What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[mr_maxime]

Pulled the engine and transmission out of the car. After 4 years of talking about wanting to do an engine swap, the day is finally here
https://i.imgur.com/iuIhCyb.jpg?1

[DMCMW Dave]

Pulled the engine and transmission out of the car. After 4 years of talking about wanting to do an engine swap, the day is finally here

Hint: It'll be more than a day. :)

[jackb]

Took my son for a short ride, then changed the oil.

[mr_maxime]

Hint: It'll be more than a day. :)

haha yeah. i need to start selling off everything so I can buy all the new stuff. today's the day the engine finally came out though. still plenty of work to do.

[bfloyd]

Attempted again today to finish installing my new DPI aluminum radiator and DeloreanGo cooling fans and shroud. The new radiator looks to be a fantastic piece of hardware. Had some issues with the new fans and shroud. One of the new fans was damaged in shipping and the folks at DeloreanGo immediately sent a replacement that arrived earlier this week. After I swapped out the damaged fan for the new one, I attempted to bolt up the new shroud to the new radiator. No luck there. It seems the new shroud is about a half to three quarter inches too short. You could either line up the top two mounting holes or the bottom two mounting holes - not both. I ended up lining up the top two holes for the radiator support brace (106851) and mounted them, and then took a 27 inch long piece of 1 inch wide aluminum flat bar stock and drilled holes in it to line up with the holes in the radiator. The aluminum bar acts as a clamp and holds the bottom of the shroud against the bottom of the radiator. Got everything done except the three bolts on the left side radiator bracket before I had to quit for the day and go to work. I should be able to finish it up tomorrow.

https://i.imgur.com/0llN3WJl.jpg

[Boxbot]

I'm seeing now the PO may have removed the passenger side clamp for the coolant pipe as it chewed a hole through the old intake. What are other owners doing to prevent this from rubbing?

5969759698


Fixed oil pressure light sender oil leak on driver's side of engine block. Was quite an effort to obtain a 23mm socket with proper connectors to permit removal and tightening. Before and after with some very minimal cleaning efforts.

5969659699


Then I decided I would fill gas tank for first time as it was on "E" and I wanted to make sure it was reading correctly. I just had nozzle in until it clicked off, and did not attempt to top it off. The total on the pump was 13.6 gallons. After receiving a compliment on my "aluminum D'Loren," I noticed a gas smell. Drove it home and parked it and found a large puddle of fuel behind the passenger wheel well. I then looked up capacity and see that it should only hold 13.2 gallons. Thanks to another thread, I read how to access fuel panel. It appears to be as simple as the white plastic screw on lid being loose so there wasn't enough pressure to shut off the nozzle I guess. Hand tightened, wiped off excess and will hope for the best on the next fill up. The good news is that it looks like all new components under here.

59700

[CFI]

I'm seeing now the PO may have removed the passenger side clamp for the coolant pipe as it chewed a hole through the old intake. What are other owners doing to prevent this from rubbing?

5969759698


Fixed oil pressure light sender oil leak on driver's side of engine block. Was quite an effort to obtain a 23mm socket with proper connectors to permit removal and tightening. Before and after with some very minimal cleaning efforts.

5969659699


Then I decided I would fill gas tank for first time as it was on "E" and I wanted to make sure it was reading correctly. I just had nozzle in until it clicked off, and did not attempt to top it off. The total on the pump was 13.6 gallons. After receiving a compliment on my "aluminum D'Loren," I noticed a gas smell. Drove it home and parked it and found a large puddle of fuel behind the passenger wheel well. I then looked up capacity and see that it should only hold 13.2 gallons. Thanks to another thread, I read how to access fuel panel. It appears to be as simple as the white plastic screw on lid being loose so there wasn't enough pressure to shut off the nozzle I guess. Hand tightened, wiped off excess and will hope for the best on the next fill up. The good news is that it looks like all new components under here.

59700

Your attachments aren’t working.

My car always smells after fill up, and I’ve seen fuel leaking in the same area you have. I’m positive it’s my fuel sending unit, but despite how much I clean and tighten it, it still leaks.

Also, our VINs are close! Probably built the same day:)

[Boxbot]

Your attachments aren’t working.

Hmmm. Hooray, May '81! 1598 just went on auction here and on eBay. I think it ended up in Europe.

Repost:

I'm seeing now the PO may have removed the passenger side clamp for the coolant pipe as it chewed a hole through the old intake. What are other owners doing to prevent this from rubbing?

5970159702


Fixed oil pressure light sender oil leak on driver's side of engine block. Was quite an effort to obtain a 23mm socket with proper connectors to permit removal and tightening. Before and after with some very minimal cleaning efforts.

5970359704


Then I decided I would fill gas tank for first time as it was on "E" and I wanted to make sure it was reading correctly. I just had nozzle in until it clicked off, and did not attempt to top it off. The total on the pump was 13.6 gallons. After receiving a compliment on my "aluminum D'Loren," I noticed a gas smell. Drove it home and parked it and found a large puddle of fuel behind the passenger wheel well. I then looked up capacity and see that it should only hold 13.2 gallons. Thanks to another thread, I read how to access fuel panel. It appears to be as simple as the white plastic screw on lid being loose so there wasn't enough pressure to shut off the nozzle I guess. Hand tightened, wiped off excess and will hope for the best on the next fill up. The good news is that it looks like all new components under here.

59705

[Jonathan]

My car always smells after fill up, and I’ve seen fuel leaking in the same area you have. I’m positive it’s my fuel sending unit, but despite how much I clean and tighten it, it still leaks.

Ditto on my car. I've had it out for about 100 miles so far this season, and once again I can see a wet spot around the fuel sender. I've repositioned that rubber gasket about a million times to no avail. The top of that hole where the sender goes is scrapped rough unfortunately. The ring threads on fine, but the sealing surface isn't flat enough to be leakless. Still been fumbling around with it trying to find a solution.




I'm seeing now the PO may have removed the passenger side clamp for the coolant pipe as it chewed a hole through the old intake. What are other owners doing to prevent this from rubbing?

5970159702



This isn't exactly a solution, but an option would be to take out that whole three-way valve and paper ducting garbage and put in the cold air only 'performance' duct instead. At least then you're scrapping plastic with that clamp instead of paper.

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a43/air-filter-and-cold-air-intake.aspx

[Spittybug]

Drove the living crap out of her the last couple of weeks. Acceleration and overall performance has never been better now that I have the throttle body restricted down to the correct diameter. Megasquirt does the rest and does it well. I was interested in my MPG even though I drive pretty 'aggressively'. Last tank was 18.6, so not terrible. I notice that I still have acceleration a little richer than I need it to be and I can defuel a bit more on deceleration. I can get this to 20mpg or so without any performance degradation I'm sure.

If you're tired of the expense of K-jet maintenance and want to modernize for the next 40 years of the car's life, go EFI. Laptop tuning and never opening the engine compartment are sweet!!!!!

[Boxbot]

Ditto on my car. I've had it out for about 100 miles so far this season, and once again I can see a wet spot around the fuel sender. I've repositioned that rubber gasket about a million times to no avail. The top of that hole where the sender goes is scrapped rough unfortunately. The ring threads on fine, but the sealing surface isn't flat enough to be leakless. Still been fumbling around with it trying to find a solution.



This isn't exactly a solution, but an option would be to take out that whole three-way valve and paper ducting garbage and put in the cold air only 'performance' duct instead. At least then you're scrapping plastic with that clamp instead of paper.

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a43/air-filter-and-cold-air-intake.aspx

I did. I am worried it will eat through the new one.

[CFI]

This isn't exactly a solution, but an option would be to take out that whole three-way valve and paper ducting garbage and put in the cold air only 'performance' duct instead. At least then you're scrapping plastic with that clamp instead of paper.

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a43/air-filter-and-cold-air-intake.aspx

I have this. It’s a wonderful upgrade as far as engine compartment looks go.

[CFI]

I did. I am worried it will eat through the new one.

My car has had that performance intake tube for 11 years. The clamp won’t eat thorough it.

[Col Bennett]

Details details details - even the bits you can’t see - to make sure nothing is missed before my refinished fascias finally go back on this week.

The license plate bezel jack nuts are installed onto my newly refinished NOS rear fascia - and nicely aligned. The front fascia fiberglass support is reattached along with brand new spring latches for the grille ball studs. The rear fascia fiberglass closing panel has been detailed along with the harness and connectors - including with new loop ties and engine bay light assembly.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_03.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_04.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_05.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_06.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_07.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-16_fascia_08.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

Very shiny!!

[Roberto]

Replaced my faulty windshield wiper washer pump today. What a PITA!
It's a tight squeeze pushing the water reservoir back up into the tub single handed without pinching the tubing and wiring.
Tip: I found the best place for tubing and wiring is beside the wiring loom that goes up through a rubber grommet.
Also used some copper grease on the bolts that hold the reservoir bucket in position for next time...

Robert
Vin #3915

[Sirolf]

Still fixing a coolant leak but i have a nasty habit cleaning and painting every part i take off. Even replaced 99% of all the M7 bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190420/884d0e3ef8bdb2c4d89aa1ac3f714f63.jpg

[CFI]

Went for a lovely drive. The vehicle passed 33,000 total miles. So far I’m averaging 600 miles per month during my ownership.

[Riley88]

virginia beach sunday meet up! All two of us!59835

[Lwanmtr]

Youre parked slightly crooked...hehe

[DMC-81]

Details details details - even the bits you can’t see - to make sure nothing is missed before my refinished fascias finally go back on this week.

The license plate bezel jack nuts are installed onto my newly refinished NOS rear fascia - and nicely aligned. The front fascia fiberglass support is reattached along with brand new spring latches for the grille ball studs. The rear fascia fiberglass closing panel has been detailed along with the harness and connectors - including with new loop ties and engine bay light assembly.

Wow....perfect!! :fancy:


Still fixing a coolant leak but i have a nasty habit cleaning and painting every part i take off. Even replaced 99% of all the M7 bolts.

Very nice as well!! I also dig your floor. :thumbup:

[Boxbot]

Replaced my faulty windshield wiper washer pump today. What a PITA!
It's a tight squeeze pushing the water reservoir back up into the tub single handed without pinching the tubing and wiring.
Tip: I found the best place for tubing and wiring is beside the wiring loom that goes up through a rubber grommet.
Also used some copper grease on the bolts that hold the reservoir bucket in position for next time...

Robert
Vin #3915

Did you do a writeup or take pictures? I've been putting off this job.

[Roberto]

Did you do a writeup or take pictures? I've been putting off this job.

There are photos of the procedure here if you scroll down this page ;
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3763-The-Restoration-of-1768/page8&styleid=2

As you can see it is really tricky removing the eight M5 screws that hold the black reservoir cover in place as the rivnuts will probably spin. Good idea to put some copper grease on new screws when refitting.

Hope that helps.

Robert
vin#3915

[Jonathan]

Anyone else ever have their headlight switch act strange like when you press it once, it seems like you pressed it twice?

Mine does this every so often. One press to turn on the running lights, another press to turn on the headlights and a third press to turn it off. Sometimes though you press it once and it feels like it 'double-clicked' sort of and goes straight to the headlights function except they don't always come on. It's bizarre really. As if it skips over part of the circuitry inside. Then I press it another time or two to get it back to the beginning and it's fine. Gremlins maybe. It's a Houston replacement from late 2007 when those first became available again after the NOS ones had run out.

[81dmc]

Anyone else ever have their headlight switch act strange like when you press it once, it seems like you pressed it twice?

Mine does this every so often. One press to turn on the running lights, another press to turn on the headlights and a third press to turn it off. Sometimes though you press it once and it feels like it 'double-clicked' sort of and goes straight to the headlights function except they don't always come on. It's bizarre really. As if it skips over part of the circuitry inside. Then I press it another time or two to get it back to the beginning and it's fine. Gremlins maybe. It's a Houston replacement from late 2007 when those first became available again after the NOS ones had run out.

Yup, I have seen that before. Normal for the DMCH switch.

These oddities are the reason why I went with DMCEU's stock style reproduction switch.

[CFI]

Yup, I have seen that before. Normal for the DMCH switch.


I think DMCH made a change or two to their switch over the years. I have one built within the last 4 years that works perfectly.

[Col Bennett]

And that’s one sexy ass! Best rear light assembly of any car ever imho.

My newly refinished NOS rear fascia is on and it’s a glorious improvement over the original fascia which had some minor heat warping and an inaccurate paint finish.

Fixed a few original fitment issues by opening up some of the fiberglass fascia support-to-pontoon holes with a file. One side was drilled a little too low by the factory causing the original fascia to get pulled down on the passenger side. If you have any fitment or alignment issues I’d start there as the original holes don’t have much wiggle room for adjustment.

I also had to adjust the lower driver bracket to catch the driver corner fascia stud. This was a real pain in the ass as pulling it in too far to catch the bracket would cause the bumper to bend out at the mid section whilst keeping it flush at the top. I managed to bend the bracket to avoid the stud being pulled in too far. A real time suck.

Overall I’m really happy with the fitment as it’s tricky to know how a NOS fascia is going to respond to your original panel alignment. Phew!

