After coolant flush - leaks EVERYWHERE!

[rundmc]

Hey all,

Tonight I pressure tested my cooling system, which before the flush had never once leaked anywhere. Using a Stant pressure tester, I pressurized the system to 15 psi and waited. Immediately I heard some leaking at the upper radiator hose. No problem - that's the one I removed so I tightened the clamp - no leaks.

Then I heard another. Looked 'round - it was coming from the T-junction behind the engine. UGH! Why??? Got a long screwdriver, managed to tighten them down. Stopped the leaks.

Put the pressure back on the system and went to wait 30 minutes. Came back down. More drips from the rear hoses, but this time from the hoses on the passenger side rear of the engine. Wait...why is there also a puddle at the front under the passenger tire??? Yes, a leaking hose there too right where it comes out of the fiberglass.

Have I done something wrong??? Could the flush have done this? I am not over-pressurizing the system according to the Stant tester manual. Any help is appreciated.

[Ron]

First guess would be the connections were not 'tight' when new or the hoses are aged and the same thing you mentioned finding in your tank was sealing them up, but you disturbed/removed it with the flush. I'd bet if you look up inside the hoses you had to tighten up, you'll find remainders of a ring formed by the same crud.

If you are worried about the pressure, 15 lbs is OK (although a bit higher than the cap rate is usually used to test)...you can get a good guess as to whether the gauge is correct by using the attachments to check the cap and see if it blows off at the correct pressure (assuming the cap is good).

FWIW- it would be good to keep everything related in the same thread ;-)

[DMCMW Dave]

You will find that leaks are much worse cold than hot. I've seen cars that don't seem to leak at all, leak like crazy if you pressurize the system when cold. When the hoses heat up they swell a bit and stop leaking.

That being said, it should not leak at all when pressure tested cold either, consider it an early warning.

[Doogie]

I have a 1922 Ford Model T that will run all summer long, and not leak at all during "the season".

When I put it up for storage (my cold Ohio garage), it'll start leaking from the upper radiator hose around January until April. Usually enough to empty the radiator over 4 months. Quick tighten of the clamps every year takes cares of it...

I would venture the Delorean would be the same...

[stevedmc]

How old are your hoses?

[rundmc]

The hoses were installed by PJ Grady in 2006 for the P.O. I'm also assuming that the P.O. never changed the coolant after that and I am changing it for the first time. Looks like I've got a lot of frustrating work ahead of me. Any advice on removing the intake so I can get to the hoses in the VOD just to cover all of my bases?

[nullset]

The hoses were installed by PJ Grady in 2006 for the P.O. I'm also assuming that the P.O. never changed the coolant after that and I am changing it for the first time. Looks like I've got a lot of frustrating work ahead of me. Any advice on removing the intake so I can get to the hoses in the VOD just to cover all of my bases?

If the system holds pressure, I wouldn't remove the intake manifold just for this. It's a pretty big headache.

I'd replace the leaking hoses, but I wouldn't mess with the ones under the intake.

If you REALLY want to do it, I'm happy to help out, as I've done it about 15 times now….

--buddy

[DMCMW Dave]

I'l look down into the valley (you can actually see into it near the throttle mount and at tha back of the engine) and if you see any signs of any coolant, pull the intake.

Good opportunity for a valley cleanout too, since you really don't know if that was done at the time.

[rundmc]

If the system holds pressure, I wouldn't remove the intake manifold just for this. It's a pretty big headache.

I'd replace the leaking hoses, but I wouldn't mess with the ones under the intake.

If you REALLY want to do it, I'm happy to help out, as I've done it about 15 times now….

--buddy

I'm going to attempt to tighten the clamps (they are in hard to reach places) and then pressure test again, but this process has been like Whack-A-Mole. I fix two leaks, two more spring up. If the re-clamping doesn't work, I'll replace 'em. If it still doesn't hold pressure and all of the obvious ones have been replaced, I'm going into the Valley.

