What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[ccurzio]

Kenny has an old Houston take off system. Yours is our full stainless system. Very easy to install. I you need help just give me a call or email. Almost always available. I stop answering around 2am eastern standard time.

I appreciate the support, but I'm probably going to hold off until I an get someone who knows what the hell they're doing to help me out. This is a little too far above my head I think. :)

I want to make sure that the exhaust leak I have goes away when I put the new system in rather than put everything in only to find that it needs to come back out again.

[Kenny_Z]

Torque everything to spec and you'll be fine. I'm only worried about removing the old rusted bolts and breaking them.

I should have specified that I purchased that older set that Josh was selling a few days ago. The ceramic coating is the look I've wanted for Red's exhaust.

[ccurzio]

I'm only worried about removing the old rusted bolts and breaking them.

This is the other thing I'm worried about. If this were to happen I wouldn't know how to deal with it.

I just unboxed my system and there are no instructions. This is a case of "you really need to know what you're doing to attempt this." Without installation instructions I couldn't attempt this even if I thought I could do it. :)

[DMCMW Dave]

I just unboxed my system and there are no instructions. This is a case of "you really need to know what you're doing to attempt this." Without installation instructions I couldn't attempt this even if I thought I could do it. :)

Short version of what the instructions would look like:
1 - Take off all the old exhaust parts. (Instruction sheet would never explain how to not break studs)
2 - Fix all the studs that broke (this will not be in any instruction book). Don't drill holes through the heads.
3 - Put on all the new exhaust parts starting with the headers.

So you are correct - it's not lack of instructions as much as needing to know how to deal with old rusty parts.

[Chris4099]

When I got my spec 1, Josh had sent me an E-mail with the directions. Pretty straight forward though, but still very useful. So they do exist, just not in printed form.

As for the studs, I didn't worry about them. I broke 2 or 3, but I just used the unused holes and put new studs in there. My old studs are still there and not being used. It's not pretty, but it was a lot less aggravating then trying to pull them and deal with drilling/tapping.

[ccurzio]

I would need something really broken down, like "first, remove the rear fascia" followed by step-by-step instructions on removing the fascia.

I am of course assuming you have to remove the rear fascia to remove the old exhaust and put in the new.

[Delorean Industries]

I would need something really broken down, like "first, remove the rear fascia" followed by step-by-step instructions on removing the fascia.

I am of course assuming you have to remove the rear fascia to remove the old exhaust and put in the new.

you do not need to remove the fascia.

[Dangermouse]

This all sounds like a great "New" thread, cough, cough, so we can all find it again when our time comes.

[Delorean Industries]

SPEC I exhaust systems are on special today. Purchase the system and receive a complete tune up kit free.

[mluder]

I would need something really broken down, like "first, remove the rear fascia" followed by step-by-step instructions on removing the fascia.

I am of course assuming you have to remove the rear fascia to remove the old exhaust and put in the new.

Chris,

It's actually not that hard to tear down the rear end. I tore it donw as well as my engine, wiring etc last summer when I rehabbed my engine bay... And prior to that I had absolutely no experience working on cars. Dave Graham has a pretty good how-to on rehabbing the engine bay and if I recall it walsk you through removing the fascias and impact absorber.

First and foremost, take your time and really look at things. Use lots of penetrating oil on the bolts, screws etc. Take lots of photos. And don't force anything. If something's not budging you may have missed one or more fasteners.

You can do it. (and I accept no reponsibilioty if you screw things up :cool1:)

Cheers.
Steve

[mluder]

you do not need to remove the fascia.

This is true... I've had my muffler off a few times without removing the fascia.
However, if your working on the ground without a lift, it's much easier to remove the muffler with the extra access you get from removing the fascia.

Cheers
Steve

[DeLorean03]

On Thursday, put my driver's door back together. My DeLorean doors now have all the trim back on them and look complete again for the first time since September 12, 2012.

[opethmike]

On Thursday, put my driver's door back together. My DeLorean doors now have all the trim back on them and look complete again for the first time since September 12, 2012.

*thumbs up*

Door work can be quite the pain in the ass. A few years ago, I had to sort out all manner of things with both doors. VERY glad that is over and done with!

[pezzonovante88]

*thumbs up*

Door work can be quite the pain in the ass. A few years ago, I had to sort out all manner of things with both doors. VERY glad that is over and done with!

It sure can. I'm dreading taking mine apart again in the Spring to deal with the lock sticking.

[vwdmc16]

Drove to work yesterday for an alignment, today im driving around for errands but man she is running like shit, time to take her off the road for yet more work....

[Mike F]

Oil and filter change, and replacement of the leaky gauge pressure sender today. That old sender was a pain to remove! Ended up having to vice grip it off after it starting spinning freely inside itself (there's another "frustration" thread about that from earlier today)!

Old filter and sender. You can see it's been leaking for some time:
1585715858

New filter and sender installed. I extended the wiring to accomodate the new connector style (spade vs. ring), put on a new connector, and sleeved it with icorally tubing and heat shrink:
1585915860

I know it's still oily there; that will be cleaned off soon! :wink: The sender throwing me for a loop made the job take much longer than I anticipated and I ran out of time before I had to call it a day this afternoon. In theory there shouldn't be any "new" oil coming out of there anymore, so hopefully once I clean it up it will stay that way!

[DeLorean03]

*thumbs up*

Door work can be quite the pain in the ass. A few years ago, I had to sort out all manner of things with both doors. VERY glad that is over and done with!

I would almost make my car a Jeep before doing that again. Man alive.....

It isn't too bad now that I know a good amount of information, but man diving into that with NO experience - whew - what a journey.

[pezzonovante88]

I called up Julee at MW and ordered some new wheel caps, belts, fir trees, a new interior rear-view mirror, and a warm-up regulator. Trouble is, the WUR is on back order and there are six orders ahead of me! I will be sending the core in asap. Also, I'm going to install my new stainless door sill letters from PJ Grady.

[WelmoedJ]

I called up Julee at MW and ordered some new wheel caps, belts, fir trees, a new interior rear-view mirror, and a warm-up regulator. Trouble is, the WUR is on back order and there are six orders ahead of me! I will be sending the core in asap. Also, I'm going to install my new stainless door sill letters from PJ Grady.

If you think your WUR is not okay, why not open it yourself and look into it.
You may be able to rebuild the WUR yourself.

I had never opened one and yet I've cleaned and restored a number up to now.
They all are still doing their job.

My only advise is: use good and undamaged screwdrivers.
You also may have to correct/replace some of the wires.
But it's all doable.

[pezzonovante88]

If you think your WUR is not okay, why not open it yourself and look into it.
You may be able to rebuild the WUR yourself.

I had never opened one and yet I've cleaned and restored a number up to now.
They all are still doing their job.

My only advise is: use good and undamaged screwdrivers.
You also may have to correct/replace some of the wires.
But it's all doable.

Because I have a tendency to ruin things lol. I'll be lucky if I can even get the thing out of the car, let alone rebuild it! But, the thought had crossed my mind - we'll see.

[WelmoedJ]

Because I have a tendency to ruin things lol. I'll be lucky if I can even get the thing out of the car, let alone rebuild it! But, the thought had crossed my mind - we'll see.

Rebuilding is the opposite of taking apart ;)
If you have trouble reminding what goes where, use the camera and document each step of the disassembling job.

My advice on using good tools, means fitting tools.
Make sure you clamp the unit in a bench vise.

You will need some force on the four bolts that hold top and bottom together.
That also may apply to the bolt holding the heater unit and the four bolts that keep the membrane in place.
Use WD40 generously on all bolts outside and inside in the unit before attempting to remove them.
Once the membrane is out of the way you can start cleaning the openings to the fuel connections.

I have found the inside of the lower half (vacuum) not being defective, so leave that as is.

Be careful not to damage the seal between upper and lower half of the casing and the O-ring of the membrane.
Check the little "piston" in the membrane covering plate to see if it's undamaged.
That part is not sold separately and I have seen it being damaged on one occasion rendering the unit useless.
Check the wiring of the heater element and replace if damaged.
You may want to use teflon hose to keep the new wires safe from unwanted grounding.

Hope this will help you.

[Jonathan]

Today, or someday in the near future, I hope to summon the courage to use my heat gun on the passenger side rear interior panel vinyl and get it removed. Driver's side had already been opened up by a PO, but I'm not convinced I know what I'm doing enough not to destroy the passenger side as well. I'm in the middle of my stereo and speaker replacement project and it has ground to a halt until this panel comes out.

In the meantime, I took off the rear fascia edging strip that was rusted and crooked. It is another project waiting to be done, and it now hinges on figuring out the best way to install the replacement SS studs onto the underside of the plastic bumper. Once the 7 old and broken ones are cleaned up and ground down flat, I figure the replacement studs are either getting screwed into place or glued in some way. If anyone has done this before, feel free to share how you did it.

And if I procrastinate any further on those two projects, I'm considering taking the binnacle apart to replace my trip reset shaft. Maybe some light bulbs in there while I'm at it. If the car comes apart into any more pieces, it might be easier to put it all into boxes and throw it in the storage space in the basement.

159041590515906159071590815909

[refugeefromcalif]

I Abused mine today... :shock:

We had a bit of snow here in Alabama and my car was out in it.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=15911&d=1358453205


I Promise I'll make it up to her...

George

[DavidProehl]

I Abused mine today... :shock: :shhh:

We had a bit of snow here in Alabama and my car was out in it.



I Promise I'll make it up to her...

George

That reminds me, a friend posted this sighting to my FB wall. It is of a car in Hutchinson, MN. I sure hope this was a one day thing and isn't being stored outside like this regularly. However the way they shoveled the snow around it and the placement of the garbage cans suggest that this is its normal resting place.

15912

[jackb]

This afternoon was a beautiful, sunny, 72 degrees.
I replaced both doors lower seals and the gas/brake/clutch pedal rubber.

[Mike F]

Yesterday:
Rebuilt HVAC mode switch, and replaced headlight switch with DMCH upgraded unit. Rebuild kit worked great, and that upgraded headlight switch is pretty slick. I like the LED "fade" effect when turning it on and off.

While I was in the area, I set out to get the stereo working:

15937

Given this rats nest, it's no wonder that it didn't work. Hasn't since I've had the car. It amazes me how some people take the "use whatever tape, etc. is around" method to wiring sometimes. On the plus side, all of this garbage was on the aftermarket side, so the factory harness and wiring was still intact. I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning (tape heads, etc.):

15939

Re-did the harness (fortunately this old Kenwood utilizes a common ground system, so it's compatible with the way the car is wired):

15938

And now it works like a charm! It's nice to have some tunes. The rear speakers are pretty much shot, but the fronts work great. I will eventually replace it all with upgraded stuff, but for now this is much better than nothing!

Fast forward to today...

