in a test, not unless it already hit 30,000 miles and is trying to come on. Likewise with the low fuel light. It will only come on when the fuel tank is low. You should definitely see the battery light come on and it needs to be to ensure the charging system is working properly. The brake light will only come on if you have the parking brake lever pulled up, or if there is a low level of fluid in the reservoir. There is a test button on top of the brake fluid reservoir you can use, but my experience with this circuit is that between the parking brake lever switch and the wiring, it can sometimes have a mind of its own. You should see the oil pressure light come on though when only in accessories with the key. Think of it as the car being in normal operating condition from a sensor and instrument point of view, but the engine isn't on, thus no oil pressure.

Cleaning grounds is a good idea. The electrical gauges bouncing can point to a dirty ground. The speedo bouncing would be something else non-electrical, but not unusual. Maybe the dust cap slipping, maybe an angle drive problem. You can put a small amount of lube (gear oil) in the angle drive as part of regular maintenance and see if that helps.

I would have a closer look at the fuel pump and cover. That rubber cover isn't really any kind of pressure seal and that metallic clamping ring you see part of is for the pump and boot one layer underneath. You can safely fold up a corner of that rubber cover and see what is going on. If the pump and boot aren't all the way into the tank and there is a slight opening for air or fuel, you will find out when filling the tank as it can end up tricking the shut-off mechanism at the gas pump when it doesn't sense the back pressure.

That bottom corner of the coil cover might never firmly fit into any groove or clip. They didn't fit terribly well, not on the bottom side anyway. See if you can snug it into the grooves on the sides and around the wiring and then the clip somewhat keeps the top of it in place.

[DMC-81]

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Good job :thumbup:

Thanks! :smile:

[DMC-81]

After 20 years of dreaming, 2 to 3 years scouring through ads, 9 local cars checked out, and 6 test drives, I finally purchased my own DeLorean! :yesss:



Congrats on the car Greg! It looks solid! :thumbup2:

[Domi]

Congratulation on your purchase Greg :thumbup2:
What VIN did you purchased?

[Gregadeth]

Congrats Greg! Looks really nice!

The previous owner looked to be someone who took care of the car. I can see the end of a back-up trunk release cable in one of your pics. Have a look in under the driver footwell and see what the other end looks like.

You've got some 'Zilla products there in the fuse relay area. I'm not familiar with them, so others can chime in on whether any of those required different fuses. Looks like you've at least got the Fanzilla one and one for the door locks too.

The lights you see when turning the key are almost ok. You won't see the Lambda light in a test, not unless it already hit 30,000 miles and is trying to come on. Likewise with the low fuel light. It will only come on when the fuel tank is low. You should definitely see the battery light come on and it needs to be to ensure the charging system is working properly. The brake light will only come on if you have the parking brake lever pulled up, or if there is a low level of fluid in the reservoir. There is a test button on top of the brake fluid reservoir you can use, but my experience with this circuit is that between the parking brake lever switch and the wiring, it can sometimes have a mind of its own. You should see the oil pressure light come on though when only in accessories with the key. Think of it as the car being in normal operating condition from a sensor and instrument point of view, but the engine isn't on, thus no oil pressure.

Cleaning grounds is a good idea. The electrical gauges bouncing can point to a dirty ground. The speedo bouncing would be something else non-electrical, but not unusual. Maybe the dust cap slipping, maybe an angle drive problem. You can put a small amount of lube (gear oil) in the angle drive as part of regular maintenance and see if that helps.

I would have a closer look at the fuel pump and cover. That rubber cover isn't really any kind of pressure seal and that metallic clamping ring you see part of is for the pump and boot one layer underneath. You can safely fold up a corner of that rubber cover and see what is going on. If the pump and boot aren't all the way into the tank and there is a slight opening for air or fuel, you will find out when filling the tank as it can end up tricking the shut-off mechanism at the gas pump when it doesn't sense the back pressure.

That bottom corner of the coil cover might never firmly fit into any groove or clip. They didn't fit terribly well, not on the bottom side anyway. See if you can snug it into the grooves on the sides and around the wiring and then the clip somewhat keeps the top of it in place.
Good stuff, Jonathan! Thanks for your help!

[Gregadeth]

Congrats on the car Greg! It looks solid! :thumbup2:
Thanks, Dana!


Congratulation on your purchase Greg :thumbup2:
What VIN did you purchased?
Thanks, Domi! I will post the VIN here soon, I have trouble memorizing it still (only had the car for about a week). I can tell you it's a Nov 81 build, if that helps.

[Jonathan]

Decided I would keep my dashmat, 'cause I kinda like the way it looks.

I had never even tried it out until recently when someone was asking about where they could get one. I had it included in the car going back to when I got the car in 2007. My dash is fine, no major cracks or anything, so I never bothered with it. When I put it on just to size it up and check condition, I decided to leave it there.

Something to change things up a bit and give contrast to the black interior. And for free too. Anyone with a better half that knows what it is like to get convinced the living room needs to be painted or we need new couches for no good reason can probably relate. This was much simpler.

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[novadmc]

after my post axle work shakedown cruise and clutch rebleed (installed a speed bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder so its now a 1-man bleed job), i started to button everything in the frunk back up. but most of the M5 screws were all stripped to hell. went to home depot and bought out the M5x.08/16mm bolts they had in stock and replaced them all. while black is the "stock" look, i like the accent the new screws provide:
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I also replaced the bubbling lower engine cover stickers with new ones:
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I just love little, simple, quick things to freshen up the car a bit more.

[sdg3205]

This past Sunday, Volker (vps3922) and I went on our first (and probably last!) cruise of the year. Yup. Between my daughter arriving this august, his new Job and two other local owners moving it was a very quiet year for DeLoreans in BC.

In other news - it's never too early to start the obsession:

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[Gregadeth]

This past Sunday, Volker (vps3922) and I went on our first (and probably last!) cruise of the year. Yup. Between my daughter arriving this august, his new Job and two other local owners moving it was a very quiet year for DeLoreans in BC.

In other news - it's never too early to start the obsession:

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Congratulations, Dave!

[DMC-81]

I was able to drive it!!! :woot:

No fluid leaks and everything mechanical worked. :yesss:

It was a good day.

[DMC5180]

I was able to drive it!!! :woot:

No fluid leaks and everything mechanical worked. :yesss:

It was a good day.

Congrats👍🏻

[Gregadeth]

Took it to Pep Boys to get new tires installed - the tires on there were 13 years old!

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The brand new tires I went with BF Goodrich all around.
G-force Super Sport - 196/60/14 (fronts)
Radial T/A - 235/60/15 (rears)

This was the basically the only option for me that I could find, that met my 4 main criteria:
- Stock sizes
- Matching brand
- Made in USA
- Reasonably priced

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[sdg3205]

Took it to Pep Boys to get new tires installed - the tires on there were 13 years old!

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The brand new tires I went with BF Goodrich all around.
G-force Super Sport - 196/60/14 (fronts)
Radial T/A - 235/60/15 (rears)

This was the basically the only option for me that I could find, that met my 4 main criteria:
- Stock sizes
- Matching brand
- Made in USA
- Reasonably priced

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I really wish BFG would bring back the radial TA in a 195. Love those tires. BFG are the best.

[Gregadeth]

I really wish BFG would bring back the radial TA in a 195. Love those tires. BFG are the best.
Yup, I think that would have been the perfect setup. I love the design of the tread, makes the rears look especially beefy (kinda like the original NCTs). And the fact that you can install em both ways, one way for black sidewall, and the other way for raised white lettering. But using the Super Sports for the front is the best alternative. Same brand, and the tread design isn't too different from the Radial T/As.

[novadmc]

Installed bitsyncmaster's solid state RPM relay and tested it out today. simply put, I love it and wish i bought it sooner. my stock RPM replay never would auto-prime the fuel pump when the key was turned to ACC.
with the stock RPM relay, cold starts would take ~2 sec to start. hot stars almost always took 2 cranks to fire up the car.

With the new relay and the pump priming before turning over, both cold and hot starts fire up almost immediately. 1sec of crank at most and thats with the currently having the relay's "hot start fix" OFF).

[Jonathan]

Changed oil and filter.
Replaced oil sender and seal (the warning light one).
Went to British Car Day in Oakville with a dozen other DeLoreans and about a thousand other UK cars.

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[Jonathan]

Fixed wipers.

Realized on the weekend that my wipers weren't working. No speeds and no wiper fluid. Figured it got unplugged and that's indeed what happened. I had gone under the binnacle to replace a bulb the other day and the connector must have backed itself out of the receptacle on the bracket up in the pedal assembly when I was working in there.

I don't mention it because it was some sort of clever discovery, instead only to help any potential owners with the same problem. The assistance being that the signal/wiper stalk has two connectors and they separate the stuff on the wiper side from the stuff on the signals side. Just an easy way to narrow down what happened if you notice only one side of your stalks is working or not working.

Here's an older picture when I had an old (bent) and new assembly together to show the connectors.

Cheers.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Was just at the hardware store and bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer (electronic unit) so I could use it for measuring temps on the DeLorean. It only cost $8.99 and can record the min and max temps. I wanted it to measure the temps in the relay compartment. I also can use it measure the AC vent temps which I now use a dial thermometer but it is hard to read when driving the car.

This unit is made by Taylor and outside temp range of -40 to 158 deg. F

I drove the car for 3 hours running the AC all the way home. Outside temp was about 85 deg. F and max relay box temp hit 94.8 deg. F. This was cooler than I expected but I do have all solid state relays. I'm guessing the worst relay box temp would be after your car has been sitting in the sun closed up. I drilled a small hole in the plywood relay box cover about in the center to RTV my temp sensor there.

[Dangermouse]

Changed oil and filter.
Replaced oil sender and seal (the warning light one).
Went to British Car Day in Oakville with a dozen other DeLoreans and about a thousand other UK cars.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36920&stc=1

Wow, that's a lot of cars !!! Makes our local British show seem minuscule.

I guess it's a hold-over from being part of the commonwealth all those years

[Jonathan]

Wow, that's a lot of cars !!! Makes our local British show seem minuscule.

I guess it's a hold-over from being part of the commonwealth all those years

I think they bill the show as the largest in North America and I think they might be right!!

I can only tell you what I see from growing up in little towns or living in bigger cities later in life, but most/many communities have a lot of people with English, Scottish or Irish backgrounds. And based on the accents, quite often were born overseas and came to Canada during their lifetimes (whereas their kids often don't have the accents because of growing up here). Those kind of folks are often in that retirement age and ripe for owning old cars. Perfect storm so to speak to see the volumes we do at these shows here. A nice combination for them as maybe they get the chance to be around so many like minded people that share something beyond just the cars. This show has vendors set-up with car stuff, yes, but also vendors with food from "back home," UK videos and DVDs, books and other things. They had a few WWII D-Day vehicles there fully decked out which I thought were really terrific.

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[mr_maxime]

Replaced a marker light socket and put the stainless steel coolant bottle in

[mr_maxime]

Finally put the piece of side moulding that fell off driver door back on.

[DMC-81]

Now that it's mobile, I'm focusing in the appearance. First thing is having the rear fascia painted.... :wrenchin:

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[iflights]

1. Replaced both mirrors with Tom@delorana convex mirrors.
2. Readjusted brake light switch to activate on a light press of the pedal. Before, the pedal had to be pressed hard down before lights would activate. Found out why...the 2nd nut was not on the switch shaft.

[novadmc]

front blinkers got LED bulbs (1157) installed @ lunch.
just have the binnacle lights left to convert to LED, but I've been lazy to tackle removing that.

[cpistocco]

I really wish BFG would bring back the radial TA in a 195. Love those tires. BFG are the best.

My 205 ta's fit great and look great NO problems.....and you get your raised whites!!! :)

[sdg3205]

My 205 ta's fit great and look great NO problems.....and you get your raised whites!!! :)

Pictures or lies!

[bfloyd]

Spent the evening last night in the garage removing the Automatic Transmission Shift Computer / Governor thing... I'm sending off the whole unit out to be repaired / replaced, so I ended up removing the whole thing from the car.

