What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Farrar]

Glued in 4 new stainless rear fascia studs on the bumper. fingers crossed this fancy glue holds

Urethane?

[Dangermouse]

1002

Awesome thread!

[SIMid]

when i bought the car 13 years ago it had a ding in the passenger door, and a quarter sized ding in the rear passenger quarter. its been a long time coming and I can't begin to express how excited I was when Dave sent these pictures over.


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10005

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Amazing job on the door! Very impressive! Did they regain the dent?

[jawn101]

Glued in 4 new stainless rear fascia studs on the bumper. fingers crossed this fancy glue holds

Right on man, I really hope it holds too after all that effort! :)

[dmc6960]

So far I have removed the passenger door fixed glass. Also had to remove the strut as the door became too difficult to close with how bare it is right now. There is barely anything in it.

Now I'm cleaning up the stainless on the door for the glass and the glass itself.

[thirdmanj]

Installed Henninger's door strut support brackets. So far so good, I'm letting everything cure a bit before I close the doors, but they were every bit as simple to install as others have already said. They're well made, and Mr. H is just a phone call away and very patient in answering questions. Installation was very strait forward and I do NOT think they "detract" from the appearance in any way, in fact I kinda think it looks cooler now. With all the after market door struts flying arround these days I think these or a comparable upgrade would be a wise thing. 1258 came with the original Stabilus struts and I replaced them with the ones PJ Grady had back in '07. They lasted a very long time and I noticed no displacement of the stock strut stud, however I've recently replaced the old Grady ones with Ed's "Soft-Lift" struts, I can't 100% say that's what caused my original studs to bend, but it was shortly after that, that I noticed they were pushed out a bit. So I made the call to go with Henninger's solution, for it's simplicity and ease of installation, I also believe they can stand a bit more stress. If any thing happens, I'll let you guys know.

-James

[jawn101]

Installed DPNW's lower speedo cable. The speedo bounce is almost completely gone!

[DrJeff]

I added pictures to my Album #6313 showing the installation of the Velcro rolls and velcro patches on the underside of the escutcheon. This allows the escutcheon to be installed and removed as normal (albeit with a little more resistance from the velcro). When installed the Escutcheon doesn't move or rattle. Stable enough that using the door lock button or door latch doesn't cause the escutcheon to move.

I also adjusted my strike pins on the passenger door. I found the method of moving them into random positions somewhat useful, because I can't see any logic behind when they grab and when they don't - too many variables. I'm think there might be a lot of frame flex around the door frame. I never got to the beautiful click that some others have described, but I'm happy with no longer having to slam it to get both latches to catch.

1005410055100561005710058Jeff #6313

[jawn101]

I added pictures to my Album #6313 showing the installation of the Velcro rolls and velcro patches on the underside of the escutcheon. This allows the escutcheon to be installed and removed as normal (albeit with a little more resistance from the velcro). When installed the Escutcheon doesn't move or rattle. Stable enough that using the door lock button or door latch doesn't cause the escutcheon to move.

I also adjusted my strike pins on the passenger door. I found the method of moving them into random positions somewhat useful, because I can't see any logic behind when they grab and when they don't - too many variables. I'm think there might be a lot of frame flex around the door frame. I never got to the beautiful click that some others have described, but I'm happy with no longer having to slam it to get both latches to catch.

1005410055100561005710058Jeff #6313

That's a very cool idea. Any chance of a more detailed writeup? Floating escutcheons are high on the list of things that bug me in the car, along with the walking switches in the center console. I fixed that already, but your escutcheon solution is elegant and cool!

[stevedmc]

I'm letting everything cure a bit before I close the doors

Simply shut the doors overnight without the struts installed. Tomorrow put the struts back on and enjoy your new door studs. :)

[dmc6960]

Holy Hell I never want to do that again. If I ever encounter another window so messed with by a previous owner im just going to buy a new door, glass, and channel.

So at some point before my ownership something happened to the passenger side door glass. Either it was removed and replaced or it got broken and replaced. Two of the 6 retaining tabs for the fixed glass were broken off already. But the bad part is how the window was secured. It was sealed with a mix of windshield urethane (correct) but also a thick bead of gooey sealant. That combination gave me hell trying to clean it all up.

After a few hours I finally got the door cleaned up, then did the fixed glass. That was easy by comparison. Much better angles.

Finally I cleaned up the aluminum channel that separates the fixed glass from the drop glass. This is what prompted all of my work on these parts. It popped loose when I was removing the scratched drop glass. Then I saw it didn't have the rubber seal around it like my drivers door does. I really like the finished appearance of it, so I decided to remove everything and clean it up and put it back together right. I'll tell you though, the cost of a new channel is worth it compared to cleaning urethane out of it.

Well at least that's all done and tomorrow I can get the fixed window all assembled.

[dmc6960]

It's all about knowin the right way to do it.

I screwed around with the drop glass channel seal for about two hours trying to get it on the fixed glass and aluminum channel. You'd think the old way it could go in would be to insert the deal into the channel first and then guide it into the glass. WRONG! Apparently if you do it on the glass first then guide the channel over the rubber, you can do it in 10 minutes flat!

So far today, I have accomplished this...

10068

From this...

10069

[DMC5180]

Repainted Windshield side trim finishers to match the Upper piece I did last week.

[pezzonovante88]

Put on my new DMCH Intro-Tech car cover. Fits perfectly, looks cool, and will hopefully work well.

[dmc6960]

Installed passenger door fixed glass into car.

Installed passenger door fixed glass weather seal into car.

Placed dynamat extreme inside key areas of passenger door exterior skin. Door panel resonance significantly reduced.

Installed new felt into passenger window channel.

Installed passenger exterior drop glass seal.

Installed 3 rub pads over passenger exterior drop glass seal retaining tabs.

Installed new passenger drop glass into carrier.

Installed drop glass into passenger door.

Aligned passenger drop glass/carrier placement.

Aligned passenger drop glass guides.

Installed new A1 window regulator into passenger door.

Called it a night.

[DMC5180]

Dynamat in the door. How much extra weight do you think it will add?

[Farrar]

Rebuilt the carburetor.

[SamHill]

Haven't driven it in 3 months.

Took it out of the garage.

Hosed it off.

Drove it all day, problem free.

Life is Good.

[DrJeff]

Two days to complete the door project on the driver's door. A LOT quicker than my first go around on the passenger door.

- New window regulator
- Wedgectomies on both latches
- Spring on latch mechanism
- Replaced solenoids (even though working still) with a linear actuator
- escutcheon solution (velcro to stop a loose escutcheon)
- lower and upper trim panel join hider (fluffy velcro strip along the brackets between the upper and lower trim panels to hide any reflection from the bracket metal)
- rebuilt the door mirror control switch (twice, second time with superglue! It will never come apart again.)
- New foam on the vent in door and duct tape (used as God originally intended) to seal the ducts
- New weather seal foam strip around the bottom of the lower trim panel
- New fir trees (trim clips) on the lower and upper trim panels

It sure looks nice to have the door panels back on again :)

Just in case anyone is tempted to take apart their door mirror control switch, don't. It took every ounce of dexterity I posses to get all those tiny springs and ball bearings back in place. However, it you really must, some advice...

- Get a bowl to hold all the components, they all want to roll or bounce away from wherever you are working
- Work over a baking tray so that if any parts do roll, at least you have a chance of catching them
- Attached is a photo of the internal parts
- 4 ball bearings, 4 small springs, 3 larger springs, 3 rollers
- I re-assembled by holding the joy stick piece in place, and tipping up one corner at a time, putting a small spring in, then pushing in a ball bearing. There is a small metal gate that the spring presses the ball bearing against. Repeat three more times without letting any of the other springs or ball bearings come out of position (which means repeat the whole process about 10 times).
- Once the joy stick piece has all its spring an bearings, put the top square of metal (an upper contact) back in place. I put a dot of superglue at each corner to hold the whole thing steady. Don't forget to reconnect the black wire. It connects to the top square contact.
- Assemble the left right switch upside down in the housing. Put the larger springs in the holes (pretty obvious) and then lay the rollers across the top of the spring. The middle roller should be closer to the joystick bits than the other two rollers.
- Close the unit by lowering the back side onto the topside (with the left/right switch assembled within).
- Keep the unit held closed tightly and use superglue to seal the back side to the topside. (If not secured right, you will find that the left/right switch spring will force it apart and then you will have to start again.

This is an expensive part to replace, so be sure not to misplace any of the parts. I certainly never want to do it again :)

101191012010121

[Jeffu]

I pulled the engine and tranny on VIN 5120 tonight. Project will include: have the heads re-worked, hotter cams installed, scrap the old BAE turbo unit and replace it with a performance exhaust, replace rear main seal and other leaky gaskets on motor, tear into tranny and replace roller pin on 1st & 2nd gear along with seals. Paint rear pontoon area and engine bay. I got my work cut out for me!

1012210123

[mluder]

Two days to complete the door project on the driver's door. A LOT quicker than my first go around on the passenger door.

- Replaced solenoids (even though working still) with a linear actuator


Got any plans for your old solenoids?

Steve

[Farrar]

Put the rebuilt carburetor on with a new mounting gasket. Had to adjust the fast-idle cam up a little -- not sure if that has anything to do with running smaller jets or not. Managed to get it idling fairly smoothly. Still an occasional miss, but I generally need to re-torque the intake manifold bolts after it's been running a while. Next step is to put a vacuum gauge on it, but I am satisfied that it is now worthy of short drives -- not making any long drives until I have air conditioning.

[AdmiralSenn]

Spent several hours drilling into/staring at the stump of a helicoil insertion tap that is still in my cylinder head.

Realized that at the current material removal rate of ~1/32" every two hours, accounting for having a job and other responsibilities, I will get this tap out in about... next year.

[DrJeff]

Got any plans for your old solenoids?

Steve

No plans - any ideas - they both still work? I got the linear actuators tested today (Door lock kit from Wings-a-Loft). It is working almost perfectly, perhaps one more adjustment to do on the driver's door to get it 100%. I did get rid of the busted window regulators!

Today...
1) Got the battery and alternator checked at Advance Auto Parts. Both are 100% healthy.
2) Adjusted the strike pins on the passenger side - once again proving I have no idea where the placement should be - but working well now
3) Cleaned up the car and took it on 3 drives. Steering wobbles at ~60mph so getting the wheels balanced tomorrow. Engine and A/C are running great.

