What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Replaced my throttle assembly that had the sealed closed deceleration valves with my other assembly with working deceleration valves. Also installed that solid aluminum spacer that replaces the OEM rubber spacer under the throttle assembly.

Adjusted the curb idle screw to two turns from non contact. Went for a drive and when I got home the idle was a little high so backed it off to 1 3/4 turns from closed. Will see if that curb idle setting will work on the next drive.

It was 80 deg. today and the "Norm" AC was blowing 42 deg. from the center vent on blower #3. So looks like I'm not leaking refrigerant for another year.

[mr_maxime]

Washed it and changed out the passenger door strut

[Gregadeth]

Roughly $980 shipped. Yes, they come with new balljoints and polyurethane bushings installed.
Looks like regular nyloc nuts on the ball joints. I read that one of the recalls was to replace those with the castle nuts with the pin going thru them. Should that still be done with the aftermarket LCAs & ball joints, or does that only apply for the OEM units?

[Patrick C]

Looks like regular nyloc nuts on the ball joints. I read that one of the recalls was to replace those with the castle nuts with the pin going thru them. Should that still be done with the aftermarket LCAs & ball joints, or does that only apply for the OEM units?

These aftermarket units actually have two nuts: a thinner nut goes on first, and then the larger nylock acts as a locknut on top of that. One could use a castle nut and drill a hole through the balljoint to add a cotter pin if they wanted, but I feel confident in the double nut method.

[jwrayth]

I've got one of those too. I'm interested in what you think about it. Post back after you go on that test drive.

Went out for the test drive today and I could feel a noticeable difference. In Edinburgh there are lots of cobbled uneven streets and the car normally fights me to stay in a straight line, but with the strut bar installed it was greatly reduced which was a benefit I wasn't expecting. Once out of town and getting to throw the car about a bit at speed it was less noticeable but still felt tighter.

Overall I'm pleased with the results, though the installation with the acorn nuts doesn't line up with the board backing my carpet nicely and I was forced to drill holes in the back board to get it snug. I was planning to replace it anyway, but it was surprising since the bar is advertised as fitting under the carpet entirely.

[minispeedstar]

https://vimeo.com/163936677

Fitted remote central locking to the existing OE locking system

[Morpheus]

Went for a nice scenic drive on the back roads of Lake County, ending at a marina to spend the day on a boat celebrating a friend's birthday. The weather was perfect! Saw this little guy just off the dock...
41650

[Jonathan]

Last week I had the car out in the driveway, ready for a wash, and realized my driver's window was starting to come off the front track. So no car wash, but I did spend most of the week with the door apart doing odds and ends.

Got the window back on and secure, reglued the felt to the rubber strip that goes on the inside bracket against the window, reglued my pull handle rear cover back on as it had come loose, removed the door latches for a thorough cleaning, did both the latch and lock rod adjustment procedure and then fished out a half dozen screws, fir trees and other things that were rattling around inside the door.

Went for a good drive yesterday and the car drove nice. Got home and had a quick look in the engine bay. It either seemed like it was warmer than usual or the smell seemed off, like burnt rubber. I could see a short strand of the alternator belt hanging on to the forward side edge. It looks like maybe there is some interference with perhaps the cooling fins on the alternator. It doesn't appear to be close enough to touch the belt, but I thought I read someone recently mention these cooling fins will deflect at high RPMs and perhaps begin to interfere?

So, might be on to the next issue, lol. I am still running the original Ducellier alternator, and have not had charging issues since I have owned the car. It's not oozing anything, but it's not brand new looking either, far from it. I see on the DMCH parts store they have a replacement 120 Amp alternator that includes a new belt, the fastening hardware you need and instructions. This a good package to upgrade with? I assume there is a thread or two on these replacements, so I'll go search for that now.

Nice 'gator, Brandon! Lets just say a Canadian kid coming down to vacation in Florida might have been surprised seeing those on the golf course! And man do they get big! If your ball rolls into the water in those parts, just forget it and grab another one out of your bag!!

41653416544165541656

[Chris 16409]

Overall I'm pleased with the results, though the installation with the acorn nuts doesn't line up with the board backing my carpet nicely and I was forced to drill holes in the back board to get it snug. I was planning to replace it anyway, but it was surprising since the bar is advertised as fitting under the carpet entirely.

I had the same problem. This is what I ended up doing:

41659

I also glued some rubber risers by the front edge of the board so that the board wouldn't wobble. The carpet lays pretty flat now. I even lined the sides of the trunk with carpet. It's all removable in case I want to go back to the original look.

41660

[jwrayth]

I had the same problem. This is what I ended up doing:

41659

I also glued some rubber risers by the front edge of the board so that the board wouldn't wobble. The carpet lays pretty flat now. I even lined the sides of the trunk with carpet. It's all removable in case I want to go back to the original look.

41660

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing :) I had cut in just enough to get the baseboard to fit, but that idea with the rubber risers is a good idea that I'm going to copy :cool1:

[jawn101]

Installed my new dome light timer from Dave M and did an oil change, then went for a lovely shakedown drive around town.

[Gregadeth]

Did internal door adjustments on the driver's side to fix an intermittent lock/unlock issue. I have the Lockzilla keyless system and when pressing the unlock button sometimes the driver's side wouldn't fully unlock. It works great now, hopefully for forever.I had disconnected my passenger side window switch since I bought the car because using it would cause the window to come off its track. Finally got around to fixing this today so I can use both power windows now. Not only was the window off both the front and rear track but whichever PO installed the window regulators neglected to fasten a couple of the bolts to the inside of the door, it was being held in by one bolt and could be moved around easily by hand. This is probably what caused the window to come off the tracks in the first place.

[MTDMC]

Picked up some oil for the car today.

[Jonathan]

Washed it.

Man these cars look nice when clean.

41699

[Victor]

Washed it.

Man these cars look nice when clean.

41699

Yes very nice when clean indeed, specially with a dry look (just my taste).

I did an oil change. Took my filter from carquest. I am so amazed by how clean and clear the oil stay. Even from an old engine. I love my PRV.

[MTDMC]

Got my Covercraft sunshade today.

[Stainless]

Ordered a set of black SS braided fuel lines from DPI because of renewed fears of my original lines failing and causing a fire. I personally prefer the black lines to the others available.

[bytes311]

Installed a brand new 3-core radiator after my stock had sprung a leak. Speaking of which, do I scrap the original rad or is there a market for them?

[mr_maxime]

Took the time to actually tighten down my front fascia. It was pretty loose but now its not going anywhere (except hopefully a paint shop soonish). I also adjusted the hood release cable. Now it's really nice and tight.

[Morpheus]

Installed a brand new 3-core radiator after my stock had sprung a leak. Speaking of which, do I scrap the original rad or is there a market for them?

That's a good question. I still have my (non-leaky) original with the fans still attached, just sitting in a box taking up space. For that matter, I still have my original water pump as well.

[Trstno1]

Just fixed my speedo issue yesterday. It took a new angle drive, dust cap and lower speedo cable for good measure. Took it for a drive and it worked great!!

Problem- was so happy that it was fixed, went to go take her for a drive today and the drivers door handle broke while trying to open the door. :swear1: sometimes I think this car hates me....

Does anyone know if the metal door handles are in stock at DMC?

[leroylem]

Replaced the plastic clutch line with 3/16 brake tubing, mated to the original fittings at the master & slave---$25 bucks only in material---
Leroy 2126

[Alan]

I hooked up Toby's Wings-A-Loft Remote Trunk Release System. I got it with a "lift assist." I don't recall what Toby calls that. Now, when I pop my luggage compartment lid (either manually or with my keyless), it lifts out of the latch. That, coupled with the remote release system, makes getting into the trunk a one handed operation. Big fan.

I also washed and polished 1121.

I ordered more LEDs. Soon I'll be done with everything but the binnacle lights. I like the dimmer.

Anyone have an easy solution (read nearly plug and play) for converting the dimmer for LEDs?

[Peripatetic]

Bought a new battery and switched them. Finally got a good look how the kill switch installed by DMCMW before I bought it looks like. Placed it in a slightly more convenient angle.

This marks the most mechanical repair I've ever done. The previous record holder was improperly installing wipers on a my Daily Driver and paying for an oil change.

[Patrick C]

Thoroughly degreased, wire-brushed, and painted my front brake calipers with caliper paint. Will rebuild with new seals and pistons next.

[mr_maxime]

I didnt drive it and went with my daily driver. The fuel pump went out while trying to leave work. My 2000 honda accord is now less reliable than my 1982 delorean.

[Stainless]

Started tackling the replacement of the original fuel lines with the SS sleeved kit from DPI. Everything was going great until one of the hollow bolts sheared when installing one of the new lines. I must have been trying to tighten it too much. These things supposed to be torqued or am I supposed to wing it? Here's what's left of the sheered hollow bolt:
41833

How about the hollow bolts? Are they available at local auto parts stores or is it a DeLorean-vendor-only part? Not in a rush to get this put back together.

This is as far as I made it before the bolt gave way:
41834

The new lines didn't come with any instructions and I just removed one line and replaced it before moving on to the next, using the one closest in length to the original line. I figured that was the best way to proceed. Those new small copper washers can be a beast not to lose on some of these lines, by the way. Any help or tips on the remaining lines would be great. These are what I will have left to do:
41835

[DMC-81]

Started tackling the replacement of the original fuel lines with the SS sleeved kit from DPI. Everything was going great until one of the hollow bolts sheared when installing one of the new lines. I must have been trying to tighten it too much. These things supposed to be torqued or am I supposed to wing it? Here's what's left of the sheered hollow bolt:
41833

How about the hollow bolts? Are they available at local auto parts stores or is it a DeLorean-vendor-only part? Not in a rush to get this put back together.

This is as far as I made it before the bolt gave way:
41834

The new lines didn't come with any instructions and I just removed one line and replaced it before moving on to the next, using the one closest in length to the original line. I figured that was the best way to proceed. Those new small copper washers can be a beast not to lose on some of these lines, by the way. Any help or tips on the remaining lines would be great. These are what I will have left to do:
41835

Hi Jared,

Yeah, those hollow bolts are delicate. Per the workshop manual, the 8 mm torque value is 7 ft/lbs, the 10 mm is 9 ft/lbs, and the 12 mm is 17ft/lbs.

I don't know where else you can get the bolts, perhaps someone else can comment on that.

[Mark D]

Hi Jared,

Yeah, those hollow bolts are delicate. Per the workshop manual, the 8 mm torque value is 7 ft/lbs, the 10 mm is 9 ft/lbs, and the 12 mm is 17ft/lbs.

I don't know where else you can get the bolts, perhaps someone else can comment on that.

I checked at all the local auto parts stores and a few places like grainger/fastenal wasn't able to source any of the hollow bolts locally when I checked a few years ago. NAPA thought they could order some but they were more expensive than the vendors and in the end they were on back order. The quickest and easiest solution for this kind of stuff is usually a call to DMCMW.

[Mark D]

Started tackling the replacement of the original fuel lines with the SS sleeved kit from DPI. Everything was going great until one of the hollow bolts sheared when installing one of the new lines. I must have been trying to tighten it too much. These things supposed to be torqued or am I supposed to wing it? Here's what's left of the sheered hollow bolt:
41833

How about the hollow bolts? Are they available at local auto parts stores or is it a DeLorean-vendor-only part? Not in a rush to get this put back together.

This is as far as I made it before the bolt gave way:
41834

The new lines didn't come with any instructions and I just removed one line and replaced it before moving on to the next, using the one closest in length to the original line. I figured that was the best way to proceed. Those new small copper washers can be a beast not to lose on some of these lines, by the way. Any help or tips on the remaining lines would be great. These are what I will have left to do:
41835

You've got the right idea replacing them one at a time so you can match up the length of the existing hoses. One thing that may be helpful is to wait to tighten anything down until you've got them all installed. That way if you decide you want to change the angle of the hose on the fuel distributor or adjust how one hose overlaps over the other you can do it more easily. Then do a final torque on everything at the very end.

If you do end up removing a hose and having to re-tighten down the hollow bolts you should replace the copper washers. They're really only good for one use since they deform slightly when they're tightened down. Copper strain hardens when worked cold so repeated re-torquing may not always give you a reliable seal. In reality you can probably get away with reusing them once or twice without leaks but if it were me it wouldn't be worth the risk of causing a fuel leak or a fire. If you're ordering some new hollow bolts pick up some extra copper washers in a few different sizes so you have a few spares on hand.