Drained the transmission fluid and dropped the pan. Pulled the electrical connection from the solenoid connector out and got it free. Removed the switch connector and finally removed the governor circuit box itself out of the side of the transmission. Using the "How to:" guide posted here on the forums, I then proceeded to remove the electrical connector box from the engine bay and push it down below the car. Easier said than done. "Find a gap between the firewall and engine bay" says the instructions.. I tried for 2 hours last night to get that connector box down through any resemblance of a gap between the engine and firewall. Vacuum hoses, wiring harness, the main fuel line from the filter to the distributor, and some big-ass square plug with a cap on it all seem to be in the way. I tried from the top. I tried from the bottom. At 15 minutes after 2 a.m., I called it quits and went inside. I'm so close to getting this done, but I just can't see a way of getting it out without disconnecting the main fuel line. I really don't want to do that since I don't have a single leak in the fuel system anywhere on the car, and really don't want to create one.

Anybody got any advise on this from previous experience?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I removed that diagnostic connector from my car. The sprocket speed sensor was just hanging onto the exhaust anyway. You will never use the diagnostic connector. You can get the dwell reading from the two pin connector going to diagnostic connector.

[Jonathan]

Today I zipped over to the hardware store thinking I would buy a set of t-handle hex wrenches and make a small adjustment to my CO mixture (thanks Dave S for the advice on what I needed).

The first store I went to didn't quite have what I wanted, but I didn't get to the next store on my list. Instead, I come out to the parking lot to find my beautiful G8 missing the front corner.

Dude stuck around and gave me his name, insurance and whatnot. The two witnesses and his company name on the side of the truck he creamed me in likely influenced that decision. The car is at a body shop and I've got a rental for now. My little CO mixture adjustment on the DeLorean gets to wait.

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[DMC5180]

What did he snag it with?

[Jonathan]

A moving truck!! Like one of those cube vans more or less. I am trying to understand how one could do that much damage if you were paying attention at all. He said he got distracted and it was 100% his fault, but you'd think he'd hit the brakes when it first started to crunch. I would imagine the force of the truck wheel at the back did the pushing but then either the rim somehow or the big platform style bumper grabbed the inside of the wheel well and just kept pulling. It completely sheered off the whole half bumper and skirting. He got a piece of the right front quarter, the hood, headlight lens, rim, fog light and marker light with that effort. That's a helluva mess considering one of the two cars was stationary and the other is supposed to be at parking lot speeds. Just that much heavier I guess. No one was hurt thankfully... and I say that partly because I wasn't in it at the time as much as the thought of had it been the DeLorean I took this morning, someone would have been going to the hospital or prison. Pretty sure my temper if forced to deal with that wouldn't have ended pleasantly.

[mr_maxime]

Looks like it was just sawed off

[SKnight]

Got my new vanity plates on the car last week.

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[DMC5180]

I'm seeing some plate-giarism going on here.😜

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/02/659eeb5f0b882161eefad169db8f20db.jpg

I've had this plate for 21 years.

Should you decide to make the drive to a DCS event we could have some fun.


Dennis

[SKnight]

I'm seeing some plate-giarism going on here.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/02/659eeb5f0b882161eefad169db8f20db.jpg

I've had this plate for 21 years.

Should you decide to make the drive to a DCS event we could have some fun.


Dennis

Well hey that's a sharp looking plate you've got there!:biggrin:

Yes I definitely think we could have some fun a DCS event. I hope to make it to one, one of these days. It'd be interesting to find out how many GULLWNG plates are out there.

[DMC-81]

A couple days ago, I replaced my PPR O-rings. I had lingering problems with a cold start. The fuel seemed to drain out of the feed line after a few hours, despite an external check valve on the fuel pump. Even though I would prime the line with the key several times, it sputtered to life when cold.

I still have to install a new fuel accumulator, but it thought I'd try this first, as it was more of a cold start issue than hot start. I read some good posts beforehand, and backed out the adjacent fuel fittings just for good measure as recommended by the posts. The first and larger O-ring got stuck a bit requiring a gentle pull:

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After that it came out easily and I used a small wooden dowel to remove the second/piston part. The O-rings looked brand new :hmm:, but I cleaned the unit and installed the new ones anyway.

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I lubed the larger ring with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstalled it. The result: Problem solved!!!

I tried it over the last day and a half, and it now fires right up, as it should. I'm a happy camper! :woot:

[81dmc]

I finished my custom "Heninger style" door strut brackets. I used a piece of aluminum from Ace Hardware, two ball studs from the door hinge, and 4 m6 bolts on each bracket. Cost me under $100 and I can still use stock struts.

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/image.jpg1_zpsdmx0wuai.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/image.jpg1_zpsdmx0wuai.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg.html)

[iflights]

Busy weekend
1) Reinstalled center console
2) Replaced my AC panel lighting with Bitsyncmaster's LED solution
3) Cleaned and reinstalled license plate lamp holders (which seemed to be filled with sand) and suffered from an intermittent connection.
4) Replaced headlight switch with DMCH relay solution
5) Replaced driver side window switch

[88KPH]

Elongated the bolt holes on by bonnet/hood catch. Bonnet sits so much better.
Going to baby oil it tomorrow........ kinky!

[Chris 16409]

I installed one of those some light fixtures from ebay. It fits perfectly.

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Picked up two while they were on sale for $13 each.

[MTDMC]

Drove the DeLorean to Chesterton, IN to pick up some more Green River Soda pop today.

[Morpheus]

I installed one of those some light fixtures from ebay. It fits perfectly.

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Picked up two while they were on sale for $13 each.

I ordered a couple of these for $13 as well! I'm glad they work nicely. Can't wait to get my pair....

[DMC5180]

I ordered a couple of these for $13 as well! I'm glad they work nicely. Can't wait to get my pair....

Can you post a link?

[DMC5180]

Drove the DeLorean to Chesterton, IN to pick up some more Green River Soda pop today.

Green River, YUM. I wish I could get it where I live.

[Patrick C]

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Dutch

I see you are using my iPad method! I hope you enjoy it.

[MTDMC]

Green River, YUM. I wish I could get it where I live.

I can't buy it where I live either, so I buy it out of state. I have bought Green River while on the way to DMCMW or coming home from Illionis.

[Morpheus]

Can you post a link?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110673817355?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[DMC5180]

Does it fit okay without the larger bezel?


Dennis

[dustybarn]

Does it fit okay without the larger bezel?


Dennis

Yes. I have these in my car and they fit EXACTLY. There is a difference, though, in that they don't have an "off" position. The three lens positions are on-auto-on. I didn't care at that price.

[SIMid]

Broke down. :mad1:


But I knew what was wrong, so I was ok with that. :aniclap:

[Jonathan]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110673817355?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

"This light operates as an ON/AUTO/ON switch, there is no OFF."

Is that right? Have one of you found a way to modify the connections to get the off position back?

[DMC5180]

"This light operates as an ON/AUTO/ON switch, there is no OFF."

Is that right? Have one of you found a way to modify the connections to get the off position back?

Why are you concerned about not having a true off position? If your door switches work it will be off. Install an LED if your worried about extra current draw with the door open.

[Dutch]

I see you are using my iPad method! I hope you enjoy it.

Indeed, and loving it. Used Audi TT vents. Still having some issues with syncing to my phone. I'll PM you about that.

Thanks for you input.

Dutch

[Chris 16409]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110673817355

I like the new light because the "Auto on" setting is the middle position. I too was not concerned with a true "off" setting.

[Jonathan]

Why are you concerned about not having a true off position? If your door switches work it will be off. Install an LED if your worried about extra current draw with the door open.

Concerned? Not really. I don't much care to tell you the truth. I was only asking out of curiosity more than anything.

[Morpheus]

Does it fit okay without the larger bezel?


Dennis

Fits PERFECTLY. And when you put an LED in it, you don't have to worry about battery drain so much.
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Not OEM, but very functional and well worth the $13 each I paid for them. Highly recommended.

[DMC5180]

What LED did you go with?

[Morpheus]

What LED did you go with?

A couple of these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/3710-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon-38mm-car/2160/4949/

They are nice and bright...

[Bitsyncmaster]

A couple of these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/3710-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon-38mm-car/2160/4949/

They are nice and bright...

Note that those LEDs have a switching regulator and will not dim with PCM dimmers. The large capacitance on the input also messes up the logic in my dimmer.

Any thing that specs. "10-30V DC range" with superbright has those switch regulators.

[Morpheus]

Strangely enough, the stock dimmer module seems to work ok with these lights with LEDs. I watched them dim after I closed the doors last night.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Strangely enough, the stock dimmer module seems to work ok with these lights with LEDs. I watched them dim after I closed the doors last night.

The stock dimmer uses voltage to dim not PCM.

[88KPH]

That looks really nice. Do they put them in a sale occasional?

Sent from my SM-G360F using Tapatalk

[Henrik]

Somewhere on this very thread, one of our Australian fellow D owners posted a video where he put a GoPro or equiv. on the roof of his D and then went for a lovely drive; all while "Feels Like Heaven" by Fiction Factory was playing. Don't know why, but I found that video beautifully inspirational. I enjoyed it a couple of times but the thread has since grown exponentially and I can't find it anymore.

Anyone know what I'm talking about?

Found it!:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=82755&viewfull=1#post82755

[Bitsyncmaster]

Note that those LEDs have a switching regulator and will not dim with PCM dimmers. The large capacitance on the input also messes up the logic in my dimmer.

Any thing that specs. "10-30V DC range" with superbright has those switch regulators.

Sorry, I meant to type PWM (pulse width modulation) and not PCM (pulse code modulation). I worked with PCM for 30 years and it still sticks in my head.

[Lenny]

Alternator belt broke so I replaced both AC and Alternator belts. What a pain in the ass to do by yourself. You have to cram a wrench on the back nut of the alternator then tighten and loosen it from the front. When you tighten it you then have to crawl back under and pry out the wrench that has been tightened up against the block.

Then the battery was dead so I'll test drive it later tonight.

[Farrar]

Today I installed the passenger-side muffler and piping. The pontoon is in the way of the muffler, so it's not installed straight. But since my engine is failing I only really need exhaust for the purpose of running the engine while testing, so I don't care how it looks. At least it will be quieter.

After that was done, I re-connected the starter motor, and installed a new oil filter, the alternator, the intake manifold, carburetor, spark plug wires, and such, until the engine compartment was all hooked up again except for the oil pressure sender which lost its nut.

In order to run the engine, I will need to install coolant and oil. But apart from that, assuming the fuel pump still works, I should be ready for testing soon.

37223

[novadmc]

Today I installed the passenger-side muffler and piping. The pontoon is in the way of the muffler, so it's not installed straight. But since my engine is failing I only really need exhaust for the purpose of running the engine while testing, so I don't care how it looks. At least it will be quieter.

After that was done, I re-connected the starter motor, and installed a new oil filter, the alternator, the intake manifold, carburetor, spark plug wires, and such, until the engine compartment was all hooked up again except for the oil pressure sender which lost its nut.

In order to run the engine, I will need to install coolant and oil. But apart from that, assuming the fuel pump still works, I should be ready for testing soon.

37223

glad to see you're at least close to firing it up again. :) sad to see that it's only firing up to see what's slowly killing it :(

[Farrar]

glad to see you're at least close to firing it up again. :) sad to see that it's only firing up to see what's slowly killing it :(

Thanks! One thing at a time... I'm not giving up!

[Mark Hershey]

Set out to troubleshoot my hard start ( hot or cold) issue on 2790....turned out to just be a missing plug for the mixture adjust setscrew hole. Little 1/8" unmetered leak can make quite a difference😀

[Jonathan]

Today I went for a nice drive in the crisp October air. And the car had no issues (real or imagined... whether my O2 sensor is participating is another story).

I am considering starting a thread for "what to do with a car that doesn't have any problems at the moment" on account of Dave's suggestion/sarcasm. What does one do when there isn't anything on the immediate gotta fix this list? j/k

[mr_maxime]

I didnt do as much as planned since the SEDOC meeting got rained out, but that meant I was home to get my LEDs. Switched out the dome light, marker lights but I ordered the wrong size for the license plate (578 bulb, 44mm).

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/_A100105_zps5ncqtcjq.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/_A100105_zps5ncqtcjq.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/PA100104_zps2wmyfhv1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/PA100104_zps2wmyfhv1.jpg.html)

I need a tripod so i can take some good pictures at night.

[Farrar]

Today, I filled the coolant and oil, charged the battery, confirmed the fuel pump was working, filled the carburetor with fuel, and failed to start the engine.

Just another day in the life!

[cpistocco]

37249
Pictures or lies!

[Farrar]

Today, I came home from school to see a puddle of liquid oozing out of the garage door.

37271

Fresh engine oil.

That's it. I'm done.

[aotmfilms]

372743727337272Installed LED lighting on the louvre and interior, behind the seats.

