Replacing clutch slave

[SBL]

After replacing the clutch line to a new SS one, it looks like the slave leaks. It is a slow leak, but enough that I have to top off the reservoir each time I drive. In looking at this from the top of the engine, it seems like there is a lot of stuff to remove first. Can the slave be replaced from under the car?

As a second question, could a really compulsive re-bleeding stop a leak?

[Cory W]

I've replaced a couple of slave cylinders in various cars using a combination of above-and undercar work. Nothing needs to be removed, but you need to be cautious you don't pull anything apart while working in the area. (My first time I pulled a wire off the resistor, then wondered why it wouldn't start)

Some notes based on experience:
Back the car up on ramps before you start. Stable, plenty of work room. Place some heavy cardboard over the engine and use a stepstool or ladder to climb up and lean over/lay on the engine to work from above. This also helps make bleeding easier. Be mindful of what's under you.

I have found an 18-24" pry bar helps pull back the fork so you can place the pin the slave cylinder pushes on in its proper position.

Unless it's recent, I'd consider getting the master cylinder at the same time, since it will likely follow within the next three months.

It's highly unlikely a bleed will stop a leak. Replacement is your best option, and will make that system practically bulletproof. Remember to flush the system every two years.

[micmak]

I've replaced a couple of slave cylinders in various cars using a combination of above-and undercar work. Nothing needs to be removed, but you need to be cautious you don't pull anything apart while working in the area. (My first time I pulled a wire off the resistor, then wondered why it wouldn't start)

Some notes based on experience:
Back the car up on ramps before you start. Stable, plenty of work room. Place some heavy cardboard over the engine and use a stepstool or ladder to climb up and lean over/lay on the engine to work from above. This also helps make bleeding easier. Be mindful of what's under you.

I have found an 18-24" pry bar helps pull back the fork so you can place the pin the slave cylinder pushes on in its proper position.

Unless it's recent, I'd consider getting the master cylinder at the same time, since it will likely follow within the next three months.

It's highly unlikely a bleed will stop a leak. Replacement is your best option, and will make that system practically bulletproof. Remember to flush the system every two years.

+1! Cory and I did mine last year. One thing to also help is to remove the engine cover. You can get further in over the engine with it removed. It is easy enough to get the old slave out, but it can be a bitch to get the new one into position. The pry bar was a must for us doing my car. Disconnecting and reconnecting the last piece of the line, part #:106773, from the bulkhead connector to the slave can be frustrating too. Take your time and be sure you are not cross threading the nut onto the slave or the bulkhead connector. We ended up removing part #:106773 and getting a new piece fabricated locally. Patience, patience, patience will determine if you will need to replace that part too or reuse the existing one!
And while I am on the subject, Vendors, why don’t you make a SS lline that goes from the master cylinder right back to the slave? Why have the bulkhead connector about a foot or so before the slave? Why not ONE piece from the master to the slave?

......Mike......

[Chris Burns]

My mechanic replaced a slave cylinder on a D back in 2010. He said it was a pain to do. This is a good thread for me, just in case if my D ends up being a 5 speed. So it can be replaced in your driveway or garage?

[micmak]

My mechanic replaced a slave cylinder on a D back in 2010. He said it was a pain to do. This is a good thread for me, just in case if my D ends up being a 5 speed. So it can be replaced in your driveway or garage?

Yep, exactly as Cory described above. A garage is probably easier in case you run out of time and have to return the next day. At least you can literally walk away and leave everything as it is in a garage – in a driveway it’s a bit different. It’s a two person job, ideally. Back it up onto ramps. Have one guy underneath the bell housing, and one guy climbs up a step ladder, onto the engine and lays on top of the engine on cardboard or a piece of old carpeting or whatever. Must surely look ridiculous if you have peering neighbors, but who cares!!!!! :)

......Mike......

[outatym2001]

You can read my helpful advice on replacing the clutch slave cylinder in this thread below.
My post is number 11.
Other people have different ideas about the removal. If you don’t have a lift then you are stuck laying on top of the engine with the engine cover removed.

Time for a new clutch or something else
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2685-Time-for-a-new-clutch-or-something-else

[micmak]

I never realized until now that there are two threads on the go at the same time which are discussing basically the same thing. Mods, can this thread be merged or otherwise added to the "Clutch Master/Slave Recommendations?" thread? Seems kinda silly to have two conversations about the same thing happening at the same time.....

Just askin'!

......Mike......

