third break light

[jfirios]

I just want to be able to tap my relay into the break wire so that I can run the new break lights off their own 12v power, which one is the break light wire from either the plug on the passenger side plugs or from the break light itself?

[Ron]

Green-Purple

[jfirios]

is that the power wire? so the ground wire would be the green with the white stripe?
It seems that I am not getting any power to those wires. I think the problem might be with either the switch in the foot well, or in the connection in the back of the engine compartment.

[jfirios]

are the reverse wires through the same black multi plug at the back of the engine compartment? Because it seems that I don't have reverse lights either.

[Ron]

Yes same black plug.
The ground wire is Black (both sides) and is in the same plug also.

Here ya go:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94&d=1306264515

[DMCVegas]

Out of curiosity, why are you installing a relay to power your 3rd Brake Light? A relay causes a split-second delay, and can endanger your safety since you want those lights to come on as soon as possible. Likewise it far easier to just fish the wires down the C-Pillar on the rear quarters, and just tap into the feed with a quick connect.

[DMCTek]

are the reverse wires through the same black multi plug at the back of the engine compartment? Because it seems that I don't have reverse lights either.

More often than not no reverse light on a manual transmission points to a bad reverse switch (Left side of transmission housing, 2 wire plug). Quick test: jumper the two wires together KOEO (key on engine off). If this test light the reverse lamps the switch is bad.

+1 I would not run an extra relay and separate 12v for a third brake light especially if you are running a modern LED high mount (LED current pull is minimal).

[jfirios]

i am trying to diagnose the problem too, if there is a problem with the switch by the break pedal, then no power will go to the lights. Your right though, led lights take hardly any power so I can just tap into the lines,but I would never just use a quick tap. I hard solder and heat shrink all my electrical connections.

[DMCTek]

i am trying to diagnose the problem too, if there is a problem with the switch by the break pedal, then no power will go to the lights. Your right though, led lights take hardly any power so I can just tap into the lines,but I would never just use a quick tap. I hard solder and heat shrink all my electrical connections.

Your right hard wiring and heat shrink is the way to go, especially on the exterior of the car.

The three most common places I would check to diagnose a no brake lamp condition.

1) Brake light switch: Jump the wires on the connector or use a test light to see if you have power on both sides of the switch when the pedal is depressed.

2) Dirty connection on the bulk head plug: Clean the pins on the black connector mentioned earlier.

3) OEM tailight boards: Usually you will not loose all four brake lights, but I have seen it happen.

[jfirios]

I will try the switch first. I already tried the boards and the bulbs on the tail lights. The PO had so much funky wireing done to the car, who knows what is going on now. I talked to danny at DMC cali and he said there should be green wires attatched to the switch and i had a brown and black one, with some kind of resistor in line with one of the wires too. So GOD only knows what is going on there.
What should i use to clean the black multi pin plug in the engine bay?

[DMCTek]

I will try the switch first. I already tried the boards and the bulbs on the tail lights. The PO had so much funky wireing done to the car, who knows what is going on now. I talked to danny at DMC cali and he said there should be green wires attatched to the switch and i had a brown and black one, with some kind of resistor in line with one of the wires too. So GOD only knows what is going on there.
What should i use to clean the black multi pin plug in the engine bay?

The black / brown wire is factory. Late cars like yours are wired different (early cars will not light the brake lamps with the ignition off, later cars will)

I use a small round file or a peice of sandpaper rolled tight to clean the connector. Then I will spray it with electrical cleaner, blow it out and put some dielectric grease in it. I also bend the female terminals slightly for a tighter fit.

[DMCVegas]

The black / brown wire is factory. Late cars like yours are wired different (early cars will not light the brake lamps with the ignition off, later cars will)

I use a small round file or a peice of sandpaper rolled tight to clean the connector. Then I will spray it with electrical cleaner, blow it out and put some dielectric grease in it. I also bend the female terminals slightly for a tighter fit.

Even easier method is to use a pink eraser. It's firm, small enough to get into areas, and and only rubs off corrosion.

Also, check your continuity on the board/wires first with a multimeter. Tap the circuit board or sockets and see if you've got voltage when the brake pedal is pressed. It's possible you might just have loose bayonet sockets for the lamps. 3 of my tail lights went out after the first week since they're just pop-riveted in and come loose over time. From there you can either buy new boards, or do like I did and just get a nut & bolts set from Radio Shack to fix it. They're tiny little pieces that will fit through the rivets and then clamp them down. Works very nice and saves money.