New lights installed for ‪#‎docbrwn‬ a couple of nights ago, while at the outdoor BTTF showing I thought #docbrwn was too dark so I added LED lighting in addition to the door LED's. Eventually all of the Delorean will be LED. Part of the electrical power that the D will use will come from the Sun via solar panels made to fit the Louvres. This will aid in the wonky electrical system the D currently has. Currently nothing installed depends on the D's electrical. (separate battery system)

[mr_maxime]

Installed the louvre reinforcement bracket. Much easier than I would it would be especially with a pair of c-clamp locking pliers. I was a little bit concerned with how close to the edge some of the holes ended up being. Thankfully I didnt have to cut out a new slot though.

[SIMid]

Found it!:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=82755&viewfull=1#post82755


:rock_on:

[airfireman1]

Fitted a new fuel accumulator, disconnected the old one and fuel pored out of the barbed end. The accumulator was total trash. Now the car starts when hot.
Also disconnected the cold start injector as it seems to putting fuel in even when the engine is hot. No need for one of those here in Australia.

[DMC-81]

Today I started prepping my front fascia for re-painting:

I removed the rusty grill retainers...
37320

After removing the retainers, I wet sanded the area with 600 grit sandpaper and oxalic acid to remove the residual rust stains....

37321

I converted the front marker/indicator light screw nuts from the early style wood screw type to the later M4 machine screw type by drilling the opening to accept an M4 aluminum rivnut....

37322

M4 rivnuts trial fitted. I'll epoxy glue them in place after re-painting....

37323

Brow bar material. 1/8" x 3/4" x 18 " long.....

37324

Modified the end of the brow bar to fit in the narrow outer area....

37325

Tomorrow I'll do the other one and glue them in place with 3M window weld.

[Jonathan]

With the DeLorean? Nothing.

But I got my baby back after the repairs were finished. I say baby because it's actually the car I use every day... and actually enjoy driving. Not sure what the reaction to getting crunched in a parking lot might have been with the DeLorean, but I'm glad I didn't get to find out.

3732637327

[JohnZ]

Removed an annoying metallic sound that was always there revving the engine and at idle. It turned out to be a loose washer on the crossover pipe's heat shield, that used to dance with the pistons.

Unfortunatly heat, age & debris did not good to the bolt that snapped in my hands, by the way there is another bolt and everything is tight just the same.

And the noise is gone :headbang:

[novadmc]

Removed an annoying metallic sound that was always there revving the engine and at idle. It turned out to be a loose washer on the crossover pipe's heat shield, that used to dance with the pistons.

Unfortunatly heat, age & debris did not good to the bolt that snapped in my hands, by the way there is another bolt and everything is tight just the same.

And the noise is gone :headbang:

I had this exact same issue 2 moths back. Same outcome (snapped bolt head - but no more annoying rattle!). Just that little "fix" makes a world of difference when driving, doesn't it?
Glad your rattle is gone!

[JohnZ]

I had this exact same issue 2 moths back. Same outcome (snapped bolt head - but no more annoying rattle!). Just that little "fix" makes a world of difference when driving, doesn't it?
Glad your rattle is gone!

Yes and driving back home (I did this job at my uncle's that has a wonderful PIT) I couldn't get used to the fact that, switching from 3rd gear to 2nd, I didn't get the ZWGEEEIIINZZZ noise :giggle:

8)

[mr_maxime]

Went to town on the louvres and side vents with some black plastic restorer. Probably didnt wipe off enough since some parts have a cloudy residue...

[jwrayth]

Carefully removed the remaining glue from the P/O fitted third brake light. The light had become erratic due to moisture ingress, so removed to try and fix it on the bench. It's a el-cheapo chinese piece of kit though and looks pretty corroded. Almost the end of driving season here though so plenty of time to sort a replacement over winter...

[Gregadeth]

I was already planning on removing the stainless bumper letters, but then yesterday after a drive I discovered one of the letters had fallen off. So today I removed the rest. We wouldn't want people thinking it's a De Orean would we.3741937420

[DMC-81]

I finished prepping the front and rear fascias to be refinished.

37437

I also acid bathed and sanded the headlight housing assemblies to be replated in clear zinc.

Before prep:
37426

After prep:
37427

[iflights]

Burnished all relay sockets and replaced all 2012-circa metal cased NOS relays with nice new Tyco replacements.

[cpistocco]

Today I started prepping my front fascia for re-painting:

I removed the rusty grill retainers...
37320

After removing the retainers, I wet sanded the area with 600 grit sandpaper and oxalic acid to remove the residual rust stains....

37321

I converted the front marker/indicator light screw nuts from the early style wood screw type to the later M4 machine screw type by drilling the opening to accept an M4 aluminum rivnut....

37322

M4 rivnuts trial fitted. I'll epoxy glue them in place after re-painting....

37323

Brow bar material. 1/8" x 3/4" x 18 " long.....

37324

Modified the end of the brow bar to fit in the narrow outer area....

37325

Tomorrow I'll do the other one and glue them in place with 3M window weld.

I put some paint on my eyebrow bars (just to be on the safe side) I also used antiseize compound when putting new (ss) machine screws in rivnuts.

[DMC-81]

I put some paint on my eyebrow bars (just to be on the safe side) I also used antiseize compound when putting new (ss) machine screws in rivnuts.

Thanks for the tip! I'll do the same.

[DMC-81]

Today I took care of more tasks while I'm waiting for my fascias...

The paint was peeling off the bottom edge of my A/C condenser so I scraped, sanded, and painted the affected areas.
37547

Finished...
37548

I refurbished the upper rock screen brackets by re-painting them. I used all-aluminum 5/32" x 1/4" rivets to re-attach them and replaced the M6 stainless steel cage nuts.
37549

I installed the impact absorber and a new center support..
37550

[Mark D]

Today I took care of more tasks while I'm waiting for my fascias...

The paint was peeling off the bottom edge of my A/C condenser so I scraped, sanded, and painted the affected areas.
37547

Finished...
37548

I refurbished the upper rock screen brackets by re-painting them. I used all-aluminum 5/32" x 1/4" rivets to re-attach them and replaced the M6 stainless steel cage nuts.
37549

I installed the impact absorber and a new center support..
37550

Looking really nice! :thumbup:

[DMC-81]

Looking really nice! :thumbup:

Thanks Mark! :thankyou:

[MTDMC]

The Delorean is in storage for the winter. I drove 5,407 this season. That is the most I have put on the car since ownership.

[DMC-81]

My headlight assembly plating order will be done Monday, so today I prepped the surrounding area....

I repainted the lower half of my hood hinges (I did the upper half already), cleaned the friction pad with paint thinner, and cleaned the SS bolts with oxalic acid....
37712

I cleaned the 14 M6 SS bolts that hold the front end support panel with the acid. The bolt and the lock washer were SS but the flat washers were zinc, which deposited rust stains on the panel. I cleaned the panel and replaced them with stainless steel versions, and used anti-seize when I reinstalled the bolts.....

37713

I also cleaned the SS headlight bezels by wet sanding them with 600 grit and the acid. I checked the little screws with a magnet. 2 of them weren't SS, so I fixed that......

37714

Tomorrow I'll put the hinges back on and clean the headlight connectors.

[DMC5180]

Dana,

How do you get a wire harness to look that clean? Did you re-wrap it? I don't see a spec of dust or dirt anywhere on your car.

Where do you get oxalic acid? This is the first I've heard of that.

[DMC-81]

Dana,

How do you get a wire harness to look that clean? Did you re-wrap it? I don't see a spec of dust or dirt anywhere on your car.

Where do you get oxalic acid? This is the first I've heard of that.

Hi Dennis,

First thank you. :thankyou:

For the wiring harness, no, I didn't have to re-wrap it. To clean, I do 3 steps. First, normal water and Pine-Sol. Scrub a few times in a twisting motion with an old terry washcloth. Then a little paint thinner on blue shop towels... Not too much or too long. Then plain water with the same washcloth.

I bought the oxalic acid at Ace Hardware here in Florida under the brand name Snowcap ($8 ). It's amazing. I mix it up stronger than normal, and soak the SS parts in it for 15 min. Then rinse in water.

37719

[DMC5180]

Very interesting, I've never heard of that stuff before. I'll have to look for it at my local True Value store and see what pops up.

Thanks

[DMCMW Dave]

Very interesting, I've never heard of that stuff before. I'll have to look for it at my local True Value store and see what pops up.

Thanks

It's commonly used in wood refinishing as a bleach, so it's in the paint section.

[DMC-81]

Well, the weekend flew by! Today I put the hood hinges back on, and cleaned the headlight connectors with a toothbrush and paint thinner which dissolved all the old grease, etc. When I install the new fixtures, I'll use new di-electric grease. I also replaced the front indicator sockets and used new Sylvania long life bulbs. I think they have a SS base as they are not magnetic.

37739

I installed my radiator shroud.
37740

Here is the back side of the shroud. I have the early version with the upper rivnut put in the wrong place. The factory used body shims to secure it. I re-painted the shim.

37741

There were body shims on the top of the front support panel to shim the fascia. They were really rusty, so I opted to replace them with stainless steel versions which I cut out of a piece of flat stock.

37742

Next up is installing the headlights this week.

[Morpheus]

Looking great, Dana!

I'm going to reference your work here when I get to my Front Fascia...

[DMC-81]

Thanks Brandon! :thankyou:

I have to give credit to Mark on the shape of the Brow Bar. I followed his drawing that he made on this post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10405-Brow-bar-install-questions") and it worked like a charm.

[DMC-81]

Over the last 2 days, I was able to install my headlight assemblies:

Re-plated (clear zinc) frames and hardware, except for new stainless steel M6 washers and hex nuts...

37805 37804

Headlamps:

37806 37807

Top View:

37809 37808

The Sylvania Silverstars are certainly bright.

[DMC5180]

Dana, how long have been working on your restoration?

Is the interior work completed already?

Do you have a plater near you?


Dennis

[mr_maxime]

Lol those headlights make me really self conscious about what I worked on.

I rewired 2 H4 sockets into my headlights and now the wiring is correct for H4 bulbs. Also changed out the spring to the correct type on the leftmost one so now I can aim them. Also rewired a new side marker light socket in.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the new DMCH AC panel decal. Looking at it, I'm happy they went with the larger font on the FAN FAIL and LOCK DOOR indicators.

So I pulled my old sticker off (the last NOS one they sold). The old sticker pulls off the clear front of the decal easy but all the black with the adhesive stuck tight to the plastic face plate. After scraping off that adhesive with a hard wood "tongue depressor", I wet sand it with 220 grit. I painted the switch holes with black paint since the old black paint was a little thin there.

Waiting for paint to dry, will wet sand any drips off the front and install the new decal soon.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well this new AC panel decal is a bust. The colored rings are completely covered with the silver adhesive on the back so no light shows through. Wish I did not stick it onto the panel.

[DMC-81]

Dana, how long have been working on your restoration?

Is the interior work completed already?

Do you have a plater near you?


Dennis

Hi Dennis,

I've been working on it for almost 2 years. I've been taking my time, trying to restore it right, and enjoying the journey. My sequence has been: mechanical, exterior, and interior/electrical. So, the interior is next. I only have a few things to do there.

Yes, I have a good plater nearby which is convenient.

Cheers.

[DMC-81]

Lol those headlights make me really self conscious about what I worked on.


:) Thanks! Don't feel bad at all. I think all efforts that help repair and preserve these beautiful cars is great. :thumbup2:

[mr_maxime]

Haha I said that because a lot of my bolts have rusted pretty bad in there. I have to cope with the fact that I dont have a garage and cant really do work that keeps the car apart more than a couple hours at a time as a result.

[axh174]

Today I put the hood hinges back on, and cleaned the headlight connectors with a toothbrush and paint thinner which dissolved all the old grease, etc.

Good tip, Dana. I'll definitely be putting this into practice.

Does this also do a good job of cleaning up any corrosion on the pins in the connectors or is there a different approach you take to making sure you've got the pins clean?

-Kevin

[DMC5180]

Good tip, Dana. I'll definitely be putting this into practice.

Does this also do a good job of cleaning up any corrosion on the pins in the connectors or is there a different approach you take to making sure you've got the pins clean?

-Kevin

This is great question, I think we've all seen those demonstrations where they submerge silver, copper bottom pans and pennies in a chemical solution that magically removes the oxidized surface.

I wonder how well submerging connectors in those solutions would work to remove the oxide layer on the brass terminals. No doubt you would need to clean any grease or oils first.