Got stranded for the first time! At least, sort of. The hot start issue persists even after replacing the accumulator and PPR o-rings, and I haven't managed to chase it down yet. It will typically start if it sits an hour or longer so I've been able to take out for dinner, etc. Took it out for lunch today, which is unseasonably warm. After an hour, wouldn't start. 1:30, no dice. Ended up taking about 2:15 and it finally fired up. Could have been much worse, I suppose!

[Jonathan]

Got stranded for the first time! At least, sort of. The hot start issue persists even after replacing the accumulator and PPR o-rings, and I haven't managed to chase it down yet. It will typically start if it sits an hour or longer so I've been able to take out for dinner, etc. Took it out for lunch today, which is unseasonably warm. After an hour, wouldn't start. 1:30, no dice. Ended up taking about 2:15 and it finally fired up. Could have been much worse, I suppose!

If you've already replaced the accumulator and PPR o-rings with ones known to be okay, is there any chance perhaps something is not right on the suction side of the fuel pick-up hose? I say this because when you mentioned the part about it being unseasonably hot there, the one day here in Ontario last summer where I would have described it that way as well, I had a new issue with my fuel pump making funny noises and whatnot. It turns out it was related to the fuel in the tank being rather warm and this came to mind on your car. Might be worthwhile having a look around in your fuel tank and seeing if the pick-up hose is the problem.

[DMC5180]

Yesterday:
Rebuilt HVAC mode switch, and replaced headlight switch with DMCH upgraded unit. Rebuild kit worked great, and that upgraded headlight switch is pretty slick. I like the LED "fade" effect when turning it on and off.

Re-did the harness (fortunately this old Kenwood utilizes a common ground system, so it's compatible with the way the car is wired):

15938


Nice harness work Mike. Very professional.

[jawn101]

It was over 70 in the Napa valley today, so we took a drive out to Suisun for breakfast and then up to St. Helena. Over 100 miles clocked and she hit 54,000 in Oakville!

[Mike F]

If you've already replaced the accumulator and PPR o-rings with ones known to be okay, is there any chance perhaps something is not right on the suction side of the fuel pick-up hose? I say this because when you mentioned the part about it being unseasonably hot there, the one day here in Ontario last summer where I would have described it that way as well, I had a new issue with my fuel pump making funny noises and whatnot. It turns out it was related to the fuel in the tank being rather warm and this came to mind on your car. Might be worthwhile having a look around in your fuel tank and seeing if the pick-up hose is the problem.

Not a bad idea to check. That's really one of the areas I haven't done anything in since I got the car (fuel pump, filler area, etc.), since the pump has been functioning seemingly well. This was really the first warm day that I've driven it, so it stands to reason that you may be onto something here...


Nice harness work Mike. Very professional.

Thanks!

[ccurzio]

Installed GS450's aluminum seat backs.

[WelmoedJ]

Drove my D to a meeting some 65 Mi away (1 hour trip).
Speeds between 92 and 80 MpH.

Weather forecast said snow in the afternoon.
Temperature 21.2° F (-6° C)
Surely it started to snow by 3 PM.

Return trip in snow (approx 2 inches, highway less) took 2.5 hours.
Speeds between 35 and 80 MpH.

D behaved splendidly: engine ran immediately on one turn of the starter (no heat riser).
This was both right out of the garage and after 4 hours on a parking lot, covered in snow).

Who says a D is not reliable?

Only one minor issue: when using the A/C and heater on max, I still get cold air.
Can't find any "holes" in the airbox, flaps seem to close (thumps heard).
My understanding is that A/C flow through the heater core should produce warm air, not cold air.
Any suggestions?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Running "MAX" AC will turn off the heat. If you ran AC "normal" and set the temp for heat than it should blow hot air.

[WelmoedJ]

Running "MAX" AC will turn off the heat. If you ran AC "normal" and set the temp for heat than it should blow hot air.

Thanks, Dave.
Oops: Haven't thought of that .
Will try that on a next run.

[DMC5180]

Thanks, Dave.
Oops: Haven't thought of that .
Will try that on a next run.

In addition using A/C with those Low Ambient temps will likely do nothing. The LOW pressure cut out switch will prevent to the A/C cycling. Just use Heat or Vent and the air blend control to regulate the temps.

[Bitsyncmaster]

In addition using A/C with those Low Ambient temps will likely do nothing. The LOW pressure cut out switch will prevent to the A/C cycling. Just use Heat or Vent and the air blend control to regulate the temps.

Agree, but my daily drivers work the AC in cold temps on defrost setting. I wonder if new cars bypass the low pressure cut out.

[DMC5180]

Agree, but my daily drivers work the AC in cold temps on defrost setting. I wonder if new cars bypass the low pressure cut out.

Here's a copied post from a GM tech thread:

"AC in general does not work under 32 degrees. Same in Houses or Cars. R12-22-134a will start freezing up their evaporator coils at those temps. The refrigerant wont be gas coming back to the compressor and it will liguid slug the the compressor valves.

Your AC compressor does turn on for defrost in winter, it works because youre running hot coolant through the coil right next to the AC coil under the dash.

Im not sure how they do it on cars but for running AC in the wintertime on resturants or houses There is a pressure switch to shutoff the outdoor ac Fan. It Keeps the refrigerant pressure up so the coils wont freeze. "

" the bcm locks out the compressor in temps below 40 its controled by the outside ambinet temp sensor colder than 40 it gets locked out! "

Welmoed said he was driving at 21 F. Interestingly enough the the static pressure in the system is about 20 PSIG. The low pressure switch is set at about 26-28 where it cuts out. The system just does not come on period. The threshold temp is about 30 F where the system pressure would be around 26 PSIG. At 35F ambient it would cycle very fast.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This probably is not the thread for this but...

Our office has a lab area where the AC runs even on the coldest winter days because of all the equipment turned on and producing heat.

I have seen where the AC in the D will turn on once, pull the pressure down to the cut off point and not go back on until the next warm day. I think the switch cuts back on at 40 to 50 PSI. So your AC would not cycle quickly at those very low temps.

[DMC5180]

This probably is not the thread for this but...

Our office has a lab area where the AC runs even on the coldest winter days because of all the equipment turned on and producing heat.

I have seen where the AC in the D will turn on once, pull the pressure down to the cut off point and not go back on until the next warm day. I think the switch cuts back on at 40 to 50 PSI. So your AC would not cycle quickly at those very low temps.

Yeah I forgot about the CUT-IN pressure requirements.

[pezzonovante88]

So, the plan was to put the car up on jack-stands and remove the wheels to have them refinished. Sounds pretty darn simple, right? Well, here's what happened:

15945

This one is upside down, but it is the bottom flat portion of the rear of the frame cross-member on the driver's side. As you can see, it is now dented. Anyway, this is the one I'm worried about.
15949

This one shows the cracking in the epoxy as a result of this.
15947




I just really hope this is easily repaired and hasn't caused any serious damage. Any thoughts?

[DeLorean]

Installed period correct Nackamichi head unit, removed the craig for the last time, which was starting to eat tapes! Also replaced the rear speakers, I had done the fronts last year. The rear panels, likely I had been the first one to remove, ever... Pain in the ass, but a touch of the heat gun loosened up the glue and allowed me to remove them without damage... Those were pretty interesting. many mounts seemed to not be used, however between the weatherstrip, and the 3 screws they did seem to be quite securely mounted. I could only imagine if the other 3 points were used... they seemed to be a clip type that maybe were impossible to install? Also, the lower mount portion of the panels had 3 screw holes in the panels, but only one in the tub, and only one was used. Craigs had faulty foam, replaced with Kenwood 4X10's - which I take it should be at least a marginal improvement.

While I was at it - and because 1/2 the interior was already out, I tightened up all the tub to frame bolts, all of which were loose. Also, vintage Alpine alarm is going in too. Keyless entry on the way!

[Jonathan]

This one shows the cracking in the epoxy as a result of this.
15947




I just really hope this is easily repaired and hasn't caused any serious damage. Any thoughts?

Do you have any pictures of this spot on your frame from before, to know for sure you caused this cracking today?

My first thought was that it looked like something that had been there longer than from just today.

My second thought was, don't worry, it hasn't caused any immediate problems nor will it anytime soon. If indeed you want to clean it up, basically grind or sand down any surfaces cracking or peeling up and then paint over it with the gray coloured POR-15. That'll fix it up as about as good as you can do. But don't go for any salty Ontario road drives until you do :)

[THVGJP]

Inspecting trunk area for source of leak, weather here is 5 F, with winds at 30mph, -10 windchill. Even in my barn out of the wind I can only work 20 min at a time before I start freezing up. I guess its dedication or insanity, dont know which. At least it gives me something to do on my day off an gets the D ready for spring.
Glen

[pezzonovante88]

Do you have any pictures of this spot on your frame from before, to know for sure you caused this cracking today?

My first thought was that it looked like something that had been there longer than from just today.

My second thought was, don't worry, it hasn't caused any immediate problems nor will it anytime soon. If indeed you want to clean it up, basically grind or sand down any surfaces cracking or peeling up and then paint over it with the gray coloured POR-15. That'll fix it up as about as good as you can do. But don't go for any salty Ontario road drives until you do :)

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the crack is new. I'll have to straighten-out the metal that is now bent and then grind and paint. Bummer.

[pezzonovante88]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the crack is new. I'll have to straighten-out the metal that is now bent and then grind and paint. Bummer.

I wonder what sort of hammer would work in such a small space.....

[jackb]

There is a vehicle scale on base, so I drove it to work today to satisfy my curiosity. The scale moves in 20lb increments, so it's not perfect, but good enough for free.

With a completely full tank of gas, spare tire in the car, nothing else:

FRONT: 1040 (1120 with 180lb driver in it)
BACK: 1780 (1880 with 180lb driver in it)
TOTAL: 2860 (3020 with 180lb driver in it)
F:R ratio- 36.8:63.1 (37.3:62.6 with 180lb driver in it)

[DeLorean03]

Installed the fuel pump/sender combo. Everything went well - UNLESS your fuel tank is pushed too far forward. If that happens, you will NOT be able to clear the pump's electrical connector or the feed and return fuel hose nipples. No matter what configuration I tried, it wasn't happening. We had to start the three bolts facing the ground, then the middle bolt facing the windshield, and then i had to stand on the spare tire cover while Ken started the other bolts.

Just saying - if your fuel tank is pushed just a whee bit too far towards the headlights = not a fun day.

[DeLorean03]

Finished the installation of the driver's side inner door seal. DPO cut a chunk of it out, so when I re-measured the length I forgot to take that missing piece into account. Had to measure the length of the missing piece, cut that out, and then use some small cylinder-shaped foam to connect that piece to the rest of the inner door seal with the assistance of 3M black weather stripping glue. Let that sit for a week, and yesterday it was good to go!

Once that was said and done, Nick Roedl and Ken K helped me re-align my door at the hinge bolts to help line it up with the striker pins better. We finally got the door to where it shuts pretty good, and the driver's side door now "launches" with WingsAloft 8-9/10 tries with the remote!

