Weird noise, climate cluster

[thirdmanj]

So I've got this strange noise coming from behind my climate control panel. It almost sounds like air hiss of sorts. I'm wondering if it isn't somehow connected to the dampers that direct airflow. My A/C checks out, but it never seems to blow strong out of the top vents. Anyone know what this might be?

[Farrar]

Vacuum leak -- either the seal in the mode switch itself is leaking, or you've got a loose vacuum line behind it.

Farrar

[thirdmanj]

Hmmm, now all I gotta do is track it down I guess. You're saying the switch itself could be it?

[Farrar]

Yes, there's a rubber seal inside which does go bad over time.

Farrar

[sdg3205]

Or, check to see the entire "plug" of hoses that fit on the nipples on the switch is seated properly. It can come loose.

[thirdmanj]

Sweet! Thanks guys, I'll go check it out after I get off work tonight. I just hope it's an easy fix, i.e. all I have to do is remove the panel. :wrenchin:

[Farrar]

I had to remove the console for good access to the back of the switch. Your technique may be superior... I look forward to seeing the results. :)

Farrar

[Rich]

The lack of flow in some modes plus the hissing both indicate a worn mode switch seal. You can get it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself if you're handy.

Most of the DMC vendors have a solution. Call your favorite after you get your switch out. The small screenshot here shows what you'll be dealing with. Try not to pull all of the A/C vacuum door hoses off the back of the mode switch without keeping track of them. Try not to pull them off at all if you can manage it.
7147
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/hardware.html

[ccurzio]

Sweet! Thanks guys, I'll go check it out after I get off work tonight. I just hope it's an easy fix, i.e. all I have to do is remove the panel. :wrenchin:

This was the first fix I had to do on my DeLorean and unfortunately it's not that simple.

To get to the switch you're going to have to either work 90% by touch by reaching up through underneath the passenger footwell, or you'll have to outright remove the center console.

This is a common problem on DeLoreans and the upside is, once you've got the switch out it's a straightforward process to replace/rebuild the failed parts. It's getting the switch out and reinstalling it that's the painful process.

Or you could get lucky and find that pushing the tubes onto the switch will fix it. Seems yours isn't completely shot since you can still (somewhat) change modes. But I'd go ahead and rebuild it, since it could be an indication that it's failing. Putting the new part in there will at least give you the peace of mind that it'll last.

[David T]

Rotate the mode switch. If the hissing noise changes it is the seal inside the switch. Sometimes all it needs is a little lubrication but you should plan on replacing the rubber labyrinth seal anyway. Very common. Label everything well and take pictures and notes so you don;t mess up any connections. Later cars had a plug that all of the hoses connected to so you don't have to disconnect and reconnect each hose. Don't mess up the wiring, the wires have to go back where they are.
David Teitelbaum

[thirdmanj]

It's very rare that I find a problem in this car and the fix is easy, but, I'm proud to say this is one of those times....

A while back 1258 was broken into and my radio was jacked. The hissing started shortly there after. Turns out what had happened was the little distributor lookin thing that plugs into the switch had come disconnected. That was the hissing, I simply matched up the holes, plugged it back in and tah dah! Shes great! I also, after chatting with Josh at DPI, believe that this tiny vac leak could account for my mild stuttering at freeway speeds. Heh hah! I really hope that be the case. Anyways, thanks again so much for all the help! As always this forum comes through quick with great answers and advice! :)

[Delorean Industries]

It's very rare that I find a problem in this car and the fix is easy, but, I'm proud to say this is one of those times....

A while back 1258 was broken into and my radio was jacked. The hissing started shortly there after. Turns out what had happened was the little distributor lookin thing that plugs into the switch had come disconnected. That was the hissing, I simply matched up the holes, plugged it back in and tah dah! Shes great! I also, after chatting with Josh at DPI, believe that this tiny vac leak could account for my mild stuttering at freeway speeds. Heh hah! I really hope that be the case. Anyways, thanks again so much for all the help! As always this forum comes through quick with great answers and advice! :)

Glad we could help before parts were thrown at the situation. Always better to talk through the variables before installing parts!

[thirdmanj]

Well, I have I new symptom. For about as long as I can remember back, when driving at freeway speeds, 1258 would exhibit a minor stutter when given a heavy stomp on the throttle. When I mean minor, I mean it's doubtful anyone but the driver would pick up on it. So there's that.

