What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[CyberBill]

It runs!!!

https://youtu.be/G1u_AvNunmo

After 6 months, 5510 is mostly back together and the engine is running. I still have tons of things to wrap up before I can drive it around the block, but I think the worst is behind me.

[Michael]

It runs!!!

https://youtu.be/G1u_AvNunmo

After 6 months, 5510 is mostly back together and the engine is running. I still have tons of things to wrap up before I can drive it around the block, but I think the worst is behind me.

Awesome!

Congratulations!

[mr_maxime]

Had some new brackets laser cut a while back, finally got around to trying to bend one. It is damn rough without a proper break. It'd be way easier if it didnt need a 115 degree bend. I'll probably just end up buying them premade

https://i.imgur.com/S4oyHvH.jpg?2
https://i.imgur.com/PSTSfMC.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/u6gjLJe.jpg?2

[Bitsyncmaster]

Had some new brackets laser cut a while back, finally got around to trying to bend one. It is damn rough without a proper break. It'd be way easier if it didnt need a 115 degree bend. I'll probably just end up buying them premade

This would probably work to 90 deg. You may be able use some shims to bend it further.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-press-brake-attachment.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh4j-BRCsARIsAGeV12DeBxhOf5SVAGntSKzCMSAPUTKUtExU2WaQuL os6hLWYG1qZtA4A6saAh9yEALw_wcB

[mr_maxime]

This would probably work to 90 deg. You may be able use some shims to bend it further.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-press-brake-attachment.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh4j-BRCsARIsAGeV12DeBxhOf5SVAGntSKzCMSAPUTKUtExU2WaQuL os6hLWYG1qZtA4A6saAh9yEALw_wcB

I checked out what they had, but unfortunately what is reasonably priced for my use either can't brake 0.07" stainless or do it precisely enough. I had looked at this one previously https://www.eastwood.com/4-inch-metal-bender.html but reviews you couldn't line it up very well. Probably have to bend first, then drill the holes

[mr_maxime]

I attempted to rivet these in, but lack the required strength with the rivet gun i bought

https://i.imgur.com/oCV0tvP.jpg?1

[Quinn]

Installed the Eagle starter. Seems to work good so far. I was worried that I would have to loosen the stock exhaust manifold to the get the OEM starter out, but didn't have to. After removing the oil filter, it slid right out. Hopefully, this solves the issue, where my old starter sounded like it wasn't disengaging.

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Recently had to take my car in for smog check. I took a chance on leaving in the cold air intake (with temperature control valve delete). It passed the visual check, so I decided to go ahead and remove the whole stovepipe from my manifold. During the smog check, also learned that if your car is too low to drive up on to the dyno machine, that part of the test is waived.

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Performed oil change for the first time since owning this car. Installed the EZ drain plug while I was there.

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Installed all steel lug nuts.

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Installed stylish vent grills in the rear deckboard that covers the relay/fuse compartment.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Installed stylish vent grills in the rear deckboard that covers the relay/fuse compartment.

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That should keep your relay compartment cool.

[white out]

Current status

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6_4sFd3weE&t=392s

[CyberBill]

Had a pretty fun day today - this is the first time I've driven the DeLorean on a highway!

I visited a place called Stew's Garage in Kirkland, WA (Totem Lake). This is a shop space where you can rent a bay, complete with a full suite of tools and a car lift. For roughly $100 I rented a bay for two hours, and it was AMAZING!! With the car up on the 4-post lift I could easily torque down all of the suspension components, which was the plan. I also poked around to try and figure out where the transmission is leaking from (In short - everywhere). It was nice to be able to have all the high quality tools available, and I surely got more done in 2 hours than I could do in a full day at home.

On the way to the garage I took only back roads, it's about 10 miles away or so, and it did really well. I was pretty nervous, since the farthest drive since the rebuild has been around the block!! On the drive home I was much more confident, and took the highway. Got it up to about 70 with no major issues.

As far as I can tell, there seems to be a small exhaust leak when I give it some gas. I can also hear a slight squealing at higher RPMs. The gas gauge is definitely not right. Temperature gauge seems low (fans come on, though). I got a little bit of smoke on the way home, but this is probably the exhaust paint & wrap, and it stopped. The steering wheel isn't centered - and the car needs an alignment. And lastly, the automatic is just... Ooof, especially as far as power is concerned. It will trigger the kick down switch and max out at about 3krpm, but going up steep hills takes a lot. It's begging for that EV conversion. :)

[mr_maxime]

Temperature gauge seems low (fans come on, though).

Should be at about 1/4 of the gauge IIRC. It's if lower, the thermostat may be stuck open.



I started coating the front impact absorber with flex seal. Also got in touch someone that should be able to start doing some frame repair to the sections i cut out. He said he'd be calling around for a place where I could chemically strip the frame. The one he used before is about 3 mins from my job.

[CyberBill]

Should be at about 1/4 of the gauge IIRC. It's if lower, the thermostat may be stuck open.

Oh - well, in that case maybe it's fine. That's pretty much where the gauge is when its all warmed up. I used an infrared thermometer to read the temperature on the pipe leaving the engine on the driver's side, and it's significantly hotter than the temperature listed.

[mr_maxime]

Picked these up from the local industrial cleaner. Now just need to take them to get powdercoated

https://i.imgur.com/IBiDU9w.jpg?2

[Mark D]

Picked these up from the local industrial cleaner. Now just need to take them to get powdercoated

https://i.imgur.com/IBiDU9w.jpg?2


Since you've got them all nice and clean, if I were you I'd consider touching up the welds with a sanding disc or abrasive wheel to smooth out the surface and get rid of the weld spatter. It can make a noticeable difference in preventing rust since sharp edges and the porous surfaces of the welds are where rust typically starts.

Here's an example of what I did with my rear suspension links:

After chemical strip:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12806&d=1346342731

After sand blasting and smoothing out the welds:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12808&d=1346343654

[mr_maxime]

For once, I wasn't even thinking of going down that route and just taking them to the powdercoaters tomorrow cause I'm motivated to just get things done lol. But yeah you're right I even got welding wire in one spot. It needs to be cleaned up.

[Mark D]

For once, I wasn't even thinking of going down that route and just taking them to the powdercoaters tomorrow cause I'm motivated to just get things done lol. But yeah you're right I even got welding wire in one spot. It needs to be cleaned up.

It's a pain to do, but the final result will be worth it. I remember my back aching for days from sitting hunched over at the sand blasting cabinet. Lots of hours with a dremel too getting all those nooks and crannies smooth. You're most of the way there with where you're at now.

[nkemp]

Years ago, my powder coater offered a zinc rich coat as a base coat for additional rust protection. Then put a color coat on top. The zinc rich version was not color fast degrading due to UV degradation. Thus the two coats. I suspect things have changed since then.

My TA's were severely rusted so I replaced them. Plus the TA bolt would not come out. They must get a lot of chips and flex that exposes the original coating.

[mr_maxime]

Mine weren't bad, but they served as perfect test pieces before i do the frame.

[Mark D]

Years ago, my powder coater offered a zinc rich coat as a base coat for additional rust protection. Then put a color coat on top. The zinc rich version was not color fast degrading due to UV degradation. Thus the two coats. I suspect things have changed since then.

My TA's were severely rusted so I replaced them. Plus the TA bolt would not come out. They must get a lot of chips and flex that exposes the original coating.

Zinc rich primer is still a thing when it comes to powder coating. I've created a few parts at work that call out Sherwin Williams EAS6-C0025. These get top coated in silver to match the finish of surrounding hot dip galvanized parts.

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=EAS6-C0025

[mr_maxime]

Dropped my trailing arms off at the powdercoaters then picked them up a few hours later. Super fast turnaround.

[SBL]

Just something to make it not look so bare. It looks better in person.

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[jackb]

Annual clutch and brake circuit fluid flush.
Also bought a new (second) set of jacks on sale at Oreillys. I’ve been down to one pair since the recall from Harbor Freight earlier this year.

[mr_maxime]

I popped the upper control arm bushings out by hand... don't know why anyone is making all these weird contraptions to push them out :hmm:

https://i.imgur.com/bIS4rek.jpg?1

Also picked up a bunch of parts from the industrial cleaners
https://i.imgur.com/MvwcBdz.jpg?1

[TheStoot]

This past weekend I Changed the manual transmission fluid w 80w90 valvoline gear oil. Took out the original craig radio and cleaned out all the potentiometers and knobs levers with contact cleaner electronic spray to remove all the crackling and speaker on/off issues. Installed poly sway bar bushing in the LCA's. Installed the front stainless license plate bracket so i can pass inspection in the spring. Installed new 3.5" Kicker speakers in the dash, new matching Kicker 4x10's coming in the mail for the rears next week. Annual oil and filter change with 15w40 Rotella T heavy duty diesel oil. Tightened some hose clamps. Installed new cool blue LED's in the AC panel to brighten things up a bit. Replaced the old crinkly vacuum house routing sticker in the engine bay. Took off the washer bottle box to unclog the washer pump from 40 yr old debris and also cleaned out the windshield washer nozzle and attached it to the wiper arm with black rtv adhesive. Finally I took her for a drive around on saturday cause it got up to 40 degrees!
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I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?

[FABombjoy]

Can anyone tell me how to get this right?
The forum software needs to be updated.

You'd have to open this in a graphic editor that ignores the orientation data and rotate it correctly.

[CFI]

Took off the washer bottle box to unclog the washer pump from 40 yr old debris

I did this recently as well. Turned out to be a huge pain in the butt. 7 out of 8 screws were completely rotted. Man I really wish companies would invest in stainless hardware.

[cis6409]

I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?[/QUOTE]


I've had this problem on other forums , try turning off auto rotate and take the pictures in landscape mode only.. dunno if its phone specific but works for me on my last 2 phones.

Shane

[Mark D]

I popped the upper control arm bushings out by hand... don't know why anyone is making all these weird contraptions to push them out :hmm:

https://i.imgur.com/bIS4rek.jpg?1


The upper control arm bushings are a press-fit design so if the bushings could be removed from the arms by hand, that is cause for concern. I see a lot of pitting in the photo which would indicate that there was quite a bit of corrosion prior to cleaning. There is a tight tolerance between the parts to create the interference/press fit to keep the bushing seated in the arm properly and prevent it from rotating.

Once that tolerance is lost and the bushing is free to rotate the control arm, you'll be wearing metal on metal between the bushing and the arm instead of the rubber in the bushing twisting as the suspension articulates.

Since the rubber bushings aren't available separately (unless you're replacing them with poly bushings) I'd seriously be considering replacing the upper control arms. They come as a complete assembly with the bushings already installed.

Otherwise if you are reusing the arms and bushings you'd have to cobble something together to fix the parts so they don't move relative to each other.

- You could reassemble the bushings into the arms and add a couple of tack welds to hold in the bushings in place. (This may burn or degrade the rubber in the bushing due to the heat from welding)

- Or you could weld in some backing plates into the arms that have a smaller ID hole that fits the bushings correctly for a press fit.

[jackb]

I went to replace my shifter linkage bushings. Rear one was shot, but I bought a full set just because. The others don’t have play, but it can’t hurt.
The rear bolt was fucked up and stuck in the shifter extension, I ended up having to remove the extension and cut the bolt with a hacksaw. It was all mushroomed and boogered up the extension, so I ordered a new one.
I also removed the shifter assembly to give it a good cleaning and lube.

[er1c]

Chipping away at the body off restoration.

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Getting pretty close to being able to get the wheels back on and Body/Transmission back in.

