What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[DMC-81]

Today I removed the passenger window motor. It was broken in the typical spot, the plastic elbow:

39117 39118

I also removed the toll booth window for cleaning.
39119

That glob of urethane on the bottom right was catching on the outer door skin during window travel and made the window stick and go out of alignment at the top of the travel. I trimmed it flush.

All clean for eventual tinting.
39120

Tomorrow I'll put the new motor in.

[DMC5180]

As long as the window is out, you may want to verify the carrier is glued in the correct location. It should be centered between the two dimples in the glass.


Dennis

[DMC-81]

As long as the window is out, you may want to verify the carrier is glued in the correct location. It should be centered between the two dimples in the glass.


Dennis

Thanks Dennis. I'll check that for sure.

Do you know if the guide channels should be lubed with anything. Others have suggested silicone spray or dry silicone lube. They don't seem to have been lubed originally, so I don't know if they should be, or just left dry.

Thanks.

[DMC5180]

I'll differ that to Dave Swingle. He's had lots of experience with the drop glass work.


Dennis

[DMC5180]

Dana,

Check out post #2 and #4 here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7338-Power-window-guide-cleaning&p=106900&viewfull=1#post106900

[DMC-81]

Great! That's very helpful. Thanks

[DMC5180]

Btw: it looks like someone got a little carried away with the urethane. That doesn't look factory to me.
You can certainly see the difference when referencing the photos in the #4 post in that reference thread.


Dennis

[DMC-81]

Btw: it looks like someone got a little carried away with the urethane. That doesn't look factory to me.
You can certainly see the difference when referencing the photos in the #4 post in that reference thread.


Dennis

I see the difference. Actually, on my window, the black stripe is satin black paint, applied to the inside. I wonder if that is factory for early to mid 81s?

[Patrick C]

Actually, on my window, the black stripe is satin black paint, applied to the inside. I wonder if that is factory for early to mid 81s?

Nope.

[berickson926]

PO had put a set of cheap aftermarket wheels on the car before I bought it. Today I finally finished my project of snagging a set of OE wheels, getting them powder coated and new tires mounted!

39157391583915939160

[DMC-81]

Well I got my passenger window motor installed today. I tried both versions in this thread:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8285-How-to-change-the-window-motors-(instructions-from-A1)

First without separating the motor from the bracket. I believe people when they say it can be done, but I couldn't make it work without forcing it. I had to separate the motor. I put the motor in first, and then I had to insert the track/bracket(without the z tabs) in the door from the top middle hole. That was the only way for me to get it in the door without force. :dunno:

Other than that, it assembled in the door without major problems. I tested it just now and it works beautifully! :yesss:

I opted to use garage door lubricant (almost clear in color) on the guides.

[DMC-81]

Nope.

Hmm, interesting! I'll see if the driver's side is the same. I think the passenger side interior panels were removed before, as there were a couple missing screws. Whoever did it taped it off beforehand. Now that I think about it, I can't be sure if it was paint, or just urethane.

By the way Patrick, I love the look of your car. Very tasteful upgrades/ modifications. :thumbup:

[Gregadeth]

Installed new angle drive dust cap to get a working speedo again.

Started replacement of the steering column bushing (to be continued). I think it's fantastic that DMC sends the instructions with it (which I followed to a T), but for whatever reason my new bushing doesn't wanna go thru the fiberglass hole evenly. I went thru 2 bushings already. Even tried their bolt-washer-bushing-washer-nut-socket suggestion to tighten it on there.

[DMC5180]

Installed new angle drive dust cap to get a working speedo again.

Started replacement of the steering column bushing (to be continued). I think it's fantastic that DMC sends the instructions with it (which I followed to a T), but for whatever reason my new bushing doesn't wanna go thru the fiberglass hole evenly. I went thru 2 bushings already. Even tried their bolt-washer-bushing-washer-nut-socket suggestion to tighten it on there.

Post a couple photos inside and outside so we get a better idea.


Dennis

[Gregadeth]

Post a couple photos inside and outside so we get a better idea.


Dennis
From the wheel well:
39377

From inside the car:
39374

The new bushings that I messed up:
3937539376

[DMC5180]

Looks like hole in the steel (pedal box) is not in alignment with the Fiberglas hole. I'm fairly sure the bushing just fits the steel opening and the fiberglass side is a clearance opening for the protruding side of the grommet bushing. You made need to open the fiberglass hole to get the needed clearance. However, look around for indication that the area hasn't been disturbed from what would appear to be factory installation work.


Dennis

[DMC5180]

Looks like hole in the steel (pedal box) is not in alignment with the Fiberglas hole. I'm fairly sure the bushing just fits the steel opening and the fiberglass side is a clearance opening for the protruding side of the grommet bushing. You made need to open the fiberglass hole to get the needed clearance. However, look around for indication that the area hasn't been disturbed from what would appear to be factory installation work. Also the washer stack up on the nut side works much better with a socket that is large enough to accept the bushing when drawn into it.


Dennis

[Bitsyncmaster]

Looks like hole in the steel (pedal box) is not in alignment with the Fiberglas hole. I'm fairly sure the bushing just fits the steel opening and the fiberglass side is a clearance opening for the protruding side of the grommet bushing. You made need to open the fiberglass hole to get the needed clearance. However, look around for indication that the area hasn't been disturbed from what would appear to be factory installation work.


Dennis

+1

You should see bear metal all around the hole on both sides of the plate. Don't know what that black epoxy looking stuff on the outside is.

[mr_maxime]

Drove it in the rain. Nearly got hit by suv pulling out of gas station then swerving into my lane.

[DMC-81]

+1

You should see bear metal all around the hole on both sides of the plate. Don't know what that black epoxy looking stuff on the outside is.

+2 I just checked mine and there is nothing obstructing the metal hole. Here is a pic:

39378

[Gregadeth]

Thanks Dennis, Dave, and Dana (the 3 Ds :) )
So it sounds like I have to clear up some of that epoxy stuff on the outer side, as well as use a socket in place of some of the washers so that the bushing can slip into it when pressed into place. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll continue tackling this on saturday.

[DMC-81]

Today I got my new window motor almost installed on the drivers side. I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. :swear1: In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:

This time, I didn't even take the H shaped handle bracket out as I tried unsuccessfully to insert the unit though that opening on the passenger side. I took the motor apart, glued the spacers to the motor, put the motor in the door thorough the hole that it clamps to, and then fished the bracket ( without the z tabs) down through the top middle hole. Then I assembled the unit in the door, using blue lock tight on the 3 motor screws.

All in all, it was a successful day. I'll secure it and connect it next. Here's a pic of the old and new motors:
39462

Both old motors were broken at the plastic elbow and seized.

39463

[Michael Babb]

A few weeks ago actually, but installed the late style pull straps on my early '81 car. Pics of the progress below:

39467

39468

39469

39470

39471

39472

39473

39474

39475

39476

[OZ DMC]

I have been quietly working on the refurbishment of 2065 in Australia since I purchased it in June 2015.

Steering, brakes, wiring issues and water leaks have been fixed so thought it was time to tackle the doors with a hit list as follows:-

1. Check operation of the central locking – works intermittently from passengers door only
2. Fix/adjust the sliding windows on both doors, and
3. Check why the driver’s door occasionally locks and won’t open without a lot of jiggling of the door lock and opener from inside.
4. Contemplate an upgraded or remote locking system.

Got the passengers door interior panel off and checked the door lock/open operation. The passenger’s side lock/open has always been fine so it was a good way to learn how everything works.

I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.:ohcrap:

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.

I don’t appear to have an inertia switch and I’m not game to play with the door relays (numbered 13 & 14) in the fuse box just yet (not sure that would have any effect):thinkin:

Any advice would be very much appreciated. There's got to be a way to open this door!

OZ DMC
2065
Australia

[DMCMW Dave]

I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. :swear1: In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:
]

Must be a very early car. Later cars have a notch on either end of the plate so that you can press the tabs in with a small screwdriver. Here's a hint - before you put it back together, or even later, drill a small hole (3/16) on either end of the hole that the switch snaps into. This will give you access to the tabs without any special tools. This is hidden when the escutcheon is in place.

Take a look at this photo - you can see the notches at either end of the rectangular hole. That's what they are there for, and the folks in the factory figured it out in about week #3. . . .

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx?src=/images/Product/large/105227.JPG

[DMCMW Dave]

I
I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.:ohcrap:

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.


OZ DMC
2065
Australia


You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

[OZ DMC]

You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

Thank you Dave,

I closed the door with a good slam as it was only half closed. Now the door seems to be to be fitting too tight as the door now sits a fraction lower than the rear quarter panel whereas it was nice and flush before. Door fit and closing has not been a problem before, just the locking mechanism.

I will keep at it.

Very much appreciate your response.

Best regards.
OZ DMC

[opethmike]

Dave's 100% spot on. I had this EXACT same thing happen to me a number of years ago. I did as he described, and after LOTS of persistence working the inner mechanicals by hand it eventually popped open.

[81dmc]

I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:

You do know that DMCH has reproduction LH/RH escutcheons (http://store.delorean.com/p-10409-escutcheon-lh-rh.aspx) available, right?

[steve6864]

Uncovered 6864 from 14" of snow that we got here in the Mountains of N.C. Took advantage of a 60 degree day and checked fluids etc... Installed a new throttle body plate that I spent $80 on and have no idea if it will improve air flow or not,but,car seems to start faster and settles into an idle more quickly. Love every opportunity to get into the VOD and did some general cleaning and re-routing of wires while I was in there. Replaced the pin that holds the throttle linkage onto the ball too.While I was at it for no reason at all I took the Stainless overflow tank off and gave it a good cleaning inside and out and toppped off with fresh Anti-freeze. Driving it tomorrow.

[DMC-81]

Must be a very early car. Later cars have a notch on either end of the plate so that you can press the tabs in with a small screwdriver. Here's a hint - before you put it back together, or even later, drill a small hole (3/16) on either end of the hole that the switch snaps into. This will give you access to the tabs without any special tools. This is hidden when the escutcheon is in place.

Take a look at this photo - you can see the notches at either end of the rectangular hole. That's what they are there for, and the folks in the factory figured it out in about week #3. . . .

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx?src=/images/Product/large/105227.JPG

Thanks for the tip Dave. Yeah, those little tabs would've saved the day.


You do know that DMCH has reproduction LH/RH escutcheons (http://store.delorean.com/p-10409-escutcheon-lh-rh.aspx) available, right?

:facepalm: No, I didn't realize that! That's great that they're available again. Oh well, at least I was on my toes when I took it off!

Thanks for the update.

[OZ DMC]

Dave's 100% spot on. I had this EXACT same thing happen to me a number of years ago. I did as he described, and after LOTS of persistence working the inner mechanicals by hand it eventually popped open.

Thanks opethmike,

I have had to suspend operations for the moment to attend to family issues but I will crack this sooner or later.

Thanks for your response.

Best Regards

OZ DMC

[88KPH]

Tidying engine.

I always find it a bit embarrassing opening the engine bay.
You have all this sleek stainless, people are interested. ..... and its like
opening the lid of a parts bin wires, tape, connectors. ... yuck!

I spent a couple of hours covering and a little rerouting. ....

39492

Also made a cover for the naff looking resistors. Made from perforated stainless, very happy with it. ........
39491
39493

[Jonathan]

Tidying engine.