Dennis

[Bitsyncmaster]

This is great question, I think we've all seen those demonstrations where they submerge silver, copper bottom pans and pennies in a chemical solution that magically removes the oxidized surface.

I wonder how well submerging connectors in those solutions would work to remove the oxide layer on the brass terminals. No doubt you would need to clean any grease or oils first.



Dennis

Tarn-x works pretty good on the brass terminals. That is how I cleaned the connectors on my car. Just dip the whole connector in a jar of Tarn-x for about 60 seconds, shaking the connector around. Then dip the connector in a solvent and blow dry.

[DMC-81]

Good tip, Dana. I'll definitely be putting this into practice.

Does this also do a good job of cleaning up any corrosion on the pins in the connectors or is there a different approach you take to making sure you've got the pins clean?

-Kevin

Hi Kevin,

For the pins, if they are not too bad, I use 600 grit sandpaper and WD-40 to wet sand them. Not too much because often times they are plated.

[DMC-81]

This is great question, I think we've all seen those demonstrations where they submerge silver, copper bottom pans and pennies in a chemical solution that magically removes the oxidized surface.

I wonder how well submerging connectors in those solutions would work to remove the oxide layer on the brass terminals. No doubt you would need to clean any grease or oils first.



Dennis

Yes indeed. Try dipping a corroded penny in Tabasco sauce for 15 minutes. I learned this from helping my daughter with a grade 5 science experiment. I was amazed. :wow:

[DMC5180]

Somehow I don't think you would dip one of your harness connectors in Tabasco sauce. [emoji6]


Dennis

[DMC-81]

Somehow I don't think you would dip one of your harness connectors in Tabasco sauce. [emoji6]


Dennis

Haha. You would be correct. But I learned why I need a Tums after anything with Tabasco sauce. :flamed:

Speaking of the topic, here's oxalic acid in action today on the bottom of my quarter panel...

Rusty captive spire nuts..
37856

Rust stains left behind...
37857

After wet sanding with the acid....

37858

:wow:

[DMC-81]

Because I had one quarter panel off, today I took the other one off and decided to paint the pontoons. Also, I had to remove/replace the rusty captive spire nuts on the bottom of the panel.

General cleaning of 34 years of Georgia mud and some pine needles. I also wet sanded the black area with 1000 grit sandpaper...

37978

Masked the area, and covered the rest of the car with plastic...

37979

Pontoons painted with 3 coats of SEM trim Black....

37980

All finished and masking removed...

37981

Tomorrow I'll paint the engine cover.

[DMCVegas]

Did you find any interesting Cave Paintings?

[mr_maxime]

With help, I changed out my rear calipers and brake pads. First time I did brakes on a car. I also managed to break the nut loose for the angle drive and noticed that I didn't even have my new one with me.

[DMC-81]

Did you find any interesting Cave Paintings?

Hi Robert,

Well, there was some markings in black marker on the inside of the quarter panels, and a code scratched into the lower pontoon. I'll take a picture of them before I put the panels on permanently.

[DMC-81]

With help, I changed out my rear calipers and brake pads. First time I did brakes on a car. I also managed to break the nut loose for the angle drive and noticed that I didn't even have my new one with me.

Good job! I found that the rear calipers were a little bit challenging due to the parking brake.

[DMC-81]

Today, I painted the engine cover. The cleaning and masking took most of the time.

I masked the underside to protect my new labels from overspray...
38012

General cleaning. The grates were dirty but the black oxide finish was in great shape. Because the top side of the cover was textured, I didn't sand it. However, you can see the fading of the paint in horizontal lines matching the louvers above it.
38013

Top masked...
38014

Painted with 3 coats of SEM Trim Black paint....
38015

After using this paint twice, I like how it flashes and dries evenly, and the nozzle on the can is great. Well worth the few extra bucks per rattle can.

[Domi]

Very good job :thumbup:

[Farrar]

Put some fresh gas in the tank to mix with the old gas. There is a ring of varnish about an inch from the bottom of the tank because I drained the tank incorrectly. Now I am trying to dissolve the varnish "the easy way."

[DMC-81]

Today was a long day of installing my front end.

Started with all the parts...
38188

The fascias, louver, and front spoiler were professionally painted with the correct early VIN dark gray, in oil based paint, and SEM Trim Black. I also repainted my rock screen with satin black. I selected all stainless steel fasteners on the fascias, spoiler, and rock screen as they bear the brunt of the rain etc.

New grille retainers fastened with all aluminum 1/8" rivets...

38189

After install...

38190

38191

38192

38193

38194

I'll install the grille tomorrow....

[Domi]

Very good job :aniclap:

[DMC-81]

Very good job :aniclap:

Thanks Domi! It's a labor of love!

[88KPH]

drove it.

[novadmc]

drove it.

ditto. it was such a nice day today here (sunny and in the mid 60s) mine was just begging for a drive.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Put some fresh gas in the tank to mix with the old gas. There is a ring of varnish about an inch from the bottom of the tank because I drained the tank incorrectly. Now I am trying to dissolve the varnish "the easy way."

"The easy way" is very risky Farrar as whatever varnish dissolves will reappear elsewhere when the car sits for any length of time unless you're lucky enough to completely burn it off. If it's too late and you've driven the car you may damage some very expensive components. At least drive the car until the engine light comes on and then fill it again and run another whole tank down till the light comes on again and repeat another time. Do not let the car sit long until this is done or you may be in for an unpleasant and very expensive surprise.
Rob

[Shuttleman]

Today was a long day of installing my front end.

Started with all the parts...
38188

The fascias, louver, and front spoiler were professionally painted with the correct early VIN dark gray, in oil based paint, and SEM Trim Black. I also repainted my rock screen with satin black. I selected all stainless steel fasteners on the fascias, spoiler, and rock screen as they bear the brunt of the rain etc.

New grille retainers fastened with all aluminum 1/8" rivets...

38189

After install...

38190

38191

38192

38193

38194

I'll install the grille tomorrow....

What color code did you use?

[D-guy]

Howdy folks. I was around a bit on the old forums. Just getting re-motivated to do some honest winter maintenance on my car. Owner for about 7 years now and driven sporadically every summer.
Took a long time but I made my way through the "what have you done" thread.
My wheels are off the ground now and for likely the first time in decades I can see what colour the frame is!http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/90e51c17aa27ed031a11b9b345ebad04.jpg
Pulled the steering rack and it is in good shape, just no oil left. So, that's what gave the front left side that particular shade of dirt.

Lots of frame cleaning and touch up to do while we hibernate up here.
Great reading all your adventures on here!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC-81]

What color code did you use?

Hi there,

I got the paint code from DMCH. Just give them a call and they can determine the code for your VIN range. I guess that it is also a matter of what paint solvents (oil or water based) are permissible in your area, or that your paint shop uses, as the code is different for each.

Cheers,
Dana

[DMC-81]

Howdy folks. I was around a bit on the old forums. Just getting re-motivated to do some honest winter maintenance on my car. Owner for about 7 years now and driven sporadically every summer.
Took a long time but I made my way through the "what have you done" thread.
My wheels are off the ground now and for likely the first time in decades I can see what colour the frame is!
Pulled the steering rack and it is in good shape, just no oil left. So, that's what gave the front left side that particular shade of dirt.

Lots of frame cleaning and touch up to do while we hibernate up here.
Great reading all your adventures on here!


Hi there. Welcome back!

[Riley88]

Howdy folks. I was around a bit on the old forums. Just getting re-motivated to do some honest winter maintenance on my car. Owner for about 7 years now and driven sporadically every summer.
Took a long time but I made my way through the "what have you done" thread.
My wheels are off the ground now and for likely the first time in decades I can see what colour the frame is!http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/27/90e51c17aa27ed031a11b9b345ebad04.jpg
Pulled the steering rack and it is in good shape, just no oil left. So, that's what gave the front left side that particular shade of dirt.

Lots of frame cleaning and touch up to do while we hibernate up here.
Great reading all your adventures on here!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you have all of the front end removed, from the looks of that pic you should replace those tie rod ends. I just did mine, feels so much nicer driving

[Rich_NYS]

Disassembled the steering rack.

[D-guy]

if you have all of the front end removed, from the looks of that pic you should replace those tie rod ends. I just did mine, feels so much nicer driving

You bet! I have boots and new tie rod ends that have been on the shelf for many moons.

Unfortunately, I dropped my fuel tank plate and discovered extensive rust. Must have been an old leak that was never cleaned. I am worried that this is very very bad, and beyond just paint repair. I'll get things cleaned up as best as I can and check back with you guys hopefully this week.
Bummer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

-Disassembled the front brake calipers.
-Nudged the y-pipe bolts a bit, I'm continuing to soak with ATF/Acetone.

[Shuttleman]

Hi there,

I got the paint code from DMCH. Just give them a call and they can determine the code for your VIN range. I guess that it is also a matter of what paint solvents (oil or water based) are permissible in your area, or that your paint shop uses, as the code is different for each.

Cheers,
Dana


Ok thanks, keep on the good work!

[D-guy]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/01/7ac75e449a2758916a651ac0fb2680d8.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/01/abefe24c3d1b376f87287e2ed15efa71.jpg

After an epic battle with the fuel tank it is finally out. Rust clean up and sealing next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dangermouse]

Welcome back and keep up the good work

[DMC-81]

I began having the windows tinted and I'm timing this with having the car apart. Today, I took the quarter panels in to a tint place so they don't have to deal with the awkward angle with them on the car and I can avoid any chance of them scratching my new engine cover/pontoon paint.

This tint film is made by 3M and contains ceramic which was recommended on another thread as having very good heat barrier (Not that it matters much on the quarter panels).

Before:
38356

After:
38357

I'll have the doors done when I take off the interior panels to replace the window motors.

Dent removal:

This was the restoration job that I stressed over the most.
Can you see where the dime sized dent was? ( about 2 inches below the intake grill)
38358

Neither can I! I hired a paintless dent removal company and got a tech with 20 years experience. I reiterated twice that SS is softer than sheet metal steel, and crossed my fingers. It turned out great! Phew! He even repaired one that I couldn't see for free. Best 50 bucks I ever spent.

[airfireman1]

Had my alternator rebuilt, I had no charge light and it was barely giving 12 volts. Turned out to be a blown diode. Now everything works as it should.

[Jason]

Rolled over the odometer for the second time.

38365

[Dangermouse]

Congrats

[Shuttleman]

Made a tool out of the rear bearing outer race. Takes 10 minutes and works great.
38367383683836938370

[Citizen]

Rolled over the odometer for the second time.

38365

I'm sure you mean you have now driven the car over 200,000 miles, right? Not rolled it over manually while off the car.

Because if so, wow, you deserve credit, and an honorable mention in the DeLorean Registry (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13)! You might well be the third highest mileage DeLorean (that we know about). So far, only 14 cars have over 100k miles (that we know about), yours being one of them.

Thomas

...

[Chris 16409]

I'm sure you mean you have now driven the car over 200,000 miles, right? Not rolled it over manually while off the car.

Because if so, wow, you deserve credit, and an honorable mention in the DeLorean Registry (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13)! You might well be the third highest mileage DeLorean (that we know about). So far, only 14 cars have over 100k miles (that we know about), yours being one of them.

Thomas

...

16409 has 145,000+ miles. So you can add another car to that list! I bought it with 97k miles.

[Jason]

Yes, those are driven miles. Mostly by me. The car had 28k or so miles on it when I bought it.


I'm sure you mean you have now driven the car over 200,000 miles, right? Not rolled it over manually while off the car.

Because if so, wow, you deserve credit, and an honorable mention in the DeLorean Registry (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13)! You might well be the third highest mileage DeLorean (that we know about). So far, only 14 cars have over 100k miles (that we know about), yours being one of them.

Thomas

...

[Citizen]

16409 has 145,000+ miles. So you can add another car to that list! I bought it with 97k miles.


Yes, those are driven miles. Mostly by me. The car had 28k or so miles on it when I bought it.

Ok, these have been updated.

Anyone else care to join the 100,000+ mile (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13) club?

Thomas

...

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I'm sure you mean you have now driven the car over 200,000 miles, right? Not rolled it over manually while off the car.

Because if so, wow, you deserve credit, and an honorable mention in the DeLorean Registry (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13)! You might well be the third highest mileage DeLorean (that we know about). So far, only 14 cars have over 100k miles (that we know about), yours being one of them.

Thomas

...