Once you get everything reconnected and you go to start the engine for the first time be on the lookout for any leaks and be ready to shut down the engine quickly if you have to. Having a fire extinguisher on hand just in case wouldn't be a bad idea either. When it comes to high pressure fuel you can't be too careful.

[Stainless]

Awesome. Thanks for the help guys.

[DavidProehl]

I checked at all the local auto parts stores and a few places like grainger/fastenal wasn't able to source any of the hollow bolts locally when I checked a few years ago. NAPA thought they could order some but they were more expensive than the vendors and in the end they were on back order. The quickest and easiest solution for this kind of stuff is usually a call to DMCMW.

I did the same thing when I broke mine a couple years ago. I also called DMCMW. I paid more in shipping than I did for the bolt, but when you need a bolt you need a bolt! They only require 4 ft lbs of torque, which feels moderately light, but it is better to be a little light than overly tight as we both learned! Just run the car for a while while watching your fittings to ensure it is tight enough to form a proper seal and isn't leaking.

[DMC5180]

Stainless,

Invest in some torque wrenches 40-200 inch Lbs and a 5-150 ft lb. you can get inexpensive MIC ones at most autoparts stores. If you are worried about accuracy, don't. I have a couple and checked them on a torque tester at my work. They were surprising accurate and well with in the tolerance spec.


Dennis

[Ryan S.]

Mine was all rusted and some of squares were no longer square with damages. So I have decided to experiment with some cheap eBay wire mesh guard. It's totally reversible and inexpensive mod. I think it looks ok. I might try octagon shape wire mesh next time.

4183841839

[Domi]

Not bad at all :)

[DavidProehl]

Mine was all rusted and some of squares were no longer square with damages. So I have decided to experiment with some cheap eBay wire mesh guard. It's totally reversible and inexpensive mod. I think it looks ok. I might try octagon shape wire mesh next time.

4183841839

That works really well. I think the key for that mesh is to be as invisible as possible, to blend in with the rest of the front spoiler. I wouldn't notice it was different unless I was looking for it.

[DMCMW Dave]

That works really well. I think the key for that mesh is to be as invisible as possible, to blend in with the rest of the front spoiler. I wouldn't notice it was different unless I was looking for it.

That's not bad. I've seen a few cars with a mesh that is more metal than holes, which is an open invitation to an overheat problem. You want as close to "nothing" as possible.

[Jonathan]

That's not bad. I've seen a few cars with a mesh that is more metal than holes, which is an open invitation to an overheat problem. You want as close to "nothing" as possible.

They say trees are 90% air, but I'll be damned if I can get a golf ball to go through one without hitting that other 10%!

[Alan]

So, I'm handy, but not very mechanical. I'm not likely to build my own EFI or rebuild an engine, much less a car. However, this was one of the most difficult things I've done so far...

There's a special place in hell for whoever designed how the license plate lights attach to the rear fascia. I'm continuing my LED conversion and I almost soiled myself when I realized the metal plate the screws go into was running around "somewhere in there." I discovered after not too long that it was hanging on the wiring and could be reached from the taillight opening. Even then, it was a pain to line the screws up.

That was way more difficult than I think it needed to be.

So, I got LEDs installed for the rear end lighting.

[mr_maxime]

There's a special place in hell for whoever designed how the license plate lights attach to the rear fascia. I'm continuing my LED conversion and I almost soiled myself when I realized the metal plate the screws go into was running around "somewhere in there." I discovered after not too long that it was hanging on the wiring and could be reached from the taillight opening. Even then, it was a pain to line the screws up.

That was way more difficult than I think it needed to be.


Hahaha yeah. Thankfully i realized it was hanging loosely before it got lost. Still a ridiculous way to screw something down.

[DMC-81]

So, I'm handy, but not very mechanical. I'm not likely to build my own EFI or rebuild an engine, much less a car. However, this was one of the most difficult things I've done so far...

There's a special place in hell for whoever designed how the license plate lights attach to the rear fascia. I'm continuing my LED conversion and I almost soiled myself when I realized the metal plate the screws go into was running around "somewhere in there." I discovered after not too long that it was hanging on the wiring and could be reached from the taillight opening. Even then, it was a pain to line the screws up.

That was way more difficult than I think it needed to be.

So, I got LEDs installed for the rear end lighting.

Yeah, that was challenging. :hmm: I think I ended up loosely securing the plate to the fascia with painters tape with most of the tape hanging down in the fixture opening like a pull tab. After I got the screws started, I pulled the tape out.

How do you like the LEDs? I really liked the whiteness of the reverse and the license lights.

[Peripatetic]

Got myself a new kumho spare tire from Discount Spare Tire. I had the original 35 year old tire and it looked worn. They had one in stock, strangely. Worst case scenario: I wasted $80.
41861

Also, I found water inside. Made a mental note to look into it later.
41862

[Alan]

Yeah, that was challenging. :hmm: I think I ended up loosely securing the plate to the fascia with painters tape with most of the tape hanging down in the fixture opening like a pull tab. After I got the screws started, I pulled the tape out.

How do you like the LEDs? I really liked the whiteness of the reverse and the license lights.

So far I'm happy with the LEDs. I'm not done yet. I just ordered side market LED's tonight. I also ordered the flasher unit, so for now I still have incandescents for the turn signals.

I have LEDs for the trunk and engine compartment. I went with warm white. They look good to me and are brighter. I also went warm white for the license plate lights.

I did xenon white for back up lights. They're very cool white but crazy bright (at least to my eyes).

I have warm whites coming for the dome lights. I also reached out to Dave (Bitsyncmaster) to get his dimmer.

I hope to have everything converted except the binnacle in another week or two. I still want to be able to adjust the brightness of the binnacle lights, so I'm sticking with incandescents.

[Jonathan]

So, I'm handy, but not very mechanical. I'm not likely to build my own EFI or rebuild an engine, much less a car. However, this was one of the most difficult things I've done so far...

There's a special place in hell for whoever designed how the license plate lights attach to the rear fascia. I'm continuing my LED conversion and I almost soiled myself when I realized the metal plate the screws go into was running around "somewhere in there." I discovered after not too long that it was hanging on the wiring and could be reached from the taillight opening. Even then, it was a pain to line the screws up.

That was way more difficult than I think it needed to be.

So, I got LEDs installed for the rear end lighting.

I cannot think of a single job I've done on the car that was easier than expected. In fact, I can't even think of something I've done on the car that was about as difficult as I went in thinking it would be. Everything on the car seems to be a PITA for one reason or another.

[jwrayth]

Found my steering rack boots torn. Need to inspect further and see if I can get away with just replacing the boots and refilling, or if I'd need to pull the rack. Factory workshop indicates you should pull the rack to do the boots and re-lubricate properly, but I'm hoping that can be avoided and done in-situ... unless anyone chimes in here otherwise :)

[DMC-81]

I cannot think of a single job I've done on the car that was easier than expected. In fact, I can't even think of something I've done on the car that was about as difficult as I went in thinking it would be. Everything on the car seems to be a PITA for one reason or another.

Yes, some jobs are challenging. I'm 3/4 the way around my restoration, and so far for me, the fuel accumulator takes the prize as most difficult. Although, now that I have found the right tools and learned how it's done, I can probably do it again in a fraction of the time.

But, that is part of the reason that I bought this car - to have a restoration project. I enjoy a challenge if I can take my time and not feel pressured to get it done.
:wrenchin:

[Jonathan]

Yes, some jobs are challenging. I'm 3/4 the way around my restoration, and so far for me, the fuel accumulator takes the prize as most difficult. Although, now that I have found the right tools and learned how it's done, I can probably do it again in a fraction of the time.

But, that is part of the reason that I bought this car - to have a restoration project. I enjoy a challenge if I can take my time and not feel pressured to get it done.
:wrenchin:

Agree with all of that, Dana.

A bunch of things on my car were a bear to do initially because of rusty fittings. Doing my interior project of stereo, speakers, wiring and seatbelt assemblies was about the ugliest for me. I fought with that seatbelt receptacle bolt on the inside side of the passenger seat the most. Not feeling pressured like you need to drive the car to work the next day helped though. When I lost my patience, I took a break for a while or the rest of the day, then tried again the next day. There were times when I lasted 2 minutes before I was ready to starting swinging with a hammer at the car!

A few other areas aren't a lot of fun if you're tall too. I've been in and under the footwells a number of times, but boy does it make for getting sore. I finally got my steering column bushing in the way it was intended and have the carpet burns on my elbows to show for my efforts!

A friend years ago, after I mentioned to him what I was currently working on, said "aren't you finished with that yet?" I don't know how I answered at the time, but I came to realize the answer is "no, you're never finished!"

That's part of the hobby, for better or for worse. I don't think I understood that when I bought my car in 2007. I do pretty much all the work on my car on my own. I don't know if "enjoy" is the right word for it though. It might be, some of the time I suppose. I have a love hate relationship with these cars. :)

[Alan]

Doing my interior project of stereo, speakers, wiring and seatbelt assemblies was about the ugliest for me. I fought with that seatbelt receptacle bolt on the inside side of the passenger seat the most.

Wonderful. I'm planning stereo/speaker work in a couple of weeks. I was thinking it should at least be relatively straight forward. Here's hoping.

I'm glad people keep getting stuff done. I like the forums because of that... some commiserating over difficulties, but lots of good, encouraging success stories.

[Jonathan]

Wonderful. I'm planning stereo/speaker work in a couple of weeks. I was thinking it should at least be relatively straight forward. Here's hoping.

I'm glad people keep getting stuff done. I like the forums because of that... some commiserating over difficulties, but lots of good, encouraging success stories.

Well, one thing I can say is that it feels pretty awesome to finish and then stand back and admire your work.

I know I felt pretty damn proud of myself when I got the stereo job done...


https://vimeo.com/69472641

[bfloyd]

Replaced the drivers side High Beam headlight for one that didn't have water in it. How a sealed beam headlight gets water inside I'll never understand, but it did.

Still have yet to tackle the "eyebrow thing" on the front fascia. I keep looking at it in the garage and telling myself it's not that bad, then at a car show in the direct sunlight it sticks out like a sore thumb.

[mr_maxime]

I cannot think of a single job I've done on the car that was easier than expected. In fact, I can't even think of something I've done on the car that was about as difficult as I went in thinking it would be. Everything on the car seems to be a PITA for one reason or another.

Converting from halogens to HIDs was simpler than I thought. There are a couple of other ones I cant recall because the process was simple.

[Jonathan]

I found this really great clock at a flea market on the weekend... and it keeps excellent time!!

41908

[Mark D]

I finally got my car out for spring...5 minutes into my drive I hear a strange grinding noise, belts slipping, and the voltage gauge is reading low. After a few tests it turns out my alternator is toast. I'd been meaning to replace it anyway since my cars PO installed one of Hervy's 140A alternators. At idle speed the output was sketchy and headlights would dim slightly. I plan to clean up the grounds and install one of DMCH's 120A alternators.

[Riley88]

Took our the throttle cable and cleaned and lubed it. Cleaned the inside of the cable tubing and cleaned the spool, microswitch and throttle assembly. Car has no resistance now with the pedal and is as smooth as butter cant believe how much better it is. Meanwhile my porsche 924's brakes completely died so I will have to find time somehow to install a new master cylinder=/

[Gregadeth]

Took our the throttle cable and cleaned and lubed it. Cleaned the inside of the cable tubing and cleaned the spool, microswitch and throttle assembly. Car has no resistance now with the pedal and is as smooth as butter cant believe how much better it is.How do you remove the throttle cable? What did you use for the cleaning/lubing? Thanks

[Peripatetic]

I replaced the fuse for the cigarette lighter. It apparently blew at some point. The past couple of weeks I was able to get the clock (on the same circuits) going by wiggling the phone charger. I'm especially confused now how that worked. I assumed the lighter was corroded to the point that it broke the circuitry but it was a fuse.

Does anyone know why there was some sort of grease inside the fuse plugs? It looked real black so I'm positive that DMCMW put it there.

Edit: Nevermind! I googled "electric grease".