I always find it a bit embarrassing opening the engine bay.
You have all this sleek stainless, people are interested. ..... and its like
opening the lid of a parts bin wires, tape, connectors. ... yuck!

I spent a couple of hours covering and a little rerouting. ....

39492

Also made a cover for the naff looking resistors. Made from perforated stainless, very happy with it. ........
39491
39493

Is your ballast resistor stock, because it isn't wired up correctly?

The stock resistors have a joint on the right side, which then three connections are on that side and only a single connection on the left side.

That blue plastic wire connector (presumably) helping you turn the engine bay light on and off could be replaced with the little tab that was meant to go there...

http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx

[Rich_NYS]

A few weeks ago actually, but installed the late style pull straps on my early '81 car.

Looks good! I have the kit to do the same to my '81, thanks for posting the pics.

[88KPH]

Is your ballast resistor stock, because it isn't wired up correctly?

The stock resistors have a joint on the right side, which then three connections are on that side and only a single connection on the left side.



Someone else said that too. Has anyone got a nice clear pic (showing wire colours) of one wired correctly? Cheers

[Jonathan]

Someone else said that too. Has anyone got a nice clear pic (showing wire colours) of one wired correctly? Cheers

The lighting on this photo doesn't let you see the colours of the wires very well, so I included the schematic someone made as well.

This was the first, and only time, my car let me down (...not counting a plugged auto trans filter last season). It was the first season I had the car and when my resistor wasn't wired right, it melted off one of the connectors just as I parked the car at an A&W cruise night. Car wouldn't start and another car guy saw it and we put a new connector on. But since the wires were not on the right terminals (I was missing that double metal tab on the upper right) it happened again a week later. That was the first time really using the forum and benefiting from the kind of help you get here. I posted a photo and had a few guys tell me how to fix it within the hour.

3950939510

EDIT: just noticed that photo also shows that engine bay light switch tab I mentioned. Now, my switch, when I got my car originally, didn't work 'cause you can see the bottom half of the switch is spilling out from the plastic clips in the middle having snapped. New switch and good to go. Same switch used in the glovebox too if anyone was ever in a bind to get that working. Not sure why someone would be in a bind with those though as neither of them do much lighting up.

[DMC-81]

Today I finished installing my driver side window motor. I also replaced all 24 M5 rocker panel screws. Thankfully, they all came out. I cleaned the rivnuts and applied never-seize on the new ones.

Next on the list is the DLM mod, and latch/lock adjustment while I have the door panel trim off.

39594

39595

39596

[88KPH]

Changed wiring on my resistor.

[Edwin5814]

I added a third brake light. I used two 4.7 inch light bars with smoked lenses from Custom Dynamics. The smoked lenses are barely noticeable underneath the top louver until they turn bright red. I like how the red light bars are split up because of the center louver bracket. It matches the dual left and dual right brake lights.

395973959839599

[DMC-81]

I added a third brake light. I used two 4.7 inch light bars with smoked lenses from Custom Dynamics. The smoked lenses are barely noticeable underneath the top louver until they turn bright red. I like how the red light bars are split up because of the center louver bracket. It matches the dual left and dual right brake lights.

395973959839599

Very Cool! That's the most incognito 3rd brake light I've seen yet. :thumbup2: Does it attach with 2 sided tape etc, and how did you run the wires?

Cheers,

[Edwin5814]

Very Cool! That's the most incognito 3rd brake light I've seen yet. :thumbup2: Does it attach with 2 sided tape etc, and how did you run the wires?

Cheers,

The top of the light bars were flat enough for me to use 2 sided tape. I did use EdR5150's write up on how to run the wires here - http://www.16908.info/?p=1161

[iflights]

The top of the light bars were flat enough for me to use 2 sided tape. I did use EdR5150's write up on how to run the wires here - http://www.16908.info/?p=1161

Which Custom Dynamics' product did you use for this?

[Edwin5814]

Which Custom Dynamics' product did you use for this?

I used the Knight Riderz light bar model LB01S - http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm They sell them on their website and on eBay.

I didn't care for the Knight Rider sequential lights and the flashing brake lights. They are expensive, but worth it for being just the right size to hide. The keyword, per DMC-81, and what I was going for is "incognito".

39600

[DMC5180]

I'm curious if used a piece of aluminum angle to transition the back side 3M to the underside of the upper louvre?

I installed a similar setup 20 years ago but they were designed for 90 degree mounting with 3M tape. The only issue I had with the install was the original adhesive tape would let go from the louvre on occasion due to Solar Heating of the louvre. I fixed that be using white 3M VHB tape.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/a4411b633032b92098daf8d8db10c155.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/2648cacd14dcbbd1ceda1fa298134c22.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/89cccfde962f355cf8440c4aca0cbafa.jpg

These units came from JCWhitney but were discontinued years ago.


Dennis

[Jonathan]

I'm also very interested in what you did to deal with the "90 degree mounting" issue.

I would like to put in a 3rd brake light, but wasn't sure how to mount them so they point back and not down (assuming the backside surface is what you're taping it directly to).

[andyd]

Today I fitted jewellery
39610

Not as pretty fitted!
39609

Thanks dave/julee/mike/suzy!

I think I had a lucky escape!
39611

[Farrar]

I went into the garage to get some stuff and saw that it was still there.

[81dmc]

Removed separating windshield, both torsion bars, right front fender, and fascia. Time for a proper door alignment!

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/40ED6C77-076B-4B0C-84E0-8602D399E816_zpsvcavcy2o.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/40ED6C77-076B-4B0C-84E0-8602D399E816_zpsvcavcy2o.jpg.html)


http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/57F2D32D-CE4D-4A55-8808-29F7FEB15CFC_zpsh6ufoxv7.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/57F2D32D-CE4D-4A55-8808-29F7FEB15CFC_zpsh6ufoxv7.jpg.html)

[88KPH]

think your garage is too small!

[DMC-81]

My new springs have been on for a while, so yesterday I adjusted my rear suspension to match the height of my "lowered" front suspension (I was conservative on the height - basically 2 inch gap). I got lucky and ended up getting all the fender gaps within 1/16" of each other. I see that the tie rods and drive axles are almost level at this height.

Front:
39615

Rear:
39616

Now I can take the car in to have an alignment done, and hopefully on the same trip, get my door windows tinted.

[Gregadeth]

Hey Dana, how do you still have a 2 inch gap with lowered springs on the front? That seems too high.

[DMC-81]

Hey Dana, how do you still have a 2 inch gap with lowered springs on the front? That seems too high.

Yeah, that was my choice in springs. I didn't want the front tire to be within "striking distance" of those fenders. :paranoid: I also didn't want the ride to be too harsh. I think I'm now within 1 or 2 clicks on the shocks of an ideal ride for me.

I find it is now a "normal" height, rather than lowered, compared to the original front springs.

To each his own I guess. :)

[81dmc]

Installed front windshield with denatured alcohol, window weld, and an extra set of hands...

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/9A66D90F-8192-485A-BE1C-6B1112C07DC2_zpsfnv9kl0m.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/9A66D90F-8192-485A-BE1C-6B1112C07DC2_zpsfnv9kl0m.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/23DF1E98-D969-4759-8F3E-B332428DDFA5_zpsswi4cjsk.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/23DF1E98-D969-4759-8F3E-B332428DDFA5_zpsswi4cjsk.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/539A9023-85AA-4EC2-BDBB-2522541D7756_zpsdgloivyy.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/539A9023-85AA-4EC2-BDBB-2522541D7756_zpsdgloivyy.jpg.html)

[88KPH]

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

[81dmc]

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

The wheel is a Momo Millenium Evo, but an adaptor is needed for it to fit.

[Patrick C]

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

I just sold one, but it looks like a few others have popped up again on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331405766648?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252154617429?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[81dmc]

I just sold one, but it looks like a few others have popped up again on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331405766648?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252154617429?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I had one of those, and it was complete junk IMHO. In the end, I bought a genuine Momo to replace the cheap knockoff.

[DMC5180]

I had one of those, and it was complete junk IMHO. In the end, I bought a genuine Momo to replace the cheap knockoff.

Excellent choice [emoji106]


Dennis

[mr_maxime]

I painted one side vent last night using Rustoleum Paint for Plastic. Not too bad. I was planning on working on the rest and repainting the bumpers today, but it is way colder than I anticipated.

[Patrick C]

I had one of those, and it was complete junk IMHO. In the end, I bought a genuine Momo to replace the cheap knockoff.

I think it depends on which factory in China made it. Some of them are nearly indistinguishable from the genuine Momos. Somewhere around here there is a post comparing the two side-by-side (a knockoff vs. genuine Momo) and they are nearly exact.

[Gary]

39692

That is an interesting lower door strut connection.

[DMC5180]

That's the henninger and associates strut mount.


Dennis

[81dmc]

That's the henninger and associates strut mount.


Dennis

WRONG!



I made that bracket using a piece of aluminum, the ball stud from the door, and 4 bolts...

[81dmc]

Here are some pics if anyone's interested...

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/image.jpg1_zpsdmx0wuai.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/image.jpg1_zpsdmx0wuai.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg.html)

[EdR5150]

I finished cleaning all my latches, and reinstalling them. I also eliminated the front lock rods, so the latches only lock at the rear of the doors, and the lock rods don't have to be kept in sync. The danger is you could drive over a bump or do something that would engage a front lock. I made a small modification so the latch never locks:
39704
Simply wrap some wire around the arm so it is kept in the unlock position:
39705
After using the door latch and lock adjustment procedure, and testing everything, it appears to be a success.
More details in my blog post: http://www.16908.info/?p=2843

[DMC5180]

WRONG!



I made that bracket using a piece of aluminum, the ball stud from the door, and 4 bolts...

So I stand corrected and vaguely remember seeing that a while back.
Your 4 bolt method is similar to the henninger bracket with exception of ball stud mounting. So don't be offended if I made a mistake identifying it from the sliver of a view that was being pointed at in the photo.


Dennis

[81dmc]

So I stand corrected and vaguely remember seeing that a while back.
Your 4 bolt method is similar to the henninger bracket with exception of ball stud mounting. So don't be offended if I made a mistake identifying it from the sliver of a view that was being pointed at in the photo.


Dennis

No offense taken!

Why would I be offended if my cheap $50 bracket was mistaken for a $500 piece?


Thank you

[Ryan S.]

Here are some pics if anyone's interested...



http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/image.jpg2_zpsy3zc9snr.jpg.html)

Very nice. :thumbup:

[Ozzie]

Hello All. Have been out of touch due to some family related events in the past few months. Things have settled to a new norm now, enough that I can focus a bit more on my car hobbies and topics. So with that, this weekend:

a) Finished driver side felt removal, replaced with a "window sweep" (http://www.topsdown.com/product.php?productid=1147).
The idea came from this site (search: felt removal), works great, cost as of this writing was $25 for both doors, but cheapest shipping was $14. The vendor is in Florida so mine were actually delivered the next day(!).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39748&d=1455493316

b) Resolved a cold start issue. The last time I turned the ignition off after a drive, instead of the engine dying it sort of accelerated a tad, maybe a half second on its own - so on a follow up start up it would just crank and not turn. I swapped the CSV and WUR, and it started right up. After that swap, with connectors back on the proper configuration, it all started fine again. So either a loose or dirty connection somewhere or a TTS that may be going. (Thanks Dave/Bitsyncmaster for diagnostic tips)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39747&d=1455493315
Hmm, not really visible here, but that engine bay and the panels need some detailing work - probably get to that in the coming weeks.

c) Topped off air on tires and ...went for the first drive of the year.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39749&d=1455493316
Felt great to be in the D again (..got a thumbs up even before I left the neighborhood!)

