door roof seal 106967

[delorean pt]

Dear friends
Does anyone know if the door roof seal 106967 can be fitted without removing the door?
What about the rivets inside the door frame?
Thanks

[QuadcityDMC]

Yes, the seal can be put on with out taking the door off. You need a 1/8th drill bit, clear hose to put around the tortion bar and a very steady hand, there is less then 1/8 of a inch from the pop rivet to the top of the door, if you drill to fast you could and can drill right out the top of the door.

It is the hardest replacement seals to do. If you take the door off it is much easier to do. There is a link some where that has a "How To".

It took me 2 hours to replace the seals.

[DMCMW Dave]

You do need to remove the roof T-panel.

Be extremely careful, not only is this the hardest seal to do, the cost of failure is incredible as you can end up with out-dents or even worse, holes in the top of your doors.

Avoid drilling out the rivets, better to drill the heads off and stop. Then use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut them off as you go, less chance of running a drill through the top of your door. Protect the torsion bar.

[tgraham]

I've heard of people putting a rubber hose over the torsion bar. I prefer to just remove it entirely and keep it well away from the drill/dremel. Also, if you remove the strut, you can hyperextend the door so that it's straight up - this will make it easier to attack those rivets.

Travis

[sean]

I've heard of people putting a rubber hose over the torsion bar. I prefer to just remove it entirely and keep it well away from the drill/dremel. Also, if you remove the strut, you can hyperextend the door so that it's straight up - this will make it easier to attack those rivets.

I use the "remove strut and cover torsion bar with hose" method. The extra few inches of opening you get with the strut out makes attacking those rivets easier.

[eight8toy]

Bringing up an old thread...

Do you really have to remove the T-panel to replace these seals? I've got the new rubber seals from DMCH that look pre-trimmed so I'd love to get those installed instead of sitting in my parts box in the garage.

And I read somewhere that instead of rivets to use machine screws to replace, any ideas of size of screw? I imagine they would need to be pretty short as well...

Has anyone tried using a dremel to shave off the top of the rivet and then gently tapping it out or is the 1/8th drill bit the tool of choice?

Thanks!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Bringing up an old thread...

Do you really have to remove the T-panel to replace these seals? I've got the new rubber seals from DMCH that look pre-trimmed so I'd love to get those installed instead of sitting in my parts box in the garage.

And I read somewhere that instead of rivets to use machine screws to replace, any ideas of size of screw? I imagine they would need to be pretty short as well...

Has anyone tried using a dremel to shave off the top of the rivet and then gently tapping it out or is the 1/8th drill bit the tool of choice?

Thanks!

Although I'm sure someone will come forward and claim thev'e actually done this (ala Claude) please don't try this at home. The T roof needs to come off yes.

[mluder]

Although I'm sure someone will come forward and claim thev'e actually done this (ala Claude) please don't try this at home. The T roof needs to come off yes.

Agreed... I tried and failed.

Chhers
Steve

[mluder]

Although I'm sure someone will come forward and claim thev'e actually done this (ala Claude) please don't try this at home. The T roof needs to come off yes.

Agreed... I tried and failed.

Cheers
Steve

[DMC-81]

Bringing up an old thread...

Do you really have to remove the T-panel to replace these seals? I've got the new rubber seals from DMCH that look pre-trimmed so I'd love to get those installed instead of sitting in my parts box in the garage.

And I read somewhere that instead of rivets to use machine screws to replace, any ideas of size of screw? I imagine they would need to be pretty short as well...

Has anyone tried using a dremel to shave off the top of the rivet and then gently tapping it out or is the 1/8th drill bit the tool of choice?

Thanks!

Technically it's easier, but no, you don't have to. I replaced the seals without removing the T panel. I have pictures and detailed comments about that job in the Interior Restoration album ( page 5) in my profile.

Here's one of the pictures:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45261&d=1470741502

And one about the screws:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45263&d=1470742331
There was no way that I'll want to drill out rivets in the door again, so I opted to use stainless steel sheet metal screws. They are #8 x 3/8" pan Phillips. They worked great.

Etc... Good luck with the job.

[dn010]

I didn't know you were supposed to remove the panel to replace these... :dunno:

I replaced mine many years ago and used stainless sheet screws as well. Removing the rivets out leaves a of it portion inside the roof which will rattle around until it finds a spot to rest. I opted to drill the rivets out, I was confident I wouldn't go beyond it and damage the stainless. If you're worried about the bar, you can remove the gas strut and prop the door further open to make it easier/better angle to get to the rivets.

[David T]

Another tip, place a piece of copper tubing over the drill bit leaving just the tip of the drill exposed to act as a stop so you don't touch the door skin. Try to drill the rivet out at an angle removing just the head of the rivet.