Patience.....patience....patience....

[DavidProehl]

Did a complete brake system overhaul (master cylinder, cleaning and caliper rebuilds, rotor turning, ss line installation) with the help of Clint and Jon! Thanks guys! You are awesome. Couldn't have done this without you!

Details and pictures of the effort are here. (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5808-Planning-Brake-System-Refresh-What-Should-I-Replace-and-What-Should-I-Leave-Alone&p=88265&viewfull=1#post88265)

[jawn101]

Did a complete brake system overhaul (master cylinder, cleaning and caliper rebuilds, rotor turning, ss line installation) with the help of Clint and Jon! Thanks guys! You are awesome. Couldn't have done this without you!

Details and pictures of the effort are here. (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5808-Planning-Brake-System-Refresh-What-Should-I-Replace-and-What-Should-I-Leave-Alone&p=88265&viewfull=1#post88265)

What he said. Amazing that we crammed 36 man hours into today but the finished product was worth it :)

[Chris 16409]

Bought a pair of stainless DMC door sill letters to use on my air (cleaner) box. My original air box sticker looked really tired, and instead of getting a NOS one, I thought I'd try the door sill letters instead. My friend got a NOS sticker a year or so ago, and it is already fading and browning. The stainless letters are just a bit bigger than the letters in the sticker. Now, I just have to figure out what to do with the other set!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Bought a pair of stainless DMC door sill letters to use on my air (cleaner) box. My original air box sticker looked really tired, and instead of getting a NOS one, I thought I'd try the door sill letters instead. My friend got a NOS sticker a year or so ago, and it is already fading and browning. The stainless letters are just a bit bigger than the letters in the sticker. Now, I just have to figure out what to do with the other set!

I used the hood emblem on my air cleaner. Was going to use the grill emblem but it looks to big.

[pezzonovante88]

I might get the SS sticker kit one of these days. Looks better than stock and will last.

[Chris 16409]

I used the hood emblem on my air cleaner. Was going to use the grill emblem but it looks to big.

I was considering the grill emblem, but I was able to get this pair of door sill letters for $25. The grill emblems are over $60. And you would have to cut the mounting posts off. You have a picture of the hood emblem on your air box?

[cybercusp]

Where did you find the door sill letters? I thought they quit making them because of issues with them coming off.

[Chris 16409]

Where did you find the door sill letters? I thought they quit making them because of issues with them coming off.

See the guys over at the EuroTec Forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=431

They were £15 shipped to the US. Much cheaper than what they sell (sold) for here. They come without adhesive, so I used the super strong 3M mounting tape. They also sell the bumper letters for £20.

[pezzonovante88]

See the guys over at the EuroTec Forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=431

They were £15 shipped to the US. Much cheaper than what they sell (sold) for here. They come without adhesive, so I used the super strong 3M mounting tape. They also sell the bumper letters for £20.

Wow. A lot cheaper than the ones I just bought from Grady. Oh well....

[jawn101]

See the guys over at the EuroTec Forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=431

They were £15 shipped to the US. Much cheaper than what they sell (sold) for here. They come without adhesive, so I used the super strong 3M mounting tape. They also sell the bumper letters for £20.

Damn that's a great deal. For that price I might actually have to break down and get some of these.

[Chris 16409]

The same fellow also sells the stainless engine grills. Got mine shipped to California in about a week.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was considering the grill emblem, but I was able to get this pair of door sill letters for $25. The grill emblems are over $60. And you would have to cut the mounting posts off. You have a picture of the hood emblem on your air box?

Here it is.

[cybercusp]

See the guys over at the EuroTec Forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=431

They were £15 shipped to the US. Much cheaper than what they sell (sold) for here. They come without adhesive, so I used the super strong 3M mounting tape. They also sell the bumper letters for £20.

That is a good price. Ordering..

[jawn101]

Drove it to work. Almost got run down by a giant Brinks cash truck whose driver was taking pictures of me. I thought those guys were supposed to be unflappable?

Took a few minutes when I got home to install something I've been wanting for years....

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16101&d=1359507908

Thanks, David!

[DavidProehl]

Lookin' good Jon! No problem!

[jawn101]

Ordered a set of the side sill letters from the Eurotec forum. Great price!

[thirdmanj]

I moved over the summer to a small studio apartment (location, location, location) without a garage, so the car has been outside all the time since then. On Monday I finally picked up a car cover for it.
I like this cover, it's definitely quality, and it fits the Delorean perfectly.
It was $73 at NAPA, after tax and AAA discount. Size B.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3875_zpsc29c41d5.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3876_zpsd8458d5f.jpg

Just ordered on of these things. 1258s about to become a daily driver...

[Jack]

Just ordered on of these things. 1258s about to become a daily driver...

I had got one also, amazon had them for 53.
Mines a daily driver also, be extremely careful with hot tail pipes.
They go through this cover like butter.
I grazed them while installing the cover after a drive once. :(
The holes are in places that don't matter and I can patch them, but still it was brand new only had used it 3 times.

[jackb]

:rant: $53?!?! Doh!
Oh well. Too late now. Thanks for the info about the tailpipes, I'll make sure to be careful.

[pezzonovante88]

I had got one also, amazon had them for 53.
Mines a daily driver also, be extremely careful with hot tail pipes.
They go through this cover like butter.
I grazed them while installing the cover after a drive once. :(
The holes are in places that don't matter and I can patch them, but still it was brand new only had used it 3 times.

Good advice. I always leave my cover folded up halfway up the louvres until the engine cools off.

[vwdmc16]

I drove to work and back today wearing some new industrial ear protecting headphones, man the car is quiet as a Rolls Royce now!!!

[Ryan S.]

When I bought my D, driver side window didn't work. It wouldn't open. I just hear the clicking noises. So today I took the door apart and found a broken plastic part between tube and motor. I added a metal brace (took me about 2 hours of trial and error) and now it works perfect. Saved $300. :headbang:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8440903000_4d2c2504b5.jpg Before

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8439814415_1300338907.jpgdrill a hole

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8464/8440926982_873db2db75.jpgmetal brace

[DavidProehl]

Nicely done Ryan! You have been going all out on this car since you bought it. Impressive. Most people take there time to work through these items, well done!

[vwdmc16]

Sweet, I hope that fix lasts!

[Ryan S.]

Thanks guys. I need to balance. I think I am spending way too much time on D. :wrenchin:
Yes, I hope it lasts. I am going be very careful when I close windows.

[Jack]

16177
All Spark Plugs were in the condition of #1 except #4, which was more red + white.

[Ryan S.]

When I bought my D, PO told me that center vent was broken. While I was trying to fix Craig stereo, I found out that vent was actually turned inside out. Louver bar was broken but was able to fix it with fishing lines. Saved $60!!!.
And I just received this from England. I bought it through Amazon for $2.99. (Cassette was $0.01 and shipping was $2.98 ) This brings back old memories especially listening it through cassette tape deck.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8446206229_bfbdf09c96.jpg

[DrJeff]

I added a 3D printed logo to the steering wheel on top of the center pad leather covering. The logo was 'printed' in stainless steel. The object is 3D printed with suspended stainless steel dust particles which gives it the dimpled look. Total cost $45 including shipping. The base is 1mm thick and the letters stand 3mm at the thickest.

163281632916330

[DMCflux]

Finally finished my front end/suspension restoration!! What a difference before and after...

[Ryan S.]

Replaced rear brake pads.
Drained and cleaned out fuel tank - pita. :angry:
installed DMC fuel pump combo unit. Looks nice and works well. However, I just cannot close the cover. New pump is too big. :banghead:
Rewired Craig radio harness and added aux mode. All 4 speakers are working. Hmmmm. Something didn't go right. Now cassette and radio don't work. :bash:

[cybercusp]

Replaced rear brake pads.
Drained and cleaned out fuel tank - pita. :angry:
installed DMC fuel pump combo unit. Looks nice and works well. However, I just cannot close the cover. New pump is too big. :banghead:
Rewired Craig radio harness and added aux mode. All 4 speakers are working. Hmmmm. Something didn't go right. Now cassette and radio don't work. :bash:

When I installed my combo unit I had the same issue with the cover not closing..start with the bottom screws and work your way out and up. I couldn't get the top screws in but the cover was secure enough and after driving for a few weeks the cover settled down and the top screws dropped right in! Hope that helps

[Ryan S.]

Thanks. I also screwed in bottom three. I'll wait a few weeks and see.

[DeLorean03]

installed DMC fuel pump combo unit. Looks nice and works well. However, I just cannot close the cover. New pump is too big. :banghead:


What has happened (possibly) is your fuel tank is pushed a tad bit too far towards the front of your car. Same thing happened with my install. I had to stand with my full body weight on the cover while someone else put in the screws that face towards the back of the car. It is worth it though!

[DeLorean03]

What did I do lastnight .... :D? Well, this!

16405

Why in the world would I do this??? Because this was waiting for me underneath the intake manifold!

16406

And here is where I stopped for the end of the night.

16407

Basically, there were two leaks underneath the intake. One was the fat, short hose from the back of the waterpump housing. The other was at the plastic "T" behind and underneath the fuel distributor and vacuum solenoid. While I am in here, I am changing the waterpump - just to be 100% safe.

Should be back together by next Thursday/Friday (It is in storage at Ken Koncelik's right now).

It is not as difficult as some might think. You just have to TAKE your time and GO slow.

[DMCMW Dave]

Btw that "plastic tee" should not be plastic.

[jawn101]

Btw that "plastic tee" should not be plastic.

Do you mean the one in the heater control valve assembly? (http://store.delorean.com/p-7672-bleed-adaptor.aspx, #5 on http://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx)

A certain 3rd party vendor sells plastic ones as "upgraded", right along side the "upgraded" hot water valve that seems to have a suspiciously high failure rate. Just wondering since I left that plastic tee without thinking too much of it after my hot water valve failed, and if you say it should be gone then it will be.

[DeLorean03]

Btw that "plastic tee" should not be plastic.

That's why I bought your brass one, Dave (: .

[thirdmanj]

Having a hell of a time with a f-ckin nut and bolt. The black support bar in the engine bay, the right hand bolt rattled loose, then stripped out. And I can't get the new sh-t to thread in! I spent two hours today, shimming, propping this way and that and the motherf-cker just won't bite! I've successfully cross-threaded it, twice. Which tells me I should be able to thread it the right way, but FML. This is just embarrassing!

[DMCflux]

I Installed my new DMC headliner!

[DMCflux]

Threw it on the lift to start my trans removal to have the 2nd gear roll pin issue fixed

[ccurzio]

Took it out for a quick and happy little jaunt since it's been sitting trapped in the garage for a little too long.

[Michael]

Late last year, I noticed my waterpump in the beginning stages of weeping so I nipped it in the bud and had the pump replaced Wednesday. It's been almost 4 years since I bought her and a little over 15k miles so today as long as its at the shop, I'm having a 15k service including trans service and brake fluid change. Tomorrow I will jack it up on a lift for one of my bottom to top detailing....Ready for Spring!!!!