Now, after eliminating the vacuum leak comming from the climate control selector switch, the stutter is now more noticeable. This time at slower speeds, e.g. at a light and trying to take off quickly. I wouldn't put it in bucking category just yet, but like I said, now it's noticeable at lower speeds. Happens about 2700-3000rpm range and smooths out. Idle seems good. I've read the threads and bucking. I'm gonna give the battery a good charge with my battery charger, and check voltage at the pump.... Anymore ideas?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Check the hoses on the vacuum advance solenoid. They must be on the correct nipples. One vents. So if your have them on wrong, your advance would not drop when you punch the throttle.

[Delorean Industries]

Definitely check the vacuum routing prior to assuming anything. As always James feel free to call any time for tech support 330 573 4129.

[sdg3205]

I exhausted everything with this issue (which worsened over time to the point where after about an hour the car would die). Turned out the coil was dying a slow death.

I did everything possible with the fuel system, checked that off and moved on to the ignition. Turned out as the coil heated up, the symptoms got worse.

Not saying yours is the coil, but sounds like you have the same bizarre behavior like I did where 2 - 3k rpms was rough but above 3k rpm was smooth.

[thirdmanj]

Just got done pumping up the charge on the battery (12.44). Ran her and checked the pump voltage (11.5) the pump is just over 2 years old. I will check the vacuum hoses as recommended (engine bay right?). I'm off to go research in the shop manual... Josh I'll call as a last resort, but i don't think it's an emergency for now

-sdg, I thoroughly read up on your issue on the threads before posting, as your symptoms were very similar to mine. Im glad you got yours cleared up. Coil eh? I haven't tested it yet but I'm fairly certain my coil is good. It's Nology installed by DMCFL on a
Stage II about 2 years ago... But we'll see. Given recent events I'm leaning the vacuum route.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The distributor hose goes to the nipple on the outside edge of the solenoid. The center nipple goes to the hose in the valley.

[thirdmanj]

What about those charcoal vapor canisters? How long is their lifespan?

[Bitsyncmaster]

What about those charcoal vapor canisters? How long is their lifespan?

I think they can last forever. But there is a cap on it that is probably rotted if you have not replaced it.

[sdg3205]

I think they can last forever. But there is a cap on it that is probably rotted if you have not replaced it.

The "blanking" cap or something like that.

All the ones ive seen were rotten.

[thirdmanj]

The "blanking" cap or something like that.

All the ones ive seen were rotten.

So how would that affect engine performance? I'm guessing that it'd be negligible, otherwise we'd hear more about it as a problem. I'll check it out and replace it if nessary, can't hurt.

[sdg3205]

So how would that affect engine performance? I'm guessing that it'd be negligible, otherwise we'd hear more about it as a problem. I'll check it out and replace it if nessary, can't hurt.


Yeah, I'm not sure. It was one of those things I replaced along with a zillion other things. How's your idle?

[thirdmanj]

Idle is normal as far as I can tell, a little of that trademark D lope that I understand is a querk of the K-jet, and it's a bit more dramatic because of the Stage II cams.

[thirdmanj]

I found these wires disconnected. I'm trying to trace them down now, but if anyone out there knows what they are off the top of their head, that'd do too.
717471757173

[sdg3205]

The one by the throttle assembly is for an automatic I believe

I've also got they mystery ones by the firewall, even with a completely different connector. I've seen em dangling on a few cars.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So how would that affect engine performance? I'm guessing that it'd be negligible, otherwise we'd hear more about it as a problem. I'll check it out and replace it if nessary, can't hurt.

I found no difference when I put a new cap on mine.

[David T]

The only way the vapor recovery system can cause an idle quality issue is if the small vacuum line that connects to a nipple under the W pipe is not connected (or if the nipple is not blocked off). That line "turns on" the vapor recovery system when the motor is running. If the nipple sucks air it leans out the A/F ratio. The charcoal canister doesn't seem to go bad. The rubber cap doesn't seem to matter if it's there or not, on just about every car I have looked that cap is eaten up. What I do see is the vent hose coming out of the bottom of the canister is very often plugged up with bug cr-p. You can also replace the filter by removing the bottom of the canister. Easy enough to keep the system working so you don't get fuel fumes when the car is not running on a hot day.
David Teitelbaum