The front fascia goes on tonight.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_09.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_10.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_11.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_12.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

Looks good. nice n straight too...mines a lil warped..hehe

[DMC-81]

Wow, very nice!

[Jonathan]

I think DMCH made a change or two to their switch over the years. I have one built within the last 4 years that works perfectly.

Is this confirmed? I know the first ones made had issues with the auto-off feature, but didn't realize any other aspects were reworked. I recall those ones back in 2007 said to just not use the auto-off wiring until a fix is found. Never heard anything more about them getting fixed though. The one shown on the Houston parts page is new and improved then?

[Boxbot]

The pick-up on Friday. Wonderful work by Canepa in Scotts Valley. Just a shame about the meteor-sized dent in my bank balance.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-05_fascia_02.jpg

Are you willing to share what paint code and gloss you used? It looks great - maybe slightly lighter and flatter than the early OEM finish?

[DMC5180]

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_11.jpg

I think that’s the straightest rear facia I’ve ever seen. They almost always have a smile.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Col Bennett]

Are you willing to share what paint code and gloss you used? It looks great - maybe slightly lighter and flatter than the early OEM finish?

I used a custom formulation matched to the paint on an NOS fascia so sadly I don't have a code to share but I can confirm that we tried the DMCH paint code (PPG 33584) and it was pretty close to what we paint matched so I think it's a good one to use.


I think that’s the straightest rear facia I’ve ever seen. They almost always have a smile.

Thanks so much. It's an NOS rear fascia - refinished to match my front. You're seeing 0 days of any engine heat so everything is as good as it gets there. I'm pretty sure that in another 30-40 years it won't look quite so perfect, but it should hold up well with limited Sunday drives.

[OZ DMC]

And that’s one sexy ass! Best rear light assembly of any car ever imho.

My newly refinished NOS rear fascia is on and it’s a glorious improvement over the original fascia which had some minor heat warping and an inaccurate paint finish.

Fixed a few original fitment issues by opening up some of the fiberglass fascia support-to-pontoon holes with a file. One side was drilled a little too low by the factory causing the original fascia to get pulled down on the passenger side. If you have any fitment or alignment issues I’d start there as the original holes don’t have much wiggle room for adjustment.

I also had to adjust the lower driver bracket to catch the driver corner fascia stud. This was a real pain in the ass as pulling it in too far to catch the bracket would cause the bumper to bend out at the mid section whilst keeping it flush at the top. I managed to bend the bracket to avoid the stud being pulled in too far. A real time suck.

Overall I’m really happy with the fitment as it’s tricky to know how a NOS fascia is going to respond to your original panel alignment. Phew!

The front fascia goes on tonight.

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_09.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_10.jpg




http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_11.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-04-23_fascia_12.jpg


That looks fantastic, well done.

[OZ DMC]

Still fixing a coolant leak but i have a nasty habit cleaning and painting every part i take off. Even replaced 99% of all the M7 bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190420/884d0e3ef8bdb2c4d89aa1ac3f714f63.jpg

That is a great job. Do it once and do it right. you won't regret it.

[bfloyd]

New radiator from DPI and cooling fans and shroud from DeloreanGo finally installed. I also had to install a new fan fail relay socket, as my original one melted back in December. New fused Fan Fail Relay from Dave (Bitsynchmaster) installed as well.
I also added two micro LED's in the console shift plate that tell me when the cooling fans are actually running.

https://i.imgur.com/aHLDuH1l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BZDqGOSl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9MPnqJDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/O2F5P22l.jpg

[Boxbot]

I also added two micro LED's in the console shift plate that tell me when the cooling fans are actually running.

Where did you find them and how do you like them? I'm used to Audis, which use them to provide a small bit of ambient lighting around the cabin and I thought about installing some.

[bfloyd]

Where did you find them and how do you like them?

I found them on Amazon.com They are 5mm, and I ordered the plastic panel mount bushings to mount them in. I hot glued the LED's from the back side so they won't fall out. I haven't done much driving with them at night, so I can't tell you if they are distracting at night or not.

Here are the Amazon links.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAHYUBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX8JVG7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mr_maxime]

Isnt hot glue going to melt in the sun?

[bfloyd]

Isn't hot glue going to melt in the sun?

I actually used a glue product called E6000, but I didn't know if anyone else would know what that was, so I called it "hot glue".

[nkemp]

Originally Posted by bfloyd: I also added two micro LED's in the console shift plate that tell me when the cooling fans are actually running.

An LED in the circuit, presumably prior to the fans, will not indicate "the cooling fans are actually running". It will indicate that there is power at that point. It will indicate they should be running.

The original fan fail module attempted to determine if the fans were inoperable by monitoring current to the fans. If one or both fans failed, then the Fan Fail light would illuminate. I did a post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2182-Fan-Fail-Module-Circuit-amp-operation It is an interesting electro-mechanical device.

BTW ... a similar circuit was published by Popular Science or Mechanics (not DMC specific). 60's & Popular Science as I recall. It was a circuit/article to monitor tail lights.

[bfloyd]

An LED in the circuit, presumably prior to the fans, will not indicate "the cooling fans are actually running". It will indicate that there is power at that point. It will indicate they should be running.

Very true, and I completely understand that. While not absolutely perfect, it's better than what I had. The new fans are so quiet, you can barely hear them running with the engine on.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Originally Posted by bfloyd: [COLOR=#333333][I]The original fan fail module attempted to determine if the fans were inoperable by monitoring current to the fans. If one or both fans failed, then the Fan Fail light would illuminate. I did a post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2182-Fan-Fail-Module-Circuit-amp-operation It is an interesting electro-mechanical device.

That's interesting. I never saw that thread before.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14989-OEM-fan-fail-How-it-works

[mr_maxime]

I actually used a glue product called E6000, but I didn't know if anyone else would know what that was, so I called it "hot glue".

Let me know how that works out. Ive had stuff that with regular epoxy in my car before and the heat always made it gooey and fail. I'd love something that has a similar clear ith similar strength that won't fail in the sun.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You can get a higher temperature hot glue and that should work. I used it on my rear LED lights and so far has not failed.

Most Epoxy's will start to loose strength above 150 deg. F.

[Boxbot]

Headed back to the shop tomorrow for a laundry list of (hopefully) minor stuff.

In the meantime, I replaced my toasted vacuum label for a shiny new one.

5994659947

[AugustneverEnds]

Finally got the car on the road and driving for the first time in 2019! First fuel fill-up and went on a 25 mile cruise to celebrate vanquishing my electric and leaking fuel hose maladies. The forecast for the next week is looking really shabby so I really enjoyed last night's ride

[CFI]

Cleaned her up and went to Cars and Coffee with Riley88. People were excited to see TWO DeLoreans!60023

[CFI]

Went for a nice 100 mile drive today. Hit 33,333.3 miles just after filing up.60038

[CFI]

Installed DeLorean Go lighted window switches.

60053

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed DeLorean Go lighted window switches.

60053

Are those the same switches sold by DMCH? Are they LED or incandescent lights?

[CFI]

Are those the same switches sold by DMCH? Are they LED or incandescent lights?

These switches are slightly taller than the DMCH switches that were in my car. Once they are installed they look identical. I had no fitment issues. The light is LED and is on whenever the cars electrical system is on. Some of the light does spill out the top sides of the switch, illuminating the area around the switch. I don’t mind it, and it seems easy enough to fix if it really bothered me. I purchased the cheaper switches which require you to “activate” the light feature by completing the circuit between two of the spades prior to installation. The more expensive switches they sell have this modification completed already.

[Michael]

Installed the switch alignment plate from Deloreango. Nice product, even includes the proper drill bit. My switches were OK but not perfect...now they are perfect. Also got another trinket. I was going to put them in the door panels but at 5' the logo is just too big. I will probably opt for footwell lighting.

60061600626006360064

[Chris 16409]

Are those the same switches sold by DMCH? Are they LED or incandescent lights?

Hey Dave, are you still upgrading the incandescent switches for DMCH? I wonder if the supplier of the switch has converted to LEDs?

[CFI]

Are those the same switches sold by DMCH? Are they LED or incandescent lights?

Correction: the bulbs are incandescent. I drove around for a while today and the switches felt very warm.

[mburshtain]

After running multiple pressure tests, I can finally enjoy my new radiator and silicone hoses. The car is running cooler then ever. Holding pressure at 15 psi overnight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190516/f274687d6f31c0f56bd022c00a038fd6.jpg
600666006760068

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hey Dave, are you still upgrading the incandescent switches for DMCH? I wonder if the supplier of the switch has converted to LEDs?

Yes I'm still upgrading the DMCH switches.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Pollen has subsided so I washed the D today. Had to crank the engine quite a bit after the wash to get it started. Went for a 10 mile drive and all seems working and AC still working.

[bfloyd]

Not what I did today, but what I did this week... My wife and I took 3294 on a 563 mile round trip mini vacation. Since we own a drive-in movie theatre that will be open 7 nights a week starting next Friday, it was our only time to get away with each other until after summer. We live just outside of Nashville, TN and took off to the mountains of northern Georgia for a couple of days. New aluminum radiator from DPI and cooling fans from DeloreanGo performed flawlessly.

Here is where we stayed at the lodge at Amicalola Falls State Park
https://i.imgur.com/rVKLQNPl.jpg

Passed this sign along the side of the highway and could not NOT stop and take a picture with the car.
https://i.imgur.com/MaBjiaxl.jpg

This is why my wife picked the lodge as our place to stay. The sunsets on the back porch and veranda of the lodge were just like this each night we were there.
https://i.imgur.com/AxvyZOhl.jpg

Overall the car did great, and only scared me once as we were coming home on Interstate 24 climbing up Monteagle Mountain. Got stuck in a pack of semi trucks going about 30mph and the temperature gauge started climbing and we could get a whiff of antifreeze coming from somewhere. May have been shooting it out the overflow line behind us, but once we crossed over the mountain and headed back down the other side, everything cooled back down and never had another issue.

[Ron]

Yes, beautiful place!

From the pic, it looks like you may have been having dinner on the porch while we were munching on this guy near the horizon (~32m away).

60146

[Sirolf]

Finally got my new exhaust ready.. gives a whole new dimension to the car and the joy of drivinghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190519/bd5e0e005a6db382cd5d936789dcd531.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190519/1cbd22152ef8ec886de83bd6b78da8bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190519/0c3c0532c1883d5c3613db6aac4b40e0.jpg

[Michael]

Not what I did today, but what I did this week... My wife and I took 3294 on a 563 mile round trip mini vacation. Since we own a drive-in movie theatre that will be open 7 nights a week starting next Friday, it was our only time to get away with each other until after summer. We live just outside of Nashville, TN and took off to the mountains of northern Georgia for a couple of days. New aluminum radiator from DPI and cooling fans from DeloreanGo performed flawlessly.

Here is where we stayed at the lodge at Amicalola Falls State Park
https://i.imgur.com/rVKLQNPl.jpg

Passed this sign along the side of the highway and could not NOT stop and take a picture with the car.
https://i.imgur.com/MaBjiaxl.jpg

This is why my wife picked the lodge as our place to stay. The sunsets on the back porch and veranda of the lodge were just like this each night we were there.
https://i.imgur.com/AxvyZOhl.jpg

Overall the car did great, and only scared me once as we were coming home on Interstate 24 climbing up Monteagle Mountain. Got stuck in a pack of semi trucks going about 30mph and the temperature gauge started climbing and we could get a whiff of antifreeze coming from somewhere. May have been shooting it out the overflow line behind us, but once we crossed over the mountain and headed back down the other side, everything cooled back down and never had another issue.
We need more posts like this

[DMC-81]

We need more posts like this

+1. Also, that's breathtaking scenery. Wow.

[CFI]

Yesterday my son and I cleaned her up and took her to a car show. Two trophies!60147

[Riley88]

Yesterday my son and I cleaned her up and took her to a car show. Two trophies!60147

Very nice!

[eight8toy]

Installed new waterpump, waiting 24 hrs for sealant to cure on backing plate before coolant. All new hoses are in, working on DPI fuel lines today.

[Col Bennett]

Not what I did today, but what I did this week... My wife and I took 3294 on a 563 mile round trip mini vacation. Since we own a drive-in movie theatre that will be open 7 nights a week starting next Friday, it was our only time to get away with each other until after summer. We live just outside of Nashville, TN and took off to the mountains of northern Georgia for a couple of days. New aluminum radiator from DPI and cooling fans from DeloreanGo performed flawlessly.

Here is where we stayed at the lodge at Amicalola Falls State Park
https://i.imgur.com/rVKLQNPl.jpg

Passed this sign along the side of the highway and could not NOT stop and take a picture with the car.
https://i.imgur.com/MaBjiaxl.jpg

This is why my wife picked the lodge as our place to stay. The sunsets on the back porch and veranda of the lodge were just like this each night we were there.
https://i.imgur.com/AxvyZOhl.jpg

Overall the car did great, and only scared me once as we were coming home on Interstate 24 climbing up Monteagle Mountain. Got stuck in a pack of semi trucks going about 30mph and the temperature gauge started climbing and we could get a whiff of antifreeze coming from somewhere. May have been shooting it out the overflow line behind us, but once we crossed over the mountain and headed back down the other side, everything cooled back down and never had another issue.