Jeff
#6313

[vwdmc16]

Drove to Reno for the weekend. She behaved nicely. but the ISC system still doesnt react fast enough sometimes and the engine stalls in heavy traffic. Sigh.... so many things to do to the car still

[DrJeff]

I had some steering shake at ~60mph, so I took the car over to NTB for a checkup, $10 a wheel for balancing and inspection. Showed the passenger side was 'significantly' off. Running much more smoothly now. Got a look under the car and saw that the tie rod end boots were blown. Still some grease there so much have been recent enough. Got home and ordered new boots from DMCH. Wife had the driveway clear when I got home so I could park the D in the garage :(

Jeff
#6313

[jawn101]

Over the past couple days:

- Removed both seats, center console, and driver/passenger carpets (again)
- Taped up the hole in the back of the heater box
- Taped up the hole in the driver's footwell where the hood release cable and washer fluid hose run
- Installed a backup hood release cable (still in progress)
- Stripped both doors bare. Not Jim Reeve bare, just the inner panels, moisture barriers and some mechanicals
- Replaced both outer door handles with the new DMCH ones
- Rebuilt my broken driver's side door vent
- Sealed both door vents very well with weatherstripping and duct tape
- Put new weatherstripping foam on the inside of the lower panels
- Stripped all the old glue holding the moisture barriers from the doors and barriers
- Installed a new barrier on the driver's side, and new glue holding the old barrier on the passenger side
- Lock and latch alignment on both sides
- Slipped some more vinyl hose over some of the rods most likely to clank around
- Cleaned the insides of the doors (a lot of grease, dirt, metal shavings, old glue, weatherstripping, velcro for some reason, nuts, etc)
- Installed drop glass rub pads (made a huge difference, if you don't have these it's the best 5 bucks you'll spend!)
- Cut my newly installed dynamat away from the area under the seat tracks. It was causing the seats to bind up and not be able to slide back and forth
- Put the driver's side door all back together

Tonight the passenger side door goes back together, carpet on both sides goes back in, followed by the center console and seats. Hoping the A/C works a little better and blows a little harder from the door vents and that my seats will slide again!

[mluder]

- Lock and latch alignment on both sides

I need to do this and have read through the proceedure - looks confusing as hell. Any advice?



- Installed drop glass rub pads (made a huge difference, if you don't have these it's the best 5 bucks you'll spend!)


Are these an aftermarket thing or standard issue?

Cheers.
Steve

[sdg3205]

I need to do this and have read through the proceedure - looks confusing as hell. Any advice?



Are these an aftermarket thing or standard issue?

Cheers.
Steve

Steve, the lock and latch procedure is dead simple. Just follow it step by step and you can't go wrong.

The second door always takes half as much time!

Cheers

[thirdmanj]

Noticed screw in rear tire.

Took D to tire shop

Dumb ass tech broke the DOOR KEY in the ignition.

Dumb ass tech tried to curse me out for not telling him the proper key (even though he'd drivin it before, and I'd reminded him before)

Cursed dumb-ass tech out for trying to yell at me and for being fuckin stupid.

Long story short: The screw didn't even puncture the tire, and DMCH doesn't have the code for my doors. So one way or another the door locks will have to come out. I'm gonna break the good news to the tire center that said they'd cover the "new key". Boy oh boy are they in for a surprise...

[jawn101]

I need to do this and have read through the proceedure - looks confusing as hell. Any advice?



Are these an aftermarket thing or standard issue?

Cheers.
Steve

The process isn't as hard as it sounds. Basically fiddle with the rod lengths and cable preload until things work smoothly! The bulletin is just a lot of fancy words for that. It becomes more obvious when you're looking at the actual mechanicals.

As for the rub pads they are a stock part. My car did not have them and the window made noises going up and down and would bang around inside the door when lowered in a moving car. No more! Part number is 108215, 3 per door.

[Delorean02378]

Took 15500 to the Friday night cruise-in located in Murfreesboro, TN then drove it like I stole it, all the way home.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qcj9qyWsen8



Kirk

[pezzonovante88]

-Attempted fixing the hood release cable again. Almost did it. Very finicky.
-Lambda light came on for the first time (I recently put a can of BG 44K in the tank, so maybe that has something to do with it).
-My radio wouldn't function today, either.

[sdg3205]

-Attempted fixing the hood release cable again. Almost did it. Very finicky.
-Lambda light came on for the first time (I recently put a can of BG 44K in the tank, so maybe that has something to do with it).
-My radio wouldn't function today, either.

You hit 30k miles?

[pezzonovante88]

You hit 30k miles?

Not that I'm aware of (my odometer doesn't work). I know the lambda light is supposed to come on at 30K. How do I get rid of it?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put in my poly "sway bar" bushings. I still need to install my new LCRs but decided to wait till the fall for that job.

[sdg3205]

Not that I'm aware of (my odometer doesn't work). I know the lambda light is supposed to come on at 30K. How do I get rid of it?

The counter must still be counting despite the ODO being inoperable.

There are a few ways to turn it off. One (the "proper way") involves a reset at the counter. A special tool might be involved IIRC. The second is to just unplug it from the counter.

[pezzonovante88]

The counter must still be counting despite the ODO being inoperable.

There are a few ways to turn it off. One (the "proper way") involves a reset at the counter. A special tool might be involved IIRC. The second is to just unplug it from the counter.

Okay, I just read up on how to reset the counter. Thanks for the info!

[Chris Burns]

What are the benefits of unplugging the Lambda counter?

[Farrar]

Today, as part of the move to the new apartment, I backed Sparky into a garage for the first time. Fortunately, I did it with the doors closed. ;)

#2613 is now in its new crib. And just in time for the rain...

[pezzonovante88]

Today, as part of the move to the new apartment, I backed Sparky into a garage for the first time. Fortunately, I did it with the doors closed. ;)

#2613 is now in its new crib. And just in time for the rain...

Its always relieving knowing your car is safe and sound in the garage. :meditation:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Its always relieving knowing your car is safe and sound in the garage. :meditation:

I hope you don't mean the garage door.

[jawn101]

Finally finished up all my jobs from this week. Car is 100% back together and 100% functional again. There are now 0 rattles from the doors over bumps and rough pavement! Difference in overall A/C performance was negligible, but having the door vents working properly and blowing air on my face instead of inside the door is a big plus.

Took a spin down to Benicia and met some friends for breakfast. Days like today remind me why we moved to CA!
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10361&d=1336859948

Came home and let my wife drive her for the first time. Both she and the car made noises I've never heard before.

Gently and lovingly suggested she let me take over. Went to the hardware store and picked up some 1/2" PVC and compression fittings to make a door barricade (fits right over the striker pins) for an upcoming car show.

[vwdmc16]

What kind of noises were being made Jon?

[jawn101]

What kind of noises were being made Jon?

Uhh... gears grinding, the sound of a 3rd gear dead start, and several apologies. All things I don't recall hearing before :lol:

[DrJeff]

Went to Auto Parts Store twice. Got a 1/2 in ID copper washer the first time as a fix to the Reverse Light Switch problem. Got home and found out that it didn't fit over the switch. Went back and got a 5/8in ID copper washer instead. It fits over the switch okay. I also got a coil boot to replace the hard plastic elbow that is blocked up and keeping water in the evaporator box - and soaking the passenger side floor. Still got to fit everything on the car, but at least I ready.

Learning for today, measure the dang things before going to the parts store!

[sdg3205]

Uhh... gears grinding, the sound of a 3rd gear dead start, and several apologies. All things I don't recall hearing before :lol:

HA!!!!

[Ryan King]

Installed my Luggage Rack

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[thirdmanj]

Installed my Luggage Rack

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May I recomended, that when you go on road trips to tour, for go the customary chocolate and candy souvenirs. :lol:

Looks great btw!! How does it attach? It still allows you to open the engine compartment yes?

[r00b]

It still allows you to open the engine compartment yes?

No, but It doesn't obstruct your view, which is nice.

[DavidProehl]

Finally finished up all my jobs from this week. Car is 100% back together and 100% functional again. There are now 0 rattles from the doors over bumps and rough pavement! Difference in overall A/C performance was negligible, but having the door vents working properly and blowing air on my face instead of inside the door is a big plus.

Took a spin down to Benicia and met some friends for breakfast. Days like today remind me why we moved to CA!

Great picture! Sounds like the perfect day!

[DMC5180]

No, but It doesn't obstruct your view, which is nice.

It only takes 30 seconds to detach it. Hardly an issue for engine access.



As for what I did to my D today, Returned home (375 mi) form A great Gathering at INDY. Also participated in the longest Caravan of Deloreans In US history (45) at the event. That was a sight to see.

[DavidProehl]

Installed a backup hood release cable this afternoon. Much simpler than I expected the job to be. No more fear of being unable to fill my empty gas tank when 100 miles from home!

In trunk:
10374

In footwell:
10375

[pezzonovante88]

I also finished installing a new trunk release cable. It nice and secure now and should last a good long time.

[jawn101]

Installed a backup hood release cable this afternoon. Much simpler than I expected the job to be. No more fear of being unable to fill my empty gas tank when 100 miles from home!

In trunk:
10374

In footwell:
10375


I also finished installing a new trunk release cable. It nice and secure now and should last a good long time.

I totally botched mine. I'll admit it. I bought the cable by the foot at Lowe's and I got what looked like a really nice diameter vinyl-sheathed cable, thinking the sheath would protect against rubbing and corrosion and all that good stuff. Got it home and the stuff is massive. Way thicker than I thought it was in the store. It's like twice as thick as the original cable including sheath. Whoops. Will have to try that one again. :)

[Jonathan]

Pezzo,

The lambda counter's sole purpose is to count to 30,000 miles. When it gets there, it means you should replace the O2 sensor. That's it. So if you remember via logbook, spreadsheet, calendar, etc when you've gone 30,000 miles, then you don't need it. Hence why people unplug the electrical connector or remove it and go with the one piece long speedo cable.

You mentioned adding something to the fuel. That alone would not cause the light to come on. Now on the other hand, if you were under the drivers footwell and bumped some loose wires, it's possible that set it off. If your speedo and odo don't work then the only way the lambda unit could still be counting is if your problem is between the top of the counter and the instrument cluster. Considering most people's problems are centered around the dust cap, angle drive and lower cable, I wouldn't count on this being the case.

My guess is you bumped a wire somewhere in the connection or maybe even the bulb itself.

[pezzonovante88]

My guess is you bumped a wire somewhere in the connection or maybe even the bulb itself.

Could very well be, as I was down there installing a new hood release cable. I'll check it out to see what I can find. Thanks.

[jawn101]

Built a prop to hold the lower engine cover up at car shows ('tis the season...) instead of using the built in stand all the time. Just used some leftover 1/2" PVC that I wrapped in black duct tape and cut perpendicular notches in the end of. The cross braces on the underside of the cover slots perfectly into it, and the pipe rests on the air horn. Looks pretty good!

[vwdmc16]

Tapped my W pip bolts out to 8mm. they werent stripped. its for a future mod. ( and because I cant find M7 bolts with Allen heads)

[dmc6960]

Tonight I installed the new windshield. This is one of the new UV and IR windshields.

Installing your own windshield isn't too difficult, you just need to be very careful and do all the proper steps.


First, remove your old windshield, this is more difficult than installing the new one.
Next, clean up the entire mounting area. Down to the bare fiberglass.
Optionally, replace A-Pillar trim pieces or re-glue to A-pillar if damaged during windshield removal.
Clean up body again.
Set windshield on car for visual lineup and inspection.
Jack roof to close gap in the top center between the doors.
Remove windshield and clean both surfaces again.
Apply 3M glass primer to both glass and car body.
Apply 3M Windshield Urethane to car with triangular bead (or V-bead), this is important to reduce the chances of a trapped air bubble.
Set windshield down perfectly the first time. Gently push down around all edges to push into the adhesive.
Shut doors with windows open. Let sit for a day.