Fun fact, I was under the impression the entire intake had to come off to replace the pump. I didn't like the idea of disturbing the fuel system, but they were able to replace it by only removing the runners. He replaced all the hoses as well.

[Farrar]

I exposed a hole in the body behind the right rear speaker, where water and bugs have been getting in.

In the process, I discovered that the previous owner replaced the rear speakers already with some by Pioneer.

[Stainless]

Restored one of my headlight buckets by using POR 15 and flat black paint. Discovered that the rust that I was seeing in the headlights was not from the bucket, but the headlight itself. May save myself the trouble and just get new headlights for the rest of them unless I find an excuse to remove the entire front fascia.

[DMCflux]

Restored one of my headlight buckets by using POR 15 and flat black paint. Discovered that the rust that I was seeing in the headlights was not from the bucket, but the headlight itself. May save myself the trouble and just get new headlights for the rest of them unless I find an excuse to remove the entire front fascia.

I just put new headlights in my D. Makes a world of difference, and a cheap ($$$) upgrade

[jawn101]

Drove it up to Sac to help Clint with some stuff. Tried to adjust the passenger side rear striker pin with little success, it is still dragging inside the door. I have more ideas to try tomorrow. I'm really packing the miles on this month and I love it!

[vwdmc16]

Really shouldnt let your fuse box get too hot.....


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/IMG_0954_zps9ae6bc82.jpg

[vwdmc16]

Drove it up to Sac to help Clint with some stuff. Tried to adjust the passenger side rear striker pin with little success, it is still dragging inside the door. I have more ideas to try tomorrow. I'm really packing the miles on this month and I love it!

Thanks again Jon, your the best!

How many miles now?
im at 54700 Youve probably passed me again.

[jawn101]

Thanks again Jon, your the best!

How many miles now?
im at 54700 Youve probably passed me again.

Nope! 54,300 but if you keep taking out your engine every weekend I will surely pass you again soon :)

[vwdmc16]

Ah, well hopefully im only down for 3 or 4 days and then we will see if the shite wiring really was to blame for this last year of poor running. Man I hope so.

[ramblinmike]

Just ordered a new brake master from DMCH and new stainless brake lines from Hervey. I've only been putting this off for 8 years or so........ :)

Now I'm off to investigate the green puddle the appeared earlier this week!

[DMC5180]

Just ordered a new brake master from DMCH and new stainless brake lines from Hervey. I've only been putting this off for 8 years or so........ :)

Now I'm off to investigate the green puddle the appeared earlier this week!

Probably just a loose hose clamp.

[DMCflux]

Today I pulled my trans. It took 2.5 hrs, Much faster than the first time

[SIMid]

Today I pulled my trans. It took 2.5 hrs, Much faster than the first time

Thats a clean frame!

[DMCflux]

Thats a clean frame!

Thanks. It wasn't bad to begin with, but I did have to use some por 15 in areas and then went over sections with rustoleum grey.

[jawn101]

Put in some wire mesh under the windshield cowl to keep crap out of the airbox. It's pretty remarkable that this wasn't thought of in the original design considering how huge the opening is!

It was a pretty easy job if you can find the right material. I ended up with an inexpensive aluminum grill meant for ventilation that I cut the frame off of, trimmed to size and glued down with some RTV. The grill cost $3.13 at Lowe's. With the cowl reinstalled the job is invisible.

Total crap pictures, sorry...

[dmc3130]

Worked on my VOD project that I started with the Great help from Clint, John, David, Charlie and Ryan. Ground down the casting slag on the intake and horn. Plus just general clean-up. Ceramic coated them and other items.....It's going to look great when it's all back together. Also thinking of painting the valve covers a wrinkle RED. With RED spark plug wires. Has anyone done this? I've looked for pics but can't find any that are like that. May be the first!!!!!!

[SIMid]

Put in some wire mesh under the windshield cowl to keep crap out of the airbox. It's pretty remarkable that this wasn't thought of in the original design considering how huge the opening is!

It was a pretty easy job if you can find the right material. I ended up with an inexpensive aluminum grill meant for ventilation that I cut the frame off of, trimmed to size and glued down with some RTV. The grill cost $3.13 at Lowe's. With the cowl reinstalled the job is invisible.

Total crap pictures, sorry...

I think I may have this porblem as during downpours or washing the car, I get a trickle of water dripping onto the passenger floor. Someone recommended I check out the airbox as the drain may be clogged. I can acess through the fuelpump cowling can't I? I was also told to stick my hand up towards the windscreen and there's like a hole at the bottom of the box or something?

[jawn101]

I think I may have this porblem as during downpours or washing the car, I get a trickle of water dripping onto the passenger floor. Someone recommended I check out the airbox as the drain may be clogged. I can acess through the fuelpump cowling can't I? I was also told to stick my hand up towards the windscreen and there's like a hole at the bottom of the box or something?

You can see the hole they were talking about in my photos, it's the large semi-trapezoidal cutout under the windshield that I put the mesh over. Unfortunately no, you can't access the inside of the airbox from the access panels - the best you can really do is to drop the blower fan and try to clean it out from inside. If the drain itself is clogged that's another whole story - some folks have had luck with a fishtape, drain snake, compressed air, or even cutting the drain pipe leading down from the airbox through the body. A really crap job - I was lucky and just had a few dry twigs in mine which is why I decided to install this before it got bad. But I helped Clint clean his out on 1768 and it was literally a compost heap inside. Packed solid with decayed black goo.

[SIMid]

You can see the hole they were talking about in my photos, it's the large semi-trapezoidal cutout under the windshield that I put the mesh over. Unfortunately no, you can't access the inside of the airbox from the access panels - the best you can really do is to drop the blower fan and try to clean it out from inside. If the drain itself is clogged that's another whole story - some folks have had luck with a fishtape, drain snake, compressed air, or even cutting the drain pipe leading down from the airbox through the body. A really crap job - I was lucky and just had a few dry twigs in mine which is why I decided to install this before it got bad. But I helped Clint clean his out on 1768 and it was literally a compost heap inside. Packed solid with decayed black goo.

Ah! Yes, I see the hole pointing towards the quarter panel. No way in getting access even from the front passenger wheel well?

Sounds like a fun job to do soon. :thumbdown:

[DeLorean03]

Here's where I am as of lastnight:

16762

My description per the FB photo description:

The Y-coolant pipe is completely installed.

The water return pipe is completely installed.

The O-ring seal underneath the idle pulley bracket is completely installed.

The water pump is completely installed - all 3 mounting holes tapped with a M8 tap to clean the threads.

All 3 bolts for the waterpump and all 4 bolts for the Y-coolant pipe were literally completely covered in anti-seize when they were re-installed.

Thermostat and thermostat housing is re-installed.

New brass bleeder valve behind the water return pipe has been installed along with some new hoses that run to that brass bleeder valve.

All the hoses to the waterpump are re-installed.

So next time, the intake manifold goes back on. Should be able to get the cold start valve re-installed, idle speed motor back in place, reattach all vacuum lines, re-crimp all ground wires that need it, re-anchor all electrical connections. re-install fuel mixture unit with fuel distributor back on, re-install idle microswitch, re-install throttle spool, connect all the fuel lines back in place, put air filter box back on, install the other side of the water return hose to the aluminum coolant pipe, hook the battery up, turn the key and smile hearing the DeLorean come back to life.

Lil' by lil', the engine is starting to take shape again (: !

[Dangermouse]

Put in some wire mesh under the windshield cowl to keep crap out of the airbox. It's pretty remarkable that this wasn't thought of in the original design considering how huge the opening is!

It was a pretty easy job if you can find the right material. I ended up with an inexpensive aluminum grill meant for ventilation that I cut the frame off of, trimmed to size and glued down with some RTV. The grill cost $3.13 at Lowe's. With the cowl reinstalled the job is invisible.

Total crap pictures, sorry...

That is an awesome idea. I wish I had though of it when I had mine opened. I'll put it on my to do list.

[jawn101]

That is an awesome idea. I wish I had though of it when I had mine opened. I'll put it on my to do list.

Wish I could take credit! :) But that screen I found (it was in the roofing section) was absolutely perfect. A piece of screen door mesh that Clint gave me warped too easily and didn't have enough surface area to bond well IMO.

But it is a great idea. The evap boxes fill with compost and that's just a bad situation for all concerned.

[Dangermouse]

I would even consider adding a layer if screen door AL mesh on top of the one you used to keep out even finer particles.

[jawn101]

I would even consider adding a layer if screen door AL mesh on top of the one you used to keep out even finer particles.

Well you want to strike a balance between keeping out debris and also keeping out air :) IMO this was a very good compromise

[Dangermouse]

True.

Maybe some experimentation is called for.

You know what would make a good one? A spare cut-down Rock Screen from the front of the car! You could nearly claim it was OEM.

[Rich]

Performed a routine coolant drain/refill service, then learned a new (for me) method to aid the coolant bleeding. Used my trusty cooling system pressure tester as a pump to lightly pressurize the system cold in order to push as much coolant as poss. from the header tank thru the system and up to the bleeder before restarting. Still with light pressure on, pushed the large return hose on the left of the engine downward with engine off to be sure it was full of coolant, too, during cold bleeding. There was very little air left when I hot-bled it later.

It was also an excuse to run a pressure-hold test while I was at it. All good.

(Stant cooling pressure test kit runs ~$90, great tool)

[eagle-co94]

Started tearing down 891. standing on the ground where the passenger seat once was is a weird feeling.

[Jack]

Compression test results:
Cranked engine three times...
1:170
2:170
3:165
4:170
5:170-175
6:170

[DMC5180]

Wish I could take credit! :) But that screen I found (it was in the roofing section) was absolutely perfect. A piece of screen door mesh that Clint gave me warped too easily and didn't have enough surface area to bond well IMO.

But it is a great idea. The evap boxes fill with compost and that's just a bad situation for all concerned.

Look familiar

16799 16800

[Kenny_Z]

I realized I probably don't want my bumper exposed to the elements too long so I took it off to store inside. I found this.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/vin4539.jpg

The funny thing is one of my original front speakers had a little orange sticker with 4539 on it as well. I thought it was a replacement speaker bought at some point in Red's life but it may have been factory original.

[vwdmc16]

that is the closest to actual number ive ever seen

[Kenny_Z]

Seriously? I thought most of them were correct.

[jawn101]

Seriously? I thought most of them were correct.

Not in our experience around here, they're off by way more than 5! :)

Pulled my fascia and muffler so it could go off to ceramic coating this week. Also sprayed down the bottom half of the engine with brake cleaner to try and track this pesky oil seep. One day I'll actually have a motor that doesn't do this, lol

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16801&d=1361748718

[DMC5180]

Seriously? I thought most of them were correct.

