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View Full Version : Engine I've waited long enough - coolant flush process begins today



rundmc
01-02-2012, 01:11 PM
Wish me luck. I'm doing the drain today and I'm thinking of converting to Evans waterless coolant for the rest of the car's life. Any thoughts or advice is appreciated as I've never done this on the car before, but based on the previous owners records, it is past due.

Ron
01-02-2012, 01:19 PM
Don't breath the fumes, after flush, make sure you run it with the cap off ~15 minutes after it comes to normal operating temp (repeat if you have to add...you will),then check level before the next few runs after total cooling.

stevedmc
01-02-2012, 01:20 PM
Why would you want to use a product like this? Are you trying to never change the coolant again?

Use a good brand pre-mixed 50/50 (all color) coolant such as Prestone and you will be glad you did. You still need to change the stuff every couple of years regardless of what the bottle says.

vwdmc16
01-02-2012, 02:23 PM
never heard of waterless coolant mixes before but after reading up it makes sense in high performance applications. It claims zero corrosion problems because there is now no water in the system. which is nice hbut how will you get all teh old coolant out of the engine? so If your not racing the car what improvement do you gain for a $34/gal coolant? I suppose if you had a cooling fan or even water pump failure you could continue on for a little longer without causing permanent damage.


But I am really intrigued by that product, its a fantastic idea. let us know how well it performs.

WelmoedJ
01-02-2012, 02:34 PM
Since our car has a light alloy (aluminium) engine block, I have searched for a coolant that has a longer lasting protection and misses the disadvantages of regular coolant as used in our D.

I found G12+ (brand type of VAG) to be the better coolant solution.
One of the advantages is that it doesn't leave a "residu" everywhere in the engine.
It only protects those areas in need of protection.
Another advantage it that is doesn't degrade as fast as the "greenish" coolant so it can be in the car much longer (almost life according to VAG).

Before changing to G12+ the old coolant has to be drained completely and the cooling system needs a good flush to get rid of the old stuff.
Mixing of old coolant and G12+ only degrades G12+ functions a bit, but mixing is harmless.

It's in my car for over two years now and I'm very content with it.
If you're interested, do a search for G12+ on Internet.

DMCMW Dave
01-02-2012, 02:59 PM
Why would you want to use a product like this? Are you trying to never change the coolant again?

Use a good brand pre-mixed 50/50 (all color) coolant such as Prestone and you will be glad you did. You still need to change the stuff every couple of years regardless of what the bottle says.

I kind of agree with this sentiment. Evans is not particularly available on every corner, so when you do have a system dump it will he hard to find to top it back off. I have heard of it, it's mostly intended for racing applications which doesn't necessarily mean it's right for a street car. I'd also be concerned that you can't get all the old coolant out of the engine without flushing a lot of this through the system. It is very difficult to get the engine "dry".

DMC5180
01-02-2012, 10:06 PM
I kind of agree with this sentiment. Evans is not particularly available on every corner, so when you do have a system dump it will he hard to find to top it back off. I have heard of it, it's mostly intended for racing applications which doesn't necessarily mean it's right for a street car. I'd also be concerned that you can't get all the old coolant out of the engine without flushing a lot of this through the system. It is very difficult to get the engine "dry".

100% correct. You must have a completely DRY system like right after a total rebuild or you lose the benefit of the WATERLESS component. It is also about $30 a gallon. Don't waste your money on it.

Ron
01-02-2012, 11:16 PM
Actually, you are suppose to use their Prep Fluid (supposedly descales and hygroscopically absorbs any residual water after draining) first....

But I agree with the comments about using a 'regular' formula, as long as it states it is safe for aluminum, has corrosion protection, etc.

rundmc
01-03-2012, 09:56 AM
Yes, I have some Peak long life coolant ready to go. Hadn't considered the possibility of coolant leaks making life with Evans difficult. Guess I will be sticking with conventional for the time being...

Kevin
01-03-2012, 12:53 PM
Any thoughts or advice is appreciated as I've never done this on the car before...

Back to your original question, here is a guide on flushing and bleeding if you need it, thanks to Dave Swingle:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

rundmc
01-03-2012, 02:15 PM
Thanks for this!