[Citizen]

65234
I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?

You should get pics to the proper orientation before you upload and post. Just a few clicks to rotate 90 deg (I used MS Paint to do it). It's not your software or browser. Probably your phone is set to "help" you by trying to detect which way is up when you take the picture, then auto orient when displayed. I always try to take pics in landscape rather than portrait (would have stopped the sides of your beautiful car from being cut off).

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Hope this helps.

...

[TheStoot]

Thanks, I will shut off the auto orientation on my phone and see if that fixes things. I had tried using the editor on my phone to rotate the pics all sorts of ways and then uploading every single once that i rotated in a different way and it did nothing. Update the forum to fix this, it's almost 2021!

[Gregadeth]

Installed aluminum bars to fix the eyebrow issue
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Main reason for removing the fascia was to adjust the reinforcement bar to close down the fascia-fender gaps. Hood was also pulled back to avoid any rubbing. Before and after pics:
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Still not 100% perfect, but as long as it doesn't get worse over time I can live with it.

Repainted the fascia before reinstallation
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[Lwanmtr]

Looks nice.

[cis6409]

Great job tidyed up very nice..:) What color/shade of grey did you use?

[fmj78]

I killed it...

https://youtu.be/q4TVESHGyVc

[Gregadeth]

Looks nice.


Great job tidyed up very nice..:) What color/shade of grey did you use?Thanks guys. I used SEM Bumper Coater 39253 Titanium.

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks guys. I used SEM Bumper Coater 39253 Titanium.

hehe..I started a trend..thats the same I used when I repaired my fascias few years ago

[jackb]

The replacement shifter extension (108295) arrived yesterday so I installed it this evening and took a quick test drive with the new shifter linkage bushings installed. Goddamn, feels like a new car.

[Michael]

Thanks guys. I used SEM Bumper Coater 39253 Titanium.

Very nice finish. I really like the matt sheen. I would highly suggest the SEM clear top coat(either matt or semi gloss depending on your preference). It will not only help the paint from chalking out prematurely but it will help keep it from getting a modeled look and preserve that perfect uniform sheen.

[Lenny]

We gave my granddaughter a car detail for Xmas cost $90.00. He comes to your house and does the car in your driveway. He came today and saw my DeLorean in the garage. He went nuts. I took him for a quick ride around the block.

When he got back he asked if I wanted him to do the DeLorean. I told him not really there aren't any shows coming up and it's pretty clean. He then said Please I'll do it for $30.00. He then said he has to work on a lot of cars he doesn't care for and he would like to work on a car he really likes. I gave in 30 plus I gave him an extra 20. There were some hard water spots on the hood from opening the garage door after the sprinklers got it wet. He couldn't get them off. I grabbed my Bar Keepers Friend and took them off. He rewashed the hood and fenders. He then said he never used Bar Keepers Friend on a car before ;)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put my door panels back on. I had them off to adjust the locks and replace the door lights. I don't think you can pull the door light connectors without pull the door panels. Also learned the upper panel has metal clips on the rear end and front end. I missed the rear end on the first door and front end on the second door so had to pull it again.

[Victor]

Put my door panels back on. I had them off to adjust the locks and replace the door lights. I don't think you can pull the door light connectors without pull the door panels. Also learned the upper panel has metal clips on the rear end and front end. I missed the rear end on the first door and front end on the second door so had to pull it again.

Oh, I didn’t know the upper door panel had front metal clip. Both of my panels have rear clip but none in the front. They are held with pop rivets are the rear, that I can see. They seems to hold well though.
Both of my panels are at the upholstery shop. I ‘ll check them to see this when they’re done.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Oh, I didn’t know the upper door panel had front metal clip. Both of my panels have rear clip but none in the front. They are held with pop rivets are the rear, that I can see. They seems to hold well though.
Both of my panels are at the upholstery shop. I ‘ll check them to see this when they’re done.

The front is just a metal tab like the two in the middle. I guess is goes in the right place most of the time. This time it stuck into the air vent. The back clip is a pain to get in but it's more obvious.

[iflights]

16 degrees F here in Michigan, but sunny so it felt like 17. Woke up the car in storage and took her for an hour drive. Started right up, and ran fantastic. Looking forward to car show season this year.

[WHO1DMC]

16 degrees F here in Michigan, but sunny so it felt like 17. Woke up the car in storage and took her for an hour drive. Started right up, and ran fantastic. Looking forward to car show season this year.

Fingers crossed and knock on wood we have a better car show season this year!! I only made it to one last year because it wasn't canceled.



Dave B.

[Timeless]

16 degrees F here in Michigan, but sunny so it felt like 17. Woke up the car in storage and took her for an hour drive. Started right up, and ran fantastic. Looking forward to car show season this year.
Living in Detroit for 35 years I remember those days! Thankfully residing in S. Florida now. :nana1:

[TheStoot]

Installed aluminum bars to fix the eyebrow issue
6529165292

Main reason for removing the fascia was to adjust the reinforcement bar to close down the fascia-fender gaps. Hood was also pulled back to avoid any rubbing. Before and after pics:
6529365294
6529565296
Still not 100% perfect, but as long as it doesn't get worse over time I can live with it.

Repainted the fascia before reinstallation
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Hey man I like the way your fascia came out repainted! I gotta redo mine now that i had a little bump in with mine and chipped some paint off. What did you do to prep it first before painting? did you seal/clear coat it at all afterwards? just looking for some advice before i do mine!

[Gregadeth]

Hey man I like the way your fascia came out repainted! I gotta redo mine now that i had a little bump in with mine and chipped some paint off. What did you do to prep it first before painting? did you seal/clear coat it at all afterwards? just looking for some advice before i do mine!Hey, thanks! Admittedly, I took the somewhat easier route. I just used sandpaper sheets and hand sanded it down as much as I could. I didn't do primer or a clear coat. Did about 5 or 6 sprays of base coat. One can should be enough, but if you're doing both fascias, I'd get a backup spray can just in case. Also good to hang onto for touch-ups later.

I had repainted them back in 2018 the same way, so this was my 2nd time doing them. The paint started to fade and chip but I also had my car parked under the sun every day. Now it's under a car cover, so I expect it to last much longer. I think doing a really good prep, and adding a primer as well as a clear coat would help dramatically. But even if you just do what I did and your car is garaged, the paint should last a long time. It's a very inexpensive job and looks great.

[Midnight Specialist]

Put in Dave's HVAC panel and LED headlights.

[TheStoot]

Installed DeLorean Europe style front lowering springs and new shock top bushings. Took roll pins and pinned the body of my angle drive back together. Removed the binnacle and installed led's in the turn signals lights and the 5 'white' binnacle lights with leds. Also repainted the binnacle before reinstalling.

[larsmhh]

Installed DeLorean Europe style front lowering springs and new shock top bushings. Took roll pins and pinned the body of my angle drive back together. Removed the binnacle and installed led's in the turn signals lights and the 5 'white' binnacle lights with leds. Also repainted the binnacle before reinstalling.

Hi Stoot,

I am just planning to repaint my binnacle, too. My binnacle (from #1550) shows multiple vertical tears, but very small, like rice grains.
The upper coat of the material is also scaly arount the tears, which are located on the front of the binnacle (towards the windscreen), rather on the passenger side.
I searched this forum for helpful descriptions, what to do and most of the time found the descrption, to cover the binnacle with leather.
But one member (I do not recognize his name) described, that he used SEM Dashboard Coater spray.
SEM is hard to find in Germany, but I did find one company, that sells the SEM products in Germany.
I ordered 1) a product called "6742 Flex-Fill 30g" (to fill up the tears), 2) SEM Lether/Plastik Prep Aerosol (to clean up the binnacle after grinding), 3) SEM Sand Free Aerosol 400 ml (as a precoat) and finallly 4) SEM 15013 Landau Black (Dashboard Coater Aerosol). The products will be delivered soon, but did not yet arrive...

I would like to ask you, if this are the same or similar products you used and if you have a top tip or if there is a problem you encountered.
How is the result of your repaint? Are you satisfied? Did you spray the binnacle with the installed black plastic cover located to the big opening for the instrument cluster or did you remove it before repainting? This cover was very loose on my binnacle, so I could already remove it easily.

If you want, you can PM me some pics!?

Thanks in advance,

best wishes,

Lars.

[CFI]

Recently I hit my 12,000th mile of driving the DeLorean. It took approx. 2 years. No major problems.

[Ron]

Finding cause of loss of rest pressure discussion moved HERE (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?18638-Finding-cause-of-loss-of-rest-pressure)

[Quinn]

I've begun polishing out an annoying arc-shaped scratch across my windshield that was left by one of the previous owners. They must have been using some really old wiper blades. I was actually pretty nervous about doing this, since a lot of the tutorials warn against overheating the glass and cracking the windshield. I went ahead and took my chances with a DA polisher and some 3M polishing compound. It took about 5 applications at about 5 minutes each, before seeing results. I stopped after 10 applications, with some amazing results. It's kind of an awkward position balancing your body over the windshield. I figure that I'll do another 10 rounds before the next time I wash the car. After that, I expect the scratches will be totally gone.

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[Michael]

Found a split axle boot when I replaced my tires a few weeks ago. It must have just happened recently because there wasn't much grease on the surrounding area and I am under there often. Anyway, just to be safe I haven't driven it any till today. I only replaced the boots on the axle that was split because I ran low on time. I will do the other side just for good measure later. Sure was a messy job but the good news was the old grease looked great, wasn't contaminated, and it all went together smoothly.

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[Rich]

Nice photo. From the location of your guide tapes I'll guess the scratch was made by the end of the wiper arm itself, as if the wiper blade was entirely missing for at least one cycle of the wiper. Ouch.

Yes, keep following those instructions to minimize the chance of cracking the glass, especially if you are working just one area of it.

And let us know how it turns out.


I've begun polishing out an annoying arc-shaped scratch across my windshield that was left by one of the previous owners. They must have been using some really old wiper blades. I was actually pretty nervous about doing this, since a lot of the tutorials warn against overheating the glass and cracking the windshield. I went ahead and took my chances with a DA polisher and some 3M polishing compound. It took about 5 applications at about 5 minutes each, before seeing results. I stopped after 10 applications, with some amazing results. It's kind of an awkward position balancing your body over the windshield. I figure that I'll do another 10 rounds before the next time I wash the car. After that, I expect the scratches will be totally gone.

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[fmj78]

https://youtu.be/KK87nAushQw

[Midnight Specialist]

modded the door locks by cutting out the anti-lock wedge and disconnecting the front lock.

[leroylem]

modded the door locks by cutting out the anti-lock wedge and disconnecting the front lock.

new plugs/plug wires--fixed couple minor oil leaks on 2126(327 chevy engine)---short drive today---70 degrees /running nice----come on spring !!!

[CFI]

Today I continued daily driving my car. I’m now averaging about 200 miles per week.

[Victor]

Took her out of winter slumber, and install interior door panel and door headliners.

Happy St-Patrick day! 🍀

[Michael]

Took her out of winter slumber, and install interior door panel and door headliners.

Happy St-Patrick day! ��

Love it! That color is so very retro. All that's needed is some machine finished accents for the ultimate 70's look. That suede armrest cover is perfect!

Edit...I see you already got the silver accents...it's perfect!

[Victor]

Love it! That color is so very retro. All that's needed is some machine finished accents for the ultimate 70's look. That suede armrest cover is perfect!

Edit...I see you already got the silver accents...it's perfect!

Thank you very much Michael! I appreciate!