What is the number on the Frame Tag? It's located inside the Drivers side frame rail in front of the bumper cross member.

[Jonathan]

I realized I probably don't want my bumper exposed to the elements too long so I took it off to store inside. I found this.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/vin4539.jpg

The funny thing is one of my original front speakers had a little orange sticker with 4539 on it as well. I thought it was a replacement speaker bought at some point in Red's life but it may have been factory original.

Hey Kenny,

Are you going to do some work to your 101764 lower support bracket?

I have seen a few people on here with that metal strip on their project list, and I am one of them.

I got it off and realized it was in pretty bad shape. And only 1 of the 7 studs epoxy'ed into the fascia are intact. That's another portion of the job to get the new one installed.

16802

The giveaway on my car is you could see the 8 symmetrical holes on the rear fascia weren't all lined up anymore. I think when I took it apart, only 3 of the 7 studs were still attached at all (and 2 of those snapped getting it apart).

What is it that makes these things disintegrate on our cars? Just from all that heat off the muffler alone?

[Jack]

So what y'all think of those numbers?

[ramblinmike]

So what y'all think of those numbers?

They look good. You're fine.

[Kenny_Z]

What is the number on the Frame Tag? It's located inside the Drivers side frame rail in front of the bumper cross member.

I'll check tomorrow. A storm just rolled in. I hope this isn't going to be another set of days off where I get absolutely nothing done.

Yeah, I'm planning to pull it off to clean it up if possible or build another if it isn't. I think the heat just burns the metal's protection (if any) off and then lets the rust eat it away.

[mluder]

that is the closest to actual number ive ever seen
Really?

Mine matches exactly.


Cheers
Steven

[Tillsy]

Really?

Mine matches exactly.

I'd be worried about the history of your D mate - DeLoreans were not manufactured to that kind of standard :wink:

[Dangermouse]

I'd be worried about the history of your D mate - DeLoreans were not manufactured to that kind of standard :wink:

Surely 1 out of 9200 could accidentally match. :)

[jawn101]

Started cleaning the motor to try and figure out where it's seeping oil from. Tightened down the oil light sender. Does anyone know if there should be a bolt in this hole in the timing cover? It had some oil in it but I don't have any spare bolts that are the right size. I tried one from elsewhere on the timing cover but it didn't feel right - like it wasn't threading and I didn't want to force it. The hole is just below and to the right of the idler pulley bracket, you can see the clip that holds the oil light sender wire.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16830&d=1361841900

[pezzonovante88]

I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.

[jawn101]

I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.

You should be able to grab the bolt with some tweezers or something and turn it out, since it's hollow inside. You definitely need to call up a vendor (or a friendly owner with spares) and get the correct replacement. A hardware store won't have it. Torque on these should only be 8 lb/ft.

[jawn101]

You should be able to grab the bolt with some tweezers or something and turn it out, since it's hollow inside. You definitely need to call up a vendor (or a friendly owner with spares) and get the correct replacement. A hardware store won't have it. Torque on these should only be 8 lb/ft.

Too late to edit my post, but I should update the above to say that it depends which bolt you snapped what the torque should be. Check section D:02:01 part 10 in your shop manual for the torque spec for the particular size bolt you're dealing with. The smallest ones are ~8 ft/lb but if I'm reading your question above correctly and it's an M14 bolt then it's 11-14 ft/lb

[pezzonovante88]

Too late to edit my post, but I should update the above to say that it depends which bolt you snapped what the torque should be. Check section D:02:01 part 10 in your shop manual for the torque spec for the particular size bolt you're dealing with. The smallest ones are ~8 ft/lb but if I'm reading your question above correctly and it's an M14 bolt then it's 11-14 ft/lb

It's the smaller bolt that I snapped.

[pezzonovante88]

I got a new WUR/Control Pressure Regulator so today I went to install it. Everything went fine - I removed the old one and put in the new one. The last thing I had to do was tighten up one of the fuel line bolts that goes into the WUR. I over-tightened it and broke the head of the bolt off, leaving the threaded part stuck in the new WUR. This is what happens when novice DIY'ers tries to fiddle with mechanical parts.
I was pretty pissed off because I was going to reinstall the battery and start it up for the first time since November.
Anyway, how the hell do I fix this? Also, the bolt it one of those ones with a little hole under the head (hollow bolt?)- is that something I need to order specifically or can I find one at a hardware store?
How tight are those fuel line bolts supposed to be? I didn't want gas spewing out of them so I thought they should be really tight.

All sorted out now. Got someone at work to fix it. Ordered new bolts and washers.

[jawn101]

All sorted out now. Got someone at work to fix it. Ordered new bolts and washers.

Glad to hear it!

[DeLorean03]

Continued to re-assemble the engine from the VOD cleaning. Got to this point as of lastnight:

16904

The photo is aptly titled "Almost there...."

Just have to reattach the fuel lines, re-crimp one ground wire, put the alternator belt back on, lock the alternator back in place, hook up the battery, and be glad it's over (: ...

Then I move onto the headliners, driver's door trim, and sun visors!

[dmc3130]

Started cleaning the motor to try and figure out where it's seeping oil from. Tightened down the oil light sender. Does anyone know if there should be a bolt in this hole in the timing cover? It had some oil in it but I don't have any spare bolts that are the right size. I tried one from elsewhere on the timing cover but it didn't feel right - like it wasn't threading and I didn't want to force it. The hole is just below and to the right of the idler pulley bracket, you can see the clip that holds the oil light sender wire.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16830&d=1361841900


Did you ever find out if there is a bolt in that place?

[jawn101]

Did you ever find out if there is a bolt in that place?

Nope... do you have one there? :)

I'm considering taking a fingerful of Right Stuff and just going along the seams of the oil pan to crankcase, crankcase to block, and timing cover to block to see if that stems the mess. It won't be pretty for now, but I think I'm going to have to pull the motor again anyway and put better seals in all these places than we did last time. Could clean it up pretty easily then.

[eagle-co94]

Just checked my cars and they don't have bolts in those holes either. If the insides are wet I imagine it's a gasket failure.

[jawn101]

Just checked my cars and they don't have bolts in those holes either. If the insides are wet I imagine it's a gasket failure.

Figured as much, thanks....

[DMCflux]

Finished reassembling my rear suspension after cleaning/restoring. Replaced original Trailing arm bolts with improved TAB kit from DMCMW and new bushings as well.

BEFORE
16917

AFTER
16918

[Domi]

Nice job, congratulation ;)

[Jonathan]

Went over the fuse and relay area in the car to see how the connections looked.

I took out each fuse, inspected, and reinserted three times before leaving in place.

I also noticed one of the screws holding the relay socket tray to the main bracket was not in place. Likely not put back from a few seasons ago when I was reconnecting wires under the fan fail relay socket.

The screw that is missing is at the location of the cooling fan relay socket, #26 on the schematic. The screw on the other end at the low beam relay socket, #21 was in place. I replaced the missing screw with one I had and appearing to be a match. When I went to reinstall the relay into socket #26, it looks like the head of the screw is thicker/taller, and is likely touching the outside casing of the relay once it is fully inserted.

Is this a problem? Is there a potential grounded pathway issue here if I leave it as is? The top of the screw in socket #21 is close to touching the relay casing, but it looks like there is a bit of space in between still.

Also, when removing the 20 Amp fuses in the fan fail wiring upgrade, it looks like the wire on the right side which plugs into the right side female end of the socket, has the male spade connector end on the wire slightly oxidized. It wasn't rusted like you might see elsewhere on some fittings, but instead it had a bit of a shine to it and it was blackened. But not any kind of blackened that comes off on your finger if you touch it. It was more like the way stainless changes appearance when you heat it up or weld it. What's the meaning of this?! Any cause for concern there with that spade connector? It may have looked like this 4 years ago when I got it, I don't really recall inspecting it that closely.

[Ron]

If the relay seats fully, forget about the screw being close/touching.

The discoloration of the spade connector is probably due to heat...you might check to see if it still has enough tension to hold onto the relay terminal/blade, but SOP says to replace it.

[Kenny_Z]

I got into my VOD last night and found lots of clay. It's from living on a dirt road.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/engine04.jpg

And as bad as that looks I'm finding clean aluminum underneath. I still have to remove the y-tube to get better access but a shopvac and an extension tube is cleaning everything up well. I ran out of PBblaster when I soaked the bolts last night so I'm going to buy more tonight and soak them for a few days. I'm still waiting for some parts before I can remove the heads anyway.

[Jonathan]

If the relay seats fully, forget about the screw being close/touching.

The discoloration of the spade connector is probably due to heat...you might check to see if it still has enough tension to hold onto the relay terminal/blade, but SOP says to replace it.

Thanks Ron. I am quite confident the relay is all the way into the socket. I didn't think there would be a grounding issue, but was seeking some reassurance :)

Agreed on replacing the connector. Either crimp new ones on or pitch it and get a replacement.

One of these days my garage will be above 0 degrees Celsius again and I can get back to making some progress on my car... I should have bought a polar bear farm and not a DMC ;)

[Farrar]

Today I found that the two white/red wires behind the bulkhead connector had been quick-spliced together (argh!) and then quick-spliced to a single blue wire to the start inhibit relay. Something in this "repair" has gone awry and I intend to wire it back to stock specifications. Unfortunately, the wires were cut just behind the bulkhead connector, so this will be very tricky.

[jfirios]

Took my car to its first car show. The friday night show at the Bobs Big boy in North Hollywood CA. Was a great experience. The car and all the custom lighting and work was really well received. It is still great to see that surrounded by all these great classic cars the DeLorean still captures peoples attention and imagination. But then again, that is what the car is all about in the first place.
They have it there every friday night. Hope to bring it back earlier than I did last time and get a better spot to show off.

[Jack]

Stripped Fascia
169601696116962169631696416965

[Kenny_Z]

Very nice. What did you use to strip it?

I got two great tools today. 1batt4u's flywheel lock and a Craftsman impact wrench. That crankshaft nut didn't stand a chance. I settled in thinking I was going to be in for a fight and less than a second later it was on the ground. That Craftsman impact has 580ftlb rating and was on sale for 109.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/engine06.jpg

[Jack]

Very nice. What did you use to strip it?
I stripped the back fascia with SEM Urethane Stripper and the front with Aircraft Urethane Stripper.
DO NOT USE Aircraft Urethane Stripper, it puts a slight pattern in the urethane.
So I had to sand the front to remove the pattern and remaining primer.
Started with 60 grit to quickly remove primer in the corners.
Orbital + hand sanding mix 100 & 220 grit.
Hand sanding 400,800,2000.
I wet sanding with peanut oil at the 400-2000 stages.
1697616977

[eagle-co94]

You're not talking about the Aircraft Stripper that comes in a metal can with a blue label are you? That's some really serious stuff. I use it for stripping paint and clearcoat off of aluminum wheels. Got it on my skin once...and never again!