Wonderful. This is what it's all about. Nothing beats a DeLorean road trip.

[Timeless]

It's an NOS rear fascia - refinished to match my front. You're seeing 0 days of any engine heat so everything is as good as it gets there. I'm pretty sure that in another 30-40 years it won't look quite so perfect, but it should hold up well with limited Sunday drives.
It does look AMAZING. I'm sure there's been talk here in the past about this but is there any solution to limit the heat in that area?

[Col Bennett]

It does look AMAZING. I'm sure there's been talk here in the past about this but is there any solution to limit the heat in that area?

Thanks!!!!

Other than the muffler heat shield (PN# 106931N) and the lower rear fascia support bracket (PN# 101764), I don't think there's much else you can do to limit heat against the fascia.

For the most part it's reasonably well protected. The top of the rear fascia with the light units and license plate bezel is mostly protected by the fiberglass support unit that it attaches to. The middle bumper is mostly protected by the impact absorber and muffler heat shield - and the lower area (with the 8 fascia holes) holes are protected by the fascia support bracket, which I imagine acts as a heat shield too.

Most of the heat is coming from the muffler and engine so if you're running a stock system it should be ok. Maybe some of the warping issues are coming from (hotter?) aftermarket mufflers and/or turbo systems that maybe generate more heat. My original fascia had minor warping which could have been caused by the previous owner's BAE Turbo system. Who knows, I'm really just guessing.

[Rich]

Replaced the car's original rock screen and performed a thorough cleaning and touch-up of the components behind it.

The first step was the careful removal of the old rock screen, easily done since the air dam and the flexible duct behind it have plenty of give.

The condenser-area work involved scrubbing the duct on the left and right sides in front of the A/C condenser so it looked new as well as detailing the condenser. The first part of that detailing involved the use of a small hook-pick to remove the small stones and debris randomly stuck between the foil fins and then straightening a few bent fins. Next came a quick brush-down of the front of the condenser with soapy water followed by a rinse. After it dried I brushed flat black paint onto a half-dozen or so small spots on the condenser where the OE paint had chipped off of the condenser tubing or fins.

The replacement rock screen topped off the job. The car looks new again in that area.

[Parzival]

Pulled the intake all back off again to install a new water pump, also changing out the spark plug wires and rotor. This is my second time into the valley, and this time I'm all alone. Of course I can call DMC-81 A.K.A. Dana for a pep talk if I need to ;)
New water pump is in, and tomorrow will start with a pressure test, and re assembly of the intake.
And to think, before I bought this car, the most mechanical work I'd ever done was change oil!

[Sirolf]

Went ahead and made sure all my fuel pressures where ok.
Found that my primary is spot on but my control pressure is to high. 65psi instead of 42-45

So took of the WUR and drill a hole in the brass plug in the backside to expose the allen screw to adjust control pressure.

Everything back to recommended. Idles a lot smoother now.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190526/53f6e736753088d9d919c5a4750b89ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190526/6fcc1b115e6096abec4658d1db8a0b49.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190526/ac4e949eb6c1d0249daba90a58378e82.jpg

[FABombjoy]

So took of the WUR and drill a hole in the brass plug in the backside to expose the allen screw to adjust control pressure.
Sure beats buying a refurbished WUR :) Don't forget to plug the hole or you'll go lean on throttle during warmup.

[Sirolf]

Sure beats buying a refurbished WUR :) Don't forget to plug the hole or you'll go lean on throttle during warmup.I making a closing plate that sits between the WUR and valve cover out of aluminium to transfer the engine heat and closing the hole.

I am not gonna make a mess with RTV and this way makes future adjustments easier.

[jackb]

I had the day off of work, so I took mine out for a little drive to a few streets I've been meaning to get pictures at.
All in Las Vegas. For those in the city, the locations are: Delorean Dr is by Craig/5th, Delorean Cir is near Craig/Rainbow, and Lyon Estates is at Tenaya/Deer Springs.

Delorean Drive has several other car names roads in the neighborhood, like Testarossa. It also intersects with Brickland Ct, which I'm convinced the namer was thinking of the Bricklin, but just got it wrong.

There also used to be an auto repair shop called European Motor Center and the sign in front said EMC in the same font at the DMC logo; it and a very strong resemblance. I say used to because when I went by there to get a picture, it had been renamed and the sign changed. Now it is just called European Motors, and the text is in a regular font. Location was Spring Mountain/Valley View.

[Riley88]

Took my rear wheels off today to tight the screw that holds the parking brake because my parking brake barely works, and turns out each side is missing a pad. So the car has been with 1 pad on each side for who knows how long. Put them on order, explains that problem bwuahaha

[mr_maxime]

Disconnected the AC compressor (its available for purchase) and heater core. Removed the brake and clutch master cylinders. Getting ready to separate the frame and body.

[DMC5180]

Well, this past April marked a major Milestone in my Delorean Ownership.
25 years!!!! the Silver Stainless Anniversary. [emoji6] In celebration of that momentous occasion, last Fall I decided it was finally time for some long overdue TLC work to be done at DMCMW over the winter. It was the first time I’ve ever let anyone else work on it. Today was pickup day. It got a new lease on life. It had been plagued with a bad driver side head gasket for years, it seeped on the outer edge. So knowing It needed new Head gaskets, I opted to go the Stage ll route.

On the more funny(Embarrassing) side. When I went to back out of the shop, I stepped on the brake pedal and commenced to grind the gears. It seems My left foot forgot there was a clutch pedal [emoji2957] after 6 months.



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[DMC-81]

Well, this past April marked a major Milestone in my Delorean Ownership.
25 years!!!! the Silver Stainless Anniversary. [emoji6] In celebration of that momentous occasion, last Fall I decided it was finally time for some long overdue TLC work to be done at DMCMW over the winter. It was the first time I’ve ever let anyone else work on it. Today was pickup day. It got a new lease on life. It had been plagued with a bad driver side head gasket for years, it seeped on the outer edge. So knowing It needed new Head gaskets, I opted to go the Stage ll route.

On the more funny(Embarrassing) side. When I went to back out of the shop, I stepped on the brake pedal and commenced to grind the gears. It seems My left foot forgot there was a clutch pedal [emoji2957] after 6 months.

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Congratulations on 25 years and the Stage 2! Very cool.

[DMC5180]

Congratulations on 25 years and the Stage 2! Very cool.

Thanks, Dana! [emoji106]


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[Mark D]

Well, this past April marked a major Milestone in my Delorean Ownership.
25 years!!!! the Silver Stainless Anniversary. [emoji6] In celebration of that momentous occasion, last Fall I decided it was finally time for some long overdue TLC work to be done at DMCMW over the winter. It was the first time I’ve ever let anyone else work on it. Today was pickup day. It got a new lease on life. It had been plagued with a bad driver side head gasket for years, it seeped on the outer edge. So knowing It needed new Head gaskets, I opted to go the Stage ll route.

On the more funny(Embarrassing) side. When I went to back out of the shop, I stepped on the brake pedal and commenced to grind the gears. It seems My left foot forgot there was a clutch pedal [emoji2957] after 6 months.



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Congrats Dennis! 25 years is quite an accomplishment. That's also great about the stage II upgrade, if there is anyone I'd trust working on my car it's the fine crew over at DMCMW. I'm actually heading there tomorrow to have my A/C recharged. If I wasn't on such a time crunch I'd try to stop by when I'm passing through. I can't make the open house this year, but sometime this summer it would be great to get some WI DeLorean owners together. There are a few other local guys that are trying to put something together... We're only about an hour north of you.

[ritztoys]

Today I took my car off the winter hibernation jacks. As during my pre-season checks I found 1/2 doz. sidewall cracks in both my rear tires. :jawdrop:

My inner voice said, "we're not running on those tires this year!" So a friend of mine from Pep Boys found me a set of 'Futura' tires that fit great & drive well. ( I love wearing-off those little sprues from new tire manufacture)

Anyway car is running great, could use one can of R12, so compressor doesn't cycle too much, otherwise all is good.

Feels great driving my beauty again, couldn't help but notice all those people "breaking their necks" to look at my car. lol!

[Riley88]

Today I took my car off the winter hibernation jacks. As during my pre-season checks I found 1/2 doz. sidewall cracks in both my rear tires. :jawdrop:

My inner voice said, "we're not running on those tires this year!" So a friend of mine from Pep Boys found me a set of 'Futura' tires that fit great & drive well. ( I love wearing-off those little sprues from new tire manufacture)

Anyway car is running great, could use one can of R12, so compressor doesn't cycle too much, otherwise all is good.

Feels great driving my beauty again, couldn't help but notice all those people "breaking their necks" to look at my car. lol! Im up here in Bloomington for work this week and am SOOOO jealous of how nice the roads are here. Wish Virginia had good roads, they work on them 24/7 but they are trash. half the time i cant tell if my delorean is falling apart or its the roads, then i get in my normal car and am like yeah...roads

[ritztoys]

Im up here in Bloomington for work this week and am SOOOO jealous of how nice the roads are here, like yeah...roads

Enjoy your visit and the roads there. We have two seasons here...Winter & Construction! When the ground quits freezing, the 'Orange Barrels' show up and the city and state feverishly try to make the roads better until Winter arrives again.

I seek out less traveled roads that are in pretty good shape, so I don't look like a drunk driver avoiding chuckholes!

[iflights]

Spent this weekend BKF'ing the car as prep for a car show next weekend. Did the car 2 times. 9 microfiber cloths later, I'm done. If I did it a 3rd time I probably still could have pulled more ick out of the grain, but stopped at 2. I think from now on, I'm going to maintain by using the C.Bennett's technique of Griot's Oil and Grease remover and spray bottle of dish washing soap.

[Patrick C]

Did some cleanup to my newly installed EFI system and refurbished the intake and throttle assembly.

https://i.ibb.co/zh6CWYy/CC2-B6070-6-B62-403-A-AD57-73-FDDB650-F1-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/TBWJDSV)
https://i.ibb.co/GcJp1Qg/DEBFA0-B8-0-C1-E-48-FA-B5-EB-72564-C8-D2180.jpg (https://ibb.co/vZBqr42)
https://i.ibb.co/NtLgTNr/6-A9-FFFFC-9-C27-4-B03-9546-528478-ADC412.jpg (https://ibb.co/n6DqP1B)
https://i.ibb.co/KjhP55V/8-AD10383-94-D2-495-C-8-B26-7-E2-E66-D06-C06.jpg (https://ibb.co/xSLk22z)
https://i.ibb.co/wS90pQC/F1-D72085-1724-4-C22-9061-783141-A9-FBC0.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZBnLcgK)

[Farrar]

The odometer turned over 80,000 miles on the way to work this morning. :driving1:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took the D to the grocery store just now. The engine is skipping mostly when the engine is loaded during acceleration. It did it cold and hot so I suspect it's a problem in ignition. I checked the dwell anyway because I did try another RPM relay in my car a few days ago. The dwell is working fine. I've never had a skipping problem with my D as long as I've owned it. Maybe a critter chewed up some wiring. Will work on it soon.

[Michael]

Did some cleanup to my newly installed EFI system and refurbished the intake and throttle assembly.

https://i.ibb.co/zh6CWYy/CC2-B6070-6-B62-403-A-AD57-73-FDDB650-F1-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/TBWJDSV)
https://i.ibb.co/GcJp1Qg/DEBFA0-B8-0-C1-E-48-FA-B5-EB-72564-C8-D2180.jpg (https://ibb.co/vZBqr42)
https://i.ibb.co/NtLgTNr/6-A9-FFFFC-9-C27-4-B03-9546-528478-ADC412.jpg (https://ibb.co/n6DqP1B)
https://i.ibb.co/KjhP55V/8-AD10383-94-D2-495-C-8-B26-7-E2-E66-D06-C06.jpg (https://ibb.co/xSLk22z)
https://i.ibb.co/wS90pQC/F1-D72085-1724-4-C22-9061-783141-A9-FBC0.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZBnLcgK)

Beautiful!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took the D to the grocery store just now. The engine is skipping mostly when the engine is loaded during acceleration. It did it cold and hot so I suspect it's a problem in ignition. I checked the dwell anyway because I did try another RPM relay in my car a few days ago. The dwell is working fine. I've never had a skipping problem with my D as long as I've owned it. Maybe a critter chewed up some wiring. Will work on it soon.

Well today I checked the fuel pump current at 6.3 amps. engine off so that looks fine. Since I was in the washer bottle area I though maybe a connector for the fuel pump wire got moved.

I then put a spare ignition ECU replacing the bolted one and test drove at no change (still skipping under load).

I then pulled the plugs and gaped them at less than 0.030" but more than 0.025". I had them gaped at almost 0.040". That really helped with almost no skip under load but I still think really heavy load it may still have an occasional skip. So it looks like I need to replace the distributor cap and rotor next.:mecry:

Any other ideas before I order a new cap and rotor?

[DMC5180]

Well today I checked the fuel pump current at 6.3 amps. engine off so that looks fine. Since I was in the washer bottle area I though maybe a connector for the fuel pump wire got moved.

I then put a spare ignition ECU replacing the bolted one and test drove at no change (still skipping under load).