[81dmc]

Wrapped my dash in leather. (correctly this time)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/248EA67B-2542-4867-9B2B-9DE184FAF6D6_zpsfpayi8pp.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/248EA67B-2542-4867-9B2B-9DE184FAF6D6_zpsfpayi8pp.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/CCD01095-3EF1-4826-B1F5-A2D645F7DB46_zps4jmguhgo.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/CCD01095-3EF1-4826-B1F5-A2D645F7DB46_zps4jmguhgo.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/BFCE11CF-2BC7-4C2B-BAEA-2378C0CFDA60_zpsnnc0dnsi.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/BFCE11CF-2BC7-4C2B-BAEA-2378C0CFDA60_zpsnnc0dnsi.jpg.html)

[gullwingD]

Looks good! I would like to see some images of that installed.


Wrapped my dash in leather. (correctly this time)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/248EA67B-2542-4867-9B2B-9DE184FAF6D6_zpsfpayi8pp.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/248EA67B-2542-4867-9B2B-9DE184FAF6D6_zpsfpayi8pp.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/CCD01095-3EF1-4826-B1F5-A2D645F7DB46_zps4jmguhgo.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/CCD01095-3EF1-4826-B1F5-A2D645F7DB46_zps4jmguhgo.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/BFCE11CF-2BC7-4C2B-BAEA-2378C0CFDA60_zpsnnc0dnsi.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/BFCE11CF-2BC7-4C2B-BAEA-2378C0CFDA60_zpsnnc0dnsi.jpg.html)

[81dmc]

Looks good! I would like to see some images of that installed.

I will finish and install it tomorrow. I do not have the glovebox done yet; it needs some epoxy and sandpaper.

[Morpheus]

Hello All. Have been out of touch due to some family related events in the past few months. Things have settled to a new norm now, enough that I can focus a bit more on my car hobbies and topics. So with that, this weekend:

a) Finished driver side felt removal, replaced with a "window sweep" (http://www.topsdown.com/product.php?productid=1147).
The idea came from this site (search: felt removal), works great, cost as of this writing was $25 for both doors, but cheapest shipping was $14. The vendor is in Florida so mine were actually delivered the next day(!).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39748&d=1455493316

b) Resolved a cold start issue. The last time I turned the ignition off after a drive, instead of the engine dying it sort of accelerated a tad, maybe a half second on its own - so on a follow up start up it would just crank and not turn. I swapped the CSV and WUR, and it started right up. After that swap, with connectors back on the proper configuration, it all started fine again. So either a loose or dirty connection somewhere or a TTS that may be going. (Thanks Dave/Bitsyncmaster for diagnostic tips)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39747&d=1455493315
Hmm, not really visible here, but that engine bay and the panels need some detailing work - probably get to that in the coming weeks.

c) Topped off air on tires and ...went for the first drive of the year.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39749&d=1455493316
Felt great to be in the D again (..got a thumbs up even before I left the neighborhood!)

Great to see you on the boards again, Ozzie! I have to thank you for all the info on your blog; one of my next projects is shift bushings and LED conversion. :)

[DMC-81]

Today, I had a four wheel alignment done, following my recent suspension work, plus I had the windows tinted (a must in Florida in my opinion). I chose 15% door, and 80% windshield in ceramic.

Alignment and door windows before tinting:
39768

Windshield before tinting:
39769

All windows after tinting:
39770

[88KPH]

b) Resolved a cold start issue. The last time I turned the ignition off after a drive, instead of the engine dying it sort of accelerated a tad, maybe a half second on its own - so on a follow up start up it would just crank and not turn. I swapped the CSV and WUR, and it started right up. After that swap, with connectors back on the proper configuration, it all started fine again. So either a loose or dirty connection somewhere or a TTS that may be going.


Can someone explain these connectors? Pics would be a huge benefit. Cheers.

[mr_maxime]

Painted the other side vent, and the air intake vents.

[papanoel]

Today, I had a four wheel alignment done, following my recent suspension work, plus I had the windows tinted (a must in Florida in my opinion). I chose 15% door, and 80% windshield in ceramic.

Alignment and door windows before tinting:
39768

Windshield before tinting:
39769

All windows after tinting:
39770

Looks like Your door light stays on on when the doors are closed FYI.

[Patrick C]

Looks like Your door light stays on on when the doors are closed FYI.

Because the panels are off the door and the switch can't be depressed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Can someone explain these connectors? Pics would be a huge benefit. Cheers.

It's been called the "connector swap" as a way to get the engine started. You really don't swap the connectors but pull the CSV (cold start valve) connector off. Then you pull the WUR (warmup regulator) connector off and plug the WUR connector onto the CSV. Then start the car and as quickly as you can, pull that connector off the CSV and restore the connectors to normal positions.

[DMC-81]

Because the panels are off the door and the switch can't be depressed.

Correct. I'm still working on the doors, and figured it would be good to have the tinting done at the same time.

[88KPH]

WUR..... what does that stand for? Where is it?

[Michael]

WUR..... what does that stand for? Where is it?

Warm Up Regulator/Control Pressure Regulator

Rear of Left valve cover (or right depending on how you view the engine orientation.)

[Farrar]

The danger is you could drive over a bump or do something that would engage a front lock.

I once hit a bump and the front door latch let go of the striker pin... :ohcrap:

[81dmc]

Found my problem with the MAX AC mode. The switch seal was filled with too much grease, and a vacuum leak was present from the plastic line that routes to the hot water valve.

Now, is it possible to replace this plastic line with a standard rubber vacuum hose?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Found my problem with the MAX AC mode. The switch seal was filled with too much grease, and a vacuum leak was present from the plastic line that routes to the hot water valve.

Now, is it possible to replace this plastic line with a standard rubber vacuum hose?

I replaced the hard line that went from the drivers rear compartment to the water valve with silicone hose. I don't think you would have any problems replacing all of the hard lines with hose as long as they don't get crushed.

[81dmc]

Modified main harness under the console. I removed the old radio power wire and now unused grounds, and I cleaned the connectors up. I also integrated Dave's AC Illumination Panel harness into the main harness and removed the original backlight bundle (second pic).

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/CB9E5963-AFBB-44F5-A5CE-A5DE8E7FF1D1_zps4lrkypty.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/CB9E5963-AFBB-44F5-A5CE-A5DE8E7FF1D1_zps4lrkypty.jpg.html)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/DA500CE6-EB4E-41A2-B658-BE8CCC5E0446_zpsfsmiyycv.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/DA500CE6-EB4E-41A2-B658-BE8CCC5E0446_zpsfsmiyycv.jpg.html)

[DMC-81]

Well, my other rides needed attention today, but I managed to take the D out for a short drive as it was a beautiful evening.

39931

My grocery getter needed tires, so I selected Ohtsu FP8000 tires. I have never heard of them before, but apparently Ohstu is the parent company for Falken, the tires I have on my D. The price was outstanding, and the reviews were good. They were even Z rated. I found the initial quality was very good. We'll see how they hold up to daily use. I see that Ohtsu has the 225/60r15 and the 195/60r14 sizes in the FP7000 tire for the D, but they look exactly like the Falken Ziex.

39933 39932

Also, here's a good reason to feel good about the power output of the D. After only 23,000 miles, my Camaro needed rear tires. Apparently, I had too much fun...:facepalm:

39934

[Morpheus]

Yesterday spent a great afternoon with Robert G at the Sarasota Exotic Car Fest and we both ended up winning awards!

399473994839949

[iflights]

Yesterday spent a great afternoon with Robert G at the Sarasota Exotic Car Fest and we both ended up winning awards!

399473994839949
Congratulations guys!

[Peripatetic]

Yesterday I tried to get Christopher Lloyd to sign my car, but the staff wouldn't let me. Phooey.

Technically I didn't do anything to my car and it wasn't even today so...

[kbrown84]

Well, my other rides needed attention today, but I managed to take the D out for a short drive as it was a beautiful evening.

39931

My grocery getter needed tires, so I selected Ohtsu FP8000 tires. I have never heard of them before, but apparently Ohstu is the parent company for Falken, the tires I have on my D. The price was outstanding, and the reviews were good. They were even Z rated. I found the initial quality was very good. We'll see how they hold up to daily use. I see that Ohtsu has the 225/60r15 and the 195/60r14 sizes in the FP7000 tire for the D, but they look exactly like the Falken Ziex.

39933 39932

Also, here's a good reason to feel good about the power output of the D. After only 23,000 miles, my Camaro needed rear tires. Apparently, I had too much fun...:facepalm:

39934

I run the Ohtsu FP0612's on my DeLorean...great tire for the money...installed with road hazard warranty was $400.45! Not bad for a 45k tire!

[DMC-81]

I run the Ohtsu FP0612's on my DeLorean...great tire for the money...installed with road hazard warranty was $400.45! Not bad for a 45k tire!

Cool! After driving the first day, the Ohtsu tires were smooth and stable. It's also interesting to note that 2 separate installers of my D's Falkens and these Ohtsu's commented how little weight they required to balance. The Toyo Proxes tires that these replaced had much more.


Yesterday spent a great afternoon with Robert G at the Sarasota Exotic Car Fest and we both ended up winning awards!

Yes, congrats!! :thumbup:

[kbrown84]

I got my intake components finished up today...
A lot more work to do, but a lot has been done. For those that want to follow along, more pictures of the restoration can be found here (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10156175918410176.1073741830.713070175&type=1&l=e2f07825fb)!
4004040041

[FABombjoy]

Had some freakishly warm weather over the weekend and finally had a chance to get some data and dial in boost.

Played around with wastegate springs and accidentally hit 7.5psi with unoptimal fueling. Whoops! Caught it quick, pulled a plug and no signs of damage.
40066
The cold warm-up cycle is in data for this map which gives some weird cells on the left.

Swapped to a lighter spring, messed with the MBC and all is better. Still a little leaner than I'd like to see but if I adjust for the current cold air I may flood it in the summer.
40065
This map shows about 6PSI boost and with MBC adjustment boost starts just after 2000 RPM. Ideally I think I want to see high 11 AFRs under full boost. I think I still have room to increase low-end response as well.

The odd part-throttle lean points seem to be an artifact of the way K-Jet responds to throttle closing with a draw-through turbo.

[Rich_NYS]

I continued working on restoring the seats. The passenger side seat is a bit rough; I'm fixing cracks and a few small splits in the seat bottom. I did a quick coat of Leatherique leather dye on the leather & vinyl parts of the seat bottom, so far it's looking really nice.

A few years ago, I used SEM Accura Grey on the interior of my first DeLorean, but I think the Leatherique dye might give a better result and also better to work with. I'm considering using it for the rest of my interior parts. I'll post before/after pics of the seats when complete.

[OZ DMC]

You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

I managed to get back to this little problem in the last few days and I am pleased to say - success!

I managed to get the bottom drivers side door panel off (no easy job with the door locked shut) to find the pushrod to the rear latch mechanism had come off or was broken.

I made up a hook from a wire coat hanger and managed to pull the latch forward at the same time as lifting the door open catch and up she went - you ripper!!!