A few images...

Practice V-Bead...
10403

Image showing gap in center of roof. The corners of the windshield were sitting on the car. Enlarge image to see circled area.
10402

Final install done!
10404

[pezzonovante88]

Adjusted the fuel/air mixture to stop rev-hunting. Seems like I've got it about right, as its idling fairly smoothly and consistently. I'll have to tweak a little more here and there and see if it drives properly.

[ecbow]

Installed leds on door lights and side markers. They look great and run cooler.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Adjusted the fuel/air mixture to stop rev-hunting. Seems like I've got it about right, as its idling fairly smoothly and consistently. I'll have to tweak a little more here and there and see if it drives properly.

You really don't want to adjust the mixture for the best idle condition. It will probably not run closed loop lambda if you do. So your highway MPG will suffer greatly. You should get a dwell (or duty cycle) meter when adjusting the mixture.

[jawn101]

Drove it to work without incident. On the way home I was trying to turn my radio down with the remote, and accidentally held down the 'up' button instead. The whole system just shut off. Checked all the fuses and nothing was wrong. Checked all the wiring, nothing wrong. Checked the fuse in the back of the head unit, it's fine. Start checking voltages and there isn't any?

Turns out there's an inline glass fuse behind the dashboard that was only rated at 5A from the factory. Might be OK for the Craig but not so much for a modern amplifier that accidentally gets cranked. Spent the evening fishing that stupid fuse out through the head unit hole and replaced it with a 10A fuse instead, since that's what's in the back of the head unit. No point creating a link that's intentionally too weak, right?

[pezzonovante88]

You really don't want to adjust the mixture for the best idle condition. It will probably not run closed loop lambda if you do. So your highway MPG will suffer greatly. You should get a dwell (or duty cycle) meter when adjusting the mixture.

I'm pretty sure it was running quite rich before, so I think it required an adjustment anyway. We'll see how it runs.

[DeLorean]

got it to idle, see here-

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3936-Thermo-Time-Switch-idles-bad-when-plugged-into-vac-source-good-when-not&highlight=thermal

Ever since I got it, the idle was never right. As soon as it warned up, it would idle up a bit and have a light misfire at idle. I fixed some vacuum leaks - mainly at the back of the climate control, and at the charcoal canister, and that made the idle even worse... After fixing the connection to the vacuum solenoid (see thread) it idles perfectly now!

I am very happy I (so far) have not had to go into the "VOD" - I was thinking this was about to be the time it was going to happen.

[Dangermouse]

Set windshield down perfectly the first time.

Sounds easy :)

[seventy4burban]

Took my steering rack down the the auto shop and scrubbed all the grease and dirt off it. Then installed new boots and tie rod ends. Also cleaned the two air shields the cover the trail arms.

[MartyP]

I just drive it, for the past week. Everything runs perfect, I think she would be a great daily driver.

Still checking out that mirror switch/defrost switch blowing when I put the key in.

And also I will check out why the idle doesnt pick-up until it has run for a minute or 2.

But she runs great !!!! Already 2 full tank of gas since the first time I took it out from winter !

[DavidProehl]

New plates arrive in the mail today. The MN plate came off, CA one went on. In MN I was able to get vanity historic/collector plates, here you get what you get.

10455

[opethmike]

Installed a properly sized alternator belt

[jawn101]

New plates arrive in the mail today. The MN plate came off, CA one went on. In MN I was able to get vanity historic/collector plates, here you get what you get.

10455

How the shit did you get a historic plate in CA? I've never even SEEN one of those before. What restrictions does it place on you??

Edit: Ah well. Doesn't get me out of smog :)

[DavidProehl]

How the shit did you get a historic plate in CA? I've never even SEEN one of those before. What restrictions does it place on you??

Edit: Ah well. Doesn't get me out of smog :)

It was super easy, just filled out the form. The requirement is that the car needs to be 25 years old or more and "be of historical significance." My application was sent to the office in Sacramento for review so someone could make a judgement call about a DeLorean being historically significant. I've read on other forums for other old cars that these can be hard to get if you end up talking to the wrong guy on the wrong day.

The restriction is that I am only allowed to drive it to car shows and for club events. Since I only drive on weekends, and most of what I use the car for are club events I didn't see it as a problem. Also, it depends on how you define "car show" or "club event", could be pretty broad. Of course at the end of the day it is the cop that pulls you over that decides that.

[dmc6960]

Minnesota collector plates are still better. :cool:

I'm currently working on cleaning up and painting the 3 windshield trim pieces.

[DavidProehl]

Minnesota collector plates are still better. :cool:

I'm currently working on cleaning up and painting the 3 windshield trim pieces.

I'll give you that, if for no other reason than they let you do a vanity plate with them.

Very jealous of your new windshield. A modern windshield with UV tinting will go a long way in the summer to keeping the car cool.

[dmc6960]

Very jealous of your new windshield. A modern windshield with UV tinting will go a long way in the summer to keeping the car cool.

Ahem... UV AND IR. Anyone can now get a UV tinted windshield, as all of DMC's new repro's have a UV tint. For double the cost, add IR to that. I hope to also get the highest quality UV/IR window tint applied to the side windows before leaving for Orlando, and along with the cooled seats (which I will finally continue working on this weekend) I gonna be a damn cold cat driving to DCS.

[AdmiralSenn]

Asked for tips on destroying a broken tap on a tinker's/machinist's board, and got insane, futile, despairing laughter in response.

Began to despair of ever getting Christine on the road again.

[vwdmc16]

got my $300 of parts today, my car really needs a bath too.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/IMG_0348.jpg

[pezzonovante88]

-New trailing arm bolts installed (old ones were in fine condition, oh well)
-Front-end recall kit installed
-New fuel filter installed
-Fuel mixture re-adjusted (again)
-Cleaned and waxed accessible areas on the underbody while it was on the hoist

Took it for a drive. Had some yahoo on the highway yelling BTTF references through his window while taking a video with his phone (the passenger, not driver). He was giving thumbs up and I think he was just very excited to see a DeLorean. I pretended I couldn't hear him and just gave him a thumbs up. They then followed me for a little while.

[seventy4burban]

Made a 550 mile emergency parts run to DMC California. Damn 30 year old plastic radiators.....

[jawn101]

Washed it for the British car show this Sunday. My machinist buddy came by and dropped off my new stainless ignition resistor cover, I think it came out excellent!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10479&d=1337443015

Now over to Clint's to help with some wiring projects.

[DavidProehl]

Washed it for the British car show this Sunday. My machinist buddy came by and dropped off my new stainless ignition resistor cover, I think it came out excellent!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10479&d=1337443015

Now over to Clint's to help with some wiring projects.


Wow! That is awesome! Is this purely a one off? Would he do more? Not sure if I'm truly interested, but it looks awesome.

[82DMC12]

+ 1 I'd be interested in one

[jawn101]

Wow! That is awesome! Is this purely a one off? Would he do more? Not sure if I'm truly interested, but it looks awesome.

Good news then, I had him make you one too. They are hand done in stainless and I commissioned 2 since Clint doesn't have a resistor anymore.


+ 1 I'd be interested in one

Haha, OK! I'll start a new thread tonight and see if more people want them and I'll order up a batch.

[mluder]

Haha, OK! I'll start a new thread tonight and see if more people want them and I'll order up a batch.

+1 I might be in for one too.

Cheers.
Steve

[Bitsyncmaster]

Went for a drive in the D. It may be just the suggestion that the poly sway bar bushings helped....But it sure seems better. Less steering wheel vibration.

[MML]

Got my new tyres all fitted at last. Holding on to the originals for now!

http://i.imgur.com/ghy9n.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VdG8n.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bEiPi.jpg

[Jonathan]

Haha, OK! I'll start a new thread tonight and see if more people want them and I'll order up a batch.

Add me to the list Jon. I'll keep an eye out for the new thread.

[jawn101]

Add me to the list Jon. I'll keep an eye out for the new thread.

Thread started!

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3989-Custom-stainless-resistor-covers-interest-thread&p=56830#post56830

Post your "I'm interested" replies there so I can get a solid count of how many we might want to put together :)

[dmc6960]

Did a little bit more real work today.

Reinstalled the freshly painted windshield trim panels. Reinstalled the outer weatherstripping around the windshield. Trimmed back the main headliner fabric which have been wicking water since I installed them in 2004, whoops.

Started cleaning the body under the windshield cowl with lacquer thinner. This rubs off the paint on the fiberglass leaving a semi-gloss finish of the gelcoat. Learned this trick from Dave Swingle on my engine rebuild thread back on .com. Then I ran out of lacquer thinner.
10507

Also pulled off the drivers door vapor barrier to find an OEM window regulator! I had this door apart in 2002 or 2004 and I could have SWORE the regulator had been replaced with an A1. What is even more amazing I that the plastic elbow is still completely intact. The only thing wrong is a small section of spread worm gear guide which is easily repairable. Anybody looking for a good condition OEM drivers side window regulator?
10508

Also performed a "wedgectomy" on one of the latches. This removes a section of plastic whose only purpose seems to be to intentionally prevent of latches from locking when the doors are open. I already did this to the passenger latches a few weeks ago and it works great!

Latch before procedure...
10509 10510 10511

Latch after procedure...
10512 10513

Sorry about the random rotation.

[xbrules]

Thought it was about time to do the plugs so I bought a set the other day and got it done.

she's running a lot better now and with a bit more poke than before which is nice...

I bet you can guess which 2 were closest to the rear fascia huh?

http://i445.photobucket.com/albums/qq180/xbrules/2012-05-20_13-46-15_403.jpg

I had no trouble with 5 of the 6 but the one closest to the oil filler with my bear claws was particularly troublesome to get the lead back on...

[jfirios]

just finished test fitting the speakers and Ipad in the back wall. Getting it ready for foam and vinal. what do you guys think?10515

[Ron]

just finished test fitting the speakers and Ipad in the back wall. Getting it ready for foam and vinal. what do you guys think?

There's a lot of fun/cool things you could do with the ipad...

:rock_on:

[dmc6960]

Unbolted exhaust clamps for replacement with band clamps. Removed both header-cat gaskets for replacement.

Started installing drivers side A1 window regulator. Removed drivers side window regulator. Installed dynamat on outer door skin. Installed drivers side window regulator.

[sdg3205]

Installed my new $9 K&N filter from amazon.com

[jfirios]

This is what the Ipad is going to be mainly used for. 10529

[DeLorean]

Convex mirrors, so I can So I can...

[dmc6960]

This is what the Ipad is going to be mainly used for. 10529

I figured it would be the world's most expensive flux capacitor, then then I realized the iPad is cheaper.

[jafo2k]

Installing T-Panel today! Thanks to Rob at PJ Gradys .. awesome person to finally meet. I was like a kid in a candy store.. lol

[pezzonovante88]

I figured it would be the world's most expensive flux capacitor, then then I realized the iPad is cheaper.

Is there a Flux Capacitor app where you'd just touch the screen and it lights up? That would be kinda cool.

[jfirios]

there is one, and it is pretty cool but it shows it only when the ipad is vertical, when it is horizontal it shows the time circuits and acts as an alarm clock.