I then pulled the plugs and gaped them at less than 0.030" but more than 0.025". I had them gaped at almost 0.040". That really helped with almost no skip under load but I still think really heavy load it may still have an occasional skip. So it looks like I need to replace the distributor cap and rotor next.:mecry:

Any other ideas before I order a new cap and rotor?

This definitely, appears to be symptomatic of worn spark plugs. Are you running the stock Coil? How was the weather at the time. Very high humidity/wet conditions will cause arc jumping if the wires or cap/rotor are breaking down with age. Fresh plugs/wires/cap & rotor should clear things up so long as the fuel mixture isn’t running lean.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This definitely, appears to be symptomatic of worn spark plugs. Are you running the stock Coil? How was the weather at the time. Very high humidity/wet conditions will cause arc jumping if the wires or cap/rotor are breaking down with age. Fresh plugs/wires/cap & rotor should clear things up so long as the fuel mixture isn’t running lean.

Agree. Since reducing the high voltage by reducing the gap helped I'm thinking it may be a cross fire. I'm not running a stock coil. I'm running a GM ignition module and a 1.5 ohm coil. I will try another coil I have since it's an easy thing to change.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Agree. Since reducing the high voltage by reducing the gap helped I'm thinking it may be a cross fire. I'm not running a stock coil. I'm running a GM ignition module and a 1.5 ohm coil. I will try another coil I have since it's an easy thing to change.

Replaced the coil and that did not fix it. So going to order a new cap and rotor.

[iflights]

Attended a car show on Father's day. Car sat next to a couple of Lotus Esprits. The exhibition was design focused, and the Red Esprit walked away with a Design of Distinction award.

However, as all of you know, when you've got a DeLorean on display, you certainly get a large share of people wanting to see it and ignoring the others.

My wife loved being at the car show and now wants to do more. Now if only I could get her to help wipe down the car after a rain!
604196042060421

[Citizen]

[snip] However, as all of you know, when you've got a DeLorean on display, you certainly get a large share of people wanting to see it and ignoring the others. [snip]

The Corvette guys hate it when a DeLorean shows up. I once got dagger looks from those guys when a gaggle of their wives came over to talk to me.

OK OK already, they actually came over to look at my car, rather than talk to me. : )

Thomas

...

[iflights]

The Corvette guys hate it when a DeLorean shows up. I once got dagger looks from those guys when a gaggle of their wives came over to talk to me.

OK OK already, they actually came over to look at my car, rather than talk to me. : )

Thomas

...

The owner of the red Esprit wouldn't even give me the time of day. But I got to know the owner of the grey Esprit well, and we're going to meet up at the Rolling Sculpture show in Ann Arbor in July.

[Sirolf]

New crankseal and gasket. Also a new clutch just to be safe
And gave the UN1 a good cleaninghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190617/07d64a0c70a0c9e171a75858ffb1154f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190617/3f763812399142614b7e41af1daf385d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190617/ffae2b17105f5427bb44a8da25d73b80.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190617/b77af2998d1845dd9a668920022313b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190617/6eb47b8986abd89a99222232f129b16c.jpg

[Timeless]

Attended a car show on Father's day. Car sat next to a couple of Lotus Esprits. The exhibition was design focused, and the Red Esprit walked away with a Design of Distinction award.

However, as all of you know, when you've got a DeLorean on display, you certainly get a large share of people wanting to see it and ignoring the others.

My wife loved being at the car show and now wants to do more. Now if only I could get her to help wipe down the car after a rain!
604196042060421
Eyes on Design. I have had cars in that show multiple years. Always a fantastic event!

[Patrick C]

Installed a DPI throttle shield that I coated and put an emblem on. It hides the throttle position sensor nicely. Also installed a stainless DeLoreanGo header bottle cap.

[opethmike]

I ate Patrick's car.

[Silverbullet]

I ate Patrick's car.

Did it taste like Chicken?

[AirmanPika]

Nothing...it got to the edge of my diveway and then I discovered Hervey screwed me.

[Mark D]

Installed a DPI throttle shield that I coated and put an emblem on. It hides the throttle position sensor nicely. Also installed a stainless DeLoreanGo header bottle cap.

That looks really nice. :thumbup:

Is that wrinkle finish paint on the throttle shield?

[hippieman9]

Nothing...it got to the edge of my diveway and then I discovered Hervey screwed me.

How so?

[hippieman9]

Installed a set of convex heated mirrors from DeLoreana.com, pretty sweet.

[CriticalB]

Replaced the coil and that did not fix it. So going to order a new cap and rotor.

I went through all these same steps once and ultimately found a hairline crack in the ceramic of one of my plugs. By hairline I mean I never would have spotted it if I hadn’t been looking for it specifically. I had Ruled them out by checking gap and testing spark, but a buddy recommended I try new plugs anyway and it eliminated the skip. Later I found a YouTube video where they demonstrated the effects of a cracked plug under load. It fired fine at idle, but the spark became erratic as pressure increased. I went back and examined the old plugs and found a crack. I don’t know if over-tourqued it, or maybe it jumped off a counter during some work I’d done the prior month, but I hate to think how Long that issue would have gone on if I hadn’t just tried new plugs out of desperation. On the bright side, by the time I figured it out, the rest of my ignition system was in tip-top shape - new coil, rotor, cap, and wires.

https://youtu.be/DMIBHOrqQU4

[Bitsyncmaster]

I went through all these same steps once and ultimately found a hairline crack in the ceramic of one of my plugs. By hairline I mean I never would have spotted it if I hadn’t been looking for it specifically. I had Ruled them out by checking gap and testing spark, but a buddy recommended I try new plugs anyway and it eliminated the skip. Later I found a YouTube video where they demonstrated the effects of a cracked plug under load. It fired fine at idle, but the spark became erratic as pressure increased. I went back and examined the old plugs and found a crack. I don’t know if over-tourqued it, or maybe it jumped off a counter during some work I’d done the prior month, but I hate to think how Long that issue would have gone on if I hadn’t just tried new plugs out of desperation. On the bright side, by the time I figured it out, the rest of my ignition system was in tip-top shape - new coil, rotor, cap, and wires.

https://youtu.be/DMIBHOrqQU4

Thanks for that tip. I do have an extra set of plugs but may wait till the rotor and cap get replaced. I've never replaced the rotor and cap so it may be original.

[Patrick C]

That looks really nice. :thumbup:

Is that wrinkle finish paint on the throttle shield?

Thanks! I used truck bed lining on the throttle shield, the underside of the engine cover, and on the coil cover.

[ritztoys]

Today I removed the old window motor/regulator (drivers side) and installed a new one. It took three tries to get this assembly inside the door, but I didn't get cut. Now I enjoy the window going down again. :yesss:

Honestly I can't remember when this failed as I 'locked' the window in the up position until I found a regulator! (Thanks to a forum member that sold me his extra) :thankyou:

[Michael]

Installed a DPI throttle shield that I coated and put an emblem on. It hides the throttle position sensor nicely. Also installed a stainless DeLoreanGo header bottle cap.

I like that. Not over the top but very subtle and neat.

[FlyinHokie]

Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.

[81dmc]

but I didn't get cut.

Wish I could say this. I must of looked like some sort of emo after I worked in the doors for the first time...

[Timeless]

Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.
I miss going to those meets since I moved to Florida. Always nice.

[iflights]

Took #2499 to Lingenfelter's Cars & Coffee this morning. Great event and the highlight was meeting up with #4665 there too.

Great to meet yet another owner who lives close. #2499 has a beautiful DPI installed EFI system and exhaust. I thought it was a very well integrated and elegant installation.

[ritztoys]

Major accomplishment yesterday.....re-secured my roof box! :biggrin: While putting everything back together, I needed to re-adjust door torque bars too.

My passenger door would bounce(spring too tight) and drivers door wouldn't get to the full open without a little help, now doors 'sag' properly (without lift pistons).

The best part is I received two new P.J. Grady door lift pistons today, it's nice to see everything working properly. :woot:

Now to adjust striker pins for door adjustment/alignment.

[mark w]

Major accomplishment yesterday.....re-secured my roof box! :biggrin: While putting everything back together, I needed to re-adjust door torque bars too.

My passenger door would bounce(spring too tight) and drivers door wouldn't get to the full open without a little help, now doors 'sag' properly (without lift pistons).

The best part is I received two new P.J. Grady door lift pistons today, it's nice to see everything working properly. :woot:

Now to adjust striker pins for door adjustment/alignment.

what procedure did you follow to do this?

[ritztoys]

what procedure did you follow to do this?

Well...there are two ways to repair/fix this common problem we will all face in our ownership of the D.

My roof-box was lifting from the fiberglass tub body about 1/4-5/16" from the factory glue down position, beginning to press against the 'T' panel.

One way to repair is to use bolts, washers, nuts installed in a 'vertical position' through the fiberglass body, tying the roof box back down. In order to do this requires removing the header board with the attached headliner material and removing the inner door seal, which is on top of the headliner on the sides. This wasn't a choice I wanted to make as my headliner is practically perfect and I didn't want to disturb an otherwise perfect interior!

So...choice #2, is to install sheet metal screws in a 'horizontal position' either side of the torque bar retaining plates. Both procedures require you to release the tension on the torque bars and remove with the hardware. When you remove the bars, be sure to have a helper/friend support and carefully lower each door.

That's 70# of door, be very careful!!

Now the next part requires pushing the roof box back down, now that the twisting tension has been removed.

A forum member suggested using the garage ceiling/rafters and using a 2x4 between the rafters and roof box metal and deflating the rear tires. Now you can determined the length of the 2x4 to press against the box. Begin airing the tires back up while watching the roof box to return to it's original position. I did one side at a time and used #12x1" sheet metal screws either side of the retaining plate, fiberglass 'feels like' about 1/4 to 3/8" thick in these areas.

I was able to get my roof box back down to with-in less than 1/16" of original position, extremely happy with the results!

The best part I didn't have to disturb my headliner.

When installing the retaining plates there was just enough movement so I could adjust my torque bars away from the hinges, while adjusting the door tension.
(another bonus to this job)

[ritztoys]

I've had another problem(not me, my car) that I only had blower motor switch position #1, intermittent #2, NO #3, & #4. I checked fuse,OK...then I swapped relays, same problem again on lack of fan speed.

I then decided to use a mirror with various tools and remove the resistor bridge, attached to the blower motor case.

Well wouldn't you know it Mr. Corrosion strikes again....one bridge was rusted through(#3) and #2 wasn't too good either. So a visit to the local auto parts store and got a new one.

Now I can hear the relays "click" on fans speeds #3, #4. (don't remember hearing either one)

So.....all is good, another issue/project finished. :yesss:

[AirmanPika]

Old nasty transmission is mounted again. Hopefully it works better with the new clutch slave (since I had no idea the old one was bad before my aborted rebuilt transmission install hell).

I will thank all who recommended the cut off head bolts as a guide. Took minutes again to get it slotted in.

[DMC-81]

Old nasty transmission is mounted again. Hopefully it works better with the new clutch slave (since I had no idea the old one was bad before my aborted rebuilt transmission install hell).

I will thank all who recommended the cut off head bolts as a guide. Took minutes again to get it slotted in.

Great job. Other than the clutch slave, were there other issues with your original gearbox to make you opt for a rebuilt unit?

[mark w]

Working on my engine refresh

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/el0uT2qlLSCBhmfP7PWU_264wnPl9PBQWy-N5cNOIhQpv02g41MXahTzm35WuZSOTZw_N2G5GZT1X4_5Z5YT2 tgIk5Ab8qrOWk5FiwuGf7ypZKu0qLxV3zkspkGdMLuXK4KFFPF dThLa44Qn_i5Vc9sctT3F6yVEx5eNCdBH1o3YQzYXBe7c8AP8E l4LXQK4C8_JA8Jw7BlqjIXXyhjlvbvstbT9dnOt9Jk-FZgCZO3n97E0ckU1eK5hnPartO5AZ0NeQ_QlRnKux5xgkKSe2U 5rdmut5kIbROzF1DiGvIxW8ppd2QVXI9GtPraYxbUGH0O4NX-1D2Djm_xLyhm30aR3XjkglnuXuBtrQPNFjBDz7GeayOjf1c9-mZHgVMP_njSV679ZqVLyZXMfhwPOug2aa89fjLaJaoS_fWaATm _RJ3Er0VgcAL4YefibU46wZePd5g-ARhda32EbPPXWJkSDoHTMiB4P25BZ4bzx1L2WRI4RMzcx5V57N tjLB4LNrulq2pYWpaLJ1Xvr4Isag2F9wTXg2iKh9psjYI5PYs_ RaczvXfZYDzfjK-JIzvEO4y0qpYpuIP7VQiaYcHXxooaeqaqP3InOge-tPzP61ckY1iUQ3y49c1ZVc0XoGfvLeV3v3L_pVfoMf7FBxHl6a QDRwtjBdnGR=w1081-h608-no

[CFI]

So...choice #2, is to install sheet metal screws in a 'horizontal position' either side of the torque bar retaining plates.

I’ve never heard of this option. Sounds like a great idea. Where did you find this?