[Riley88]

How do you remove the throttle cable? What did you use for the cleaning/lubing? Thanks

On the spool in th eengine bay is a single nut and bolt which holds the cable in place. The spool is closeest to you, only thing that looks like a spool in the engine bay. Once you remove that nut and bolt, you can look down and see the sheath it goes into. So after that go under the dash under the steering wheel to your accelerator pedal. at the top of the pedal is where the cable connects just slowly pull it out. Wipe the whole thing down good and use any cleaner you like on it. I then just used warm water and a clear tube ( to extend it so i can drip the water into the sheath, to get as much warm water into it as i could. I then used a bottle of cda ( keyboard cleaner im broke). to connect it to the tube and blow the air out so the air comes travels through and sprays the water out down near your pedal. Once i was getting clear water i just used a light lubricant . i got it from autozone just basic lubricant in a spray can. ill try to post a photo. I then sprayed the cleaner all over the spool and any part connected to it IE the springs and wiped them off clean. After Re inserted the cable starting from above where it connects to the pedal. Then you while keep the cable tight tight and put the bolt you took off on the spool back on. Sounds like alot but it took me 30 mins and WOW does the pedal respond now and feels buttery smooth

[Jonathan]

How do you remove the throttle cable? What did you use for the cleaning/lubing? Thanks


On the spool in th eengine bay is a single nut and bolt which holds the cable in place...

Working with the throttle cable is mentioned in this service bulletin also:

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-01-1.82.html

Cleaning is a good idea after 35 years. The recall/bulletin was original intended to deal with the cable freezing and suggested using an anti-freeze solution as the lube inside the cable, i.e. ensuring no straight water is still left in there.

[Gregadeth]

Thanks guys!

[mburshtain]

I replaced the inner throttle cable and the hood cable. Overall an easy job to perform...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Morpheus]

Bought some peace of mind for my D.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419vOrecVDL.jpg

$18 plus shipping on Amazon. If you don't have one, do it now. It could save your life AND your car.
http://smile.amazon.com/KID21006287-Kidde-FX511-Automobile-Extinguisher/dp/B00UVZKWM0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

[Ryan S.]

Nice. Matching color too

[bfloyd]

My contribution over the last two nights.... Perfectly STRAIGHT fascia! No more eyebrows.

http://i.imgur.com/vx2RRCyl.jpg

This was immediately after I released the reshaped fascia from the clamps, before the aluminum bars went in.
http://i.imgur.com/63Iemqgl.jpg

I couldn't have asked for better results.
http://i.imgur.com/pduhg0Ql.jpg

Now I just have to get it all back together before Saturday morning's car show.

[Stainless]

Bought some peace of mind for my D.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419vOrecVDL.jpg

$18 plus shipping on Amazon. If you don't have one, do it now. It could save your life AND your car.
http://smile.amazon.com/KID21006287-Kidde-FX511-Automobile-Extinguisher/dp/B00UVZKWM0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Where are you guys putting this? Does it fit somewhere convenient? Do you secure it into place somehow?

[Morpheus]

^I haven't installed it yet, but I plan on putting it behind the driver's seat. If it doesn't fit, I'll likely put it on the parcel shelf behind the seat. It comes with a little mount so it doesn't go rolling around, which is great.

[Stainless]

^I haven't installed it yet, but I plan on putting it behind the driver's seat. If it doesn't fit, I'll likely put it on the parcel shelf behind the seat. It comes with a little mount so it doesn't go rolling around, which is great.

Let me know where you end up putting it. I have my driver's seat all the way back since I'm on the tall side, and I like to have my parcel shelf netting up, which I'm afraid may make it difficult for me to get to quickly if I were to need it.

[bfloyd]

I bought the chromed 2.5 lb Haltron fire extinguisher from H3r on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. It looks amazing, but as with all fire extinguishers, I hope I never have to use it. Right now, it's just lying on the parcel shelf behind the drivers seat. I can't decide if I want to mount it there, or mount it on the side wall inside the truck space. It just needs to be somewhere where I can get to it fast if needed.

[Jonathan]

Cleaned a bunch of random stuff out of the inside of my passenger door.

I could hear things ticking around inside when I opened or closed the door. I needed to reglue the window felt strip anyway, so thought I'd go in and have at it.

I found a couple rivet ends that had been previously drilled out because the PO used rivets instead of screws to resecure the window bracket for some reason. Also found quite a few small chunks of what looks like broken glass. I've not had anything like that break since I got the car in 2007, so I figure the little bits have been in there for a while.

Oh, and more of the mouse nest that came with the car when I got it, but apparently I didn't get reaching back into the far crevices of the inner door to get it all when I first found it. The real treat was up towards the front latch where it was a combination of greasy lube that probably got sprayed on the latches plus mouse poo plus chunks of broken glass. It was a real hoot cleaning that out, lol.

It's real nice and clean and fancy now though. Makes me think that the "DeLorean smell" we all know well is more mouse leftovers that you didn't realize were still in these hidden places in the car and not just the foam being damp. Damp from mouse pee maybe, but not just damp.

[Andrew]

Where are you guys putting this? Does it fit somewhere convenient? Do you secure it into place somehow?

I leave one on the package shelf of my DeLorean. That way it is readily available should the need ever arise. While I had previously transferred a fire extinguisher from car to car (along with the tools that I always carry with me at all times) just last week I decided to buy individual extinguishers for each of my 5 cars. Like many things in life, I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it!

[Alan]

I completed an LED conversion. I still need to get Bitsyncmaster's LED compatible dimmer, but otherwise, I'm done.

In other news, I also discovered that I had 2 side marker housings that are cracked... now I have 3. But, hey, at least I have one good one.

[Peripatetic]

My contribution over the last two nights.... Perfectly STRAIGHT fascia! No more eyebrows.

http://i.imgur.com/vx2RRCyl.jpg

This was immediately after I released the reshaped fascia from the clamps, before the aluminum bars went in.
http://i.imgur.com/63Iemqgl.jpg

I couldn't have asked for better results.
http://i.imgur.com/pduhg0Ql.jpg

Now I just have to get it all back together before Saturday morning's car show.Was this literally two pieces of wood (towel to prevent scratches) and lots of clamps it was there more that the photos don't show?

[bfloyd]

I used a total of 4 pieces of wood - two for each side. I used a regular 2x4 (with a towel underneath it) on the top, and a 1/4" x 2" x 15" strip of oak I found at Lowe's on the bottom side of the fascia. Every time I clamped the 2x4 to the top, when I would tighten the clamps, it would deform the fascia worse than what I started with. I used the thin strip of oak on the bottom to give the clamps something to bear on and also help distribute the force of the clamps evenly across the area I was working. I heated everything up with the heat gun without anything being clamped to the car. Once the fascia was too hot to touch and easily pliable, I "sandwiched" the eyebrows between the wood and clamped it all down. When it finally cooled down, it was almost perfectly straight even without the bars.

Maybe it was the place where I positioned the bars, but when I went back to re-assemble everything last night, the "headlamp gap finishing" trim piece ended up being too tall as it was pushing up against the aluminum bar. I took the plastic trim piece and shaved off about 1/8" off the top of it on my disc sander and then it fit perfectly.

I'm very happy with the results.
http://i.imgur.com/hKab9lwl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CgCdu5Nl.jpg

[content22207_2]

When I reinforced my fascias I was concerned that accessing the upper headlight screws might become more difficult (you have to flex the fascia to get a screwdriver up there). Didn't want to stress my rattle can paint job anyway. So I modified the headlight brackets and buckets to put the upper screws on the bottom:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/377284_275707635807827_788521510_n.jpg?oh=6a8c35c8 d684153df8c4d5f9035e6b0c&oe=57ACE8C7

Please note the headlights are still right side up -- only the buckets are upside down.

One advantage of flipping the headlights upside down is I was able to fill the recesses above the high beams with pieces of aluminum (ordinarily that is the thinnest part of the fascia), then ran significantly wider reinforcing bars, extending about halfway front to rear (3" IIRC).

One disadvantage of all that reinforcement above the headlights is my fascia has developed a slight hair lip in the center of the grill. Not bad, but you definitely can see it if you look carefully. If I had it to do over I would extend the reinforcing bar all the way across the fascia.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Mark D]

Maybe it was the place where I positioned the bars, but when I went back to re-assemble everything last night, the "headlamp gap finishing" trim piece ended up being too tall as it was pushing up against the aluminum bar. I took the plastic trim piece and shaved off about 1/8" off the top of it on my disc sander and then it fit perfectly.

I ended up having to do the same thing...here's how much I had to trim on mine:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=41963&d=1463166957



One disadvantage of all that reinforcement above the headlights is my fascia has developed a slight hair lip in the center of the grill. Not bad, but you definitely can see it if you look carefully. If I had it to do over I would extend the reinforcing bar all the way across the fascia.


I also noticed a dip towards the center of the facia on my car... I was able to make it less noticeable by spacing up the metal support bracket that sits in the center of the fascia. For whatever reason it was adjusted poorly and was pulling the center downward. Here are before and after photos. I'm talking adjusting about that yellow zinc bracket right in the center. I think it was a 1/4" spacer I added below it.

Before
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=41962&d=1463166807

After
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=41961&d=1463166807

You can still see a little bit of a distortion the center, but it's not nearly as bad.

[mr_maxime]

I washed then clay barred my car. While cleaning the windows on the inside, I took off my wide angle rearview and put it in the passenger seat. I then sat on top of it and broke it when I went to clean the passenger side.

[mr_maxime]

Took it to a car show for the first time. I had the doors open most of the time and people were rather respectful, I didnt see anyone get in it or fiddle with it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Drove the D today for about 6 hours. First the brake pedal was squeaking when I pressed the pedal. On the way home the brake was quite but the clutch petal started squeaking when used. Also found my turn signals don't cancel. So have some things to look at to try to fix.

[Peripatetic]

@bfloyd: Thanks for answering. My cars brows aren't bad but it's on my list of eventuals.

Today I fixed the door light stick plunger thingy. It was bent out of shape and corroded a little so I used a file I found in my engine. Now the door lights come on when I open them. It was the first time I looked this closely at the footwell. Is it supposed to be this exposed? It looked like I'm missing some sort of cover to hide the wires and steering wheel.

I also unplugged the automatic antennae. There was no need for it to come up when I only listen to streamed radio.

[Stainless]

Worked more on replacing the original fuel lines with the DPI SS kit. Couldn't get the bolt loosened from the top of the fuel filter with the filter in place. Ended up taking it out for easier access.

When I put everything back together and checked for leaks after trying to start it, I noticed fuel is seeping from the hard line going into the fuel filter. I have it as tight as I can get it, but it's still seeping out. I loosened the bolt, wiped the hard line down with a towel, and the fuel starts seeping out immediately. Here's what it looks like shortly after wiping it down:
41991 41992 41993

I'm confident it's leaking from the where the hard line meets the thicker part as I saw a bubble coming from there. I'm sure I disturbed it as I was trying to get the fuel filter off, but don't know how to get it to stop leaking. The hard line is stuck, stuck, stuck into the elbow piece so I haven't been able to separate the two pieces. Any ideas?

[Morpheus]

Worked more on replacing the original fuel lines with the DPI SS kit. Couldn't get the bolt loosened from the top of the fuel filter with the filter in place. Ended up taking it out for easier access.

When I put everything back together and checked for leaks after trying to start it, I noticed fuel is seeping from the hard line going into the fuel filter. I have it as tight as I can get it, but it's still seeping out. I loosened the bolt, wiped the hard line down with a towel, and the fuel starts seeping out immediately. Here's what it looks like shortly after wiping it down:
41991 41992 41993

I'm confident it's leaking from the where the hard line meets the thicker part as I saw a bubble coming from there. I'm sure I disturbed it as I was trying to get the fuel filter off, but don't know how to get it to stop leaking. The hard line is stuck, stuck, stuck into the elbow piece so I haven't been able to separate the two pieces. Any ideas?

There shouldn't be any thread tape on that connection, it is a compression fitting and that's probably why you can't tighten the connection to the point it won't stop leaking. You were correct to put that tape on the end going into the filter, however.

Try cleaning the tape off the threads and see if that works.

[Kukem]

Worked more on replacing the original fuel lines with the DPI SS kit. Couldn't get the bolt loosened from the top of the fuel filter with the filter in place. Ended up taking it out for easier access.