I have a customer named Iris Kurzban who (unfortunately) moved to Florida last year who had 219,371 miles logged when she left N.Y. a year ago last July. She insist's she'll call back in a half hour with current mileage though I told her it wasn't necessary. It is probably the best documented Delorean ever as we performed all service work (except state inspections) on this car from 1984 till 2014 and have her service records from the selling dealer as well (Cold Spring Imports in Long Island, N.Y.). Their first service R.O.was on 8/11/82 at 1751 miles. Our service file on the car begins on 1/18/84. just before the previous Christmas she had gotten the car stuck in a snowdrift and spun the splines off the rear outer axle. C.S. Imports ordered the part but told her they didn't have time to install it. They didn't even seem to mind when I rolled up with our flatbed to take it away. She picked up the repaired car on 1/27/84 and I didn't know if I would ever see it again. Three days later her 16 year old daughter was driving the car home from school and crashed the car hard fortunately without any injury's though. The car sustained major damage (1/30/84) which amounted to $10,500- worth of work. You get a better understanding of the severity of this hit with the knowledge that at the time our (my at the time) labor rate was only $30- an hour. After two other smaller fender benders and many snowy L.I. winters along the way it is still driving on the original frame which I straightened after the '84 accident. The car runs strong despite the fact that it never got washed or pampered except when it was here for service. The car has also had its original engine replaced and two auto transmissions (one with diff. one W/O). She just called back....it has 219,983.6 as of now. Please advise as to where she stands in the mileage rankings as she'd get a kick out of knowing if she has the record for an original owner.

I also have another customer of thirty years (Surprisingly also a woman) who moved down there the same year and now resides 12 miles away from Iris.

My last customer of thirty years or more may also be moving down there in a year or two. At this point I'm asking myself what the hell is going on here?

Another kind of cool factoid is that years later when the dealer principal of C.S. Imports decided to retire in the late 80's he called me and I bought his Delorean inventory of parts. He had been my father's sales manager back in the sixties and left our dealership to start one of the first Japanese (Mazda I think) car dealerships on Long Island. We joked about how I used to call him "Old baloney nose" back when I was the dealer's brat son hanging out in the new car showroom with a school chum or two. Ahhh the good old days!

Rob

[Chris 16409]

Ok, these have been updated.

Thomas

You can add "Gray" interior to my car's record.

[Chris 16409]

I have a customer named Iris Kurzban who (unfortunately) moved to Florida last year who had 219,371 miles logged when she left N.Y. a year ago last July. The car has also had its original engine replaced and two auto transmissions (one with diff. one W/O).

Rob

Rob, in your experience, how many miles can a properly maintained PRV accrue before it requires a rebuild/replacement. Also considering no major overheating problems.

[Citizen]

I have a customer named Iris Kurzban who (unfortunately) moved to Florida last year who had 219,371 miles logged when she left N.Y. a year ago last July....[snip] She just called back....it has 219,983.6 as of now. Please advise as to where she stands in the mileage rankings as she'd get a kick out of knowing if she has the record for an original owner.[snip]

Rob

This is great info, Rob, thanks for providing that history. I love these kind of stories (I don't know why, call me crazy cuz I'm sure many think keeping up with our car stats is silly, but hey).

Anyway, would you be at liberty to provide the VIN of the 219k mile car in Florida? If not already on the list, this car would have the 3rd highest mileage (that we know of), bumping 16795 to 4th (sorry Jason), (and DeLorean World Tour cars not included). As far as an original owner, she may well be 1st, but unfortunately I'm not tracking original owner cars (maybe something to consider). The other two cars are: 10694 (BTTF Team Fox at ~400k-[last reported]) and 4915 (370k miles).

Cool stuff!

Thomas

...

[Citizen]

You can add "Gray" interior to my car's record.

Done (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_disp.asp?start=16409).

...

[PJ Grady Inc.]

This is great info, Rob, thanks for providing that history. I love these kind of stories (I don't know why, call me crazy cuz I'm sure many think keeping up with our car stats is silly, but hey).

Anyway, would you be at liberty to provide the VIN of the 219k mile car in Florida? If not already on the list, this car would have the 3rd highest mileage (that we know of), bumping 16795 to 4th (sorry Jason), (and DeLorean World Tour cars not included). As far as an original owner, she may well be 1st, but unfortunately I'm not tracking original owner cars (maybe something to consider). The other two cars are: 10694 (BTTF Team Fox at ~400k-[last reported]) and 4915 (370k miles).

Cool stuff!

Thomas

...


She agreed it was OK so #006646 a grey interior (of course with that VIN) automatic.

BTW Ed Bernstein claimed to have a half million miles on his automatic but I can't verify it and he was a vendor so I don't know if you would count that car anyway.

Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Rob, in your experience, how many miles can a properly maintained PRV accrue before it requires a rebuild/replacement. Also considering no major overheating problems.

Well Iris' car for instance got the new engine at 90K when it developed a coolant leak at the liner base from corrosion which could not be easily fixed and new complete engines where a bargain at that point in time. It also had a history of overheating with the original dealer so this could have caused the failure which I think was premature. I think the PVR crank, rods, pistons and liners are bulletproof and can go hundreds of thousands of miles (with a few head gasket changes perhaps) and no history of overheating. Most people just don't drive them long enough to find out.
Rob

[DMC-81]

Today was a busy day of finishing the work on my quarter panels so I can permanently install them.

Masked and painted the quarter panel louvers with 2 coats of SEM Trim Black paint...
38402 38401 38403

While the quarter panels were off, I cleaned off the old glue from the outer door seals as I will replace them. I used carburetor cleaner, a razor blade, and a blue (non scratch) scotch brite pad.
38404 38405

3 new captive spire nuts..
38406

All completed and installed except reattaching the rocker panel...
38407

Next up is installing the rear fascia.

[Jason]

My engine made it to 178k miles before it developed a small head gasket leak (exhaust into the coolant) which I used as an excuse to do a rebuild using DPI Spec 2 parts. I probably could have gotten away with just replacing the head gaskets and resurfacing the heads.


Well Iris' car for instance got the new engine at 90K when it developed a coolant leak at the liner base from corrosion which could not be easily fixed and new complete engines where a bargain at that point in time. It also had a history of overheating with the original dealer so this could have caused the failure which I think was premature. I think the PVR crank, rods, pistons and liners are bulletproof and can go hundreds of thousands of miles (with a few head gasket changes perhaps) and no history of overheating. Most people just don't drive them long enough to find out.
Rob

[Farrar]

"The easy way" is very risky Farrar as whatever varnish dissolves will reappear elsewhere when the car sits for any length of time unless you're lucky enough to completely burn it off. If it's too late and you've driven the car you may damage some very expensive components. At least drive the car until the engine light comes on and then fill it again and run another whole tank down till the light comes on again and repeat another time. Do not let the car sit long until this is done or you may be in for an unpleasant and very expensive surprise.
Rob

Rob, apologies for the late reply.

My engine does not run. The fuel pump still works, so I plan to cycle the gas out every week or so. Some time next year, #2613 will get a replacement engine -- May or June, probably.

Edit: Misread what you said earlier -- now I see we were talking about two different cars. Oops, I guess I am up past my bedtime! LOL

[Jonathan]

Great stories Rob, thanks for sharing.

Out of those 100k mile cars, any idea how many were automatics as opposed to manuals? Thomas, is that part of your records? Just curious more so than wanting to know specifics about one car versus another.

Many people don't speak highly of automatics for one reason or another, maintenance issues being one of them. Would be ironic if a disproportionate amount of high mileage cars were autos though. Or if that meant more higher mileage cars were owned by women. Not because women are only driving autos, but because maybe they don't come with as much male machoness and might actually go easy on their cars a little more, helping them last longer.

[mr_maxime]

Changed my taillight boards to new DMC ones and the bulbs to LEDs except blinkers until I install the new relay. Tip for checking the lights alone, lift the louvres, take off the taillights and prop them on the engine cover facing the interior. The reverse did not work when I checked with one board swapped, but worked when both were. Do both sides stop working if one isnt?

[Citizen]

Out of those 100k mile cars, any idea how many were automatics as opposed to manuals? Thomas, is that part of your records? Just curious more so than wanting to know specifics about one car versus another.


Actually, yes. There are now 16 cars (http://www.citizenkidd.com/dmc/pages/vinview_totals_spec.asp?vinstart=13), and of them, 12 are manual transmissions, 3 are automatics, and 1 is unknown.

Thomas

...

[Jonathan]

Thanks Thomas. If that unknown car is an auto, that's 25% of the high mileage cars that are automatics. Less than 25% if it is a manual trans. That's a fair bit lower than the overall average for cars produced, with about one third being autos (IIRC).

.....

I removed my rear fascia this afternoon. Used some good instructions from a few of the guys that wrote it up in the "how to remove rear fascia" thread. Specifically Nick's list of steps from the times he's done his with the Vette engine. I thankfully didn't have any of those extra nuts and bolts into the pontoon and accessed from the charcoal canister or air inlet areas. And thankfully nothing broke off while disassembling things.

The main project I have to do is to epoxy those replacement SS studs into the plastic. I got a replacement edging strip (heatshield) ages ago, but out of the 7 studs that match up with the holes in the heatshield, only one is in place (I have 7 replacement studs from Midwest). I wondered though if there are actually supposed to be nine across that lower edge of the plastic bumper? The seven for the heatshield and then an additional one on each side to secure those corner trim pieces to? Anyone have a photo of a fascia removed from the car and showing the backside with those studs? My car doesn't have anything there and it looks again like another part of my car that was being held together with only the Force.

Great access to the backside of the engine though with that off. Will be tidying up some and inspecting areas I couldn't see well before. I think I can almost see the electrical connection for that thermistor in the valley. Mine isn't plugged on all the way and I may be able to get at it enough to wiggle it back on. Way easier to work on the idler puller bearings with the fascia off too so maybe do that job finally as well.

My foam shock absorber part stayed attached to the frame and did not come off with the fascia. Assume this is meant to be? I don't have any reason to remove it, so figured I'd just leave it as is for now.

38422

[Rich_NYS]