The latch mechanism appears in good shape but I need to secure the pushrod more effectively as I notice the passengers side looks as if it could drop out easily as well.

While the covers are off I will fix the window operation in both doors and replace the felt and the plastic protective sheet covers.

Any tips or advice on these jobs will be gratefully accepted.

A very big thanks to all those who responded to my original post on the locked door problem, very much appreciated.

4007440075



OZ DMC

[81dmc]

I managed to get back to this little problem in the last few days and I am pleased to say - success!

I managed to get the bottom drivers side door panel off (no easy job with the door locked shut) to find the pushrod to the rear latch mechanism had come off or was broken.

I made up a hook from a wire coat hanger and managed to pull the latch forward at the same time as lifting the door open catch and up she went - you ripper!!!

The latch mechanism appears in good shape but I need to secure the pushrod more effectively as I notice the passengers side looks as if it could drop out easily as well.

While the covers are off I will fix the window operation in both doors and replace the felt and the plastic protective sheet covers.

Any tips or advice on these jobs will be gratefully accepted.

A very big thanks to all those who responded to my original post on the locked door problem, very much appreciated.

4007440075



OZ DMC

You need to twist the rods so they lock, and by the second picture, you need to twist it counter clockwise.

[OZ DMC]

You need to twist the rods so they lock, and by the second picture, you need to twist it counter clockwise.

Thought that might be the case. Thanks 81DMC.

[SS Spoiler]

In the process of pulling motor for a DPI long block
with cam upgrade.

[mr_maxime]

Replaced the cheapo ebay headlight bulbs since one burnt out. Noticed the other one had ballooned up so I bought some cheap sylvanias while I prepare for my HID swap.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_20160226_114706_edit_1456508850280_zps8ppcsusn .jpg

[81dmc]

I received my two sets of Vredesteins today! Don't think I'll need another set of tires for awhile...
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/1847ECB4-7DFF-4896-B607-48D3E86566D7_zpsozcvfzrp.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/1847ECB4-7DFF-4896-B607-48D3E86566D7_zpsozcvfzrp.jpg.html)


I got my like-new China bombs in the For Sale section.

[mr_maxime]

Drove it to Atlanta and I got to say even the cheap Sylvanias are way better.

[sdg3205]

Ran it with open headers. Holy crap it was loud. So loud I felt bad doing it in my townhouse complex before 5 pm.

Loud... but badass.

[Chris 16409]

I received my two sets of Vredesteins today! Don't think I'll need another set of tires for awhile....

Where are the SportTrac 5's made?

[mr_maxime]

Got the bixenon hids installed today. I also stripped the battery bolt. I still have to run the wire under the console but that's for another day.

[81dmc]

Where are the SportTrac 5's made?

The Netherlands

[penciltester]

Last night really but......Checked the TABS, cleaned up the battery ground connection and replaced leaking trans axle seals*shudder*. That was a pain.

[88KPH]

Failed its mot. (Road worthy test)
Super rich emissions. 8.5%
Hand/parking brake not strong enough on passenger side.
Easy adjustment?

[Tillsy]

Hand/parking brake not strong enough on passenger side.
Easy adjustment?

Easy yes, but pain in the butt - the hand brake pads don't bite flush to the disc so you will never get a great grip...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the bixenon hids installed today. I also stripped the battery bolt. I still have to run the wire under the console but that's for another day.

What I do with my battery is, install longer bolts finger tight and have a nut installed on the bolt to clamp the cable on the battery. That way all the threads in the battery are used before any force is pulling on therm

[mr_maxime]

I bought replacement bolts at advance auto parts and they happened to be longer which helps with the added thickness of the ring terminal. I might change it to one of these (http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/battery-doctor-stud-bolt/25419/?_requestid=5735119).

[Trstno1]

Maybe not today, but I did complete this project recently:

I cleaned out the fuel tank and replaced the pump with a new DMCH combo unit and changed the fuel filter. Everything works like a champ. No more worries as to whether or not my fuel tank is clean.:thumbup:

[Trstno1]

Another project I completed recently:

I restored the trunk area. SEM trim black is some really good stuff!

[Trstno1]

Another winter project that was recently completed was the journey to my VOD. It was really quite easy with the instructions from this forum. I found myself to be extremely lucky since I didn't break anything and the VOD was relatively clean. It was dry, and I found only sand and a couple pieces of random wood in it. I cleaned everything up and started replacing the following parts:

Coil
cap
rotor
spark plug wires
Vacuum lines
ISM (mine was seized)
All fuel lines to SS
The 3mm allen screw in the air mixture unit (the PO drilled strait into the previous adjusting screw making it impossible to adjust the CO)
All new gaskets - intake and AMU
Professionally cleaned injectors w/ new boots (though I think I still have a bad one) (I have a K jet fuel pressure gauge and a couple of new injectors on the way to me now for testing purposes)


I am very happy with the results! I feel like I've almost conquered the beast. I am ecstatic that my idle is finally at 775 RPM for the first time since I've owned the car, and the Lambda system is actually working too.

Right now the engine is running pretty good but it still has a little lumpiness to it like it may have a bad injector or a fuel pressure issue. I'm in the middle of trouble shooting that now.

Though I must admit.....things are looking up. :cheers:

[Jonathan]

Another winter project that was recently completed was the journey to my VOD.

...

I am very happy with the results! I feel like I've almost conquered the beast. I am ecstatic that my idle is finally at 775 RPM for the first time since I've owned the car, and the Lambda system is actually working too.

...

Though I must admit.....things are looking up. :cheers:

Wow, no kidding. I'd be happy with how that looks to have turned out too. You did a really nice job with cleaning up the air/fuel mixture unit. Looks good! Congrats!

[Trstno1]

Wow, no kidding. I'd be happy with how that looks to have turned out too. You did a really nice job with cleaning up the air/fuel mixture unit. Looks good! Congrats!

Thanks!!

[81dmc]

Right now the engine is running pretty good but it still has a little lumpiness to it like it may have a bad injector or a fuel pressure issue. I'm in the middle of trouble shooting that now.


Have you checked your mixture with a dwell meter? With new seals, sometimes it will need to be retuned for the best results.

[Rich_NYS]

Another project I completed recently:

I restored the trunk area. SEM trim black is some really good stuff!


Another winter project that was recently completed was the journey to my VOD.

~

I am very happy with the results! I feel like I've almost conquered the beast. I am ecstatic that my idle is finally at 775 RPM for the first time since I've owned the car, and the Lambda system is actually working too.

~


Nice...!

I'm thinking of repainting my trunk area since I have so much of it exposed, but I don't want to add anything more to the lengthy list I currently have.

Do you think it could easily be done without removing the hood? Also, did you replace the screws for the access panels in the trunk?

Looking good :thumbup:

[Trstno1]

Have you checked your mixture with a dwell meter? With new seals, sometimes it will need to be retuned for the best results.

The dwell didn't seem that far off when I tested it after the rebuild, But I should test it again.

Today I think I'll do a fuel primary, control , and rest pressure test. I'll hook the dwell up too!

[Trstno1]

Nice...!

I'm thinking of repainting my trunk area since I have so much of it exposed, but I don't want to add anything more to the lengthy list I currently have.

Do you think it could easily be done without removing the hood? Also, did you replace the screws for the access panels in the trunk?

Looking good :thumbup:

Hey thanks!

I did replace all the screws for the access panels in addition to a couple of rivnuts. I have the new warning stickers on the way now in Addition to new trunk carpet from DMCH to really set things off. :rock_on:

I suppose you could do it without removing the hood but in my opinion it would be much harder and difficult to get the paint in the area of the hood hindges. Taking the hood off is really quite easy. Just have a partner give you a hand so that no damage occurs. I took the LFF side...... :hihi2:

[SS Spoiler]

Engine is out and mounted on the stand. Managed to remove the
BAE turbo without breaking any bolts. A waiting a DPI rebuilt with
cam upgrade. My turbo is up for sale. Polished tubes, 152,000 miles
includes original instructions. 500 dollars. [mods sorry this isn't in
the for sale post, don't know how to start a post]

[Alan]

Pulled the battery out of storage, put it in, started 1121 up, and filled it up with fresh gas. Went for a drive.

So, short answer, started the driving season. [emoji3]

[Patrick C]

Replaced my grinding Legacy LN46 power antenna with a new Metra 44-PW22 unit from Amazon. Required a little tweaking but it operates smoothly and much more quietly than the grinding Legacy unit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI3_4Cs368s&feature=youtu.be

[Stainless]

Replaced my grinding Legacy LN46 power antenna with a new Metra 44-PW22 unit from Amazon. Required a little tweaking but it operates smoothly and much more quietly than the grinding Legacy unit.

I need to do the same thing as my LN46 antenna sucks. What tweaking did you need to do to it?

[novadmc]

replaced the warped right side headlight finisher and swapped out my 1 year old amazon strong lift door pistons for a set from PJ Grady.

the amazon ones would only open the doors about 1/3 to 1/2 the way even in warm weather and always felt stiff.
Rob's are like night and day compared to those amazon ones. no more head bonking or having to assist the door most of the way.

[Trstno1]

Replaced my grinding Legacy LN46 power antenna with a new Metra 44-PW22 unit from Amazon. Required a little tweaking but it operates smoothly and much more quietly than the grinding Legacy unit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI3_4Cs368s&feature=youtu.be

Nice! I've had that power antenna for awhile and it works great!!

[Jonathan]

Pulled the battery out of storage, put it in, started 1121 up, and filled it up with fresh gas. Went for a drive.

So, short answer, started the driving season.

Yes!!!!

I've been getting more and more bored of this cough/cold nonsense I've had for a week or so now. And since it won't seem to respond to "get lots of rest and drink lots of fluids," I instead paid a little visit to Dr. DeLorean... to get a prescription for some Vitamin-DMC!!

Giddyup! March 9th and the season begins!!

40720

[Patrick C]

I need to do the same thing as my LN46 antenna sucks. What tweaking did you need to do to it?

I had to saw off the plastic nipple for the drain tube on the new antenna. There is still adequate room between the stock antenna bracket and the new antenna for the unit to drain though once you remove that nipple.

[Stainless]

I had to saw off the plastic nipple for the drain tube on the new antenna. There is still adequate room between the stock antenna bracket and the new antenna for the unit to drain though once you remove that nipple.

That makes sense. I was going to buy this the other day, but the many negative reviews on Amazon now have me hesitating. It sounds like you've had a good experience so far, however. Seeing as how I'm not aware of better options for a similar price, I'm probably going to go with this unit too. Thanks!

[Patrick C]

That makes sense. I was going to buy this the other day, but the many negative reviews on Amazon now have me hesitating. It sounds like you've had a good experience so far, however. Seeing as how I'm not aware of better options for a similar price, I'm probably going to go with this unit too. Thanks!

I bought an open box unit on Amazon for $30 shipped and figured it was worth experimenting with. So far so good, but we will see how it holds up with daily use this summer. The Legacy LN46 units that used to be recommended in the DeLorean community were trash and I went through 2 of them in the course of five years.

I do notice that this Metra antenna operates much more slowly (in terms of speed to extend and retract) than the Legacy LN46 did, but it is also much quieter.

[Stainless]

I bought an open box unit on Amazon for $30 shipped and figured it was worth experimenting with. So far so good, but we will see how it holds up with daily use this summer. The Legacy LN46 units that used to be recommended in the DeLorean community were trash and I went through 2 of them in the course of five years.

