Body bolt stripped any suggestions.

[Totally 80s]

I was putting on my front trunk sway bar and ever since I got it a few years ago it never went on quite right. So today I tried to put the bolt in and it just kind of falls through with a couple of twists and won't tighten of course. It is the driver side.

Right now I guess my options are Helicoil or tap a larger size but just wanted to see if I was missing something or if anyone had any other suggestions.

[homeselljeff]

I have this same problem what is the fix?


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[kenny]

I put a separate nut on the bottom of mine as a quick and easy fix. Pack a small piece of metal between it and the frame or use a large screwdriver to stop nut spinning when tightening bolt.

I will weld a nut in properly when I eventually seperate body and frame

[Drive Stainless]

I have seen this a handful of times, especially with the number of owners who have installed the strut tower bars. There are a few ways you could go about this:


Add the nut from below as previously suggested. This is the easy way.


See if you can pop off the aluminum cup from the fiberglass. Use a chisel and go slowly to avoid damaging the fiberglass more than necessary. This will give you enough room to install a timesert or helicoil. Then clean the fiberglass & cup and re-glue the cup with epoxy resin - preferably West Systems G/Flex epoxy. Reinstalling the bolt will help clamp the cup in place while it cures.


Raise the body approximately 6-8 inches and use a right-angle drill to install the timesert/helicoil. This is the hard way.

[Nicholas R]

It's unfortunate that this is one of the only body/frame connections that doesn't use a captured nut.

[BABIS]

what is the suggested torque for the trunk body bolts?

[Drive Stainless]

what is the suggested torque for the trunk body bolts?

23 ft*lbs

[iflights]

Reviving an old thread and it may well be the only thread on the topic...

Started to install a strut tower bar only to find that the passenger side front body bolt is spinning and rusted together. Looking closely shows a nut spinning as well in the little receiver box on the strut tower itself The driver side came out with no problem.

Before I go to unholy lengths to get this bolt removed...

#1 I'm assuming this is a PO repair where they previously added a nut, but how in the world did they get the nut in there?
#2 How would I get a new nut in there?

Thanks in advance.

[Drive Stainless]

Reviving an old thread and it may well be the only thread on the topic...

Started to install a strut tower bar only to find that the passenger side front body bolt is spinning and rusted together. Looking closely shows a nut spinning as well in the little receiver box on the strut tower itself The driver side came out with no problem.

Before I go to unholy lengths to get this bolt removed...

#1 I'm assuming this is a PO repair where they previously added a nut, but how in the world did they get the nut in there?
#2 How would I get a new nut in there?

Thanks in advance.

Can you try to take a pic?

There should be no nut in there, and if there is, it's either a very thin nut, or they cut and welded the frame to get it in there.

The right way to fix this would be to add a timesert, which means removing the body from the frame. A somewhat less-invasive approach may to enlarge one of the little openings just enough to slip a nut in there, but that makes it a fun little game to remove and reinstall, or even re-tighten it in the future.

There are very few threads in the frame to support this bolt, and I'm surprised more owners haven't stripped the hole installing these strut tower bars.

If it were me, I would probably leave the strut tower bar off, leave the bolt alone for now, and plan to pull the body off the frame in the future when it's convenient to repair it correctly.

[Rich_NYS]

There's some kinda "nut" built into the frame (possibly welded, and the weld broke.) I have my body off and can see there might be enough access to sneak a nut in there for a repair, but I agree with Matt...a timesert would be the way to go.

FWIW, you can raise the front of the body off the frame and get enough access without doing a full separation if you use "right-angle tools." Probably could do the job in one weekend.

[iflights]

There's some kinda "nut" built into the frame (possibly welded, and the weld broke.) I have my body off and can see there might be enough access to sneak a nut in there for a repair, but I agree with Matt...a timesert would be the way to go.

FWIW, you can raise the front of the body off the frame and get enough access without doing a full separation if you use "right-angle tools." Probably could do the job in one weekend.

Thanks Matt & Rich. The body lift option or grinding/cutting my way in, is beyond my capability. Unfortunately, I jumped at the chance to grab a DPNW bar as they just became available once again. This has become an exercise in frustration. But I have a now have a nice klingon bat'leth.

[iflights]

Matt,

You mentioned in your original reply many moons ago that gently prying off the aluminum cup could get me access I need for a Timesert or Helicoil. Do you still after this time believe that an option?

Steve

[Drive Stainless]

Matt,

You mentioned in your original reply many moons ago that gently prying off the aluminum cup could get me access I need for a Timesert or Helicoil. Do you still after this time believe that an option?

Steve

I do, but it is risky. The fiberglass might start cracking or chipping, which isn't a big deal (if minor) because you will need to re-epoxy the cup in place after removal anyway. Take your time and avoid causing unnecessary damage. The green glue that the factory used is not the most tenacious I've seen.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I do, but it is risky. The fiberglass might start cracking or chipping, which isn't a big deal (if minor) because you will need to re-epoxy the cup in place after removal anyway. Take your time and avoid causing unnecessary damage. The green glue that the factory used is not the most tenacious I've seen.

If it's epoxy glue, heat can soften it. And epoxy does not bond that good to aluminum. I've had aluminum epoxy break free when it sees temperature cycles.

[iflights]

If it's epoxy glue, heat can soften it. And epoxy does not bond that good to aluminum. I've had aluminum epoxy break free when it sees temperature cycles.

I'll try the heat route first as it sounds least destructive. I was thinking instead of hammer and chisel to pry it loose...use one of those oscillating multi-tools with a narrow blade to contain the area.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'll try the heat route first as it sounds least destructive. I was thinking instead of hammer and chisel to pry it loose...use one of those oscillating multi-tools with a narrow blade to contain the area.