[SBL]

I am not suer that I see a consensus here. Let me be sure. First, it IS possible to rplace the slave without removing the intake. You will need to crawl on top of the engine, and, its best to remove the engine cover. Is that correct?

There was some discussion involving working from beneath the car, but noting that the rear had to be up on ramps. Was the implication here that it could be done virtually exclusively from underneath?

Sorry to ask again, but I need to know what the tried and true options are. I usually do things by myself, but it sounds like this could be a 2 person job. I don't want to enlist help and then not know what to do, or get stranded at their house.

[Bitsyncmaster]

As long as a bolt does not break, I don't see a reason not to remove the intake. It's no problem doing the slave with the intake off and only adds 30 to 60 min. of time.

So you can see if the four bolts will come off that hold the intake before you attempt your slave. I go by feel to know if the bolt is going to break or not so I don't know how to tell you to check those four bolts.

[outatym2001]

A mechanical lift is really ideal but as I don’t have one I used a compact floor jack, and two jack stands. It’s required to also have several different lengths of lumber to put in between the jack stands and steel frame or fiberglass body. I also own two ramps in case I don’t feel like using the floor jack and stands.
My thread.
Proper use of the floor jack and jack stands on the front and rear of the DeLorean.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1411-Proper-use-of-the-floor-jack-and-jack-stands-on-the-front-and-rear-of-the-DeLorean.

I did the removal and install of the slave cylinder and the bleeding process while laying on the engine with the engine cover removed simply because I don’t have a mechanical lift.
I only removed the engine cover and there is no need to remove anything else in the engine compartment.

I installed the new stainless steel braided clutch fluid line by raising the driver side only and placing the body on two jack stands at the forward and rear jack lifting points.

With the drivers side only on the jack stands I started the install of the clutch master cylinder.
I connected the fluid line to the master cylinder through the access panel in the trunk where the clutch fluid reservoir is. The access panel has to be removed (Fuel Filler Closing Panel 106002).

With an assistant everything goes quicker but it can done alone it just takes a lot longer.

[micmak]

I am not suer that I see a consensus here. Let me be sure. First, it IS possible to rplace the slave without removing the intake. You will need to crawl on top of the engine, and, its best to remove the engine cover. Is that correct?

There was some discussion involving working from beneath the car, but noting that the rear had to be up on ramps. Was the implication here that it could be done virtually exclusively from underneath?

Sorry to ask again, but I need to know what the tried and true options are. I usually do things by myself, but it sounds like this could be a 2 person job. I don't want to enlist help and then not know what to do, or get stranded at their house.


Yes Steve it IS most definitely possible to replace the slave without removing the intake. Also Yes, to removing the engine cover - you will have much more room to get in and see what you are doing. See post # 5 above for a description of what we did with my car. Two people; one above and one below makes it a much easier task. Also, I would recommend doing the job at home rather than driving to someone else's place. You will have to let it cool down for a while first! Valuable time wasted really. It's a tricky enough job without having to deal with a hot engine too!

......Mike......

[bandit]

Do it from underneath, much easier. I've done a few & underneath is certainly the best way. They are not the best to access to it's not too bad a job.

[DavidProehl]

I have found an 18-24" pry bar helps pull back the fork so you can place the pin the slave cylinder pushes on in its proper position.


I'm currently doing this job and have a question on the suggestion of using a pry bar to pull the fork. How much prying pressure can I safely apply? I'm using an 18 inch bar and applying a fair amount but the fork won't move. It is possible I'm being overly cautious, I don't want to mess up my clutch. The slave is a beast to get back on there! Any other suggestions?

[82DMC12]

Hey David! I just did a clutch slave. I did it from up top with intake removed since I was in there anyway. You can pry quite a bit. But remember the pin pivots, might be easier to pivot it upward, put the slave on, then push it downward into place. Think that's how I did it.

Andy

[DavidProehl]

Hey David! I just did a clutch slave. I did it from up top with intake removed since I was in there anyway. You can pry quite a bit. But remember the pin pivots, might be easier to pivot it upward, put the slave on, then push it downward into place. Think that's how I did it.

Andy

Hey Andy! Good to hear from you! Been reading a little on the restoration your working on for someone, sounds like a big job.

I did try positioning the pin vertically first, then dropping it down, however with hoses and wires behind there clearance to drop it down even when fully pressed in is a challenge. Perhaps a combonation of that method and a pry bar would do it. I've been working primarily from underneath the car, with the intake on there is a lot better visibility and space from under there. Had no trouble taking it off so I must just need to mess with it some more. Maybe it is just one of those things were I need to walk away for a while and come back at it with a cool head!