I removed my rear fascia this afternoon.

~~~

My foam shock absorber part stayed attached to the frame and did not come off with the fascia. Assume this is meant to be? I don't have any reason to remove it, so figured I'd just leave it as is for now.

38422

Looks like mine! :thumbup:

The black stuff on mine is peeled much worse than yours. I've seen others that had the black stuff cleaned off, looks much better than what I have so I might go that route.

Are you going to do anything to the foam, or leave it as is?

[Jonathan]

Looks like mine! :thumbup:

The black stuff on mine is peeled much worse than yours. I've seen others that had the black stuff cleaned off, looks much better than what I have so I might go that route.

Are you going to do anything to the foam, or leave it as is?

I'll get some better pictures in the near future, as when I was out looking at it again just now, I realized the underside of the foam has more of that peeling black coating you mention than the top does.

I am tempted to just leave it alone as I have a bad habit of making new problems when I get thinking "oh, that's easy, I'll do that too" when in there on some project.

I'll do some cleaning first thing and then reassess. I have quite the layer of filth on a lot of that back area due to my A/C belt shredding from that warped idler pulley. Like rubbery and greasy bits over most every surface. I didn't spot any new rodent nests from years ago which is good and no surprises on frame condition either.

I saw better those two far end spots where the missing studs would be. One is still attached to the corner trim piece still on the car, rusty base and all. And the other side is just gone all together. They look similar to those middle seven studs but not identical.

This will be another area getting tightened up by the time it goes back together. I gave the mechanic I had in 2007 when I first got the car the chance to drive it a month or so ago and he commented on how much firmer and tighter it all feels. I think having the entire interior out and then cleaned up and put back in properly helped as did a bunch of other things when you find random fasteners not in place or loose. It's not completely rattle free but it's getting close.

[DMC-81]

[QUOTE=Jonathan; Anyone have a photo of a fascia removed from the car and showing the backside with those studs? My car doesn't have anything there and it looks again like another part of my car that was being held together with only the Force.

My foam shock absorber part stayed attached to the frame and did not come off with the fascia. Assume this is meant to be? I don't have any reason to remove it, so figured I'd just leave it as is for [/QUOTE]

Hi Jonathan,

Here is a picture of those outbound studs. They look the same as the 7 in the middle. I took off my absorbers, carefully peeled the old paint off, cleaned, then applied 3 coats of engine enamel as Rob Grady suggested. He aslo recommended that everyone refurbish the coating when fascias are off due to their tendency to hold water like a sponge. That's why the bottom is more peeled ( gravity). There are 4 bolts that hold the rear absorber on( bolted to the aluminum support bar on the absorber.. see pic) . I'd try one of them to see if you can get them off, and then recommend this task. It was fairly easy to do.

Thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12560-Refurbish-impact-absorbers

38423

Absorber cleaned off :
3842438425

I hope this helps. Good luck with the tasks. :wrenchin:

[Jonathan]

Hi Jonathan,

Here is a picture of those outbound studs. They look the same as the 7 in the middle. I took off my absorbers, carefully peeled the old paint off, cleaned, then applied 3 coats of engine enamel as Rob Grady suggested. He aslo recommended that everyone refurbish the coating when fascias are off due to their tendency to hold water like a sponge. That's why the bottom is more peeled ( gravity). There are 4 bolts that hold the rear absorber on( bolted to the aluminum support bar on the absorber.. see pic) . I'd try one of them to see if you can get them off, and then recommend this task. It was fairly easy to do.

Thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12560-Refurbish-impact-absorbers

38423

Absorber cleaned off :
3842438425

I hope this helps. Good luck with the tasks. :wrenchin:

Hey, thanks. That helps a lot.

Those studs do look the same and good to note the ones on the end have a different orientation than the middle seven. I'll see about tracking down a couple more of those SS studs. I don't see them listed on the webstore and don't seem to have a part number to search for them with either after looking back at my parts list from when I order them originally.

And good call on the shock absorber paint and water logging. I bet that's exactly what happens. And considering how rusty my original heatshield was, I would believe it if the source of water dripping on to it making it so was from above with that shock absorber.

Can't tell which is which, can ya?? lol

38430

[SIMid]

38559
Caught up with the DWT in Melbourne over the weekend. :D

[dustybarn]

I took advantage of the warm El Nino weather and drove 1776 to a Christmas party on Saturday night. Usually it's well into its hibernation period by now.

A few weeks ago I had a lucky break. A deer dashed out from the side of the interstate while I was going about 65. He must have seen me and put on the brakes, because he just went *thump* against the passenger's door and ran away. I stopped to check for damage, and there was just a big smear of deer-slobber on the door.

[SKnight]

Just had a deluxe Wings-A-Loft system with trunk opener installed (no more relying on the latch cable), replaced the driver side inner door seal, and had the old door solenoids replaced with DPNW's actuator kit. Surprisingly, the left hand solenoid was missing which I guess would explain why the driver door never locked or unlocked if i turned the key in the passenger side.

[Jonathan]

Realized how little slack there is in my spark plug wires. I tugged lightly on cylinder 6's wire and it popped right off. Figure I'll replace my ignition wiring now as I've had the parts for some time.

Question though on those wires: I have all six plug wires and two different coil wires. The six plug wires along with one of the coil wires are black in colour and are marked:

BOUGICORD 403 AUTORADIO BOUGICORD 403 CLASS C

The single red coil wire I have though is marked:

BOUGICORD 403 CLASS B 008

Is there some significance to this class "C" and class "B"?

The red coil wire is not quite as soft and malleable whereas all the black ones are. So I'd rather use the black coil wire since it doesn't feel as stale or crusty. All of them are new never used, but somehow the red one is quite a bit more stiff.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Realized how little slack there is in my spark plug wires. I tugged lightly on cylinder 6's wire and it popped right off. Figure I'll replace my ignition wiring now as I've had the parts for some time.

Question though on those wires: I have all six plug wires and two different coil wires. The six plug wires along with one of the coil wires are black in colour and are marked:

BOUGICORD 403 AUTORADIO BOUGICORD 403 CLASS C

The single red coil wire I have though is marked:

BOUGICORD 403 CLASS B 008

Is there some significance to this class "C" and class "B"?

The red coil wire is not quite as soft and malleable whereas all the black ones are. So I'd rather use the black coil wire since it doesn't feel as stale or crusty. All of them are new never used, but somehow the red one is quite a bit more stiff.
That is an original 34 year old coil wire fitted to all '81's and was the source of many breakdowns. Red Bougicord wires were crap when new and they, unlike me, don't get better with age. I'd say you're about 30 years overdue for a tuneup my (very lucky to start your car!) friend.
Rob

[Jonathan]

That is an original 34 year old coil wire fitted to all '81's and was the source of many breakdowns. Red Bougicord wires were crap when new and they, unlike me, don't get better with age. I'd say you're about 30 years overdue for a tuneup my (very lucky to start your car!) friend.
Rob

Haha, thanks Rob! We'll let the RED wine get better with age, and go with the BLACK replacement coil wire. Appreciate the tip!

Gonna pull the spark plugs shortly and I'll let you know how they look. I think I can feel my way to the distributor cap to replace the coil wire and then leave the ignition wires as is. Not too keen on moving the fuel mixture unit and it doesn't seem like there is enough access back there to get at everything while it is still in place.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Haha, thanks Rob! We'll let the RED wine get better with age, and go with the BLACK replacement coil wire. Appreciate the tip!

Gonna pull the spark plugs shortly and I'll let you know how they look. I think I can feel my way to the distributor cap to replace the coil wire and then leave the ignition wires as is. Not too keen on moving the fuel mixture unit and it doesn't seem like there is enough access back there to get at everything while it is still in place.

I forgot to mention your other wires are also original and although better in quality are also long overdue. You can loosen the A.S. housing and sneak out the cap and wires but I like to see what I'm doing so I usually remove the housing too. Just be sure to replace the copper seals on any banjo bolts you remove.
Rob

[Jonathan]

I forgot to mention your other wires are also original and although better in quality are also long overdue. You can loosen the A.S. housing and sneak out the cap and wires but I like to see what I'm doing so I usually remove the housing too. Just be sure to replace the copper seals on any banjo bolts you remove.
Rob

I would really like to change all the wires out. I don't have any spare fuel hose seals though, nor a big interest in mucking with them. I agree on wanting to see what I am doing too.

Not trying to be a pain, but not wanting to make a mistake either... what did you mean by "loosen the A.S. housing?" I might be mixing up acronyms, sorry. And loosening by way of nuts and bolts just physically holding it to the engine I hope, and not much more? Got a part number I can reference for what to loosen? thx.

EDIT: I replaced the spark plugs on the RH side so far, cylinders 1,2,3. The tips of them didn't look terrible, but the threads were pretty black/dark. The top end too for the electrical connection was not very clean and shiny either. I expect this will help a lot overall with how well the car performs come Spring.

[Jonathan]

Here are a couple of pics of the spark plugs that came out of cylinders 1,2,3 (#3 is the one closest to the new plug sitting there).

386653866638667

What vintage are "Autolite" plugs if you had to guess? I don't think this is what Dunmurry used, and they haven't been changed on my watch (October 2007 onwards).

[dustybarn]

Here are a couple of pics of the spark plugs that came out of cylinders 1,2,3 (#3 is the one closest to the new plug sitting there).

386653866638667

What vintage are "Autolite" plugs if you had to guess? I don't think this is what Dunmurry used, and they haven't been changed on my watch (October 2007 onwards).

Hard to say. Autolite has been around for about 1000 years and is still in business.

[88KPH]

Is that sand on the thread tops?



Photos for new insurance value & a Christmas drive in the rain....... Loving it!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I would really like to change all the wires out. I don't have any spare fuel hose seals though, nor a big interest in mucking with them. I agree on wanting to see what I am doing too.

Not trying to be a pain, but not wanting to make a mistake either... what did you mean by "loosen the A.S. housing?" I might be mixing up acronyms, sorry. And loosening by way of nuts and bolts just physically holding it to the engine I hope, and not much more? Got a part number I can reference for what to loosen? thx.

EDIT: I replaced the spark plugs on the RH side so far, cylinders 1,2,3. The tips of them didn't look terrible, but the threads were pretty black/dark. The top end too for the electrical connection was not very clean and shiny either. I expect this will help a lot overall with how well the car performs come Spring.

Air Sensor housing. You really need to change everything now that you ripped the plugs out and disturbed 34 year old wires. If you don't your engine bay may light up like a "Grucci" fireworks display come nightfall!
If you really are afraid of the fuel fittings then just remove the;

1) Idle air regulator and the brass pipe that slides into the A.S. Hsg.
2) Vacuum solenoid at the back of the hsg. retained by a 6 MM Allen bolt
3) Two 6 MM Allen bolts holding the A.S. Hsg. support braces to the intake manifold runners and wedge a small socket under each brace.
4) Now you have access to replace the dist. cap, rotor and all wires as well as the plugs.

Never do half a tuneup. It's self defeating! You'll be happier in the end with the full job done with no need to go back there soon.

Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Hard to say. Autolite has been around for about 1000 years and is still in business.

Yes Autolight has been around and is as well known as AC Delco. With all that grit on the plugs some is sure to find it's way into the cylinders. The trick is to blow out the plug wells with compressed air BEFORE removal or....lacking that grab a vacuum cleaner and have ago at it. I suggest doing back to Bosch "Silber" or Copper spark plugs. Stay away from Bosch Platinum's as they have a tendency to fail in my experience.
Rob

[Jonathan]

Yes Autolight has been around and is as well known as AC Delco. With all that grit on the plugs some is sure to find it's way into the cylinders. The trick is to blow out the plug wells with compressed air BEFORE removal or....lacking that grab a vacuum cleaner and have ago at it. I suggest doing back to Bosch "Silber" or Copper spark plugs. Stay away from Bosch Platinum's as they have a tendency to fail in my experience.
Rob

And what would be the consequences of some grit falling into the cylinders if I might ask?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

And what would be the consequences of some grit falling into the cylinders if I might ask?

Probably nothing but it could damage a valve or the seat. Particles of sand & grit can be rather hard on machined surfaces.
Rob

[88KPH]

If you really are afraid of the fuel fittings then just remove the;

1) Idle air regulator and the brass pipe that slides into the A.S. Hsg.
2) Vacuum solenoid at the back of the hsg. retained by a 6 MM Allen bolt
3) Two 6 MM Allen bolts holding the A.S. Hsg. support braces to the intake manifold runners and wedge a small socket under each brace.
4) Now you have access to replace the dist. cap, rotor and all wires as well as the plugs.

Rob

I've done my plugs but gave up on the dizzy cap and leads as it seemed very involved and was still running ok, but would like to re-visit it.
Is there a photo/video guide to doing this?

[DMC-81]

Today I finished installing the rear fascia.

Fascia installed yesterday..
38700

LED exterior kit from DMC..
38701

Testing the bulbs on my OEM circuit boards. I had to tighten the rivets and sand the contacts with 1000 grit.
38702

My license plate bezel was really faded, so I couldn't leave it raw. I painted it with SEM trim black...
38703

The finished product...
38704

Now I can move to the interior.

[Gregadeth]

Looks good. I'm thinking about doing this in the near future. How do you like those LEDs?

[DMC-81]

Looks good. I'm thinking about doing this in the near future. How do you like those LEDs?

Hi. Thanks ! As for the LEDs, I just installed them so I can't comment on longevity, but I really like them. The kit seemed reasonably priced as well.

[SKnight]

Installed the DMOCO stainless shifter emblem. I also celebrated one year of being a DeLorean owner!
38711

[mr_maxime]

Looks good. I'm thinking about doing this in the near future. How do you like those LEDs?