When I put everything back together and checked for leaks after trying to start it, I noticed fuel is seeping from the hard line going into the fuel filter. I have it as tight as I can get it, but it's still seeping out. I loosened the bolt, wiped the hard line down with a towel, and the fuel starts seeping out immediately. Here's what it looks like shortly after wiping it down:

I'm confident it's leaking from the where the hard line meets the thicker part as I saw a bubble coming from there. I'm sure I disturbed it as I was trying to get the fuel filter off, but don't know how to get it to stop leaking. The hard line is stuck, stuck, stuck into the elbow piece so I haven't been able to separate the two pieces. Any ideas?

Had the EXACT same problem after I did mine in April. I thought I had it as Tight as possible, but it had to be tighter. I held the elbow fitting with vice grips and a soft pad between the teeth and the fitting and was able to turn the nut another full turn. Scared me to do it, but as dry as a bone. Morpheus is right; no thread tape on that connection either. That connection took 80% of my 4 and a half hours for that job just to get it to separate. I feel your pain.

[Kukem]

Did a gearshift linkage adjustment as getting the car into reverse has been a pain. Took a few tries but managed to get it working so that it shifts nice and smooth (relatively) through all the gears.
42003 Starting Shifter
42005 Where my cable was
42002 New position
42004 Able to shift with ease now

[Stainless]

Had the EXACT same problem after I did mine in April. I thought I had it as Tight as possible, but it had to be tighter. I held the elbow fitting with vice grips and a soft pad between the teeth and the fitting and was able to turn the nut another full turn. Scared me to do it, but as dry as a bone. Morpheus is right; no thread tape on that connection either. That connection took 80% of my 4 and a half hours for that job just to get it to separate. I feel your pain.

Thanks so much for the feedback. If feels like this job has taken me forever since I broke a hollow bolt, had to wait for it to arrive, then this fuel filter and line leak mess. I'll remove the thread tape and tighten it down as tight as I have to until the leak goes away. Glad I'm not the only one that had a rough go of this job.

[81dmc]

Thanks so much for the feedback. If feels like this job has taken me forever since I broke a hollow bolt, had to wait for it to arrive, then this fuel filter and line leak mess. I'll remove the thread tape and tighten it down as tight as I have to until the leak goes away. Glad I'm not the only one that had a rough go of this job.

If you think that's rough, try doing the same BS for the accumulator...

Never want to do that again...

[Patrick C]

Got a 4 wheel alignment done. Front alignment was WAY off after control arm installation!

[Jonathan]

1st cruise night of the season last night at the A&W.

421864218742188

[Rich_NYS]

1st cruise night of the season last night at the A&W.

421864218742188


Your machine is lookin' mighty fine, sir!!

[mr_maxime]

I discovered the dread "body damage hidden under paint"...

[Jonathan]

Your machine is lookin' mighty fine, sir!!

Thank you, thank you very much. She always poses nice for the camera :)

[mr_maxime]

Took off rub strip in preparation for stripping. Found more bondo, this time on the driver door.

[mr_maxime]

Took the hood off. Sheared all of the rock screen studs... sheared all of the front wing studs but one. Ill drill those and replace with stainless hardware anyways. Broke 2 rivets out of the fiberglass while trying to get the fenders off. No issues removing the rear fascia since I used stainless hardware these.

[nkemp]

sheared all of the front wing studs but one. Ill drill those and replace with stainless hardware anyways.

What dou you mean by the "front wing studs"? Do you meat the studs imbedded in the bumpers? If so, you can grind out the remaining rusty pieces and install replacements using polyurethane window adhesive. Been there, done that, it worked. If you are a belt and suspenders person you could reinforce with some window screen placed over the stud and glued to the inside of the bumper. But I don't think that is necessary. This avoids drilling through the bumpers.

If you are thinking of something else ... never mind :smile:

[mr_maxime]

Hahaha my bad I meant front spoiler. I was tired while writing that. I plan on just drilling through and replacing it with stainless bolts. I don't trust gluing stuff.

[nkemp]

Polyurethane is amazing stuff and works REALLY WELL for the plated studs in the bumpers/fascia. If the SS bolts are hidden then I agree. But if it doesn't work for you down the road (literally) then you can drill. I prefer to do the destructive steps as the last step. Not the first. Just my 2 cents worth.

[mburshtain]

My car took part in a short commercial video for an 80s T-shirt company.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160529/1a3c16e9bbb889456a2b63c6beeed76c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mr_maxime]

Got the last bolt off of the front spoiler. Took the front fascia off. The YouTube video I watched was missing removing the nuts from 2 the sides of the fascia. I took the 2 front fenders off.

I tried walnut blasting but it wasnt strong enough with fine grit to be economically viable. I got a very small section of the hood done with about 20ish pounds. it didn't damage the stainless so it might have limited uses. I then proceeded to use citriplus on the fenders and drivers side.

[Silverbullet]

I was on the fence as to the letters on the back....

I decided to do laser cut Chrome for some bling.... I like it...

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o19/AtHomeSoda/Letters_zpshnenrikk.jpg (http://s116.photobucket.com/user/AtHomeSoda/media/Letters_zpshnenrikk.jpg.html)

[Domi]

Looking really nice :thumbup:

[MML]

Went to Eurofest. Mine's the silver one.

http://i.imgur.com/GCoBFeM.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/ZVgFBjr.jpg

[DMC-81]

Today I started the installation of my new speakers. My radio sounds worse than the car in "Christine", so I'm replacing the speakers and refurbing the Craig deck. First up was the passenger rear.

A heat gun on low setting and patience worked like a charm on the armrest trim panel glue:
43250

The old Craig speaker. It was completely shot.
43251

The old one next to the new Kicker KS410
43252

I found that the Kicker speakers fit in the bracket well, and had the same connectors. Plug and play!
Installed
43253

While I had the trim panel off, I cleaned and securely attached the connection to the rear window defogger.
Before:
43254
After:
43255

I used the heat gun and contact cement to re glue the trim panel. One speaker down, 3 to go!

[Kukem]

Today I started the installation of my new speakers...!

I did my fronts last year before I laid it up for the winter. The back speakers look really daunting. I suggest the extension nuts, or couplers, or whatever for the fronts like others have used. I didn't have them and it was a very difficult install . Looks great so far.

[DMC5180]

[QUOTE=DMC-81;198073]43250

[\QUOTE]

Dana,

I see in your first photo you have screws holding down the door sills. I don't recall why the factory did that. Might have been an early VIN thing. But the screws are kind of unsightly IMO. The good news is you can replace the sills for a very reasonable cost or least they used to be. Unless of coarse you are keeping it as original as possible. Most of the later cars don't have the screws. It looks a lot better too. Of coarse the average joe would not know the difference.


Dennis

[Peripatetic]

I drove to a wedding at high noon. The A/C was inadequate and the quarter window is very limiting. However, if I blast the AC and open the windows I'm in a very comfortable solar oven. Halfway I figured "I'm going to fix this tomorrow" and after I arrived I figured "I'm fixing this before I get home."

So after the wedding I stopped at an auto parts store and bought a freon canister thing. The employee helped us, they weren't allowed to do anything, but they pointed to all the right spots and told us that we'd need an adapter since the car was so old.

The door and lourves open in a fairly exposed parking lot drew attention. At the peak I had seven guys all crowded around as I answered questions. It was a pleasant experience and it killed an hour where otherwise I would just sit and wait for the reception. I feel like I really made this guy and his little brother's day. He had to be 13-15 and he knows of Rich W's work and has watched every documentary about the car there is.

Someone did bring up something I didn't know how to answer though. Maybe someone here could help? With the position of the air intake, wouldn't rain get in and hurt the engine? We thought that the better spot would be underneath the car so that even if there was a rain splash back it wouldn't be able to get all the way up.

There was one guy in a black pickup who rolled down his window and yelled "FUCKIN' DELOREAN" and then drove off.

[DMC-81]

I did my fronts last year before I laid it up for the winter. The back speakers look really daunting. I suggest the extension nuts, or couplers, or whatever for the fronts like others have used. I didn't have them and it was a very difficult install . Looks great so far.

Thanks! Yeah, I read that the tweeter on the KS35 sticks out slightly, and you need to modify the bracket a bit. Do you have a link/ picture of the extension nuts?

My drivers side rear is planned for tomorrow.

It's not that bad once you get practice using the heat gun. Here are some tips I learned today:
1) It works fast! You need wave the gun, and keep it 8-10 inches away from the plastic.
2) Move it away from the area being heated after 3-5 seconds.
3) Use the blade of the screwdriver as your guide on how much heat to apply.
4) Too little heat is better than too much. You can always apply more to get the plastic to move/release.
5) The plastic/ vinyl will continue to heat for a few seconds after removing the heat source.
6) You need to do a few inches at a time to roll the plastic up and over the fiberglass edge. If you try to do one small area, you can rip the plastic
6) Watch for plastic that becomes shiny or worse, forms bubbles. That is too hot.

I also referred to John Spanglers great instructions:
http://www.johnspangler.com/DMC/rearspeakers.html

[DMC-81]

[QUOTE=DMC-81;198073]43250

[\QUOTE]

Dana,

I see in your first photo you have screws holding down the door sills. I don't recall why the factory did that. Might have been an early VIN thing. But the screws are kind of unsightly IMO. The good news is you can replace the sills for a very reasonable cost or least they used to be. Unless of coarse you are keeping it as original as possible. Most of the later cars don't have the screws. It looks a lot better too. Of coarse the average joe would not know the difference.


Dennis

Thanks. Yeah, I'm trying to keep it as original as possible. I think the QAC centers put those on, and they don't even go down enough to make any difference. :hmm: Maybe somebody knows the history of these?

[DMC5180]

I drove to a wedding at high noon. The A/C was inadequate and the quarter window is very limiting. However, if I blast the AC and open the windows I'm in a very comfortable solar oven. Halfway I figured "I'm going to fix this tomorrow" and after I arrived I figured "I'm fixing this before I get home."

So after the wedding I stopped at an auto parts store and bought a freon canister thing. The employee helped us, they weren't allowed to do anything, but they pointed to all the right spots and told us that we'd need an adapter since the car was so old.

The door and lourves open in a fairly exposed parking lot drew attention. At the peak I had seven guys all crowded around as I answered questions. It was a pleasant experience and it killed an hour where otherwise I would just sit and wait for the reception. I feel like I really made this guy and his little brother's day. He had to be 13-15 and he knows of Rich W's work and has watched every documentary about the car there is.

Someone did bring up something I didn't know how to answer though. Maybe someone here could help? With the position of the air intake, wouldn't rain get in and hurt the engine? We thought that the better spot would be underneath the car so that even if there was a rain splash back it wouldn't be able to get all the way up.

There was one guy in a black pickup who rolled down his window and yelled "FUCKIN' DELOREAN" and then drove off.

Not sure what you are asking. The air intake draws air from the ducting in the RH pontoon assuming you have all the duct work in place from the air filter housing. The is a special air intake inside the pontoon that allows any water to drain out the bottom before it gets sucked into the filter ducting.


Oh yeah, it's almost always the Redneck in the Pickup Truck who shows off his superior intellect.

Dennis

[DMC-81]

Someone did bring up something I didn't know how to answer though. Maybe someone here could help? With the position of the air intake, wouldn't rain get in and hurt the engine? We thought that the better spot would be underneath the car so that even if there was a rain splash back it wouldn't be able to get all the way up.


I think I know the answer. (I took that whole assembly out to clean it when I had the quarter panels/ rear fascia off.) There is a drain in the bottom, and the hole that goes through to the engine is in the middle. It has a diverter so water traveling down can't get in the hole. You can have a close look at part number 105831 if you want.

Oops . Dennis beat me to the answer. ^

[Christian Dietrich]

43272432734327443275
Installed my new A-pillar molding, next that will install the custom upholstered rear speaker panels.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[Kukem]

Installed my new A-pillar molding, next that will install the custom upholstered rear speaker panels.

That two tone looks sharp! I really like that.

[Christian Dietrich]

That two tone looks sharp! I really like that.

Thanks kukem and I appreciate that! You should see it at night when its all lit up!

43280432814328243283

[mburshtain]

43272432734327443275
Installed my new A-pillar molding, next that will install the custom upholstered rear speaker panels.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Well done!
How tough is it to install without removing the windshield?