I do notice that this Metra antenna operates much more slowly (in terms of speed to extend and retract) than the Legacy LN46 did, but it is also much quieter.

I had a similar experience with the Legacy LN46 unit being crap. Mine only retracts if I help push it down during the few seconds it attempts to go down on its own. It's basically a two-man job, which blows. I don't mind this Metra unit being slower, as long as it works. I'm going to give it a shot.

[Morpheus]

That makes sense. I was going to buy this the other day, but the many negative reviews on Amazon now have me hesitating. It sounds like you've had a good experience so far, however. Seeing as how I'm not aware of better options for a similar price, I'm probably going to go with this unit too. Thanks!

Do yourself a favor and find the one with the black stainless mast. Otherwise, you will find as I did that it is impossible to keep the chrome or stainless mast clean. Trust me.

[Stainless]

Do yourself a favor and find the one with the black stainless mast. Otherwise, you will find as I did that it is impossible to keep the chrome or stainless mast clean. Trust me.

Glad I waited another day to buy this. I went with a new black mast for $44 on ebay. For future reference, the black one is the Metra 44-PW22B.

[81dmc]

Received my NEW(er) Goodyear spare! Same size and brand as the 30 year old original. It comes from a 2007-2011 Nissan Versa.

[dustybarn]

Drove it for the first time since Christmas Day! I took advantage of the warm weather and took the Mrs. to dinner. The D ran like a top.

[Stainless]

Finally fixed an issue I've been dealing with intermittently since I bought it 5 years ago. The front latch of the driver's side door would sometimes not unlatch when trying to open the door. There really was not rhyme or reason to when it would and would not open. Up until I put it away for winter, I could always get it open by pressing the lock switch further into the "unlock" position while pulling on the handle. That trick failed before winter and I put it away with a stuck door.

I got the upper and lower panel off with the door shut (total PITA, by the way). It turns out, the locking mechanism needed to be adjusted slightly. I tested it dozens of times after adjusting it and it opens every time. I'm glad it was so simple of a fix. The worst part of the repair was that my previously working mirror switch came apart and I can't get it put together so that it works. I tried for well over an hour, but the mini ball bearings just get pushed out of their position when I try to put the two pieces together. I may have to start a thread about that.

I also had to replace several fir trees that broke off when taking the upper and lower panels apart. My door easily opened all the way with no help when the internal panels were removed. With the added weight of the panels, it needs a lot of help to open all the way, but it does stay open. It leads me to believe that new door struts would fix this. Thoughts?

I also received my new Metra 44-PW22B automatic radio antenna and started to install it before I had to go out with my wife last night. I got to the point that I verified that it worked and will put it into position and clean everything up in the coming days. That's another issue I've been dealing with during my entire 5 years of ownership. It hasn't been a priority until recently.

[Morpheus]

Spent the evening at the Jacksonville Symphony showcasing my car for their showing of BTTF. They played the score live during the film, which was just plain awesome. Even got to meet Alan Silvestri, who was there to introduce the film.
4078740788

[DMCMW Dave]

Spent the evening at the Jacksonville Symphony showcasing my car for their showing of BTTF. ]

The Chicago Symphony Orchestra did this a week or two ago. One of their horn players is actually a DeLorean owner so they were able to use his car.

[Alan]

I replaced a LockZilla keyless entry module with a DEI 712t. The LockZilla had been wired strangely. The lock/unlock connector on the module was missing and the lock/unlock functionality was controlled by the 2 aux channels. One fob was missing.

I now have 2 fobs and 2 additional channels.

I followed DrJeff's write up called, "Fitting a $10 Remote Key Control to the Delorean." It worked great.

[Lenny]

Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!

It started on the second turn of the key.

[mr_maxime]

Did a quick wash on my car but without proper tools I still got water spots everywhere. The miserable condition of the fascias has been keeping from me doing the proper wash and wax she deserves.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160315_120527_zpst4ksepij.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160315_120527_zpst4ksepij.jpg.html)

[Alan]

Today, I was beaten by mine.

I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rv-miniature-wedge-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-rvb/2479/#/attributes/13)(one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

[Ashyukun]

Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;

That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.

Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Today, I was beaten by mine.

I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rv-miniature-wedge-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-rvb/2479/#/attributes/13)(one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

You need to cut the LED wires so only one side of each leg is connected. The wire wrapping around the bottom is causing your short circuit.

[content22207_2]

Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;

That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.

Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.

Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.

The Grand Canyon (failed PO weld repair):

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/430572_346599832051940_2010167118_n.jpg?oh=1c0a259 07a0e5e3390e9088b94e1d09e&oe=574C818D

C Channels:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/375011_267060150005909_2047237322_n.jpg?oh=c67d3fc b099f25d4f36ed03204c026ec&oe=5795F58C
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/534666_465362656842323_1150330556_n.jpg?oh=e327c21 030ae697760bd9907a6a16104&oe=5791E281
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/68083_465362783508977_774250593_n.jpg?oh=4b97a6b4e 60483e7eeff8040d53c3810&oe=5757BC7D
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/398366_465362910175631_1624759916_n.jpg?oh=e414487 1fa4276807dd0a106e54db74e&oe=579091AD

Not everyone agrees with my C channels, but they've served me well since 2009.

Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.

Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Alan]

You need to cut the LED wires so only one side of each leg is connected. The wire wrapping around the bottom is causing your short circuit.

Thank you. I figured it was something easy.

[content22207_2]

they've served me well since 2009.

Correction: 2008 (autumn).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Chris4099]

Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.

You do not need to remove the body from the frame to replace the extension. However, the DMC shops do use a jig to hold the new one in perfect alignment during welding as you don't want to be on crooked and screw up your front alignment. Considering it's a critical safety component, it's just as well that you need to replace it considering the original was badly rusted to fail like that.

[Patrick C]

Correction: 2008 (autumn).

Bill Robertson
#5939

I can't say I agree with all of Bill's modifications, but I do like the idea of the LONG coolant hose and eliminating all of the pipe and hose clamp connections!

[Alan]

Today, I was beaten by mine.

I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rv-miniature-wedge-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-rvb/2479/#/attributes/13)(one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

...and with Dave's, Bitsyncmaster's, help, I ultimately came out on top.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160316/74171aa7f6032615281e094814fa612b.jpg

[content22207_2]

I can't say I agree with all of Bill's modifications, but I do like the idea of the LONG coolant hose and eliminating all of the pipe and hose clamp connections!

That hose only goes as far as the pipe under the gas tank. It replaces the useless factory radiator bleeder pipe. Radiator now bleeds *UPHILL* to a tee in the heater core return pipe:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/426228_346599882051935_71168096_n.jpg?oh=95dfc25f2 47217c8f1a8a36e42907492&oe=578CC616

Guaranteed not to trap air in the radiator, even from an empty system fill (automatically self bleeds the radiator).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

I also threw away pipes from the engine compartment to under the car:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/v/t1.0-9/529194_362672077111382_1788740083_n.jpg?oh=5eab28b 918e6008a61eb11c075de928f&oe=575088CD

And the short radiator pipe on the driver's side. Altogether I have 6 pipe sections:
- 2 in engine compartment (need those for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat)
- 4 under the car

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Patrick C]

That hose only goes as far as the pipe under the gas tank. It replaces the useless factory radiator bleeder pipe. Radiator now bleeds *UPHILL* to a tee in the heater core return pipe:

I'm talking about the big coolant hose that eliminated all of the aluminum piping.

[content22207_2]

I'm talking about the big coolant hose that eliminated all of the aluminum piping.

Not all the aluminum piping is gone -- I still need engine compartment pipes for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat, and there's no need to jetison piping under the car. Everything else has been replaced with hose.

Look closely and you'll see the hose clamp where under car piping begins (radiator bleeder looks downhill because the front of the car is jacked up):

40828

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Ryan King]

Torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!
40841

[Gregadeth]

torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!
40841lol nice!

[Mario]

I'm digging the Ash Ketchum hat. :)

[Chris 16409]

Torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!

Here's how it really happened.......

40842

[Ashyukun]

Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.
Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.

Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

The cracked extension is just the most critical of the rust problems- there's a lot of other rust issues on the frame both in the front end (that large panel behind the extension on the bottom? rusted through with a large hole in the middle of it) and on the rear (bottom of the engine cradle) that I can see easily, and probably more spots. The rust issues have been there since I got the car, I've just been keeping an eye on them and hoping they'd behave until I had my other projects done such that I could devote the time to fixing them. It *might* be possible to fix everything without pulling the body, but there are enough things that I both need and want to do that it just makes sense to not go half-assed and just patch the car enough to get it (safely) drivable again but to take the time to fix everything and hopefully not have to deal with major rust issues for another 30 years.

[Ashyukun]

You do not need to remove the body from the frame to replace the extension. However, the DMC shops do use a jig to hold the new one in perfect alignment during welding as you don't want to be on crooked and screw up your front alignment. Considering it's a critical safety component, it's just as well that you need to replace it considering the original was badly rusted to fail like that.

Yeah, I've not yet figured out exactly how I'm going to handle keeping everything aligned when I go to put the new one in. There's a decent chance I'll be needing to build some jigs anyway though with everything I'm going to have to fix. Pulling the body will also make the engine and transmission work easier, and if I'm going to try and have the whole frame treated to prevent rust down the line there's obviously no other way...

[content22207_2]

another 30 years.

I haven't really heard from you since DCS'10 -- other than frame rust issues, has the car been behaving itself? (You mention engine work in the other reply).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[mr_maxime]

My wipers had been blocking my view and I finally adjusted them today. They looked a bit stripped so they might have migrated up over the past year.

[Ashyukun]

I haven't really heard from you since DCS'10 -- other than frame rust issues, has the car been behaving itself? (You mention engine work in the other reply).

Bill Robertson
#5939

I was a DCS'12 as well, but haven't really been around or doing much with the car (besides driving it) since then. The car has behaved itself reasonably well- unfortunately with other projects I've really not done much on it other than very basic tune-up stuff (fuel filter, plugs, etc.) and a laundry list of things have accumulated that I either should or need to be doing on it that I've been putting off. With this frame issue it's pretty much MADE itself a higher priority so I'm pushing harder to get the other things done that need to be in order to get to it.

The engine (and its carb conversion) has behaved well enough- there was a problem a ways back where it was running WAY rich and causing problems that was eventually tracked down to the fuel pump putting out too much pressure, so adding in a fuel pressure regulator solved that problem. The plan (before the frame extension failed) was to rebuild the carb this spring as well as a more extensive look at the engine, but at the moment I'm much more seriously looking at doing an engine swap while I have the car completely apart. I have a $450 Park Avenue Ultra whose L67 supercharged Buick 3800 engine I'm almost finished with rebuilding (just got the call from the machine shop that the head work is done) should fit quite nicely and would be a considerable improvement in both power and efficiency (assuming I don't mod it too heavily to up the power even more).

[content22207_2]

I've been running a mechanical fuel pump for a year now with excellent results. I left the electric pump in the tank and ran its power feed through an on/off switch under the kneepad. If the car ever sits for a week or two I energize the electric pump briefly to refill the carb so I don't have to crank and crank and crank until fuel gets to the back of the car, but otherwise it's just a backup in case the mechanical pump diaphragm ever splits.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[novadmc]

changed the oil during my lunch hour.
Dumped out the Castrol gtx 20w50 even tho its only been 1000mi since I changed it last May (and sampled some to send to blackstone labs).
Filled it up with Shell Rotella T 15w40 per all the talk in the other oil thread.