Cheers 🍻

[joshg]

Installed stylish vent grills in the rear deckboard that covers the relay/fuse compartment.

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Very nice... any chance you'd make more of these and offer up for sale? Do you sense any possible increase in cabin noise coming through this from engine bay area?

[joshg]

I bought a stainless stell shifter plate from a supplier in Germany. The letters DMC were - different to the plates from DMOCO cut out so I filled them up with blue dyed epoxy resin and put a LED backlight from a LCD display behind it. I used the power supply of the automatic shifter plate whic was tehre but unused on my manually shifted car.
It took some time to mechanically adjust, but now it works fine. I hope you like it too :)



645456454764546]

That looks amazing! PM me if you'd be willing to make me one exactly like that for a fee!

[joshg]

Lol! If your DeLorean's horn sounds like any dying animal, it's time to replace both and check the wiring and ground. I replaced both mine with the original Mixo units from DMC when I restored the car. Everybody that hears them is surprised that they are stock.

If that's not loud enough, I have FIAMM "Freeway Blasters" (part numbers 72112 for the low note and 72102 for the high note) in 2 of my other cars. They are just a few decibels louder than normal, and the best thing is that they look just the Mixo horns.
Curious if those FIAMMs would be just plug and play with existing wiring and mounting hardware or would you have to rig up some new mounting brackets/holes?

[Michael]

Finally ordered Toby's intake and throttle spool covers. They tie the engine together nicely but I am a bit bummed about the intake cover. I'm sure with the OE cover there is no gap, but with Hervey's all stainless air cleaner box, it leaves a bit of a gap. I guess I could cold weld a piece in there when I take it off to refinish my intake and horns(next on the to do list).

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[Victor]

Very neat! Such a clean engine bay!!

[L3V3L1]

Swapped out the door lock solenoids for actuators, before installing the wings a loft door openers.

[Michael]

Very neat! Such a clean engine bay!!

Thanks!

I couldn't go the summer with the intake looking like that. I was supposed to work on a buddy's motorcycle but he had to cancel so I pulled all that new stainless stuff back off as well as my finishing panels I made many many years ago that covered that mess up and painted the visible part of my intake. I just did the horns and runners but next winter I will pull it and do it right. This will hold me over.

I used the same paint as I did on my valve covers. It's a nice warm silver that holds up very well.
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[Lwanmtr]

looks awesome. what was the paint?

[Michael]

looks awesome. what was the paint?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81HufBbW6ZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[Lwanmtr]

cool..thanks

[Helirich]

Thanks!

I couldn't go the summer with the intake looking like that. I was supposed to work on a buddy's motorcycle but he had to cancel so I pulled all that new stainless stuff back off as well as my finishing panels I made many many years ago that covered that mess up and painted the visible part of my intake. I just did the horns and runners but next winter I will pull it and do it right. This will hold me over.

I used the same paint as I did on my valve covers. It's a nice warm silver that holds up very well.
]

I've never been one to "dress up" an engine compartment, but I have to say yours looks great.

[Jonathan]

Got the car out for the first lap of the 2021 driving season on Saturday. It started right up and had no issues on the drive. Went for my usual 40 or so mile circuit with a drive thru coffee stop on the route. For being 40 years old, it sure is a lot more reliable than other things/people that age I know.

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[Chris 16409]

My lower engine compartment hasn’t had the rubber bump stops for years. I got some inspiration to make something that would work. I was able to get everything I needed from my local Ace Hardware store. All the pieces were stainless.

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I was missing the threaded insert in the engine cover. I found a functional replacement.

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I used some JB Weld to bond the insert in place.

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[Lwanmtr]

Theres supposed to be rubber bump stops? What are the sizes of the things you got? I should get some for mine..lol

[DMC-Ron]

Thanks!

I used the same paint as I did on my valve covers. It's a nice warm silver that holds up very well.
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Michael,
Did you paint your valve covers in place? The Rust-Oleum paint doesn't have a very high heat rating but you have had no issues with it on the valve covers? I would love to do something to improve my valve covers.
Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Michael,
Did you paint your valve covers in place? The Rust-Oleum paint doesn't have a very high heat rating but you have had no issues with it on the valve covers? I would love to do something to improve my valve covers.
Ron

I also painted my intake and valve covers with Rust-Oleum about 10 years ago and it holds up fine. The only problem is you can't clean it with a solvent or that will take off the paint.

[Michael]

Michael,
Did you paint your valve covers in place? The Rust-Oleum paint doesn't have a very high heat rating but you have had no issues with it on the valve covers? I would love to do something to improve my valve covers.
Ron

It would be very hard to paint them in place. I did them about 6 or 7 years ago while adjusting the valves. I did another valve adjustment last winter and refreshed them. The paint held up surprisingly well. Like Dave said, don't use paint solvents to clean them, degreaser works fine and is really all you need. Here are a few pics I took over the winter. You can see the first pic shows how well my paintjob held up, but while it's off, why not refresh it and make it better?

65830

65831

The covers do get hot, but not super hot. I chose Rustoleum because I figured being an outdoor paint, it had to have some heat resistance.

[DARCOM]

I cleaned every spoke on every wheel.

[mburshtain]

Passed the Smog test today. Now I can rest for two years...living the dream in California. [emoji41]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210324/b6bd3c329362016d9e51afb3864ca2b5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210324/03fd31a9c7c6a820ae385c8548631d4c.jpg

[Helirich]

Does CA not eliminate the smog test after a certain amount of years?

[mburshtain]

Does CA not eliminate the smog test after a certain amount of years?

As of today the California Smog Check Program requires vehicles that were manufactured in 1976 or later to participate in the biennial (every two years) smog check program. This may change by bumping the smog exemption year to 1983 but not sure when...

[SS Spoiler]

rumor has it that Minnesota is going to
emulate the California smog rules....
anybody know for sure?

[WHO1DMC]

rumor has it that Minnesota is going to
emulate the California smog rules....
anybody know for sure?

Minnesota hasn't had smog requirements since 1999. And before that it was required mostly in the Minneapolis saint Paul metropolitan and suburbs. If I'm not mistaken. But by law we're still required to have cats but that's left to your machanic to make sure you have one. That's of course you use one. Ha



Dave B.

[Michael]

Finished my home made tech shirt today. Followed the old DMCH shirt design with a bit of my own flair.

65864

65866

[Chris 16409]

Finished my home made tech shirt today. Followed the old DMCH shirt design with a bit of my own flair.
65866

The Lucas patch is the best!

[Chris 16409]

Passed the Smog test today. Now I can rest for two years...living the dream in California. [emoji41]

Excellent numbers Maor!

[painterdave72]

Took second place in my class!

[Michael]

Took second place in my class!

Very nice. Cleanest throttle spool I ever saw!

[TheStoot]

Installed new DMCH seat covers in gray and installed a 10" Kicker subwoofer with MDF board I custom cut for the cubby behind the driver seat and mounted a 400watt amp behind the flux capacitor to run it.

[Lwanmtr]

Got my custom, hand made fuel tank closing plate the other day....just gotta put it on.

65905

The guy does good work..but hes a bit slow..took months (but he did have to go through a move and some other things, so its ok)..lol

[Kukem]

Started removing the headliners, carpets, back panels over the rear speakers, center console and that nasty foam pad on the parcel shelf. The car had a musty smell from the old foam breaking down. Cleaning the carpets, re-upholstering the headliners, cleaning the vinyl, sanded and repainted the wood to get the smell out and will be installing new speakers and a stereo since I have everything apart. She already smells a hundred times better! (For some reason I can't upload a pic right now... will sort that out soon.)

[leroylem]

recent tune up/plugs/wires---fluids change----sbc running well---drove to breakfast with friends---turned 24k (purchased with 15k) great day to cruise !!

[MacStainless]

65962

A small victory for someone very much not mechanically inclined: Swapped out my OG plastic bottle for a stainless one. Also put in a SS cap & new connector hose.

Additionally, I performed a full relay and fuse update on the car as preventative maintenance.

[Kukem]

A small victory for someone very much not mechanically inclined: Swapped out my OG plastic bottle for a stainless one. Also put in a SS cap & new connector hose.

Additionally, I performed a full relay and fuse update on the car as preventative maintenance.

Nice job! I started out not knowing anything about cars. It comes over time. I always get a bit nervous when it comes to the coolant system. Not sure why. Mine is currently in pieces as I clean and fix some interior issues.

[MacStainless]

Nice job! I started out not knowing anything about cars. It comes over time. I always get a bit nervous when it comes to the coolant system. Not sure why. Mine is currently in pieces as I clean and fix some interior issues.

Thanks! I'm trying to learn but it's slow going as I was out of the DMC game for many years while still owning my car. My knowledge is at very-n00b level right now. Hoping that changes over time. My coolant system will be in pieces on Wednesday when I get it to a local shop. I was able to get a quick pressure test going to find my leak and it's almost-definitely coming from behind the water pump. Of course the one spot I can't attempt to fix on my own. Gotta love it! 😒

[Helirich]

I welded some stainless wing nuts on my aircleaner bolts. Nice to be able to remove the cleaner without tools.

[CFI]

I welded some stainless wing nuts on my aircleaner bolts. Nice to be able to remove the cleaner without tools.

DMCH and DGo sell quick release bolts for the air cleaner.

[DMC81]

6600566006

Tested out the KBS Rust Stop on the closing plate. Not crazy how it looks so I may try and redo it with a spray gun.

[WHO1DMC]

6600566006

Tested out the KBS Rust Stop on the closing plate. Not crazy how it looks so I may try and redo it with a spray gun.

A few years ago I had mine sand blasted and powder coated for less than a hundred bucks.



Dave B.

[Michael]

Installed DGo's switch plate. I had their old one but it was quite flimsy and I was always accidentally turning on my "mood" lights. This one seems pretty nice although I opted to just drill and screw it into place rather than use the zip ties.
66015

Also attached a intake air scoop. With the sealed pontoon intake I put on last year, this is now a true "Ram Air" setup. I can only imagine my top gear 60-100 and 100-140 roll ons will be around 3 seconds now.

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Of course I had to include the matching driver's side for optimum charcoal evap performance. These were kind of an impulse buy and I wasn't sure how I would like them but they do give a hint of bad assness to the car (even if there is more "ass" than "bad").

66019

[AirmanPika]

Destroyed the A/C.

[Helirich]

. I can only imagine my top gear 60-100 and 100-140 roll ons will be around 3 seconds now. ]

"Imagine" being the key word. Lol. Reminds me of a Thunderbird my dad had. We rigged up a ram air and it ran worse. Had to take it off. Of course it was carb. (Carbs don't really like pressured air) In your case, it's possible it could do something. Not sure if I like em or not. Do you have to "hurt" anything to attach them. (Like drill holes)

[Michael]

"Imagine" being the key word. Lol. Reminds me of a Thunderbird my dad had. We rigged up a ram air and it ran worse. Had to take it off. Of course it was carb. (Carbs don't really like pressured air) In your case, it's possible it could do something. Not sure if I like em or not. Do you have to "hurt" anything to attach them. (Like drill holes)

You know I knew those words were yours before I even saw your user name.
Yes I had to drill 16 holes (8 in each panel). The scoops had threaded M8 studs on them and included the appropriate nuts and lock washers. This level of security is necessary because the scoops would be subjected to a lot of stress and wind resistance once the car breaks the 160mph threshold.