[pezzonovante88]

there is one, and it is pretty cool but it shows it only when the ipad is vertical, when it is horizontal it shows the time circuits and acts as an alarm clock.

Thats so awesome.

[DrJeff]

The lower door seal had come away from the edge. Removed all the edge clips from the door seal piece. I checked the grippers (little spikes that grab the edge and the trim) to make sure they would all grab. Refitted the edge clips into the door seal piece - placed them so that they didn't re-attached where the edge was already worn. I added some 3M black marine adhesive for good measure. Pressed the door seal and embedded edge clips onto the edge and tapped into place with a rubber mallet. Going to leave over night with the door open. Hopefully this won't come loose again for a very long time.

[DMC5180]

Installed a NEW coolant bottle Saturday. Discovered I had a slow leak in my LR tire (was just installed 6 weeks ago). I took it in to get it fixed and they said it was seeping at the bead due to migrating corrosion from the inside. They cleaned the area and neutralized the bad spot then used a sealing compound on it. Hopefully it holds now. Recharged the A/C after 2 years (R134a). Dang it's COLD in there now. Had to run on fan speed 1 w/ MAX A/C. DEBUGGED the front end and cleaned the wheels and Went for 30 mile drive :biggrin:

[jawn101]

Installed SilverStar headlights on the driver's side, but not the passenger side. Will take some nice side by side photos tomorrow when I can get the garage to myself. The difference is staggering and is even more impressive side by side on the same car. My one complaint is that the low and high beam SilverStar bulbs don't seem to be the same color. The old Wagner/Sylvanias were basically exactly the same color low to high, just different brightnesses.

[mluder]

there is one, and it is pretty cool but it shows it only when the ipad is vertical, when it is horizontal it shows the time circuits and acts as an alarm clock.

You can lock the display rotation which kkeps it from changing to the time circuits but it's designed to be displayed vertical like the real thing.

Cheers.
Steve

[sdg3205]

Big day.

I finished installing Toby's (DPNW's) low current fans as well as some replacement parts for my R-12 A/C update.

The fans were a breeze to install. I expected much worse given my first experience removing my radiator last year, but the shroud came out with little effort.

I replaced the compressor hose that travels the drivers side of the car since my original had friction damage from the steering column. THIS was not an easy job, but I devised a system of installing it from the rear and working towards the front that worked very well. Just enough room.

I'm stoked to finally have some A/C in the car. Heading down to DMCNW for a system check and recharge next week.

[dmc6960]

Had a little time tonight. Performed the final latch-lock modification and did come cleanup of the goop on the interior of the drivers door for the vapor barrier.

[DrJeff]

Installed a replacement reverse light switch from Hervey. Work first time, no copper washers needed as spacers. Didn't look like a NOS switch like the previous replacement. I managed to do the replacement without lifting the rear, just need to get your head into the driver's rear wheel well.

Adjusted the passenger stricker pins AGAIN, so the passenger can get out without having to nudge the door.

Cleaned the contacts on the drivers door light switch with a nail emery board. Now the door lights come on bright every time.

Jeff
#6313

[EdR5150]

(Over the past several days)
-Replaced trunk struts and door struts (no pics, not exciting)
-Fiberglass screen over cabin air intake, cleaned under windshield grill10672
-Installed new O ring, previously missing, between airbox and mixture control unit 10673
-POR 15 Painted Sway bar10676
-Poly bushings for sway bar and LCAs10675
-Replaced Lock Module Breaker, added ring terminals for connections, eliminated some T-Taps 10674

[Ashyukun]

- Road tested the new bike rack over a couple hundred miles so I could vet any issues with it before driving the long haul down to DCS with it.

- Put a plastic mesh 'screen' over the intake/drain opening under the front of the windshield to help keep junk from getting in and clogging the air box drain for the n-th time

- Figured out why the aux input on my head unit wasn't working so I won't have to rely on the radio transmitter to listen to the XM radio on the drive to and from DCS

[dmc6960]

Reassembled 95% of the interior. Glovebox lid, and all kneepads got the re-dye treatment the day before. Center console, binnacle, and rear trim pieces will come at a later time.

Finished the exhaust gasket replacement and installed band-clamps instead of the U-clamps that came with the Stage I exhaust.

I just may drive it for the first time this year tomorrow.

[vwdmc16]

- Road tested the new bike rack over a couple hundred miles so I could vet any issues with it before driving the long haul down to DCS with it.




Id like to see some pics of that. Im thinking of making a bike rack for my car too.

[dmc6960]

Finished the inside of the drivers door. Installed the door launcher actuator and the door lock actuator. Fumbled for a while to figure out which bolts/screws go where, then installed the interior door handle assembly. Finally, I installed several layers of sound-absorbing polyurethane foam into the vast crevices of the lower trim panel.

Alas, I still have not driven it yet.

[jawn101]

Installed 100% LED on the driver's side - taillight cluster and front turn signal/running lamp. Still trying to decide if the lamps are bright enough to be safe. Love the look of the immediate flash, but the light output isn't as high and the color isn't as rich on the turn signals.

[dmc6960]

Drove it, ha ha!

Reinstalled the wiper arms with new blades.
Adjusted the transmission crossgate cable so my 1st, 2nd, and Reverse work properly again.
Mounted the empty shell of the new rear-view mirror (this will give the stickypad time to adhere, the heavy glass and electronic guts will be added in a few days).

Finally took it for a quick drive around the block and for some fresh gas. Looks like my original fuel sender is finally giving up the ghost, took 2 minutes to go back to full. That'll be remedied later this year when I complete the prototype new gauge cluster.

Tomorrow it goes for a 100+ mile drive. No problem!

[DeLorean03]

Got it home. Fixed the ground for the auto transmission gear selection light. Fixed the plastic piece that houses around the auto transmission shifer.

Looked at it for a lil' bit :).

[dhaney]

Decided to drive the Delorean to work on Friday (6/1/12).

Taking my usual route I'm cruising off I25 and on to Auraria Parkway headed for downtown Denver.

As we come off the ramp and onto the the street near the Pepsi Center I see a (look at me red) Porsche 911. I can tell it has either been customized or is not your average Porsche as it has a very tall wing on the back.

Through normal migration of traffic it ends up right in front of me as we make our way on to Market street as we both made a right hand turn onto 17th street I could see I was right the Porsche didn't have and chrome or badging on it but instead painted under the wing were the letters GTR3.... it was one of these...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_911_GT3

As we made the turn onto 17th (a 4 lane wide SE bound one way street) the Porsche rolled lane into the furthrest left lane at the next light. I decided on lane 3 since it was open and I would be turning right in a few blocks, plus there was already a car in lane two. I really didn't pay attention to the car next to me at first other than noticing it was a very black Mercedes. As I was sitting there I glanced over at the black car and that was when I noticed the AMG badging which peaked my interest. That is when I noticed the V12 BITurbo badging in front of the AMG badge... It was one of these....

http://www.topspeed.com/cars/mercedes/2010-mercedes-sl65-amg-by-wheelsandmore-ar97668.html

As I was sitting there admiring the Mercedes, the driver never even noticed me or the Porsche on his left. My guess is he knew his car was bad ass and could care less about us how the other half lives.

That is when I glance over at the car pulling up to the light on my right. To my amazement it was a brand new Jaguar XK GTR-S all decked out in Jaguar factory logos. Obviously a Jaguar promotional vehicle of some type. One of these....

http://www.jaguarusa.com/build-your-own/?id=xkr-s

The Jag driver gave me a nod as he passed and then took a right onto Larimier and went on his day.

We needed a picture... Since it was a beautiful Friday morning every one of us had the same brilliant idea... why not drive the toy to work today!!!

I was also sitting there thinking three things....
1. There is more than $450K in autombiles sitting at this light AND A Delorean...
2. There is more than 1500 HP sitting at this light AND my Delorean's puny 135...

And #3.... If they decide to try and Drag race I will simply open the door into parade mode and raise a white flag in defeat.... since I had brought a bow and arrow to a Nuclear war....

I don't think any of the other three drivers had any idea what had just happened...

Dan

[dustybarn]

Installed Grady front springs, DPNW swaybar bushings, DPI front license plate bracket.

It was a long day.

[pt11334]

yesterday after 3 hours of hard work and kneeling on top of the engine, I replaced the impossible. What is the impossible, the damn clutch slave cylinder. No more leaks and all this time I thought it was my transmission leaking. Next, the fuel pump and the 2 hoses inside the tank. I took a look inside my gas tank, and the return hose broke in two and the hose that goes under the fuel pump is kink beyond repair.

[vwdmc16]

I found my driver front lower balljoint nut was trying to escape which would have been real bad if its plan hadn't been foiled.

[MML]

Took the binnacle off and removed the instruments, a spider had found its way in there and died behind the clear plastic right below the speedo!
Also glued on part of the black surround on the binnacle's edge as it was becoming unstuck.

[ccurzio]

Took the binnacle off and removed the instruments

How complicated a job is this? I may need to pull the binnacle to get at the upper speedo cable sometime soon and I've not found a decent guide on binnacle removal.

[MML]

How complicated a job is this? I may need to pull the binnacle to get at the upper speedo cable sometime soon and I've not found a decent guide on binnacle removal.

Had to do it three times now, almost can do it in my sleep!! It's really easy. You just have to undo six nuts and off it comes. You disconnect two wiring connectors and unclip the speedo cable before you lift it off entirely though.

It helps if you have a spine like a circus acrobat as it involves lying upside down in the footwell!

http://dmcnews.com/Techsection/binnacle.htm

[jawn101]

It helps enormously to remove the driver's seat, and if at all possible the steering wheel. Just the seat will be enough to do it easily though. Lay on your back in the footwell and as was already said - 6 nuts, 2 clip connectors and the speedo cable.

[SIMid]

How complicated a job is this? I may need to pull the binnacle to get at the upper speedo cable sometime soon and I've not found a decent guide on binnacle removal.

+1 Tempted to replace all the bulbs (minus the battery light bulb) with LEDS/SMDs. Anyone quickly know which bulbs I need for the whole illumination?

[sdg3205]

+1 Tempted to replace all the bulbs (minus the battery light bulb) with LEDS/SMDs. Anyone quickly know which bulbs I need for the whole illumination?

Ozzie did a write up on this. There should be a link on his profile!

EDIT - Here it is (http://delorean2109.blogspot.ca/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html)

[SIMid]

Ozzie did a write up on this. There should be a link on his profile!

EDIT - Here it is (http://delorean2109.blogspot.ca/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html)

Thanks mate! I did see the thread, but thought someone might know off the top of their head. Bookmarked! :)

[mluder]

Took the binnacle off and removed the instruments, a spider had found its way in there and died behind the clear plastic right below the speedo!
Also glued on part of the black surround on the binnacle's edge as it was becoming unstuck.

I have both of these problems... Fortunately the spider is tiny so I'm going to ignore it until I replace the binnacle.

More importantly, what type of adhesive did you use for the black plastic trim piece? I haven't fixed mine yet because I wasn't sure if I should use regular trim adhesive from a spray can... and if so, how was I going to control overspray.

