Replacing dropping glass

[DMCNY]

Has anyone done this and what would be the best method for doing it?

I don't think I'm going to have any luck finding a used piece of glass so I've decided to go ahead and order the new drop window for my drivers door.

According to the website, the glass is ordered seperate from the carrier, so I'll need to remove my current glass and reuse my carrier. When I put in my new window motors I noticed that the glass was held in by what looks like windshield urathane.

What is the best way to seperate the carrier from the glass without busting it and tearing my hand opened in the process and avoiding a trip to the ER?

Is windshield urathane the best stuff to use to reattach the new glass? I noticed that Advanced Auto has it in the tube for like $25.00 a tube!!!

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes - you will need a tube of windshield urethane and you will throw most of it away. Don't use anything less. RTV etc. is a waste of time.

We successfully get about one in 4 out of the carrier. It takes so long if you have to cut it out, we generally just replace the carrier (time is more expensive than parts in a shop).

Here's another one of those "don't come complaining if you hurt yourself" processes:

What sometimes works is to heat the carrier up with a heat gun. Then set the glass against the edge of a workbench so that the carrier is hanging on the workbench surface and the glass is hanging down (hard to describe but the glass is at this point in a vertical position, upside down from how it goes in the car). Hit the edge of the glass with a plastic mallet. Often a few good hits will separate the glass from the glue, and I've never broken the glass. Obviously you need to be holding the glass with your other hand so it doesn't fall out and hit the floor. Heavy gloves would be a good idea if you are squeamish about this.

If you buy both the glass and the carrier from us we will glue it together for a reasonable fee, and then you won't have to buy the glue. I presume the other dealers will do this too.

[DMCNY]

If you buy both the glass and the carrier from us we will glue it together for a reasonable fee, and then you won't have to buy the glue. I presume the other dealers will do this too.

Dave, this sounds like the way I'd like to go. I'll pm you about placing the order.

Thanks!

[Patrick C]

Dave, this sounds like the way I'd like to go. I'll pm you about placing the order.

Thanks!

I'll be doing the same later this month!

[1batt4u]

I was told to use 3M window weld. IS that any good?

[DMCMW Dave]

I was told to use 3M window weld. IS that any good?

Yes - that is the most commonly available and works fine.

[Timeless]

If you buy both the glass and the carrier from us we will glue it together for a reasonable fee, and then you won't have to buy the glue. I presume the other dealers will do this too.
When you glued glass to the carrier were any measurements taken or is there a specification for the angle? I have new drop glass and carriers and noticed the gap in the carrier channel larger than the glass thickness.
Want to make sure the orientation/angle is correct.

[dn010]

Don't worry about the angle, the metal guides in the door can be adjusted. When I did this I pretty much filled the channel with urethane, set the glass, installed it in the door and put the window up so it would self align and let it dry. I taped the glass into position too. I had some gaps between the carrier and glass at the front and rear of the carrier channel, kind of like it was bowed out at the ends (it was probably from removing the glass) but it seemed pretty solid in the middle.

A while after I did mine I was kind of pissed because the drop glass started move more "forward" and left a gap at the back end when closed. I thought I glued it wrong. Eventually the drop glass wouldn't even close in the divider channel but kept moving inward. Adjusting the guides plus new window motor/regulator combo is what fixed it and now it is perfect. I've found there is really a lot of slop in the design if it's not all adjusted properly.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20193-Passenger-side-window-won-t-line-up

As a side note, I know later cars had the glass taped into the carriers which could mean they might have had wider channels to accommodate the tape.

[Rich]

Posting this for the current issue, not answering the 2011-era posts.

I think I see a problem with the proposed reassembly process in the post below.

If the carrier+glass assembly was raised into the closed position using the power window regulator/motor shortly after the urethane had begun to cure then there?s a good chance the carrier got pushed rearward relative to the glass. The urethane has to be well-cured first.

Glue the carrier to the glass and wait until the urethane hardens up before using the window regulator to drive it all the way to the top the first time. Check the urethane instructions for cure time. Wait longer than that before fully closing the glass the first time.

Summary: If unsure of where to position the carrier fore-aft under the glass before you glue them together use the drop glass in the other door as a guide. Don?t use the window lift/regulator to find the correct drop glass-to-carrier fore-aft registration with urethane that?s not fully hard/cured.


Don't worry about the angle, the metal guides in the door can be adjusted. When I did this I pretty much filled the channel with urethane, set the glass, installed it in the door and put the window up so it would self align and let it dry. I taped the glass into position too. I had some gaps between the carrier and glass at the front and rear of the carrier channel, kind of like it was bowed out at the ends (it was probably from removing the glass) but it seemed pretty solid in the middle.

A while after I did mine I was kind of pissed because the drop glass started move more "forward" and left a gap at the back end when closed. I thought I glued it wrong. Eventually the drop glass wouldn't even close in the divider channel but kept moving inward. Adjusting the guides plus new window motor/regulator combo is what fixed it and now it is perfect. I've found there is really a lot of slop in the design if it's not all adjusted properly.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20193-Passenger-side-window-won-t-line-up

As a side note, I know later cars had the glass taped into the carriers which could mean they might have had wider channels to accommodate the tape.

[dn010]

the drop glass started move more "forward" and left a gap at the back end when closed.

To elaborate on this, the drop glass began to move forward and then fall inward because the regulator was failing and my guides were out of adjustment. It also took years for these symptoms to develop. It had nothing to do with the way the glass was glued to the carrier.

Also, I used the method of applying the glue and installing the glass in the closed position as suggested by Toby.

Aligned with the dimples or even if it is off a bit, there is enough adjustment in the door that you will end up with a good result (as long as you have a good window motor and regulator).

[Timeless]

Thanks guys!

[dn010]

You can shim the glass against the side of the carrier that faces the door/outside, line up the dimples and then let it dry, I think that is closest to factory.

Toby's whole point with setting the glass up and installing it in the door with the window closed was so it could intentionally move in the carrier before drying and line itself up.

I have installed a used stock piece of drop glass already in the carrier and also installed the glass in the carrier using Topy's method. Either way you do it, you will be fine, just make sure the glass and carrier are really clean otherwise the urethane won't adhere properly.

Let us know how you make out.