I also have them. They look much better and brighter than the incandescent I had on the old boards.

[88KPH]

I've heard they are brighter, but only inline with the bulb/led. As LED's are much more directional you end up with brighter spots rather than brighter/larger light area. If that makes sense. Any pics to compare?

[DMC-81]

I've heard they are brighter, but only inline with the bulb/led. As LED's are much more directional you end up with brighter spots rather than brighter/larger light area. If that makes sense. Any pics to compare?

I know what you mean, but no, these lights don't have that problem. Here's a picture with them all on, straight on.

38718

I try to keep my car as original as possible, but after installing LEDs, I would never go back to incandescent bulbs. There are too many advantages for the LEDs.

[ccurzio]

Pulled out my registration to send with an application to insure it with Grundy.

Seriously, way better rates than American Collector or Hagerty with the same coverage.

[Stainless]

Just got a quote with Grundy. The same coverage through Grundy went from $250 to $163 compared to Heacock Classic. I know who I'll be switching to. Thanks for the tip!

[Jonathan]

Lining up spark plug wires for replacement.

Can someone confirm the recommended cylinder number order for plug wires in terms of length (shortest to longest) is:

4, 1, 2, 5, 6, 3

?

(This is the order the originals were in my car, from shortest to longest).

Thx.

[Domi]

Is this what you are looking for?
38779

[Jonathan]

Is this what you are looking for?
38779

That definitely helps, Domi, thanks!

I think the plug wires (and fuel hoses for that matter) are not so generous in their lengths to give much extra slack if you don't route them properly. This diagram will certainly help me with that. There is a similar pattern atop the fuel distributor it seems as well to get the CPR lines from the RH side of the distributor back over to the LH side where the CPR is located.

I'd still like to know whether the lengths I had put in order make sense. Some of the wires are considerably shorter than others (#4 compared to #6 for example) but some of them are not very different (#2 and #5 for example).

38780

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Lining up spark plug wires for replacement.

Can someone confirm the recommended cylinder number order for plug wires in terms of length (shortest to longest) is:

4, 1, 2, 5, 6, 3

?

(This is the order the originals were in my car, from shortest to longest).

Thx.
2 should definitely be longer than 5. Otherwise it looks about right.
Rob

[88KPH]

I know what you mean, but no, these lights don't have that problem. Here's a picture with them all on, straight on.

38718

I try to keep my car as original as possible, but after installing LEDs, I would never go back to incandescent bulbs. There are too many advantages for the LEDs.


They do look nice. Have you got an shot from 45*?
It would be nice to see a shot when someone was halfway through conversion. One side LED and one regular bulbs.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Lining up spark plug wires for replacement.

Can someone confirm the recommended cylinder number order for plug wires in terms of length (shortest to longest) is:

4, 1, 2, 5, 6, 3

?

(This is the order the originals were in my car, from shortest to longest).

Thx.
2 should definitely be longer than 5. Otherwise it looks about right.
Rob

[Jonathan]

2 should definitely be longer than 5. Otherwise it looks about right.
Rob

Hey, thanks Rob. That makes sense. I'll lay them out before putting them in permanently and see how they fit. Could be a better way to route them for all I know if I look at it in terms of what I know I don't want getting pulled on.

Here's another odd ball question:

With the intake off you sure do get some views of the engine and trans you wouldn't normally when all that stuff is blocking the line of sight. I was peering down beyond the front of the engine to where the trans starts, initially looking at where the other end of the throttle cable was hanging (the end that goes to the governor).

A little to the left, on what would be the driver's side/half of the engine and trans, I can see the vacuum hose that runs down to the vacuum modulator. This is an auto trans unique item. The hose is here: http://store.delorean.com/p-8936-vacuum-hose.aspx

My hose isn't a hose per se, because it's metal of some kind, firm anyway, not rubber. Don't know if that is what it was intended to be as it got replaced the first year I had the car when someone else was doing much of the work on it.

That aside, what I saw when I was looking down in there was a little plastic clip, not unlike the one that holds the lower speedo cable to the bracket. This one is meant to hold that hose in place I'd imagine. I don't see it on any of the diagrams though. You happen to know where it is? I couldn't get the hose/tube pushed back onto it as it is a little mushed, so I was hoping to see what it is supposed to look like when new and figure out if mine needs to get replaced or mushed back into the proper shape.

Thx.

[Peripatetic]

Today was all about the lights.

Switched out the original headlights and replaced them with LED ones. The old ones were very dim. I didn't like driving at night the lights aren't much brighter than a regular car lights but they are pure white and the DeLorean is so low I doubt I'll blind anybody.

I also upgraded my brake lights to LED. The comparison shot has LED on the left and Incandescent on the right. There were long dead spiders and mosquitos inside the tail lamps and grease behind the headlights. The grease confused me a little but ok. Next I dealt with the interior dome light, the front one never turned on so I switched it with LED, but it didn't turn on. I checked the original bulb and notice that it didn't look burnt out so I simply swapped the entire lamp with the one above the shelf and called it good. Now I have a light in front so I can find the ignition and I'll just deal with the not functioning one much later.

All of this was so easy. Except for the headlights. Why. Why would they design them like this?? Took forever. The taillight was so easy that it was misleading and the plug-and-play LED bulbs made me think the front would be easy too.

All in all, a good day. Now I can see at night, which I recommended.

[Gregadeth]

I also upgraded my brake lights to LED. The comparison shot has LED on the left and Incandescent on the right. I've noticed in comparison shots, the LEDs look a little more orange-y rather than pure red, compared to the incandescents. Is it just the camera's color balance, or are they actually slightly more orange / less red?

[Peripatetic]

I've noticed in comparison shots, the LEDs look a little more orange-y rather than pure red, compared to the incandescents. Is it just the camera's color balance, or are they actually slightly more orange / less red?
I just went outside and had someone drive my car to the end of the street and back to see the new lights.

The brake lights are definitely brighter red. But, like, really red. So it's definitely the smartphone auto color balancing.

[mr_maxime]

Changed out my flasher relay then blinker lights to leds yesterday. I changed the license plate bulbs to LEDs today. I hate how the whatever they screw into isn't glued in. Complete hassle to put them back in.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've noticed in comparison shots, the LEDs look a little more orange-y rather than pure red, compared to the incandescents. Is it just the camera's color balance, or are they actually slightly more orange / less red?

It's really hard to take photos of LEDs. Todays "auto" cameras just do not do well with bright LEDs.

Real "Ruby Red" LEDs are hard to come by when buying the LED chips themselves. But most replacement car bulbs did have the correct red color.

I'm really careful over buying things these days because of china forgeries are just crap. Buy from reputable suppliers.

[DMC5180]

Today was all about the lights.

the DeLorean is so low I doubt I'll blind anybody.
.

I thought the same thing when I installed HIDs 10 years ago. But I have had people comment that the left light was blinding them. When I look at the light pattern on the wall, the left light is slightly higher than the right. So I'd have to say alignment it important.

Can you post some lighting shots Hi/Lo on a road and on a garage door so we can get an idea of the performance and light pattern?

I've recently switched to LED in my Daily driver. A significant improvement but I need to tweak the alignments. I just went on long road trip for the holidays and I've been getting flashed quite often so I know I need to address that.


Dennis

[Jonathan]

I thought the same thing when I installed HIDs 10 years ago. But I have had people comment that the left light was blinding them. When I look at the light pattern on the wall, the left light is slightly higher than the right. So I'd have to say alignment it important.

Not trying to comment on whether they should or shouldn't be legal or illegal, but what actually is the law on headlights?

Whether it's LEDs, or the "white light" look mentioned, aftermarket or even factory on some vehicles (Dodge and Jeep I notice now have a brighter "normal" bulb).

Is there an actual amount of brightness/blindingness that is the maximum and something over that gets you ticketed? Or is it also like the way getting tinted windows in most States or Provinces gets enforced and that there is an actual law saying what is too much, but rarely gets enforced unless there was some other reason you got yourself pulled over?

Just curious as I've not only gotten flashed more than I used to since getting a newer DD, but I also see so many cars coming from the opposite direction and assume they have they brights on too. So either my own eyes are getting worse or more sensitive to this change or the lights people have in their cars are indeed changing.

[Gregadeth]

I just went outside and had someone drive my car to the end of the street and back to see the new lights.

The brake lights are definitely brighter red. But, like, really red. So it's definitely the smartphone auto color balancing.


It's really hard to take photos of LEDs. Todays "auto" cameras just do not do well with bright LEDs.

Real "Ruby Red" LEDs are hard to come by when buying the LED chips themselves. But most replacement car bulbs did have the correct red color.

I'm really careful over buying things these days because of china forgeries are just crap. Buy from reputable suppliers.
Appreciate all the info, thanks guys

[mr_maxime]

It seems like an arms race with headlights. I find a massive amount of them blinding now especially suvs and trucks. Even in my accord now, the massive amount of suvs and trucks on the road that are higher than my car means I get blinded a lot.

[Jonathan]

It seems like an arms race with headlights. I find a massive amount of them blinding now especially suvs and trucks. Even in my accord now, the massive amount of suvs and trucks on the road that are higher than my car means I get blinded a lot.

Yes! I think the same thing. Anyone living in an area dominated by trucks or SUVs (Texas, Midwestern Ontario, Alberta, etc.) gets the short end of the stick driving a "car" when your line of sight is looking directly into their headlights.

And to make matters worse, when you get even lower while driving the DeLorean, now you're in the cross hairs of headlights on all those other cars.

And that's not even counting all the people that don't understand when to use fog lights! Blinding indeed!

[Rich_NYS]

Not trying to comment on whether they should or shouldn't be legal or illegal, but what actually is the law on headlights?

Whether it's LEDs, or the "white light" look mentioned, aftermarket or even factory on some vehicles (Dodge and Jeep I notice now have a brighter "normal" bulb).

Is there an actual amount of brightness/blindingness that is the maximum and something over that gets you ticketed? Or is it also like the way getting tinted windows in most States or Provinces gets enforced and that there is an actual law saying what is too much, but rarely gets enforced unless there was some other reason you got yourself pulled over?

Remember those really bright headlights in the DCS parking lot? I'm pretty sure those were low-beams....wow.




I've not only gotten flashed more than I used to since getting a newer DD,

That has nothing to do with your car; it's because the women are able to recognize the immense amount of swagger behind your wheel! :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Last night I removed the water pump, gives nicer access to the VOD for cleaning & viewing.

I also removed the rear brake rotors; I needed to borrow an impact screwdriver to get that screw out, worked really well. Is that screw necessary, or was it just for the assembly line? I'll be sure to coat it before replacing, and not over-tighten it.

[DMC5180]

Jonathan,

The HID kit I installed back then was developed and sold by Sylvania and was DOT approved. Most of eBay kits are NOT DOT approved and typically say "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" which puts the liability on the end user.

In my case I just need to tweak the LH outer housing down slightly and I'll be good.

I know what your saying about being blinded by some of the NEW pickups and SUVs. I've been blinded from behind with curtain tall pickups.


Dennis

[nullset]

Last night I removed the water pump, gives nicer access to the VOD for cleaning & viewing.

I also removed the rear brake rotors; I needed to borrow an impact screwdriver to get that screw out, worked really well. Is that screw necessary, or was it just for the assembly line? I'll be sure to coat it before replacing, and not over-tighten it.

It's just there to keep the rotors from falling off while you put the wheel on. It's not needed. Many cars do not have them at all.

[Rich_NYS]

It's just there to keep the rotors from falling off while you put the wheel on. It's not needed. Many cars do not have them at all.

Good to know...thanks! :thumbup:

[Peripatetic]

Yes! I think the same thing. Anyone living in an area dominated by trucks or SUVs (Texas, Midwestern Ontario, Alberta, etc.) gets the short end of the stick driving a "car" when your line of sight is looking directly into their headlights.

And to make matters worse, when you get even lower while driving the DeLorean, now you're in the cross hairs of headlights on all those other cars.

And that's not even counting all the people that don't understand when to use fog lights! Blinding indeed!
In my daily driver I adjusted my headlights to aim down after I tested to see if I would be blinded if I was behind me. It was bright so I pointed them down more. On the DeLorean they don't seem to be a problem during the same test, but I still need to adjust the left side, which may have been pointing up to begin with.

But on the topic of what I've done to my car today: Pushed it home. I was maybe 125-200 feet from home (I'm bad at judging distance) so it wasn't that bad. My alternator/coolant belt ripped to shreds and I've had this experience before on my old car so I recognized the noise almost immediately. The DeLorean ran about two miles before the coolant safety valve opened and I pulled the brakes and heard boiling behind me. The repair should be easy and it stopped on my street so... I'm good.

[Jonathan]

That has nothing to do with your car; it's because the women are able to recognize the immense amount of swagger behind your wheel! :thumbup:

I've had all day to try and think of some reply to that and I got nothing, lol.


Jonathan,

The HID kit I installed back then was developed and sold by Sylvania and was DOT approved. Most of eBay kits are NOT DOT approved and typically say "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" which puts the liability on the end user.

In my case I just need to tweak the LH outer housing down slightly and I'll be good.

I know what your saying about being blinded by some of the NEW pickups and SUVs. I've been blinded from behind with curtain tall pickups.


Dennis