Cheers.
Steve

[MML]

I have both of these problems... Fortunately the spider is tiny so I'm going to ignore it until I replace the binnacle.

More importantly, what type of adhesive did you use for the black plastic trim piece? I haven't fixed mine yet because I wasn't sure if I should use regular trim adhesive from a spray can... and if so, how was I going to control overspray.

Cheers.
Steve

Those little farkers can find their way in anywhere!! He even had the cheek to die in there...

As for the glue, I just ran a bit of bog-standard superglue in behind and held it down with a clothes peg. If you do the same, be sure to leave it a while so the fumes evaporate away or it may fog the clear plastic!

[DMC5180]

Did some deep cleaning in the trunk area and replaced 4 missing M5 riv-nuts in random locations of the access panels. Next up is a making a new carpet board that fits properly. My original is warped pretty bad over the tire well. The new board will be 1/4 inch masonite so it should be twice as durable than the original. FWIW: I don't carry the useless spare anymore.

[sdg3205]

FWIW: I don't carry the useless spare anymore.

Why not? Even if it's crap, isnt it better to run it than a blown tire if you have NO other option (like no cell service for AAA)?

Just curious, from what I can tell it's still a decent spare.

[Nicholas R]

Why not? Even if it's crap, isnt it better to run it than a blown tire if you have NO other option (like no cell service for AAA)?

Just curious, from what I can tell it's still a decent spare.

I agree. I mean the spare is pretty much useless but I'm pretty sure it could get me to the next exit ramp or at least onto the back of a roll-back truck/trailer. I actually drove on mine a few years ago because I wanted to see if it would hold air. It was a bumpy ride but it holds air surprisingly well. In 2 years the pressure dropped from 60 to 40psi. Not too bad all things considering.

[Tillsy]

Did some deep cleaning in the trunk area

Snap - I did likewise last night! Before and after shots below.

[WelmoedJ]

Have modified the ground lead according to Bitsyncmaster's suggestion (use of 10 AWG ground wire to shifter mount bolt).
Results in a more stable dash (lights), a bit higher Voltage = +.1 Volt, more stable fuel gauge, fuel warning light now comes on close to 1/8 of the scale (before it started to flash reaching 1/3).
Voltage now doesn't drop that significantly as before the change has been made (then a drop to below the 13V mark was "normal" when either lights or original fans came on), now it stays at +13V when fans or lights come on.

Next job is modifying ground wiring of fans and head lights.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Have modified the ground lead according to Bitsyncmaster's suggestion (use of 10 AWG ground wire to shifter mount bolt).
Results in a more stable dash (lights), a bit higher Voltage = +.1 Volt, more stable fuel gauge, fuel warning light now comes on close to 1/8 of the scale (before it started to flash reaching 1/3).
Voltage now doesn't drop that significantly as before the change has been made (then a drop to below the 13V mark was "normal" when either lights or original fans came on), now it stays at +13V when fans or lights come on.

Next job is modifying ground wiring of fans and head lights.

The fans already go to frame ground, but the OEM wire is a little small. I should probably up that ground wire AWG.
The Headlights are the ones to wire to frame ground. That will just about remove high ground currents back in the relay compartment.

[WelmoedJ]

The fans already go to frame ground, but the OEM wire is a little small. I should probably up that ground wire AWG.
The Headlights are the ones to wire to frame ground. That will just about remove high ground currents back in the relay compartment.

That's the intended route I want to go.

I also have in the works calendar your ground changes for the relay compartment.

For now I'm going to replace the fans for those new low current ones.

[MML]

Big day for me today, took the car for its first NCT (National Car Test) inspection, (required by law), it would be the equivalent of the MOT in the UK, not sure what it's called in the US. Happy to say it passed with flying colours. The only possible issue was the rear side marker lights, apparently they'll mark you down for having them, so I just taped them over. You don't get them on cars over here.

Also, I was out for a quick spin this evening, pulled into a garage forecourt to turn around, and got ambushed by two photographers! Spent the next half hour letting them snap away. Hope to get some of the shots soon. I'm finding it hard to get used to this new-found popularity!

[DMCMW Dave]

Big day for me today, took the car for its first NCT (National Car Test) inspection, (required by law), it would be the equivalent of the MOT in the UK, not sure what it's called in the US. !

There isn't one in the US. You can pretty much drive complete crap here with bad steering, one working brake caliper, and no brake lights here and nobody cares until a wheel falls of and you run someone over. Some states/areas do emission testing.

[DMC5180]

Why not? Even if it's crap, isnt it better to run it than a blown tire if you have NO other option (like no cell service for AAA)?

Just curious, from what I can tell it's still a decent spare.

I stopped carrying it a few years ago. A calculated risk I chose to make. I liked the extra storage space when packing for long road trips and the fact that most of the long trips involve other Deloreans too. Finding a spare would not be an issue.

[pezzonovante88]

I took the car to its first cruise night. Lots of admirers and no disrespect. The car was running so well today - it felt faster and the engine was running much smoother with no lugging/lurching under acceleration. I hope it stays like that!

[jackb]

Last week I crossed 69(lol),000 miles without realizing it. Which irked me because I was looking forward to it for all of the 68,000's. Caught this pic on the way home last night though.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_1898.png

[SIMid]

Last week I crossed 69(lol),000 miles without realizing it. Which irked me because I was looking forward to it for all of the 68,000's. Caught this pic on the way home last night though.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_1898.png

Sexy time!

Picked up the Delorean last night after the expensive rebuild on the box. Wow! Changes smoothly and that feeling of compression of slowing down in 3rd lifting off the thottle is gone. Hope to take her for a gentle cruise this long weekend. :)

[Farrar]

There isn't one in the US. You can pretty much drive complete crap here with bad steering, one working brake caliper, and no brake lights here and nobody cares until a wheel falls of and you run someone over. Some states/areas do emission testing.

I just got a state inspection: check function of turn signals, headlights, and brake lights; look for "check engine" light; make sure windshield is not cracked.

In the old days, they had a skid pad and other fun stuff ...

[jawn101]

I just got a state inspection: check function of turn signals, headlights, and brake lights; look for "check engine" light; make sure windshield is not cracked.

In the old days, they had a skid pad and other fun stuff ...

My wife and I lament the lack of CA state inspections every single day. We came from MA and NY before that where such things were mandatory and though annoying, at least provided the slightest bit of assurance that the cars on the road weren't total garbage. If you took your own cars to a place you trusted to go the extra mile doing your safety check, you'd definitely leave at least feeling confident in your own car.

Here we see cars driving around with no bumpers, no hood, no working lights, viciously bent wheels, broken windshields, you name it. Cars here don't rust, not even a little bit - so people think they're probably fine to drive forever with no (non emissions-related) maintenance.

As long as you aren't putting out one single PPM of smog over the limit, that is. Bent wheels, no hood no lights and no windshield? Get that thing on the road! One extra hydrocarbon molecule in your exhaust? F!@K YOU!

[Dangermouse]

I just got a state inspection: check function of turn signals, headlights, and brake lights; look for "check engine" light; make sure windshield is not cracked.

In the old days, they had a skid pad and other fun stuff ...

I think Georgia inspected my check for the tax, but that was about it. Didn't even look at it when I registered it.

[Farrar]

I just got a state inspection: check function of turn signals, headlights, and brake lights; look for "check engine" light; make sure windshield is not cracked.

Forgot to mention that they also checked the horn.

$10 well spent. :lol:

[Kevin]

Finally finished installing my new fuse box. Mine was a pretty typical example of an original fuse box with melted fuses and new fuses spliced inline to replace the melted ones:

10869 10870

Now I've got all the fuses back in one place and it's much tidier.

10871

I also stupidly poked my headliner with my hot soldering iron, so now I've got a nice hole in it. I've been wanting to buy new headliner anyway.

[Jonathan]

Finally finished installing my new fuse box. Mine was a pretty typical example of an original fuse box with melted fuses and new fuses spliced inline to replace the melted ones.

Question for the group. Is what Kevin described here "typical?" I.e. do 51% or more of the cars out there have melted fuses in their 31 years on the road? I wonder because my car has no fuse box melting evidence. There are plenty of other typical issues on the car (angle drive for example) but melting fuses has not been one of them.

[mluder]

Forgot to mention that they also checked the horn.

$10 well spent. :lol:

Is your horn original and if so... did they laugh at it?

Cheers.
Steve

[jawn101]

Question for the group. Is what Kevin described here "typical?" I.e. do 51% or more of the cars out there have melted fuses in their 31 years on the road? I wonder because my car has no fuse box melting evidence. There are plenty of other typical issues on the car (angle drive for example) but melting fuses has not been one of them.

Yes, I think it is. My car was very well kept over its life, but still had melted fuses.

Today I drove it to work. One last trip before the major surgery this weekend. Tonight I pulled the lower engine cover, rear fascia, stiffener, impact absorber, muffler and heat shields. Cleaned and shined all the muffler hardware - still shiny perfect yellow zinc under the inch thick blackness!

Tomorrow I will pull the T-panel, headliners and drive axles, then keep cleaning things until the engine removal brigade arrives Saturday morning....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Question for the group. Is what Kevin described here "typical?" I.e. do 51% or more of the cars out there have melted fuses in their 31 years on the road? I wonder because my car has no fuse box melting evidence. There are plenty of other typical issues on the car (angle drive for example) but melting fuses has not been one of them.

My guess is yes. I think the connectors used on the OEM box were marginal and when you get oxidation with age it gets hot. Mine had shown sign of heat on the fuel pump fuse but was still working. If any of your fuses don't pull out easy, look closely at it and you will see it has overheated.

[Farrar]

Is your horn original and if so... did they laugh at it?

Cheers.
Steve

This was my daily driver, not the DeLorean. However, no, my D horns are not stock, just for the record.

[jawn101]

This was my daily driver, not the DeLorean. However, no, my D horns are not stock, just for the record.

Mine are... my wife says they sound like a Barbie Power Wheels. Maybe it's time to start a new "what aftermarket horns do you like" thread :)

[Jonathan]

Is your horn original and if so... did they laugh at it?

Cheers.
Steve

Mine was definitely worthy of being laughed at a few years ago. It was once described as sounding like a dying giraffe.

Before:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksVCUsomU6w

[Jonathan]

After:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyGHEzc7S8U

[vwdmc16]

OMG that original horn is so sad! It is a dying giraffe!

[dmc6960]

OMG that original horn is so sad! It is a dying giraffe!

Cheap generic auto parts store horns can do wonders. 12 years old and still going strong...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InMhkDUw8Bs

[mluder]

After:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyGHEzc7S8U

Not too bad... Very simmilar to the original. What did you use?

I like the original European sound. Some one once said an American horn sounds like, "GET THE FU@K OUT OF MY WAY!" While the British sounding DeLorean hors sounds like "excuse me... would you mind ever so much if I just... could I please pass through... thanks."

Cheers.
Steve

[Jonathan]

Not too bad... Very simmilar to the original. What did you use?

http://store.delorean.com/p-6956-assy-horn-low-note.aspx

Believe it or not, these are the straight forward ones right off of the DMCH website. I figured one of my horns wasn't chiming in properly, so I bought one each of the low and high note. Super easy to install and for $15 each, quite reasonable. I highly recommend them!