[SS Spoiler]

Entered the local fourth of July parade in Kalispell,
Montana. Did our one trick pony show by closing the
doors and opening them every half block. Lots of 88
MPH, flux capacitor and "hey Marty" yelling. Doing our
bit to spread "the gospel of John" to the masses.
Great fun.....



not so lonely guy in Montana......

[mr_maxime]

Got my new motor

https://i.imgur.com/uO8VKtN.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/voMJ5UT.jpg?1

Getting it out of the car was a pain in the ass. Couldnt even use the hoist

[AirmanPika]

Now that the car is on the road again...hard wired the digital GPS speedometer into the unused 12v power lead under the shifter (that would be used for the automatic shifter display lamp otherwise). My speedo is flaky so this does nicely.

60562

[AirmanPika]

Now that the car is on the road again...hard wired the digital GPS speedometer into the unused 12v power lead under the shifter (that would be used for the automatic shifter display lamp otherwise). My speedo is flaky so this does nicely.


Better pic...because I hated the last one and can't edit the post anymore...

http://reimuchan.com/delorean/88speedo2.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

I should one of them gps things (for the one day when I might actually get to drive mine)..just sure about trusting them fancy things..hehe.

[Andrew]

Within the past week I got 5052's door latches perfectly adjusted and got the central locking system fully functional for the first time in 5 years of ownership. That accomplishment motivated me to get 4194's central locking system working for the first time in my 21 years of ownership! 4194 passenger door still needs s bit of fine tuning and both cars lock modules will be upgraded in the near future.

I also addressed / resolved an issue with 5052's mode switch which was causing the interior fan to continue running even when the mode switch was in the "off" position.

[Andrew]

Entered the local fourth of July parade in Kalispell,
Montana. Did our one trick pony show by closing the
doors and opening them every half block. Lots of 88
MPH, flux capacitor and "hey Marty" yelling. Doing our
bit to spread "the gospel of John" to the masses.
Great fun.....



not so lonely guy in Montana......

How many DeLorean owners are in Montana?

[SS Spoiler]

one in Kalispell and Lakeside, two in Missoula, five
in Billings and rumors of one in Bigfork......




not so lonely guy in Montana....

[jackb]

Better pic...because I hated the last one and can't edit the post anymore...

http://reimuchan.com/delorean/88speedo2.jpg

What radio head unit is that?

[ritztoys]

I’ve never heard of this option. Sounds like a great idea. Where did you find this?

Being retired, I'm always searching the internet for any issues my car 'could have' or 'will have', as I love driving my car and don't like getting stuck away from home.

Been there, done that!!

TBH I don't remember where I found this idea, could have been on the Deloreango club website(gotta join to see forum posts) or from the old talk site.

Fairly easy job that could take approx. 2-4 hrs. , you will need help, take your time......

Found it YMMV......https://dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm

[AirmanPika]

What radio head unit is that?

It's a McIntosh MX406

https://www.classicdriver.com/sites/default/files/styles/full_width_slider/public/import/articlesv2/images/_de/7400/McIntosh_MX404_01pop.jpg

[Stainless]

It's a McIntosh MX406

https://www.classicdriver.com/sites/default/files/styles/full_width_slider/public/import/articlesv2/images/_de/7400/McIntosh_MX404_01pop.jpg

Wow. I just looked up prices for that unit and I had to pick my jaw up from the floor. Too rich for my blood. Love the look, though.

[Riley88]

ok that McIntosh mx406 is sexy af DAMN SON

[CFI]

Being retired, I'm always searching the internet for any issues my car 'could have' or 'will have', as I love driving my car and don't like getting stuck away from home.

Been there, done that!!

TBH I don't remember where I found this idea, could have been on the Deloreango club website(gotta join to see forum posts) or from the old talk site.

Fairly easy job that could take approx. 2-4 hrs. , you will need help, take your time......

Found it YMMV......https://dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm

Thank you.

[jackb]

Wow. I just looked up prices for that unit and I had to pick my jaw up from the floor. Too rich for my blood. Love the look, though.

Holy crap. Looks like my search will continue....
That's exactly the type of looks I'm searching for though.

[Bongiovi]

It's a McIntosh MX406

https://www.classicdriver.com/sites/default/files/styles/full_width_slider/public/import/articlesv2/images/_de/7400/McIntosh_MX404_01pop.jpg

I was looking at getting this headunit. Any thoughts on it? It says that it has an AUX input so is that so and do you find that works well? What speakers are you running too? Sorry for the bombardment of questions but hoping to get my sound system a little more up to snuff. Thanks!

[Ron]

Not familiar with it or its specs, but you might want something with bluetooth considering all of the new gadgets they can pair with (USB stored song lists, hands free phone, car locator, etc. EG HERE (https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Sumind-Hands-Free/dp/B0756WZ2V3/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8SAR5XFZRH25GCZSRD8N))

[AirmanPika]

Ron is right. You gotta keep connectivity in consideration.

For me my older Pioneer DEH-P7000BT was having issues linking with newer devices (like my iPhone X) so I decided to go with a more analog solution. I already had the McIntosh unit and had previously installed a McIntosh amp in the car years earlier. I ran a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable to the aux inputs and got a Belkin Audio + Charging lightning adapter for the phone. I just put it in car mode and I'm set. I have all the goodies of a modern car entertainment center with a quality audio system. You can never really fix the DeLorean's acoustics tho. I have some 3.5" Infinity Kappa speakers up front and some Pioneer 4x6" P462 rears (chose to stick with hidden vs retrofitted 6x9s). To make up for the bass I also installed a small 8" sub and amp in the storage compartment behind the seat. It's all better than stock...but probably isn't spectacular consider how much noise the car makes when running.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My DeLoreango order got lost in the mail. My neighborhood has had problems with missing packages when a hold mail is requested which I did two weeks ago. So I got a new rotor from Ebay and new cap from DMCH. Funny my Ebay rotor is an OEM one so I guess the seller mistakenly shipped it saying it was a GB332 part.

So it looks like my PO did replace the rotor since the date code on it was "95". No burning signs and the resistor read 5 Kohms like the new one. So I don't think the rotor was the cause of my skipping. Will look over the old cap shortly but a quick look inside had no carbon tracking going on.

OEM part number is 1234332177

Edit:
Looks like the cap has little tiny water droplets near each terminal. Don't see any tracking so this probably was not the problem. Wonder how the cap keeps dry from condensation.

OEM part number of cap is 1235522210

[Bitsyncmaster]

Boy that new distributor cap is really tight. Took a lot of pressure to get it to seat. Good thing I pulled the mixture unit to install it.

[Chris 16409]

Dave, the "93" rotor says Germany and the "95" rotor does not which means it was most likely made in Spain. Which one is the one you just got. Also, you can often Find NOS caps on ebay. I've been stockpiling a bunch of them because Bosch is no longer making them, and I don't trust the repercussions. The cap number is 1235522210

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, the "93" rotor says Germany and the "95" rotor does not which means it was most likely made in Spain. Which one is the one you just got. Also, you can often Find NOS caps on ebay. I've been stockpiling a bunch of them because Bosch is no longer making them, and I don't trust the repercussions. The cap number is 1235522210

The 93 is the new one I just got. The 95 was the one that was in my car.

The DMC cap has no part numbers. It does have the cylinder number cast into the plastic.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well still have the engine skip under load. I will install new plugs gaped to stock after the engine cools down.

[Spittybug]

Well still have the engine skip under load. I will install new plugs gaped to stock after the engine cools down.

I'm betting hairline crack in the plug porcelain......

[AirmanPika]

Decided to finally install one of the Autozone Saturn/GM alternators that are recommended by folks here. Took me a sec to figure out how to install it thanks to the weird tensioner bracket setup used by the old AC Delco (I think) alternator which was gigantic. Did not realize the tensioner originally mounted to the engine itself thanks to this. Took the liberty of installing new belts too while I was at it since the old ones were about 10 years old. I have to thank Matt for the stainless mounting bracket and tensioner. They went in perfectly and made installation of the new alternator a breeze.

http://reimuchan.com/delorean/alternator.jpg

Now I need to deal with a new issue I discovered. It appears the seal on the radiator cap is compromised and starts leaking once the engine temp gets to around 200F. It seems to stay sealed if the temp is kept lower (aka keeping the fans running or just driving the car). It is mostly an idle engine issue when not running the fans until they auto kick on. Has anyone ever really attempted to fix this? I know DMCH says not to bother as it will likely shatter the radiator. If a new radiator is in order I'll likely do that once I get it to Cali.

[Rich]

Now I need to deal with a new issue I discovered. It appears the seal on the radiator cap is compromised and starts leaking once the engine temp gets to around 200F. It seems to stay sealed if the temp is kept lower (aka keeping the fans running or just driving the car). It is mostly an idle engine issue when not running the fans until they auto kick on. Has anyone ever really attempted to fix this? I know DMCH says not to bother as it will likely shatter the radiator. If a new radiator is in order I'll likely do that once I get it to Cali.

I think you're reporting failure of the actual radiator cap on the OE-style radiator and not on the "radiator" cap on the header bottle.

No, I have no experience fixing it. A new radiator sounds like the way to go if the current one fails. Best case: you can try replacing just that (small-size) cap after you relocate and hope to avoid the cost/trouble of replacing the radiator.

Til then you probably know you can just drive it with the A/C engaged to keep the rad fans running at all times, minimizing the coolant temps. And you'll frequently check the coolant level until your system is solid again.

[Chris 16409]

Decided to finally install one of the Autozone Saturn/GM alternators that are recommended by folks here. Took me a sec to figure out how to install it thanks to the weird tensioner bracket setup used by the old AC Delco (I think) alternator which was gigantic. Did not realize the tensioner originally mounted to the engine itself thanks to this. Took the liberty of installing new belts too while I was at it since the old ones were about 10 years old. I have to thank Matt for the stainless mounting bracket and tensioner. They went in perfectly and made installation of the new alternator a breeze.

Let us know how the alternator holds up. It says "re-manufactured in Mexico" that sounds better than China.

[AirmanPika]

Yea its the one on the radiator itself so I intend to do exactly what you mentioned. And yea, even though it is remanufactured it still has the lifetime warranty so I don't mind. I am somewhat curious myself. I'm probably going to take the car for a drive in the mountains this weekend to see how it holds up. If it can handle that slog then it should be good to go.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm betting hairline crack in the plug porcelain......

I think the new plugs still have a skip. I think it's better now because when the engine was cold it seemed better but that could be the gap on the new plugs is 0.025". All the old plugs looked the same as far as color of the porcelain at the plug gap.

Now I'm wondering if it is ignition problems. Only thing not changed are the plug wires and the distributor pick up coil.

Also my throttle is sticking now at 2000 RPM unless I punch it. Of course no sticking with the engine off.

[Rich]

The left inboard brake lamp failed the a self-check this today. It was OK as recently as 4 wks ago.
The lamp itself checked out fine.

Traced it to an iffy ground connection between that lamp's socket and either of the ground traces on the (OE) board it's riveted to.

A dab of solder made it solid again. Will keep up with the frequent lighting safety checks.

I know, someday I need to put new boards in...

[Chris 16409]

I think the new plugs still have a skip. I think it's better now because when the engine was cold it seemed better but that could be the gap on the new plugs is 0.025". All the old plugs looked the same as far as color of the porcelain at the plug gap.

Now I'm wondering if it is ignition problems. Only thing not changed are the plug wires and the distributor pick up coil.

Also my throttle is sticking now at 2000 RPM unless I punch it. Of course no sticking with the engine off.

Dave, are you using the Bosch Silver HR6DS plugs? Are you running the OE Bougicord wires or something different?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, are you using the Bosch Silver HR6DS plugs? Are you running the OE Bougicord wires or something different?

Yes using HR6DS plugs. Wires are from a vendor but don't remember who since they are about 10 years old.

[AirmanPika]

Well I took the car out on a 100 mile run through the mountains today. It performed fine aside from the stop and go traffic in Denver...it nearly overheated there (to be fair it almost hit 100F today outside). Honestly the car seems to handle and perform best at around 75-80mph. Temp and handling are great there. What I was most impressed with was it's handling in the 80-90mph range. It gripped the turns with zero roll or trouble. Obviously I do not condone what I did but it was quite the demonstration that as crappy as our cars are...they are still sports cars.

Guessing my best bet will be to replace the fans and radiator once I get it situated again.

[Chris 16409]

Guessing my best bet will be to replace the fans and radiator once I get it situated again.

This is the radiator I like:

https://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=41006

DeLorean Go sells it as well with free shipping.

[WHO1DMC]

This is the radiator I like:

https://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=41006

DeLorean Go sells it as well with free shipping.

A radiator.
$250.00 or best offer free shipping new on Ebay. It's a DMCH from private seller.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F15 3501067706

Just a heads up.
David B.

[AirmanPika]

Darn...missed out on the radiator. Oh well.

Anyway yet another quick fix today. I noticed on my long drive the other day my center vents were not working. Turned out I accidentally knocked the vacuum plug off the back of the vent controls when routing the wiring for the digital speedo. Got that connected back up and all is well again. Of course the car decided it needed a fresh blessing and I managed to cut my hand good while rummaging around behind the console.