[Jack]

You're not talking about the Aircraft Stripper that comes in a metal can with a blue label are you? That's some really serious stuff. I use it for stripping paint and clearcoat off of aluminum wheels. Got it on my skin once...and never again!
No same brand though.
They "claim" to make a plastic safe stripper.
SEM didn't distort the urethane at all but the "urethane safe" aircraft one does distort the some finish of the urethane.

[Farrar]

Today, I made a little tool which should help me in my wiring harness repair this weekend.

[mluder]

Started with 60 grit to quickly remove primer in the corners.
Orbital + hand sanding mix 100 & 220 grit.
Hand sanding 400,800,2000.
I wet sanding with peanut oil at the 400-2000 stages.
1697616977

Did this restore the black bumper area so you don't have to paint it? Just curious because I need to refurb mine and would like to retain the original look.

What are your intentions for painting? Are you going to have it professionally sprayed?

Cheers
Steven

[John U]

Did some blending, and bought a new friend for 3462!

[jawn101]

Did some blending, and bought a new friend for 3462!

Nice 928!!!

Looked at it forlornly. Exhaust should be back this weekend, hopefully. Ordered my sub from DMC-CA.

[eagle-co94]

Picked up a windshield for it and paid taxes to the state on it...

[DMCMW Dave]

Did some blending, and bought a new friend for 3462!

These make DeLorean parts look like the bargain of the century. . . . :eek5:

[pezzonovante88]

Did some blending, and bought a new friend for 3462!

Nice. Congrats!

[Kenny_Z]

I tore the engine down to the block and took one of the heads to the machine shop. I'm going to take the second one in tomorrow when I get the exhaust manifold off. I've broken two chisels and used an entire can of pb blaster on those damned washers. Tomorrow I'm grinding them down and hoping the manifolds will come off.

[John U]

These make DeLorean parts look like the bargain of the century. . . . :eek5:

I know......I need ONE headlight lense....it literally costs as much as a brand new DMC windshield!!! :bawling:

[John U]

........more blending today

[Jack]

Did this restore the black bumper area so you don't have to paint it? Just curious because I need to refurb mine and would like to retain the original look.

What are your intentions for painting? Are you going to have it professionally sprayed?

Cheers
Steven

The peanut oil is only a temporary "restorer". It did seem like the urethane did absorb some of the oil though.
But I tested that by washing it with soap and water, back to washed out black it went.
I also tested Mother Back to Black, not that impressed. I mean if you in a hurry and want to touch up a bumper back to black is fine.
I ordered some Forever Black on amazon see if that actually dyes it back like it claims.

At this point I intend to leave the fascias completely flat black. I think it looks fine that way, don't get me wrong i like the stock look also. This was done mainly as a cost and maintenance reducer.

[mluder]

The peanut oil is only a temporary "restorer". It did seem like the urethane did absorb some of the oil though.
But I tested that by washing it with soap and water, back to washed out black it went.
I also tested Mother Back to Black, not that impressed. I mean if you in a hurry and want to touch up a bumper back to black is fine.
I ordered some Forever Black on amazon see if that actually dyes it back like it claims.

At this point I intend to leave the fascias completely flat black. I think it looks fine that way, don't get me wrong i like the stock look also. This was done mainly as a cost and maintenance reducer.

Thanks, Jack.

I am needing a repain on my fascias and I'm trying to decide if I can get the bumpers back to black or just break down and paint them.
Did you have the rest profeessionally re-sprayed? Out of curiousity what did it cost iof you don't mind my asking?

Cheers
Steve

[DeLorean03]

All done today. Started the car for the first time since Feb 8th.

17066

Took it off the wheel ramps and cleaned up the interior a tiny bit. Nice to know the engine is back together!

17067

[DavidProehl]

5 of us Nor Cal guys got our mufflers blasted and ceramic coated at a local shop. I installed mine today. Here is a before and after as well as it installed:

1710917110

Many thanks to Clint for running the mufflers to the shop and picking them up! Results are awesome!

[eagle-co94]

For the first time since I got the car I heard it run! I hooked up the new Yellow Top, checked the fluids (after putting about 2 gallons into the radiator) and cranked on it for a few minutes and it finally fired to life! It quickly came to an idle around 800rpms so that I could look things over. There was some oil or something that baked off of the driver's side manifold and there wasn't a single drip after letting it run for about 10 minutes. Needless to say I'm happy! The brakes were quite soft so I'll take a look at that next to see if a fill and or flush is all that's needed (hopefully). Based on the sticker on the windshield it's been sitting since about August.

[Cory W]

I changed my alternator/water pump belt, put the battery and about 5 gallons of fuel in, and fired it up for the first time in 2013. First drive followed as soon as the fans turned on by themselves. Fired up quickly, and ran like it was only parked yesterday.

[pezzonovante88]

I changed my alternator/water pump belt, put the battery and about 5 gallons of fuel in, and fired it up for the first time in 2013. First drive followed as soon as the fans turned on by themselves. Fired up quickly, and ran like it was only parked yesterday.

I'm planning on reinstalling the battery and WUR tomorrow and starting it for the first time since Fall, as well. I hope mine starts up easily like yours did!
Also, any idea how much torque is required for the fuel lines that hook up to the WUR?

[Cory W]

Also, any idea how much torque is required for the fuel lines that hook up to the WUR?

From the book (D:02:01):
M8: 7-9 lb-ft
M10: 9-11 lb-ft
M12: 14-17 lb-ft

Those are M8 and M10, aren't they? I haven't touched mine in a few years.

The one thing you don't want to do is overtorque and break a bolt. ;) OTOH, you don't want to give your engine a fuel shower either. Torque them down, test run, check for any leaks, and give a small twist if there's any sign.

[pezzonovante88]

From the book (D:02:01):
M8: 7-9 lb-ft
M10: 9-11 lb-ft
M12: 14-17 lb-ft

Those are M8 and M10, aren't they? I haven't touched mine in a few years.

The one thing you don't want to do is overtorque and break a bolt. ;) OTOH, you don't want to give your engine a fuel shower either. Torque them down, test run, check for any leaks, and give a small twist if there's any sign.

Cool. And, yeah, I already broke the small one! Lol. This time I've got a torque wrench.

[vwdmc16]

Got the batch of ceramic coated muffler back. had five done.


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/20130309_185251_zps6af987c0.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/20130309_174043_zps8efa7008.jpg

[jawn101]

Got the batch of ceramic coated muffler back. had five done.


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/20130309_185251_zps6af987c0.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/20130309_174043_zps8efa7008.jpg


5 of us Nor Cal guys got our mufflers blasted and ceramic coated at a local shop. I installed mine today. Here is a before and after as well as it installed:

1710917110

Many thanks to Clint for running the mufflers to the shop and picking them up! Results are awesome!

Oh man, these look awesome. I can't wait to get mine installed. The color came out really great! I'm glad that place worked out.

[Kenny_Z]

Just did a little bit of painting. I'm not going to put the engine back together ugly.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/engine16.jpg

[LordFly]

Today I put a deposit down on my DeLorean :yesss:

[Silverbullet]

today i put a deposit down on my delorean :yesss:

sweet!

[John U]

Today I put a deposit down on my DeLorean :yesss:

Awesome!
Where is it coming from?

[Ron]

Today I put a deposit down on my DeLorean :yesss::thumbup2:

[LordFly]

Awesome!
Where is it coming from?

Alliston, ON - Only 3 hours away from me! I was all prepared to make a 1500 mile trek into the US somewhere, then this dropped into my lap :)

[Patrick C]

I got 1880 started up and drove her for the first time in 2013. Did a quick regraining and some minor projects before she gets trailered to Cincinnati this week for the St. Patrick's Day Parade.

[pezzonovante88]

I installed the new WUR and battery on 5875 today. Started her up for the first time since November with no problems. I didn't drive it yet, though. Maybe I'll do that next weekend depending on weather.

[Tillsy]

It has been a few months since I last updated - have been working on my D for so many hours a night that I've only had a chance to post a few updates on Facebook here and there. So here's to some catching up...

Firstly, ripped out the radiator assembly. Replaced the brass/plastic radiator with DMCH (via MidWest) aluminium (or aluminum to US folk) puppy. Cleaned up the shroud and then replaced the huge, heavy, NOISY, and current sucking fans with NorthWest's insanely quiet, slimline, high airflow yet low current puppies.

In the process I discovered one of my old fans had dislodged its propeller and was no longer spinning - which would explain why in the month prior I had noticed my fans ran for 2-3 times longer than usual to cool down (I presumed it was the hotter weather, but turned out one of the fans was spinning freely).

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16805&d=1361785745

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16807&d=1361785869

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16806&d=1361785834

[mluder]

4456 Overheated on me the other day in a short driving condition and the fans never seemed to kick on. She was due for an oil change and I noticed the coolant was on the low side so today I did the oil change today and topped off the coolant. My son and I took her out for a shakedown and things seemed better. She warmed up rather quickly but the fans kicked on this time - Still worrisome because today was a much cooler day than yesterday. I'll drive her to work tomorrow for another test run. I made need to bleed the cooling system.

Cheers
Steve

[Tillsy]

Removed every coolant hose and pipe. Cleaned and grained all the pipes, very stoked with how they came up. Most importantly I replaced all the heavily swollen and deteriorating rubber hoses with silicone. Took the opportunity to fit a new otterstat as well, nothing wrong with the old one but of course it is old. Refitted everything back in place.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16808&d=1361785901

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16811&d=1361786034

[John U]

It has been a few months since I last updated - have been working on my D for so many hours a night that I've only had a chance to post a few updates on Facebook here and there. So here's to some catching up...

Firstly, ripped out the radiator assembly. Replaced the brass/plastic radiator with DMCH (via MidWest) aluminium (or aluminum to US folk) puppy. Cleaned up the shroud and then replaced the huge, heavy, NOISY, and current sucking fans with NorthWest's insanely quiet, slimline, high airflow yet low current puppies.

In the process I discovered one of my old fans had dislodged its propeller and was no longer spinning - which would explain why in the month prior I had noticed my fans ran for 2-3 times longer than usual to cool down (I presumed it was the hotter weather, but turned out one of the fans was spinning freely).

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16805&d=1361785745



Wow Tillsy....watching this made me cringe....get rid of those bricks and get some proper ramps! :nervous:

[eagle-co94]

Wow Tillsy....watching this made me cringe....get rid of those bricks and get some proper ramps! :nervous:

Why? Those flat Concrete pavers look extremely solid. It's not like he's using cinder blocks sideways.

[John U]

Why? Those flat Concrete pavers look extremely solid. It's not like he's using cinder blocks sideways.

Just looks unsafe to me...I've heard of too many cars falling off cinder blocks, or hydraulic jacks failing....$100 for a pair of ramps is a small price to pay

[Farrar]

Those aren't cinder blocks.