[dmc6960]

Finished the first heated and cooled seat. This seat is the passenger seat, so I'll be driving to DCS with the drivers and passenger seats swapped. The heater also is not hooked up yet, and the controller for the cooling is also not built yet. So for now it'll just have an on/off for the cooling fans at full speed. An update coming tonight at the seat thread...

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3473-Heated-AND-Cooled-Seats

[jawn101]

Hell of a weekend. Removed the engine and transmission. Degreased and cleaned the entire frame and every plated part in sight, all of which came back to a really nice yellow shine. Tore off the manifold, valve covers, timing cover, oil pan and crankcase. New gaskets on all of the above. Resealed the brass plug on the passenger side of the timing cover. New rear main seals. New A/C idler pulleys and o-ring. New pilot bearing. New clutch master and backup hood release cable. Flushed the clutch system. Tied up all the new A/C lines to the frame under the cradle where they belonged, but we couldn't reach when doing the replacement initially. Replaced all the bushings in the shift linkage. Tapped two stripped bolt holes (one in my manifold, one in my throttle body) so they seal better. Finally replaced the passenger side TAB, which was very bent. Did the drivers side a few months back and it was fine.

Right now the motor is on a stand half full with oil on its side to leak-test the new gaskets. Tonight I clean up the garage and find all my tools again, tomorrow I will rotate the motor to the other side. This week Clint is rebuilding the transmission (all new seals, o-rings, gaskets, roll pins, end nuts, bellows, you name it) and next weekend we will reassemble everything, with a new slave cylinder, clutch, throw-out bearing, pressure plate and flywheel.

Time permitting we also hope to remove the rear quarter panels and replace the ball stud brackets, then bolt down the roof box and possibly re-cover and replace the headliners.

Couldn't have done any of it without David and Clint's help! More accomodating friends never existed.

June is an exciting month for 2100...

[DavidProehl]

Had a great time helping out Jon, although Clint was definitely the expert calling the shots. I learned a ton. The more I learn about this car the more I realize how much I don't know. Looking forward to getting it all back together.

[jawn101]

Had a great time helping out Jon, although Clint was definitely the expert calling the shots. I learned a ton. The more I learn about this car the more I realize how much I don't know. Looking forward to getting it all back together.

I'm so sore I could barely move this morning and my hands may never come clean. But it was the best weekend I've had in years!

[SIMid]

Celebrated his/hers 31st Birthday. :)

http://i46.tinypic.com/25aiznk.jpg

[jafo2k]

Today: New fuel filter, accumulator, and fuel pump. Removed seats to install new carpet.

[jafo2k]

Celebrated his/hers 31st Birthday. :)


Happy Birthday. :biggrin:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Car is cleaned, packed and tire pressure, oil level and coolant level have been checked. I like packing a little early because I keep thinking of things I forgot while I'm still at home.

[DMC5180]

Hell of a weekend. Removed the engine and transmission. Degreased and cleaned the entire frame and every plated part in sight, all of which came back to a really nice yellow shine. Tore off the manifold, valve covers, timing cover, oil pan and crankcase. New gaskets on all of the above. Resealed the brass plug on the passenger side of the timing cover. New rear main seals. New A/C idler pulleys and o-ring. New pilot bearing. New clutch master and backup hood release cable. Flushed the clutch system. Tied up all the new A/C lines to the frame under the cradle where they belonged, but we couldn't reach when doing the replacement initially. Replaced all the bushings in the shift linkage. Tapped two stripped bolt holes (one in my manifold, one in my throttle body) so they seal better. Finally replaced the passenger side TAB, which was very bent. Did the drivers side a few months back and it was fine.

Right now the motor is on a stand half full with oil on its side to leak-test the new gaskets. Tonight I clean up the garage and find all my tools again, tomorrow I will rotate the motor to the other side. This week Clint is rebuilding the transmission (all new seals, o-rings, gaskets, roll pins, end nuts, bellows, you name it) and next weekend we will reassemble everything, with a new slave cylinder, clutch, throw-out bearing, pressure plate and flywheel.

Time permitting we also hope to remove the rear quarter panels and replace the ball stud brackets, then bolt down the roof box and possibly re-cover and replace the headliners.

Couldn't have done any of it without David and Clint's help! More accomodating friends never existed.

June is an exciting month for 2100...


What! You removed all your rust proofing? Oh, Wait your in California. I guess you don't need it :biggrin: On another Note: WOW! pretty ambitious undertaking in a short time span. :thumbup:

[AdmiralSenn]

Acid application #15, removed first chunks of broken tap from hole. If I can get the tap out tomorrow I will be in line to get her to DCS.

[jawn101]

What! You removed all your rust proofing? Oh, Wait your in California. I guess you don't need it :biggrin: On another Note: WOW! pretty ambitious undertaking in a short time span. :thumbup:

Haha! I have to hand it to that layer of gunk... it really protected things nicely. A lot of these plated parts (mounts, pulleys, brackets, etc) look like brand new, if a little dull underneath. Last time I cleaned the gunk off the back of the engine while it was mounted, I was rewarded by oil leaks everywhere. This time there's gaskets instead of caked on filth to keep the oil inside :)

And yeah it's a HUGE list of jobs we're doing. I couldn't have accomplished 90% of it even with infinite time without my partners in crime. One of these days I'm betting we'll see Wolff up there with Roush and Lingenfelter and Shelby. In fact, I should get his autograph on the motor now, while I still can.... ;)

[dvonk]

Acid application #15, removed first chunks of broken tap from hole. If I can get the tap out tomorrow I will be in line to get her to DCS.

glad to hear you finally found something that works. good luck with the rest of the tap! :thumbup:

[Kenny_Z]

I went to fix a leak under the t panel on the driver's side rear window. I was cleaning up the weather strip area to apply more rtv when I got a bright idea. One thing lead to another and now I know there's grain under that red paint. Pictures soon but Red will be sporting a stainless mohawk for awhile ;)

[Mark D]

....One thing lead to another ....

Yeah that's usually how it starts, and before you know it half the car is taken apart. :tongue2:

[ccurzio]

Replaced the angle drive and the lower speedo cable. Hooray for a working speedometer again!

[dmc6960]

Drove it almost half way from Minneapolis to Orlando.

[opethmike]

Put some spare belts in the trunk.

[Kenny_Z]

Yeah that's usually how it starts, and before you know it half the car is taken apart. :tongue2:

Oh yeah, I've done that several times. This time I kept looking from the bottle of my left over stripper to this panel and curiosity won.

Good news and bad news. The Tpanel is stripped. I found some odd damage. It's not dented...just scratched a lot. The blending pad could probably take it out if I worked and worked and worked at it. I might be looking to invest in a wolf wheel once the job situation works out.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan06.jpg

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan07.jpg

[pezzonovante88]

Oh yeah, I've done that several times. This time I kept looking from the bottle of my left over stripper to this panel and curiosity won.

Good news and bad news. The Tpanel is stripped. I found some odd damage. It's not dented...just scratched a lot. The blending pad could probably take it out if I worked and worked and worked at it. I might be looking to invest in a wolf wheel once the job situation works out.


So excited to see the transformation!

[jawn101]

Put a new oil filter on and rotated the engine 90 degrees on the stand. No leaks at all on the driver's side, now to give it a few days tilted on the passenger side. Looking forward to putting it all back together and taking a quick spin this weekend! Should feel like a very different car.

[dmcerm]

Between yesterday and today, I put a new CAI (Cold Air Intake) on the D. That old Volvo air inlet valve was stuck in the closed/hot position since I've owned the car, so I got that mess out of there and man does it suck air through that vent. It's the first time in 11 years of ownership that I could actually feel air being sucked through there.

If there is one thing an owner can do to get bang-for-one's-buck, I think this would be it. I know the engine certainly breaths better and that is a good thing for sure.

Just waiting on my K&N as well and I think the engine will be thanking me as time goes on. It really does make a difference... not 2012 Mustang GT fast difference, but for the D, you'll be able to tell rightaway the car is running better.

Have a good one!

[Spittybug]

+1. Although I went EFI a while ago and don't have the stock manifold or air cleaner anymore, I was running a hose to the passenger pontoon and had a K&N filter in there. I recently removed that setup and simply connected the filter to the mouth of the throttle body with a short piece of metal tube and the rubber boot. I traded cooler air from the pontoon for a much shorter intake pathway.

Result? The intake air gets to about 170* or so, but not higher. Yes cooler would be better, but the throaty growl I now experience from the engine/exhaust sounds great! I can't definitively say how much of my performance (not scientifically measured) gain is attributable to the air intake or the improved tune/advance profile that I've worked on, but being that air volume is key and air is what makes "growl", I think this was a big factor. Plus it looks cool through the clear engine cover.

Now if I can just get the front wheels to stay on..........

[jfirios]

the rebuild continues, though I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have finished installing the stereo system and had the new window motors replaced and tinted and new headliners. Biggest was redoing the amp rack and installing the center part of the shelf which holds the capacitor and the back wall complete with speaker and ipad intergration.
BTW, DAMN, does this system kick significant A** and for all those who said a 10" sub is too much in that car, have no idea what your talking about. With the proper sub volume controls you can keep it at a nice level or really make it thump. The deeper frequencies it puts out is amazing.

[jfirios]

+1. Although I went EFI a while ago and don't have the stock manifold or air cleaner anymore, I was running a hose to the passenger pontoon and had a K&N filter in there. I recently removed that setup and simply connected the filter to the mouth of the throttle body with a short piece of metal tube and the rubber boot. I traded cooler air from the pontoon for a much shorter intake pathway.

Result? The intake air gets to about 170* or so, but not higher. Yes cooler would be better, but the throaty growl I now experience from the engine/exhaust sounds great! I can't definitively say how much of my performance (not scientifically measured) gain is attributable to the air intake or the improved tune/advance profile that I've worked on, but being that air volume is key and air is what makes "growl", I think this was a big factor. Plus it looks cool through the clear engine cover.

Now if I can just get the front wheels to stay on..........

i use to have a cai in my old tuner and then i went through a deep puddle and tore my engine apart. I took the old system though and put it in the D. It is like yours, a SAI short arm intake, yes it is a little warmer with the air but it is still a cleaner system than the old filter and it does make the car a little more throaty.

[MML]

Now that the MOT test's done, I decided that I wanted to show my Outatime plate, and, of course, have the real one on too, so I got a couple of stainless brackets made up. They use the existing studs on the bottom edge of the fascia so if I ever decide to remove it in future you'd never know it had been there. It was either that or screw it to the right hand side of the bumper which I wouldn't ever do!

http://i.imgur.com/SbI8T.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iGBNl.jpg

[Kenny_Z]

Awesome plate set up.

I figured out why my driver's door was hanging up. I took the panel off to adjust the linkage. I got it working perfectly. Then I put the panel back together. I guess I bound or bent a rod because when I closed the door I couldn't open it back up. I had to pull the door back apart while it was shut end then figure out what was holding the door in the locked position. I eventually got it open and then gave up for the night. I'll put it back together tomorrow. By the way, anyone attempting to put those bolts back into the pull handle, do yourself a favor and get a piece of fuel or vacuum line this size:

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/d02.jpg

It made putting them in a breeze. That thing is going in my toolbox.