[papanoel]

bumped a concrete pillar in my tight NYC garage.

http://i.imgur.com/vyIovQ5.png

[81dmc]

bumped a concrete pillar in my tight NYC garage.

http://i.imgur.com/vyIovQ5.png

Ouch

[Jonathan]

bumped a concrete pillar in my tight NYC garage.

http://i.imgur.com/vyIovQ5.png

If that was in Florida, you'd have scuffed white paint on your white bumper... just like every single other car in that state it seems, lol. I swear it's like a bit from some stand-up comedy routine about big cars and old drivers... just back up enough 'til you hit something, than start going the other direction.

Pardon the expression... but that looks like it'll buff right out.

[Tillsy]

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/398366_465362910175631_1624759916_n.jpg?oh=e414487 1fa4276807dd0a106e54db74e&oe=579091AD

Bill what's the reasoning for your horns facing sideways?

[Citizen]

Bill what's the reasoning for your horns facing sideways?

I don't mean to speak for Bill or anything, but usually when horns are low to the ground, they are turned away from the front, so they tend to catch less water, I believe.

Thomas

...

[Lou and "Boo"]

I was a DCS'12 as well, but haven't really been around or doing much with the car (besides driving it) since then. The car has behaved itself reasonably well- unfortunately with other projects I've really not done much on it other than very basic tune-up stuff (fuel filter, plugs, etc.) and a laundry list of things have accumulated that I either should or need to be doing on it that I've been putting off. With this frame issue it's pretty much MADE itself a higher priority so I'm pushing harder to get the other things done that need to be in order to get to it.

The engine (and its carb conversion) has behaved well enough- there was a problem a ways back where it was running WAY rich and causing problems that was eventually tracked down to the fuel pump putting out too much pressure, so adding in a fuel pressure regulator solved that problem. The plan (before the frame extension failed) was to rebuild the carb this spring as well as a more extensive look at the engine, but at the moment I'm much more seriously looking at doing an engine swap while I have the car completely apart. I have a $450 Park Avenue Ultra whose L67 supercharged Buick 3800 engine I'm almost finished with rebuilding (just got the call from the machine shop that the head work is done) should fit quite nicely and would be a considerable improvement in both power and efficiency (assuming I don't mod it too heavily to up the power even more).


That 3800 supercharged is what I put in my 1985 Fiero (my donor was a 96 bonneville) I didn't do any engine mods except for a smaller supercharger pulley. I've always dreamed of that engine in my Delorean. If you do the swap PLEASE document it here online.

[refugeefromcalif]

I'd been having clutch issues and Assumed that it was hydraulic because the clutch was OK when the car was cold and hard to shift when warm.
I took it a mechanic I trust and he got under the dash and discovered a pivot pin was worn halfway through!

40907

The pin on the left is factory, on the right the one I made to replace it. (The pin is out of stock). Being a machinist has it's perks at times. :)
I've never felt like such an Idiot to miss checking what should have been an obvious first place to look... :spank:

George

[81dmc]

Got my new tires mounted on my rims which were painted in Porsche Panamera Gray. Also received the new connectors for the roof box.

On the car, I reinstalled the front fascia.

[DMC5180]

Deutsch connectors. Excellent choice[emoji1303]


Dennis

[mr_maxime]

I finally untwisted the seat belt.

[81dmc]

Deutsch connectors. Excellent choice[emoji1303]


Dennis

Thought they were the best choice since they're used on my pickup truck's injector harness (Cummins).

[Chris 16409]

In preparation to install Toby's shock tower brace, I made sure I could remove the front body bolts. The passenger side came out relatively easily. The driver side bolt was pretty stuck. I was able create a gap so I could spray some penetrating fluid. After soaking for a bit, I was able to remove the driver side bolt okay. Both bolts were corroded. I assume the brace kit includes new body bolts. It's interesting the OEM bolts have a pointed tip, which I assume allow them to be screwed in easier.

[Lenny]

I picked my car up today from DMC FL. New Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders and complete flush of Clutch. the clutch now works like it is supposed to. For the last year I've had to pull the floor mats out and the clutch didn't engage until about 1/2 inch from the floor. They also did an Oil change, AC recharge, and they found an electrical problem. When the brakes were lightly applied, the brake lights would dim and the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. If you pushed the pedal further, everything restored to normal. I thought that was normal, but I guess not.

For the first time since I got the car I didn't have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling. I don't know what they did, they said nothing, I think it was the electrical problem. The car is running better that it ever has. I really enjoyed the drive home, I should check Instagram there were a bunch of photos and thumbs up on the way. I was driving on one of the six lane sections after coming out of a really slow/stop construction area, I was keeping up with traffic and about a mile later I looked at the speedometer and was doing 90. BRAKES, slowed to 70 and got passed by everyone else on the road.
40948

[DMC-81]

I picked my car up today from DMC FL.

Glad you got the car sorted Lenny! :thumbup:

[Ashyukun]

That 3800 supercharged is what I put in my 1985 Fiero (my donor was a 96 bonneville) I didn't do any engine mods except for a smaller supercharger pulley. I've always dreamed of that engine in my Delorean. If you do the swap PLEASE document it here online.

What did you do for engine control? Keep the stock ECM or go with a standalone? If you stuck with the stock ECM, did you need it reprogrammed to account for the smaller pulley? That's something I'm obviously going to have to deal with as well in putting the L67 into my DMC. Also, mating up the L67's A/C compressor with the DMC's A/C system is going to be interesting.

I've not yet decided just what performance upgrades I want to do on the L67. A smaller pulley is pretty much a given, but I'm unsure of whether I want to go much further and get into putting in a higher-performance cam and rockers, adding an air/water intercooler, bigger injectors, etc. or not.

I may not fully document the build here since I'm already doing it over on the GRM board- here's the link to that thread: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/full-blown-rebuildrestore-of-my-dmc-12-delorean/111506/page1/

[Trstno1]

Today I installed a LED 3rd brake light.

[jawn101]

Finished installing all 6 of my new Grady gas struts. What a huge difference they made!

Then I pulled out the passenger seat and carpet to pull apart and try to clear the A/C drain hose. Successfully found it and verified that it was clear. Drove around a while.

Still need to charge up the A/C and track down a little coolant drip. Every year when the seasons change I see a little wetness at the hose/pipe joints and this year seems to be no different.

[Farrar]

Today, #2613 got loaded onto a carrier. As you can see, we had to get creative with ramps, and we had to raise the front of the carrier a bit to keep from scraping the car's underside, but it worked out nicely. I inflated all of the tires to 35 PSI to make it easy to push.
41073
41074
41075

The car will be heading to North Carolina, where I will join it in a few weeks for an engine transplant and whatever other work is needed to get the car driven again. As of now, it's been almost two years since I was able to drive it.

I wonder if I will see the car on Instagram ...

[jawn101]

Today, #2613 got loaded onto a carrier. As you can see, we had to get creative with ramps, and we had to raise the front of the carrier a bit to keep from scraping the car's underside, but it worked out nicely. I inflated all of the tires to 35 PSI to make it easy to push.
41073
41074
41075

The car will be heading to North Carolina, where I will join it in a few weeks for an engine transplant and whatever other work is needed to get the car driven again. As of now, it's been almost two years since I was able to drive it.

I wonder if I will see the car on Instagram ...

Good luck, Farrar. I think there are a lot of newbies here who don't fully appreciate how much we all want to see this car running again :)

[Farrar]

Good luck, Farrar. I think there are a lot of newbies here who don't fully appreciate how much we all want to see this car running again :)

Thanks, Jon! It's nice to know it's more than just me and Bill rooting for Ye Olde Sparke to get back on the road again. ;)

In case anyone was getting nervous: I forgot to snap a pic after we put the ratchet-ties on the car. Fear not - it is secure! :)

[81dmc]

Today, #2613 got loaded onto a carrier. As you can see, we had to get creative with ramps, and we had to raise the front of the carrier a bit to keep from scraping the car's underside, but it worked out nicely. I inflated all of the tires to 35 PSI to make it easy to push.
41073
41074
41075

The car will be heading to North Carolina, where I will join it in a few weeks for an engine transplant and whatever other work is needed to get the car driven again. As of now, it's been almost two years since I was able to drive it.

I wonder if I will see the car on Instagram ...

Glad to see it coming together after so long!

Also, you better check Instagram everyday. People do crazy things when they see a DeLorean in the wild...

[81dmc]

Finished my Dakota Digital digital gear readout install. Details in the Custom DeLoreans/Mods section.


https://youtube.com/watch?v=qZBCn16iMo8

[Trstno1]

Finished my Dakota Digital digital gear readout install. Details in the Custom DeLoreans/Mods section.


https://youtube.com/watch?v=qZBCn16iMo8

I have a manual, but I must say that's pretty cool!

Good job!

[mburshtain]

I removed the undercoating from the fuel tank closing plate.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/6c27208a9e8b18e02aa76a831e569411.jpg
You can see some of the black undercoating that I removed during the process.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Domi]

Did almost the same thing on the frame this afternoon :biggrin:

[Citizen]

Ol' 3341 had been running a bit rough, so Saturday I thought I'd clean the plugs. Smoothed right out. And I could easily tell which plug was fouled (the rest looked pretty good, and one even looked like new, but I digress).

Anyway, while in there, I somehow broke the wire to the coolant sensor. Unfortunately it broke right there at the sensor itself, and I couldn't reach in very easily to get the old wire connector off the sensor post. So the whole thing had to come out. Wow what a job that turned out to be! Could they have put the sensor in a more inconvenient place? I don't think so! I was not happy with the whoever engineered THAT idea. Whatever, I spent my Easter Sunday (after services) draining the coolant, getting to the sensor and getting it out, fixing the contact, and putting it all back together again. Bummer... but hey, that's DeLorean ownership, I guess.

Thomas

...

[Chris 16409]

I installed a pair of Tom N (DeLoreana.com in Poland) Extneded view Convex Skde-View Mirrors. You can notice the black line running down the mirror. These should help clear up any blind spots.

41146

[Farrar]

Prisoner transfer complete.
41168

[SKnight]

Today I picked up my car from DMCNW, after getting a Stage I kit installed. I absolutely love the new exhaust sound!

They also installed some brand new stainless throttle cover plates, custom engraved with " Stage I" and the "DMC" logo. They really look great on the engine, almost as if they were factory designed. Check out the pictures.

411714117241173

[sdg3205]

Today I picked up my car from DMCNW, after getting a Stage I kit installed. I absolutely love the new exhaust sound!

They also installed some brand new stainless throttle cover plates, custom engraved with " Stage I" and the "DMC" logo. They really look great on the engine, almost as if they were factory designed. Check out the pictures.

411714117241173

That looks really sharp!

I wonder if Toby would do a custom plate for those without a Stage 1 or 2? I'd love a plate that said "PRV6" or something like that.

[SKnight]

That looks really sharp!

I wonder if Toby would do a custom plate for those without a Stage 1 or 2? I'd love a plate that said "PRV6" or something like that.

The plates come blank, so you definitely can get one without Stage I or II. I think it'd be worth checking with Toby to see if he could make a stencil that said PRV or something. Might have to bring that up at the tech session.