That liability on the customer really is what it is, isn't it? Crap approach if you ask me. The whole thing just reeks of that "don't tell me what I can and can't do" mentality yet blatantly ignores whether you're negatively affecting someone else with your choices. Mr. Spock wouldn't be impressed, I know that.

Trying to sort out "too bright" lights one by one isn't going to work I'd imagine. I'd say we might need new laws to cover it, but more accurately, we might just need the same laws we have but ACTUALLY ENFORCE THEM, lol.


In my daily driver I adjusted my headlights to aim down after I tested to see if I would be blinded if I was behind me. It was bright so I pointed them down more. On the DeLorean they don't seem to be a problem during the same test, but I still need to adjust the left side, which may have been pointing up to begin with.

But on the topic of what I've done to my car today: Pushed it home. I was maybe 125-200 feet from home (I'm bad at judging distance) so it wasn't that bad. My alternator/coolant belt ripped to shreds and I've had this experience before on my old car so I recognized the noise almost immediately. The DeLorean ran about two miles before the coolant safety valve opened and I pulled the brakes and heard boiling behind me. The repair should be easy and it stopped on my street so... I'm good.

Points added for recognizing that belt is also your "coolant" belt.

Points deducted for not stopping the car right away while your coolant pump was not pumping and waiting until the steam started to pour out.

We'll see how your plus/minus is once you fire it back up and find out if you got any overheating damage to the engine. I hope you didn't.

[Peripatetic]

Points added for recognizing that belt is also your "coolant" belt.

Points deducted for not stopping the car right away while your coolant pump was not pumping and waiting until the steam started to pour out.

We'll see how your plus/minus is once you fire it back up and find out if you got any overheating damage to the engine. I hope you didn't.I'm going to have to give back my points for the coolant belt knowledge. I did not know at the time that it also operated the coolant. That came after I pushed it home, let it cool, and opened the covers. I had an alternator belt disintegrate on me before, but it was only for the alternator. That car (Pontiac) gave me nearly 20 miles before I parked it at the family's mechanic and shut it off on my time. I figured I had a similar range for the DeLorean which failed two miles or so from home.

But I did shut off the fan, turned off the accent lights, shut off the radio (and ejected the tape--wasn't sure if that mattered), and dimmed the console in preparation if this counts for points.

[88KPH]

Jonathan,

The HID kit I installed back then was developed and sold by Sylvania and was DOT approved. Most of eBay kits are NOT DOT approved and typically say "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" which puts the liability on the end user.



Dennis

Because of glare issues, In the UK HiD kits can only be fitted to self-levelling headlights. Not required in US?

[DMC 2692]

Today I replaced the steering column bushing as well as the steering shaft and U joints from DMC Texas. The car drives like a dream!

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[Gregadeth]

Today I replaced the steering column bushing
Which method did you use, and how difficult and/or time-consuming was it?

[DMC 2692]

I pulled the steering column and used the bolt and washer and nut method recommended by DMC to install the bushing. Took about 2 hours but I had another person helping which you'll definitely need. The only reason I removed the whole column from the car is because when I pushed the inside of the column up into the outside the gain access to the hole I couldn't grab it enough to pull it back out. But it's only 2 bolts and 3 plugs to remove the whole thing so it's not that bad.

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[mr_maxime]

Today I did some sealing on my door, hopefully fixing the leak and I installed some color changing underglow LEDs.
38912
38913
38911

[DMC-81]

I took my wife and 2 young daughters (separately of course) for a drive today. After almost 2 years on jack stands, it's great to be able to finally drive it. Great times! :thumbup2:

38920

Happy New Year!

[Rich_NYS]

Removed my radiator, how do I get the lower support brackets off? I feel a big slotted screw-head "in there."

[sdg3205]

10 mm IIRC at the frame and 7mm IIRC nut and bold thru the rad frame at the rad

[Gregadeth]

Re-painted black the rock screen under the front fascia. Cleaned the electrical connection at the rear tail lights to fix an intermittent brake light issue. Removed the original air intake assembly / stove pipe unit, and installed the cold air intake from DMC. Completely forgot to take before-and-after pics :(

[nullset]

I've had a busy year!

I removed all the props from 2930 and cleaned up the stainless. I also cleaned out the fuel tank and got the engine going. She sounds great!

I'm currently diagnosing a low fuel pressure issue. I've inserted the Kjet Fuel Injection tester between the mixture unit and the control pressure regulator, and see ~50psi when the fuel pump is jumpered to run continuously. From what I understand, I should see around 70.

I'm considering whether to replace the fuel filter ( it could be clogged from bad fuel ), or just throw in a new pump from DMC ( $100 for their old style pump seems worth it).

I'm looking forward to getting 2930 ready for her next adventure.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've had a busy year!

I removed all the props from 2930 and cleaned up the stainless. I also cleaned out the fuel tank and got the engine going. She sounds great!

I'm currently diagnosing a low fuel pressure issue. I've inserted the Kjet Fuel Injection tester between the mixture unit and the control pressure regulator, and see ~50psi when the fuel pump is jumpered to run continuously. From what I understand, I should see around 70.

I'm considering whether to replace the fuel filter ( it could be clogged from bad fuel ), or just throw in a new pump from DMC ( $100 for their old style pump seems worth it).

I'm looking forward to getting 2930 ready for her next adventure.

If you don't have the tester valve shut, you would see 50 PSI since your reading control pressure. You need to shut the valve to read primary pressure of 75 PSI.

[nullset]

If you don't have the tester valve shut, you would see 50 PSI since your reading control pressure. You need to shut the valve to read primary pressure of 75 PSI.

I tried with the valve both opened and closed, and still saw ~50 psi. It is possible that the fuel filter is clogged and introducing a pressure loss through the system. I'm not sure the best way to test the pump separately from everything else. I could hook the tester up directly between the pump and the return, making a small loop.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I tried with the valve both opened and closed, and still saw ~50 psi. It is possible that the fuel filter is clogged and introducing a pressure loss through the system. I'm not sure the best way to test the pump separately from everything else. I could hook the tester up directly between the pump and the return, making a small loop.

My guess would be your primary pressure regulator is not working (check that small O-ring for damage).

I would not think the fuel filter would cause it because there is not much fuel flow when your testing. It could be the pump itself is faulty but check the PPR first.

[88KPH]

Think I've fixed the speedo for the 3rd time!

[burch]

Replaced broken trip odometer reset shaft. Changed all (save for the battery light) instrument cluster lights with LEDs. Had 7 or 8 deep scratches on the instrument cluster lens, so wet sanded, dry sanded and polished the crap out of it, looks nearly new :)

[DMC-81]

Today, I replaced the relays and circuit breakers with DMC's kit. After driving it afterwards, I noticed a major difference with the fan speeds. Before they hesitated or didn't even work when I changed the speeds. Now the switch works like brand new. :woot:

39019

[DMC 2692]

Today, I replaced the relays and circuit breakers with DMC's kit. After driving it afterwards, I noticed a major difference with the fan speeds. Before they hesitated or didn't even work when I changed the speeds. Now the switch works like brand new. :woot:

39019

Hmm I wonder if that could be my issue with no fan speed 3. 1, 2, and 4 work just fine but when you switch it to 3 the fan doesn't run at all
t

[jawn101]

Hmm I wonder if that could be my issue with no fan speed 3. 1, 2, and 4 work just fine but when you switch it to 3 the fan doesn't run at all
t

This could be several things. The 3rd and 4th speeds each have their own relay, but there is also a resistor in the bottom of the heater box that factors into things. The resistor can get very corroded/broken from A/C condensation over time. Or there could just be a disconnected wire there!

39040

[DMC 2692]

This could be several things. The 3rd and 4th speeds each have their own relay, but there is also a resistor in the bottom of the heater box that factors into things. The resistor can get very corroded/broken from A/C condensation over time. Or there could just be a disconnected wire there!

39040

Is that resistor easy to get to? I may check there first and then check the relays. My car still has all the original relays so I'm planning on replacing them anyway but I should have a look at that resistor too

[DMC-81]

Hmm I wonder if that could be my issue with no fan speed 3. 1, 2, and 4 work just fine but when you switch it to 3 the fan doesn't run at all
t

Perhaps. Speed #3 was the worst for me. The purple relays are all the same in my pic, so maybe you can locate the relay for #3 and switch it with another that you know works just for a test. (Be careful to only switch the purple ones.) My old (original) relays had pristine contacts, so it was the internals that wore out. Here's a guide to the relays:

https://support.delorean.com/kb/a53/electrical-relays-and-relay-updates.aspx

That relay is #3 in the guide.

[jawn101]

Is that resistor easy to get to? I may check there first and then check the relays. My car still has all the original relays so I'm planning on replacing them anyway but I should have a look at that resistor too

Super easy. Two screws holding it in to the bottom of the fan box. Look under the passenger side dashboard and you'll see it - 4 wires sticking out of the bottom of the box. Resistor looks like this. Check it for corrosion, damaged contacts, broken wires, etc.

Also, since you haven't done your relays before (and based on your join date I'm guessing you're a new owner - congrats) make sure you are careful when removing/reinstalling relays that you don't push any of the contacts out of the bottom of the sockets. It's a real pain to try and diagnose the odd behavior that you get when just one pin of a relay isn't connected to anything because the contact fell out of the receptacle underneath.

39041

[DMC 2692]

Super easy. Two screws holding it in to the bottom of the fan box. Look under the passenger side dashboard and you'll see it - 4 wires sticking out of the bottom of the box. Resistor looks like this. Check it for corrosion, damaged contacts, broken wires, etc.

Also, since you haven't done your relays before (and based on your join date I'm guessing you're a new owner - congrats) make sure you are careful when removing/reinstalling relays that you don't push any of the contacts out of the bottom of the sockets. It's a real pain to try and diagnose the odd behavior that you get when just one pin of a relay isn't connected to anything because the contact fell out of the receptacle underneath.

39041
Yes I'm a new owner! Bought the car on December 9th. I'll check the resistor and I'll probably order a relay kit this week as well. This a a great forum with tons of knowledge it's a great place!

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[DMC-81]

Yes I'm a new owner! Bought the car on December 9th. I'll check the resistor and I'll probably order a relay kit this week as well. This a a great forum with tons of knowledge it's a great place!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Congrats and welcome!

[jawn101]

Yes I'm a new owner! Bought the car on December 9th. I'll check the resistor and I'll probably order a relay kit this week as well. This a a great forum with tons of knowledge it's a great place!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Don't be scared... but if you're going to do your relays, you really want to carefully check your fuse block as well. I wrote a very detailed how-to here on the forum (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1070-How-to-Replace-fuse-block) that shows you what to look for and what the process will be to replace it. If you're going to tackle the electrical compartment, consider doing this job as well. If you have the OEM block, it's not a matter of if, but a matter of when it will need to be done. It makes a huge difference. Make sure to read through the comments in that thread as well, as a lot of folks weighed in with some helpful tips further to what I initially wrote.

Welcome and enjoy!

[DMC 2692]

Don't be scared... but if you're going to do your relays, you really want to carefully check your fuse block as well. I wrote a very detailed how-to here on the forum (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1070-How-to-Replace-fuse-block) that shows you what to look for and what the process will be to replace it. If you're going to tackle the electrical compartment, consider doing this job as well. If you have the OEM block, it's not a matter of if, but a matter of when it will need to be done. It makes a huge difference. Make sure to read through the comments in that thread as well, as a lot of folks weighed in with some helpful tips further to what I initially wrote.

Welcome and enjoy!
Thank you!! I have pretty decent mechanical and electronic background so I think with the tips from here I'll be fine. I wonder if any of those relays is why my tach doesn't work. I posted about it before and someone seemed to thing the tach itself is bad since it's stuck at 7000 rpms. I haven't gotten around to replacing that yet. Biggest job I did so far is the steering column bushing and new shaft and u joints

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[jawn101]

Thank you!! I have pretty decent mechanical and electronic background so I think with the tips from here I'll be fine. I wonder if any of those relays is why my tach doesn't work. I posted about it before and someone seemed to thing the tach itself is bad since it's stuck at 7000 rpms. I haven't gotten around to replacing that yet. Biggest job I did so far is the steering column bushing and new shaft and u joints

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Stuck tach as in it never moves at all? That could be internally a bad gauge. If you have an erratic gauge that skips around a lot under normal conditions, that is a symptom of bad grounds. And believe me, you've got plenty of those to deal with as well! All part of the fun. I really enjoyed doing my electrical system as it made a very satisfying amount of difference in the car's behavior for the amount of work that went into it.

[DMC 2692]

Stuck tach as in it never moves at all? That could be internally a bad gauge. If you have an erratic gauge that skips around a lot under normal conditions, that is a symptom of bad grounds. And believe me, you've got plenty of those to deal with as well! All part of the fun. I really enjoyed doing my electrical system as it made a very satisfying amount of difference in the car's behavior for the amount of work that went into it.
Yeah it never moves at all. I'll probably replace it in the spring as well as install the long speedo cable from Hervey since I'll have the binnacle out. I ordered an angle drive from him last week as well

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[vwdmc16]

Stirpped down the 2.8 to a bare block today. Got to get moving on this rebuild.