[jawn101]

Finished rebuilding the shift linkage. Cleaned and polished the transmission mounts and mounting hardware. Cleaned the starter. Installed a new jump lead and rubber boots. Briefly considered rebuilding my remaining CV joints but my back was hurting too much to hunch over that today. I'll get to them one day...

[vwdmc16]

I used my car's hood as a table for holding the workshop manual and small parts for Un1 im rebuilding in front of the car.

[Tillsy]

Removed fuel tank - took a few hours longer than I anticipated :)

Charging battery for second time in as many weeks as my daughter is obsessed with spending 30-60 minutes in my DeLorean each night and she's killing the battery!

Replaced the door handles a few nights ago with the metal ones, SOOOOO much better!

[MML]

Got a couple of packages in the post today. First were Byrne Heninger's strut brackets, which are an awesome bit of kit. They look really solid!
Second was a plastic stopper for plugging into the cigarette lighter when I'm not using the USB charger adapter. I modelled it up and had it 3D-printed on www.shapeways.com.

http://i.imgur.com/GgvCB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jpErP.jpg

[ccurzio]

Installed a battery cutoff switch in preparation for working on the fuel pump.

[jackb]

Installed the shock tower bar. Piece of cake, 5 min job, and it makes a noticeable difference.
Washed it.
Drove it.

[Citizen]

I used my car's hood as a table for holding the workshop manual and small parts for Un1 im rebuilding in front of the car.

Just a friendly suggestion: NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER (did I say never?) put ANYTHING on the hood of a DeLorean, so to help prevent it from getting the dreaded "X".

I think nobody really knows how it happens, but I know of at least three theories. 1) PUTTING STUFF ON THE HOOD. 2) Overfilling the compartment below, then trying to force the hood closed, and thereby the X-brace pushes up from below. 3) Slamming the hood to close it, by dropping it from up high, which would seem to put undue pressure on the smooth outer skin.

Oh yeah, just one more thing; DON'T PUT ANYTHING ON YOUR HOOD!

Thomas

...

[AdmiralSenn]

Cleaned the brownish, grody chemical byproducts out of my Hole of Doom. Added new acid with renewed enthusiasm. Continued final reassembly of passenger door.

If this acid bath works I may even get to fire her up tonight or tomorrow.

[jawn101]

Got the motor and transmission reinstalled last night. Got the exhaust and intake all put back on today. Motor starts up and is running great but the clutch now isn't disengaging. Research time...

[stevedmc]

Drove it 700 miles without a glitch.

[jawn101]

Looked at it sadly and willed the mail to come faster so I can start getting it back on the road. Glued an aluminum reinforcing bar to the top of the rear headliner backer so when it's recovered it won't sag, hopefully.

[DavidProehl]

Looked at it sadly and willed the mail to come faster so I can start getting it back on the road. Glued an aluminum reinforcing bar to the top of the rear headliner backer so when it's recovered it won't sag, hopefully.
Getting the proper part now? Excellent! You'll be back on the road soon. Just frustrating I know.

[jawn101]

Getting the proper part now? Excellent! You'll be back on the road soon. Just frustrating I know.

Well, here's hoping... getting another of the same part that hopefully will work... :)

[jackb]

Installed the luggage rack.
Should have been a 15 minute job, but if you drill the holes the tiniest bit off you will spend a LONG time with a rat tail filing the hole bigger in the correct direction. On top of it all, one of the brackets interferes with the rear louvre hinge bracket the smallest bit, but enough that It needs to be taken care of. I think I'm going to try and remove equal parts luggage rack bracket and louvre hinge bracket to fit.

[Farrar]

Went to visit the car in the garage today. I noticed one of the headlight bulbs was askew. Took it out, dropped a screw behind the fascia as usual. Decided I need to replace the headlight buckets -- they're pretty rusty.

[Lenny]

I don't like driving in the rain so it looks like I won't be driving for a while

[Jonathan]

Had a great week back in Ontario and put about 300 miles on the D. Car started, ran, and drove like a champ all week. One of those days it was really warm and really humid, and so I learned what it sounds like when your pick-up hose on the fuel pump suction side is temporarily cinked from the fuel getting hot in the tank. Thanks to Dave S for a reassurance email about 15 minutes after I sent out the message saying it is not that unusual. Sure enough, after letting it cool down in the parking lot in the afternoon, the noise didn't reappear.

I did get some practice driving in some crazy rain storms though... wow! I only wish I did a better job at my windshield reseal project last season!! Oh well, good excuse to take the metal trim off for a repaint and put some 3M Window Weld in there while it's apart. But hey, the wipers did well!! lol

Now it's parked again for another couple months as I'm back in Alberta :( I put the house up for sale though, so it might be sooner than later that little Ms. 3937 takes an auto transport journey out West to join me at my future new digs :)

11367

[jawn101]

Made an even bigger mess of it this weekend. Got another pressure plate that also didn't inspire confidence. Removed the transmission to see if anything else was obviously amiss with the release problem. Nothing was. Got frustrated. Discovered that the manual shift mechanism had gotten bent and the primary pivot had come loose. Removed it yet again (this is a terrible job) and straightened it, pressing the pin back in. Removed the driver's side rear quarter panel to prepare to replace the ball stud bracket. Destroyed the inner door seal. Messed up the plastic infill panel while chiseling it out. Old bracket was very bent. Laid the new one in place and for some reason (a variation in my fiberglass?) it's also crooked. Not sure what to do about that. Got frustrated again. Bolted down the rear edge of the roof box which was lifting up. This went OK. Recovered all four headliners, which also went very well. So now the car has no transmission, no driver's side quarter panel, no T panel, no inner door seal, no headliners. Should have YET ANOTHER (third time's the charm, right?) clutch kit on the way. Next weekend should see all of this mess cleaned back up, hopefully. I'm tired of being frustrated by the car and just want to go enjoy it again.

[DMC5180]

Removed passenger side mirror glass (aftermarket Extended view w/heater) Transfered heating element to the replacement DMCEU Wide Angle Glass and added a bonus feature that I'll talk about once both sides are done and operational. Reinstalled mirror assembly on door. That wide angle really makes a difference.

[DMC5180]

Now it's parked again for another couple months as I'm back in Alberta :( I put the house up for sale though, so it might be sooner than later that little Ms. 3937 takes an auto transport journey out West to join me at my future new digs :)

11367

Jonathan,

Do you know Mike Fischer? Calgary DMC owner. I chatted with him at DCS-12 He said, they have small Calgary area club 5 cars. You could be the 6th. So let me guess your employed in the Oil Industry.

[Jonathan]

Jonathan,

Do you know Mike Fischer? Calgary DMC owner. I chatted with him at DCS-12 He said, they have small Calgary area club 5 cars. You could be the 6th. So let me guess your employed in the Oil Industry.

Hey Dennis,

Yea, I hope to be the 6th!! lol I met Mike and Dave C pretty soon after getting here in May. Great guys. I have seen Dave's car only, and that was shortly after he got it back from Toby. I am in a downtown apartment in Calgary so I'm going to wait til I get something permanent before bringing my car out here. Something about sketchy parking lots doesn't make me too comfortable leaving the DMC to fend for itself. Although that might be pretty soon as I have been busy looking at houses.

Good guess... ya, oil and gas. But more specifically, water treatment within that industry. It is a brand new company about one year old and there are about 15 of us all from other water treatment backgrounds that are taking a stab at solving some of the province's water problems. There are a couple "eye sores" up north here from the oil industry and I hope to make a difference cleaning them up. Those "tailing ponds" don't represent the whole landscape up north, but they are the most common thing to get attention even though they are a small percentage of the water related stuff. We do a lot of potable and waste systems and getting more and more into process water. It might not sound all that exciting to the average person, but for a water treatment guy it definitely is. I left a pretty cushy spot back in Ontario, but my heart wasn't in it. Hoping that changes out West :)

[Tillsy]

After a very long weekend of little sleep (rest chemical treatments required reapplication every few hours throughout the night) I repaired rust damage between frame and fuel tank due to leaky brake master cylinder. Of course I had to clean my garage afterward from all the mess the angle grinding made :)

Entire fuel, brake, clutch, and coolant systems now removed for complete replacement.

Few more things to take apart plus waiting on three more deliveries from various DMC dealerships - I can then finally start reassembling her.

Replaced the seat belts with Aussie compliant ones, so aside from the door handles a few weeks ago that is at least something that has been bolted back on :)

[Kevin]

Fixed my A/C!

I hadn't turned it on in probably over a year, so I assumed the refrigerant had leaked out. Took it to a shop to get it checked for leaks and for a recharge, turns out everything was fine. Then I noticed the vacuum line to the heater valve was disconnected and thought "waaaiiit a minute." Turns out coolant was still going through the heater core, thus heating up my cold air.

So a $40 trip to the shop ended up being a 10-second fix. But at least I know my compressor is good and my refrigerant is topped off.

I think I'm going to pick up a pair of those A/C vents now so I'm not losing precious cold air in my doors.

[seventy4burban]

Well I picked up my bracket off the firewall and the two trailing arm covers from the powder coating place.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Stainless]

Well I picked up my bracket off the firewall and the two trailing arm covers from the powder coating place.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Don't you know that anyone that still uses their trailing arm cover is a gosh dang commie?
Reference: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1341-Anybody-that-still-runs-dustshields-on-their-D-is-a-GOSHDARN-COMMIE&highlight=commie

[seventy4burban]

Gosh I had no idea trailing arm covers were such a hot topic. I figured I would clean them, clean the frame area around them, put them back on and be done with them.

I live in Yuma so water and mud aren't on the top of worries.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[jackb]

Drove rather... "spirited" through a dip in the road on the way home and may have cracked my radiator. Hard to tell exactly where it's leaking from, but it appears to be from where the plastic joins the metal.

[Victor]

Pressure wash the engine and transmission from the bottom. Start the engine at idle afterward to let everything dry. Replaced retracting plate and parking brake pads (was a tricky job to removed the pad on the side of the ajustement lever because of the spring and barrel in the way). Changed the steering bushing earlier this week (went ok, but It is a job I don't like to do. It is my second bushing change of two different D).
Repainted all four wheel and clear coat them (with harderner, a little matting agent, and a little silver brillant powder in my clear). The end result is just a little more glossy than the job I also did on a previous D. But the result is great. It is between a powdercoated finish and a glossy finish in a sense. I'll send some pictures soon. I had a garage installed my tires back on. I watch carefully that the teck guy (boy) did not nicked them. He did not recognized from which car theses wheel belong to.

[jawn101]

Drove rather... "spirited" through a dip in the road on the way home and may have cracked my radiator. Hard to tell exactly where it's leaking from, but it appears to be from where the plastic joins the metal.

If it's an original radiator, this is almost 100% certain to be the case.

[Tillsy]

Cleaned tank (inside and out), replaced the padding, installed new integrated pump/sender unit, and refitted back into my D. Getting the tank back in with new padding proved to be a tight squeeze :)

That said, this was the easy job - replacing the fuel filter turned into a few hours more work than I was expecting (naturally it'd take no time if I did it again!).