[Christian Dietrich]

You actually get so much material that comes on these new a- pillar moldings that you can sit there and cut and trim it down to get everything to fit right. In the case of going towards the windshield I had carefully trimmed it enough back that it actually gets hidden behind the black metal trim that runs down the length of the windshield and you can only see the edges if you really look for it. When I finally got it all glued in there I took a small plastic tool and started talking the rest of the material up between the glass and the fiberglass backing of the body chassis that makes up the a-pillar. Like I said you really have to be up on the car and really looking around to see the edges of the material.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[DMC-81]

Today I installed the other rear speaker. 2 down, 2 to go!

43332

43333

43331

[Christian Dietrich]

4333543336
Installed my new steering wheel today!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[Jonathan]

4333543336
Installed my new steering wheel today!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

That binnacle and centre console stitching looks really good. Beauty!!

[Christian Dietrich]

That binnacle and centre console stitching looks really good. Beauty!!
Thank you very much Jonathan and I greatly appreciate that and I just tried to do things a little bit differently than what I've seen other people do!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[DMC-81]

That binnacle and centre console stitching looks really good. Beauty!!

+1 Very sharp looking! :thumbup:

[BABIS]

Today I installed the other rear speaker. 2 down, 2 to go!


what model of speakers have you installed?

[DMC-81]

what model of speakers have you installed?

Hi there,

I installed Kicker speakers. KS410 in the rear, and I have KS35 for the front (yet to be installed).

43341

Cheers,

[Jonathan]

Thank you very much Jonathan and I greatly appreciate that and I just tried to do things a little bit differently than what I've seen other people do!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

I'd like to see that in person sometime. From the pictures, it has the look of that "leather interior upgrade" you see them offer on some BMWs. I like it.


Hi there,

I installed Kicker speakers. KS410 in the rear, and I have KS35 for the front (yet to be installed).

43341

Cheers,

Hey, those boxes look familiar!

43342

And so do the "before" pictures!!!

43343

You'll enjoy the finished product!!!


https://vimeo.com/69472641

[Christian Dietrich]

I'd like to see that in person sometime. From the pictures, it has the look of that "leather interior upgrade" you see them offer on some BMWs. I like it.



Hey, those boxes look familiar!

43342

And so do the "before" pictures!!!

43343

You'll enjoy the finished product!!!


https://vimeo.com/69472641
Hopefully you will! When i still worked in the car industry as a GM Master tech, i got my ideas from luxury cars that i would see and i always wanted the 2 tone but never seen anyone do the stitching this way, so i figured it would look good in the DeLorean and so far alot of people have really liked it!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[Victor]

Replaced rear wheel bearing on the driver side. Quite a good, and hard job to do, specially without a lift, but everything went ok.

Now the driving is a little more quiet.

[mr_maxime]

Took more paint off. I think around 60% done now. Really not as bad as people made it seem.

[Michael]

Gave my D it's attitude back.

43465

I took these off several years ago and stored them. Found them today while cleaning up and decided to re install for the summer.

[Christian Dietrich]

43478
Test fitting the custom two-tone rear speaker panels and this week I will be reattached these. So looking forward to see how this girl's going to turn out when it's all done since everything from the doors forward is completed on the inside.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[Riley88]

Gave my D it's attitude back.

43465

I took these off several years ago and stored them. Found them today while cleaning up and decided to re install for the summer. What are those? wow

[Michael]

What are those? wow

Home made.

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?1192-DIY-Tinted-Headlight-Covers-for-around-50-00&highlight=Headlight+covers

[Alan]

Colleen and I took 1121 on a 300mi charity road rally. 1121 performed perfectly. We came in 39 out of 81. We (mostly) stayed to 5 over the speed limit. This was in a collection of cars that included AMGs, other expensive German things, and VERY expensive Italian things. I owe our top 50th percentile position to my navigator. It was a GOOD day.

[Morpheus]

Had it towed home after it stopped running.
43494

I made a troubleshooting thread to figure out what happened:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13759-It-was-running-perfectly-all-day-and-then

[Jonathan]

MacGyver stopped by today and installed a third brake light for me. Big time assist to Ed for his mighty fine how-to (http://www.16908.info/?p=1161)on the subject!

4350343504

[Alan]

Barkeeper's Friend. Holy crap... I attacked 1121 with it for the first time. I'm amazed. I'm calling it clay bar for stainless.

[Gregadeth]

Barkeeper's Friend. Holy crap... I attacked 1121 with it for the first time. I'm amazed. I'm calling it clay bar for stainless.Liquid or powder version?

[Peripatetic]

Today I washed my car for the first time since I got it. Only the wheels show any difference really. I think from now on I'll just wash those and clean the isolated dirty spots only washing everything every other month or so.

Unless Dave or Mike from DMCMW are reading, then I wash it every day.

I recharged the A/C and put the inlays into the car. They're spiffy.

OH. I almost forgot. I fixed the dust cap for the speedometer thing. Jacked up the car, put three layers of electrical tape on the very very yellow plastic and it was a tight fit. Normally the speedometer would fail me after 30min of driving or very rainy days. Or just cold days. Or whenever it wanted to. We'll see.

I asked a question on this thread a week ago but it's after midnight so I'll check for any answers later.

[Alan]

Liquid or powder version?

Barkeeper's Friend liquid. Easy on, easy off.

I used a bucket of water and 4 towels.
1) Wet panel with plain water using first towel (more than damp but not dripping wet).
2) Apply Barkeeper's Friend to wet panel using second towel (just damp towel since panel was already wet). I didn't use much pressure and ran with the grain. This didn't take long, maybe three to five passes over the whole panel.
3) Rinse panel with plain water re-using first towel (again, more than damp but not dripping wet). This took a couple or three passes over the panel. I rinsed the towel frequently in the bucket of water.
4) I used two towels to dry the panel. First one got it mostly dry. Second one, completely dry.

I worked one panel at a time and fairly quickly. I took the warning about rinsing within a minute to heart. I rinsed each panel as soon as I was done with the application step... It wasn't one minute, but I didn't leave the Barkeeper's Friend sitting on a given panel longer than finishing step 2 and moving onto step 3.

I did have some crud on the passenger door below the rub strip. I don't know what it was. I worked a little harder there and it's all gone.

The feel isn't as different or noticeable as clay bar on paint, but it did feel "cleaner" after the process. I'm hoping to only do this once or twice a season. We'll see how addicted I get.

[nkemp]

Recently I have noticed that the hood looked extra grungy. Needed washing. It wasn't just dirty. It looked like there was a greasy or waxy mess. It almost looked like I smeared it around the last time I washed it.

So I was holding a can of engine cleaner and pondered if it is waxy or oily and detergent isn't cutting it (literally and figuratively), maybe this would clean it up. I gave the hood a shot. It worked great. I followed quickly with a rinse and a detergent wash and rinse. And ... I was washing the car in the rain so it got rinsed for a couple hours. I'm on a well and my water, hard or softened, leaves spots. The soft rain water did a great job of rinsing. A couple hours later I rolled it out of the rain into the garage, towelled it off and it looks better than usual.

I also spot cleaned with the engine cleaner sprayed on a rag to get the black road tar type spots. Worked great.

[Mark D]

Gave my D it's attitude back.

43465

I took these off several years ago and stored them. Found them today while cleaning up and decided to re install for the summer.

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn.

I like.

[bfloyd]

Had my front and rear fascias repainted earlier last week. I searched through the forums and it seemed that many folks had gone with the "2011 Jeep Mineral Gray Metallic". I did so as well. Came out a little darker than I thought it would, but the finish and shine is so much better than it was before. I am very pleased with the results.

http://i.imgur.com/X7BHrEbl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XINhCGdl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/azth6C0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TG83muol.jpg

[Kerichbe]

I resurrected my power locks. I was not sure if the Solenoids were good or not, so I opted to leave them and replace the original door lock module with Houston's digital module. Plugged it in, and the locks work beautifully. Yay! Now to purchase the keyless entry module!

[Patrick C]

Had my front and rear fascias repainted earlier last week. I searched through the forums and it seemed that many folks had gone with the "2011 Jeep Mineral Gray Metallic". I did so as well. Came out a little darker than I thought it would, but the finish and shine is so much better than it was before. I am very pleased with the results.

http://i.imgur.com/X7BHrEbl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XINhCGdl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/azth6C0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TG83muol.jpg

I think I was the first one to gamble and try the 2011 Jeep Mineral Grey Metallic color several years ago. I am glad others are pleased with it too! Those photos do look a little bit darker than mine, but it looks great!

[novadmc]

discovered a coolant leak which appears to be coming from the water pump to y-pipe coupler and is hopefully just caused by a loose clamp (pump & associated hoses were replaced last may).

43573 43574 43575

looks like i'm ripping the intake manifold off this weekend...

[nkemp]

Had my front and rear fascias repainted earlier last week. I searched through the forums and it seemed that many folks had gone with the "2011 Jeep Mineral Gray Metallic". I did so as well. Came out a little darker than I thought it would, but the finish and shine is so much better than it was before. I am very pleased with the results.

They look great!

Years ago, many years ago, I was at the DeLorean service place in California. He had a delorean that was only one color (other than the SS) and the color closely matched the color of SS. So all the black parts and the bumpers were this one color that I'll call SS color.

The car looked great. I like how they came out of the factory, I like how yours look but I liked the monotone look as well.

[DMCMW Dave]

Replaced the fuel accumulator on my own car. An interesting data point.

I had installed the one that I just pulled out in approximately 1999. So it's 17 years old (ouch!). Ethanol gas that whole time. I had noticed the beginnings of a hot start problem last year, and a few weeks ago I about embarrassed myself at a car show.

I just realized that I've owned the car exactly half its life.

[SS Spoiler]

You know your gettn' old when a hose lets go and you
Mutter "jus' changed that.......oh...gee it's been 26 years ago!

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm also at the point in my house where I'm starting to remodel rooms for the second time.

[mr_maxime]

Cut my headlight buckets out to fit my aftermarket headlights and the rubber gasket this time

[Jonathan]

I'm also at the point in my house where I'm starting to remodel rooms for the second time.

Got a lead on a BIGGER garage door than the one you have?? You'll be able to park a small plane in there soon... or maybe Airwolf! <cue Airwolf theme music (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqcQUmKJEK8)>

[Christian Dietrich]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160610/c1b3ee062656c2f3d7c8e40932c14031.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160610/525e067921e4b00cb73001232cfda8d4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160610/ff490a895ee5e066b14685032ed0078f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160610/a7facef7b74b32d643d80839ceac0c52.jpg
Got my first shipment of stainless steel parts from Josh at DeLorean performance Industries. Here we have the stainless rear radius arms and the front brackets for the crumpled tube and sway bar Plus flexible brake lines that go from the brain to the radius arm. Next shipment will have my stainless steel lower control arms and full coilover adjustable suspension and four-piston front brake calipers with cross drilled slotted rotors and new rear solid disc rotors and all new brake calipers. Once I am finished putting interior back in the car I will start on this project.

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[mr_maxime]

Did you get the full stainless suspension package?

[Christian Dietrich]

Did you get the full stainless suspension package?
Yes i did! [emoji3]

Did you get the full stainless suspension package?


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[Farrar]

crumpled tube

That was a typo, right? Because if it wasn't... :(

[Christian Dietrich]

Huh thats weird? I never said crumple tube. Al i did was reply saying Yes I did? Odd?

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[Brian_SS_TT]

Parts back from the powder coater-Check
New springs, shocks from Grady- Check
Poly sway bar bushings from Europe-Check
LCA Brackets-Check
Fridge full of beer for after this project-Check

[Christian Dietrich]

Parts back from the powder coater-Check
New springs, shocks from Grady- Check
Poly sway bar bushings from Europe-Check
LCA Brackets-Check
Fridge full of beer for after this project-Check
Nice! Gotta have the beer! Thats the most important part! I just started getting my order from DPI of the stainless LCA, Full coil over adjustable shocks, stainless radius arm, cross drill and slotted front rotors and 4 piston calipers for front and new calipers, pads and rotors for the rear. Stainless brake lines from chassis to radius arms and a host of other goodies! Nice picture! Good looking set up you have!