And thanks for the offer, man. I might be needing your help here in the next few weeks...ugh...

[rundmc]

I'l look down into the valley (you can actually see into it near the throttle mount and at tha back of the engine) and if you see any signs of any coolant, pull the intake.

Good opportunity for a valley cleanout too, since you really don't know if that was done at the time.

Yes, the opportunities in there are what tempt me to just go for it, because it will make access to the other hoses behind the engine easier as well.

[Ron]

...leaking from the upper radiator hose.... Usually enough to empty the radiator over 4 months.Perhaps you should store it right side up? :deviltail:

[rundmc]

Just an update. After removing the engine cover to get at the hoses behind the block, the fuel pump access cover to reach those hoses adjacent to the fuel lines, and a variety of clamp tightening points around the upper radiator and water pump hoses, I finally got the system to hold cold pressure at slightly plus 15 psi.

The biggest culprit was that coolant hose by the fuel lines up front. I must have sat in the luggage compartment with a flashlight and a screwdriver watching it for 30 minutes this morning. While I was buying a new radiator cap, the guy at AutoZone tried to recommend some of that leak-stop sludge. Said it would lubricate my water pump and heater core and stop leaks without damaging anything. I just couldn't bring myself to put what looked like glittery sand into my car.

Now to bypass the otterstat and test the fans...

[stevedmc]

While I was buying a new radiator cap, the guy at AutoZone tried to recommend some of that leak-stop sludge. Said it would lubricate my water pump and heater core and stop leaks without damaging anything.

Next time the guy at Autozone tries to sell me something like that I am going to ask him if it's ever been tested on a Ferrari.

Edit: Ferrari's are too "common". I'm going to ask if the miracle product will work on a Tucker.

[rundmc]

Removed the rear fascia tonight and found a lake of coolant sitting in the VOD when I put a light through there.

I don't understand how a single flush on a car that had ZERO coolant leaks has suddenly sprung leaks AT EVERY JUNCTION. What did I do wrong?

[sean]

Removed the rear fascia tonight...

why did you remove the rear fascia?

[jmettee]

Perhaps the gauge on your pressure tester was wrong & you actually pressurized the system higher than you think? Just a guess at this point. If you have that bad of a leak situation now, I would have thought normal operating pressures would have leaked also. A coolant flush alone shouldn't have an impact on hose sealing.

[rundmc]

why did you remove the rear fascia?

I was removing it to replace it with a new one, and make it easier for a CAT and engine mount replacement I will be doing.


Perhaps the gauge on your pressure tester was wrong & you actually pressurized the system higher than you think? Just a guess at this point. If you have that bad of a leak situation now, I would have thought normal operating pressures would have leaked also. A coolant flush alone shouldn't have an impact on hose sealing.

That's what I was thinking too. I have a brand new Stant pressure tester and I followed the instructions to the letter for a 15 psi system. I cannot figure out how this SNAFUed so badly. I flushed until clear, added distilled water, added 1.5 gallons of coolant and pressure tested - and the crazy began! There's never been a leak in the system until this flush, which is the first one I've done since ownership. Kinda makes you feel like a moron...

[Ron]

Did you try testing the cap to confirm the pressure gauge is OK (try a couple)?
Look up in the hoses?

I guess it's possible, but, it would be really odd for it to have that many new leaks from over-pressuring it (with a brand new tester) -- Seems that it would have blown off pressure at the weakest point (or two, or three?), but not that many, especially considering they then leaked w/o pressure.

It IS weird!

(Brainstorm afterthoughts ;-)
Is there any chance that your cap is bad and holding too much pressure?...possibly scooting the hoses and leaking once they cool?
Maybe do a pressure check while running normal temp (watch it a while after you shut it off too).

[rundmc]

I have the cap that came with my car and I bought a new one as well. I will test both of them tonight with the tester to see what's what. At least I have a "control" with the new cap, although I think that one is 16 psi rated.