[82DMC12]

Yeah I did it without the intake or heater hoses in the way.... And it was still a pain in the ass! Good luck, you will get it on.

[DavidProehl]

Got it! Walking away from it for an hour was helpful. First I positioned the cylinder where it needed to be, minus the pin in it. Then I tried to recreate the angles I must have used to get it out when the pin was in. That helped me visualize what I needed to do. Then I laid into it and she slipped into place! Thanks for the words of wisdom!

[jawn101]

I approve and congratulate this victory. :) Good work David! She'll be back on the road in no time.

[Manxmann]

Well done, I did mine last week. Not sure my gonads will ever be the same! :D

[Tillsy]

Spent the entire day replacing my clutch slave with my mate today - what a nightmare yet thrilling job that was.

To help with the tips for getting this job done, our success with getting the beast out was:

1. Using a pry bar from underneath to pull the pin out as far as possible (but could only leverage it around 75%)
2. From the top sliding a screwdriver underneath the pin and, holding it from both ends either side of the pin, giving it one hell of a sharp pull upwards.

This successfully pulled the pin and slave up at a tight enough angle for it to come free. Then simply a matter of sliding the slave across and out below.

Refitting was a case of:
1. Installing from above
2. Poke the pin upward and push the slave straight down onto it to force its hydraulics all the way in
3. Reverse the slave out from the pin, tuck its rear into its home, and poke the end up at an angle
4. Direct the pin at an angle poking into the slave
5. Push downward very firmly to slot it all into place

Took us an entire day to come up with that simple process, but those steps are ultimately what achieved it. Not that I would want to do it again anytime soon, but wouldn't be concerned about it taking very long next time.

Master of course piece of cake (though I fitting from underneath rather than from above which the workshop manual suggests). Also replaced by clutch line - even though it was already the stainless braided one I was not comfortable with my old clutch system being deteriorated so wasn't taking any chances. In addition to replacing the reservoir hose and thoroughly cleaning the reservoir itself, this means that my entire clutch system is now overhauled. Tested perfectly (within garage anyway).

[Tillsy]

Forgot to mention as it is a factor everyone thinks about - I didn't remove anything what-so-ever. Intake, hoses, and even the engine cover were all still in place. We were intending to remove the engine cover but completely forgot. On one hand I'd like to say it did not impair us, but on the other I am about to go have a spa to relax my sore ribs and neck!

[Tillsy]

To help with the tips for getting this job done, our success with getting the beast out was:

1. Using a pry bar from underneath to pull the pin out as far as possible (but could only leverage it around 75%)
2. From the top sliding a screwdriver underneath the pin and, holding it from both ends either side of the pin, giving it one hell of a sharp pull upwards.

I forgot to mention an important step in-between these two - I slid a knife down there and cut off the boot from the old slave. Had I not done this step 2 still would have been extremely difficult as the pin was wedged amongst all the rubber further complicating getting clearance out.

[34henry3w]

Hey everyone. I just did this job by myself yesterday, so I thought I would share the experience while it is still fresh..

Firstly, when you order the new slave, make sure to ask them to give you a copper washer to replace the plastic one...

I did everything from below. I didn't even open the engine cover until it was time to bleed it.

-Get the back of the car up on some wooden ramps, with enough room to be able to lie under the transmission with a reasonable amount of clearance..I used 4 2x12s..so about 8''..more is better. Put some jackstands under the axles in case the tires magically deflate while you are under there...again safety first..
-Block the front and back of the front wheels so it doesn't roll forward or backwards and kill you..ebrake on and in gear.
-Use a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the master reservoir. dot get it on any painted surface.
-Disconnect the hard line to the slave with a small 13mm line wrench. try not to bend or kink the the line.
-Use a small socket to remove the two bolts holding the slave on..the best way to do this is lie directly under the transmission, and "HUG" it with both arms...and feel your way blind to the bolts...this is easier than it sounds..
-Be careful not to drop the washers off the two bolts.
-Push the clutch fork all the way forward..you may need a small flat prybar but i didn't...again,..this may push the car forward so be 100% sure it is blocked, ebrake on and in gear!
-Push the back of the slave straight up..it should come off..make sure not to drop the old rubber boot.
-With the old slave off, transfer the threaded fitting to the new slave, MAKING SURE to replace the plastic washer with a NEW copper one..
-Get back under the car with the new slave..pivot the rod on the clutch about 45 degrees..making sure the slave is not rotated 180 degrees..push the new slave up through the mess of coolant lines...push it up as far as you can so that you can slide the rod into the round rubber seal on the slave.
-now that the slave is lined up with the rod..take the slave with both hands and pull it towards you, compressing the piston in the slave with the rod...as you do this you will be able to rotate the slave into position..
-loosely re-install the two bolts...again by feel..you wont be able to see them...if they dont go in by hand they are crossthreaded..resist the urge to use the socket set..get them in a few turns with your hands and dont use the socket until you are 100% sure they aren't cross threaded..
-ok..this is important...when you go to attach the hard line to the slave (compression fitting bolt), and you start by hand tightening, it almost ALWAYS will cross thread, or not thread on at all..do NOT force it on with the 13mm line wrench. The reason it cross threads is because there is a twisting force introduced by the bending in the hard line..You will very likely have to unscrew the hard line at the other end (under the front of the trans)..so the hard line is totally free and detached...then it will be easy to hand thread it into the slave..once it is well hand threaded into the slave, re-attach the hard line at the front under the trans...which will not be hard.