[DMC5180]

Yes using HR6DS plugs. Wires are from a vendor but don't remember who since they are about 10 years old.

I thought your wires were from John Hervey back then.

Btw, you mentioned throttle sticking around 2000 rpm. Are you still using the idle microswitch with your ECU?

[AirmanPika]

I thought your wires were from John Hervey back then.

Btw, you mentioned throttle sticking around 2000 rpm. Are you still using the idle microswitch with your ECU?

You got me curious...what do you mean "still"? I had to bypass mine but if folks are just eliminating it instead these days I might just leave it as is.

[Rich_NYS]

I have my torsion bars and headliner out, and started cleaning the inside on my roofbox.

What else should I do while I'm in there with the torsion bars removed?

Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

[opethmike]

I did nothing to mine today. DeLoreans are dumb. My DeLorean is especially dumb.

[Col Bennett]

Myself and the family took our pride and joy to the prestigious 64th annual 2019 Hillsborough Concours D'Elegance in Hillsborough, CA today where we won 1st in our class.

We were up against a multi-concours award winning Maserati Merak SS and the DeLorean's big brother - a Lotus Esprit. So great to see the marque get the recognition it deserves at this level. A very proud moment.

Thanks to Rich for the photos!

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_01.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_02.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_03.jpg

[iflights]

Myself and the family took our pride and joy to the prestigious 64th annual 2019 Hillsborough Concours D'Elegance in Hillsborough, CA today where we won 1st in our class.

We were up against a multi-concours award winning Maserati Merak SS and the DeLorean's big brother - a Lotus Esprit. So great to see the marque get the recognition it deserves at this level. A very proud moment.

Thanks to Rich for the photos!

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_01.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_02.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_03.jpg

Congratulations. Well deserved. You've really worked hard on it, so glad it received the proper recognition.

[DMC-81]

Myself and the family took our pride and joy to the prestigious 64th annual 2019 Hillsborough Concours D'Elegance in Hillsborough, CA today where we won 1st in our class.

We were up against a multi-concours award winning Maserati Merak SS and the DeLorean's big brother - a Lotus Esprit. So great to see the marque get the recognition it deserves at this level. A very proud moment.

Thanks to Rich for the photos!

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_01.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_02.jpg

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/2019-07-22_concours_03.jpg

WOW! Congratulations on a well deserved win!! It's great that you were awarded for your attention to detail.

[Rich_NYS]

Awesome....congratulations!

[Lwanmtr]

Great work :)

[DMC-Ron]

Your car looks fantastic, so good work. Neat to see that the DeLorean can foster the recognition alongside those other highly acclaimed cars (feel free to share some other photos of the event).

[Col Bennett]

Congratulations. Well deserved. You've really worked hard on it, so glad it received the proper recognition.


WOW! Congratulations on a well deserved win!! It's great that you were awarded for your attention to detail.


Awesome....congratulations!


Great work :)


Your car looks fantastic, so good work. Neat to see that the DeLorean can foster the recognition alongside those other highly acclaimed cars (feel free to share some other photos of the event).

Yooo guys! Thanks so much. It was a total shock to be honest. I wrongly assumed that DeLoreans just wouldn't be taken seriously at this awarding level. Boy was I proven wrong. Heck, I would have been happy to get a Judges commendation, but I just didn't expect to win out over a Maserati - especially one that has been invited to The Quail.

When we were lining up for the awards ceremony, the Esprit got called first and I looked at my wife with glee and shouted - "We got second!". A moment later I could see the black Maserati pulling slowly forward to my left and in that moment I looked out to my fellow DeLorean buddy Mark Woudsma who was taking photos and I mouthed to him "Holy shit, did I just win?". He nodded. I was stunned.

Again, I've got Ben (Soundkillr at DMCTalk) to thank for taking wonderful care of the car up until I acquired her in 2016. Since then I've been taking Ben's glorious car to the extremes. At this stage, there's only a handful of minor things to improve upon - and I'm especially proud that it's an original car that has never been separated from its frame. It's also been driven and loved. My goal for the car has always been that perfect balance between concours accuracy and a safe drivable car with a few electrical and mechanical updates.

I call my DeLorean "near-concours" and today I've got a pretty fancy trophy to prove it's certainly up there with the best cars in the world.

It's a very proud day for this perfectionist.

[Jonathan]

I have my torsion bars and headliner out, and started cleaning the inside on my roofbox.

What else should I do while I'm in there with the torsion bars removed?

Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

https://store.delorean.com/p-9437-door-roof-seal-lh.aspx

I’d replace these door seals if they need it, Rich. The big concern is drilling out the rivets so close to the precious torsion bars, so if they’re out, you’ll have more room to work without worrying about knicking them.

[Rich_NYS]

https://store.delorean.com/p-9437-door-roof-seal-lh.aspx

I’d replace these door seals if they need it, Rich. The big concern is drilling out the rivets so close to the precious torsion bars, so if they’re out, you’ll have more room to work without worrying about knicking them.Will do, thanks!

Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

[JETS 81 DMC]

Yooo guys! Thanks so much. It was a total shock to be honest. I wrongly assumed that DeLoreans just wouldn't be taken seriously at this awarding level. Boy was I proven wrong. Heck, I would have been happy to get a Judges commendation, but I just didn't expect to win out over a Maserati - especially one that has been invited to The Quail.

When we were lining up for the awards ceremony, the Esprit got called first and I looked at my wife with glee and shouted - "We got second!". A moment later I could see the black Maserati pulling slowly forward to my left and in that moment I looked out to my fellow DeLorean buddy Mark Woudsma who was taking photos and I mouthed to him "Holy shit, did I just win?". He nodded. I was stunned.

Again, I've got Ben (Soundkillr at DMCTalk) to thank for taking wonderful care of the car up until I acquired her in 2016. Since then I've been taking Ben's glorious car to the extremes. At this stage, there's only a handful of minor things to improve upon - and I'm especially proud that it's an original car that has never been separated from its frame. It's also been driven and loved. My goal for the car has always been that perfect balance between concours accuracy and a safe drivable car with a few electrical and mechanical updates.

I call my DeLorean "near-concours" and today I've got a pretty fancy trophy to prove it's certainly up there with the best cars in the world.

It's a very proud day for this perfectionist.


Congratulations, what a pleasant surprise you got. :cheers: You do great work keeping your DMC in 1st class condition.:thumbup2: You should be proud.

[cis6409]

Absolutely amazing well done,!
I would have thought exactly the same that it wouldn't get the recognition In a prize giving class like that.

The car looks fantastic delighted for ya and the attention to detail both you and soundkillr over the years put into it
Be very proud!
Cheers
Shane

[kbrown84]

Adjusted the front coilovers about 2 inches higher, and pulled the passenger side caliper off for a little further trimming (vented rotors..). Now I've gotta pull it all back apart tomorrow to replace a bad wheel bearing!

60782

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ran a fuel pump pressure check just to make sure that was not causing my skip under load.

Primary pressure = 75 PSI
Control pressure started at 30 PSI and in a few minutes was 49 PSI
Held rest pressure after 4 hours was still 8 PSI. That is better than I had before which I only held for 3 hours. I guess the new fuel pump with the external check valve is better.

Next I will put my tail pipe wide band on just to make sure it's holding correct mixture. That does not prove all injectors are good since the lambda just does an average on all six cylinders.

[gulwng3]

I did this: https://www.dmc10515.com/delorean-led-headlights/ but without the wire splice to make all 4 headlights come on in low beam mode. Everything looks and acts just like stock, but the headlights are much brighter and now much safer to drive at night! Fast and easy upgrade!

Andy

[Spittybug]

Sold it on to the next lucky owner..... 13 years. Longer than I've owned any other car in my life.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I ran a tail pipe AFR check (I don't have a CAT) and it is running around 15.5 and jumping around more than expected. So now the question is it misfiring (I don't hear a misfire) or is my internal wideband sensor going bad.

I may just go back to the stock narrow band sensor. I never run my engine at the richer power setting anyway.

[JBaker4981]

Yesterday I took the car to surprise an old friend's daughter who is obsessed with DeLoreans. Totally made her day. However.. When I arrived and was waiting on them to get there, I had a "moment" and tried to open my drivers side door and it wouldn't open. Starting to panic a little bit, I realized that the door was still locked after a couple of minutes. Ugh...

60791
60792
60793

[CFI]

Not my car, and it didn’t happen today, but I arranged for another local owner to display his DeLorean at an outdoor screening of Back to The Future (my car decided to dump its coolant all over the road recently).

The car was a huge success with people swarming over it during the pre show activities.

60798

[Bitsyncmaster]

I ran a tail pipe AFR check (I don't have a CAT) and it is running around 15.5 and jumping around more than expected. So now the question is it misfiring (I don't hear a misfire) or is my internal wideband sensor going bad.

I may just go back to the stock narrow band sensor. I never run my engine at the richer power setting anyway.

Went to pull my tailpipe sensor off and noticed it had water in it. Well ya that's what happens when you don't warm up the car first and the air is humid.

So I cleaned out the water and did a re-calibrate on the sensor (this is an Inovate LM2 wideband). After the recal it reads the proper 20.9 AFR in free air. Tested my tailpipe AFR again after the fans kicked on and it it jumping all over the place. So either it is skipping or my internal wideband unit has gone haywire.

[Spittybug]

Went to pull my tailpipe sensor off and noticed it had water in it. Well ya that's what happens when you don't warm up the car first and the air is humid.

So I cleaned out the water and did a re-calibrate on the sensor (this is an Inovate LM2 wideband). After the recal it reads the proper 20.9 AFR in free air. Tested my tailpipe AFR again after the fans kicked on and it it jumping all over the place. So either it is skipping or my internal wideband unit has gone haywire.


I had an Inovate wideband die on me. Googled it and found out that their reliability has gotten pretty bad lately. I bought a 14point7 one and the 02 probe died immediately but they were quick to send me a new one. No problems thereafter and the nice thing is you don't have to calibrate them. Great for Megasquirt systems.

[FABombjoy]

Is your internal an LC1 or LC2?

I had an LC1 go crazy on me. They have some documented design-level issues that make for a short lifespan.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is your internal an LC1 or LC2?

I had an LC1 go crazy on me. They have some documented design-level issues that make for a short lifespan.

I have an LC1 internally in my car. It does not show any error codes but I suspect the sensor or electronics is bad. I think I'm going to go back to the stock narrow band sensor. The wideband sensors don't seem to last as long as narrow band sensors. The good thing with the wideband is it is heated so it comes on line in 15 seconds after starting. I also think the heating helps reduce some idle hunting.

[FABombjoy]

Mind didn't show any error codes, but one of the two analog outputs would get stuck low. Happened to me leaving DCS 2016 and made for a memorable first few miles until I could pull over and get things temporarily fixed up.

I've had an LC2 now for a couple of years and it reportedly has the hardware issues taken care of. I have the sensor mounted on the vertical, post turbo, and with a radiant heat shield cobbled up which is also supposed to extend the lifespan.

[mark w]

I keep taking parts off my car.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hSW7bK_QTaFeD3wKOVZDdu00q-vqcPSqgf_r38NnTkxWXj1Rmir7E4ZRJWz7zi7rLoFtDbAe282G C7roqZxSeYOQKE4W85Dvs8hTnS1ta5q3UPqRVhsLFRfc7MMdMf 0UiNToJBn-wa7cbcnN_4Z-CTVKkqRDBxGkgGoNEc7Ci0CdrKvfqx6VvTm0ZEYcWHOoX_cu1U vHOGXO-bDcHopdPE1B0JdQN7HpY0AaNyJpgRtvPqonbND_KhMlEEEEiLL V8klNjJvKRIfUPg8NcVyHrw6Vts7pwXZ_t01gs-TY1qPt2yUYZNYTqYLzLtoTUVxOpJfmMhKzv_f_E6VaGFpGcAXB pZBULymQUOuKXQ5Dg5fJhSucoZCmqksq8e4ZBxdgr3kRjX-MOBwFVqbmSdWLi00A6AlmSSQ4ZF8j2Z8uewad1gwIsMi0DaJam mrlokr9t5TO9aOD31aYfFSZudXOWcfs-xXwmSjQFnC30JDJglzHqkpeN97I4D4od7SUvpPptxU92MSarfU lqJDAGkocGWBeUXhHKt8ttVGoEmNXR7ZkHkHZPp05EIG6TCSv9 hDNs_kg1wj2M4TaVrcyoRIKFW0Ur6yq2gGub00NW00A-ZI-jnePu9zgEzCHVMvv0Dv1vSV60KkmQljJxHJaKn9mNLDbXKW1En G7=w1168-h657-no

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed the narrow band O2 sensor to replace my wideband unit. Had to adjust the dwell a little. Tail pipe AFR check showed around 16.5 AFR and an occasional jumping around. So took the car for a quick drive around the neighborhood and as expected I still feel the skip.

I would have expected the tail pipe AFR to show a rich condition with a skip but it showed lean.

So only things not checked yet are the plug wires and the distributor pickup coil.

Also could check all injector spray patterns.

[FABombjoy]

I would have expected the tail pipe AFR to show a rich condition with a skip but it showed lean.
Misfires read lean since there is extra free oxygen in the exhaust.