Haven't looked up into the hoses, but I've visually inspected (and tightened) almost every damned hose on the car (minus the ones in the VOD and the heater core -- God help me if the heater core does this too)

What's bizarre is the fact that there were no leaks in the system ever when I bought the car. PJ Grady installed entirely new coolant hoses and a new system on it in 2006. However, I did notice a lot of air coming out of the bleeder screw when I started to prep for the flush, so maybe it is possible the coolant hoses were letting in air in many different places while operating? I don't know, and it's messing with my head.

I'm faced with the prospect of just replacing all the cooling hoses myself and starting from scratch so I know for certain how the work has been done. What's better - silicone or rubber?

[nullset]

I'm faced with the prospect of just replacing all the cooling hoses myself and starting from scratch so I know for certain how the work has been done. What's better - silicone or rubber?

Silicone is better but I don't know if it's worth the cost.

[sean]

Silicone is better but I don't know if it's worth the cost.

+1 They will both most likely last the lifetime of your ownership.

[rundmc]

I'm starting to wonder if the system was overfilled when pressure was applied, but when I looked in the tank, the level was just above the hose opening as directed before I used the pressure tester. So damned frustrating...

[dmc6960]

I'm starting to wonder if the system was overfilled when pressure was applied, but when I looked in the tank, the level was just above the hose opening as directed before I used the pressure tester. So damned frustrating...

Over or under filled would not have made a difference. Its the pressure which would have. Either the liquid pushes on the joints or the air does, either way its the same pressure.

I too am baffled why everything would be leaking now, but it could just be a sign that it all needed replacing anyways.

[Ron]

However, I did notice a lot of air coming out of the bleeder screw when I started to prep for the flush, so maybe it is possible the coolant hoses were letting in air in many different places while operating? I don't know, and it's messing with my head.
I don't see air being sucked in since the system pressure should generally be at or above the ambient...if the system isn't tight enought to handle normal differences caused by ambient pressure/temps, it should show up with the tester.

I'm not going to speak the dreaded words...but all of that air sounds like another good reason to check it while running.

[jawn101]

Perhaps drain some oil and see if it seems suspiciously thin...

[DMCMW Dave]

Perhaps drain some oil and see if it seems suspiciously thin...

Or green.....

[rundmc]

Over or under filled would not have made a difference. Its the pressure which would have. Either the liquid pushes on the joints or the air does, either way its the same pressure.

I too am baffled why everything would be leaking now, but it could just be a sign that it all needed replacing anyways.

According to the Grady repair record, it was all replaced in 2006. Sigh....


Perhaps drain some oil and see if it seems suspiciously thin...

I changed the oil last year and it was fine, but apparently things on this car can change without warning. I will change the oil again and see...

[Ron]

Or green.....
:hss:

[jmettee]

Just curious, where is/was the car when you pressure tested? Was it out in the cold or in a garage at moderate temps? If out in the cold, I can see that the hoses were hard & shrunk a little, causing any loose clamps to become more evident.

When you went after the hose clamps to check tightness, were they tight or did you get more than 1 turn on the clamp screws? If you had a couple turns, then the clamps were too loose. Whenever I replace my hoses, I go back around & retighten the screws after a few drives/heat cycles as they generally turn a little farther after "breaking in" the hoses.

[rundmc]

Just curious, where is/was the car when you pressure tested? Was it out in the cold or in a garage at moderate temps? If out in the cold, I can see that the hoses were hard & shrunk a little, causing any loose clamps to become more evident.

When you went after the hose clamps to check tightness, were they tight or did you get more than 1 turn on the clamp screws? If you had a couple turns, then the clamps were too loose. Whenever I replace my hoses, I go back around & retighten the screws after a few drives/heat cycles as they generally turn a little farther after "breaking in" the hoses.

I was in my garage, but it was still pretty cold. Yes, the hose clamps had a suspicious amount of play in them when I tightened them. Some were pretty snug, but most had a full turn plus left in them.