bleeding..

-once all bolts are snug, clean out the empty reservoir of gunk and fill it up. have someone pump the clutch a few times and hold it to the floor..
-open up the engine cover and spend 15 mins with a flashlight looking through 100 coolant line for the tiny bleed nipple on the slave. use about a 2 foot long extension on a small socket to get in there and unscrew the bleed nipple about 1/4 a turn, letting some air out (while your friend is holding the pedal to the floor), and then retighten it.
-Check the resevoir and top up...make sure the resevoir never drains or it will suck air in..
-have your friend pump the clutch a few times and hold it to the floor..
-unscrew the bleed nipple 1/4 turn, listen for air hiss, and retighten..(while friend is holding pedal to the floor)
-top up the resevoir..
-have your friend pump the clutch a few times and hold it to the floor..
-unscrew the bleed nipple 1/4 turn, listen or air hiss, and retighten..(while friend is holding pedal to the floor)
-keep doing this until there is firm resistance on the clutch, you can see the slave moving in and out as your friend works the clutch, and there is not much of an air sound when you unscrew and tighten the bleed nipple.
-now make sure to clean all the clutch fluid off the powder coated frame..it will eat right through it..

for a couple days, carry the socket, the 2' long extension, and extra fluid with you in the car in case you need to re-bleed on the road, as well as all wrenches needed to tighten up all the bolts you undid...keep checking under he car for leaks, and the resevoir..

So, I was able to do this myself with little automotive knowledge...all from under the car without removing a single other part..took it for a ride today and it runs tops with no leaks..

I hope this info will encourage others to tackle the job!..it isn't so bad. That said my car is very clean underneath..if your car is rusty it may be harder...bolt breaking etc..

cheers!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

+1! Cory and I did mine last year. One thing to also help is to remove the engine cover. You can get further in over the engine with it removed. It is easy enough to get the old slave out, but it can be a bitch to get the new one into position. The pry bar was a must for us doing my car. Disconnecting and reconnecting the last piece of the line, part #:106773, from the bulkhead connector to the slave can be frustrating too. Take your time and be sure you are not cross threading the nut onto the slave or the bulkhead connector. We ended up removing part #:106773 and getting a new piece fabricated locally. Patience, patience, patience will determine if you will need to replace that part too or reuse the existing one!
And while I am on the subject, Vendors, why don’t you make a SS line that goes from the master cylinder right back to the slave? Why have the bulkhead connector about a foot or so before the slave? Why not ONE piece from the master to the slave?

......Mike......

"Why not ONE piece from the master to the slave?" Because the slave cylinder moves with the drive-line (being rubber mounted) while the master cylinder is rigidly mounted to the chassis. A flexible line is necessary for durability though it could be made with a long section of rigid tube to a short flex hose. Now the only problem with that would be shipping it without damage!
Rob

[DMCMW Dave]

The flex line could be run all the way to the slave Ina car with no crossover (with headers for example) but on a stock exhaust you would melt the line.


Sent from phone

[content22207_2]

"The flex line CAN be run all the way to the slave Ina car with no crossover"

That is how my line has been run for more than a decade:

41870

I believe Steve Rice also runs his flex line to the slave cylinder direct. Much simpler and easier than dealing with hard tubing on top of the transmission. Both of us still run stock exhaust manifolds, then flex tubing making a big reverse bend around the shock towers (very similar to the first half foot or so of crossover clearance).

Bill Robertson
#5939