About the only time you would see a low AFR without combustion is if there was enough fuel vapor to displace oxygen, aka a literal gasoline flood. That happened to me once and I don't recommend it.

[dmcnc]

Replaced my radiator drain with a 1/4" hex plug to end a longtime and slow valve leak.
60829
When comparing to a new one I purchased before I found the hex plug, the valve seemed a bit bent. I tried to tighten it some, but the wings came off.
60830

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ran an injector spray test (six bottles and pump running, press the air plate) and all six look very good with very even amount of flow.

I really thought this was going to show it was my skipping problem but not so.

I have a new set of ignition wires from DPI cumming in today so I hope that fixes it. I just don't think that will fix it.

[Ron]

Ran an injector spray test (six bottles and pump running, press the air plate) and all six look very good with very even amount of flow.

I really thought this was going to show it was my skipping problem but not so.

I have a new set of ignition wires from DPI cumming in today so I hope that fixes it. I just don't think that will fix it.
Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to determine if it is one specific cylinder (or cylinders) or random?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to determine if it is one specific cylinder (or cylinders) or random?

That's what I should have tried first. No Since I have new wires coming in I will change them all. If those fix it I will ohm the wires just to make sure.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I resistance checked the old wires. Shortest one was 700 ohms, longest was 1200 ohms, others were between.

I updated the software in my wideband LM2 and retested the tail pipe AFR. Still the AFR reads around 15.2 at RPM above idle. This is the reason I don't think my problem is fixed. I even tried a new wideband sensor with the same result.

I also adjusted my curb idle. I've had to hit the gas to get my engine started and never had to do that before. I guess when I pulled the mixture unit that curb idle adjustment changed. That may have also added to the idle hunt when the lambda first goes closed loop. I will have to see how it starts after the engine cools off.

I tested the resistance of the distributor pick up coil at 710 ohms so it looks normal.

[Spittybug]

I resistance checked the old wires. Shortest one was 700 ohms, longest was 1200 ohms, others were between.

I updated the software in my wideband LM2 and retested the tail pipe AFR. Still the AFR reads around 15.2 at RPM above idle. This is the reason I don't think my problem is fixed. I even tried a new wideband sensor with the same result.

I also adjusted my curb idle. I've had to hit the gas to get my engine started and never had to do that before. I guess when I pulled the mixture unit that curb idle adjustment changed. That may have also added to the idle hunt when the lambda first goes closed loop. I will have to see how it starts after the engine cools off.

I tested the resistance of the distributor pick up coil at 710 ohms so it looks normal.


Dave, I think you would get such a kick out of the Megasquirt system given your electronic aptitude....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, I think you would get such a kick out of the Megasquirt system given your electronic aptitude....

Maybe someday I will change to EFI. My K-jet never gave me problems for 10 years. This is my first problem.

[Spittybug]

Maybe someday I will change to EFI. My K-jet never gave me problems for 10 years. This is my first problem.

The hard part is the physical integration. Software and tuning wise... pretty straightforward.

As I no longer have a horse in this race and sold off all the spare parts with it, I can't tinker. What I would do if I ever did it again would be to keep the existing manifold, tap in some injector bungs through the sides, one above each runner, and either do what Darcom did with dual throttle bodies in place of the W horn pipe or use the stock throttle body mated to a wide open fuel metering housing. I'd consider a fuel rail header somewhere with flexible hoses to each injector if possible. Alternatively, use one big injector per bank, mounted in the W horn pipe..... The key with this engine seems to be in keeping the incoming air velocity high. For a long time I had too big of a throttle body diameter which bogged me down when accelerating, combined with the Peugeot manifold that has much shorter runners. Solution was to simply put a restriction plate behind the throttle body to keep the velocity from dropping.

If I could find a stock manifold setup locally I would love to tinker......just for the fun of creating a drop in solution for someone.

[FABombjoy]

The hard part is the physical integration.
I think the formula is pretty established at this point and you can leave most of the intake as-is. DPI even sells rails and locks with the proper 108mm spacing if you don't want to do that part and lots of bolt-on parts to clean up from de-kjetting.
-Gut meter housing, plug all the holes
-1 standard extrusion fuel rail per bank
-6 standard 19lb or higher injectors. EV12 type injectors spray right toward the valves if clocked in.
-Hoses: filter to rail, rail to rail, rail to regulator, regulator to return
-There's a half dozen ways to solve the PCV, vapor, and idle air control

We converted Patrick C's car in a weekend with very little pre-built. Friday morning K-jet, Sunday night Megasquirt.

Wiring probably takes the longest. We spent a fair amount of time deleting superfluous wiring, depinning, and unwrapping/rewrapping harnesses.

[Delorean Industries]

Fuel rails with injectors

https://deloreanindustries.com/spec-efi-fuel-rail-set-w-injectors/


Fuel rails stand alone

https://deloreanindustries.com/delorean-dpi-efi-fuel-rail-set/

60883

60884

[Spittybug]

That's great! None of that was available 11 or so years ago when I did mine. So much easier now, I don't know why anyone with a non-concourse car would spend money on K-Jet repairs.....

[Bitsyncmaster]

That's great! None of that was available 11 or so years ago when I did mine. So much easier now, I don't know why anyone with a non-concourse car would spend money on K-Jet repairs.....

It still takes someone capable of understanding how it all works and has good mechanical and electrical experience. But you guys got me thinking. So do you pressure regulate your fuel supply by a return line from a regulator? I've always been thinking of an electronic control of the fuel pump so as not to need a return line to the tank. But with K-jet your need that return line which is part of the mixture control.

[Spittybug]

Dave, when I did mine I merely used the existing supply via the fuel filter (which I moved to a convenient location on the rear firewall) through two fuel rails, then a pressure regulator (set to ~45psi IIRC) and then back to the existing return line. So my system still had the superfluous fuel accumulator in place, but it didn't matter.

Concept is easy as I know you know.... listen to several sensors:

manifold vacuum
incoming air temp
engine temp
throttle position
wide band O2
RPM


Use tables within the tuning software to determine the necessary fueling duration (pulsewidth) of the injectors for each intersect of RPM and engine load (vacuum) to achieve desired air to fuel ratio (anywhere from ~ 12 to 16 depending on desired power or efficiency, with 14.7 being stoiceometric). Nuances are obviously for enhancing fueling for startup, warmup and acceleration enhancement (transitions on hard acceleration).

The software has auto tuning capability that listens to the O2 sensor and adjusts the pulse widths accordingly.

It's a great system to tinker with and results in a really drive-able car.

[Riley88]

Virginia Beach local meet up and met a new fellow local owner!60895

[CFI]

Virginia Beach local meet up and met a new fellow local owner!60895

So much fun!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, when I did mine I merely used the existing supply via the fuel filter (which I moved to a convenient location on the rear firewall) through two fuel rails, then a pressure regulator (set to ~45psi IIRC) and then back to the existing return line. So my system still had the superfluous fuel accumulator in place, but it didn't matter.


A few nice things with my idea of no return fuel line.

1) The fuel in the tank should stay cooler if your still running K-jet. Not so much with EFI unless the return line is after the injector rails.

2) If you want to run an MPG sensor in the fuel pump line it would be accurate. Again with EFI, MPG is usally calculated knowing the injectors flow rates.

3) Less effort on the fuel pump and some electrical load savings.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I ran a few errands the past two days with the D and did not note any skipping. I'm thinking it may just have been not driving my D for a long time maybe an injector or something else in the fuel system was dirty. I will keep driving it and check the AFR again to see if it runs closer to 14.7.

It now starts without giving it any gas but I had back off curb idle because when it was hot the idle was to high.

[Brian_SS_TT]

Black or brushed stainless???

Will have it made out of stainless, only the DMC will be cut out, one side brushed other matte black, could mount it either side.

6089660897

[Lwanmtr]

Black or brushed stainless???

Will have it made out of stainless, only the DMC will be cut out, one side brushed other matte black, could mount it either side.

6089660897


The black looks better to me.

[Spittybug]

A few nice things with my idea of no return fuel line.

1) The fuel in the tank should stay cooler if your still running K-jet. Not so much with EFI unless the return line is after the injector rails.

2) If you want to run an MPG sensor in the fuel pump line it would be accurate. Again with EFI, MPG is usally calculated knowing the injectors flow rates.

3) Less effort on the fuel pump and some electrical load savings.

I see no reason that the fuel must go in a loop. I chose to do so at the time, but knowing what I now know, I wouldn't lose sleep if it dead ended so long as it didn't have any adverse affect on the pump. (I'm normally pretty good on grammar as an English teacher's son, but is it affect or effect in this case....I must be getting rusty) :8ball:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I see no reason that the fuel must go in a loop. I chose to do so at the time, but knowing what I now know, I wouldn't lose sleep if it dead ended so long as it didn't have any adverse affect on the pump. (I'm normally pretty good on grammar as an English teacher's son, but is it affect or effect in this case....I must be getting rusty) :8ball:

Another thing I think is a good thing with EFI is the fuel accumulator. It removes the pulses you get from the fuel pump. If you ever run a pressure washer and that hose touches your body, you would know what a pump does as far a pulsing.

[FABombjoy]

Another thing I think is a good thing with EFI is the fuel accumulator.
Are you joking? Next time my car is on a lift that thing is coming out. Totally unnecessary with EFI.

[matt clark]

Not my car, exactly, but finally finished off these replica DSV and Proto-1 grille emblems:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594465027_be06fd06a9_h.jpg

The DSV is laser-cut, the DMC is 3D printed. Both are mounted to a flat base with rounded edges as per the Bill Collins car grilles, and both have a brushed-metal effect paint job.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594326971_aaccd1e88f_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594327106_ff35fb54ad_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594327581_146bf86b3b_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594465577_207c05c337_h.jpg

Here's an image of the DSV logo on the epo-wood mockup.

https://i.imgur.com/8wLrgDd.jpg

I seem to recall seeing a photo of the epo-wood car with the "JZD" emblem on it, can anyone confirm that? If so, then I've still got 3 more to make to have the complete 'set".

[Michael]

Not my car, exactly, but finally finished off these replica DSV and Proto-1 grille emblems:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594465027_be06fd06a9_h.jpg

The DSV is laser-cut, the DMC is 3D printed. Both are mounted to a flat base with rounded edges as per the Bill Collins car grilles, and both have a brushed-metal effect paint job.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594326971_aaccd1e88f_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594327106_ff35fb54ad_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594327581_146bf86b3b_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48594465577_207c05c337_h.jpg

Here's an image of the DSV logo on the epo-wood mockup.

https://i.imgur.com/8wLrgDd.jpg

I seem to recall seeing a photo of the epo-wood car with the "JZD" emblem on it, can anyone confirm that? If so, then I've still got 3 more to make to have the complete 'set".
That is cool! It would even look good as a stand alone plaque for a desk.

[opethmike]

I drove mine from my driveway into the garage.

[DMC-81]

Not my car, exactly, but finally finished off these replica DSV and Proto-1 grille emblems:
~snip~

I seem to recall seeing a photo of the epo-wood car with the "JZD" emblem on it, can anyone confirm that? If so, then I've still got 3 more to make to have the complete 'set".


Nice work! Yes, here is the picture:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59052&d=1547799139
It's a photo of JZD and Giorgetto Giugiaro with the first wooden mockup of what would become the DeLorean. When I first looked, I almost didn't notice the front grill badge with the "JZD" lettering.

Source: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-john-z-delorean-the-bmw-turbo-and-the-curious-coincidence/

[matt clark]

Nice work! Yes, here is the picture:

Amazing, thank you! I knew I'd seen it but just couldn't place it. Back to the laser cutter...

[nkemp]

Cussed and swore at it...

I cannot seem to get my rear camber adjusted to anything close to looking OK let alone looking good. I adjust the shock height, drive it for a mile or so and swear at it. It looks OK when I let the car down but driving it settles things in and then it looks like $#!+. Then I noticed a coolant leak. More swearing. If it is not one thing, it is another. Today I jacked it up and went under to find the leak and everything is dry ... so I tightened anyway. That BMW I8 is looking better every day!

More info about the camber problem at this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17446-Excess-Rear-Wheel-Camber&p=249940#post249940

[jawn101]

Last weekend, took it up to Clint's for a fluid change. Oil, brakes, clutch and an AC recharge. That was fun! Didn't think of the coolant - maybe next time.

Noticed that my rear tires were scrubbed pretty hard on the inner edge. I guess I let them get way, way too low. Clint is going to build up some adjustable rear links so we can dial in the camber, and I've now got a brand new set of 235/60r15 Cooper Cobra GTs (with factory RWL!) waiting in the garage for when that's ready.

Today, I dropped my muffler heat shield and layered the edges with silver heat reflective tape. This was one of the older Houston shields that had the silver foil covered fiber material on it, and it had started to peel in some pretty ugly spots. Looks great with the tape on now.

I also installed the new DeLorean Go steering canopy, as mine had been broken ~20 years ago in a theft attempt. Wow, what a nice part! Not only does it look nicer than the stock one (slightly textured, matte finish plastic) but it eliminated almost all of the rattles in the car. I knew it was loose, but I had no idea it was so noisy. Yay!