[John U]

Those aren't cinder blocks.

yes I know....they are bricks

forget I even said anything....carry on :mallet:


17190

[Kenny_Z]

Just looks unsafe to me...I've heard of too many cars falling off cinder blocks, or hydraulic jacks failing....$100 for a pair of ramps is a small price to pay

I've used both ramps and bricks. I trust a good solid paving stone more than ramps. As long as you block the wheels she's not going to be rolling anywhere. I have to admit though, my father took a set of those cheap metal ramps and welded so much steel support to them that I'd trust them even after you dropped a semi on them. I hated moving those things though, they weighed nearly 50 lbs each.

Since it's raining outside I can't do much. I did go work on those two weird spots where someone sanded the grain out. I went from 120, 80, to a blending pad and I think it helped. I'd get a pic but it went from a drizzle to a downpour. Last night I sprayed some SEM trim black on my side moldings and I think they turned out great. I can't wait for it to dry up so I can put them back on the car.

[nullset]

I finally got 2930 going again! Yay!

The last time I took her out (the dragoncon parade) the cooling fans decided not to turn on. As the temp gauge doesn't work, and I was stuck, I just had to limp home as best as I could.

I started working on it about 2 weeks ago. It wouldn't start. My worst fear was that it'd overheated and the head was shot, so I pulled the intake and did a compression test. The results: PASS! It wasn't great, but it was enough that she should start.

I did notice that the plugs were badly fouled. I re-set the mixture and reassembled everything, voila! She started right up.

I now need to hook up the dwell meter to set the mixture correctly, change the oil, and still fix the *(&@#^ ATF leak.

--buddy

[Tillsy]

Wow Tillsy....watching this made me cringe....get rid of those bricks and get some proper ramps! :nervous:

I have four jack stands, but given I had her up for an entire month I didn't want to use those.

You are right I do need to get some ramps - those pavers were a last second decision to get the job underway. They are driveway rated though not normal path ones, doesn't make it the smartest of ideas though :)

[Tillsy]

Stripped down to my VOD. Removed the old water pump and, to my surprise, the new ones needs a lot of assembly so there went a night recycling various bits and pieces from the old one. Installed the new silicone hosing for this area too, including the heater feed, BUT two snapped bolts from the old pump made going any further a disaster.

Attempts to get those snapped bolts out were an utter disaster leaving no choice but to abort. As I was working to a tight schedule (wanted my DeLorean back together again for a BTTF drive-in that was coming up) I was convinced that was now over... (pump is simply being held in place by the hoses in bottom shot)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17069&d=1362736027

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17072&d=1362736280

[krs09]

Stripped down to my VOD. Removed the old water pump and, to my surprise, the new ones needs a lot of assembly so there went a night recycling various bits and pieces from the old one. Installed the new silicone hosing for this area too, including the heater feed, BUT two snapped bolts from the old pump made going any further a disaster.

Attempts to get those snapped bolts out were an utter disaster leaving no choice but to abort. As I was working to a tight schedule (wanted my DeLorean back together again for a BTTF drive-in that was coming up) I was convinced that was now over... (pump is simply being held in place by the hoses in bottom shot)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17069&d=1362736027

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17072&d=1362736280

Sorry to hear about the broken bolts. I just had to drill 2 bolts out that held in the pump (only the 1 at the bottom came out), if the bolts broke off and are flush dont waste any time and just drill them out. I had to remove the bumper support bracket to have a flush shot. I used time-serts and they worked great and i never have to worry about them again (heli coils are a temp fix usually). I just replaced my hoses and now kinda wish i got silicone, but i bet they are prob out of my very low price range. They do look great!!

[Farrar]

Didn't touch the car, but a box of parts from British Wiring showed up in the mail today. :)

[Tillsy]

Sorry to hear about the broken bolts. I just had to drill 2 bolts out that held in the pump (only the 1 at the bottom came out), if the bolts broke off and are flush dont waste any time and just drill them out. I had to remove the bumper support bracket to have a flush shot. I used time-serts and they worked great and i never have to worry about them again (heli coils are a temp fix usually). I just replaced my hoses and now kinda wish i got silicone, but i bet they are prob out of my very low price range. They do look great!!

Cheers mate - I fumed on it for a couple of nights and continued with other aspects of the work. I then decided to take a punt and remove the rear, drill them out, put the rear back on, and hope it went well and didn't set me back too much more. One ended up (relectantly) coming out with vicegrips once decent access was obtained, the other we tried VERY carefully using a left threaded drillbit but SNAP -now had a broken bolt with an even tougher metal stuck in the middle of it. Caused many hours of stress knowing we made a bad situation worse, but finally fixed the disaster! Next time I won't even bother going the extraction path!

[jawn101]

Installed my freshly ceramic coated muffler and reinstalled the rear impact absorber, fascia and alternator. Charged up the battery and took the first spin in 2 weeks. The exhaust seals better than ever with the new band clamp and the car is running great. Also got my JL XD300 amp in the mail, so tomorrow's project is to get that DMC CA sub installed.

Some pics of the muffler:

Before

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17208&d=1363057026

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17211&d=1363057038

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17210&d=1363057034

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17209&d=1363057030

And after
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17212&d=1363057043

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17213&d=1363057048

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17214&d=1363057052

Well worth the money if you ask me!

[Tillsy]

To help get my mind off the disaster with my snapped water pump bolts I spent several nights moving onto the next tasks - cleaning the VOD, new stainless fuel lines (coated in a gorgeous transparent red), new silicone spark plug leads, spark plugs, injectors, rotor, distributor, Dave's solid state fan control and fan fail relays, replaced the asbestos heat shield with the new stainless one, etc…

This ended up being a great approach as during this time I calmed down about the snapped bolts and simply made the decision I next needed to remove the back of my D to get access to drill the buggers out...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17074&d=1362736330

[Domi]

Those stainless fuel lines looks really nice!
Where did you bought them?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Take your time drilling out those bolts. I had one break and drilled it out without removing the back end. With the back end removed it should help your back and go quicker. Mine took about 6 hours to drill and clean out the treads.

[jawn101]

Noticed my new muffler was hanging a little crooked, so I loosened up the clamp and brackets and adjusted it.

Started installing my subwoofer. Was supposed to be easy - I pre-ran all the wires when I did the stereo months ago. It was not to be. The amp didn't fit where I planned it to go, so the wires had to be re-routed. Which required the whole interior to come back out. Then I realized the amp install kit I bought months ago has ring terminals that are too small to fit my battery cut-off switch and an inline fuse that's rated much higher than my amp calls for. Got discouraged and gave up for the night. Back to the car audio shop tomorrow.

[Tillsy]

My wife and kids let me start early this night and, with the help of a mate, spent until 2am removing the back end and removing the snapped bolts. One of them finally gave with the help of the extra access combined and vicegrips, but the other was a nightmare that turned into an even bigger nightmare at one point that took a few hours to sort. End result was we finally got both bolts out and then reinstalled the rear end.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17073&d=1362736330
(got to see my frame is only four ahead of my VIN)

[DMCflux]

Cleaned, regrained and polished my car. It had not been detailed in over 10yrs
Top (before)
Bottom (after)

[Tillsy]

Cleaned, regrained and polished my car. It had not been detailed in over 10yrs
Top (before)
Bottom (after)
WOW - the difference is night and day, very impressive :)

[DMCflux]

WOW - the difference is night and day, very impressive :)

Thanks Chris!

[Tillsy]

After another round of 2:30am finishes I finally got the pump secure and hooked up, refitted intake, fuel mixture unit, hooked up all the new stainless braided hoses to the distributor, throttle remounted, cold start valve reinstalled, and reconnected a crapload of stuff back up.

Got some desperately needed sleep and then tackled the pipe of agony first thing the next morning - thankfully it did not live up to its name for me, got it in third time no worries!

Made some changes to the air induction system during reassembly. I noticed the air inlet box inside the rear right pontoon did not align properly with the elbow that feeds it into the engine bay. No amount of force would correct that so I simply eliminated the elbow and put the feed directly onto the inlet box (as you can see in the montage below it now gets 100% of the flow). I then removed the entire heating splitoff crap and replaced it with a K&N direct feed, plus upgraded to a K&N filter.

And for some "modernisation" I used the stainless sill lettering that I originally purchased for the doors (but didn't use due to instead installing backlit lettering) to replace the sticker on the air filter assembly. Very rapt with how that came up!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17185&d=1362974073

[DMCflux]

Finished cleaning frame w/ por15 and rustoleum grey

[jawn101]

Got my subwoofer working, routed all the cables cleanly and reinstalled the whole interior, save for the passenger seat. Leaving that out until I'm done calibrating the amp so I have a way to sit facing the parcel shelf :)

[Tillsy]

Got my subwoofer working

What was the problem in the end?

[Tillsy]

Mission accomplished!

A few teething issues would be an understatement - took a whopping 20 or so minutes to get her to start (she either wouldn't start or would run a measly 1-1.5 seconds). Finally got her started but she ran like utter crap, very much like BTTF3 so I was expecting something to blow out :) I knew I had labelled, checked, double-checked, triple-checked, and quadruple-checked everything so was entirely confident I had it all connected right - therefore took a punt and gave her more gas. At 1000rpm she banged around like absolute crap, at 2000rpm she was not happy but better, and at 3000rpm she seemed to purr nicely. Ran her at 3000rpm for about a minute and she must have coughed out whatever she was unhappy about as she has been running perfect ever since.

Got an early night sleep and, after a BIG cleanup of #6679 and my garage the next day, I made it to BTTF at our local drive-in :)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17186&d=1362974232

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17244&d=1363226487

[jawn101]

What was the problem in the end?

Ummmm..... user error. I had adjusted the input sensitivity to zero rather than maximum. :) :bang:

[DavidProehl]

Ummmm..... user error. I had adjusted the input sensitivity to zero rather than maximum. :) :bang:

Glad it is working! Can't wait to hear it!

[Dangermouse]

Cleaned, regrained and polished my car. It had not been detailed in over 10yrs
Top (before)
Bottom (after)

Looks fantastic.

When you say "regrained" do you mean with a flapper wheel?

[DMCflux]

Looks fantastic.

When you say "regrained" do you mean with a flapper wheel?

Thanks! No, I did it by hand with 3m pad

[DeLorean03]

Wow, Tillsy. That looks amazing!

As for me, what did I do? I brought it home from Ken's after 3 months of hibernation (: ....

17317

[pezzonovante88]

I just took 5875 out for its first drive of the year, just over to the gas station. Short and sweet. After the WUR replacement, it would appear that my "boggy" acceleration has been resolved.

[jawn101]

Calibrated the new sub and amp and reassembled the whole car. Everything looking and working great! Tech day in Elk Grove tomorrow and looking forward to a much more musical drive.

[dmc3130]

Calibrated the new sub and amp and reassembled the whole car. Everything looking and working great! Tech day in Elk Grove tomorrow and looking forward to a much more musical drive.