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[Domi]

Yellow spring, they look very nice, like the rest of all the parts you've got here :)

[Brian_SS_TT]

Thank you, was going to stay with black but hey why not be a bit different! :cool1:

[Peripatetic]

Not sure what you are asking. The air intake draws air from the ducting in the RH pontoon assuming you have all the duct work in place from the air filter housing. The is a special air intake inside the pontoon that allows any water to drain out the bottom before it gets sucked into the filter ducting.


Oh yeah, it's almost always the Redneck in the Pickup Truck who shows off his superior intellect.

Dennis

So it does drain out! Fantastic.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/4163ca09fe2baee4303b73ff6d06cb5b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/26731d649c6a8b39d982eb8c156a8a1f.jpg

This came off of my car. Being a jeweler I'm going to make a replacement using sterling silver and later when we get the spare time I'll redo it in stainless steel. Steel requires the oven to be set at a higher temperature and usually we need it to be at a lower temperature for gold and silver work. This has been the main hold up on my DeLorean ring, it's a pet project that gets no prime time right now.

I'm thinking I can either replicate it exactly or make one that looks like the rim. Or give it the Flux capacitor icon. Or use a hook rig that let's me change it on a whim... So many ideas, so little resources.

[sdg3205]

So it does drain out! Fantastic.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/4163ca09fe2baee4303b73ff6d06cb5b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/26731d649c6a8b39d982eb8c156a8a1f.jpg

This came off of my car. Being a jeweler I'm going to make a replacement using sterling silver and later when we get the spare time I'll redo it in stainless steel. Steel requires the oven to be set at a higher temperature and usually we need it to be at a lower temperature for gold and silver work. This has been the main hold up on my DeLorean ring, it's a pet project that gets no prime time right now.

I'm thinking I can either replicate it exactly or make one that looks like the rim. Or give it the Flux capacitor icon. Or use a hook rig that let's me change it on a whim... So many ideas, so little resources.

DMCH makes a nice steel one.

[Gregadeth]

Applied AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel to the side trim pieces to restore the original black.
43689 43690

43691 43692

43693

Applied Meguiar's Scratch-X 2.0 on the rear fascia to remove the factory tape residue.

43694 43695

43696 43697

[novadmc]

starting last sunday and completing last night with the help of a fellow owner:

fixed the coolant leak due to loose hose clamp attached to the y-pipe hose,
installed DPI's SS fuel lines
installed a new DMCH fuel filter
installed DPI's vac line kit
cleaned a couple injectors that were not presenting a uniform spray pattern
swore a lot as we chased down and fixed a couple fuel leaks from the fuel filter's top banjo fitting and the main feed banjo fitting on the fuel distributor


43705 43706 43707 43708

[Bitsyncmaster]

Finished upgrading my TABs to the set from the EU. Trying to decide if I should replace the rear brake hoses since my car is up on blocks and I already have the SS hoses. I'm pretty sure those rear hoses are original.

[cdmcali]

Got mine back from DMC California a few weeks ago after not running for 13 years. It is running great but wanted to do some interior restorations. When I picked it up I got a new dash, Binnacle, headliners, shift boot, and seat covers. When I got the car home, within two hours I started ripping apart the interior. Every single part I have installed had some sort of issue but was able to fix it. Dash still is sitting back farther than I want it too. In a few months I will take it back out and grind off a bit of the front of it to make it sit properly. Headliner bracket was crooked and too far back so I had to grind off about 3/8ths of an inch to make it work. I had an upholstery shop do the seats cause it looked like a PITA. Almost there though. Thanks to everyone that has helped me out.

4371743718437194372043721

[Christian Dietrich]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/0ef3a1a0f28340d53e690f701c60955e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/af56d8e669d83783c65fae56603f6fe4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/8529232e80ad33d1a776247946f389c6.jpg

Started installing my custom rear speaker panels today and getting the seat belts mounted up!

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[Christian Dietrich]

Wtf is with the pictures posting sideways when I didn't take them sideways?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I was ready to drop the car off the blocks but decided to have a look at my rear axle boots. The drivers side has a tear in the one near the wheel hub. Don't know how long that has been torn so I will order a rebuilt axle. That is also the side that need the seal on the differential so will do that at the same time. I know Hervey has a double lip seal that most people like. Do any of the other vendors have that seal? That is probably the noise (rattle) I have been hearing this past year.

[novadmc]

I was ready to drop the car off the blocks but decided to have a look at my rear axle boots. The drivers side has a tear in the one near the wheel hub. Don't know how long that has been torn so I will order a rebuilt axle. That is also the side that need the seal on the differential so will do that at the same time. I know Hervey has a double lip seal that most people like. Do any of the other vendors have that seal? That is probably the noise (rattle) I have been hearing this past year.

i went with Grady's machine sleeved axle lip seal replacement (i had the same side leaking) and have been quite happy with it.

[mr_maxime]

Finished sanding the paint off the pillars. 98% there on paint now.

[Tillsy]

Changed and bled brake and clutch fluid. Also made up a hardline from clutch master to reservoir - sick to death of that hose sweating droplets of brake fluid.

[DMC-81]

On Thursday, I visited DMCFL while I was in the vicinity on vacation. I had a great chat with Tom and Mike and took some pics/notes of the pristine restored car they had for a couple restoration jobs that I still need to do.

43753

I also picked up a Battery Tender there. Connected it yesterday, and this morning, the battery is fully charged. It gives me peace of mind (with a red/green indicator ) that the battery will always be fully charged when I go to drive it.

[Christian Dietrich]

439384393943940439414394243943

My son and I installed some LEDs to light up the footwells while driving at night.

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[novadmc]

439384393943940439414394243943

My son and I installed some LEDs to light up the footwells while driving at night.

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looks nice! i've still got LED bulbs to replace all the ones in my binnacle (save for the alternator lamp) sitting on a shelf. one of these days ill get around to installing them...


tonight i replaced a few of the 8mm copper sealing washers on the last 2 injectors, and the 12mm washers around the return/freq valve double banjo that still had a bit of a weeping to them after i swapped all my stock fuel lines to DPI's braided stainless lines. The car's finally ready for more than just shakedown drives around the neighborhood again. :) (until a few more parts come later this week from PJ Grady :D )

[Nate88]

I installed the exterior LED light bulb kit from DMC. They look great!

Also replaced the rear interior light since the bracket on the old one wasn't holding it in.

Have the passenger side inner door seal, but didn't have time to replace it.

[nkemp]

43960
Do these ramps make my @$$ look big?

Just started exhaust removal :mecry: Fixing a leaky exhaust manifold gasket which makes it sound like a Volkswagen Bug. I'm dreading this. Currently it is "soaking".

[Christian Dietrich]

looks nice! i've still got LED bulbs to replace all the ones in my binnacle (save for the alternator lamp) sitting on a shelf. one of these days ill get around to installing them...


tonight i replaced a few of the 8mm copper sealing washers on the last 2 injectors, and the 12mm washers around the return/freq valve double banjo that still had a bit of a weeping to them after i swapped all my stock fuel lines to DPI's braided stainless lines. The car's finally ready for more than just shakedown drives around the neighborhood again. :) (until a few more parts come later this week from PJ Grady :D )
Thank you and I'm sure yours is going to look just as good when yours is all done. I still got the headliner to put in my car yet and the rear back panel and subwoofer and then my interior will be completely done and I'm still waiting on some parts from Josh at DPI to put his full coilover suspension on it and cross-drilled rotors with 4-piston brake calipers and stainless steel lower control arms and I already have the stainless steel radius arms so I should be getting some more of his duties by the end of the week. What color are you going to put in your binnacle?

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[Christian Dietrich]

Can someone tell me why my pictures get posted sideways when they weren't taken that way? It's actually getting quite annoying.

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[Michael]

439384393943940439414394243943

My son and I installed some LEDs to light up the footwells while driving at night.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Looks so nice...I have considered doing some ambient lighting in mine. Maybe not bright but more of a mood light in white.

[novadmc]

What color are you going to put in your binnacle?

I'm just going for an updated "stock" look. so i went with warm white leds for the 5 illumination lights and then replacement red/amber/green bulbs where applicable. bought them last august but just never got around to pulling the binnacle to install them. was too busy driving the car on the weekends! :)


Can someone tell me why my pictures get posted sideways when they weren't taken that way? It's actually getting quite annoying.

the forums are either incorrectly reading, or outright ignoring the orientation metadata embedded with your pictures. i occasionally have that happen from my iphone too. saving the pictures to my pc, and then re-saving them in the correct orientation is a (admittedly annoying) workaround.

[Christian Dietrich]

The warm whites definitely going to be nice on your car and I thought about that originally but I figured why not and try something completely different and it actually turned out to be better than I anticipated. My interior was so far gone that I stripped it out to where it was nothing but a steering column and a steering wheel so I figured I'd change some things up on it while I had it all apart. And yeah I don't blame you for wanting to drive your car all the time and not worrying about the lights lol

On the part about the posting of pictures I'm sure you're probably right that it's not paying attention to how the original picture was taken. I'm not too tech-savvy but I'm sure you're probably right.

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[jawn101]

Went for a nice drive in the country. A mile from home the engine died at a stoplight. No fuel pressure. Suspect my new DMCH pump/sender combo has died. No other explanation at this point.

[m_w]

For the first time, my D has A/C. Just in time for Summer weather. So happy :)

[DavidProehl]

Went for a nice drive in the country. A mile from home the engine died at a stoplight. No fuel pressure. Suspect my new DMCH pump/sender combo has died. No other explanation at this point.

That is nuts. So sorry to hear this. Keep us posted on the cause once fixed, I have that same unit, maybe I should be carrying a spare pump for it.

[Christian Dietrich]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160626/50d7373b3083d8bd0cddaae626b37c57.jpg
Here is the part number for a Delphi unit

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[novadmc]

took it on its first full length drive (to cars and coffee) after replacing fuel lines, vac lines, cleaning injectors, fuel filter replace, and a few other odds and ends. slight high (1k rpm) idle issue but it appears thats because the throttle lever isn't returning 100%. lightly touching it pressed a bit more on the idle microswitch and returns idle to normal. should be an easy fix by either adjusting the return spring or messing with the length of the throttle rod by 1 turn. other than that, the car runs great!

[Jonathan]

I've put somewhere around 600 miles on the car so far this season. And with a working speedo too no less!

Got my A/C blowing cold again thanks to a couple cans of RedTek12a. So, at least for the time being, I'm driving around in a bar frig instead of an easy bake oven!

Here's a pic from one of the cruise nights I went to this week. It's about 35 miles away, so it makes for a great drive there and back.

44033

[Rich_NYS]

Also made up a hardline from clutch master to reservoir - sick to death of that hose sweating droplets of brake fluid.

Would you post some details & pics please?

Thanks!

[novadmc]

Changed and bled brake and clutch fluid. Also made up a hardline from clutch master to reservoir - sick to death of that hose sweating droplets of brake fluid.



last year, when replacing my clutch master cyl, I ordered a replacement softline from PJ Grady (as well as his remanned master cyls). he uses Aeroquip AQP hoses. 0 sweating what-so-ever with that. great product.

[Kukem]

Took mine on a 2200km trip to Ontario and back to meet other Canadian owners. Performed like a champ! Mine is 3rd from the right. First time at a DeLorean get together and I loves it. 44060

[nkemp]

I failed to weld a nut on the broken stud (the farthest forward one on the passenger side). Then I found that the same one on the other side was also broken (can see rust on the end so I didn't break it while removing). And I noticed that the oil pressure switch I installed a few days ago is leaking around the connector like the last one. And on and on and on...

[DavidProehl]

I failed to weld a nut on the broken stud (the farthest forward one on the passenger side). Then I found that the same one on the other side was also broken (can see rust on the end so I didn't break it while removing). And I noticed that the oil pressure switch I installed a few days ago is leaking around the connector like the last one. And on and on and on...

Bummer...yeah, some days it feels like the fight will never end. Time for a tech day at your place?

[SKnight]

No more gray wheels, mine's now sporting freshly powder coated Bengal Silver rims. In addition to that she now has new DPNW radiator fans, new axle boots, new lip seal, and sway bar bushings.441074410844109

[Christian Dietrich]

No more gray wheels, mine's now sporting freshly powder coated Bengal Silver rims. In addition to that she now has new DPNW radiator fans, new axle boots, new lip seal, and sway bar bushings.441074410844109
When i powdercoated my engine 6 years ago i used the very same color! Looks great!