[Domi]

Those cover plates looks really nice :thumbup:

[DMC-81]

I am getting ready to change the fuel filter, and while I have that line open, I will replace the original fuel feed line (102365). I got a Stainless Steel braided version from DeLorean Club-UK, and it comes with bare SS braids. My DMC S/S injector hoses have a black cover on them, so I decided to get a black heat shrink tube for this hose to match.

41189

The heat shrink tube is 3/4" semi rigid plastic with integrated glue. It shrinks to about half it's diameter, which is 3/8, just the size of the fuel line.
41190

Heat shrink in process. I used a heat gun, with a constant wave motion...being careful not to leave it on one area too long.
41191

Heat shrink tube all installed. Now it matches the injector hoses perfectly.
41192

I also got the S/S return line, and I'll do the same treatment to it.

[Alan]

Gave a command performance. We were at friends' house about a mile from where we live. We'd driven Colleen's Optima. The guys and I were out in a new crew cab pickup admiring it. Colleen came out to tell me to go get 1121. Someone wanted to see "the DeLorean." It was one of the other wives. She came back to our place while I swapped cars (she wanted the ride). Once we were back, the guys were interested.

I'm not 100% sold on a DeLorean only being a guy magnet.

[Silverbullet]

What?.....

[Morpheus]

I am getting ready to change the fuel filter, and while I have that line open, I will replace the original fuel feed line (102365). I got a Stainless Steel braided version from DeLorean Club-UK, and it comes with bare SS braids. My DMC S/S injector hoses have a black cover on them, so I decided to get a black heat shrink tube for this hose to match.

41189

The heat shrink tube is 3/4" semi rigid plastic with integrated glue. It shrinks to about half it's diameter, which is 3/8, just the size of the fuel line.
41190

Heat shrink in process. I used a heat gun, with a constant wave motion...being careful not to leave it on one area too long.
41191

Heat shrink tube all installed. Now it matches the injector hoses perfectly.
41192

I also got the S/S return line, and I'll do the same treatment to it.

That looks great, Dana! I will have to file this away for future reference.

[Rich_NYS]

I am getting ready to change the fuel filter, and while I have that line open, I will replace the original fuel feed line (102365). I got a Stainless Steel braided version from DeLorean Club-UK, and it comes with bare SS braids. My DMC S/S injector hoses have a black cover on them, so I decided to get a black heat shrink tube for this hose to match.


I also got the S/S return line, and I'll do the same treatment to it.

Great idea...looks good!

[Rich_NYS]

I replaced my broken passenger side door handle with a metal one.

[81dmc]

I unwrapped most of the main engine harness, removed all connectors from bulkhead, and removed the support plate for them as well.

I'm going to replace all bulkhead connectors with deutsch connectors and run part of the main engine harness to the compressor, oil sender, starter, etc. along the passenger pontoon.

[cpear760]

Last week I cranked the D over and realized I didn't have the normal resistance on the clutch pedal and couldn't find a gear while the engine was running.

So today I thought I could just top off the reservoir and get my clutch back.

Well, not only did I overfill the reservoir and make a nice puddle under the car, I still haven't resolved my original issue.

[DMC5180]

Last week I cranked the D over and realized I didn't have the normal resistance on the clutch pedal and couldn't find a gear while the engine was running.

So today I thought I could just top off the reservoir and get my clutch back.

Well, not only did I overfill the reservoir and make a nice puddle under the car, I still haven't resolved my original issue.

If you don't have any functional hydraulics. Just adding Fluid won't work without bleeding the system. But since the reservoir was empty, you have a leak either at the master or the slave cylinder. Your best option is to replace both components especially if they are the 35 year old originals.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I unwrapped most of the main engine harness, removed all connectors from bulkhead, and removed the support plate for them as well.

I'm going to replace all bulkhead connectors with deutsch connectors and run part of the main engine harness to the compressor, oil sender, starter, etc. along the passenger pontoon.

I unwrapped my harness long ago and did the same running wires on the passenger pontoon. I was contemplating just removing the bulkhead connectors and butt spicing the wires but my stock connectors seem to be holding up.

[Jonathan]

I unwrapped most of the main engine harness, removed all connectors from bulkhead, and removed the support plate for them as well.

I'm going to replace all bulkhead connectors with deutsch connectors and run part of the main engine harness to the compressor, oil sender, starter, etc. along the passenger pontoon.

Do you have any pictures of this? I'd like to see what it looks like behind there if you do.

[bfloyd]

Had a little time over the weekend to tinker under the car and replace the Lambda Probe (O2 / Oxygen Sensor). I had been putting it off because I've read horror stories on here about stripping threads out of the exhaust manifolds and such, and I really didn't want to deal with that. Surprisingly enough, one shot of PB Blaster and a good smack with the right sized wrench and it came out with no problems at all. Put the new one in, and let the car run for about 30 minutes. Hoping it would make an improvement on my high idle issue and engine roughness, but it didn't. It's done though and I didn't break anything.

[81dmc]

Do you have any pictures of this? I'd like to see what it looks like behind there if you do.

Here you go...

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/0C13183C-E2D1-4195-9545-8450DD252B1C_zpsecgdi5nm.jpg

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/B7E67A35-A062-469D-A95E-96CE4B72BA73_zpsrn48sw4d.jpg

[durech]

Today I picked up my car from DMCNW, after getting a Stage I kit installed. I absolutely love the new exhaust sound!

They also installed some brand new stainless throttle cover plates, custom engraved with " Stage I" and the "DMC" logo. They really look great on the engine, almost as if they were factory designed. Check out the pictures.

411714117241173

I had a Stage 1 done at DMCH about a year ago and they did not add these plates. I wonder if this is a new thing for all new Stage 1 conversions or of it is only something DMCNW does. If it is something that only DMCNW does, then Houston needs to get there sh*t together and standardize these conversion at all locations. I would really like to have them on my car. I feel somehow 'cheated' :bigcry:

[novadmc]

my radio (kenwood unit installed by previous owner) died on me.

swapped out my Kenwood unit from my daily driver into the DeLorean and ordered a newer version of this swapped unit for my daily.
yay for the Kenwood harness wiring being the same (for the wires i need/want to use), even after almost a decade of new models!

41351 41352

[iflights]

my radio (kenwood unit installed by previous owner) died on me.

swapped out my Kenwood unit from my daily driver into the DeLorean and ordered a newer version of this swapped unit for my daily.
yay for the Kenwood harness wiring being the same (for the wires i need/want to use), even after almost a decade of new models!

41351 41352

Nice looking deck. Which Kenwood model is that?

[SKnight]

I had a Stage 1 done at DMCH about a year ago and they did not add these plates. I wonder if this is a new thing for all new Stage 1 conversions or of it is only something DMCNW does. If it is something that only DMCNW does, then Houston needs to get there sh*t together and standardize these conversion at all locations. I would really like to have them on my car. I feel somehow 'cheated' :bigcry:

DMCNW just started doing these plates. I think I was 2nd or 3rd car to get them, they are not part of the Stage I installation. You can contact them if you're interested, they sell the plates blank or engraved with Stage I or II and/or the DMC logo. The engraving costs slightly more.

[DMC5738KC]

New to the forum. I've been working on 5738 for the last 6 months and so far have done the VOD, cleaned and refreshed the intake, rebuilt the fuel system, cleaned out gas tank, new fuel accumulator, brake calipers rebuilt and master cylinder replaced, rebuilt steering rack and replaced firewall bushing, new tires, new vac lines, and now to the automatic transmission - just drained the transmission fluid and pulled the shift governor and sent it to DMC Texas for the guts to be replaced with modern electronics. Need to do the headliner and refinish the gas tank plate under the car due to leaking brake fluid turning the epoxy into silly putty. The 80's song "One thing leads to another" fits this car to a T!

[novadmc]

Nice looking deck. Which Kenwood model is that?

KDC-X995. it replaces the broken KDC-X817.

ordered a KDC-X998 for my daily car.

[81dmc]

yay for the Kenwood harness wiring being the same (for the wires i need/want to use), even after almost a decade of new models!


Funny, my double din Kenwood has the same connector as well...

Lower production costs maybe?

[Tillsy]

New to the forum. I've been working on 5738 for the last 6 months..

Welcome aboard :cheers:

[DMC5180]

Funny, my double din Kenwood has the same connector as well...

Lower production costs maybe?

Perhaps it's more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing.

[Jonathan]

Here you go...

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/0C13183C-E2D1-4195-9545-8450DD252B1C_zpsecgdi5nm.jpg

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/B7E67A35-A062-469D-A95E-96CE4B72BA73_zpsrn48sw4d.jpg

Hey, thanks for those.

So there's not really anything behind there then, is there? Like no abundance of space, pretty much just goes straight towards the firewall and then comes out the other side in the cabin behind the parcel shelf upper backing? That's a good thing though maybe, as less space or stuff back there means less stuff to have problems with.

[81dmc]

Hey, thanks for those.

So there's not really anything behind there then, is there? Like no abundance of space, pretty much just goes straight towards the firewall and then comes out the other side in the cabin behind the parcel shelf upper backing? That's a good thing though maybe, as less space or stuff back there means less stuff to have problems with.

Exactly that, but through the pontoon.

Consequently, If a car is missing the coil cover and someone decides to hose down the car, expect some issues.

[Dangermouse]

Last week I cranked the D over and realized I didn't have the normal resistance on the clutch pedal and couldn't find a gear while the engine was running.

So today I thought I could just top off the reservoir and get my clutch back.

Well, not only did I overfill the reservoir and make a nice puddle under the car, I still haven't resolved my original issue.


New to the forum. I've been working on 5738 for the last 6 months and so far have done the VOD, cleaned and refreshed the intake, rebuilt the fuel system, cleaned out gas tank, new fuel accumulator, brake calipers rebuilt and master cylinder replaced, rebuilt steering rack and replaced firewall bushing, new tires, new vac lines, and now to the automatic transmission - just drained the transmission fluid and pulled the shift governor and sent it to DMC Texas for the guts to be replaced with modern electronics. Need to do the headliner and refinish the gas tank plate under the car due to leaking brake fluid turning the epoxy into silly putty. The 80's song "One thing leads to another" fits this car to a T!

Congrats on your maiden posts :)

[Denver DMC]

Courtesy of Dana Haglin of Boulder, Colorado. The engine is running better than ever. Very happy with Dana's work.

[Peripatetic]

Picked up the "Millenium Falcon" today and put on the new plates. I also picked up a spare key and relay for LED flashers.

Mike's daughter did a cartwheel.

I'm not the best storyteller.

[Kukem]

Tried to get the Fuel Filter off to change it. No dice. That bugger is on there. 2 hours to get the hard line nut off to attempt to loosen the line from the 90 adapter. Not going great. :(

[DMC-81]

Tried to get the Fuel Filter off to change it. No dice. That bugger is on there. 2 hours to get the hard line nut off to attempt to loosen the line from the 90 adapter. Not going great. :(

Hi there,

I'm fighting with the fuel filter's hard line to 90 degree elbow as well. It has no corrosion, and I can get the nut off no problem, but I'm having no luck separating the line so far. I got a couple tips from these threads:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12017-Stuck-Tight-Fuel-Filter

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7818-Hard-Line-Going-Into-Bottom-Of-Fuel-Filter-Won-t-Come-Out

My question to the community is: assuming I can get the hard line to come off without damage, will it go on again without any leaks.... i.e. is it a reusable connection?