Where did you end up putting the amp?:confused:

[dmc3130]

Still putting back together my VOD project.......Should be back and running soon.......:wiggle:

[Farrar]

Today, I started on the starting circuit repair. First, in order to gain as much slack in the harness as possible, I pushed as many of the bulkhead connectors as I could through the mounting plate. The black connector would not push through because it was melted and therefore misshapen at some point in the past, and the blue one would not push through because it hits the fiberglass body at the top of its mounting hole. (It looks like the mounting plate may have to be tweaked a bit, if possible, to fix this.)

I had to unwrap the harness a bit to gain access to the white/red wires.

17356

Because of the blue and black connectors being fixed in place, I could not get my fingers on some of the others, but I did manage to push the "problem connector" through. Not only did it have its white/red wires cut off very close to it and a blue wire quick-spliced in their stead, it looks as if the connector itself was subject to overheating at some point in the past.

17355

Both of the red/white wires are properly connected to the 3mm pin, and the wires themselves look fine where they were cut. This makes me wonder why they were cut to begin with. I traced them to their ends -- one ends at the Hot Start Relay socket, and the other has been cut off in lieu of the quick-spliced blue wire. The blue wire ends where this other red/white wire would have gone -- the Start Inhibit Relay. The only difference between this hack-job and the stock wiring is that it rendered the Hot Start Relay socket useless.

The repair should be easy to do, now that I have the harness unwrapped. First, remove the two white/red wires from the harness and remove the pins from the bulkhead terminal and relay sockets. Then, measure the old red/white wires for length. Using those measurements, make replacement white/red wires with 3mm pin at one end and tabbed female spade terminals at the other to push into the relay sockets. All of these I ordered from BritishWiring.com.

For the life of me I can't figure why those two white/red wires were cut in the first place. To me they seem to be in fine condition from beginning to end.

[Bitsyncmaster]

For the life of me I can't figure why those two white/red wires were cut in the first place. To me they seem to be in fine condition from beginning to end.

I have tested bad connections on a few crimped pins that looked perfectly good.

[Farrar]

Today, I removed the damaged white/red wires from the starting circuit and replaced them.

The two wires have the same 3mm crimp terminal at the bulkhead:
17409

One of the wires goes into the Hot Start Relay socket:
1741017411

The other wire goes into the Start Inhibit Relay socket:
1741217413

I snaked the new white/red wire into the existing harness to make sure everything was the right length and would wrap up like stock when I am finished. The shape of the harness is held together by wire zip-ties as a temporary measure:
17414

Finally, here's the new pin in amongst the old ones, which I will sand and spray clean before plugging back in:
17415

About one hour's work.

[Lenny]

Took the delorean for a drive and the clutch stared dieing. The free play in the pedal got longer and longer. I had to put the clutch all the way to the floor. Then even that wouldn't work. I limped home and got it in the garage. I'm going to look at it tomorrow.

The last car with a hydralic clutch I had was many moons ago. My question is back then brake fluid and clutch fluid were the same thing, is it still?

[jawn101]

Took the delorean for a drive and the clutch stared dieing. The free play in the pedal got longer and longer. I had to put the clutch all the way to the floor. Then even that wouldn't work. I limped home and got it in the garage. I'm going to look at it tomorrow.

The last car with a hydralic clutch I had was many moons ago. My question is back then brake fluid and clutch fluid were the same thing, is it still?

Yep, same thing - see here for details http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6558-Castrol-GTLMA

But look out - if the fluid is gone it must have gone somewhere, and it will eat your frame, so be sure to clean up any mess carefully!

[marcel]

At -15 and with a foot of snow on the ground, all i did today was take the cover off to check that the car is still there. Storage insurance comes off at the end of May. Most of the snow should be gone by then.

[Tillsy]

After my massive overhaul over the past month in readiness for a long distance trip across Australia for the DMC MidWest tech day in Sydney, I've been taking her out on a few shakedowns. Her first few went well, including what I thought was a hard long slog.

However, this past weekend I took her away for a trip and (aside from slamming into a kangaroo) that revealed a few minor issues. Firstly every coolant hose began to ever so slightly leak, so have re-tightened the bejesus out of them all. Steering was getting a little loose, tightened that up. Engine cover latch is not quite aligned right after my rear-end disassembly so is banging around a little - tackling that tomorrow night.

Have also reflushed and bled the coolant, there was still a little of the old stuff in the engine itself despite replacing the rest of the entire system so wanted to dilute that down a bit.

Plus have finally started work overhauling the lighting in my engine bay. Removed the old heavily melted unit, drilled out an equivalent spot on the other side, and installed two new units. Have also stuck a large array of SMDs inside each to eliminate the bloody hot bulbs.

Next up some wiring, realignment of the latch, some reassembly, one more shakedown, and a massive clean (she's absolutely filthy from the weekend holiday).

[Tillsy]

Plus have finally started work overhauling the lighting in my engine bay. Removed the old heavily melted unit, drilled out an equivalent spot on the other side, and installed two new units. Have also stuck a large array of SMDs inside each to eliminate the bloody hot bulbs.

Next up some wiring, realignment of the latch, some reassembly, one more shakedown, and a massive clean (she's absolutely filthy from the weekend holiday).

All the above now complete except for the cleaning. Comparison below doesn't do justice as the (now two) lights are pretty washed out by the camera flash.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17512&d=1363695056

[DavidProehl]

Looks awesome Tillsy!

Replaced the front bearings today. Brought them into a local shop to be pressed, then I got them back on the car. One fell apart about a month and a half ago when Clint, Jon and I were refreshing my brake system. At the time Clint was able to patch the old bearing back together enough to work, but it was making odd sounds so I went ahead and replaced both the fronts. Now I have a little more piece of mind knowing they are new.

This seemed like an intimidating job, but turned out to be super easy. For once I agree with Jon on job complexity!

[jawn101]

For once I agree with Jon on job complexity!

Haaaahahahahahahaha

Glad you got them fixed :) Is the noise gone?

[AussieDMC]

I put new cooling fans in my car last night from Toby and Misty at Delorean Parts Northwest.
A great product. Way quieter than the old fans. Copped a face full of dirt when I pulled the shroud
out.

[DavidProehl]

Haaaahahahahahahaha

Glad you got them fixed :) Is the noise gone?

Seems to be! I only did a short test drive, a few miles, and didn't hear the scratching sound anymore. I think that is a good sign.

[DrJeff]

This has been a long time coming (as have a few of my concurrent projects now) but I finally got the installation of the Dimmable LED instrument illumination done. I love the LED lights in the dash (the slightly blue-ish white ones give a more modern look), however I really prefer to have the dash lights dimmable if I'm out driving around at night. So I fitted a PWM (pulse width modulation) unit [sounds fancier than it is] in place of the rheostat.

Here's a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpU-RoBB7zo. The beeping is the GM Chimer unit in replacement for the Dying Goat Buzzer (but that's another story).

The most difficult part was that the PWM unit needed a dedicated circuit to the illumination bulbs, no problem on the +12v wire (red-white wire coming from the rheostat), however the D's dash illumination bulbs share their ground connection with other instruments. So I fitted a dedicated ground-return wire from each of the illumination bulbs and bypassed the stock ground connections. I got it done in such a way that it can be returned to stock.

17534

[sdg3205]

Took some Craig's in for service.

Fun time: find the Craig's in the picture and win 10 internets!

17536

[Ron]

This has been a long time coming (as have a few of my concurrent projects now) but I finally got the installation of the Dimmable LED instrument illumination done.

:thumbup2:

(Copied to the Custom DeLorean/Mod (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6589-Completed-installation-of-the-Dimmable-LED-instrument-panel-illumination)s)

[mluder]

Took some Craig's in for service.



Did you find someone who can do full rehab - Belts and all?

Cheers
Steve

[Chris3991]

Replaced the failing original struts with replacement struts from www.delorean.com.
However, when the new struts were fully extended, the engine compartment cover could not be opened far enough for the brace to be latched into place. The grab hook on the engine cover bumped into the louvre cover and the brace inside the engine compartment still needed to travel 1/4 inch to reach the lock position indentation. So I closed and latched the engine compartment cover.
I grabbed the original struts and held them in the fully extended position next to the replacement struts that are still on the vehicle. The original struts are in fact about an inch longer than the replacements.
I called out to DMC California and spoke with a guy named Todd. He didn't seem to have any ideas other than to bend the brace as to, in effect, shorten the distance the brace would have to travel, thus allowing it to reach the lock position. I'm not comfortable doing this quite yet.

Any thoughts on a better solution or perhaps obtaining the correct parts?

Cheers

[refugeefromcalif]

My D was taken from me today.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17545&d=1363817337

Funny, Finance companies Expect you to make ALL the payments on a loan.?.?

(J/K).


The closest I'll ever see to my car flying.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17546&d=1363817430


It's on the way to DMCFL for a bit of work, and a few Upgrades.

George

EDIT: Don't know How I'll survive without it for a couple weeks...

[dmc3130]

Took some Craig's in for service.

Fun time: find the Craig's in the picture and win 10 internets!

17536

Are you a sound enginer?????

[Iznodmad]

17555Had this object removed from my passenger rear tire today. Thank goodness my tire could be repaired, the hole it made was quite close to the edge of the tread.

[sdg3205]

Did you find someone who can do full rehab - Belts and all?

Cheers
Steve

Steve, this guy tests functions and installs an aux input. He's decent. I think he does what he can with what he's got.

[sdg3205]

Are you a sound enginer?????

Yes I am! Some of the neve gear in those racks are older than the Craig units!

[mluder]

Steve, this guy tests functions and installs an aux input. He's decent. I think he does what he can with what he's got.

What's he charge to install the aux input? Do you have a schematic for it? That's really all I need - the ability to connect my iPhone would negate the need for the cassette functionality.
I thought about trying to find someone local to do it but not sure what I should pay and even how it would be done.

BTW - the restoration is looking great.

Cheers
Steve

[Jonathan]

17555Had this object removed from my passenger rear tire today. Thank goodness my tire could be repaired, the hole it made was quite close to the edge of the tread.

Man, good thing it was only a dime that got stuck in your tire. Imagine how big the hole would have been if it had of been a quarter?

[eagle-co94]

That is a quarter... having said that it looks like the object is some kind of retaining pin by looking at that notch that probably used to be a hole.

[Jonathan]

That is a quarter...

Ok.... yea.... my joke didn't even come close to working. D'oh!! Time to go back to the fixing cars stuff and leave the funny stuff for the comedians.

[Kenny_Z]

I finally got these three pieces together to get a photo.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/engine28.jpg

Then I found out my timing light dropped dead when I went to time the Mustang. I've got to buy a new one before I get the heads back for the D. The machinist has been having as much fun as I was with them. He said he soaked the driver's side head over the weekend, applied heat to the protruding studs, and then snapped every one of them off. I'm not surprised. This is going to be one expensive repair bill.

[LordFly]

Today I bought my DeLorean! :D

Here she is in her new home.

17588