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[novadmc]

adjusted throttle rod arm by one full turn, 1000rpm idle is now fixed. adjusted dwell just a smidge so that is is now swinging right between 40. can't complain for 10-15mins work.

[leroylem]

adjusted throttle rod arm by one full turn, 1000rpm idle is now fixed. adjusted dwell just a smidge so that is is now swinging right between 40. can't complain for 10-15mins work.

Had a miss---found #2 cyl spark plug boot burned against the header (327 chevy engine)---replaced boot--OK now. Added 1200 degree protective insulating boots to plug wires---hopefully problem solved.

[DMC-81]

Finally finished my door lock system refurbishment...

[Alan]

New side markers all around (3 were cracked, 1 completely in half). Installed MT noise isolator. Refurbed my shift boot and repaired the plastic frame.

[nullset]

Is this officially the longest thread on dmctalk?

Installed my new DPI Spec 1 exhaust that I bought as a christmas present for myself!

Tomorrow I hope to finish getting 2072 back on the road. Just need to reinstall the water pump and intake manifold.

[MTDMC]

I won an award at a car show today.

[BABIS]

just finished installing remote door lock module and door actuators relays. no scotch locks were used ;)

44321

[Christian Dietrich]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/2ecfb26eb455849cf49b5099b43be27a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/d4280a1d99316f3f80788d9dc3bfbabc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/ab9a3bae6eb4412c8c908142f328f420.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/b590b4279672b320cd54ff4b90b4daff.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/75d55d0ffac117cfe8bb3cc3dd30f9f5.jpg

Installed 2, 105 lumens interior lights into 11035

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[dmcnc]

Where did you get these bad boys? I have LEDs in mine, but they're pretty weak.


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/2ecfb26eb455849cf49b5099b43be27a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/d4280a1d99316f3f80788d9dc3bfbabc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/ab9a3bae6eb4412c8c908142f328f420.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/b590b4279672b320cd54ff4b90b4daff.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/75d55d0ffac117cfe8bb3cc3dd30f9f5.jpg

Installed 2, 105 lumens interior lights into 11035

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[81dmc]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/2ecfb26eb455849cf49b5099b43be27a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/d4280a1d99316f3f80788d9dc3bfbabc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/ab9a3bae6eb4412c8c908142f328f420.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/b590b4279672b320cd54ff4b90b4daff.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/75d55d0ffac117cfe8bb3cc3dd30f9f5.jpg

Installed 2, 105 lumens interior lights into 11035

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Damn, those are very bright!

Now I'll have to get myself a pair...

[Christian Dietrich]

Where did you get these bad boys? I have LEDs in mine, but they're pretty weak.
I got them from super bright leds.com. 38mm festoon, 6 leds per bulb, 105 lumens. $6.95 each. I also ordered these for my trunk and my tag lights but I haven't installed them yet. These have a special circuit in it so you will have to remove your dimmer because it won't shut off but it will turn off and on when you open and close the doors. Only downfall but no big deal.

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[81dmc]

These have a special circuit in it so you will have to remove your dimmer because it won't shut off but it will turn off and on when you open and close the doors. Only downfall but no big deal.

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Dave's (Bitsyncmaster's) led dimmer module would fix that.

[Christian Dietrich]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Dave's (Bitsyncmaster's) led dimmer module would fix that.
No it won't because I already contacted him about that last night of getting that module from him. It has a special circuit in it to prevent that from happening. He said a whole complete different circuit would have to be built to make that possible.

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[81dmc]

No it won't because I already contacted him about that last night of getting that module from him. It has a special circuit in it to prevent that from happening. He said a whole complete different circuit would have to be built to make that possible.

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Do you know what makes it impossible, so that particular circuit can be avoided in the future?

[Christian Dietrich]

Do you know what makes it impossible, so that particular circuit can be avoided in the future?
He said because the circuit that makes up that led light has a switching regulator built into it and the capacitor that is on there stays charged even when it's supposed to come out and a pulse width modulation circuit like the Factory dimmer switch. So if you don't mind it not giving out it works totally fine. I'm okay with it that it comes on with the door and shuts off when I close it and it doesn't fade out.

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[81dmc]

He said because the circuit that makes up that led light has a switching regulator built into it and the capacitor that is on there stays charged even when it's supposed to come out and a pulse width modulation circuit like the Factory dimmer switch. So if you don't mind it not giving out it works totally fine. I'm okay with it that it comes on with the door and shuts off when I close it and it doesn't fade out.

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That makes perfect sense, and honestly, that is the first time I've ever seen such large capacitors on a 12v led "bulb."

[Christian Dietrich]

That makes perfect sense, and honestly, that is the first time I've ever seen such large capacitors on a 12v led "bulb."
It does have quite a large capacitor on it but it fit perfect within the new reproduction dome lights. No mods needed. Just snapped right in. If you dont mind it not dimming they turn on and off like any other light. The pictures really don't do it justice when you actually see you in person when it's completely dark outside. You go to open that door up and that whole interior comes to life all completely lit up. Total it 210 lumens of the 2 combined. All the lighting in my car is totally custom http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/556c43f2499f887d8c7a6ed9b20d81e4.jpg

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[81dmc]

It does have quite a large capacitor on it but it fit perfect within the new reproduction dome lights. No mods needed. Just snapped right in. If you dont mind it not dimming they turn on and off like any other light. The pictures really don't do it justice when you actually see you in person when it's completely dark outside. You go to open that door up and that whole interior comes to life all completely lit up. Total it 210 lumens of the 2 combined. All the lighting in my car is totally custom http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160710/556c43f2499f887d8c7a6ed9b20d81e4.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Very nice interior lighting!

I hope to do something similar one day, but first I must complete my instrument cluster project.

As of now, I'm waiting to receive a VHX-1024 from Dakota Digital. Once I receive it, I will combine the gauges on a plexiglass, then design a label for the face using scans of Dakota Digital's sweep pattern. Once done, I should have a backlit cluster with a small digital screen for the odometer and other functions. Also, I have already wired up their fan controller which connects to the cluster. This effectively deletes two diodes and the dreaded otterstat.

[Christian Dietrich]

Very nice interior lighting!

I hope to do do something similar one day, but first I must complete my instrument cluster project.

As of now, I'm waiting to receive a VHX-1024 from Dakota Digital. Once I receive it, I will combine the guages on a plexiglass, then design a label for the face using scans of Dakota Digital's sweep pattern. Once done, I should have a backlit cluster with a small digital screen for the odometer and other functions. Also, I have already wired up their fan controller which connects to the cluster. This effectively deletes two diodes and the dreaded otterstat.
Thank you and that should look really nice when you're done and I can only imagine how it will look when you have it all completed. I did all mine to my car because I completely gutted my interior because it was totally trashed.

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[DMC-81]

Over the past 2 days, I got a few jobs done on the interior. First, I installed my front speakers. Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

Driver side
44371
Passenger side
44370

Then I finished installing the black Mattaligner by adding 2 DMC on/off switches.

Finally, I started the work on replacing my fuse box. There were 2 fuse holders that were melted, and the PO installed inline fuses to repair them. I'll return them to stock. Man, removing all the connectors from the old one is very tedious!

Before:
44372

After removal:
44373

Old and New parts...
44374

Cheers,

[Peripatetic]

44375
I went to my first auto show. It was a special olympics charity thing.

While I love the car I'm not much for dealing with strangers so I sat a few cars away. Thanks to this forum I thought to bring something to prevent people from sitting in it. I brought a scale model of the James Webb Telescope to leave in the driver seat and a Matt Smith bobble head for the other one. Weirdly I blew a fuse for the radio.

Played Pokemon Go to pass the time. I noticed that while people took pictures of most of the cars, mine was the only one where people posed to be included with the car.

[dmcnc]

Just ordered mine! Thanks Christian!


I got them from super bright leds.com. 38mm festoon, 6 leds per bulb, 105 lumens. $6.95 each. I also ordered these for my trunk and my tag lights but I haven't installed them yet. These have a special circuit in it so you will have to remove your dimmer because it won't shut off but it will turn off and on when you open and close the doors. Only downfall but no big deal.

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[Christian Dietrich]

Just ordered mine! Thanks Christian!
Glad to help! [emoji3]

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[Bitsyncmaster]

It does have quite a large capacitor on it but it fit perfect within the new reproduction dome lights. No mods needed. Just snapped right in. If you dont mind it not dimming they turn on and off like any other light. The pictures really don't do it justice when you actually see you in person when it's completely dark outside. You go to open that door up and that whole interior comes to life all completely lit up. Total it 210 lumens of the 2 combined. All the lighting in my car is totally custom

The LEDs with switching regulators are not any brighter than an LED with resistor or other current regulation. Switching regulators can be more efficient (not as much wasted power in heat generated) but are usually only used with very high power LEDs. Using them with my dome unit will mess up the logic of how my dome unit works. I switch power off very quickly to check there is still a light still powered. With that capacitor on the LED switching power off that quickly does not show me there is still a load.

[Christian Dietrich]

The LEDs with switching regulators are not any brighter than an LED with resistor or other current regulation. Switching regulators can be more efficient (not as much wasted power in heat generated) but are usually only used with very high power LEDs. Using them with my dome unit will mess up the logic of how my dome unit works. I switch power off very quickly to check there is still a light still powered. With that capacitor on the LED switching power off that quickly does not show me there is still a load.
I never did say they were any brighter than normal LEDs. I was just stating what you told me the other night about the switching regulators and listing the specs. All my lights go out completely when Switched Off and I even checked the dome lights with the meter and both read nothing

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[Kukem]

Over the past 2 days, I got a few jobs done on the interior. First, I installed my front speakers. Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

Looks good! Did you have much trouble using the extensions? Also, I am very interested in how you went about that fuse box replacement. I need to do mine too. I have the write up from here for reference.

[Morpheus]

... Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.


Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

[gulwng3]

Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

See: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8110-Front-speaker-replacement-made-easy

I just replaced my front speakers this weekend and used the 4mm x 30mm brass stud extensions that I bought on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/M4x30mm-Brass-Hex-Hexagonal-Female-Thread-PCB-Standoff-Spacer-10pcs-/321979990788?hash=item4af780c304:g:pCAAAOSwqYBWnMp r

Andy

[DMC-81]

Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

Sure. Here is a picture of the extensions. They have a 7 mm body.

44467

I installed them on the 4mm speaker studs..

44468

They didn't screw all the way to the bottom of the studs so there was enough of a gap to handle the tweeter protrusion. Then, I checked the clearances..

44469

Again, the extensions alone prevented the tweeter pressing against the dashboard, but I opted to help fill in the approx. 3/8" gap between the mounting rim of the speaker and the dashboard surface. So I RTV siliconed a 3.125" diameter x 3/8" thick rubber o-ring to the rim. It was perfectly flush with the tweeter.

44470

Upon installation, I used the existing small 4mm washer between the brass stud and the speaker, and a new 4mm fender washer between the speaker and the lock nut. This provided a tight mounting.

Thanks again Kukem!

Cheers,

[Gregadeth]

Today I decided to inspect my front suspension. I found this little crack on the back of the driver side hub / steering knuckle where one of the bolts goes through. Not sure how long it's been there, and it even looks like it may have been broken off and glued back before though I can't be sure.

44475 44476 44477 44478 44479

Has anybody else had this happen? Can it be repaired or do I need to get a new one?

[DavidProehl]

Installed a "new" air filter to replace the one that has been in my car since I bought it 8 years ago (figured it was about time even though it was barely dirty).

I ordered it from RockAuto. It was listed as warehouse clearance. Judging from the box art this filter looks like it may be older than my car!

4450344504

[Jonathan]

Learn something new everyday, right?

Ok, lol, what the heck is this thing all about??

http://store.delorean.com/p-7773-tank-ac-vacuum.aspx

I didn't know I had one until poking around in behind the area where the charcoal canister is. It's not easily accessible from the looks of things, so figured I'd leave it alone unless there was some reason to check it over for condition or loose fittings or cracked hoses or something.

It's referred to as the A/C vacuum tank. Anyone know what it's function is? I don't and can only guess at this point.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Learn something new everyday, right?

Ok, lol, what the heck is this thing all about??

http://store.delorean.com/p-7773-tank-ac-vacuum.aspx

I didn't know I had one until poking around in behind the area where the charcoal canister is. It's not easily accessible from the looks of things, so figured I'd leave it alone unless there was some reason to check it over for condition or loose fittings or cracked hoses or something.