Thanks,

[Kukem]

Hi there,

I'm fighting with the fuel filter's hard line to 90 degree elbow as well. It has no corrosion, and I can get the nut off no problem, but I'm having no luck separating the line so far. I got a couple tips from these threads:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12017-Stuck-Tight-Fuel-Filter

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7818-Hard-Line-Going-Into-Bottom-Of-Fuel-Filter-Won-t-Come-Out

My question to the community is: assuming I can get the hard line to come off without damage, will it go on again without any leaks.... i.e. is it a reusable connection?

Thanks,

Last night, after a lot of swearing and some painful slips of the wrench, I got it to come off (with a nice face full of gas). I actually used the rust penetrator to help loosen the hard line from the fitting. It seemed to act like a lubricant and gave it some wiggle. I had to be very careful when I tapped the 90 degree elbow to help with the separation. I did scrape the hard line a bit, but it doesn't seem to be deep. it took over 4 and a half hours to do the job total with 3 and a half just trying to get the hard line separated. I can actually say, after laying under the car, I feel your pain. It seems that every new job seems harder than the last. My next outing is the fuse box... and I am not looking forward to it.

[durech]

I finally got around to replacing my automatic transmission filter with one of the new ones that Michael has produced. Since I acquired the car about two years ago (w/25K miles) and even though the transmission fluid was changed right after I got it, I really didn't know whether or not there was actually a filter installed. I had heard that since these had not been produced for many years that many owners would run without one (as opposed to a dirty clogged one). Well to my surprise, I drained the fluid, removed the pan and I still had one installed. While it looked pretty dirty and the magnet was covered in debris, the mesh inside did not look too bad. Anyway, glad to have a nice new one installed. Here are some picture of the old one.

41462414634146441465

[bfloyd]

Replaced my rear deck interior light fixture that was dangling by the wires since February. When i was working on my stereo upgrade, I accidentally snapped off the retaining clips on one side while removing the rear wall. I tried gluing it into place, but it wouldn't hold. I bought the $30+/- "aftermarket replacement" from DMCH, and I'm really NOT impressed with the quality of it. It seems to be MUCH flimsy'er, thinner plastic, and doesn't really have that good "snap" to it when selecting modes like the original did. If I can figure out a way to repair my original by scavenging parts off the new one, I might swap back.

[mburshtain]

Replaced my rear deck interior light fixture that was dangling by the wires since February. When i was working on my stereo upgrade, I accidentally snapped off the retaining clips on one side while removing the rear wall. I tried gluing it into place, but it wouldn't hold. I bought the $30+/- "aftermarket replacement" from DMCH, and I'm really NOT impressed with the quality of it. It seems to be MUCH flimsy'er, thinner plastic, and doesn't really have that good "snap" to it when selecting modes like the original did. If I can figure out a way to repair my original by scavenging parts off the new one, I might swap back.

I'm curious to see which aftermarket part you used, can you share the part number ?

[DMC-81]

I'm curious to see which aftermarket part you used, can you share the part number ?

DMCH sells an aftermarket replacement. I bought one of those but haven't installed it yet. Other than that, this thread may help.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6731-Dome-Light-Assembly

[Alan]

Replaced my rear deck interior light fixture that was dangling by the wires since February. When i was working on my stereo upgrade, I accidentally snapped off the retaining clips on one side while removing the rear wall. I tried gluing it into place, but it wouldn't hold. I bought the $30+/- "aftermarket replacement" from DMCH, and I'm really NOT impressed with the quality of it. It seems to be MUCH flimsy'er, thinner plastic, and doesn't really have that good "snap" to it when selecting modes like the original did. If I can figure out a way to repair my original by scavenging parts off the new one, I might swap back.

I broke off one of the tabs, too. I was able to fix it using Plastic Weld. It successfully reattached the broken one. I also added it to the unbroken side to reinforce it. So far, so good.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160414/d2378959153078fc0bce19612dba2b3c.jpg

[bfloyd]

The part number I ordered for the replacement interior lamp assembly was Part#: 100540A. It works, it holds itself in place, and I no longer have dangling purple wires behind the cargo net, but like I said, the quality of the whole part just seems thinner and cheaper than the original. The original makes a distinct "snap" sound when you toggle it in the "ON-OFF-AUTO" positions, and you can "feel" when the switch clicks into place. This one feels very loose, and you've kind of got to "flip it and hold it" to let the switch make contact. I will definitely look into repairing my original.

[Patrick C]

The part number I ordered for the replacement interior lamp assembly was Part#: 100540A. It works, it holds itself in place, and I no longer have dangling purple wires behind the cargo net, but like I said, the quality of the whole part just seems thinner and cheaper than the original. The original makes a distinct "snap" sound when you toggle it in the "ON-OFF-AUTO" positions, and you can "feel" when the switch clicks into place. This one feels very loose, and you've kind of got to "flip it and hold it" to let the switch make contact. I will definitely look into repairing my original.

These are what I am using. Direct replacement, fit tighter than the originals that fell out, and they make a definite "click" when changing their position. I'm very pleased with them.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-928-Interior-Dome-Light-set-OEM-2-lights-courtesy-lamp-inside-/231541784753?nav=SEARCH

[ILM1010]

I started old Betsy Lou up today and drove her around, all systems are a go.....

hate minnesota hibernation

[Jonathan]

Replaced both front turn signal bulbs. Hadn't been in that area in a long time. It sure does make for an excellent moth and flying bug catcher. I think I could have started my own insect museum with what came out of there.

[Lenny]

I prep'ed the car for Celebration. I also gave my neighbors a ride around the block. The kids were really excited and had nothing but good things to say. However mom, giggled like a little girl.

We are staying at Disney World's Saratoga Springs Resort for the weekend. Saturday is the car show and Sunday is the road rally.

[Edwin5814]

I'm test driving a new steering wheel to replace my Momo knockoff. The grips on the upper left and upper right are placed perfect for turning left or right with one hand. I also made a custom decal with my manufacturing date and vin for the center of the steering wheel. This steering wheel mounts just fine on the DMC steering wheel adapter.

414884148941490

[Peripatetic]

I was spooked by the two recent DeLorean fires so I bought a two pack. One for the car and one for the kitchen.

There was someone outside of Home Depot taking pictures of my car. He asked how many miles my car had and I explained that the odometer doesn't really work. He then made a comment on how John DeLorean couldn't design a functioning odometer because "he was on crack the whole time while designing it".

Which marks my first stranger crack comment. Glee!

[jwrayth]

http://i.imgur.com/rjkdNz2h.png

Installed the DPNW front strut tower brace. Other responsibilities mean I need to wait until next weekend to take her out for a test-run though :(

[Chris 16409]

Installed the DPNW front strut tower brace. Other responsibilities mean I need to wait until next weekend to take her out for a test-run though :(

I've got one of those too. I'm interested in what you think about it. Post back after you go on that test drive.

[DrJeff]

I got driver's side spring and hub fitted today, but ran into a problem. I got the angle drive several years ago and never got around to fitting it. My speedometer bounced a little.

First clue was that the angle drive didn't snug into the spindle nut. Even after secured in place with the ring, it would move in/out by between 1/16 and 1/32 inch. Good chance it was going to rattle a bit. Still I persisted.

Second problem, the 'new' angle drive is 25mm width from the large nut. The original angle drive 20mm. The extra 5mm means that the angle drive is conflicting (hitting against) the spring. Turning the wheel means that the angle drive strikes the spring. In the second photo, I'm holding the stock angle drive underneath the fitted 'new' angle drive.

4151341514

The spring is a new lowering spring, but I don't suspect that the spring is taking up the space, rather than the angle drive being too wide.

Unfortunately, I searched all my records and can figure out who I bought the angle drive from. (Based on the vendor site pictures it appears that it was the angle drive from SpecialTAuto.com).

Jeff

[jawn101]

After my passenger side window regulator finally failed during a parade yesterday, I spent today replacing it with the spare A-1 I had in the garage. It's not as terrible a job as everyone seems to think, though it did take me about 5 hours to get everything lined up and working just so. The drivers side took longer when I did it years ago, because I let the drop glass fall off the tracks. Lower it halfway and then tape it in place with big strips of painter's tape so it never falls and loses alignment.

The A-1 mounting brackets are pretty ghetto... But once everything is in place and closed up, you don't have to look at them and they work a million times better than OEM.

Next weekend will be an oil change and then an attempt to track down why my dome lights are acting up.

[Patrick C]

I replaced my original LCAs this weekend with Byrne Heninger's beefy replacements. Not a terribly easy job, but I got it done in about 10 hours.

[Rich_NYS]

I replaced my original LCAs this weekend with Byrne Heninger's beefy replacements. Not a terribly easy job, but I got it done in about 10 hours.

How much are the Heninger LCA's? They come with ball joints installed, right?

[Patrick C]

How much are the Heninger LCA's? They come with ball joints installed, right?

Roughly $980 shipped. Yes, they come with new balljoints and polyurethane bushings installed.

[Jonathan]

I got driver's side spring and hub fitted today, but ran into a problem. I got the angle drive several years ago and never got around to fitting it. My speedometer bounced a little.

First clue was that the angle drive didn't snug into the spindle nut. Even after secured in place with the ring, it would move in/out by between 1/16 and 1/32 inch. Good chance it was going to rattle a bit. Still I persisted.

Second problem, the 'new' angle drive is 25mm width from the large nut. The original angle drive 20mm. The extra 5mm means that the angle drive is conflicting (hitting against) the spring. Turning the wheel means that the angle drive strikes the spring. In the second photo, I'm holding the stock angle drive underneath the fitted 'new' angle drive.

4151341514

The spring is a new lowering spring, but I don't suspect that the spring is taking up the space, rather than the angle drive being too wide.

Unfortunately, I searched all my records and can figure out who I bought the angle drive from. (Based on the vendor site pictures it appears that it was the angle drive from SpecialTAuto.com).

Jeff

1.) You don't think it's related to your springs not being straight? Like in a cylindrical way? They look deformed to me.

2.) Maybe you should finish putting everything back together, and when the suspension is under it's usual loads, perhaps some of that extra room you need will reappear?

No idea really. Just thinking those springs don't look right and maybe once the sway bar and other items are back together it will correct that.

[DrJeff]

1.) You don't think it's related to your springs not being straight? Like in a cylindrical way? They look deformed to me.

2.) Maybe you should finish putting everything back together, and when the suspension is under it's usual loads, perhaps some of that extra room you need will reappear?

No idea really. Just thinking those springs don't look right and maybe once the sway bar and other items are back together it will correct that.

1)Yes the springs do look a little askew to me, but I'm not sure what else I could do during installation that would make them straight? It seems this would be a feature of the springs themselves and not something that would be determine by installation.

2) Certainly possible, just doesn't feel likely. I've got to get the car on the ground and the suspension settled anyhow, so we'll see if a gap opens up. Worst case I'll be swapping out the angle drive (again) with the hub/LCA still attached.

[Bitsyncmaster]

1)Yes the springs do look a little askew to me, but I'm not sure what else I could do during installation that would make them straight? It seems this would be a feature of the springs themselves and not something that would be determine by installation.

2) Certainly possible, just doesn't feel likely. I've got to get the car on the ground and the suspension settled anyhow, so we'll see if a gap opens up. Worst case I'll be swapping out the angle drive (again) with the hub/LCA still attached.

If your shocks were to long that would cause that spring to bend more.