My DeLorean Go box also included 4 new CV boot kits and a new pair of engine mounts, jobs for another day

Here are some pics.

[Rich_NYS]

I installed a new steering link: Borgeson anti-vibration joint with a double-D shaft. I just got back from a test drive, it's a nice improvement.

[Michael]

While Rich was busy with trivial things like being able to steer your car, I took on more challenging roles such as refreshing my header cap.

60980

[DMC5180]

Cussed and swore at it...

I cannot seem to get my rear camber adjusted to anything close to looking OK let alone looking good. I adjust the shock height, drive it for a mile or so and swear at it. It looks OK when I let the car down but driving it settles things in and then it looks like $#!+. Then I noticed a coolant leak. More swearing. If it is not one thing, it is another. Today I jacked it up and went under to find the leak and everything is dry ... so I tightened anyway. That BMW I8 is looking better every day!

More info about the camber problem at this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17446-Excess-Rear-Wheel-Camber&p=249940#post249940

That’s want adjustable control links are for. [emoji6]

[nkemp]

That’s want adjustable control links are for. [emoji6]

Agreed ... but I've seen other cars that have similar lowering kits without the severe camber ... which gets one thinking ... is there another issue that needs fixing. Are there differences in the frames/suspension that I'm dealing with?

[JAZ_DMC]

Nice work! Yes, here is the picture:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59052&d=1547799139
It's a photo of JZD and Giorgetto Giugiaro with the first wooden mockup of what would become the DeLorean. When I first looked, I almost didn't notice the front grill badge with the "JZD" lettering.

Source: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-john-z-delorean-the-bmw-turbo-and-the-curious-coincidence/

This is such an amazingly cool photo.

[JAZ_DMC]

Replaced both door sill seals with new rubber, cleaned off all original adhesive from the stainless steel plates, put new rivets on each end and reinstalled with new stainless steel screws.

[CFI]

Modified the radiator fan system to run on two relays and two circuit breakers.

[jawn101]

Got my new tires installed. They look awesome!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190830/28f4a1e3a5f1a9b8e5ad6723f87fddeb.jpg

[jackb]

Quite a few things today:

Installed my new binnacle that I've been sitting on for 5 years (bought in this thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1632-Binnacles))

Replaced the instrument cluster printed circuitboard while I had it off (DeloreanGo)
Replaced the circuitboard hardware with brass nuts/washers
Tested my fuel gauge and low fuel light (using instructions in this thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2291-How-to-Inaccurate-fuel-gauge-readings-How-to-rule-out-the-actual-fuel-gauge) indicating my low fuel light was a bad LED. Found/fixed a few other bad LEDs at the same time.

Replaced the gas cap because I've got an emissions test coming up soon and it will fail for cracked rubber (DeloreanGo)

Replaced drivers window switch canon plug (DeloreanGo). The old one was melty and mishapen giving me a bad/intermittent connection. But now neither window moves at all. Gotta check my fuses.

Installed new floormats (DeloreanGo). Looks good.

[CFI]

I started on my next project courtesy of Mr. McKeen and his awesome products.
61113

[Chris 16409]

I started on my next project courtesy of Mr. McKeen and his awesome products.
61113

Let us know how the fuel sender ECU box works.

[CFI]

Let us know how the fuel sender ECU box works.

So far so good. Dave programs it to match your sending units high/low readings prior to shipping. It’s reading correctly now but the real test will be tomorrow’s drive.

[dmcnc]

Runs flawlessly on mine - 10k miles later!


Let us know how the fuel sender ECU box works.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I dumped a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into my tank and drove about 10 miles. It may be my imagination but it seems to be running very smooth now. With a standard transmission you tend to feel engine problems more so than an auto.

So when I got home I put the dwell meter on it an it was reading 50 deg. So something changed and I set it 40 deg. Then I checked the tail pipe AFR and it still reads around 15.2 AFR. I wonder if my new narrow band O2 sensor can be setting the wrong mixture. I've never heard of a narrow band sensor not making 14.7 AFR. I do miss my wideband unit in the car. It was so nice getting 14.7 AFR after 15 seconds of engine running.

[Michael]

Refinished my windshield trim panel. It's held up great since 2006 but the finish has some high/low areas that could be hidden with a little dressing and I didn't want that greasy look. I cleaned, sanded with 800 to get some bite, few coats of trim black followed by 2 coats of SEM 1k matt clear. It should hold up well considering it's garaged 99% of the time. Did the A pillar trims too so everything matches.

6113061131

[Lwanmtr]

Looks great

[AirmanPika]

I drove it from Colorado to California last night into today. ~17 hours manhandling a DeLorean across the western US. It was generally fine except...

- Colorado decided to thunderstorm in Denver, dump a white out snow storm on me in the mountains just before Vail, and throw a heavy rain storm and some occasional light hail once in Vail. The snow almost completely covered my headlamps so I had to limp at 20ish mph down the center of I-70 attempting to make out the center lines as best I could. Actually quite terrifying.

- Oh my high beams seem to not want to work. Went to flip em on....POOF DARKNESS. Guessing a fuse or relay. I'll check it later.

- And for the best one...I discovered my A/C doesn't work (mostly) right after passing Las Vegas and the greenhouse effect took full hold. Had to rely on the vents and windows (and my arm out the window to deflect air in) to cool myself as best I could. Good thing today was rather temperate out west. I know it had a VERY slow leak when I first got it and had recharged it with some alternative R12 (not 132) which held it seems till at least I got it to Colorado. Didn't really use the A/C after that till now. I think I may still have some cans of the stuff to refill it as a first attempt and go from there. The compressor properly engages and tries to cool but it just isn't enough. I was disgusting when I arrived here to say the least.

Overall tho...things went well. It still shakes like a frightened puppy. Otherwise the overheat issue I experienced a month ago on a preliminary run did not occur. Seems on my car if you avoid initial stop and go traffic the temp stays right in the middle between 180 and 220 and the actual radiator cap never starts leaking. I ran the fan initially with the AC on but eventually realized even just the air flow from highway speeds alone was enough even in the daytime (though I kicked the AC on to enable the fans when I hit some stop and go traffic to be safe).

61132

Ignore that loaner Nissan...my other car had an incident so it is being repaired right now.

[jackb]

Finished replacing a few LEDs in the instrument cluster that died. 100% funtional now.
The car is now 99% LED. Only the headlights remain. (and the engine compartment and dome lights, but those are all unplugged; I never ever use them)

Installed a new (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17153-All-stainless-speedometer-cable-break-line-bracket-40-shipping) speedometer lower cable support bracket

About 9.5 yrs ago I had replaced the OE fender mounted antenna with a much shorter generic rubber antenna. It still looked bad, but was an improvement over the practically CB height of the OE antenna. I never listen to the radio, so it's worthless to me. I've had the hardest time finding a plug that fits the hole (especially since its not round- it's pear shaped) but finally got it taken care of yesterday. I picked up a 7/8' plastic plug from Lowes. I spent a while shaving away bits of the edge sliver by sliver until it it finally fit flush all around. It's black, but still so much better.

[ritztoys]

My car was on jacks due to troubleshooting a serious gas leak, which I successfully repaired and with no leaks now. (old fuel lines)

I decided to add an additional ground wire via the Inertia Switch and the hidden chassis ground bolt. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17732-Voltage-gauge-reading-low

I'm quite surprised how this mod affected both the reading of my voltage gauge and the running of my fuel pump, very happy with the results for such a simple improvement to the cars' electrical system.

[AirmanPika]

Well fixed the high beams. It was a bad relay. Luckily I kept a spare in the glove box. Wish I had just did it when I first noticed it.

[iflights]

Refinished my windshield trim panel. It's held up great since 2006 but the finish has some high/low areas that could be hidden with a little dressing and I didn't want that greasy look. I cleaned, sanded with 800 to get some bite, few coats of trim black followed by 2 coats of SEM 1k matt clear. It should hold up well considering it's garaged 99% of the time. Did the A pillar trims too so everything matches.



Beautiful work. Inspires me to do the same.

[Jonathan]

My car was on jacks due to troubleshooting a serious gas leak, which I successfully repaired and with no leaks now. (old fuel lines)

I decided to add an additional ground wire via the Inertia Switch and the hidden chassis ground bolt. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17732-Voltage-gauge-reading-low

I'm quite surprised how this mod affected both the reading of my voltage gauge and the running of my fuel pump, very happy with the results for such a simple improvement to the cars' electrical system.

Can you say specifically what you did here? I know that thread you mentioned is about 15 posts long, and there was talk of cutting ground wires as well as just adding a ground wire. I'd much rather just add a wire than have to cut anything if possible. Is that what you did? Just add an additional wire from the black wire connection on the inertia switch straight to a grounding bolt (near the driver's feet I think it mentioned)?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Can you say specifically what you did here? I know that thread you mentioned is about 15 posts long, and there was talk of cutting ground wires as well as just adding a ground wire. I'd much rather just add a wire than have to cut anything if possible. Is that what you did? Just add an additional wire from the black wire connection on the inertia switch straight to a grounding bolt (near the driver's feet I think it mentioned)?

If you don't cut the ground wire from the inertia switch you will still be conducting some current through the dash gauge ground wire. I guess if you use a very heavy gauge new wire and get a good frame ground it would work.

[Ron]

If you are sure your connections etc. are good, it must be the gauge. In that case, I'd buy a gauge or isolate the gauge and run it with two dedicated wires (fed by the Aux 2 relay's feed).

[jackb]

I've been wanting a pair of seatbelt buckles to mount under the dash to secure the seatbelt across an open door for car shows, but refuse to spend that kind of money for a new part. And none used are available. So I made my own "clips"...
61138

On the drivers side, I used a big carabiner to hook the seatbelt to the bonnet release cable
61140

On the passenger side, I loosened the blower motor and looped in a peice of knotted 550 cord. Then I hooked another carabiner to that and the seatbelt.
61139

[CFI]

I've been wanting a pair of seatbelt buckles to mount under the dash to secure the seatbelt across an open door for car shows, but refuse to spend that kind of money for a new part. And none used are available. So I made my own "clips"...
61138

On the drivers side, I used a big carabiner to hook the seatbelt to the bonnet release cable
61140

On the passenger side, I loosened the blower motor and looped in a peice of knotted 550 cord. Then I hooked another carabiner to that and the seatbelt.
61139

I’m not sure that would stop people from sitting in your car. I picture kids (and some adults) just pushing the belts aside.

Personally I enjoy letting people sit in my car. It gives them a deeper connection to it. They feel it, they smell the leather. I ask for their phone and take pictures of them. Now they don’t just have a picture of a DeLorean, they have a picture of themselves in a DeLorean. It brings a lot of joy to random people I’ve met.

[Michael]

I
Personally I enjoy letting people sit in my car. It gives them a deeper connection to it. They feel it, they smell the leather. I ask for their phone and take pictures of them. Now they don’t just have a picture of a DeLorean, they have a picture of themselves in a DeLorean. It brings a lot of joy to random people I’ve met.

I agree 100% as long as they ask or are invited. I am not much for random people plopping in my car just because the doors are open. I would not be concerned with damage as much as I hate bad manners.

[jackb]

I would never leave it unattended at a car show, and don’t mind at all people sitting for pictures-when they ask. If someone just plopped down in the seat I’d be an asshole real fast. The belts are a polite way of saying “don’t sit.”

I thought about putting a bar (like PVC pipe or something) across the entry hanging from the strikers, but decided they were too low, and would be far too subtle. The seatbelt comes from a higher height, so I think it’s better.

[Rich_NYS]

A few years ago an owner/Talk mod (who I haven't seen here in a long time) mentioned he fastens the seatbelts as well....no mod, just into the buckle.

It seems to act as a psychological deterrent, I think it works. There's something about not wanting to sit on a seatbelt that stops people. I like to leave my doors open wherever I go, and I adopted this idea. I haven't had an issue yet...

Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

Tonite I swapped out my intakeIntake O-Rings. Steve Rice gave me some super-gucci units that I expect to seal really well.

I also started on my AC. The line that connects to the accumulator is stuck. I'm spraying and waiting. I ordered an O ring kit and a AC flush kit.

[DMC-81]

I've been wanting a pair of seatbelt buckles to mount under the dash to secure the seatbelt across an open door for car shows, but refuse to spend that kind of money for a new part. And none used are available. So I made my own "clips"...
61138

On the drivers side, I used a big carabiner to hook the seatbelt to the bonnet release cable
61140

On the passenger side, I loosened the blower motor and looped in a peice of knotted 550 cord. Then I hooked another carabiner to that and the seatbelt.
61139

Hi Jack,
Great ingenuity! Hey, there is one thing I wanted to point out on your luggage compartment release cable in your second photo. The way the cable is aligned relative to the release handle puts you at significant risk of it being cut over time by the sheath/fitting. You should be able to gently bend the cable holder on the bracket so that the cable does not rub against the opening of the fitting. Basically they should be in a straight line, with the cable close to the middle of the hole in the sheath, like so:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61142&d=1568767614

I wouldn't want you to suffer the dreaded broken cable.

[Justin Trabue]

Repaired a road rash emblem.

[Lwanmtr]

Looks good.