[jawn101]

Cleaned tank (inside and out), replaced the padding, installed new integrated pump/sender unit, and refitted back into my D. Getting the tank back in with new padding proved to be a tight squeeze :)

That said, this was the easy job - replacing the fuel filter turned into a few hours more work than I was expecting (naturally it'd take no time if I did it again!).

Ha, that damn fuel filter :) It's in an awful place.

Tank looks good! Seems like everyone's putting those new pump/sender combos in.

[jawn101]

Cleaned the inside (as best I could) and surface of the roof box. Re-applied RTV around the access panel, door wire mounts and trailing edge. Scrubbed down the interior roof to prep for the new headliners to go in. Taped all the wires back up. Cleaned and reassembled the interior, all that's missing now is the headliners and seats.

[Tillsy]

Put 10L of gas in her belly and pressurised the fuel system for 15 minutes (yes overkill but I'm anal and was busy checking everything a thousand times for leaks).

Temporarily reconnected the coolant system and filled.

Cranked her over and #6679 instantly roared to life!

During the 20ish minutes I ran and checked her for my 2.5 year old daughter tested everything electrical - lights, stereo, windows, etc. Seemed to pass her tests too :)

Start putting the brakes back together next meanwhile ripping the crappy 30 year old rubber coolant hoses, radiator, and fans out and replacing with upgrades.

[Delorean02378]

With the help of another local owner (tgraham), the radiator and hoses on 15500 were changed out last Saturday just in time for the record heat we've been having. Friday 6/29/12 was the hottest day on record in Nashville ever at 109 degrees.

On the way home from NOROADS garage, my car hit 7000 miles. Exciting Stuff!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcuQXoZlafY


Kirk

[ccurzio]

On the way home from NOROADS garage, my car hit 7000 miles. Exciting Stuff!

So I'm assuming that the car was destroyed at 7002 miles since you were videotaping and staring at your dashboard while doing 75 MPH? :)

[DrJeff]

Fitted the dome light dimmer module for LED lights /parade mode unit from bitsyncmaster. My windows were fogging up this morning so I went ahead and did the Mode control switch that I had been putting off. Since I was behind the center console I aslo did the LED replacement bulbs and also the headlight switch bypass/relay from the Wings-Aloft crowd. A few more items knocked off the todo list.

[DrJeff]

I forgot, I also fitted a small toggle switch inline with the driver's door switch. This way if I run the car with the door open (think parade mode) then I can just reach down and flip a switch to disable that horrible buzzing sound.

[Chris 16409]

I forgot, I also fitted a small toggle switch inline with the driver's door switch. This way if I run the car with the door open (think parade mode) then I can just reach down and flip a switch to disable that horrible buzzing sound.

I did the same thing on my car. I hate that buzzling, so I can eaisly switch it off if my doors are open for any amount of time with the key in the ignition.

[Chris 16409]

Installed my new adjustable alternator belt tensioner.

[jawn101]

Removed all traces of weatherstripping and adhesive from the T panel and driver's side quarter panel. California doesn't have naptha for sale (of course, it's useful so why sell it?) so it was just me, a bottle of goo gone and 100 of the crappiest razor blades Harbor Freight has to offer. Took about 4 hours but everything is nice and shiny and ready for the new seals coming this week, hopefully!

[Chris4099]

Installed my new adjustable alternator belt tensioner.

Hey, I just installed one a few days ago too! Working great.

[Fox2506]

Boss caught me in the CNC lab pressing in new pulley bearings for my AC. It was worth it.

[SIMid]

Tried to put on some rubber hosing on the torsion bars to stop rubbing when the doors are opened and closed. Passenger went on fine, but the driver's side is impossible.

Can I use the butt of a screw driver to flex with leverage, so that there's enough room to slip it on? I'm scared of putting too much force and breaking it. Also, not sure if it would make a difference, it's winter here, so should I do this now or in summer?

[Dangermouse]

You should just need it in the areas where the hinges are. Mine was tight but I was able to get some thin wall rubber tubing (split length wise) around it and held on with tie-wraps.

I think you will dent the stainless before budging the torsion bar with a screwdriver butt.

[DrJeff]

When the headliner was replaced by the PO, who ever did it reconnected the front dome light incorrectly (*see below). While the ON mode worked, the AUTO mode did not but I didn't notice as I had immediately switched to LED internally when I got the car (LED's don't dim with the stock dimmer module).

I installed BitSyncMaster's "dome light dimmer/parade" module ready for the 4th July parade. BitSyncMaster was very kind in helping me diagnose my mis-wired front dome light, which since it wasn't wired correctly didn't let the module work correctly. Many kudos to BitSyncMaster :notworthy:

Everything is working perfectly just in time for the 4th July :cheers1:

* Toggle was connecting Purple to Ground (ON) and Purple-White to Ground, instead of Purple to Ground (ON) and Purple to Purple-White (AUTO).

[Chris_Von_Bron]

Not sure if this qualifies as it took longer than a day :wiggle:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l55/Chris_Von_Bron/UIJ%20197/DSC_0003.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l55/Chris_Von_Bron/UIJ%20197/DSC_0008.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l55/Chris_Von_Bron/UIJ%20197/DSC_0012-1.jpg

How it was done:-
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4477-Swapping-the-stereo-and-airvents-the-other-way-around-%28maintaining-stock-operation%29&p=63522#post63522

[pezzonovante88]

Not sure if this qualifies as it took longer than a day :wiggle:

Nice work! I have a similar setup.

[Chris_Von_Bron]

Do you have any photos of how you tackled the internals, i.e. did you apply a different approach?

[SIMid]

You should just need it in the areas where the hinges are. Mine was tight but I was able to get some thin wall rubber tubing (split length wise) around it and held on with tie-wraps.

I think you will dent the stainless before budging the torsion bar with a screwdriver butt.

I'll only trying to put them on the rear hinge of the doors. It's fairly thin rubber, but think enough to not slide between the gap.

So I can put a bit of force without breaking the bar?

[vwdmc16]

Installed a new fuel pump pick up hose and inserted a 7/16 coil spring inside it to prevent the new one from collapsing, Ive yet to test but I hope it will cure my off idle stall that i occasionally get at stop lights, I doubt very much however that it was the culprit.

Now back onto the front suspension :tongue_stick:

[Chris 16409]

Installed a replacement radio antenna (Metra 44-PW22). Picked it up on eBay for $22.00. The local auto part stores sell them for double the price. I had the same brand of antenna in my car before, except the mast on the replacement is silver (my old one was gray). The box says the mast is stainless, so I guess that's better than gray. Since it was the same antenna, no wiring mods were required. Here's the eBay auction for reference (use the "Best Offer" feature):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170866457314

[jawn101]

Reinstalled the rear quarted panel. Tonight is the T panel and rear fascia, then a test-fit of the new headliners. Hopefully tomorrow is a clutch install and get her moving again!

[jfirios]

Got my center console back from my body shop, test fit it in the car.

[jfirios]

got clipped by a hit and run the other day. then someone stole my front grill. Not really what I did to my car but what someone else did to it. Bunch of savages in this town.
:(

[dvonk]

man, that sucks! sorry to hear it. :frown:

[pezzonovante88]

got clipped by a hit and run the other day. then someone stole my front grill. Not really what I did to my car but what someone else did to it. Bunch of savages in this town.
:(



What a bunch of f***s.

[DMC5180]

got clipped by a hit and run the other day. then someone stole my front grill. Not really what I did to my car but what someone else did to it. Bunch of savages in this town.
:(

How much other damage besides the stolen grill? The A-hole must have known how the grille attaches to go through the trouble, Unless it was partially knocked loose by the Hit-N-Run

[MML]

How much other damage besides the stolen grill? The A-hole must have known how the grille attaches to go through the trouble, Unless it was partially knocked loose by the Hit-N-Run

I've often thought about how easy it is to remove the grill. There must be some way to thief-proof it, maybe bolt it on from behind or something, so that you have to remove a headlight to get to it. It would be worth the hassle I think, as you're talking over 400 dollars for a new grille and badge.

[Farrar]

Not my car, but considering I've done more work on others' DeLoreans than I have my own for over a year, I figure it's worth posting.

A fellow D owner about an hour and a quarter's drive from me blew his head gasket, and then had them replaced. The mechanic gave the car back to him running very badly. Since it's his only car, he needs to have it running reliably, so an emergency get-together was scheduled for this morning. I arrived late -- they were installing new spark plugs as the ones installed were black with soot.

Although he could get the engine started with starting fluid, it wouldn't idle -- without his foot on the throttle, the engine would die. We verified fuel pump relay was good and no blockage in the fuel lines. After starting the engine, we listened to it and it sounded like the timing was WAY off. I could smell unburned gasoline within seconds.

Four DeLorean owners present, and I am the only one with a timing light...

... but NONE of us had an 11mm wrench! :lol:

So after a quick trip to pick up the appropriate tool, the timing was adjusted to roughly the top mark at idle. The timing is slightly above 10°, but he has other problems including a lack of rest/residual fuel pressure. An afternoon thundershower prevented us making any more progress, but at least he now has a car that he can drive anywhere, provided he has a can of starting fluid handy.

I am hoping that the "carma" I acquired from this sojourn will aid me in solving the "no start from key" problem on my own car, which I hope to tackle later this month.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've often thought about how easy it is to remove the grill. There must be some way to thief-proof it, maybe bolt it on from behind or something, so that you have to remove a headlight to get to it. It would be worth the hassle I think, as you're talking over 400 dollars for a new grille and badge.

I've run across one bolted on from behind. Very theftproof, but, yes, a hassle. Especially when we didn't know it was attached like that!

[Tillsy]

Latest progress is further along than planned - I've delayed my next works of installing new radiator, fans, and silicone hoses in favour of focussing on getting her onto the road and registered first. Then I'll take her apart again :)

So new booster/servo, master cylinder, various hoses and clips, etc fitted and the brake and clutch reservoirs cleaned and looking brand new (excluding yellowing obviously). Boy that booster was a difficult bugger to get out and in!

Have fired her up a few more times to run-in and more thoroughly bleed the coolant given I'll leave her running this way for a month or two.

[opethmike]

Picked up some connectors and pigtails to convert my stock idle speed control to a modern idle air control valve setup, controlled by my Megasquirt ECU.

[jfirios]

yeah i know it sucks. It was a little loos from the impact. He scrapped the front of my bumper and pushed the grill into the drivers side lights. Luckily the damage is just to the facia and the headlight buckets. Danny wrote me up an estimate over at DMC Cali, just the headlight replacements and buckets and R & R of the facia, 1800 bucks. Though I am thinking of taking this opportunity to custom make a new front grill. Possibly fiberglass or carbon fiber and have the DMC logo lit up to match the back lit delorean letters in the rear facia.
Had i been one inch behind he would have missed me all together, had i been an inch forward, he would have taken the bumper off and possibly bent the front frame.
So looking positive on it, It could have been a lot worse.

[jawn101]

Cleaned the garage around it. Pretty sad that I still can't drive it, but trying to stay optimistic and look forward to how great it will be when I can again.