[Helirich]

You know I knew those words were yours before I even saw your user name.
Yes I had to drill 16 holes (8 in each panel). The scoops had threaded M8 studs on them and included the appropriate nuts and lock washers. This level of security is necessary because the scoops would be subjected to a lot of stress and wind resistance once the car breaks the 160mph threshold.

Definitely!

Seriously, what's the deal with the antenna? I don't have one. Am I suppose to? I didn't notice any hole there. (I need to look close tomarrow) My radio doesn't work, but I think it's worse than no antenna.

[Michael]

Definitely!

Seriously, what's the deal with the antenna? I don't have one. Am I suppose to? I didn't notice any hole there. (I need to look close tomarrow) My radio doesn't work, but I think it's worse than no antenna.

Antennas had 3 different locations. Early cars had them embedded in the windscreen. Later ones had them in the rear pontoon and then the fender mount(I may have that backwards). If you can't find it, it's probably in the windscreen and I believe that is pretty desirable among the purists.

[Helirich]

Antennas had 3 different locations. Early cars had them embedded in the windscreen. Later ones had them in the rear pontoon and then the fender mount(I may have that backwards). If you can't find it, it's probably in the windscreen and I believe that is pretty desirable among the purists.

Mine is an early car, but I don't think there's one in the windshield. I wonder if it had one and they replaced the windshield with a non-antenna. I have to say, all the glass in my car looks brand new. I have an old VW beetle and that 40+ year old glass doesn't look so great.

[Helirich]

Antennas had 3 different locations. Early cars had them embedded in the windscreen. Later ones had them in the rear pontoon and then the fender mount(I may have that backwards). If you can't find it, it's probably in the windscreen and I believe that is pretty desirable among the purists.


Mine is an early car, but I don't think there's one in the windshield. I wonder if it had one and they replaced the windshield with a non-antenna. I have to say, all the glass in my car looks brand new. I have an old VW beetle and that 40+ year old glass doesn't look so great.

Edit, I'm mistaken. I looked close and there's a hole for the antenna. Not only that, there maybe one down there. I can see a button. I guess that should power up when I switch on the radio. When I turn mine on, the speakers crack a little, but no sound and no display. Also no antenna goes up. Once I get the car running good, I will attack this.

[Michael]

Yesterday my wife and I took a nice long Sunday drive, put about 120 miles on her.

66033
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66036

Today I got bored and tackled a "scary" job. I got the three main hoses early last year during my winter refresh project. I chickened out becauseI thought the bleeding process sounded too daunting to try but today I had a "what the hell attitude".
Turned out to be a piece of cake, mainly because I kept most of the coolant in place and refilled the new hoses before connecting so I had very little air to bleed out of the housing. I believe I will refrain from using too much dressing on them. I think a lot of rubber dressing makes the hoses soft over time.

[Conundrum]

I had my car towed from MD to WV. Now, I can work on it in my new garage. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210419/a2724e47d8dcbf65a585a2dc592330c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210419/903a6794cabc708e05cb8aca44d71419.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210419/9b7583b5d17ea410d8fa9ba98f87b84b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210419/870947e95d9115161da168faeb640768.jpg

[Michael]

Just tinkered today. Made some more professional looking retaining brackets for my air cleaner and decided to dust off my homemade headlight covers. This time though, I removed the velcro from my brackets and covers and epoxied some of my neodymium magnets left over from my transmission filters to the tinted covers. The brackets attach to the bumper using double sided tape so they are non intrusive and metal so the magnets work with them alone. The covers can pop on and off for times when I am motoring about after dark.

I'm considering applying a matt finish on the covers to make them match the grill better.

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66039

[L3V3L1]

Just tinkered today. Made some more professional looking retaining brackets for my air cleaner and decided to dust off my homemade headlight covers. This time though, I removed the velcro from my brackets and covers and epoxied some of my neodymium magnets left over from my transmission filters to the tinted covers. The brackets attach to the bumper using double sided tape so they are non intrusive and metal so the magnets work with them alone. The covers can pop on and off for times when I am motoring about after dark.

I'm considering applying a matt finish on the covers to make them match the grill better.

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66039
Matte stripes. 👍

[L3V3L1]

DeLorean Go stainless louvre struts. LOVE these, wish I would have ordered the entire set. The opening sounds and motion is just incredible. They even come with stainless hardware.

[Helirich]

Just tinkered today. Made some more professional looking retaining brackets for my air cleaner and decided to dust off my homemade headlight covers. This time though, I removed the velcro from my brackets and covers and epoxied some of my neodymium magnets left over from my transmission filters to the tinted covers. The brackets attach to the bumper using double sided tape so they are non intrusive and metal so the magnets work with them alone. The covers can pop on and off for times when I am motoring about after dark.

I'm considering applying a matt finish on the covers to make them match the grill better.

66038
66039

Can't really see them. Are they tinted glass/acrylic? Are the lights too dim if you leave them on?

[DMCMW Dave]

Can't really see them. Are they tinted glass/acrylic? Are the lights too dim if you leave them on?

Hah - the lights are too dim if you leave them off!

[Michael]

Hah - the lights are too dim if you leave them off!

I got halogen H7 conversions :hihi:

[TheStoot]

Installed DMC Houston cooling fan motors and spark plug wires to replace my delorean go wires I had that I found arcing to the mixture unit.

[Helirich]

I got halogen H7 conversions :hihi:

I suppose if the covers are acrylic, they could melt/warp. Have you ever driven with them on for extended time? I'm not sure if I like them or not, but I would guess they are easy to clean bugs off. Of course, they add a couple hp in aero dynamics.

[Michael]

I suppose if the covers are acrylic, they could melt/warp. Have you ever driven with them on for extended time? I'm not sure if I like them or not, but I would guess they are easy to clean bugs off. Of course, they add a couple hp in aero dynamics.

I've had them for 6 years. If they haven't warped by now they aren't going to. Besides the whole reason I made them this way was so I could quickly and easily remove them for night driving.

[Helirich]

Filled the tank and drove to a neighboring city. Ran a few errands there and came home. It was 150 miles total. When I was down there I went to a exotic car restaurant for lunch. They have a Lamborghini parked out front and some car stuff inside. I parked and went inside. Multiple people came after me and I watched them walk right by the Lamborghini to look at the D. Ha-ha. Right before I left, two guys parked right next to me in a beautiful 58-59 Corvette.

The car did pretty good. I had a couple issues. First, my AC evaporator would freeze up after ten minutes or so. It would actually block the flow of air out the vents. I had to switch it off for five minutes to melt the ice and turn it back on. Not a big deal, but I need to look into it.

My other issue was the engine losing power after cruising in high gears at slow speeds. I found that I could down shift and rev the motor to about 4500 for a few seconds and then it would run normal again. I assume that's a sign of too rich of mixture. It seemed to run better at high rpms. (i.e., 3000)

All and all, it was a good day. I filled the tank when I got back and found my mpg to be about 15. Is that normal?

[Ron]

Filled the tank and drove to a neighboring city. Ran a few errands there and came home. It was 150 miles total. When I was down there I went to a exotic car restaurant for lunch. They have a Lamborghini parked out front and some car stuff inside. I parked and went inside. Multiple people came after me and I watched them walk right by the Lamborghini to look at the D. Ha-ha. Right before I left, two guys parked right next to me in a beautiful 58-59 Corvette.

The car did pretty good. I had a couple issues. First, my AC evaporator would freeze up after ten minutes or so. It would actually block the flow of air out the vents. I had to switch it off for five minutes to melt the ice and turn it back on. Not a big deal, but I need to look into it.

My other issue was the engine losing power after cruising in high gears at slow speeds. I found that I could down shift and rev the motor to about 4500 for a few seconds and then it would run normal again. I assume that's a sign of too rich of mixture. It seemed to run better at high rpms. (i.e., 3000)

All and all, it was a good day. I filled the tank when I got back and found my mpg to be about 15. Is that normal?Glad to hear you are getting some fun out of it now.
Either there is not enough air flowing through the evaporator to begin with or your refrigerant is low.
Forget about mileage until you get the new pressure gauge set. :deviltail:

[Helirich]

Glad to hear you are getting some fun out of it now.
Either there is not enough air flowing through the evaporator to begin with or your refrigerant is low.
Forget about mileage until you get the new pressure gauge set. :deviltail:

Today I used your "how to" and set the mixture with a dwell meter. Just took it out for a test drive. WooHoo! Got in to 5th gear and let it dwindle down to 1500 rpm. Gave it gas and off it went! I couldn't believe it. Drove down the back road about 75. I have to tell you all, I only adjusted the mixture about a 1/4 turn. The differnce is amazing.

On top of that, I gave her a blast of R22 and the AC is working without freezing.

You guys know I have a new corvette sitting out front? That sucker can rot. Ha-ha

I gatta go and see what else I'm going to order for the car. I think lower control arm braces and vented discs are looking promising. Yee-Ha!

[Michael]

Drove down the back road about 75. I have to tell you all, I only adjusted the mixture about a 1/4 turn. The differnce is amazing.
1/4 turn is a LOT! I'm surprised it would even start being that far out.

[Helirich]

This day keeps getting better.
After my last post, I decided to pull out the power antenna. After removing the canister, I saw a problem right away. Two of the wires were ripped out. I hooked 12 volts to one and up went the antenna. So I went looking for the wires up front where they go in the back wall. They looked fine there. After a bit of studying, I found how to remove the back panel. Pulled it off and there were the ripped wires.

But that's not all! The speaker cover was wedged out a bit. I looked closer and it was held out by my hood release handle! I was wondering why mine didn't have one. I still don't have the catch on the hood. (I guess they removed it because they didn't want locked out with no handle. Lol. (I'll be ordering that tomarrow)

I strung new wires and oiled the antenna up real good. Ran it up and down four or five times and now it works great. Pulled the car out of the shop and tuned in the presets. Now my radio has 1.2 gigawatts of power.

[Ron]

Now my radio has 1.2 gigawatts of power.
Na, you have all of your presets on classic stations....

[Helirich]

I went to my first car show today. I got there kind late and there was no place to park. So I parked in a bank lot that was next to the main show. I was in the third row of cars in that lot and I was basically parking someone in. There was a guy sitting in a lawn chair behind the car next to the one I park in. I asked if he knew the owner and he said the guy walked away. I told him if the guy comes back, tell him I'm just going to make a quick tour of the show and I'll be back.

I toured about two thirds of the show (it was a big show) and stoped back to see if I needed to move the car. The lawn chair guy said the other guy has not been back. So I went and got a hot dog and sat in the bank entrance to eat. I watched something funny repeat itself many times. My car was so far back and so low compared to the cars in front that nobody could see it while waking along. There was a car in front of mine that was a 50's "cop car". It had a life size cardboard cutout of Barnie Fithe next to it. People would walk along and see Barnie and walk back to look at him or take a pic with him. When they got back there, they would see my car and say "hey, there's a Delorean back here". It was comical how many times this happened.

Anyways, I finished my lunch and went to see the rest of the show. When I came back this time, there was a crowd of people around my car. When I walked up, the lawn chair guy says "there's the owner". Immediately a few of the people came up to me and said they were officials of the show and asked why I parked back there where hardly anybody could see the car. I told them "nobody guided me and I didn't see any better place to park". They told me that they would like me to move the car to the center of the show. Lol. I thanked them, but said I was leaving now.

So I guess it made a good impression. The car drove flawless there and back. With only some slight freezing of the AC evaporator.

[Mark D]

I drove my car for the second time this year. Moved it about 25 feet forward out of my garage so I could get my riding mower out, and then reversed back into place.

So if I've got my math right, I've got around 100 ft so far this driving season.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66260&d=1620316016

[TheStoot]

I drove my car for the second time this year. Moved it about 25 feet forward out of my garage so I could get my riding mower out, and then reversed back into place.

So if I've got my math right, I've got around 100 ft so far this driving season.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66260&d=1620316016

Why aren't you driving your car??

[Helirich]

I drove my car for the second time this year. Moved it about 25 feet forward out of my garage so I could get my riding mower out, and then reversed back into place.

So if I've got my math right, I've got around 100 ft so far this driving season.
]

I hope you use non ethanol with "stable".

Edit, you really should at least warm it up to operating temp every few months.

[Mark D]

Why aren't you driving your car??

It's a combination of things really. My daily commute to work is around 130 miles round trip, so I've got my daily driver car(s) for that. It doesn't make sense to put a bunch of highway miles on the DeLorean and let it bake out in a parking lot all day.

It's parked in that detached garage in my back yard so getting it out is inconvenient for random trips to the store or wherever. I've got to open up the gate in my fence, make sure the dog doesn't escape, etc.

I've got two young kids and my free time has been booked with projects and other stuff lately, so I don't have much down time to go for a pleasure drive.

My wife also works the night shift on the weekend. So while she sleeps during the day, I'm hanging out with the kids and driving Mom's car w/ the car seats if we go anywhere.

The main time I would be free to drive it is on weekdays after the kids are in bed but at that point it's dark outside.

Or I could drive it on the rare weekends when my wife doesn't work, but then we're typically all hanging out as a family. I'd be gong for a solo drive to take it to run an errand or something, or just a point A back to point A trip.

In years past my wife and I would take it out on date night when the grandparents were watching the kids, but then COVID happened.

I'm cool with the situation though and I do take the kids for a drive every once in a while. They're getting older and starting to take interest. Last year I did drive it to work a few times and put a couple hundred miles on.

[Mark D]

I hope you use non ethanol with "stable".

Edit, you really should at least warm it up to operating temp every few months.

Yeah I'm running premium non-ethanol gas with sta-bil. Yesterday I let it run for probably 20 minutes between pulling it out and backing it in. It has to come out every time I get out the riding mower, so typically I'll take it for a drive as a reward for finishing the lawn. I'll drive through town and do a hot lap up and down the freeway to get it up to temp, turn on the the A/C, and get all the other fluids moving. I just didn't have time yesterday.

It gets used frequently enough during the summer to keep it reasonably maintained and then during the winter months it's in hibernation mode.

[Michael]

In short Helirich, Mark has priorities and there are a lot of things more important to him than a stupid little plastic car.

[Mark D]

LOL yeah, i guess that's a simpler way of putting it.

[Helirich]

Yeah I'm running premium non-ethanol gas with sta-bil. Yesterday I let it run for probably 20 minutes between pulling it out and backing it in. It has to come out every time I get out the riding mower, so typically I'll take it for a drive as a reward for finishing the lawn. I'll drive through town and do a hot lap up and down the freeway to get it up to temp, turn on the the A/C, and get all the other fluids moving. I just didn't have time yesterday.

It gets used frequently enough during the summer to keep it reasonably maintained and then during the winter months it's in hibernation mode.

It sounds like you use it enough to not be an issue.

[TheStoot]

LOL yeah, i guess that's a simpler way of putting it.

That all sounds good. I didn't mean to sound like a dick when asking why you don't drive it. I'm just trying to figure out why people have certain things, especially cars that require maintenance and upkeep and storage sometimes and don't drive them. Your story makes complete sense. I also have 2 small kids, but my oldest one is now 6 so we literally take the Delorean anywhere and everywhere we go together as I give him the choice of the car he wants to go in. It's always the DeLorean. I hope you get to spend more time with it this summer and I hope covid dies down so we can all get out more and enjoy!

[TheStoot]

So yesterday I got home and went back to trying to diagnose my faulty lambda system/non functioning frequency valve issues. I got a spare Lambda ecu from a new Delorean friend of mine in the town next door and swapped it out. Bam, I now got a working lambda system and frequency valve! I did also have to swap out the O2 sensor as mine had been toasted from running the car so rich. Hooked up the dwell meter and dialed in the dwell just between 15-20 on the 8cyl scale and took it for a drive around town and down the highway a few miles. My car hasn't performed this well since i've owned it. I've never had a problem with it running or starting or anything, but the lambda system just never worked at all so i figured i'd see what happened when and if I got it going. I can say it literally feels like I got 15-20 more horsepower now. Highway driving is night and day. Lower rpms, say 2k, would feel like a struggle to go anywhere in 5th gear. Now it just pulls and shows even power throughout the rpm range. I am quite pleased by this little car now that everything is running the way it should have been. I had driven the car almost 3000 miles like this before I fixed it and just figured it was what it was. Now that it's back in shape I love it. My idle did Jump up a bit after I come to a stop so I gotta figure out why that is happening. It almost seems like that idle motor isn't closing down all the way or slow to respond. I got dave mckeens idle ecu so i'll have to diagnose it a bit but holy hell, I can now say this is a pretty quick little car buzzing around town, especially with a 5 speed.

This afternoon she goes in for an alignment seeing how I changed out the tie rods over the winter. Hopefully my little shake around 70mph will get sorted a bit with a proper alignment!:)

[Mark D]

That all sounds good. I didn't mean to sound like a dick when asking why you don't drive it. I'm just trying to figure out why people have certain things, especially cars that require maintenance and upkeep and storage sometimes and don't drive them. Your story makes complete sense. I also have 2 small kids, but my oldest one is now 6 so we literally take the Delorean anywhere and everywhere we go together as I give him the choice of the car he wants to go in. It's always the DeLorean. I hope you get to spend more time with it this summer and I hope covid dies down so we can all get out more and enjoy!

No worries, glad to hear you're getting out with your kids too for some fun drives. My oldest daughter is also 6. Just curious what you do in terms of car seats... We usually only go for short drives through the park behind my house or around the neighborhood so I'm not really concerned about her just riding in the seat without a booster. Do you do anything in particular with your son for a car seat?

Edit:

Funny story about that actually, one time I was taking her for a ride and when we got back she narked me out to my wife for speeding. She told my wife I was going 15mph and the sign in the park said Speed Limit 10.

[Jonathan]

I drove my car for the second time this year. Moved it about 25 feet forward out of my garage so I could get my riding mower out, and then reversed back into place.

So if I've got my math right, I've got around 100 ft so far this driving season.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66260&d=1620316016

<In my best Cliff Clavin voice from Cheers>

Well, technically, you have zero feet so far on your driving season if you take into account the reverse rotation of the speedometer drive and the front left wheel. It's a little known fact that, ah... lol.

Looking good anyway. Hope to see some more of those beauty sunrise pics you're so good at capturing. :)

[mhanch]

Took my binnacle off. opened the cluster to remove a dead mosquito that has been there since last century, and swapped out the lights for LEDs (except Alt light). I also kept the Headlight and Brights bulbs regular - some folks commented that those are too bright for night driving with LEDs. A few of my bulbs were dead - so nice to have it all working again. and no dead bug.

[MrChocky]

Took my binnacle off. opened the cluster to remove a dead mosquito that has been there since last century, and swapped out the lights for LEDs (except Alt light). I also kept the Headlight and Brights bulbs regular - some folks commented that those are too bright for night driving with LEDs. A few of my bulbs were dead - so nice to have it all working again. and no dead bug.

Yeah, they are. My fault for getting "SuperBrightLEDs". In this particular case, I'd prefer some "NoQuiteSoBrightLEDs".

[mhanch]

Yeah, they are. My fault for getting "SuperBrightLEDs". In this particular case, I'd prefer some "NoQuiteSoBrightLEDs".

Yeah, after doing the AC panel it's a bit too bright. I have the Jumper in place so it only comes on with the headlights. it would be nice to maybe drop the brightness - i'm wondering if a resistor of some sort in the jumper could do that? The dimmer has no effect on the AC panel.

[MrChocky]

Yeah, after doing the AC panel it's a bit too bright. I have the Jumper in place so it only comes on with the headlights. it would be nice to maybe drop the brightness - i'm wondering if a resistor of some sort in the jumper could do that? The dimmer has no effect on the AC panel.

Given how cheap the LEDs are, I'd probably just be looking at some less bright ones, rather than messing with wiring.

I don't know about the A/C panel dimming, but I've got DM's dome light dimmer yet to fit. The only incandescents left on my car are the highbeams and the battery bulb.

[DARCOM]

Changed out my radiator and fans. Took a couple of hours to take it out but 3 days to put it back in. Cleaning and freshening up.

[kinvilje]

I recently changed out my stock suspension system with DMC’s upgrade. A noticeable upgrade and improvement! Highly recommend.
https://store.delorean.com/gt100110-eibach-spring-shock-set-1.html

[CyberBill]

I got my 2-post Bendpak lift delivered last Monday, spent a few hours over the week opening it up and moving it around. Good thing I was able to rent a Bobcat with a fork attachment - these things are HEAVY! I had a neighbor come over and help me get the posts upright, and then spent the weekend getting it all setup. I've got it all together except for the electrical - I have to run some wire all the way across the shop, and that means picking up a new skill I don't have: conduit bending!

If all goes well, I think by this next weekend I'll have the lift all working and I'll be able to tackle a few jobs:

* Figure out why the car won't start! Was running great last week, now the starter doesn't make any noise. I suspect a bad ground.
* Replace lower speedo cable
* Replace both hand brake cables
* Investigate some squeaks in the rear
* Oh yeah, replace the transmission!!

[Henrik]

Replaced my AC compressor. No slurpy sound from the vacuum pump after about 10 minutes... that's a good sign. Charged it up and the AC is spitting ice cubes again.

(The pic is taking from below the car and up. It needs to be rotated 90deg to the right.)

66292

[TheStoot]

So this weekend I finally got my Lambda system working! I had previously tried a different frequency valve (mine never buzzed since I got the car) and an O2 sensor but those did nothing. I was able to try a different Lambda ECU and Bam, frequency valve started buzzing! Now I have driven this car over 2000 miles since october without a working lambda system so I figured that this was just the way my car was going to be. I changed out the O2 sensor again and dialed in my dwell and took it for a drive and it's got much more power than it had in the past. My exhaust doesn't pop off when i let off the gas anymore (5-speed). For anyone who might be in the same position I was with a lambda system or frequency valve that doesn't work, def try and fix it because it makes a quite a difference in the way your car will run and perform. I thought my car ran great before but I was wrong. I never had idle issues or starting issues or anything either.

Also Installed one of those USB charger cigarette lighter replacements that also shows your battery voltage. Pretty easy install, just gotta grind the hole a little bit bigger to fit the new one in, but only a 1/16th of an inch or less. Not a bad little upgrade as I never really used the stock cigarette lighter for anything and If I did, I needed to plug in an adapter that converted it to usb ports.

This week I have new fuel lines for the frequency valve and the return line from the fuel distributor to the hard line coming in. I had never replaced those because my frequency valve never worked so I figured why bother? I also ordered the ribbed headlight trim piece for in between the headlights cause Seeing the gaps always bothered me so that'll get done too.

Now I'm just looking forward to the end of the month when the car shows really start to kick off, and we also have our NERD (North East Regional Delorean) tech day coming up to help others with some installs of parts that they've been collecting and waiting to install

[Mark D]

Hope to see some more of those beauty sunrise pics you're so good at capturing. :)

Finally got out for an evening drive.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66293&d=1620781649

[Jonathan]

Finally got out for an evening drive.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66293&d=1620781649

Nice!

Not sure why I said sunrise instead of sunset... must have been in some kind of COVID brain fog, lol.

66303

[MrChocky]

Installed DM's fuel sender ECU, using stock sender.

66304

[Helirich]

I just finished installing wheel bearings, vented discs, coilovers and lower control arm braces on the front of the car. It all turned out pretty good.

While I had it apart I did some tests that might interest you guys. With the swaybar removed, you can pull the lower control bar front and back quite easily. (Scary) This is the supposed "flaw" that the braces fix. I did the same test with the sway bar in place and it was impossible to move the arm by hand. I was able to move it slightly with a ratchet strap. Undoubtably, the braces are a good upgrade, but if your swaybar mounts are in good shape, it might not be as necessary. I would recommend that anybody not installing braces to keep a close eye on your swaybar mounts.

In the test drive after all the work was done, it appeared that my brakes work better. Since the Deloreango kit uses the same caliper and the swept area and diameter are the same, I wouldn't really expect much improvement. The main benifit should be from multiple applications. (Which I didn't test) Probably, my oem discs were to scared from rust.

I also pulled my dead clock out and installed the change holder from DMC. While I was in there, I replaced the cigarette lighter with a new socket. (My lighter didn't work either) In the case of the lighter, there wasn't any wires in the console to power it. The bottom of the socket was gone. I did some testing and found that the clock wiring was still functional and used it for power to the lighter. I imagine I won't have allot of power available with the clock power, but it works the lighter and a GPS I tested. I really liked the short unobtrusive lighter that Delorean used, but it wouldn't fit in the new socket. (I was warned of this in another thread) I will be on the lookout for a differnt lighter that is closer to stock.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My car has always felt to sensitive on the steering at cruse speeds. It's like fighting the steering just to drive straight. No effort to move the wheel. So I adjusted the toe in 1/2 a turn on each wheel and I think it fixed that problem.

[Ron]

In the case of the lighter, there wasn't any wires in the console to power it. The bottom of the socket was gone. I did some testing and found that the clock wiring was still functional and used it for power to the lighter. I imagine I won't have allot of power available with the clock power, but it works the lighter and a GPS I tested.Normally, the wire feeding the clock is the same one feeding the lighter (purple).
It's fed by fuse 17 (20 Amps). :smile:

[Helirich]

Normally, the wire feeding the clock is the same one feeding the lighter (purple).
It's fed by fuse 17 (20 Amps). :smile:

There were four wires going to the clock on mine. I used the red and black ones. (Seemed right at the time) I cut the other two off and taped them up.

[Ron]

There were four wires going to the clock on mine. I used the red and black ones. (Seemed right at the time) I cut the other two off and taped them up.The OEM clock has red, black, green and a blue wires of its own. The purple goes to that red.

[iflights]

Replaced front sway bar and lower control arm bushings with DPNW poly kit. I've got to believe what I took out, or fell out with no effort were likely the original factory components. Very happy with the results.

[MrChocky]

Today I started the restoration of 1005, even though I just have parts, and not the car yet.

6645066451

[JavaRacer]

I finally finished my stereo upgrade!! Last thing today, was to complete the subwoofer install in the storage cubby. I built a whole new door out of thicker, quality hardwood, plywood. I then transferred original carpet/trim from a new door from DMC. All buttoned up, the install is totally stealth!
6645366454664556645666457

[Michael]

I finally finished my stereo upgrade!! Last thing today, was to complete the subwoofer install in the storage cubby. I built a whole new door out of thicker, quality hardwood, plywood. I then transferred original carpet/trim from a new door from DMC. All buttoned up, the install is totally stealth!
6645366454664556645666457


https://media1.tenor.com/images/55e378fb98759964a879885ef76dd774/tenor.gif?itemid=13277537

[Gabe]

Hi, I have owned my 81 Delorean for the past eight years and had to replace the water pump could anyone please tell me where does these two 6 star cap screws or bolts I attached picture of go to... Thanks in advance for any help...

[CyberBill]

I made a post in my personal thread, but not here, so here it goes!

I have always had issues with my DeLorean being slow, unresponsive, and it gets bogged down going up hills and things. This is the first time I've done any kind of fiddling around with the power train, and I suspected that the Frequency Valve wasn't working. It was definitely NOT working when tested, and I was able to clean up the wiring to it and get it buzzing again. It's a night and day difference! Way more power, it doesn't bog down when going up small hills, it now revs past 2k RPM when under load. Still not a fast car, but much faster.

Today I also put in an order for all the stuff needed to replace the main +12v and ground lines from the battery and to the major components (starter, alternator, bulkhead, frame, etc), and I'll probably jump into installing that next weekend.

[Gabe]

I had same issues drove me insane till I did something so simple as to replace distributor cap and rotor. Also adjusted timing..

[84Impulse]

I had same issues drove me insane till I did something so simple as to replace distributor cap and rotor. Also adjusted timing..

Is there anythg else that can be done to make the D a little more peppy? Not talking turbos or nitrous, lol

[Jonathan]

Is there anythg else that can be done to make the D a little more peppy? Not talking turbos or nitrous, lol

I'm of the opinion that getting all systems and features working as intended is the best approach to getting the peppiness back. Fuel system being the first, transmission a close second.

[FABombjoy]

I'm of the opinion that getting all systems and features working as intended is the best approach to getting the peppiness back. Fuel system being the first, transmission a close second.
This can't be overstated. In my pre-turbo days I once regained 44hp on the dyno just getting the fuel correct. The car drove there and seemed to run well enough beforehand.

I tried to rent out my "magic 44hp" allen wrench but the Camaro/Mustang/Corvette guys weren't buying it.

[84Impulse]

I'm of the opinion that getting all systems and features working as intended is the best approach to getting the peppiness back. Fuel system being the first, transmission a close second.

Thanks, I like that idea! I once used a gas additive to my NA Benz Cls63 before and it really made a noticable difference. Forgot the name, but im assuming it was an octane booster.

[Henrik]

Destroyed the A/C.

What happened?

[82DMC12]

Haven't participated in this thread in quite a while but I'm getting back into working my car. Today I did a really quick update and cleaned up my air intake. Way long ago I got rid of the chimney pipe junk when I switched to headers. At that time I found some funky intake hose make out of plastic fabric and basically a slinky. Hey, it worked. But then Painterdave showed me a better 3" intake hose by Spectre. Only about $14 and just put it in tonight. It comes with a rubber boot that fits snugly over the original plastic hose adapter that goes on the air filter box. On the other side, the plastic adapter end fits nicely into the pontoon though I did add a few wraps of electrical tape to make a tighter fit. You'll have to remove the factory edging that goes into the pontoon hole. I also decided not to use the original intake hose clamp since it's not necessary. Just more clutter removed.

66511

[cdmcali]

Just had a bunch of work done to the car and decided it was finally time to do a stereo upgrade so I could have Bluetooth and handsfree. It is a VDO Bluetooth/aux/USB headunit. I tried to get something that had the 80s look. Super happy with it on my 1 hour and 1/2 drive home

66512

Here are the links if interested:
Headunit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vdo-parts/radio-orange-display-usb-mp3-wma-12v-vdo/tr7412ub-or~con/
Wiring Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V7B58WL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[gulwng3]

I had my painted car vinyl wrapped a couple of months ago so I decided to wrap the top of the air cleaner also. I think it works.

Andy

[Riley88]

Decided it was time to redo my seats. Have the new skins from dmch and just pulled the seats from the car

[Ras12]

I had my painted car vinyl wrapped a couple of months ago so I decided to wrap the top of the air cleaner also. I think it works.

Andy

PM Sent

[Stainless]

Got my new Hankook tires delivered and subsequently installed on the wheels. Will be putting them on the car later today and might consider putting it back on the ground for the first time in several months.

[dmcerik]

I got around to re-crimping the ground that attaches to the passenger trailing arm. Things looked good, but the moment I touched that wire I could tell it was just hanging out in that bracket. So I removed it all, cleaned stuff up, crimped it, put it all back together and things are good.

Also while I was down there I decided to change the manual transmission fluid. The stuff that was in there looked good coming out. That whole process makes me want a lift or a pit in my garage.

[84Impulse]

Got my new Hankook tires delivered and subsequently installed on the wheels. Will be putting them on the car later today and might consider putting it back on the ground for the first time in several months.


Let us know how they look! If the deal works out on the D im looking at i will have to replace the original tires

[84Impulse]

I had my painted car vinyl wrapped a couple of months ago so I decided to wrap the top of the air cleaner also. I think it works.

Andy

Im usually repulsed by this, but it looks good!! :)

[painterdave72]

taking off the old seat skins from an early 81 car with a black interior... the skins were burgundy and dyed black.. as they are still burgundy on the inside edges .... some other parts of this early 81 were also burgundy showing thru the worn off black dye such as the rear armrest pieces.. so this shows that they were thinking of the burgundy interior in the begining....

[painterdave72]

of the seat and skins

[Jonathan]

I'm well past the point of no return on my crankshaft pulley plus other stuff work. The new pulley is in and it went pretty well. Took the fascia and muffler off as well as the alternator and starter. Lots of room to work. I have the starter back in now too and was working on replacing the battery cables.

Ugh.

Jump post cable was fine. The positive cable that goes to the battery is being a pain in the butt. The routing of it might be straight forward enough, but add to it some clips and things holding it to the frame and some hoses or other things out of their own position and it's been a challenge to get the old one out.

Question: does anyone have a picture of how the positive cable is supposed to be routed just in and around the area that is directly underneath the bulkhead connectors cover? It disappears under the body at this point and there is not a ton of extra space. I am finding that one of my heater hoses (I think it is a heater hose) is right next to it and perhaps too close like it's in the wrong spot. I am trying to wiggle this really rigid cable in just the right way to get it out along with the clumsy loop on the end of it and it is not going well.

I'd love to see some pics of how other people have this area routed with that battery cable and the heater hose and the reinforcing bar that goes from side to side as it also attaches to the frame right there in case there wasn't already enough stuff to fit into one spot.

[DARCOM]

I had seat cloth covers over them for years. Found a few labels.

[L3V3L1]

I finally disconnected and reconnected the battery at noon. My clock now shows the correct time, for the first time, in years! 😂

[nkemp]

I finally disconnected and reconnected the battery at noon. My clock now shows the correct time, for the first time, in years! 😂

Let's make this complicated :)... an Arduino with GPS time base programmed to cycle power to the clock precisely at noon each day.

[Patrick C]

Hit my car with several blending pads:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66618&d=1624477827

Swapped out my muffler brackets for DMCH refurbs, polished my UK exhaust and heat shield, cleaned my oil pan with aluminum cleaner. Looking better than it has in years.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66609&d=1624477293

Also painted my tollbooth window frames and door locks with Trim Black.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66616&d=1624477637
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66617&d=1624477657
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66614&d=1624477584
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66615&d=1624477608

[Lwanmtr]

Looks very nice. I will have to do that to mine one of these days. Whats best to use?

[Patrick C]

Looks very nice. I will have to do that to mine one of these days. Whats best to use?

Thank you! SEM Trim Black is the paint I use. Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish is what I used on the muffler and heat shield.

[Helirich]

Could you give me a review of the U.K. Exhaust? (Fit, sound, vibration, anything you can think of)

[Lwanmtr]

Thank you! SEM Trim Black is the paint I use. Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish is what I used on the muffler and heat shield.

I meant what'd you use for the blending pads.

Yeah SEM Trim black is the go to on that.. I also used SEM Titanium for my fascias :)

[Helirich]

On my latest trip, the brake light turned on intermittently. I checked the handbrake and it was down. Since I had worked on the brakes recently, I was concerned. I ended up unpacking the compartment and checking the resivour. It was full. Today I took it all apart and cleaned the connections, but I still don't really see what could be the problem.

Anyways I decided that the cover was in need of redesign. The stupid hole is not big enough to unplug the sensor and remove the cap if you need to add fluid. So I cut a bigger hole. Actuall, I cut a second hole the same size to make it oblong.

66623

Then I cut a piece of aluminum to fit over.

66624

It just spins on one mount bolt to cover the resivour. It's much stronger then that silly piece of rubber.

66622

[Jonathan]

On my latest trip, the brake light turned on intermittently. I checked the handbrake and it was down. Since I had worked on the brakes recently, I was concerned. I ended up unpacking the compartment and checking the resivour. It was full. Today I took it all apart and cleaned the connections, but I still don't really see what could be the problem.

Have a read through this for the brake fluid reservoir level switch: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15745-Brake-fluid-reservoir-level-switch-operation-and-troubleshooting

[Helirich]

Have a read through this for the brake fluid reservoir level switch: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15745-Brake-fluid-reservoir-level-switch-operation-and-troubleshooting

Your description may have solved the mystery. I didn't know about the test button. I think my luggage was pushing the rubber cover into the test button. So I probably fixed the issue without knowing it. I stated this on your thread also for the next guy.

[Patrick C]

I meant what'd you use for the blending pads.

Yeah SEM Trim black is the go to on that.. I also used SEM Titanium for my fascias :)

Ah, yes. I use the finer blending pads that are red in color. Takes a little longer than the coarser grey ones the vendors sell, but I like the finish better.

[MrChocky]

I meant what'd you use for the blending pads.

Yeah SEM Trim black is the go to on that.. I also used SEM Titanium for my fascias :)

Interesting. Why did you choose that color versus the complex blend for the original color (perhaps that
answers the question right there). And how did you strip the old paint and prepare the fascias?
I'm tempted to paint the black section too, if only because I need to fill 3 holes at the front for a
prior license plate.

[Patrick C]

Could you give me a review of the U.K. Exhaust? (Fit, sound, vibration, anything you can think of)

I got my UK exhaust used from a friend overseas, and I believe it is one of the first, if not THE first one that was made by the company. Fit and finish is great, and I love the exhaust note. A nice gurgling when decelerating. A video would not do it justice, but I can say that the newer versions of this exhaust that I’ve heard on other DeLoreans sound different and a bit quieter.

[Lwanmtr]

Interesting. Why did you choose that color versus the complex blend for the original color (perhaps that
answers the question right there). And how did you strip the old paint and prepare the fascias?
I'm tempted to paint the black section too, if only because I need to fill 3 holes at the front for a
prior license plate.

I liked the color, and the way the paint is it will sometimes be lighter or darker than the stainless, depending on how you view it. All I did for prep was to sand it a bit (I also had to repair some cracks) and used self etching primer..a few coats..more sanding, then about 5 or 6 coats of paint (for bot the titanium and trim black.

I still have the holes in my front fascia too, which I will probably leave because washington requires a front plate on the car.

[mhanch]

I liked the color, and the way the paint is it will sometimes be lighter or darker than the stainless, depending on how you view it. All I did for prep was to sand it a bit (I also had to repair some cracks) and used self etching primer..a few coats..more sanding, then about 5 or 6 coats of paint (for bot the titanium and trim black.

I still have the holes in my front fascia too, which I will probably leave because washington requires a front plate on the car.


WA doesn't enforce that for classic cars. My Delorean has never had a front plate, and it was a Washington car since it's original sale. I'd go ahead and fix those holes if you want to.

[nkemp]

...... holes in my front fascia ......

I don't know what they are called but I have these flat'ish round button type things that have a "pin" on the back that inserts into the holes. I think I found them at a hardware store many years ago. They cover the raw hole nicely and look a bit oem. Not as nice as no holes but better that the original holes drilled via screws way back when. And removable if needed.

They are similar to: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-a16122800ux0535-Plastic-Fastener-Bumper/dp/B06XK5D2RY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=uxcell+A15110400ux0112+100+x+7mm+Hole+Pla stic+Rivets+Fastener+Push+Clips+black+for+Car+Auto +Fender+100+Pack&qid=1624649129&s=automotive&sr=1-3

[Lwanmtr]

Be more work..cutting the things out, filling in the holes with upol, yada, yada.. definately something for later if I decide to...few more things left before I can get her hauled up to Toby for the work I cant do myself.

[CyberBill]

It's time to start my EV conversion!!!

I'll be documenting the process on my YouTube channel, and the first video was released today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eCvUGx6OkE

[Lwanmtr]

It's time to start my EV conversion!!!

I'll be documenting the process on my YouTube channel, and the first video was released today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eCvUGx6OkE


Cool...will be following that for sure.. Keep lotsa notes and stuff so I can just copy yours when I go to do my own..lol
Nice research...didnt realize the chevy had that much hp.

[Kukem]

It's time to start my EV conversion!!!

I'll be documenting the process on my YouTube channel, and the first video was released today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eCvUGx6OkE

Awesome! Subscribed for sure.

[Helirich]

I changed my door locks to the same key as the ignition. (My car vin was like ten cars away from the factory doing this) I got the kit from DMC and it seems to work well. One interesting thing, the metal in my doors was not sharp. (I had heard that you tape it up so as not to get cut.) Also there was no plastic sheets in my doors. So maybe the PO removed the plastic and debured the metal at the same time.

Now for a question, what are the tricks for installing the two screws that hold the door pulls on? I used a piece of safety wire tied on the screw and a long screwdriver. It worked, but was a total PITA. Is there a better way? I've never understood designers obsession with hiding fasteners.

[Patrick C]

Now for a question, what are the tricks for installing the two screws that hold the door pulls on? I used a piece of safety wire tied on the screw and a long screwdriver. It worked, but was a total PITA. Is there a better way? I've never understood designers obsession with hiding fasteners.

I put a piece of duct tape over the bolt head to hold it in the socket really tightly.

[Patrick C]

Added Toby’s pretty stainless throttle body cover.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66655&d=1624978354

[Mark D]

Added Toby’s pretty stainless throttle body cover.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66655&d=1624978354

Nice! That looks really clean, and I didn't even know those were available.

Is this the one you got? Shows as out of stock currently, which is unfortunate.

https://www.delorean-parts.com/product/throttle-body-cover-dmc/

EDIT: Nevermind, looks like they are made to order so I just need to make a phone call.

[Patrick C]

Nice! That looks really clean, and I didn't even know those were available.

Is this the one you got? Shows as out of stock currently, which is unfortunate.

https://www.delorean-parts.com/product/throttle-body-cover-dmc/

EDIT: Nevermind, looks like they are made to order so I just need to make a phone call.

Thanks! Yes, I went with the plain one for now and plan to add an EFI badge/logo to mine.

[CyberBill]

Today was the last day that my DeLorean will ever be gas powered. I went for a short drive around the block, then came home and got started on pulling the engine and transmission.

I disconnected the battery, drained the transmission fluid, drained the coolant, took off the rear fascia and internal bumper and rear frame piece, along with various other bits and pieces.

Tomorrow I have to disconnect a few more bits - transmission linkage, vacuum lines, heater core lines, etc - then hoist it up and out.

Oh, before I started the work I used a livestock scale to weigh each corner - 2843lbs with 37.9% on the front wheels. Oddly my front-right and rear-left numbers were higher than the other diagonal by 50lbs on each corner. Not sure why... but the total weight seems very comparable to other data I've seen posted.

[Lwanmtr]

maybe you have weights in those wheels? hehe

[ssdelorean]

I decided to do some preventative maintenance this morning before driving to work and replace the AC Belt. It had some wear on it. I mean, I could have at least gotten 5 to 10 more miles out of it but I changed it anyway.

66750

[Lwanmtr]

I decided to do some preventative maintenance this morning before driving to work and replace the AC Belt. It had some wear on it. I mean, I could have at least gotten 5 to 10 more miles out of it but I changed it anyway.

66750


Thats just a lil wear...lol

[Helirich]

Replaced my axle boots and brake hoses. A lot to get done in one day. But it's back on the road. The axle boots seem to be pretty stiff. I guess that's why the crack/tear. At least my cv joints were in good shape.

[iflights]

Filled the tank with non-ethanol fuel. Not sure what I will be expecting on this tank...improved performance, smoother operation, or just extending the life of the engine. We will see.

[Helirich]

Filled the tank with non-ethanol fuel. Not sure what I will be expecting on this tank...improved performance, smoother operation, or just extending the life of the engine. We will see.

I pretty much always get non-ethanol fuel. Occasionally I'm forced to get ethanol. Can't tell any differnce in performance. Ethanol is bad for some kinds of plastic. I had it ruin a plastic motorhome tank. I hope our tanks are not made from the same stuff. (The motorhome tank was from a 79')

On the subject of fuel, have any of you run Av-gas. It's non-ethanol, but has lead in it. I'm thinking that maybe the lead will lubracate the fuel distributor. On aircraft engines that were designed for leaded gas, you can run premium unleaded, but you need to run a tank of leaded every so often. What was our cars designed to run?

[WHO1DMC]

I pretty much always get non-ethanol fuel. Occasionally I'm forced to get ethanol. Can't tell any differnce in performance. Ethanol is bad for some kinds of plastic. I had it ruin a plastic motorhome tank. I hope our tanks are not made from the same stuff. (The motorhome tank was from a 79')

On the subject of fuel, have any of you run Av-gas. It's non-ethanol, but has lead in it. I'm thinking that maybe the lead will lubracate the fuel distributor. On aircraft engines that were designed for leaded gas, you can run premium unleaded, but you need to run a tank of leaded every so often. What was our cars designed to run?

There should be a sticker at the filler that says unleaded. Gas with lead in it will plug the cat! That's why in the early days people like my dad would cut the cat off to run leaded gas. Plus I think the octane level might be to high.


Dave B.

[Helirich]

There should be a sticker at the filler that says unleaded. Gas with lead in it will plug the cat! That's why in the early days people like my dad would cut the cat off to run leaded gas. Plus I think the octane level might be to high.


Dave B.

Mine has no stickers anywhere. (I should get some for under the engine cover and such)

As far as octane, higher octane hurting an engine is a myth. Too low can be trouble, but not high. The only thing that could possibly be considered bad is it might run alittle rich. Some people think high octane will make the engine run hotter. Not true. It will possibly make it run cooler. (Because richer)

Does your sticker recommend an octane?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Leaded gas has a larger fill pipe on the dispenser. The cars for unleaded put the restricter in the fill pipe to the tank. So you could not fill up with leaded gas unless you removed the restricter.

Lead will plug a CAT and require spark plugs to be cleaned quite often. I would not recommend running low lead aviation fuel in you car.

[Ron]

What was our cars designed to run?
Spec is 91 RON (Euro standard) => 87 (R+M)/2 (US standard)

-Higher than 87 will not help or hurt a D engine (low compression) -- Waste of money.
-Lead will ruin catalytic converters.
-Ethanol SUX for a lot of reasons... But most of us are stuck with it.

[nkemp]

Without getting to deep into ethanol or not ... ethanol will keep things clean.

[Ron]

Without getting to deep into ethanol or not ... ethanol will keep things clean.Agreed, IFF used in properly maintained systems designed for it.
But you know how that goes... :smile:

[82DMC12]

Two weeks ago I was diagnosing a hot start condition and found both my accumulator leaking and a slow seep of fuel coming up from the electrical connector studs on the OEM-style fuel pump. The accumulator was replaced about 15 years ago so I guess that's how it goes. New accumulator on the way. I looked at options to fix my fuel pump leak and of course by now, years since my last foray into the gas tank, the rubber cover that goes over the whole assembly was shrunken up once again and wouldn't go over the pump even if I replaced the pump with a new OEM pump. Everyone is saying to just switch to the new style so that's what I did.

Yesterday I received a new DPI pump and it wasn't too tough to install. The hardest part was installing the weather pack connectors. Fortunately I already had the proper crimp tool from when I replaced my fuse box. The original wires to the pump were so discolored from grit and heat that I had to use a multimeter to confirm which one was the ground LOL. There's very little room to work so I ended up pulling the wires back and working through the brake access cover hole. It was tough to hold the pump down while tightening the V-clamp so I smeared a small amount of light oil on the black gasket so it would slip into the tank easier and I held the pump down with a small piece of 2x4 while cranking down. Finally got it. I had no trouble at all getting the hard lines disconnected from the barbs, but I replaced those barbs with new parts maybe a decade ago.

Only problem now is 1) I can't get the cover to go over the pump area because the new pump sticks up about 1/4" and hits the cover. Guess I'll be loosening my fuel tank cover plate to try to pry the tank down a bit further. Anyone have any advice for this? and 2) can't test the pump because battery is disconnected due to valve covers being off for tune up and I still don't have my accumulator yet (thanks UPS).

I haven't mounted the logic box because I don't have a rivnut tool for metric size yet. Until I get one, I think I'm just going to mount it using a command strip....

66800

[DMC5180]

I’m not sure if the pump top on DPI pump is the same as what DMCH uses. With the DMCH pump, there was a sweet spot in the clocking where the interference was minimized. There was still contact, however the instructions said, to install the upper 2 center screws first then work your way outward and down alternating sides with each screw. When you get to the bottom 2 they should be close enough to get the screws started or use a hole finder pick to line the holes up. It worked for my installation without issue.

[Chris 16409]

I added some extra foam strips to the bottom of the closing plate. That lifted it up high enough to clear.

[82DMC12]

I’m not sure if the pump top on DPI pump is the same as what DMCH uses. With the DMCH pump, there was a sweet spot in the clocking where the interference was minimized. There was still contact, however the instructions said, to install the upper 2 center screws first then work your way outward and down alternating sides with each screw. When you get to the bottom 2 they should be close enough to get the screws started or use a hole finder pick to line the holes up. It worked for my installation without issue.

Thanks for the tip. I was texting another owner who recently did the pump as I was working last night and he suggested the same thing. I think the pump bodies are the same. I am a bit worried about the float hitting the inside of the tank, or maybe the static rod. I will probably scope it out using my camera on a wire through the old sender hole. I did remove the V-clamp after the initial cinch to confirm that the pump was indeed 100% inside the tank hole and it was. So maybe if I can rotate it a bit I'll be set. the cover is hitting the front fuel line that attaches to the pump.

[82DMC12]

I added some extra foam strips to the bottom of the closing plate. That lifted it up high enough to clear.

That's a great idea. I could probably RTV some thick washers on the bottom of the cover where the screw holes are and fill in the gap with foam.

[Ron]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

[82DMC12]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

That's slick. The plastic is super hard though. Might have to get a heat gun.

[DMC5180]

About 10% of the covers will hit no mater how you position the pump due to the tank mounting/ height. I've seen a couple ~1/2" too high. To keep vibration from rubbing a hole in them, I placed a small piece of wood on top of the pump and slooowly heated the cover with a heat gun until it relaxed enough to clear once the wood was removed.

I considered this. But as it stands I don’t notice any additional vibration due to the current contact point.

Here’s my clocking. Word of caution. Make the plastic cap for the Sender hole is deep enough to engage multiple turns of threads. The white one in my photo would not engage more have a turn with o-ring that was provided. It popped of the first time I filled the tang. What a mess. I ended up just reinstalling the old sender to plug the hole. It doesn’t interfere with the swing arm of the new sensor.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210715/bfdbebb315fe825e6a9a225dcfa9bb67.jpg

[82DMC12]

I considered this. But as it stands I don’t notice any additional vibration due to the current contact point.

Here’s my clocking. Word of caution. Make the plastic cap for the Sender hole is deep enough to engage multiple turns of threads. The white one in my photo would not engage more have a turn with o-ring that was provided. It popped of the first time I filled the tang. What a mess. I ended up just reinstalling the old sender to plug the hole. It doesn’t interfere with the swing arm of the new sensor.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210715/bfdbebb315fe825e6a9a225dcfa9bb67.jpg

Dennis, looking at your pump alignment it appears if everything else is similar I can probably rotate mine counterclockwise a few degrees and get some more room to work with.

[DMC5180]

My point of contact was the wire connector housing.

[FABombjoy]

My point of contact was the wire connector housing.
Same here, I filed a miter into the corner of the connector & ground down the fuel pump cover in that area a little. That was enough to get things to seat without further trouble. This worked with both the DMCH pump & the Delphi pump.

[Patrick C]

My point of contact was the wire connector housing.


Same here, I filed a miter into the corner of the connector & ground down the fuel pump cover in that area a little. That was enough to get things to seat without further trouble. This worked with both the DMCH pump & the Delphi pump.

Same problem here. In fact, the cover ended up pushing the connector off and killing my fuel pump during a DeLorean driving tour! I recommend a zip tie around the connector just to make sure it can’t get pushed off/unclipped by the cover on top of it.

[82DMC12]

Same problem here. In fact, the cover ended up pushing the connector off and killing my fuel pump during a DeLorean driving tour! I recommend a zip tie around the connector just to make sure it can’t get pushed off/unclipped by the cover on top of it.

I installed one of the first "retail" kits of the new pump system from DMCH in someone else's car. I seem to remember there being something in the instructions about zip tying one or more connectors together to prevent that.

[bytes311]

Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

66801

[Helirich]

Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

66801

What is the A/C bump feature?

[WHO1DMC]

What is the A/C bump feature?



With David McKeens idle ECU there is a wire you can connect to the compressor wire to bump the idle up a 100 RPM for the car's that may not be able to handle the A/C on at idle. It's only active with the compressor running.


Dave B.

[Jonathan]

I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.

[bytes311]

I would suspect the thermostat is closed shut preventing the water from passing through the pump. They're designed to open when the water is hot enough.


I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.

[Jonathan]

I would suspect the thermostat is closed shut preventing the water from passing through the pump. They're designed to open when the water is hot enough.

Hard to simulate that one with the garden hose... :)

[JBaker4981]

I have a question about the cooling system flush I am currently doing. I hadn't replaced or flushed out the coolant for a long time and even back when it got done, it was my mechanic helping so I don't really know what got done or what didn't.

Anyway, I got at it on the weekend. I disconnected the hoses attaching to the engine at the water pump at the ends that connect to the pipes. On the passenger side this is the one that tees up and into the reservoir and the one on the driver's side connects to the otterstat pipe. I also disconnected the hose and pipe at the bottom corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I gave it a good rinsing using the spray nozzle on the end of my garden hose. I'm confident all the old coolant is out along with any funk that might have been sitting in there.

What I'm not sure about is the engine block. I hadn't really given much thought to unplugging the coolant drain plugs and so was reading up on misadventures and the like other guys have had. I tried to get the passenger side one off, but couldn't get a good grip nor clear access and thought better of trying to really lean into it and ruin something.

That being said, I thought I would be able to use the garden hose spray nozzle in the end of either hose connected to the water pump and spray it through like that. It doesn't let me though. Like any kind of moderate water pressure I get using the spray nozzle and a rag to try and seal it just fills the hose and then comes back out the way it came in. It doesn't pour out the opposite hose like I thought it might.

Is this normal or is it telling me I have some plugged yuck in there? I know I am trying to force it through the water pump, but having never removed mine or looked closely at how they are made, I'm not sure what the impeller blades or whatever it is look like. I'm guessing you can't force water past the pump like this because the passages are too small and won't let water freely by without it spinning? Anyone know? Thanks.

If the problem is flushing the rest of the coolant out of the system, you can take off the passenger side deflector in the rear wheel well and gain access to the hose that comes off of the back of the Water Pump and goes to the heater core. The thermostat will open this feed up at temperature so you wont be touching this closed system with your hose pipe.

For what it's worth, I'd also pop the Engine Block Drain Plugs with PB and let it soak for a half hour and then unscrew the drain plugs. That way you are sure to flush all the coolant out of the engine and Y-Pipe coming from the back of the WP.

[JBaker4981]

In today's question of 'What have you done to your DeLorean today?', I answer with:

I opened the door, got a whiff of that lovely DeLorean smell, closed the door, and continued my way to the chest freezer for pizza.

True Story. Also this is my petty attempt at my 200th post.

[Michael]

I opened the door, got a whiff of that lovely DeLorean smell.

That would be the scent of burnt Lucas electronics mixed with the rich aroma of the kids college fund and a soupçon of mildew.

[JBaker4981]

That would be the scent of burnt Lucas electronics mixed with the rich aroma of the kids college fund and a soupçon of mildew.

You most certainly are not wrong

[iflights]

Installed Toby's DPNW front shock tower brace. This coupled with my earlier installation of Toby's front poly sway bar bushings has made the handling so much better. Couldn't exactly feel any difference after the poly bushing install by itself, but with the shock tower brace in place, I do feel a difference in front end deflection on these terrible Michigan roads. Last FE alignment was done about 5 years ago and might need to dial it in further this fall.

[Helirich]

Installed Toby's DPNW front shock tower brace. This coupled with my earlier installation of Toby's front poly sway bar bushings has made the handling so much better. Couldn't exactly feel any difference after the poly bushing install by itself, but with the shock tower brace in place, I do feel a difference in front end deflection on these terrible Michigan roads. Last FE alignment was done about 5 years ago and might need to dial it in further this fall.

I find it hard to believe this can make much differnce. But your statement is forcing me to make a cheap strong one to try. If I like it, I will probably have to buy one like yours. (I like the design features) Thanks for the update.

[MrChocky]

Finally got around to installing the "A/C bump" feature that comes with Dave's McKeen's microprocessor idle ECU.

For those wondering which wire you tap into, it's the pink one with the diode in the relay compartment.

66801Thanks for this. Finally got around to doing it. Looking forward to stalling less often.

[Michael]

I find it hard to believe this can make much differnce. But your statement is forcing me to make a cheap strong one to try. If I like it, I will probably have to buy one like yours. (I like the design features) Thanks for the update.

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

66921

[MrChocky]

Thanks for this. Finally got around to doing it. Looking forward to stalling less often.

Followup; just went for a drive in the midday heat, and it makes a huge difference. Of course, I've never driven another
manual (and there's no A/C on my auto), but reading the service records suggests the car has had a history of issues
of stalling at stop with A/C on. This has gradually gotten less bad with maintenance I've done, but this last change is
a big deal.

[Helirich]

The strut tower brace makes a HUGE difference in the front end feel through the curves, especially if you are running stiffer suspension.

66921

So what's the deal with your fancy gas cap? Also, what are the two boxes on the pax side?

Ps, with the tower brace you have, can you remove the spare with only one side off? How about checking the brake fluid?