Maybe heat and if you can get a freeze spray quickly freeze it (used in electronics troubleshooting), and the shock will break the bond.

[iflights]

Maybe heat and if you can get a freeze spray quickly freeze it (used in electronics troubleshooting), and the shock will break the bond.

Interesting thinking. I'll just about give anything a try that is within my capability and ability to reach.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Interesting thinking. I'll just about give anything a try that is within my capability and ability to reach.

The freeze spray is just R-134a in a can so if you can't find it you may be able to rig something up with a can of AC charge. You want the liquid to spray onto the aluminum.

[iflights]

The freeze spray is just R-134a in a can so if you can't find it you may be able to rig something up with a can of AC charge. You want the liquid to spray onto the aluminum.

Thanks for the assist. Attending a wedding tomorrow, but Amazon will deliver my freeze spray on Sunday. We'll give it a shot and see where this goes.

[Helirich]

I've not removed this bolt and I may not have a clear picture of what your up against. I'm assuming this bolt holds the fiberglass body to the shock tower. You need access to install a thread inseart. From what I gather, there's a aluminum washer bonded to the fiberglass to spread out the load.

Since you only need to install a thread insert, why do you need to pry this aluminum off? How about drilling the hole slightly bigger? If need be use a hole saw and go a bit bigger. Once your done, you can just use a bigger washer to hold the body down.

As far as thread inserts go, you might look into "riv-nuts".

[iflights]

I've not removed this bolt and I may not have a clear picture of what your up against. I'm assuming this bolt holds the fiberglass body to the shock tower. You need access to install a thread inseart. From what I gather, there's a aluminum washer bonded to the fiberglass to spread out the load.

Since you only need to install a thread insert, why do you need to pry this aluminum off? How about drilling the hole slightly bigger? If need be use a hole saw and go a bit bigger. Once your done, you can just use a bigger washer to hold the body down.

As far as thread inserts go, you might look into "riv-nuts".

This same thought crossed my mind that perhaps I could enlarge the existing hole in the aluminum cup, where I could then use a Helicoil drill bit to prepare the frame hole for the Helicoil insert. I dismissed it as it seemed like that would be an easy solution...there had to be a gotcha in there somewhere. Are there really any easy solutions when it comes to a DeLorean? Unfortunately there are very few photos to draw firm conclusions on. I'm hesitant in blazing a trail where I don't have confidence in where it would lead and need to proceed cautiously.

[Rich_NYS]

I've not removed this bolt and I may not have a clear picture of what your up against. I'm assuming this bolt holds the fiberglass body to the shock tower. You need access to install a thread inseart. From what I gather, there's a aluminum washer bonded to the fiberglass to spread out the load.

Since you only need to install a thread insert, why do you need to pry this aluminum off? How about drilling the hole slightly bigger? If need be use a hole saw and go a bit bigger. Once your done, you can just use a bigger washer to hold the body down.

As far as thread inserts go, you might look into "riv-nuts".

This reminds me of something; there's a metal plate between the underbody and frame at the top of the shock tower, heads up if you get that cup thing out and start drilling for a timesert. I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect. (You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well.) You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.

*edit: Here's a pic from my last car before restoration, it looks possible to work through that opening to tighten or replace the nut.

66811

[iflights]

I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect.

You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well. You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.

YES! A pic would be awesome. Thank you.

I can see into that caged area, and I see a rusted nut and bolt spinning. Wedging a screwdriver in there through the slots will be how I will attack it...probably will need to saturate with PB blaster or some freeze spray.

I believe this is a PO repair because the bolt they used seems to be bottoming out into the cage.

[Drive Stainless]

This reminds me of something; there's a metal plate between the underbody and frame at the top of the shock tower, heads up if you get that cup thing out and start drilling for a timesert. I'll get a pic from below so you can see what to expect. (You can see the metal plate and the area where the nut is by looking into the wheel well.) You might be able to reach that nut with a long screwdriver & hold it while tightening the body bolt.

*edit: Here's a pic from my last car before restoration, it looks possible to work through that opening to tighten or replace the nut.

66811

Good call, Rich.

[iflights]

Had an hour this morning. I was able to remove the bolt and the rusted nut using the screwdriver as a wedge on the nut technique.

It is was not a factory bolt, it was longer. My guess it was longer to make it easier to get the nut on it because the nut could be positioned waiting for the bolt to essentially drop into it. A couple of turns on the bolt with a screwdriver wedge on the nut, and you've got a repair completed.

Now the experiment begins.

[Rich_NYS]

Good call, Rich.

Thanks man!




YES! A pic would be awesome. Thank you.


Here's a couple pics I took yesterday. I'm not entirely sure of what I'm seeing, aside from the plate.

Also, I experimented with a grabber tool. It fit into the "cage" at the top of the shock tower, I think that would be helpful if dealing with a loose nut (unless it's behind the wheel....like in my car.)

Seeing the corrosion on this plate really highlights the differences between the southern car I had, and this New England car. I think it was briefly driven on road salt, or regularly in the rain. Thankfully the frame is in great shape so there's only a few random areas of corrosion on replaceable parts. Now I have another thing to address before reassembly...thanks a lot! -lol


66812

66813

[iflights]

Thanks Rich. Those pics were very helpful and helped validate the assumptions.

Didn't have to remove the aluminum cup, just had to make the existing hole a little larger. Was able to use a tap to cut new threads in the shock tower steel and that metal plate shown in your photo.

Dropped the Helicoil into position and tightened it up until the threads were at the bottom of the shock tower steel.

Dropped the new fastener into the Helicoil and tightened it up to the recommended torque.

Project now complete.

Appreciate the assistance of this community in working through this challenge.