Steering wheel won't come off

[aludden]

I am trying to pull out the steering wheel, with no luck. I removed the center nut, got a puller and some long M6 bolts, but it just won't budge.

Any tips?

Thanks!
Alex

[Spittybug]

Before he retired from DMCH, Warren told me a good trick. Using your air compressor (you DO have one, right?) and the air chisel tool, hold it against the steering column and give it a quick burst while pulling the wheel upwards. The vibration will loosen the wheel. It works great. Barring this, your best bet it to use a hammer to replicate. Don't hit the column directly as you could damage the threads. Instead, put a block of wood or metal plate on the end of the column and bang away.

[Delorean Industries]

Put the nut back on so that it is just above the threads. Tap it a few times with a air hammer with flat bit attached with your arm wrapped from your elbow to palm across the back of the wheel apply pressure towards the seat. It will come right off.

Don't try using a puller. That method will screw things up.

[aludden]

Unfortunately, my compressor got stolen. I tried tapping with a block of wood and hammer onto the center with the nut back in, and no success so far.

When I was using the puller, I did tap - a lot - the center bolt when the puller was pulling, but that didn't free it up. It's been jammed in there for 30 years!

I will have someone help me on Tuesday so one can tap and the other pull.

Besides the center nut, there's nothing else holding it in, right?

[Jonathan]

Besides the center nut, there's nothing else holding it in, right?

Correct. Just the big nut and friction.

[Kenny_Z]

Correct. Just the big nut and friction.

And possibly rust. I had an 89 Astro do the same thing to me. You may try some penetrating oil on it. If there was moisture in the car it could have condensed on the column and worked its way into the splines. If anything it'll give it a bit of lubrication.

[Nicholas R]

Don't try using a puller. That method will screw things up.

Whats wrong with using a puller? I always use a puller. I've never run into any issues with it sticking though. Biggest thing for me is always remembering that the tapped holes in the steering wheel are actually SAE NOT Metric.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Whats wrong with using a puller? I always use a puller. I've never run into any issues with it sticking though. Biggest thing for me is always remembering that the tapped holes in the steering wheel are actually SAE NOT Metric.

OEM, the holes are 6 mm. I was able to get mine off with a puller and 6 mm long bolts. But others, I have needed to tap the holes to a larger size (think it was 5/16") to get the wheel off with a puller.

[aludden]

Well, there's definitely corrosion there. I can see it between the teeth. I've put some PB Blaster on it, will let it soak and see if that helps. It looks like a repeat of my engine bolts that broke... :-(

[Delorean Industries]

Whats wrong with using a puller? I always use a puller. I've never run into any issues with it sticking though. Biggest thing for me is always remembering that the tapped holes in the steering wheel are actually SAE NOT Metric.

Because if it is really on there you are going to crack the wheel before it gives. Best route is carefully using an air hammer. This is how everyone in the business does it. Since I learned this method from them anyways.

[David T]

I always use a puller. You must make sure you use the right screws and they are deeply threaded into the wheel. For the "stubborn" ones I tighten up the puller and strike the puller screw (the big one) really hard and fast with a BIG hammer. One hit is all it takes.
The wheel is on by the nut and the tapered, splined shaft. You should mark the spot so you can put it back on correctly with a centerpunch. It is not corrosion holding it, it is the friction from a very tight fit. Just like the tie rod ends and ball joints.
David Teitelbaum

[aludden]

Of course my third option is to get my sawsall and cut the heck out of it ... just kidding!!! :mallet:

[aludden]

Of course my third option is to get my sawsall and cut the heck out of it ... just kidding!!! :mallet:

Ooooh! Nobody liked that comment!

Anyway, I tried the hammering with a helper but it still didn't come out. Then I tried the puller and the 6mm threads stripped out.

I guess I will have to take it someplace that has a compressor and an air hammer... but right now my interior is taken apart so it will have to wait.

[Mike C.]

I always use a puller. You must make sure you use the right screws and they are deeply threaded into the wheel. For the "stubborn" ones I tighten up the puller and strike the puller screw (the big one) really hard and fast with a BIG hammer. One hit is all it takes.
The wheel is on by the nut and the tapered, splined shaft. You should mark the spot so you can put it back on correctly with a centerpunch. It is not corrosion holding it, it is the friction from a very tight fit. Just like the tie rod ends and ball joints.
David Teitelbaum

X2. Was always taught that if they make a tool for it, there's a reason why...

[David T]

Heli-Coil it or retap to 1/4-28 and try again. Make sure you have threaded the puller screws at least an inch into the wheel. Tighten up and strike with a hammer.
David Teitelbaum

[aludden]

Heli-Coil it or retap to 1/4-28 and try again. Make sure you have threaded the puller screws at least an inch into the wheel. Tighten up and strike with a hammer.
David Teitelbaum

Well, now I know why the M6 stripped - it looks like the PO had already tapped it to 1/4-28. I just tried to tap it and the tap went right in with no effort. I guess I may need to go a size larger...

[David T]

If you do retap and/or enlarge the holes try to use a fine thread, it is much stronger in a casting than course threads.
David Teitelbaum

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you strip the 6 mm threads, you need to go larger to a 5/16 tap. You will need to drill a little to use that tap. A 1/4-20 is almost the same size as 6 mm.

[aludden]

Yeah! It's off!!!
I wound up tapping to 5/16 and then it went quite easy! I guess all my pulling, tugging and hammering got it to where it was *almost* out. The spindly 6mm bolts did not give a firm enough hold, whereas 5/16 did.

Thank you all for your help! If I had a compressor and air hammer I would have tried that, but I don't.

Thanks!
Alex

[coreydmc]

i tried loosening the main nut and using a air chisel and nothing. should i get a steering wheel puller? also if i use a puller that screws do i need for the steering wheel 6mm?

[Bitsyncmaster]

i tried loosening the main nut and using a air chisel and nothing. should i get a steering wheel puller? also if i use a puller that screws do i need for the steering wheel 6mm?

The original holes are tapped for a 6mm puller. Make sure you use all the thread in the wheel. I've done one that had to be tapped to a 5/16" inch bolt because the 6mm threads did not hold.

[coreydmc]

should i heat it up with a torch?

[jawn101]

should i heat it up with a torch?

I don't know if that's a good idea. This is an interior component, not an exhaust manifold. Get a nice safe puller first before you start setting fire to your interior.

[DMC5180]

should i heat it up with a torch?

absolutely NOT

[jawn101]

absolutely NOT

Yeah, what he said.

[Nicholas R]

should i heat it up with a torch?

Only if you want to set your interior on fire...

[coreydmc]

10 4. thanks guys!

[David T]

You should not need nor should you even consider using, heat. There are a lot of heat sensitive parts in the steering column.
David Teitelbaum

[jamesrguk]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.grant793/NEW_OLD_BITS_2007/Wheel_Tool.jpg

A simple but very effective tool, I've done loads of wheels with this puller.

I tighten it onto the steering wheel and then a sharp tap on the large central bolt is enough to shift even the toughest wheel, I don't have an air compressor so can't vouch for that technique.

[Henrik]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.grant793/NEW_OLD_BITS_2007/Wheel_Tool.jpg

A simple but very effective tool, I've done loads of wheels with this puller.

I tighten it onto the steering wheel and then a sharp tap on the large central bolt is enough to shift even the toughest wheel, I don't have an air compressor so can't vouch for that technique.

I was planning to make a puller just like this, but if anyone in the US has already made one - would you be able to ship it to me? If so, PM me. I'll pay freight both ways of course.

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

Just rent one from Autozone or Advance (you buy the tool, then get your money back when you return it, so net rental cost is zero). Kit won't come with bolts long enough for a DeLorean steering wheel -- you'll need to provide your own. Autozone calls their puller a "Harmonic Balancer Puller" (works fine on steering wheels too).

[Henrik]

Just rent one from Autozone or Advance (you buy the tool, then get your money back when you return it, so net rental cost is zero). Kit won't come with bolts long enough for a DeLorean steering wheel -- you'll need to provide your own. Autozone calls their puller a "Harmonic Balancer Puller" (works fine on steering wheels too).

Thanks - before I posted I had just been at O'Reilly Auto Parts. The have loaner tools but the steering puller kit they carry will not work on a D, that's why I figured I'd check with the D community, but I will try Autozone and Advance as well.

[Nicholas R]

Though either will work, a harmonic balancer pulled is not the same as a steering wheel puller. Same idea but just a different layout. The autozones near me have both harmonic balancer pullers and steering wheel pullers. Harbor freight also has them.

What about the kits near you makes them unusable on the DeLorean? I've never had any trouble before. I've never found anything exotic about our steering wheel. Just curious.

Also, because of the smaller bolts, I recommend anyone with an aftermarket steering wheel and the adapter only use a harmonic balancer puller to remove it. That way you're distributing the load over 3 bolts instead of 2. This is what I do.

[ssr60]

Thanks - before I posted I had just been at O'Reilly Auto Parts. The have loaner tools but the steering puller kit they carry will not work on a D, that's why I figured I'd check with the D community, but I will try Autozone and Advance as well.

I used the one from O'Reilly's last week. I had to get longer bolts but it worked.

[Henrik]

I used the one from O'Reilly's last week. I had to get longer bolts but it worked.

Yes, technically the O'Reilly would work but it requires 3" long bolts. And, yes, the kit came with a lot of different bolt sizes of which M6 was not one of them. The chances of finding two M6 x 75mm are pretty slim in my area so I will make a puller.

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

Just buy a stick of M6 threaded rod (Autozone sells it) and cut two pieces to length.

[DMC5180]

Just buy a stick of M6 threaded rod (Autozone sells it) and cut two pieces to length.

This is an excellent alternative. You will need M6x 1.00 nuts and a couple large area fender washers M6 or 1/4 inch to go with the rods. Be sure to engage the threaded wholes in the Wheel a Minimum of .5 inches. More is better though.

[Henrik]

This is an excellent alternative. You will need M6x 1.00 nuts and a couple large area fender washers M6 or 1/4 inch to go with the rods. Be sure to engage the threaded wholes in the Wheel a Minimum of .5 inches. More is better though.

Yeah, that's a good idea. Thanks y'all!

[Kenny_Z]

I'm going through this right now. That wheel doesn't want to come loose. I've got a harmonic puller, 6mm bolts, a generous amount of penetrate spray, and a ball pein hammer. Should I be worried about how hard I hit this thing? Right now I've only been giving it firm taps. I don't want to break something by hitting it too hard. I've put enough tension on the puller that my last of many strikes actually caused one of the 6mm bolts to pull the threads out of the wheel. I'm going to have to redrill and tap them. Tomorrow after work I might try the air hammer suggestion if I can find a small enough scrap block of steel to put between the nut and a chisel bit. I don't have a flat faced bit. Maybe a broken socket will work.

I've taken off 40 year old steering wheels that were less of a pain in the ass than this one.

[Nicholas R]

I'm going through this right now. That wheel doesn't want to come loose. I've got a harmonic puller, 6mm bolts, a generous amount of penetrate spray, and a ball pein hammer. Should I be worried about how hard I hit this thing? Right now I've only been giving it firm taps. I don't want to break something by hitting it too hard. I've put enough tension on the puller that my last of many strikes actually caused one of the 6mm bolts to pull the threads out of the wheel. I'm going to have to redrill and tap them. Tomorrow after work I might try the air hammer suggestion if I can find a small enough scrap block of steel to put between the nut and a chisel bit. I don't have a flat faced bit. Maybe a broken socket will work.

I've taken off 40 year old steering wheels that were less of a pain in the ass than this one.

You said you were using a harmonic balancer puller right? As shown here:
http://www.dpciwholesale.com/images/P/p-2930.jpg
http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/00112560.jpg

Where/what are you hitting with a hammer? Are you hitting the wrench with the hammer or the column or the main screw or what?

Damn, if you're stripping out the M6 holes, it seems like something is not right. I guess it could just be too tight. Unfortunately That aluminum in the center of the wheel is pretty soft :(

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have found a car where the M6 bolt has stripped. I had to tap to next size. Think it was 5/16 thread. My puller does use all the tread of the M6 hole also.

[Kenny_Z]

Yep, that's the puller. I'm hitting the main screw. I even removed the plastic cover behind the wheel and put a pry bar against the back of the wheel and hit that (careful not to hit anything else). I thought maybe a shock from the back would help free it. It hasn't budged.

The m6 screws I bought were a little too short so I welded a 3 inch 5/16th screw head to head and then put that part through the puller. I was able to use about an inch or so of the m6's thread into the wheel. Unfortunately it still pulled the threads out.

[DMC5180]

I think I used M6 x 1.00 x 100 bolts. I made sure that screwed them in as far as possible (3/4 inch min). No issues getting it to release. Fwiw: a lug nut impact wrench works great if you have something like available to us on the puller.

[DeLorean]

In many cars, you can simply un bolt the wheel and pull, and you'll have the wheel. Not so with the Delo... I did the air hammer trick just yesterday, and yep - popped it right off, no problem. I'd recommend you lube the splines before reassembly. Also, Air hammers are about $30 at harbor freight, and their cheapo ones work just fine for this job.

[Kenny_Z]

Thanks everyone. The air hammer worked like a charm. Even my crappy little Coleman that is several years old. Not even half a second of hammering and the wheel popped off.

[eagle-co94]

Using the $20 loaner pulling tool from Autozone and 120mm bolts (the only option I could find) it was a breeze.

[Ryan King]

I can't get mine off. I had it off before, it came off easy. Now. I won't budge. I tried a puller, I tore the threads out. I tried a pulley puller and that didn't work. So I guess I need to try the air hammer. I don't know how that works though. Can someone shed some light or photos on the process?

[Spittybug]

I can't get mine off. I had it off before, it came off easy. Now. I won't budge. I tried a puller, I tore the threads out. I tried a pulley puller and that didn't work. So I guess I need to try the air hammer. I don't know how that works though. Can someone shed some light or photos on the process?

Piece of cake.... cheap air chisel with the pointy tip works best. Merely put the tip in the little dimple in the end of the steering column. Hold the wheel with one hand, pulling towards you. Trigger the gun and vibrate the hell out of the column. It will come right off. Warren taught me that trick before he retired from DMCH. If you don't have an air chisel, try just rapidly tapping with a small hammer. It's the vibrations you're looking for, not pounding.

[eagle-co94]

I'd also recommend a nice dose of penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench first. Then a few taps with a hammer may be all you need.

[dmc6960]

I've tried a hammer to no avail. Air chisel all the way.