It's referred to as the A/C vacuum tank. Anyone know what it's function is? I don't and can only guess at this point.

It holds a vacuum when your engine does not produce much vacuum like hard acceleration. You need vacuum for brake assist and to operate the HVAC controls.

[nkemp]

1) Put new anti squeal shims in the front. Now the car won't get as much attention

2) Finished putting new exhaust gaskets in. That was not fun but it doesn't sound like an old VW beetle

3) Washed it for tomorrow's MPLS Movies In The Park featuring BTTF 1. The DeLorean are invited and the crowd loves it.

[Jonathan]

It holds a vacuum when your engine does not produce much vacuum like hard acceleration. You need vacuum for brake assist and to operate the HVAC controls.

Thanks Dave. I was wondering if it was a reserve tank of some kind. What you said makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

[Riley88]

44375
I went to my first auto show. It was a special olympics charity thing.

While I love the car I'm not much for dealing with strangers so I sat a few cars away. Thanks to this forum I thought to bring something to prevent people from sitting in it. I brought a scale model of the James Webb Telescope to leave in the driver seat and a Matt Smith bobble head for the other one. Weirdly I blew a fuse for the radio.

Played Pokemon Go to pass the time. I noticed that while people took pictures of most of the cars, mine was the only one where people posed to be included with the car.

Nothing but pidgeys hanging in and around my car

[Peripatetic]

44604I don't even know how to explain this photo to someone from 1982.

[81dmc]

Removed and modded my wiper motor to spin faster. I also made an access hole in the filler area for an easier removal.http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/D44F2BC6-EBE6-48E4-969D-469750220700_zps1pptxpvp.jpg

[DMC-81]

I'm waiting for an open barrel wire crimp tool to arrive so I can proceed with my fusebox replacement, meanwhile, I replaced the doorsill seals. They were deformed and dry.

Passenger side-before:
44655

Here is the old rubber seal removed, and the new one. The 2 original steel? rivets were a challenge to remove without bending the metal brace.
44656

I removed the old glue with carburetor cleaner, a putty knife and a rag. I used 3M yellow weatherstrip glue in its place on the new one.
44657

After the glue was removed, I used Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish and 1000 grit to polish the stainless metal braces.
44658

New rubber cut and installed. I used an X-acto knife to cut the holes, aluminum 1/8" pop rivets (2 per side), and new SP10462 SEM screws.
44659

New doorsill seals installed...
44660

One door seal pair down, 4 to go..

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed a new low pressure hose on a friends D today. It was a DPI line and the install went very easy. The line is much smaller than the stock line and without the pipe ends it was easy to feed along the frame. Just remember to slide the clamps onto the line before you push the pipe end into the line.

Also installed a new bushing in his car for the steering. Used the Grady bushing and had problems getting that pushing pressed in. What I think happened was the metal plate hole had some burs and therefor the bushing could not slide into the hole. I cut the four slots already in the bushing a little deeper and then it pressed in pretty easy.

[EdR5150]

Finished my white door LED lights:
44697

Blog Post: http://www.16908.info/?p=3008

[Farrar]

Finished my white door LED lights:
44697


<Picard> THERE! ARE! MORE! LIGHTS! </Picard>

Seriously, though - nice job. How do you manage to keep cool the LEDs in the front?

[EdR5150]

Seriously, though - nice job. How do you manage to keep cool the LEDs in the front?

They're simply taped around the inside of the splitter. They're in front of the radiator.

[81dmc]

I installed my "1984 Ford Cruise Control Kit." Three wires are inside the tube, and unfortunately, more would've not fit. So, as a fix, I slid two wires between the tube and the rubber cover. Also, if any of you are wondering about the horn switch, I am moving it to the steering wheel. I am going to use an MGB slip ring and horn contact for that.
447234472244724

Next was the addition of a relay block. I moved the old resistor bypass relay connector to the rearmost relay assembly and the hot start relay wiring to it in preparation for Dave M's relay. No more thermo time switch!:woot:

Also, I moved my amp to a better location...
44725
Fits under my Nissan spare.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Next was the addition of a relay block. I moved the old resistor bypass relay connector to the rearmost relay assembly and the hot start relay wiring to it in preparation for Dave M's relay. No more thermo time switch!:woot:

I mailed your hot start relay yesterday. Note, if you change your ignition ECU to the GM module, you can eliminate the resistors and bypass relay altogether. I'm now running with the resistors bypassed but soon will be unwrapping that rear harness again to remove that wiring.

[81dmc]

I mailed your hot start relay yesterday. Note, if you change your ignition ECU to the GM module, you can eliminate the resistors and bypass relay altogether. I'm now running with the resistors bypassed but soon will be unwrapping that rear harness again to remove that wiring.

I already removed the resistors for the installation of a Bosch blue coil with them built in. As for the ECU, I guess I will wait until the old one dies.

Also, that was some fast shipping!

Thanks

[DMC-81]

Over the past 2 days, I got a few jobs done on the interior. First, I installed my front speakers. Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

Driver side
44371
Passenger side
44370

Then I finished installing the black Mattaligner by adding 2 DMC on/off switches.

Finally, I started the work on replacing my fuse box. There were 2 fuse holders that were melted, and the PO installed inline fuses to repair them. I'll return them to stock. Man, removing all the connectors from the old one is very tedious!

Before:
44372

After removal:
44373

Old and New parts...
44374

Cheers,


Today was a long day finishing my fusebox replacement after needing to buy a second open barrel crimp tool.

I bought this open barrel crimp tool on eBay ($27), and it didn't work, so it's being returned. The problem is that you can't get leverage to crimp the connector, and you have to crimp the wire and the insulator separately. I wasted 2 connectors trying to get it to work...
44735

I bought this open barrel crimp tool from Grainger, and it works beautifully!! It has a ratching action, and crimps both the wire and the insulation at the same time. Just insert the connector in the tool, press halfway to preload it. Then insert a stripped wire, and then squeeze until the tool releases. Excellent tool! All for $50.
44736

Here is the first fusebox wire with a new connector. 33 more to go! (I used a plastic hole gauge to separate the new work from the old connectors).
44737

I found a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the original wires, so replaced them with a 7/16" length.
44738

After crouching on my knees for 6-7 hours, I got all 34 connectors done and heat shrink tubing installed. Now it's time to insert them into the new fusebox.
44739

All 34 connectors inserted into the fusebox. I started with the left row, and finished with the right row. The detailed diagram that I made on disassembly really helped me get each wire exactly where it was (left and right for each fuse).
44740

Fuse box clipped in and new fuses inserted. They have a much tighter connection. I crossed my fingers, connected the battery and started the car. Everything worked, and no fuses blown!! Phew!!
44741

Now my fuse & relay compartment is completely refurbished.
44742

:elmo1:

Cheers,

[OZ DMC]

I am slowly working through the renovation program for 2065 here in Australia - steering, front brakes, door locks, window motors etc. While the car is running very well it does have a noticeable idle "hunt" most evident when hot - Revs up and down between 850 to 1,400. (BTW, the engine is standard 2.8 Kjet)

I strongly suspect a vacuum leak but before I start pulling things apart I thought I would ask for commentary or advice.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

OZ DMC
DMC81

[Bitsyncmaster]

I am slowly working through the renovation program for 2065 here in Australia - steering, front brakes, door locks, window motors etc. While the car is running very well it does have a noticeable idle "hunt" most evident when hot - Revs up and down between 850 to 1,400. (BTW, the engine is standard 2.8 Kjet)

I strongly suspect a vacuum leak but before I start pulling things apart I thought I would ask for commentary or advice.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

OZ DMC
DMC81

First thing to do is clean your idle motor. Then if you can back off your curb idle screw (lower screw) that makes the idle motor run a little more open. The idle motors get the most torque at the half open point and the torque falls off as it approaches full open or full closed.

[Morpheus]

First thing to do is clean your idle motor. Then if you can back off your curb idle screw (lower screw) that makes the idle motor run a little more open. The idle motors get the most torque at the half open point and the torque falls off as it approaches full open or full closed.

Is there a how-to for cleaning your idle motor? I'm sure mine can use a little love.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is there a how-to for cleaning your idle motor? I'm sure mine can use a little love.

I just spay some solvent into the open valve and give it some hard twisting so the valve moves. You could put a few drops of thin oil onto the valve parts after.

[nkemp]

I sprayed carb/MAF cleaner & then penetrating oil into mine. I also have a pigtail that I use to exercise the motor full CW & CCW. As I recall, the center pin is 12Vdc and tapping either of the other two to ground moves it CW or CCW. Do not wire in any other configuration or failure may result.

If it is particularly gunked up, plug an end and let the penetrating oil sit and do its thing.

Anyone have any other methods?

[OZ DMC]

First thing to do is clean your idle motor. Then if you can back off your curb idle screw (lower screw) that makes the idle motor run a little more open. The idle motors get the most torque at the half open point and the torque falls off as it approaches full open or full closed.

Thank you Dave. Sorry I was slow to respond (PC issues).

[OZ DMC]

I sprayed carb/MAF cleaner & then penetrating oil into mine. I also have a pigtail that I use to exercise the motor full CW & CCW. As I recall, the center pin is 12Vdc and tapping either of the other two to ground moves it CW or CCW. Do not wire in any other configuration or failure may result.

If it is particularly gunked up, plug an end and let the penetrating oil sit and do its thing.

Anyone have any other methods?
Thank you nkemp

[OZ DMC]

I am slowly working through the renovation program for 2065 here in Australia - steering, front brakes, door locks, window motors etc. While the car is running very well it does have a noticeable idle "hunt" most evident when hot - Revs up and down between 850 to 1,400. (BTW, the engine is standard 2.8 Kjet)

I strongly suspect a vacuum leak but before I start pulling things apart I thought I would ask for commentary or advice.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

OZ DMC
DMC81

I may be able to answer my own question with this link:-

http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/k-jet-debugging-guide/#41

Enjoy

[81dmc]

Grounded the steering column in preparation for my horn slip ring.
44917

[DMC-81]

Today, I finished removing the top door seal brackets to put new seals on them. Drilling 16 rivets out with the outer door skin in close proximity was stressful. I got it done though by taking my time and measuring clearances, plus following an online guide which was great. I am trying to do this job without completely removing the T panel which is glued securely in the middle.

Carefully lifting the rear portion of the T panel slightly..
45036

I put a 3/8" clear vinyl hose over the torsion bars and further protected the area with a towel. One rivet drilled out..
45037

And so on until all rivets were done. I slid the seal bracket down slightly. Then closed the door. I used a pick through the holes in the bracket to slide the seal unit rearward and under the T panel. Then I had the bottom half of the rivets to deal with.
45038

I carefully drilled them just enough so they would drop in the door cavity..
45044

Old crusty seals and new ones..
45043

I also noticed the my striker guides had some rusty screw heads..
45040

I took them off, cleaned and re-grained the guides and installed SS equivalent screws...
45041

Much better looking..
45042

Next weekend I'll install the new seals.

[toyotafreak88]

44375
I went to my first auto show. It was a special olympics charity thing.

While I love the car I'm not much for dealing with strangers so I sat a few cars away.....

What a car to own for a guy like you, eh? LOL. :thumbup2:

I understand though. How do you do when you're approached filling up or in a parking lot?


Finished my white door LED lights:
44697

Blog Post: http://www.16908.info/?p=3008

BEAUTIFUL. Do you ever drive roads with those underglow lights on?

I think in Cali I'd be screwed. It's too bad these aren't really road legal AFAIK.

I like the BTTF feel it gives without actually converting anything. I might have to do something like this when I get a D. I don't really fancy the idea of all that stuff hanging off a car I'd probably enjoy driving to more than car shows and it's nice to see cars that remind me of the movie car without actually being one. Looks great!

[BABIS]

I got it done though by taking my time and measuring clearances, plus following an online guide which was great.
Can you share the guide? ;)

[DMC-81]

Can you share the guide? ;)

Sure! It was written by John Spangler. http://www.johnspangler.com/DMC/roofseals.html

Not completely removing the T panel was my only deviation. I'll see if that works when I install the new ones.
I also measured the clearances and put them in photo comments on my interior restoration album if that helps any.
:wrenchin: